Looking for reviews of this hotel and the area in which it is located...this would be during the 3rd week in october.

Are you referring to the Palacio de Luces outside of Lastres on the Asturian coast? If so, it's a new and simply beautiful property just a km outside of this charming fishing village between Villaviciosa and Ribadesella, mid-coast.

We got a complete tour of the facilities last July, had drinks there but unfortunately didn't have time for a meal by the former chef of Oviedo's Trascorrales in the lovely dining room.

The rooms are exceptionally spacious with every possible amenity. I highly recommend the hotel as a first class base to explore the Asturian coast and inland. It's not too far from Cangas de Onís on the western side of gorgeous Picos de Europa.

The Autovía del Cantábrico (motorway) is finished in that section, so driving from there to Ribadesella or down to Cangas de Onís takes no time at all.

Maribel...I think you have me sold on this property...thank you so much. I feel much better having finally made a decision!

pgoody,
If you do decide to stay, although the dining is great there at the Palacio, we also discovered a new favorite spot in the village of Lastres for "new Asturian cuisine" from an up-and-coming chef, who's definitely one to watch. The restaurant is tiny, so one should have reservations on holidays or wkds. It's called "El Barrigón de Bertín".
Phone: 985 85 04 45

The owner of the Hotel Aldama Golf outside Llanes recommended it to us, and it's a winner.

www.elbarrigondebertin.com

Also don't forget to stop at Ribadesella, my very favorite Asturian coastal town (and we've pretty much explored them all!)

It has a great vibe to it, a pretty beach, a district of lovely turn-of-the-century "indiano" mansions (one a reconverted hotel), lots of "chigres", places to stop for a glass or bottle of cider, and two terrific gourmet shops, across the street from each other-first, the amazing chocolate shop, "Bombonería Chocolates" (you'll drool at the window) and the excellent gourmet deli, "Aramburu" with nice little cafe upstairs and take-out items for a fabulous picnic.

Other fishing villages worthy of exploration or just a peek:
Tazones,

tiny, terraced Cudillero, which reminds me of a Cinque Terre town minus the dramatic drop to the sea,

Puerto de Vega,

the lighthouse out at Cabo Vidio,

Llanes and the drive from neighboring Cué to Andrín-drive up to the viewpoint, following sign to "mirador", above Playa Ballota

San Vicente de la Barquera,

Comillas, where you'll find El Capricho, a work of Gaudí,

and of course, medieval Santillana del Mar (now overrun with tourists, the reason I didn't recommend a 3 day stay at the Parador Gil Blas there) for a stroll through the ancient streets and visit to the Colegiata and cloister.
Although the Caves of Altamira outside of Santillana are forever now off limits to tourists, you can visit the neo-caves, the replica.
If you've been to Lascaux II, you'll be a bit disappointed, as they're not as authentically done, but the adjacent museum is worth your while. In mid-Oct. on weekdays you shouldn't need advance tickets, but they can be purchased at
http://tinyurl.com/6pdlzt

Last but not least, the Cantabrian capital of Santander and lovely, expansive El Sardinero beach (where we saw a surfer in wet suit hitting the waves in Nov.)

Just a few touring ideas...

Maribel, so glad to hear your endorsement of Ribadesella. That's where we decided to book for two nights to explore that area. I found the hotel I think you're speaking of--Villa Rosario--on the Asturian hotel website you recommended in response to one of my questions--though they also have their own site at www.hotelvillarosario.com The place looks fantastic and I'm very excited to stay there.

I have, however, developed a real problem trying to get two other hotels from that site to respond to me--Palacete de Penalba and Pleamar. I need to book one night in that area (unfortunately a Saturday, and I'm wondering if it's the one night out of the weekend issue that's resulting in a lack of interest. I started with Palacete and when I couldn't get a response from them via either the Asturianas site or their own, I went to Pleamar, also inquiring on both the Asurianas site and their own website. No response from them either. I've sent my messages twice to both places--nothing. Do you have a good suggestion for an alternative place in that area--the Parador in Ribadeo? others? or should we just push on from Ribadesella all the way to Ferrol and give up on that area?

Hi Julie,
Hope you had a wonderful time in Paris!!

Yes, the Villa de Rosario is the indiano mansion that I was referring to in Ribadesella. It's right on that lovely beach I mentioned. Charming.

I don't understand why Palacete Peñalaba or Pleamar didn't respond. They might require a 2 night minimum on wkds., but that's no excuse for not responding.

Speaking of no response... I recommended the cute Casa do Castelo de Andrade in the Fragas del Eume Nature Park (Galicia, near El Ferrol) to bothenavigator, and the owner, Alberto, never responded. Go figure....

We just visited Palacete Peñalba and the Pleamar last July. Hmmm....
Don't push on to rather ugly El Ferrol. There are far nicer paradors.

I think the *perfect* alternative for you will be right across the estuary from Palacete Peñalba at the Parador de Ribadeo on the Galicia side. From your estuary view Parador room, you'll see it on the Asturian side. The Parador of Ribadeo has been recently refurbished, and I highly recommend it. Very comfy. We stopped in on that same trip, and I think you'll really like it.

The Ribadeo Parador is running a special for the month of June-a limited number of double rooms available every day of the month for 90 euros.

See the offer at www.parador.es

Thanks again Maribel. Yes, I'll book us at the Ribadeo Parador on your recommendation. I thought that would be best from a navigational viewpoint but was a bit turned off by the pictures of the rather dreary, empty looking front yard of the place--and a bit more compelled by the position of the Ferrol parador on a main square with lots of activity. Just goes to show how much we can be influenced by a couple of pictures of a place. Thanks for the tip on the good June deals.

Had a wonderful time in Paris and am preparing a report--mostly dining-- to post soon I hope. We leave again May 4 for another 4 days there and then 2 in the Loire, taking our daughter and SIL before they have their expected twins.

Again, thanks for your advice on the parador. Pgoody, if you can't get into Palacio de Luces, it looks like you might also want to consider Hotel Villa Rosario in Ribadesella. It looks fantastic and if Maribel thinks it good, it must be. Thanks for letting me chime into your thread. I'll post after we're there in June and hopefully provide your some useful info also.

pgoody,
I forgot to mention another really lovely spot for you to stop and take a stroll on the coast, on the Galician side, Lugo province, about 10 km. west of Ribadeo and the Asturian border:

Praia As Catedrais (Cathedral Beach)-very famous for its beautiful natural rock formations and caverns.
A must see!
Here's a video:
http://tinyurl.com/4fsh2e

Julie,
Yes, the front lawn of the Parador at Ribadeo won't win any design awards, and from the street it does look a little motel like, once inside you'll be much more impressed. The rooms face the estuary, the Ría del Eo, and look over to neighboring Figueras del Mar. (Fodor's says room 208 has the prettiest views, BTW).

The city of El Ferrol, on the other hand, is just not a very enticing place at all, I don't think.

I've been thinking about the Palacete Peñalba. If you do still have a longing to stay there, I would give them a call at (34) 985 636 125.
Sometimes properties in the north just don't respond to emails-I haven't a clue why, but this has happened to us on more than one occasion.

What I do like about the 1912 built palacete is its wonderful Modernista-Art Nouveau architecture by a disciple of Gaudí and its very private setting in a park with formal English gardens. Very peaceful. But because it's very much a "period piece" (and declared a National Artistic Monument), it might not appeal to those who don't like that architectural period (I know, though, that you do). While those who love Art Nouveau will feel like they're taking a romantic step back in time, to others it may appear kitsch.
(and there's no a/c)
The rooms in the smaller Cotarelo building are said to be the nicest, completely redecorated, with the prettiest views, so the nice lady desk manager told us.

After touring the hotel we went down to the pier at tiny Figueras to have a seafood lunch at the hotel's nautical themed Restaurante Peñalba right at the dock. We met the mother who runs the dining room and her son who returned from NY to take the reigns of the kitchen.
It's quite good (excellent wine list), so you might consider dinner there, even if you stay at the Ribadeo Parador, right across the bridge.

Here's a NY Times article about the hotel and the area:
http://tinyurl.com/52nlo5

Wed. is market day in Ribadeo. There's a specialty gourmet shop there, A Aldea de Manín, on the main shopping street, Rodríguez Murias 3 that we like a lot:

About the Villa Rosario,
The husband and wife team who own the Barrigón de Bertín restaurant in Lastres came there from the Villa Rosario, he as the chef, she as the front desk manager. (He did a stint at El Bulli). Villa Rosario is another former "indiano" mansion but whose rooms have been completely redone in ultra modern style. Before it was opened, we stayed almost next door in a lovely indiano mansion that used to belong to the Casonas Asturianas before it was sold and became once again a private home. The street is filled with these turn-of-the-century mansions, all right on the beach. The Villa Rosario has its own dedicated parking lot across the street (very important in Ribadesella during the summer).

And don't miss that fantastic gourmet shop, Aramburu on the Gran Vía and the "Bombonería Chocolate" shop while strolling around Ribadesella!

Maribel, can't thank you enough. We managed to book at Parador Ribadeo (after some ridiculous problem with our credit card company that knew we were headed for Paris next week but wouldn't store info at the same time for a second trip in June to Spain--how to conquer that problem is next on our list) but will try to do a meal at Palacete Penalba so we can take in the building. Excited to hear about the possibility for interesting food in Ribadesella along with the interesting architecture. I'm not sure when I've been more excited about an upcoming trip. I've all but declared that Barcelona has become my new Paris. Could be that Spain will become my new France/Italy. Can't wait to check out the possibility.

BTW just got my packet of literature from the Rioja tourism group. Fantastic. Really classy stuff. I'm most taken by the brochure entitled The Way of St. James through the Vineyards. It brought to mind pilgrims on their knees squishing grapes and toasting those passing them by--sort of sybaritic ascetics.

pgoody,
Another little driving detour that is a "must see" right off the coastal road-the lookout point, "Mirador del Fito", south from the A8 on the AS 260 road down to Arriondas (Parres). Just truly spectacular views there of the Sueve and the Picos de Europa. And next to the viewpoint you may see a few grazing asturcones, the Asturian ponies that run freely up there in the Sierra del Sueve.


Hi Julie,
I do hope that Spain will become your new France/Italy! It certainly has become mine.

About the dining and the Palacete Peñalba-their restaurant is actually not on the hotel grounds but instead down at the pier. We went first to see the property (for business), had our tour then went down to the port area of the tiny village for lunch at the Restaurante Peñalba, where we met Mom and chef son. The dining area we saw in the hotel, I believe, is used for weddings/banquets.

In addition to the conservatory restaurant of the Villa Rosario and the upstairs café of the gourmet emporium, Aramburu, in Ribadesella you have

1. numerous "chigres" (cider bars) that serve tapas & cheeses right on the waterfront

2. a tapas and wine bar with outside seating, "La Terraza" on López Muñiz

3. a cider/grill that locals love, called "La Parrilla" which is on Palacio Valdés 33 (not much to look at on the outside but the best, freshest grilled fish you can find-informal atmosphere)

4. "La Casa del Río", a little white mansion, next to the Jardín de Eugenia hotel, that serves a nice €22 set menu, also popular with locals, on the same road as La Parilla but other side of the street

5. a local gourmet temple, "La Huertona", 2 km. outside of town on the road that goes past the Tito Bustillo pre-historic caves. It's considered one of Asturias' best. A reconverted cider house in the country with lovely views. Closes Mon. night, all day Tues.
Husband and wife team; wife is the chef. Nice desserts like puff pastry filled with rice pudding ice cream. Degustation menu runs €50. 1 Campsa Guide sol (equivalent to 1 Michelin star). Has been written up in Food & Wine in an article about dining around Asturias with famed native son chef, José Andrés. See some photos here:

www.ribadesella.com/lahuertona/

6. A new one we haven't tried, that looks very enticing, "El Arbidel".

www.arbidel.com

Plenty of great dining in Asturias, right behind the Basque Country and Catalunya! If you see them on the menu, try the "frixuelos" for dessert, a type of Asturian (and Galician) crepe.

I'm glad to know you've received your Rioja packet. The tourist board there does an excellent job with their brochures.

Again, thanks so much. We'll try to try El Arbidel and report back--as well as some of the others you recommend. We know we can't go wrong with one of your recs--at least we sure didn't in Barcelona. I'm getting so excited about this upcoming Spain trip, I forget from time to time that I have Paris to look forward to before I get there. Thanks for all your kind help and all the time you've taken to provide it.

Maribel,
Thanks so much for all of your suggestions. They all sound amazing. We will be staying in Asturias for 3 nights but only 2 full days before we move on to Bilbao and San Sebastian. Out of all the places you have mentioned what do you think would be the best 2-day itinerary?

Thanks for putting in the time to help out.

Pam

Hi Pam,
Have you booked at the Palacio de Luces? The reason I ask is that my recommendations for 2 days of touring will depend on where you'll be based-don't want to send you too far away from your base.

Do you plan to drive directly from your Asturias base to Bilbao? Would you like an idea or two for quick stops along the way?

Maribel, thanks for getting back to me so quickly. Yes, we have the Palacio de Luces booked. We are driving there from Santiago de Compostela and yes we are driving to Bilbao from there. Of course I would welcome some stops along the way, as well as an itinerary for our stay in Asturias.

Thanks again,
Pam

Hi Pam,
For your drive from Santiago de Compostela to Lastres (Palacio de Luces), Asturias:

I would take the quick AP 9 to the E 70 through Villalba and Mondoñedo up to the coast at Castropol (Asturias). Then along the coastal route, I'd make a first stop in the picturesque seaside town of Tapia de Casariego.

Then continuing east, right before Navia, I'd take a short detour southto see the fascinating Celtic castro settlement at Coaña (but not on Mon. when it's closed). Open Tues.-Fri. from 11-3 and Sat./Sun. from 11-1, 4-5 only. It's signposted from the highway.


Then if it's lunch time, I'd head to the tiny but picturesque fishing village of Puerto de Vega. We recently had delicious tapas at the bar of Taberna Viavélez (famous chef Paco Ron has moved on to Madrid, but the cuisine is still noteworthy).

I just don't find Luarca as picturesque anymore as many other coastal Asturian towns, and it's always so crowded that easy parking is virtually impossible, but you should see the cemetary (yes, really) with terrific sea views. It's best accessed by taking the 2nd (furthest) exit off the A8 which will take you back east to the top of the town for some great photo ops.

Then on to cute Cudillero, which reminds Julie and me of a Cinque Terre town, clinging precipitously to the hillside, with steeply terraced fishermen's houses and lots of bars/restaurants surroundig the pier.
Lunch here could be at the lovely Casona del Pío, housed in a former canning factory, a pretty stone building just behind the pier, across from the black pottery store. Or next door at the two story El Ancla (blue awning). Their "bocartes" (little fried anchovies) are delicious.

www.cudillero.org

Id skip industrial Avilés and even Gijón, since this is a long drive from Santiago, and head straight for Lastres-Luces so that you can enjoy the Palacio. If you have time later on, you could make the short drive over to the tiny, quintessential fishing hamlet of Tazones, where everyone comes on Sun. to hear the bagpipers and dine at the many seafood restaurants at the pier after swimming at pretty Rodiles beach.
There are dinosaur tracks (icnitas) near Tazones.

Now, for your two touring days based at the Palacio:

Day 1:
down to the extraordinarily scenic Picos de Europa (take the AS 260 south). A "must stop" at the Mirador de Fito for its commanding views of the Sierra del Sueve to the right and Picos to the left. You'll see the semi-wild asturcón ponies grazing below the lookout tower. What amazing vistas!
Really ugly Arriondas is quite skip-able (unless you want to have lunch deep in the country at Casa Marcial, which is fabulous, BTW). Casa Marcial can be accessed from the AS 260 (quite the drive!!) or more easily by taking a right in Arriondas, coming from Cangas towards La Salgar-watch for the signs.
www.casamarcial.com

On to Cangas de Onís, the market town (market day is Sun.), then on to the Shrine of Covadonga, where the Christian Re Conquest began with warrior Pelayo battling back the Moors.
If time and more importantly, weather permits and your driver willing, I'd make the drive up to the Lakes of Enol and Ercina. But if it's foggy this can be a while knuckle experience. But there are Alsa buses that transport you up from the Basilica in Covadonga. This drive needs to be taken early, as you don't want to meet a big Alsa bus on a curve on this narrow road heading back down! So, if you want to see the lakes, go straight to Covadonga then hit the rest on your drive back to Lastres. There's actually a very atmospheric little place up at Lake Enol for tapas or a full meal-El Casín.

Then you can continue the spectacular drive on the AS 114 as far as time and interest allow.

Another unforgettable adventure would be to take the (very pricey at €17.42 r.t) funicular up to the mountain hamlet of Bulnes, the only Spanish village without road access. The funi departs from Poncebos. But if it's rainy, the ticket seller will tell you not to bother. See the schedule here:

http://tinyurl.com/6l7bjy

Other lunch spots:
Cangas de Onís: Los Arcos
Arenas de Cabrales: La Panera
Peñamellera Alta: Casa Julián
(right on road at the edge of the River Cares, where Franco used to take his naps after trout fishing).
www.casajulian.com


Day 2:
coastal drive east as far as the Cantabrian border, with lots of detours from the A8, Autovía del Cantábrico.

First stop: Ribadesella. Unfortunately the prehistoric Caves of Tito Bustillo close Sept. 8 but there's plenty of interest for a morning's walk around. Market day is Wed.

We just visited after Julie and stopped again at our favorite gourmet shops, Aramburu, Chocolate and Veguina. We also found new Llantares del Mar, a great place for tapas, a drink or dining facing the water. Make sure to walk over to the "aristocratic" section of town that runs along the Santa Marina beach to see the beautiful "indiano" mansions, one of which is the Villa Rosario, where Julie stayed.

From Ribadesella take the "back road" AS 263.

Next stop, Llanes, with its Cubos de la Memoria-brightly painted cement blocks next to the breakwater-work of Agustín Ibarrola, author of the Painted Forest of Oma near Gernika. Easy parking in the lot next to the Hotel Hacienda de don Juan. Walk around the town, stopping in at the Basílica de Santa María.

Lunch spot in Llanes:
La Marina down at the Llanes pier
www.marisqueriamarina.es

From Llanes to Ribadeva at the border, the A8 isn't finished, and it's slow going.

If you speak Spanish and have any interest in learning more about the "indianos" (or have Spanish ancestry from the north), you'd enjoy visiting the Archivo de Indianos, housed in an extraordinary indiano mansion in Colombres. The village of Colombres with its several ornate mansions makes a great photo op itself (along with the another "indiano" mansion filled town of SOMADO, off the A8 btw Cudillero & Muros, on the western coast).

You could press on to the first Cantabrian coastal town, very picturesque, San Vicente de la Barquera. It's quite small so not much to see except a walk up to the 13th castle (open to the public) and the church. We like dining at La Marinera on the main drag, and so did Julie.

If you have any interest in caves, there's a spectacular one, El Soplao, exit off the A8, deep in the Val de San Vicente (a particularly beautiful spot). The drive up to the caves, i the Herrerás area, makes the detour worth it alone. Quite amazing and really well done. You start the tour via choo-choo, then walk on a wide, flat, well-illuminated path. One hr. guided tours in Spanish only (€9.50), but it's worth it just to see the astonishing stalactites, stalagmites and eccentric formations.
Open Mon.-Fri. from 8-10
Sat. from 10-10
Sun. from 9-3
(we went without reservations in Nov. and got right in)
www.soplao.es

Another possibility for day 2:
A drive down the quick A 64 to the capital, Oviedo, a cosmopolitan, pretty city with atmospheric Old Quarter. Do a search for Oviedo and you'll get lots of touring info, especially from Ireynold. The tiny pre-Romanesque churches of San Miguel de Lillo and Santa María del Naranco high above the city are jewels, as is the larger San Julián de los Prados in town. Beatiful urban park-Campo San Francisco, interesting cathedral-museum and fine Museum of Fine Arts, plus fabulous dining (we love La Corrada del Obispo) and lively cider houses on Calle Gascona.


If you choose a day trip to Oviedo, you could make a quick stop or two in one of the above-mentioned three,
Ribadesella, Llanes or San Vicente de la Barquera on the long drive to Bilbao.
Closer to Bilbao in Cantabria, Castro Urdiales does have an atmospheric old quarter and fine gothic church, Sta María de la Asunción, but it's become a virtual suburb of Bilbao. Ditto to the concrete jungle high rises of Laredo (which does have a pretty, expansive beach).

On the long drive from Lastres to Bilbao some might suggest just one detour:
to Santander (Puerto Chico area) & El Sardinero beach, a Belle Epoque royal summer retreat.
But the city really deserves an overnight. To do it justice takes the whole day, which you don't have.
So I'd save one capital city, either Oviedo or Santander or even both when you have a full day to dedicate to them.

In fact, Cantabria itself deserves another trip! There's the Cantabrian side of stunning Picos de Europa, from sinuous La Hermida gorge to Potes to the cable car at Fuente Dé to be explored.

There's just so much of beauty both on the coast and inland in Asturias and Cantabria to fill weeks! So, save some for a future visit!

And be sure to read Julie's great trip report: "17 Glorious Days in Northern Spain"!

And don't forget to purchase the Michelin regional map 572 of Cantabria/Asturias. A godsend!

Maribel,

Thank you so much for all of your help! I will look at everything you sent and figure out time wise what we can see. I'll be sure to read Julie's report.

Pam

again.. GREAT recommendatins i hope to use one day! Thanks, maribel.