Paris, Avenue des Gobelins
 

I always plan my trips well in advance, but last week we decided to go to Paris for a month in September.

Between coordinating the airline reservations and finding a suitable apartment with the same available dates - September yet .... it was quite challanging. I had to move the dates around a a week or so, but finally coordinated everything in four really hectic days and nights - a miracle for a compulsive nitpicker like me.

Since time was of the essence, we had to take the first and almost only apartment that met our requirements - except for our preferred locations. It is on Gobelins near the Gobelins metro stop.

We have made numerous trips to Paris, but have never stayed in this area or to the best of my knowledge spent much time there. We've stayed in quite a few areas, but prefer to stay near the Pl. des Vosges or St. Louis areas. Much to my chagrin, the apartment that we had been hoping for, contacted me (with a few days variance in the available dates) just after I made very hard to come by reservations and contracted for the apartment.

Get to the point Nina ... I'm not worried about the apartment itself (famous last words), but I'd like some info on the neighborhod - area itself. I'm satisfied that it is a good one, but I'd like to know things such as - what is within decent walking distance (30 minutes or so), how far to walk to St. Louis, or St. Germain, and what's interesting in the vicinity of the apartment or nearby, restaurants etc..

We are great walkers, but I'd love some inside info. The owner stresses the Rue Mouffetard market but not much else. I can understand because it is "her" neighbor and she relaxes when there. I'm sure that there is info in the apartment, but I'd like to know as much as possible in advance.

PLEASE... to save my sanity and my marriage, and already written into stone, nothing negative, just positive things and distances, all kinds of recommendations - just for this area.

Four days and nights on the phone and/or on-line have taken their toll- mainly because of the waiting and then the numerous disappointments.

I broke my own 'land speed' record on this one, and it's a done deal. Thank heavens for the internet. I've still got 7 weeks left to plan the rest of the stay - like the all night Metro tour!

An old Frommer $5 and $10 a day traveler.

Nina

Not too far from the area you'll be staying is an excellent bistro, Au Petit Marguery. It's one of our Paris favorites--very good food at reasonable prices (the prix fixe menu is around 38€). The hotel is near Place d'Italie.

Hi Nina66, If your apartment is near Rue Mouffetard, your food shopping at the markets will be a fun part of your apartment stay. My husband and I walked that area on our last visit and felt no fear. Take normal precautions (don't flaunt, wear money belt, go to ATM's during the day with someone) and you should be fine. My Eyewitness book mentions Jardin de Plantes and Manufacture des Gobelins (among others) in that area. Near Rue Moufftard, Rue de Monge has 2 metro stops and Ave. des Gobelins has 1 so you should be able to get cross town easily. In 30 minutes, I'd say you can get to the Seine with time to spare. Also to Pantheon, Jardin du Luxembourg, Montparnasse area with lots of places to eat with les etudiants!

I just visited Paris last week and stayed for the first time near the Pantheon/Rue Mouffetard/Rue Monge area. It's a very relaxed place to stay. Everything donco said is true.

Thanks Underhill, For sure we will try the restaurant.

Donco, I guess we have spent more time in the area that I thought. We have been to all of the places that you mentioned except the Jardin de Plantes, which was on our list.

We love the convenience of the Metro, but have to walk off the constant eating - grazing as we call it. Any more suggestions????

Now that we are closing in on 60, hub and I take metro "out" to a destination and walk and eat our way "back"! Works well for us. Please report back when you return and have a wonderful time!

If you go to www.pagesjaunes.fr you can plug in the address of the apartment you can take a virtual walk around your neighborhood.

I've stayed in that neighborhood and like it a lot. One of my favorite poems, actually, has that name (by Jacques Prevert).

I've written a couple posts describing various things in the neighborhood and some restaurants I liked which should be available in a search -- just use the word gobelins. The Gobelins tapestry factory is nearby, of course, if you want to visit that. I would not say the Pantheon or Luxembourg gardens are eactly in the immediately vicinity.

It's mainly a residential neighborhood, it isn't that there are lots of specific sites or things to see that a tourist is going to go to within a few blocks. It's only about a mile from the Seine. If you mean Ile St Louis, I imagine you could walk there in 30 minutes -- St Germain, probably the part near Luxembourg Gardens.You could walk straight west along bd Port Royal (which I think is a pleasant boulevard) to Montparnasse in less time. It's about 1 km to Closerie des Lilas cafe there. It's about 1.5 km to Ile St Louis.

There's a good bus that goes right to/from Luxembourg Gardens down rue Claude Bernard (although I don't think it's at night after 9).

I'm not going to be negative (not applicable since I stay farther out than your location )... just to clarify:

avenue de Gobelins is in the 13th, and is at the south end of rue Mouffetard. It isn't <i>that</i> near the Pantheon or rue Monge.

You'll have decent connections at Place d'Italie for your metro line and 2 more. You should investigate the bus routes as well.

It should be easy for you to take the RER from CDG, then a taxi from Denfert Rochereau (if you are so inclined).

There is another recommended restaurant in the 13th, 'l'Avant Gout' or something like that (I haven't been to it).

Someone named 'Keren' stayed at the Residence Gobelins last year, so try to find her post about the area.

You can also take a walkabout to the Buttes-aux-Cailles area further south (street runs off rue Bobillot, south of Place d'Italie). A quaint rustic neighborhood with single-story houses and gardens....

Hi Nina,

My husband and I stayed off Place de Italie on our first trip and on Rue Monge on our second, so we are fairly familiar with the area. The Gobelins stop had been under construction in the spring but is open now. As was said above, you can walk to Place de Italie and get the train there - convenient to other lines - I don't have a map in front of me to get specific. We are serious walkers and walked all over from Hotel Monge, so I don't think you will have too much trouble getting around from Gobelins. I would also support Underhill's rec for Au Petite Marguery, but you should have a reservation. There is a large movie theater in the area, a Leon Bruxelles, and other small and interesting bistros. We had the best sandwiches of our first trip at a patisserie on Place de Italie, and there is a large mall with a supermarket and Printemps (for a rainy day!) I think you will be fine!

I like that neighborhood--it's quiet and kind of workaday Paris, with a nice atmosphere and several good restaurants.

When we visited, I wanted to tour the Gobelins tapestry factory, but you need to make appointments in advance.
That said, it's certainly not one of the more prime tourist neighborhoods or destinations. Who cares? You've probably seen Notre Dame a thousand times.

Yes, I think you could walk to rue Mouffetard or Luxembourg Gardens, if you're feeling ambitious and the weather's nice. It's certainly not a quick jaunt out the front door, though.
I'd think it would take close to an hour to walk to the Ile St. Louis; you could probably reach the lower end of the 6eme arrondiement in 20 minutes or so; probably closer to 35-45 minutes to reach the area around St. Germain, Deux Magots, etc.

But still--it's Paris!! Have a wonderful visit and please write a report about your experiences in this neighborhood when you return.

Merci, merci, merci.... I am starting to come alive again and the neighborhood, as far out as it is, sounds wonderful. The apartment is across the street from one of our favorite (blush) funky places to shop ... Monoprix. I was afraid that we would be isolated an would have to take the Metro everywhere. Such a relief, even after checking the Paris Plan, to know that things are walkable.

Underhill or Allison do you by chance have the phone number or address of A Petit Marguery? If not, it's time for me to dig out my books and started planning things and I'm sure that it is listed in one of the many, many, too many, books that I have.

We hope do some of the things that have been on our wanna do list for years - Andre Citroen Park, Commando Nissim, the tower as late at night as possible, cocktails at Cafe Georges at Sunset (highly recommended by a friend), Buttes Chaumont, and see the marionettes in Luxumbourg Gardens - for the 5th or 6th time. We love that show and really enjoy seeing the excited 3-4 year old audience screaming at the puppets.

We also like to use our metro/bs passes and get off of the bus anywhere we want, wander around, get back on the bus and do it over and over.

Thank all you for 'waking me up', I've missed Paris so.

Nina

Le Petit Marguery
9, bd de Port-Royal
01 43 31 58 59

Pardon the above typos, in my excitement, I hit 'post' or maybe the Fodor Gods thought that I had said enough.

One thing about this trip will be very very different for us. For lack of a better word, we are foodies. We like most of you, plan our trips around restaurants, often traveling great distances for a special meal, both in and out of the City.

I was told a seven months ago that I have Diabetes. I went into panic mode (not uncommon for me) but in a short time with medicine and diet, I was able to control it. One BIG advantage ... I know weigh what is on my driver's license!

I have been afraid to eat out unless absolutely necessary (very little self control) and this trip, almost a month in duation, will be a real test.

I know the French, and know that it is next to impossible to change a Formula meal or plate. Now that has become my problem - not their's! And all those desserts, patisseries, bakeries, street crepes, etc... hard to walk down the block without stuffing my face.

That's the main reason that I haven't asked for restaurant recommendations in the area - I know plenty everywhere else! BUT, I will make an exception with Au Petit Marguery - afterall you went to so much trouble to recommend it and it is soooo close to the apartment.
I'm only doing it for you guys ... not me! ;-)

The prix fixe menu has about a dozen choices for each of 3 courses. The first two--you could have salad and fish--should pose no problem. Dessert...I don't know. There might be fresh fruit. Ask.

There is usually fromage (w/o bread of course) for dessert as an option...less sugar than the fruit I'd think. Or just skip right to the caf&eacute; (bring your own splenda packet)

Isn't one of the bric-a-brac flea markets down in that area somewhere?

Sounds wonderful. Don't forget to report back s.v.p!

I am sure there are a number of vegetarian restaurants as well...check a current copy of Zagats... Not to mention the beautiful fruits and veggies at the markets! Perhaps a Mediterranean-style cuisine would suit your new food plan..?
Check for Patrick's posts - I recall him mentioning that he is diabetic (if not him, there is someone who posted in recent times).

Hi Nina66! I've stayed at the Hotel Carofftel Gobelins on Ave. des Gobelins near Rue Mouffetard. It is a very nice area, quiet, near metro stations, full of restaurants, markets (Rue de Monge has a good one). It is also safe; my friend and I walked back to the hotel late at night with no problems. Enjoy!

Several years ago, dear friends did a house swap with a french family whose flat was not far from Gobelins and Rue Mouffetard. I visited and found the location to be wonderful. The Rue Mouffetard had fabuolous cheese, wine and vegetable shops that we would patronize and use to stock the fridge. That might be one way of controlling your diet and enjoying the neigborhood just like the locals. This location won't disappoint, I assure you.

If you actually decide to stay in this area, I would recomand a visit to the rarely if ever mentionned here &quot;butte aux cailles&quot; neighborhood, around the street going by the same name, which has a &quot;province town&quot; feeling to it and a number of restaurants.

I'm not afraid that I won't be able to find suitable food, or that I'll starve to death, especially in Paris. My problem is strictly a matter of willpower, or lack of same.

I'm thinking of this as a personal challenge, not an insurmountable obstacle. I think I can, I think I can....

I know this part of Paris quite well and I like it a lot. It's certainly within walking distance of the fun parts of the 5th arrondissement, but you're still out of all the touristy hustle and bustle. (I'm not really sure why Travelnut would say that it's not that near rue Monge seeing as that road turns into avenue des Gobelins).
It's an easy walk to the Jardin des Plantes and the Mouffetard area, and the Ile St Louis is certainly no more than a half hour walk at the most (unless you walk uncommonly slowly). You're also not far from the Institut du Monde Arabe which has some very interesting exhibitions from time to time. The Paris mosque is also nearby, as are the gorgeous Moorish tea-rooms and hammam.

In the other direction, as clairobscur says, there's the Butte aux Cailles area which is definitely worth a stroll around.
I certainly wouldn't hesitate to stay in this part of Paris. Hope you have a good time!!

Marty, on the 5th arrondissement side of the avenue des Gobelins, is one of my favorite brasseries in Paris, with vintage 1930s decor and of course excellent food.

Av des Gobelins is one of the few remaining &quot;cinema avenues&quot; away from the classic Quartier latin and Champs Elys&eacute;es theaters. The ones on the Place d'italie end are not particularly attractive, but l'Escurial, on bd Arago, is a great 1920s art movie theater, with VO movies shown. Bd Arago BTW is an interesting place to explore, with great little restaurants, especially the one at the intersection of rue de la Glaci&egrave;re, quite a trendy decor (sorry I don't remember its name). Be sure to visit the Cit&eacute; fleurie, a turn of the century artist village with charming little houses that have escaped the developers' bulldozers. And you'll be next to La Sant&eacute;, Paris's main prison, so lots of police and security around!

Transport wise, Gobelins station is perfectly suitable and line 7 meanders throughout most of Paris. But don't overlook bus 91, Bastille-Montparnasse, that now has its own dedicated corridor &agrave; la Curitiba in Brazil, and is as efficient as the m&eacute;tro.

Nina, I love this area. It is off the tourist path but close enough to the action. The area is upscale and beautiful. Be sure to check out Hediards which is just down the street from you. There is a little market right in front of the church off of Rue Daubenton from time to time. Up the street from you is Martys which has an amazing 1930's decor: http://www.marty-restaurant.com/ . I havent eaten there but have wanted to. It has great eye appeal at anyrate.

A somewhat hidden attraction of the neighborhood is the Chateau de la Reine Blanche on 12 rue Berbier du Metz. This is a small street off of the Avenue des Gobelins. Be sure to walk around the entire Chateau which requires you going around &quot;the block&quot; if you will. There are several views through gates as it is nestled amoung bldgs. On the main gate you will find tour days and hours. I think they are only in French however. It was built in the 1500s in the renaissance style not unlike the cluny museum. It has very recently been restored.

A little further off but in the Butte aux Cailles area mentioned by another poster is the Cit&eacute; Daviel, also known as la Petite Alsace, 7 rue Daviel; M&eacute;tro: Glaci&egrave;re or Corvisart. Walk through an arched doorway and you will find yourself in a courtyard surrounded by brick and stone cottages. There are 40 small homes built in 1912 for Parisian working families. It is a most unusual site in the middle of the city.

If you are interested in the Gobelins factory mentioned by another poster, here is a bit more info:

http://www.monum.fr/visitez/decouvri...g=en#ouverture

These are all somewhat second tier attractions but if you have already seen the large monuments, these are lots of fun. Plus it is a blast discovering your own neighborhood. I think the location of your apartment is outstanding. I am a resident of Paris and if I were recommending a location for someone to stay I would not hesitate to recommend that neighborhood.

Hmm that link didnt work... here try this:

http://tinyurl.com/bhess

To be a little more precise about the location of the Chateau de la Reine Blanche: It surronded by Rue des Gobelins, Rue Gustave Geffroy and Rue Berbier.

I am watching this post with a bit of trepidation wondering if the Underhill posting here is the same Underhill that I know and love. MY Underhill would never mention the Au Petit Maguery without the words MUSHROOMS in the same breath.Also note that Scallops Ravioli is another featured starter and individual souffles are available for desert if ordered at the start. All of these with a slight premium to the cost of the dinner.

Bigal, I laughed when I read &quot;individual&quot; souffles: my Grand Marnier souffle was included with the meal, and could have served 3 people easily! I barely touched it after my veal ragnons (spelling?), and THEN they brought the cookie plate!

What allisonm said.

Well Nina? Sounds like a terrific plan! AAAAAhhh... how I will envy you this experience... I am printing the thread - someday to stay in Paris for a longer time...

Have the best time.

I am overwhelmed with the things that you have suggested. That is exactly what I was looking for. We want to meander the neighborhood and see what we may. I've been to the Gobelins Factory and loved it, so we probably won't return this trip. Everything else is new to us.

Fodorites are like 'having a friend in the business'.

Yes, I promise a trip report, sometime in mid-October.


Nina

P.S. The cinema info is particularly interesting. On longer stays, we always go to the movies a few times. Sometimes we see older or art movies and other times we catch up on the newer American films (VO) that we never seem to have time to see here.

We appreciate the French audiences, they are quiet, not like at home. We usually go along St. Germain or in the Bastille, but your suggestions are close to 'home' and the theaters themselves sound interesting.

Champions (sp), Underhill you're my kind of eater.

I recommend purchasing Thirza Vallois' book &quot;Around and About Paris&quot;, volume three, for some good historic background, plus a few walking tours of the neighborhood that will take you from the Butte aux Cailles to such places as the Cite Florale, Alsatian village, etc.

If you decide to go for a recent american movie, check out the Gaumont Grand Ecran located on Place d'Italie. It is inside the building with the modern glass facade. You cant miss it. It has very comfortable seats along with great sound and one of the largest screens in paris.

Nina... I'm looking forward to exploring &quot;your&quot; Paris neighborhood. I've been spending my time checking out places to see in the double digit neighborhoods. The 13th comes high on the list of places to explore. I also recommend Thirza Vallois' book &quot;Around and About Paris&quot;, volume three.

We have an apartment reserved in the 16th, in May 2006. I think that it will be wonderful to have an apartment outside the single digit areas and then be able to go &quot;home&quot; to a bit of quiet.

Our apartment owner said that the apartment is on the edge of the 5th, so it's no double digit this time. We have stayed in the 14th on another trip.

We found a _fabulous_ looking apartment in the 16th on VRBO, but unfortunately our dates were not available. It is on the top of our list for our next trip.

I will be going to the bookstore in the next few days and will try to find Around and About Paris. Amazon has all three volumes.

Nina: Would you divulge the website or internet address of your apartment. We are going in March 2006. We always stay in the Marais, but I am thinking of a change.

Opaldog - You have to remember that we only know this apartment by the website and the info received from the owner, an American, who incidently is charming and very easy to deal with.

After _asking_, I found out that the apartment is fairly small, but seems to contain everything that we need. I have no other knowledge of it.

We have rented about ten apartments in Paris, and some were OK, some mediocre, and some were the worst dumps we've ever seen. These dumps were all in the best parts of Paris - Quai Bourbon on St. Louis, Rue Dauphine and the worst one of all, Rue Jacob right by Pl. de Furstenberg. Disgusting would actually be a compliment for these places.

As anyone who has ever rented anywhere, websites, photographs, owners' bragging (read - out and out lies), mean absolutely nothing.

I deliberately did not ask if anyone here knew this apartment, because it was such a last mintute rush rush deal and even through I did a lot of research and looked at many many apartments, this one was the first one that came through with our tentative dates so that we could coordinate and make flight reservations at a very busy time of the year.

Here goes -- if anyone has personal knowledge of the apartment, I guess (?) that I want to know.

Keeping my fingers crossed:

http://www.lacigaleparis.com/HargroveApt.html

I'll let you know when I do my trip report.

Note that the name of the restaurant changed about a year ago to AU Petit Marguery.

And yes, Bigal (aha! now I know who you are), the saut&eacute;ed wood mushrooms with garlic and parsley are not to be missed when dining at Au Petit Marguery. Sigh.