Paris, Avenue des Gobelins

Old Jul 28th, 2005 | 09:11 PM
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If you actually decide to stay in this area, I would recomand a visit to the rarely if ever mentionned here "butte aux cailles" neighborhood, around the street going by the same name, which has a "province town" feeling to it and a number of restaurants.
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Old Jul 28th, 2005 | 09:40 PM
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I'm not afraid that I won't be able to find suitable food, or that I'll starve to death, especially in Paris. My problem is strictly a matter of willpower, or lack of same.

I'm thinking of this as a personal challenge, not an insurmountable obstacle. I think I can, I think I can....
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Old Jul 28th, 2005 | 11:07 PM
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I know this part of Paris quite well and I like it a lot. It's certainly within walking distance of the fun parts of the 5th arrondissement, but you're still out of all the touristy hustle and bustle. (I'm not really sure why Travelnut would say that it's not that near rue Monge seeing as that road turns into avenue des Gobelins).
It's an easy walk to the Jardin des Plantes and the Mouffetard area, and the Ile St Louis is certainly no more than a half hour walk at the most (unless you walk uncommonly slowly). You're also not far from the Institut du Monde Arabe which has some very interesting exhibitions from time to time. The Paris mosque is also nearby, as are the gorgeous Moorish tea-rooms and hammam.

In the other direction, as clairobscur says, there's the Butte aux Cailles area which is definitely worth a stroll around.
I certainly wouldn't hesitate to stay in this part of Paris. Hope you have a good time!!
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Old Jul 28th, 2005 | 11:40 PM
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Marty, on the 5th arrondissement side of the avenue des Gobelins, is one of my favorite brasseries in Paris, with vintage 1930s decor and of course excellent food.

Av des Gobelins is one of the few remaining "cinema avenues" away from the classic Quartier latin and Champs Elysées theaters. The ones on the Place d'italie end are not particularly attractive, but l'Escurial, on bd Arago, is a great 1920s art movie theater, with VO movies shown. Bd Arago BTW is an interesting place to explore, with great little restaurants, especially the one at the intersection of rue de la Glacière, quite a trendy decor (sorry I don't remember its name). Be sure to visit the Cité fleurie, a turn of the century artist village with charming little houses that have escaped the developers' bulldozers. And you'll be next to La Santé, Paris's main prison, so lots of police and security around!

Transport wise, Gobelins station is perfectly suitable and line 7 meanders throughout most of Paris. But don't overlook bus 91, Bastille-Montparnasse, that now has its own dedicated corridor à la Curitiba in Brazil, and is as efficient as the métro.
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Old Jul 29th, 2005 | 02:00 AM
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Nina, I love this area. It is off the tourist path but close enough to the action. The area is upscale and beautiful. Be sure to check out Hediards which is just down the street from you. There is a little market right in front of the church off of Rue Daubenton from time to time. Up the street from you is Martys which has an amazing 1930's decor: http://www.marty-restaurant.com/ . I havent eaten there but have wanted to. It has great eye appeal at anyrate.

A somewhat hidden attraction of the neighborhood is the Chateau de la Reine Blanche on 12 rue Berbier du Metz. This is a small street off of the Avenue des Gobelins. Be sure to walk around the entire Chateau which requires you going around "the block" if you will. There are several views through gates as it is nestled amoung bldgs. On the main gate you will find tour days and hours. I think they are only in French however. It was built in the 1500s in the renaissance style not unlike the cluny museum. It has very recently been restored.

A little further off but in the Butte aux Cailles area mentioned by another poster is the Cité Daviel, also known as la Petite Alsace, 7 rue Daviel; Métro: Glacière or Corvisart. Walk through an arched doorway and you will find yourself in a courtyard surrounded by brick and stone cottages. There are 40 small homes built in 1912 for Parisian working families. It is a most unusual site in the middle of the city.

If you are interested in the Gobelins factory mentioned by another poster, here is a bit more info:

http://www.monum.fr/visitez/decouvri...=en#-Ouverture

These are all somewhat second tier attractions but if you have already seen the large monuments, these are lots of fun. Plus it is a blast discovering your own neighborhood. I think the location of your apartment is outstanding. I am a resident of Paris and if I were recommending a location for someone to stay I would not hesitate to recommend that neighborhood.
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Old Jul 29th, 2005 | 02:02 AM
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Hmm that link didnt work... here try this:

http://tinyurl.com/bhess
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Old Jul 29th, 2005 | 02:09 AM
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To be a little more precise about the location of the Chateau de la Reine Blanche: It surronded by Rue des Gobelins, Rue Gustave Geffroy and Rue Berbier.
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Old Jul 29th, 2005 | 03:32 AM
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I am watching this post with a bit of trepidation wondering if the Underhill posting here is the same Underhill that I know and love. MY Underhill would never mention the Au Petit Maguery without the words MUSHROOMS in the same breath.Also note that Scallops Ravioli is another featured starter and individual souffles are available for desert if ordered at the start. All of these with a slight premium to the cost of the dinner.
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Old Jul 29th, 2005 | 03:55 AM
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Bigal, I laughed when I read "individual" souffles: my Grand Marnier souffle was included with the meal, and could have served 3 people easily! I barely touched it after my veal ragnons (spelling?), and THEN they brought the cookie plate!
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Old Jul 29th, 2005 | 04:18 AM
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What allisonm said.
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Old Jul 29th, 2005 | 04:45 AM
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Well Nina? Sounds like a terrific plan! AAAAAhhh... how I will envy you this experience... I am printing the thread - someday to stay in Paris for a longer time...

Have the best time.
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Old Jul 29th, 2005 | 07:22 AM
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I am overwhelmed with the things that you have suggested. That is exactly what I was looking for. We want to meander the neighborhood and see what we may. I've been to the Gobelins Factory and loved it, so we probably won't return this trip. Everything else is new to us.

Fodorites are like 'having a friend in the business'.

Yes, I promise a trip report, sometime in mid-October.


Nina
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Old Jul 29th, 2005 | 07:30 AM
  #33  
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P.S. The cinema info is particularly interesting. On longer stays, we always go to the movies a few times. Sometimes we see older or art movies and other times we catch up on the newer American films (VO) that we never seem to have time to see here.

We appreciate the French audiences, they are quiet, not like at home. We usually go along St. Germain or in the Bastille, but your suggestions are close to 'home' and the theaters themselves sound interesting.

Champions (sp), Underhill you're my kind of eater.
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Old Jul 29th, 2005 | 08:46 AM
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I recommend purchasing Thirza Vallois' book "Around and About Paris", volume three, for some good historic background, plus a few walking tours of the neighborhood that will take you from the Butte aux Cailles to such places as the Cite Florale, Alsatian village, etc.
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Old Jul 29th, 2005 | 01:42 PM
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If you decide to go for a recent american movie, check out the Gaumont Grand Ecran located on Place d'Italie. It is inside the building with the modern glass facade. You cant miss it. It has very comfortable seats along with great sound and one of the largest screens in paris.
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Old Jul 30th, 2005 | 06:00 PM
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Nina... I'm looking forward to exploring "your" Paris neighborhood. I've been spending my time checking out places to see in the double digit neighborhoods. The 13th comes high on the list of places to explore. I also recommend Thirza Vallois' book "Around and About Paris", volume three.

We have an apartment reserved in the 16th, in May 2006. I think that it will be wonderful to have an apartment outside the single digit areas and then be able to go "home" to a bit of quiet.
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Old Jul 31st, 2005 | 02:22 AM
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Our apartment owner said that the apartment is on the edge of the 5th, so it's no double digit this time. We have stayed in the 14th on another trip.

We found a _fabulous_ looking apartment in the 16th on VRBO, but unfortunately our dates were not available. It is on the top of our list for our next trip.

I will be going to the bookstore in the next few days and will try to find Around and About Paris. Amazon has all three volumes.
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Old Jul 31st, 2005 | 03:16 AM
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Nina: Would you divulge the website or internet address of your apartment. We are going in March 2006. We always stay in the Marais, but I am thinking of a change.
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Old Jul 31st, 2005 | 03:08 PM
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Opaldog - You have to remember that we only know this apartment by the website and the info received from the owner, an American, who incidently is charming and very easy to deal with.

After _asking_, I found out that the apartment is fairly small, but seems to contain everything that we need. I have no other knowledge of it.

We have rented about ten apartments in Paris, and some were OK, some mediocre, and some were the worst dumps we've ever seen. These dumps were all in the best parts of Paris - Quai Bourbon on St. Louis, Rue Dauphine and the worst one of all, Rue Jacob right by Pl. de Furstenberg. Disgusting would actually be a compliment for these places.

As anyone who has ever rented anywhere, websites, photographs, owners' bragging (read - out and out lies), mean absolutely nothing.

I deliberately did not ask if anyone here knew this apartment, because it was such a last mintute rush rush deal and even through I did a lot of research and looked at many many apartments, this one was the first one that came through with our tentative dates so that we could coordinate and make flight reservations at a very busy time of the year.

Here goes -- if anyone has personal knowledge of the apartment, I guess (?) that I want to know.

Keeping my fingers crossed:

http://www.lacigaleparis.com/HargroveApt.html

I'll let you know when I do my trip report.
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Old Jul 31st, 2005 | 03:42 PM
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Note that the name of the restaurant changed about a year ago to AU Petit Marguery.

And yes, Bigal (aha! now I know who you are), the sautéed wood mushrooms with garlic and parsley are not to be missed when dining at Au Petit Marguery. Sigh.
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