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Paris...Looking for reassurance about staying at this FABULOUS apartment in the 17th arr.

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Paris...Looking for reassurance about staying at this FABULOUS apartment in the 17th arr.

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Old May 24th, 2008, 01:22 PM
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Paris...Looking for reassurance about staying at this FABULOUS apartment in the 17th arr.

Pinch me! I feel like the luckiest girl in the world!

I decided this week that it's time to return to Paris this summer, and was fortunate enough to find a business class seat using frequent flyer miles.

This will be my 6th trip (2nd solo trip) to the city of light. I have previously stayed in the 1st, 6th and 7th, and have seen most of the typical tourist sights.

This time, I want an apartment, and I want to stay somewhere new. I want to cook french food for myself and pretend to be Parisian, if only for a week!

I found this AMAZING apartment (here on Fodor's) in the southeast part of the 17th arr., in an area I am unfamiliar with, known as Bagnitolles. The website is www.RentalApartmentParis.com

As I understand it, the 17th arr. is an untouristy, fairly upscale residential neighborhood, with plenty of shops and cafes.

My concerns are how FAR it appears to be from the city center. I know you can get anywhere in Paris by metro, and there are 4 stops, on 2 lines, each within 5 blocks of the apartment. Also, my french stinks, and although I intend to brush up between now and the time I go, I'm concerned about the ability to communicate in a non-touristy area. But I have fallen in love with the apartment...

Any words of wisdom, or encouragement (or discouragemet), about this neighborhood? Thanks.
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Old May 24th, 2008, 01:28 PM
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Also, can you comment on issues of safety, and whether I could expect prices in this neighborhood (groceries, cafes, etc.) to be less than in the city center? Thanks.
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Old May 24th, 2008, 01:34 PM
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In my opinion, Batignolles is too far, you're right. I'm sure locals don't find it too far, but for a visitor there are so many other apartment choices in central locations like the Ile St. Louis and the St. Germain and Latin Quarter.

I highly recommend Paris Address. They were great to deal with and offer many apartments in all districts for reasonable rates and rental terms.

www.parisaddress.com

You may want to look into Guest Apartment Services. They offer Ile St. Louis apartments.

www.guestapartment.com
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Old May 24th, 2008, 01:37 PM
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Thanks, francofile. Wow...I really butchered the name, didn't I?
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Old May 24th, 2008, 01:55 PM
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bookmarking, thanks francophile03 for the links.
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Old May 24th, 2008, 02:19 PM
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I WOULD NOT EVER WORRY about staying in Bagnitolles.. I frequent a forum and a lot of the people there have apts, there and love the familiarity of a neighborhood metro and bus system is so great wherever you stay is convenient.
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Old May 24th, 2008, 02:22 PM
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Hmmm, this apartment looks very familiar to me. I think someone has posted about it before. Try do a little research here. Looks absolutely lovely. I would stay there.
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Old May 24th, 2008, 02:37 PM
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Yup, here is one:

http://www.fodors.com/forums/threads...p;tid=34969259

and LuckyLuc's trip report:

http://www.fodors.com/forums/threads...p;tid=34728383
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Old May 24th, 2008, 02:49 PM
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I like the Batignolles area, and wouldn't worry about that part of it -- at least where I think that apt. is, although I know the area around Brochant a little better. The 17th is a huge area, and I certainly wouldn't call all of it upscale (some definitely not, and parts can be dicey). Parts of it are touristy because there are a lot of cheaper tourist hotels in some parts -- the bottom. But that isn't the part where the apt. is so it's an okay area as far as I know.

It depends what you want -- if you want to do something different and be in a different area, this would suit the bill, why not. You are not going to meet as many people in shops who will know French as well, I imagine, as in more central areas with many more tourists. You don't usually really have to know it that much, but it depends what you are going to do. I mean when shopping, you don't really have to know it that well (you can just put things in your basket, or point to things in a small shop) unless you do want to ask questions or have problems.

I think it depends where you expect to be going and what you'll be doing as to how much the travel time will bother you. If you plan to do a lot on the Left Bank, it will take your time up. Sometimes those metro rides, with the waits, transfers, etc., can eat up a lot of time more than you think.

Personally, I wouldn't book it because I don't even like it that well, I think the living room is kinda ugly, and the rest just average, but to each his own. You think it's amazing, I've just seen so many Parisian apts just as good, so it doesn't impress me. And I don't like the living room at all. The rate is no great bargain, but I guess not bad now that the USD is so low ($170 a day).
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Old May 24th, 2008, 02:57 PM
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Ronda, it's always good when a friend rents your apartment...
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Old May 24th, 2008, 02:58 PM
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Iregeo - We stayed in the Montmartre area last time around after years of sticking close to the Seine. We loved it. I had the same fears you are having.

Walking around the part of Montmartre we were in, we saw mainly families, working Parisians. The cafes seldom had a tourist and we felt (for a week) part of the community. Think of the fun - discovering restos and cafes that aren't reviewed here, the cafe owner who knows your breakfast order by the third day, the half hour conversation with the guy at the fish market, the lady at the Fromagerie who <b>makes</b> you try six or seven cheeses, the next door neighbor who nods and smiles each morning as you cross paths. It never happened in the 5th or the Marais.

I can honestly say that by Metro nothing seemed any more distant. We made it our quest to discover <b>our</b> arrondissement. One day we walked down to the Seine (about an hour and a half one way with all the stops we do).

Maybe my blog will help?
http://tinyurl.com/2ke4k2

BTW - we are currently booking the same apartment as you (Batignolles) for December. I hope you will persist and give us some amazing feedback and recommendations!

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Old May 24th, 2008, 03:14 PM
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oh robjame, that's exactly what I want to hear, and I will definately check out your blog. I do feel like being more adventurous and branching out.

I was considering the 11th, but am very unfamiliar with that area and am under the impression that it's a bit more &quot;gritty.&quot; Since I will be solo, I will pass on it for this trip.

I am also looking at an apartment called &quot;Sacre Coeur One Bedroom With Terrace,&quot; through Paris Vacation Apartments.

Any comments? Where did you stay in Montmarte?
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Old May 24th, 2008, 03:39 PM
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francofile, thanks for the referrals. I have checked with both. The latter is a bit too expensive for this trip. I don't recall the results of my search with the former, but will check again.

Ronda, thanks for the links. That's where I learned of the apartment in the first place!

Christina, I am particularly smitten with the balcony! I can see myself enjoying cafe, and lots of wine out there!
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Old May 24th, 2008, 03:52 PM
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Iregeo - If you go to my blog, at the bottom you have the option to page previous or following. One page previous describes the apartment in Montmartre. The page I sent you to above is &quot;our&quot; street waking up.
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Old May 24th, 2008, 04:28 PM
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Iregeo,

The two threads recommended by Ronda are excellent, particularily with respect to the apartment that you love. I like it very much and had noted it on previous searches, but it is a touch too expensive for my budget (one person). I have spent some time in Paris and certainly do NOT consider this area to be 'too far out'! The metro system is excellent...and, if this is your 6th trip, you understand this well.

You will LOVE to have an apartment and cook, go to the markets etc...I always rent an apartment and would never again rent a hotel room. (unless there for only 3 or 4 days) I did not cook that much, perhaps 1 of each 4 days, but I enjoyed breakfast 'at home' and very much wine and cheese and fruit in the evening. It truly gave me reason to go to the glorious food markets. I also loved having a living room to relax in at the end of the day...a place to bring the beautiful fresh flowers from the market.

The apartment that you love is owned by 'Truffaut', who is the founder of this site: http://www.ourparisblog.com This site is a small and excellent Parisien site. When you access it, look to the upper right and click on &quot;Ask your questions About Parisien Life and Travel'....this reveals a small but wonderful forum.

As you meander through, you will find many interesting thoughts re: Paris. Especially look for the posts by Truffaut, LuckyLuc and Gitte....Gitte is a very knowledgeble visitor to Paris and I found the Forum section &quot;Paris Insider Secrets&quot; to be valuable....Truffaut and Luc are, of course, very aware.

Do not worry about your pathetic French. BUT,I would buy a CD or rent from the library and have a modest number of phrases....it IS WORTH the effort and it will be very appreciated by the Parisiens. This modest effort will reward you in many ways...since you are in a less 'touristy' neighborhood, you will enjoy a richness and texture not offered to you in the highly touristed areas (ie: 6th, 7th, parts of 5th)....believe me, they will love you at the markets, however sad your pronounciation is...it gained me many, many 'deals' and special conversations.

Safety? No problem at all. Exercise normal caution.

Prices in the neighborhood? Cheaper than in the heavy tourist centre (Arr. 1-8)...by far.

These thoughts are based on my limited knowledge...I rented an apartment for 2 weeks (5th arr.), one month (11th arr.), one month (5th arr.)....and a few shorter trips.



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Old May 25th, 2008, 02:06 AM
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If you want to compare a couple others in the Batignolles area..and others..take a looke at this site. mThe Garden Mariotte (1 B/R) and the Mariotte (2 B/R) are both in the Batignolles area.

http://www.homerentalconnections.com/

Michele is very good and all her places are very nice.

Enjoy looking....



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Old May 25th, 2008, 10:27 AM
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Iregeo,

I think it looks lovely. It sure has gotten good reviews. I think this would be a really nice way to spend time in Paris, particularly since you've been there before. You've already done all the stuff in the center, and can surely do it again if you like, but how fun will it be to explore a new neighborhood and feel like a local?

I'm looking forward to your report.
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Old May 25th, 2008, 10:39 AM
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Thanks for your encouragement. I'm going to do it! So excited, I can hardly breathe!
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Old May 25th, 2008, 10:44 AM
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Iregeo,

The Batignolles area is absolutely fine, particularly for someone that has made multiple visits and doesn't feel the need to be in the shadow of Notre Dame. You mentioned shopping and cooking and the apt. is a very easy walk to the Batignolles Sat. &quot;Bio&quot; market which has the same merchants at a lower price as the one on Raspail the next day.

Coincidentally, my wife and I happened to visit this particular apt. last week and I can assure you it is not ugly, there are some lovely pieces of furniture which I would not leave there if it was mine. As far as safety is concerned it is in the same block as the police dept.
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Old May 25th, 2008, 10:52 AM
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Laidback, I think the apartment looks charming, and I'm so in love with that balcony! Thanks also for the info regarding safety. Traveling alone, it is of course a concern.
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