Paris by Pastry
Feb 7th, 2008 | 05:54 AM
#1
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Joined: Apr 2007
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Paris by Pastry
Good Morning All!
My Husband had surgery on his knee yesturday. He will be laid up for at least 10 days. I was going to work today, but he woke up in pain and he's not a baby (like me) he was pale and I was worried. Especially after he asked me to make him biscuits and gravey. So I called off today at the restaurant (they are slow too, we have about 16 inches of snow at our house) and stayed home and made him b&g will all the fixings, he's now out like a light on the couch. SO......
As most of you know, I'm headed to Paris. It's the last of our 10 day trip. We will be there touring for 2 days afterwards I hope to stay another 4 days alone. The French Teacher (who lived in Paris for 10 years as a child) gave me this book to read, and now I'm obessed with doing the whole tour of Paris by Pastry. I figure I'll starve myself for the next 33 days and eat my way through Paris.
I love the after title of this book, Stalking the Sweet life on the streets of Paris. My good friend at the restaurant said I better stay a full 7 days if I want to do it up right, whatya think?
My Husband had surgery on his knee yesturday. He will be laid up for at least 10 days. I was going to work today, but he woke up in pain and he's not a baby (like me) he was pale and I was worried. Especially after he asked me to make him biscuits and gravey. So I called off today at the restaurant (they are slow too, we have about 16 inches of snow at our house) and stayed home and made him b&g will all the fixings, he's now out like a light on the couch. SO......
As most of you know, I'm headed to Paris. It's the last of our 10 day trip. We will be there touring for 2 days afterwards I hope to stay another 4 days alone. The French Teacher (who lived in Paris for 10 years as a child) gave me this book to read, and now I'm obessed with doing the whole tour of Paris by Pastry. I figure I'll starve myself for the next 33 days and eat my way through Paris.
I love the after title of this book, Stalking the Sweet life on the streets of Paris. My good friend at the restaurant said I better stay a full 7 days if I want to do it up right, whatya think?
Feb 7th, 2008 | 06:12 AM
#3
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Joined: Apr 2007
Posts: 2,264
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gruezi! I love your trip report! I have been reading it all along.
How wonderful you and your daughter spent time together and in Paris of all places.
I see you all stayed at the D'Abbuson (?)Hotel, how was it and what was the cost, if you don't mind me asking?
Thanks Theresa in Detroit
How wonderful you and your daughter spent time together and in Paris of all places.
I see you all stayed at the D'Abbuson (?)Hotel, how was it and what was the cost, if you don't mind me asking?
Thanks Theresa in Detroit
Feb 7th, 2008 | 11:34 AM
#7
Joined: Feb 2007
Posts: 169
Likes: 0
I'm in agreement with cathies on not starving yourself. I just spent 1 1/2 weeks eating LOADS of pan au chocolate and my new fav "rolls" (like a pan au chocolate, but with some sort of creamy cheese stuff too) and I swear I lost weight. My mother and our friend both felt the same. All the walking just means MORE eating.
Now we're in Italy, and I have the distinct feeling we are merely walking and seeing sights as a way to build up an appetite between the eating.
Now we're in Italy, and I have the distinct feeling we are merely walking and seeing sights as a way to build up an appetite between the eating.
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Feb 7th, 2008 | 06:57 PM
#10
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Joined: Apr 2007
Posts: 2,264
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This book is killing me, I can't put it down. My husband thinks I'm a fruitcake. I sleep eat and breath food. At home and at the restaurant. I even have the food network on all day (except Sara-Lee she makes me want to puke) and he thinks I'm nuts wanting to hang around paris and eat sweets all day. Now who is the one that's nuts? Not me!
Feb 8th, 2008 | 03:01 AM
#12
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 95
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I bought this book before one of my trips to Paris and thought it was delightful. The writing enhances the eating. It is in my suitcase as I write to share on my next trip with my older daughter. She's been on Weight Watchers, but I told her no counting points when we're in Paris. We'll just walk and walk and walk and the calories will fly off into the air. The sugar cookies at Poilane are one of my favorites and terrific to bring back as long as you don't eat them all on the plane.
Bon appetite!!!!!
Bon appetite!!!!!
Feb 18th, 2008 | 06:37 AM
#13
Joined: Aug 2007
Posts: 42,193
Likes: 7
Hi Mamaw,
Just returned from a whirlwind college tour in the US with the same daughter so I've been off Fodor's for a while. I do hope to finish my Paris report sometime soon...
About the D'Aubusson... In November we paid right around 500USD a night for a superior room on a higher floor (we heard the lower floors you can hear the jazz at night - our room was perfectly quiet). I have mixed emotions about the hotel. The location is perfect for exploring all the basic tourist sights which was great since we were there during the transit strike and so walked just about everywhere. Plus the neighborhood is very charming both day and night.
The concierge service was friendly and excellent.
The fireplace parlor needs all the furniture cleaned or reupholstered. Service there, and at breakfast, left a lot to be desired (no one around, cold tea, etc).
Breakfast came with lots of choices but just a very mediocre croissant - a mini one - disappointing for Paris!
The room was large as was the bathroom but furnishings were average and a bit gloomy and dark. Bathroom had very nice Hermes amenities and large towels. The turn down service was wonderful with really comfortable beds and wonderful linens and a helpful weather report for the next morning.
So, having not been to Paris for many years, I have nothing to compare this hotel with, and I guess 500USD isn't that much anymore for Paris and certainly not for NYC, so maybe it's a great spot but I can't say I was "wowed" but maybe I'm too picky...
I'm heading back to Paris in March (on the 22nd which is my birthday - her's is the 27th) with my other daughter and have chosen the Hotel Luxembourg Parc. I don't think the neighborhood will be quite as convenient, but this daughter is not a big museum buff and gets tired more easily, so I'm hopeful the rooms are a bit more cheerful as I think I'll spend more time at the hotel this time. I will let you know how the two hotels compare IMHO.
Where will you stay?
gruezi
Just returned from a whirlwind college tour in the US with the same daughter so I've been off Fodor's for a while. I do hope to finish my Paris report sometime soon...
About the D'Aubusson... In November we paid right around 500USD a night for a superior room on a higher floor (we heard the lower floors you can hear the jazz at night - our room was perfectly quiet). I have mixed emotions about the hotel. The location is perfect for exploring all the basic tourist sights which was great since we were there during the transit strike and so walked just about everywhere. Plus the neighborhood is very charming both day and night.
The concierge service was friendly and excellent.
The fireplace parlor needs all the furniture cleaned or reupholstered. Service there, and at breakfast, left a lot to be desired (no one around, cold tea, etc).
Breakfast came with lots of choices but just a very mediocre croissant - a mini one - disappointing for Paris!
The room was large as was the bathroom but furnishings were average and a bit gloomy and dark. Bathroom had very nice Hermes amenities and large towels. The turn down service was wonderful with really comfortable beds and wonderful linens and a helpful weather report for the next morning.
So, having not been to Paris for many years, I have nothing to compare this hotel with, and I guess 500USD isn't that much anymore for Paris and certainly not for NYC, so maybe it's a great spot but I can't say I was "wowed" but maybe I'm too picky...
I'm heading back to Paris in March (on the 22nd which is my birthday - her's is the 27th) with my other daughter and have chosen the Hotel Luxembourg Parc. I don't think the neighborhood will be quite as convenient, but this daughter is not a big museum buff and gets tired more easily, so I'm hopeful the rooms are a bit more cheerful as I think I'll spend more time at the hotel this time. I will let you know how the two hotels compare IMHO.
Where will you stay?
gruezi
Feb 18th, 2008 | 10:42 AM
#15
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 794
Likes: 0
I just ordered this book and have every intention of spending at least 2 of our 11 days in Paris doing nothing but pastry crawling around the city!
We're staying in the Marais and we'll definitely be visiting Finkelsztajn's!
Mamaw, I can so relate to the food obsession, especially with a trip tp Paris coming up. I've been reading E-gullet and Chowhound every day as well as countless other Paris food blogs and magazines. I've been carefully compiling lists of restaurants, food markets, patissieres and boulangeries that I must visit. I can't wait to read your report on your food experiences, especially your "Paris by pastry" finds!
We're staying in the Marais and we'll definitely be visiting Finkelsztajn's!
Mamaw, I can so relate to the food obsession, especially with a trip tp Paris coming up. I've been reading E-gullet and Chowhound every day as well as countless other Paris food blogs and magazines. I've been carefully compiling lists of restaurants, food markets, patissieres and boulangeries that I must visit. I can't wait to read your report on your food experiences, especially your "Paris by pastry" finds!
Feb 18th, 2008 | 10:53 AM
#16
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Joined: Apr 2007
Posts: 2,264
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plafield and Gru and DJ I am so obsessed with the food and restaurants. I found some webpage the other night and this guy photographed every meal they had. Some of it I have to say didn't do anything for me, but most of the dishes (especially the desserts) were making me soooo hungry.
This is how desperate I am to stay in Paris 4-5 days longer after my tour with teenagers.....I'm considering purchasing a round trip ticket. From Paris to Detroit and not using the otherend of the ticket. You ask how much is that? Well the lowest non stop fare is 769.00. That does not include hotel. NWA won't let me extend my original ticket because it's a group rate and buying a one way ticket is SO out of the question 1350.00 up to 3500.00, hard to believe.
I have the Paris by Pastry book right here at the computer. I have been researching every store online. My Honey is gone for 10 days to Cancun, so I will have lots of time to surf the net. When I asked my DH what should I do about staying in Paris, he said " do whatever you want" that was the go ahead, but I can't see myself shelling out that kind of money. But on the other hand, I don't know when I will ever get back to Paris.
This is how desperate I am to stay in Paris 4-5 days longer after my tour with teenagers.....I'm considering purchasing a round trip ticket. From Paris to Detroit and not using the otherend of the ticket. You ask how much is that? Well the lowest non stop fare is 769.00. That does not include hotel. NWA won't let me extend my original ticket because it's a group rate and buying a one way ticket is SO out of the question 1350.00 up to 3500.00, hard to believe.
I have the Paris by Pastry book right here at the computer. I have been researching every store online. My Honey is gone for 10 days to Cancun, so I will have lots of time to surf the net. When I asked my DH what should I do about staying in Paris, he said " do whatever you want" that was the go ahead, but I can't see myself shelling out that kind of money. But on the other hand, I don't know when I will ever get back to Paris.
Feb 18th, 2008 | 02:17 PM
#17
Joined: Feb 2003
Posts: 45
Likes: 0
To Gruezi:
We have stayed at D'Aubusson and are currently booked there for six nights this March...I keep wondering if we are missing something- should we be pursuing other accomodations? Such a lot of money for a room in Paris.
I have read your Paris travelogue and thoroughly enjoyed it. My husband and I will be taking our 15 year old daughter with us...any suggestions regarding restaurants, sites, etc, would be most appreciated!
KathrynP
We have stayed at D'Aubusson and are currently booked there for six nights this March...I keep wondering if we are missing something- should we be pursuing other accomodations? Such a lot of money for a room in Paris.
I have read your Paris travelogue and thoroughly enjoyed it. My husband and I will be taking our 15 year old daughter with us...any suggestions regarding restaurants, sites, etc, would be most appreciated!
KathrynP
Feb 20th, 2008 | 12:11 PM
#18
Joined: May 2005
Posts: 357
Likes: 0
There are so many hotels in Paris that are probably less than 500E/$ per night. Have you done a hotel search? I know there are websites by arrondissement - so pick the arr. you want to stay in and check out the hotels in that area.
Have you considered an apartment? My group stayed in an apartment on my last trip to Paris and I will probably never stay in a hotel again. You can pick up great food items at the various outdoor markets and eat at your own table in your own apartment. However, I see that as of February 7th, you only had 33 days, so it might be late to find an apartment. If you want to, however, try www.vrbo.com, choose Paris, and then dive in to whatever arrondissment suits your needs. There are tons of Paris apartment websites to look through, not just the vrbo.
Enjoy!
joy/luvparee
Have you considered an apartment? My group stayed in an apartment on my last trip to Paris and I will probably never stay in a hotel again. You can pick up great food items at the various outdoor markets and eat at your own table in your own apartment. However, I see that as of February 7th, you only had 33 days, so it might be late to find an apartment. If you want to, however, try www.vrbo.com, choose Paris, and then dive in to whatever arrondissment suits your needs. There are tons of Paris apartment websites to look through, not just the vrbo.
Enjoy!
joy/luvparee
Feb 21st, 2008 | 06:08 AM
#19
Joined: Aug 2007
Posts: 42,193
Likes: 7
Mamaw-
Treat yourself - you know you will be sorry you didn't and we all know you deserve it!!
When exactly is your trip?
What are the top 3 spots for pastry so far? I'd love to try them, but don't have time to get the book... I head to Paris in March but I'm crazy busy between now and then.
Kathryn-
Well, it's hard to say about the hotel with nothing to compare it to... so let us know what you think and I will report back on the Luxembourg Parc! I have read every single hotel review (well, a lot of them anyway) here on Fodor's and on Tripadvisor. People really seem to love D'Aubusson so I guess it's just me... I like a bright, sunny place which our room at D'A. was not - this is one of my quirks I guess. My favorite thing was the location. If your daughter likes jazz they have the piano bar there too...
With your 15-year-old...
Do take her to the Laduree in the 6th and sit upstairs for tea or hot chocolate or a pastry. My daughter loved this spot and we went 3x's.
The Eiffel tower at night was her other favorite - walk under and around it and stay for a few of the twinklings...also, there was a huge ferris wheel that looked like fun but my d. doesn't like them and I didn't want to go alone.
I think I mentioned in my trip report we sprung for the restaurant on top of the Musee du Quai Branly - Les Ombres - and the view of the Eiffel tower was pretty spectacular. The food was good, but not unbelievable, but again I'm a bit picky...You pay for the view...We didn't really eat any other fancy dinners as my daughter has a small appetite - in fact one night we had sandwiches in our room and read... she's a bit nerdy
My older daughter is into art and history and really loved the Louvre. Since she is studying art history and the weekend was a birthday gift, I booked a private tour through Paris Muse of the Louvre. She really enjoyed it and so did I. I had never been before, and the tour guide made the museum very approachable and not tiring at all. I'm thinking of repeating this with daughter number 2.
www.parismuse.com
Older daughter also loved the Rodin museum as did I... not too big and if you have a sunny day a pretty garden as well. The audio is good.
I loved the Musee D'Orsay but we did the audio there and it was really overwhelming and hard to just get an overview - my daughter was less enthused but perhaps tired by then. Perhaps head to the Degas room if your daughter likes dance - lovely sculptures of ballerinas. We also enjoyed Sainte Chapelle and walking around the outside of Notre Dame. Also, we loved the Place des Voges - reminded us of the "who will buy?" scene in the movie "Oliver"...
I think with daughter number 2, who isn't quite the museum fan, I will try the Marmottan in the 16th. I hear the neighborhood is lovely and it's a smaller museum, with great Monet's, and not so busy. Also, I will definitely do a Seine cruise with her. I am looking for suggestions on which cruise to do and whether day or night is better...Also on the list for her is Centre Pompidou, climbing the Arc de Triomphe, the Pantheon (she's into domes since she studied the Renaissance), and of course the Eiffel tower but I'll skip the fancy restaurant as she basically just eats plain pasta... Also, she has a sweet tooth like her mom so hopefully Mamaw will suggest some pastry stops...
There is a tour of the sewers that is supposed to be pretty cool but not my kind of thing...
The view from Sacre Coer is really wonderful at sunset...and there are some souvenir shops in that neighborhood.
My daughter had limited shopping funds, but had it in her head to buy perfume in Paris. We spent a couple hours at Galleries Lafayette trying a million scents and she found one she loved. Funny, it was an American scent, but she wears it every day and it reminds her of our trip. Plus, it was easy to fit in her luggage. Okay, she also wanted to buy French underwear but I am glad she could not afford to do that - I'm just not ready to go there...
Let me know what you plan to do as well as I need ideas for my next trip... my second daughter will be 14 and she is not as energetic nor as keen on museums except in a more overview way. She likes shopping and "cool" things, interesting people watching, and is more mechanically and scientific minded...
gruezi
Treat yourself - you know you will be sorry you didn't and we all know you deserve it!!
When exactly is your trip?
What are the top 3 spots for pastry so far? I'd love to try them, but don't have time to get the book... I head to Paris in March but I'm crazy busy between now and then.
Kathryn-
Well, it's hard to say about the hotel with nothing to compare it to... so let us know what you think and I will report back on the Luxembourg Parc! I have read every single hotel review (well, a lot of them anyway) here on Fodor's and on Tripadvisor. People really seem to love D'Aubusson so I guess it's just me... I like a bright, sunny place which our room at D'A. was not - this is one of my quirks I guess. My favorite thing was the location. If your daughter likes jazz they have the piano bar there too...
With your 15-year-old...
Do take her to the Laduree in the 6th and sit upstairs for tea or hot chocolate or a pastry. My daughter loved this spot and we went 3x's.
The Eiffel tower at night was her other favorite - walk under and around it and stay for a few of the twinklings...also, there was a huge ferris wheel that looked like fun but my d. doesn't like them and I didn't want to go alone.
I think I mentioned in my trip report we sprung for the restaurant on top of the Musee du Quai Branly - Les Ombres - and the view of the Eiffel tower was pretty spectacular. The food was good, but not unbelievable, but again I'm a bit picky...You pay for the view...We didn't really eat any other fancy dinners as my daughter has a small appetite - in fact one night we had sandwiches in our room and read... she's a bit nerdy
My older daughter is into art and history and really loved the Louvre. Since she is studying art history and the weekend was a birthday gift, I booked a private tour through Paris Muse of the Louvre. She really enjoyed it and so did I. I had never been before, and the tour guide made the museum very approachable and not tiring at all. I'm thinking of repeating this with daughter number 2.
www.parismuse.com
Older daughter also loved the Rodin museum as did I... not too big and if you have a sunny day a pretty garden as well. The audio is good.
I loved the Musee D'Orsay but we did the audio there and it was really overwhelming and hard to just get an overview - my daughter was less enthused but perhaps tired by then. Perhaps head to the Degas room if your daughter likes dance - lovely sculptures of ballerinas. We also enjoyed Sainte Chapelle and walking around the outside of Notre Dame. Also, we loved the Place des Voges - reminded us of the "who will buy?" scene in the movie "Oliver"...
I think with daughter number 2, who isn't quite the museum fan, I will try the Marmottan in the 16th. I hear the neighborhood is lovely and it's a smaller museum, with great Monet's, and not so busy. Also, I will definitely do a Seine cruise with her. I am looking for suggestions on which cruise to do and whether day or night is better...Also on the list for her is Centre Pompidou, climbing the Arc de Triomphe, the Pantheon (she's into domes since she studied the Renaissance), and of course the Eiffel tower but I'll skip the fancy restaurant as she basically just eats plain pasta... Also, she has a sweet tooth like her mom so hopefully Mamaw will suggest some pastry stops...
There is a tour of the sewers that is supposed to be pretty cool but not my kind of thing...
The view from Sacre Coer is really wonderful at sunset...and there are some souvenir shops in that neighborhood.
My daughter had limited shopping funds, but had it in her head to buy perfume in Paris. We spent a couple hours at Galleries Lafayette trying a million scents and she found one she loved. Funny, it was an American scent, but she wears it every day and it reminds her of our trip. Plus, it was easy to fit in her luggage. Okay, she also wanted to buy French underwear but I am glad she could not afford to do that - I'm just not ready to go there...
Let me know what you plan to do as well as I need ideas for my next trip... my second daughter will be 14 and she is not as energetic nor as keen on museums except in a more overview way. She likes shopping and "cool" things, interesting people watching, and is more mechanically and scientific minded...
gruezi
