Paris, Avenue des Gobelins
 

I always plan my trips well in advance, but last week we decided to go to Paris for a month in September.

Between coordinating the airline reservations and finding a suitable apartment with the same available dates - September yet .... it was quite challanging. I had to move the dates around a a week or so, but finally coordinated everything in four really hectic days and nights - a miracle for a compulsive nitpicker like me.

Since time was of the essence, we had to take the first and almost only apartment that met our requirements - except for our preferred locations. It is on Gobelins near the Gobelins metro stop.

We have made numerous trips to Paris, but have never stayed in this area or to the best of my knowledge spent much time there. We've stayed in quite a few areas, but prefer to stay near the Pl. des Vosges or St. Louis areas. Much to my chagrin, the apartment that we had been hoping for, contacted me (with a few days variance in the available dates) just after I made very hard to come by reservations and contracted for the apartment.

Get to the point Nina ... I'm not worried about the apartment itself (famous last words), but I'd like some info on the neighborhod - area itself. I'm satisfied that it is a good one, but I'd like to know things such as - what is within decent walking distance (30 minutes or so), how far to walk to St. Louis, or St. Germain, and what's interesting in the vicinity of the apartment or nearby, restaurants etc..

We are great walkers, but I'd love some inside info. The owner stresses the Rue Mouffetard market but not much else. I can understand because it is "her" neighbor and she relaxes when there. I'm sure that there is info in the apartment, but I'd like to know as much as possible in advance.

PLEASE... to save my sanity and my marriage, and already written into stone, nothing negative, just positive things and distances, all kinds of recommendations - just for this area.

Four days and nights on the phone and/or on-line have taken their toll- mainly because of the waiting and then the numerous disappointments.

I broke my own 'land speed' record on this one, and it's a done deal. Thank heavens for the internet. I've still got 7 weeks left to plan the rest of the stay - like the all night Metro tour!

An old Frommer $5 and $10 a day traveler.

Nina

Not too far from the area you'll be staying is an excellent bistro, Au Petit Marguery. It's one of our Paris favorites--very good food at reasonable prices (the prix fixe menu is around 38€). The hotel is near Place d'Italie.

Hi Nina66, If your apartment is near Rue Mouffetard, your food shopping at the markets will be a fun part of your apartment stay. My husband and I walked that area on our last visit and felt no fear. Take normal precautions (don't flaunt, wear money belt, go to ATM's during the day with someone) and you should be fine. My Eyewitness book mentions Jardin de Plantes and Manufacture des Gobelins (among others) in that area. Near Rue Moufftard, Rue de Monge has 2 metro stops and Ave. des Gobelins has 1 so you should be able to get cross town easily. In 30 minutes, I'd say you can get to the Seine with time to spare. Also to Pantheon, Jardin du Luxembourg, Montparnasse area with lots of places to eat with les etudiants!

I just visited Paris last week and stayed for the first time near the Pantheon/Rue Mouffetard/Rue Monge area. It's a very relaxed place to stay. Everything donco said is true.

Thanks Underhill, For sure we will try the restaurant.

Donco, I guess we have spent more time in the area that I thought. We have been to all of the places that you mentioned except the Jardin de Plantes, which was on our list.

We love the convenience of the Metro, but have to walk off the constant eating - grazing as we call it. Any more suggestions????

Now that we are closing in on 60, hub and I take metro "out" to a destination and walk and eat our way "back"! Works well for us. Please report back when you return and have a wonderful time!

If you go to www.pagesjaunes.fr you can plug in the address of the apartment you can take a virtual walk around your neighborhood.

I've stayed in that neighborhood and like it a lot. One of my favorite poems, actually, has that name (by Jacques Prevert).

I've written a couple posts describing various things in the neighborhood and some restaurants I liked which should be available in a search -- just use the word gobelins. The Gobelins tapestry factory is nearby, of course, if you want to visit that. I would not say the Pantheon or Luxembourg gardens are eactly in the immediately vicinity.

It's mainly a residential neighborhood, it isn't that there are lots of specific sites or things to see that a tourist is going to go to within a few blocks. It's only about a mile from the Seine. If you mean Ile St Louis, I imagine you could walk there in 30 minutes -- St Germain, probably the part near Luxembourg Gardens.You could walk straight west along bd Port Royal (which I think is a pleasant boulevard) to Montparnasse in less time. It's about 1 km to Closerie des Lilas cafe there. It's about 1.5 km to Ile St Louis.

There's a good bus that goes right to/from Luxembourg Gardens down rue Claude Bernard (although I don't think it's at night after 9).

I'm not going to be negative (not applicable since I stay farther out than your location )... just to clarify:

avenue de Gobelins is in the 13th, and is at the south end of rue Mouffetard. It isn't <i>that</i> near the Pantheon or rue Monge.

You'll have decent connections at Place d'Italie for your metro line and 2 more. You should investigate the bus routes as well.

It should be easy for you to take the RER from CDG, then a taxi from Denfert Rochereau (if you are so inclined).

There is another recommended restaurant in the 13th, 'l'Avant Gout' or something like that (I haven't been to it).

Someone named 'Keren' stayed at the Residence Gobelins last year, so try to find her post about the area.

You can also take a walkabout to the Buttes-aux-Cailles area further south (street runs off rue Bobillot, south of Place d'Italie). A quaint rustic neighborhood with single-story houses and gardens....

Hi Nina,

My husband and I stayed off Place de Italie on our first trip and on Rue Monge on our second, so we are fairly familiar with the area. The Gobelins stop had been under construction in the spring but is open now. As was said above, you can walk to Place de Italie and get the train there - convenient to other lines - I don't have a map in front of me to get specific. We are serious walkers and walked all over from Hotel Monge, so I don't think you will have too much trouble getting around from Gobelins. I would also support Underhill's rec for Au Petite Marguery, but you should have a reservation. There is a large movie theater in the area, a Leon Bruxelles, and other small and interesting bistros. We had the best sandwiches of our first trip at a patisserie on Place de Italie, and there is a large mall with a supermarket and Printemps (for a rainy day!) I think you will be fine!

I like that neighborhood--it's quiet and kind of workaday Paris, with a nice atmosphere and several good restaurants.

When we visited, I wanted to tour the Gobelins tapestry factory, but you need to make appointments in advance.
That said, it's certainly not one of the more prime tourist neighborhoods or destinations. Who cares? You've probably seen Notre Dame a thousand times.

Yes, I think you could walk to rue Mouffetard or Luxembourg Gardens, if you're feeling ambitious and the weather's nice. It's certainly not a quick jaunt out the front door, though.
I'd think it would take close to an hour to walk to the Ile St. Louis; you could probably reach the lower end of the 6eme arrondiement in 20 minutes or so; probably closer to 35-45 minutes to reach the area around St. Germain, Deux Magots, etc.

But still--it's Paris!! Have a wonderful visit and please write a report about your experiences in this neighborhood when you return.

Merci, merci, merci.... I am starting to come alive again and the neighborhood, as far out as it is, sounds wonderful. The apartment is across the street from one of our favorite (blush) funky places to shop ... Monoprix. I was afraid that we would be isolated an would have to take the Metro everywhere. Such a relief, even after checking the Paris Plan, to know that things are walkable.

Underhill or Allison do you by chance have the phone number or address of A Petit Marguery? If not, it's time for me to dig out my books and started planning things and I'm sure that it is listed in one of the many, many, too many, books that I have.

We hope do some of the things that have been on our wanna do list for years - Andre Citroen Park, Commando Nissim, the tower as late at night as possible, cocktails at Cafe Georges at Sunset (highly recommended by a friend), Buttes Chaumont, and see the marionettes in Luxumbourg Gardens - for the 5th or 6th time. We love that show and really enjoy seeing the excited 3-4 year old audience screaming at the puppets.

We also like to use our metro/bs passes and get off of the bus anywhere we want, wander around, get back on the bus and do it over and over.

Thank all you for 'waking me up', I've missed Paris so.

Nina

Le Petit Marguery
9, bd de Port-Royal
01 43 31 58 59

Pardon the above typos, in my excitement, I hit 'post' or maybe the Fodor Gods thought that I had said enough.

One thing about this trip will be very very different for us. For lack of a better word, we are foodies. We like most of you, plan our trips around restaurants, often traveling great distances for a special meal, both in and out of the City.

I was told a seven months ago that I have Diabetes. I went into panic mode (not uncommon for me) but in a short time with medicine and diet, I was able to control it. One BIG advantage ... I know weigh what is on my driver's license!

I have been afraid to eat out unless absolutely necessary (very little self control) and this trip, almost a month in duation, will be a real test.

I know the French, and know that it is next to impossible to change a Formula meal or plate. Now that has become my problem - not their's! And all those desserts, patisseries, bakeries, street crepes, etc... hard to walk down the block without stuffing my face.

That's the main reason that I haven't asked for restaurant recommendations in the area - I know plenty everywhere else! BUT, I will make an exception with Au Petit Marguery - afterall you went to so much trouble to recommend it and it is soooo close to the apartment.
I'm only doing it for you guys ... not me! ;-)

The prix fixe menu has about a dozen choices for each of 3 courses. The first two--you could have salad and fish--should pose no problem. Dessert...I don't know. There might be fresh fruit. Ask.

There is usually fromage (w/o bread of course) for dessert as an option...less sugar than the fruit I'd think. Or just skip right to the caf&eacute; (bring your own splenda packet)

Isn't one of the bric-a-brac flea markets down in that area somewhere?

Sounds wonderful. Don't forget to report back s.v.p!

I am sure there are a number of vegetarian restaurants as well...check a current copy of Zagats... Not to mention the beautiful fruits and veggies at the markets! Perhaps a Mediterranean-style cuisine would suit your new food plan..?
Check for Patrick's posts - I recall him mentioning that he is diabetic (if not him, there is someone who posted in recent times).

Hi Nina66! I've stayed at the Hotel Carofftel Gobelins on Ave. des Gobelins near Rue Mouffetard. It is a very nice area, quiet, near metro stations, full of restaurants, markets (Rue de Monge has a good one). It is also safe; my friend and I walked back to the hotel late at night with no problems. Enjoy!

Several years ago, dear friends did a house swap with a french family whose flat was not far from Gobelins and Rue Mouffetard. I visited and found the location to be wonderful. The Rue Mouffetard had fabuolous cheese, wine and vegetable shops that we would patronize and use to stock the fridge. That might be one way of controlling your diet and enjoying the neigborhood just like the locals. This location won't disappoint, I assure you.