Paris Itinerary: Avez-vous des commentaires?
Mar 29th, 2010, 08:26 PM
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Paris Itinerary: Avez-vous des commentaires?
This loose itinerary for a week in Paris covers approximately the second week in June 2011.
Tuesday: Arrive, check-in and do the Bus #69 Tour for an overview/introduction. Get off at the Bastille and see the Hotel Sully on the way to the Musee Carnavalet. Check out the neighborhood around St. Paul (the village, Hôtel de Sens, the rampart of Philippe Auguste); picnic at the Place des Vosges.
Wednesday: Notre-Dame; stroll through Ile St-Louise and picnic on the quai; and a little peek at the Left Bank (Square Viviani, St-Julien-le-Pauvre, Shakespeare & Co., St. Severine & Boul Mich). Then back to Ile de la Cite to visit Saint-Chapelle, La Conciergerie, Place Dauphine (a pot of vin at le Bar du Caveau) and Square du Vert Galante. Evening options: Boat ride on the Vedettes du Pont Neuf or a stroll through the Ancien Cloître Quartier and then along the island quais, crossing over to Jardin de Tino Rossi to watch the tango dancers.
Thursday: Musée du Louvre; afternoon stroll through Tuilerie Gardens to place de la Concorde & possibly all the way to Rond-Point. Depending on energy, time and the weather, possibly a walk down rue St-Honoré, picking up items for a picnic at Jardin du Palais Royal. Other meal/snack options I'm exploring include Lescure, Au Petit Bar, Bistrot les Victoires, Lémoni Café, chocolat à l’Africaine at Angelina - the latter even if we have a picnic dinner at the Palais.
Friday: Musée d’Orsay, Rodin Museum, Les Invalides (only for a "quick" look at Napoleon’s Tomb), Rue Cler and gather picnic items to enjoy at the Champs de Mars before visiting the Eiffel Tower.
Saturday:Versailles
Sunday: Montmartre in the morning with an early start (7:30 a.m.) to beat the crowds at Sacré-Cœur, possibly followed by the Orangerie if time allows toward midday. Then, Musée Jacquemart-André and tea then relax at Parc Monceau in the afternoon before strolling up to see the Dumas statues in Place de General Catroux and have dinner at Le Café Dumas. Conclude with a view at dusk from the Arc de Triomphe.
Monday: Long, leisurely Left Bank strolling for our last day. Besides café hopping (la Palette, le Procope, la Marie, Deux Magots, etc. - not all of them of course) and patisserie sampling (Pierre Marcolini, Gerard Mulo, Jean-Paul Hevint, etc.), the walk will include visits to the Cluny, the Panthéon, Saint-Etienne, Luxembourg Gardens, St-Sulpice and Saint-Germain-des-Prés. It sounds like a lot, but I plan to do it in a relaxing manner from morning into evening. SInce it's Monday, the markets will be closed, but I still think this could work into a lovely day.
After this week in Paris, we will spend time in Burgundy, Provence and the Dordogne.
Thanks for your thoughts!
Tuesday: Arrive, check-in and do the Bus #69 Tour for an overview/introduction. Get off at the Bastille and see the Hotel Sully on the way to the Musee Carnavalet. Check out the neighborhood around St. Paul (the village, Hôtel de Sens, the rampart of Philippe Auguste); picnic at the Place des Vosges.
Wednesday: Notre-Dame; stroll through Ile St-Louise and picnic on the quai; and a little peek at the Left Bank (Square Viviani, St-Julien-le-Pauvre, Shakespeare & Co., St. Severine & Boul Mich). Then back to Ile de la Cite to visit Saint-Chapelle, La Conciergerie, Place Dauphine (a pot of vin at le Bar du Caveau) and Square du Vert Galante. Evening options: Boat ride on the Vedettes du Pont Neuf or a stroll through the Ancien Cloître Quartier and then along the island quais, crossing over to Jardin de Tino Rossi to watch the tango dancers.
Thursday: Musée du Louvre; afternoon stroll through Tuilerie Gardens to place de la Concorde & possibly all the way to Rond-Point. Depending on energy, time and the weather, possibly a walk down rue St-Honoré, picking up items for a picnic at Jardin du Palais Royal. Other meal/snack options I'm exploring include Lescure, Au Petit Bar, Bistrot les Victoires, Lémoni Café, chocolat à l’Africaine at Angelina - the latter even if we have a picnic dinner at the Palais.
Friday: Musée d’Orsay, Rodin Museum, Les Invalides (only for a "quick" look at Napoleon’s Tomb), Rue Cler and gather picnic items to enjoy at the Champs de Mars before visiting the Eiffel Tower.
Saturday:Versailles
Sunday: Montmartre in the morning with an early start (7:30 a.m.) to beat the crowds at Sacré-Cœur, possibly followed by the Orangerie if time allows toward midday. Then, Musée Jacquemart-André and tea then relax at Parc Monceau in the afternoon before strolling up to see the Dumas statues in Place de General Catroux and have dinner at Le Café Dumas. Conclude with a view at dusk from the Arc de Triomphe.
Monday: Long, leisurely Left Bank strolling for our last day. Besides café hopping (la Palette, le Procope, la Marie, Deux Magots, etc. - not all of them of course) and patisserie sampling (Pierre Marcolini, Gerard Mulo, Jean-Paul Hevint, etc.), the walk will include visits to the Cluny, the Panthéon, Saint-Etienne, Luxembourg Gardens, St-Sulpice and Saint-Germain-des-Prés. It sounds like a lot, but I plan to do it in a relaxing manner from morning into evening. SInce it's Monday, the markets will be closed, but I still think this could work into a lovely day.
After this week in Paris, we will spend time in Burgundy, Provence and the Dordogne.
Thanks for your thoughts!
Mar 30th, 2010, 12:05 AM
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I have seen information that indicates the shops at the Village St. Paul are closed Tuesday and Wednesday, so you might want to check that out and if true, you might want to shift that to a different day.
Mar 30th, 2010, 10:44 AM
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I know that you said in another thread that you will be cutting some of the activities and I think that you may want to do that here. You must be young. I couldn't do all that stuff in a day--wish I could, though!
Make sure you leave space for the possibility that you are having such a good time at one of your destinations that you don't want to leave. That's the joy of traveling. Being spontaneous and seeing where the traveling spirit takes you. At least it is for me. And try not to be too disappointed if you can't fit it all in. This reminds me of one year following Maribel's itinerary for Pais Vasco--it nearly killed me but it was all so wonderful I didn't want to miss a single sight or taste.
A morning at Musée du Louvre would be it for me--although I will keep going and then collapse---I'm trying to not travel like that anymore. I get very into the museums (art history major) and it can be exhilarating but tiring. Sometimes just trying to get around all the people can be a challenge.
But everything you have "planned" is wonderful. I envy your ability to plan where to eat your favorite things. I wish I could do that in advance. But there I am, tired, hungry, and I just want some food and to sit down, period! I try to avoid the tourist eateries but that's not always possible. It's kind of a trade-off. I feel enriched by the sights and sounds, but my stomach sometimes suffers!
Make sure you leave space for the possibility that you are having such a good time at one of your destinations that you don't want to leave. That's the joy of traveling. Being spontaneous and seeing where the traveling spirit takes you. At least it is for me. And try not to be too disappointed if you can't fit it all in. This reminds me of one year following Maribel's itinerary for Pais Vasco--it nearly killed me but it was all so wonderful I didn't want to miss a single sight or taste.
A morning at Musée du Louvre would be it for me--although I will keep going and then collapse---I'm trying to not travel like that anymore. I get very into the museums (art history major) and it can be exhilarating but tiring. Sometimes just trying to get around all the people can be a challenge.
But everything you have "planned" is wonderful. I envy your ability to plan where to eat your favorite things. I wish I could do that in advance. But there I am, tired, hungry, and I just want some food and to sit down, period! I try to avoid the tourist eateries but that's not always possible. It's kind of a trade-off. I feel enriched by the sights and sounds, but my stomach sometimes suffers!
Mar 30th, 2010, 10:51 AM
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Look at you! Good detail in this plan. This is one of the better swags I've seen 
Wonder if saving Eiffel tower for later in day would mean longer line-ups.
Sacre Coeur, could see there being crowds on weekend at Place du Tertre, but as for the steps in front of the Cathedral..not so sure.
St Germain...nice day. Might have a look at Cluny Museum, add in Buci area and rue Ancienne Comedie.
Wonder if saving Eiffel tower for later in day would mean longer line-ups.
Sacre Coeur, could see there being crowds on weekend at Place du Tertre, but as for the steps in front of the Cathedral..not so sure.
St Germain...nice day. Might have a look at Cluny Museum, add in Buci area and rue Ancienne Comedie.
Mar 30th, 2010, 11:00 AM
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Well, I'm not young, but this is exactly the sort of pace I keep up when I'm in Paris. Out the door of the hotel by 9 am at the latest and keep moving until about 11 at night. I think this is a great itinerary.
Mar 30th, 2010, 11:11 AM
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After you will rest a little in Parc Monceau, it will be nice to visit Cernuschi museum (a nice palace with collection of asian art) si Nissim Camondo museum (very rich art collection and a very sad story).
Mar 30th, 2010, 11:53 AM
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Mostly - A very well thought out itinerary - Paris is greater than the sum of its parts - and the many strolls you have planned and the flexibility reflect that you will be able to appreciate that. Agree with above posting that the arene de Lutece is a nice change of pace. (neat Roman Ruins) From Pantheon proceed East on Rue Clovis, then right onto Rue Mouffetard, stroll down that street - which has fun to look at albeit a bit tacky small shops - some decent cheese shops - then go back east to Rue Monge - the entrance to Arene is opposite the north Metro entrance for Place Monge.
Also, my experience was such that a whole day at the Louvre was all I could plan for, and most people who go to Versailles, find that they can do that in 2/3rds of a day, so Versailles followed by the Arc at dusk would make a nice day's plan. On SATURDAY ABSOLUTELY try to ge there before ten, or you'll be in line behind half of Europe.
final note is - be sure to plan your day in St Chapelle on a sunny day - if that means the first day, then go the first day and adjust.
Also, my experience was such that a whole day at the Louvre was all I could plan for, and most people who go to Versailles, find that they can do that in 2/3rds of a day, so Versailles followed by the Arc at dusk would make a nice day's plan. On SATURDAY ABSOLUTELY try to ge there before ten, or you'll be in line behind half of Europe.
final note is - be sure to plan your day in St Chapelle on a sunny day - if that means the first day, then go the first day and adjust.
Mar 30th, 2010, 12:09 PM
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You are obviously a very serious and informed planner and have lots of energy. I won't flame you about attempting too much. But I do feel that your museum visits are way too condensed.
An example:
Friday: Musée d’Orsay, Rodin Museum, Les Invalides (only for a "quick" look at Napoleon’s Tomb), Rue Cler and gather picnic items to enjoy at the Champs de Mars before visiting the Eiffel Tower.
After multiple visits, I still need FOUR hours at least for the Musee d'Orsay ...and then I'm knackered. Sensory congestion.
Sure, I could "do" the Rodin museum afterward ... but it would inhibit my ability to savour the Musee d'O treasures, in the hours after my visit.
And the Rodin museum is 2 hours ...PLUS I want time to sit in their garden, especially if the roses are in bloom, which they likely would be in June.
Yet you have 4 further items/ events that same day...
In Paris, I may indeed be on the go from morn til night -- but not at stuff that engages my brain and my senses to the full, as museum-going does. I never "do" more than one major gallery/museum per day.
An example:
Friday: Musée d’Orsay, Rodin Museum, Les Invalides (only for a "quick" look at Napoleon’s Tomb), Rue Cler and gather picnic items to enjoy at the Champs de Mars before visiting the Eiffel Tower.
After multiple visits, I still need FOUR hours at least for the Musee d'Orsay ...and then I'm knackered. Sensory congestion.
Sure, I could "do" the Rodin museum afterward ... but it would inhibit my ability to savour the Musee d'O treasures, in the hours after my visit.
And the Rodin museum is 2 hours ...PLUS I want time to sit in their garden, especially if the roses are in bloom, which they likely would be in June.
Yet you have 4 further items/ events that same day...
In Paris, I may indeed be on the go from morn til night -- but not at stuff that engages my brain and my senses to the full, as museum-going does. I never "do" more than one major gallery/museum per day.
Mar 30th, 2010, 12:25 PM
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Thanks to everyone for the comments and great tips. Justine, I am not exactly young (early 40s) and my DH certainly is not, but I am a high-energy traveler. My feet will probably end up limiting more than anything and there may be a lot of park and café stops in between to give the dogs a rest. My itineraries inevitably exceed our capacity, but I like to have the options at hand "just in case."
StCirq, I like your idea about brunch at Jacquemart-André, but I was hoping to beat the crowds at Sacré-Cœur by making it my very first stop of the day. I think it may be wise to avoid Place du Tertre entirely, though I do want to sneak 'round the corner from there to see Louis Icart’s last abode after a visit to the Dali museum. (DH is an Icart fan and would probably like to snap a shot of the Art Deco door.)
Michel and Docdan, I had very seriously considered the Arene de Lutece, but wondered if it was a bit too far out of the way between the Pantheon and Luxembourg. Perhaps I'll leave that as an option based on time & energy after the Pantheon.
You all may well be right about the Louvre. It is certainly the main focus on that day. The Tuileries may be a nice evening option to round it up & get some fresh air; but I suspect, too, that we'll be collapsing by that point. We are huge art fans (except for modern) and I had already planned all morning into the early afternoon there. I'm sure we'll leave cross-eyed before we've seen the smallest fraction of what we want to see.
Good tip about St-Chapelle. The nice thing is that it's so centrally located & never far from places we'll be on other days.
StCirq, I like your idea about brunch at Jacquemart-André, but I was hoping to beat the crowds at Sacré-Cœur by making it my very first stop of the day. I think it may be wise to avoid Place du Tertre entirely, though I do want to sneak 'round the corner from there to see Louis Icart’s last abode after a visit to the Dali museum. (DH is an Icart fan and would probably like to snap a shot of the Art Deco door.)
Michel and Docdan, I had very seriously considered the Arene de Lutece, but wondered if it was a bit too far out of the way between the Pantheon and Luxembourg. Perhaps I'll leave that as an option based on time & energy after the Pantheon.
You all may well be right about the Louvre. It is certainly the main focus on that day. The Tuileries may be a nice evening option to round it up & get some fresh air; but I suspect, too, that we'll be collapsing by that point. We are huge art fans (except for modern) and I had already planned all morning into the early afternoon there. I'm sure we'll leave cross-eyed before we've seen the smallest fraction of what we want to see.
Good tip about St-Chapelle. The nice thing is that it's so centrally located & never far from places we'll be on other days.
Mar 30th, 2010, 12:32 PM
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Sorry, tedgale, your post came in while I was typing my last reply. You are likely quite right about doing the Orsay and the Rodin in one day. My husband originally did not want to even visit the Rodin because we have seen so much of his work already, but I thought being in his actual studio & garden would be special. I think perhaps the Orsay and the ET will be the main focus that day, with the Rodin and Napoleon's Tomb as secondary possibilities en route.
The Rue Cler visit was mainly to gather picnic supplies for an outdoor dinner before visiting the tower. If we're beat or the weather doesn't cooperate, though, we'll nab a spot at a brasserie instead.
The Rue Cler visit was mainly to gather picnic supplies for an outdoor dinner before visiting the tower. If we're beat or the weather doesn't cooperate, though, we'll nab a spot at a brasserie instead.
Mar 30th, 2010, 06:17 PM
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sap;
You can plan for me any day. Your husband is lucky. And to me, anyway, early 40's is young. I think what slows me down as well are the dogs--I am hardly old (!). And although I am in great shape, better than most younger than me, there are unfortunately some vascular issues that create some problems lately from years of standing all day, and I was a dancer as well. I refuse to wear support hose! Please! But I am out there all day and night anyway with a little more sitting for moments here and there than I used to. It's hard to rest though when you just want to keep going and see and do everything and love it all.
Enjoy your trip---I know you will with that great itinerary.
You can plan for me any day. Your husband is lucky. And to me, anyway, early 40's is young. I think what slows me down as well are the dogs--I am hardly old (!). And although I am in great shape, better than most younger than me, there are unfortunately some vascular issues that create some problems lately from years of standing all day, and I was a dancer as well. I refuse to wear support hose! Please! But I am out there all day and night anyway with a little more sitting for moments here and there than I used to. It's hard to rest though when you just want to keep going and see and do everything and love it all.
Enjoy your trip---I know you will with that great itinerary.
Mar 30th, 2010, 07:03 PM
#16
I love this itinerary and would let you make one for me any day of the week. When I'm in Paris, though, I always spend about twice as much time doing any given thing than I originally planned. Not the traveling/walking/metro-ing, but the <i>seeing and being</i> (okay, and sometimes the wining and dining). I spend hours like they're going put of style. But as long as you're happy, I'd say this is a good plan to follow...and then deviate from if necessary.
Enjoy!
Enjoy!
Mar 31st, 2010, 12:26 PM
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<Wonder if saving Eiffel tower for later in day would mean longer line-ups.>
Michel_Paris, would you thus recommend I start that Friday with the Eiffel Tower rather than end with it? I had wanted to catch the "fizzing lights" and see the view at dusk, but not if it means I'm elbow-to-elbow with every other tourist in the city to do it.
Michel_Paris, would you thus recommend I start that Friday with the Eiffel Tower rather than end with it? I had wanted to catch the "fizzing lights" and see the view at dusk, but not if it means I'm elbow-to-elbow with every other tourist in the city to do it.
Mar 31st, 2010, 06:07 PM
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Agree completely that Friday is too packed. D'Orsay, Rodin and Eiffel are doable but there's no need to visit Rue Cler for picnic fixins, there are plenty of places to find them.
Rodin is very pleasant and informative, especially if the weather allows you to spend time in the gardens.
Not sure on when to go to the Tower; likely that there will be long lines at any time of day in June. The night view from the Arc is wonderful and you get a good look at the Tower light show.
If you end up going to a restaurant that evening, you might want to go to the end of rue Cler, turn left on rue de Grenelle, cross Avenue Bousquet and then look for rue de l'Exposition on the right. There are three or four good choices on this block; we liked La Billebaude, which specializes in game. Closed Sunday and Monday.
Rodin is very pleasant and informative, especially if the weather allows you to spend time in the gardens.
Not sure on when to go to the Tower; likely that there will be long lines at any time of day in June. The night view from the Arc is wonderful and you get a good look at the Tower light show.
If you end up going to a restaurant that evening, you might want to go to the end of rue Cler, turn left on rue de Grenelle, cross Avenue Bousquet and then look for rue de l'Exposition on the right. There are three or four good choices on this block; we liked La Billebaude, which specializes in game. Closed Sunday and Monday.
