Dear Fodorites, It's been a while since I last contacted you. My husband and I consider ourselves very fortunate to be able to go to Paris for four days in the second week of December. We live in Europe, otherwise we would of course never have been able to go for such a short time. The last time we were in Paris is at least 20 years ago so we are very exited of course.

We have been lucky enough to get tickets to the Messiah in the Eglise St. Germain des Prés. Very much looking forward to that experience!
All suggestions for hotels and of course restaurants are most welcome. We tend to prefer smaller hotels to more modern large ones.
Merci bien tous!

During a trip to France in June/July I had 3 separate stays in Hotel Recamier which is in Place Saint-Sulpice in St.Germain des Pres. Highly recommend this hotel, great location, really nice staff, good breakfast, they have complimentary afternoon cake and coffee/tea, comfortable beds, nice decor etc. There are lots of good restaurants within walking distance, a good sized Monoprix supermarket a few blocks away.

We ate twice at Marcello, a short walk away from the hotel, good food, nice service and twice at Georgette which was really good. Georgette was a slightly longer walk away but perfectly do-able.
I will stay here again next time in Paris.

Thank you so much for your suggestions, rainycitygirl. Much appreciated.

We were lucky enough to spend two weeks in Paris and Bordeaux last week of December and first week of January. We stayed at Hotel d'Angleterre on Rue Jacob near Rue Bonaparte which two blocks away finds you at Eglise St. Germain and Blvd St Germain for the handy Metro right there. Small, Quiet street, great service, large room and bath, there was cafe on corner and another at Eglise St. Germain, the Bonaparte, and Le Deux Magots on corner too. Lovely hotel full breakfast, full comfy bar, elevator, and charming shops along Rue Jacob. So close to Seine via Rue Bonaparte. We enjoyed a Christmas concert at Sainte Chapelle that was fabulous, tickets available online, believe they will coincide with your visit. Didn't have to Metro much, except to/fro Montmartre which was mobbed. The Christmas Mkt along Blvd St. Germain alongside the church was wonderful. Champs du Mars one was mobbed, the one at Place de la Concorde simply beautiful, don't miss it.

I second rcg’s recommendation of Hotel Recamier where we stayed last November.

You will find a bus stop one the opposite side of Place St-Sulpice and a metro station a few blocks away. The organ of the church is considered to be the best of all in Paris. Check the notices outside the church for news of concerts and special recitals. (We went for 11 am mass on Sunday and were surprised when two baskets were passed—one for cash and one for credit cards!)

We enjoyed le Bon Saint Pourçain, a stone’s throw away at 10 bus rue Servandoni—small, cozy, very enjoyable, very good food.

https://www.bonsaintpourcain.com

Another to consider: Baillotte for contemporary French food by a Japanese chef. The spot was very crowded the night we were there (Saturday, perhaps) but very efficiently run with a small, interesting carte.

https://www.restaurantbaillotte.fr/en/

Hello Aliced and K_Marie. This sharing of experiences is what Fodors is all about in my view and experience. Merci bien!
A propos, the last time we were there les Deux Magots had changed into a bit of a tourist trap. Recently I read somewhere though that it's back to what it originally meant to be, a literary café. What's your view?

My view of Le Deux Magots was that on a beautiful Christmas week day, we were seated outside at the corner which about perfect for people watching. There was a small line efficiently and quickly handled by staff. Service was kind and prompt, ordered salads and glasses of wine which were keeping with Paris cafe prices. The waiter covered me with a plush robe over my legs. I think some people, usually Americans behave poorly in France, talking very loudly and being rude. Tables are placed close together but you cannot hear another conversation from the French. Well of course tourists go there because it is a main sight in Paris. I always go to Shakespeare & Co too, and Angelina, as well as new places over our seven trips, and thousands of tourists do too, go to where YOU want. Saint Sulplice area is nice, especially since they gutted and restored the interior few years ago, but area and streets are alot busier. Just sayin',,,,

We spent Thanksgiving week in Paris last year and went to Café de Flore for breakfast. Delicious fluffly omelets and chocolat chaud, we were very happy. Went past Deux Magots too several times and stopped for a coffee one morning, again no complaints at all.

Like aliced says, I think a lot depends on how we conduct ourselves too. Costs nothing to be friendly and polite, the very least one can do IMO.

Merci bien k_marie, Aliced and geetika for your advice and suggestions. Restaurant Baillotte looks very interesting indeed. Lucky for us we'll be in Paris during midweek but I do realize that December is a busy month and for that reason I'd like to book ahead just to be on the safe side.
I love preparing for a city trip like this. We'd like to concentrate on the 'roads less travelled' instead of on the hotspots.

We had four trips to Paris over the past 12 months. Two were about 10 days long (each) and two were shorter (about 5 days). Having direct train service from Basel to Paris makes traveling back and forth easier. We stayed in three different hotels:

Hotel Luxembourg Parc (10 days). 42 rue de Vaugirard. We stayed here in late November/early December. We were able to get a great rate on their one and only suite. This hotel is old fashioned in decor and style but updated in many of the most important ways, like the larger than expected elevator, large bathrooms with good water pressure, lots of international channels on the TV, tons of storage space, etc. The staff were terrific. Breakfast (served in room) was the only slight disappointment. The croissants and fruit salad tasted like something purchased at an inexpensive supermarket. Otherwise, we really enjoyed our stay here; it's right across from the Luxembourg Gardens and a short walk from Saint-Sulpice, The restaurant selection in the immediate vicinity was just ok . The nearby Restaurant Georgette is very popular and has good service but we didn't think there was anything special about the food. Overall hotel score: 8/10

Le Grand Hôtel Cayré. (10 days and then later another 5 days). 4 Blvd. Raspail. We booked a deluxe room with a view of Blvd Raspail and Blvd Saint Germain. I remember when this was the old K&K Cayré hotel. Once a popular writers' hangout, I had always wanted to stay there but in the past decade or so it was really starting to look run-down. We were thrilled to see that it had been sold and beautifully renovated. So we booked a 10-day stay over late spring/early summer to celebrate my husband's birthday.

The Cayré is an elegant and stylish hotel with a variety of rooms from quite simple to a spacious and lovely Eiffel Tower suite. Our deluxe room wasn't large but was handsomely furnished, views of the street life and a location in our very favorite neighborhood. The breakfast was excellent (note: not a buffet, you select from a menu and dine in the hotel's restaurant). We had dinner in the hotel restaurant one night and it was surprisingly good. It also had/has a busy and friendly bar scene (but the noise didn't leak into the bedrooms). We had a second, shorter stay about six weeks later. We will go back as soon as we can arrange it -- with a definite eye on booking that Eiffel Tower suite. Overall hotel score: 9/10 (9.5/10 for the ET suite).

(one more review to come, plus some photos)

Here is our trip report from Paris in December 2023.
We stayed in an apartment but you might find some suggestions in what we did while staying near Blvd. St. Germain.
When we do stay in a hotel our favorite is The Madison Hotel on St. Germain.

Another fantastic December Paris adventure

We also have stayed here twice

https://www.residencehenri4.com/

Not even paying triple the correct price? You are very lucky people.

Wow, I'm having a hard time keeping up with so much information. Thank you, thank you all contributors! Will start digesting it all and am having a great time planning.

Oh! That's my favorite church on my favorite corner of Paris! I was there last Christmas and also 9 years ago yesterday in October! Truly, my favorite corner of Paris!

Two great hotel options nearby are the Hotel de Seine (the favorite of theflock) and the Hotel de l'Abbaye, a favorite of Mimi and the Weekender. It's my very favorite hotel in Paris. Either would be great. The Hotel de Seine is a smidge closer but both are close. I'd be happy with either. I'll add maps too.


Christmas photos from the Hotel de l'Abbaye. One is of the breakfast room/ conservatory which is truly lovely. I love the room service there on winter nights. I'll order a Croque Monsieur, tomato soup and/or hot chocolate. Not expensive and wonderful after coming in on a cold night in Paris or arrival night. The console photo has champagne, cheese tray, etc waiting on arrival night.




The view of the church taken in October 2019, the stars in the sanctuary (I donated a star during the reconstruction), and the absolutely gorgeous but very simple chapel (really my favorite). There's a view of the church from the sidewalk seating at the Cafe Bonaparte (a favorite of MANY Fodorites) and a view of the Bonaparte as we exited the church last December. Les Deux Magots is just up on the corner and Cafe de Flore is around the corner. Le Bonaparte is still my very favorite.



One thing I absolutely loved (I've done it twice at Christmas) is a night tour in a vintage Citroen. So much fun and a great way to see the sights lit up at night. These photos are from 2016 but we did the tour last Christmas too. They will pick you up at your hotel. My friend enjoyed it as much as I did!


A few more favorites - Jules Pansu is OO's favorite store in Paris and now mine too. I buy a tapestry pillow covering on every trip. One Easter they were closed but to my surprise Saint Chapelle's gift shop carried them (I didn't even know there was a gift shop!). There was a nice little Christmas market across from Notre Dame that was very nice. There used to be one at Germain de Pres but only a few vendors last Christmas. I always eat at Mamaw's favorite restaurant, L'Atlas.

The seafood at L'Atlas is amazing - as is everything I've ordered. Her favorite is the chicken fricassee. (I can't remember Mamaw's and OO's newer screen names). Loved the blankets at ready outside. We ate inside. We stayed steps away at the H de S on that part of the trip (pre-cruise). The last photo is of the Citroen going bye after last December's tour. We were staying near Galeries Lafayette on that part of the trip if you are interested in staying closer to the Opera.

So excited for you! I love Christmas in Paris!

The Hotel de Seine is closer. Both are an easy walk to the church. This map shows from the Hotel to Le Bonaparte. The church would be a few steps closer.



The promised maps. Walking distance from the church to the two hotels. Mentioned restaurants pop up there too.

The third hotel I stayed at in Paris was Bonsoir Madame (solo trip), a boutique hotel located at 65 rue Madame in the 6th, a stone's throw from a side entrance to the Luxembourg Gardens. The hotel has a handsome facade and the rue Madame is also very attractive. That said, I had a few problems with the hotel. First, the room was quite small (and it wasn't the cheapest room). Second, it was supposed to be air conditioned -- I was traveling in late July during a heat wave. Normally I wouldn't travel in mid-summer, but I was in Paris to pick up something that couldn't be shipped to Switzerland.

The room was very warm all night even with the windows wide open. I asked the front desk about it the next morning. They checked and then apologized. The AC had to be turned on manually by the front desk when a guest checked in and they had forgotten to turn it on for my room. Hmmm. Also, the breakfast room was quite small, handling maybe only 10 people at a time. I came down early so had no problem getting a table but those who showed up a bit after me had to wait or come back later.

Our previous hotel stay was at Le Grand Hôtel Cayré (see above) and the Bonsoir Madame did not compare well; I wouldn't stay there again, Overall hotel score: 7/10. For us, Le Grand Hôtel Cayré will remain as the clear first choice among 4-star Paris hotels.

Thank you Starrs for your exuberantly enthusiastic description of both your stays in Paris. Also thank you to WeisserTee. I have very been busy with a deadline this week but have promised myself to delve into all the information provided this coming weekend!

Shhhhh, please keep St. Pourcain under wraps or I'll never get another reservation. Kidding aside it was wonderful all around food, service, atmosphere.

What does Kerouac mean by "paying triple the correct price?"