PDX's potential itinerary So. Spain
Jan 28th, 2009, 04:06 PM
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PDX's potential itinerary So. Spain
Would you review this 10-day itinerary and give a little feedback where it needs tweaking and revising?
1. Granada, arrive evening
2. Granada, Alhambra
3. Baeza, mainly for Juanito's restaurant and hotel, plus the olive oil museum in Ubeda.
4. Mengibar, for the lovely Palacio hotel.
5. Mengibar, day trip Jaen.
6. Cordoba
7. Cordoba
8. Antequera, El Torcal and the asparagus season nearby.
9. & 10. at the coast near Malaga airport, hotel Tryp Guadalmar, cheap, gorge on seafood for two days and be lazy.
What do you think?
1. Granada, arrive evening
2. Granada, Alhambra
3. Baeza, mainly for Juanito's restaurant and hotel, plus the olive oil museum in Ubeda.
4. Mengibar, for the lovely Palacio hotel.
5. Mengibar, day trip Jaen.
6. Cordoba
7. Cordoba
8. Antequera, El Torcal and the asparagus season nearby.
9. & 10. at the coast near Malaga airport, hotel Tryp Guadalmar, cheap, gorge on seafood for two days and be lazy.
What do you think?
Jan 28th, 2009, 05:00 PM
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Hi pdx,
I remember your thread awhile back and your wanting on this trip to "waddle in olive oil", following the "Ruta del Aceite", and your planned loop- Málaga, Granada, Jaén, Córdoba, Málaga.
I really like the look of the Palacio de Mengibar, just north of Jaén-looks like a great place to spend 2 nights.
I'm assuming you'll have a car?
If so, because you said on your other thread that this would be somewhat of a culinary adventure, I'd do the Córdoba to Antequera drive the indirect way rather than straight down the A33 since it's a short distance. In other words, I'd travel a bit on the Ruta del Legado Andalusí.
I'd drive from Córdoba on the N 432 to Baena, the Andalusian olive oil capital (along with Jaén) to tour the Museo del Olivar y Aceite and try to visit the 18th century almazara on the Núñez de Prado estate, the area's most prestigious producer.
www.musedelaceite.com
http://tinyurl.com/by6fnc
http://tinyurl.com/c5k2zb
Then I'd drive continue from Baena to Antequera on the road (A33) through the scenic Subbética to Priego de Córdoba, because PdeC is such a highly picturesque, charming town with a beautiful belvedere, the Balcón del Adarve, and atmospheric whitewashed ancient arab quarter, the Barrio de la Villa, quite unspoiled by mass tourism. I just think PdeC is a real gem.
www.turismodepriego.com
I'd make this my late lunch stop, then on down to Antequera.
I remember your thread awhile back and your wanting on this trip to "waddle in olive oil", following the "Ruta del Aceite", and your planned loop- Málaga, Granada, Jaén, Córdoba, Málaga.
I really like the look of the Palacio de Mengibar, just north of Jaén-looks like a great place to spend 2 nights.
I'm assuming you'll have a car?
If so, because you said on your other thread that this would be somewhat of a culinary adventure, I'd do the Córdoba to Antequera drive the indirect way rather than straight down the A33 since it's a short distance. In other words, I'd travel a bit on the Ruta del Legado Andalusí.
I'd drive from Córdoba on the N 432 to Baena, the Andalusian olive oil capital (along with Jaén) to tour the Museo del Olivar y Aceite and try to visit the 18th century almazara on the Núñez de Prado estate, the area's most prestigious producer.
www.musedelaceite.com
http://tinyurl.com/by6fnc
http://tinyurl.com/c5k2zb
Then I'd drive continue from Baena to Antequera on the road (A33) through the scenic Subbética to Priego de Córdoba, because PdeC is such a highly picturesque, charming town with a beautiful belvedere, the Balcón del Adarve, and atmospheric whitewashed ancient arab quarter, the Barrio de la Villa, quite unspoiled by mass tourism. I just think PdeC is a real gem.
www.turismodepriego.com
I'd make this my late lunch stop, then on down to Antequera.
Jan 28th, 2009, 05:16 PM
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Wallow, Maribel! I said wallow in olive oil! Not waddle, which will probably come later.
Hmmm, I was kind of avoiding Baena by going to the museum in Ubeda but adding in the Nunez de Prado estate and the scenic drive makes sense. Plus, now you thrown in PdeC with the 'ancient arab quarter' to distract me. I'll look it up.
Hmmm, I was kind of avoiding Baena by going to the museum in Ubeda but adding in the Nunez de Prado estate and the scenic drive makes sense. Plus, now you thrown in PdeC with the 'ancient arab quarter' to distract me. I'll look it up.
Jan 28th, 2009, 06:43 PM
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Sorry, sorry, sorry, pdx, I did mean "waLLow"! 
I'm just a really big fan of Priego de Córdoba and the Parque Natural de la Sierra de la Subbética. And the town is filled with lovely Baroque architecture, little mansions and churches.
We had a really nice meal in Priego at El Aljibe, in the downstairs cave dining room, recommended to me here on this board.
http://tinyurl.com/ahtzga
And I have in my notes that Casa del Monte on the Plaza de la Constitución in Baena is also a very good dining spot.
Zuheros is also one of the more picturesque perched villages in the Córdoba province, complete with fortress. It's featured in one of my guides, the Most Charming Villages of Spain.
It's only about 12 km. south of Baena.
http://tinyurl.com/bq3wp3
I'm just a really big fan of Priego de Córdoba and the Parque Natural de la Sierra de la Subbética. And the town is filled with lovely Baroque architecture, little mansions and churches.
We had a really nice meal in Priego at El Aljibe, in the downstairs cave dining room, recommended to me here on this board.
http://tinyurl.com/ahtzga
And I have in my notes that Casa del Monte on the Plaza de la Constitución in Baena is also a very good dining spot.
Zuheros is also one of the more picturesque perched villages in the Córdoba province, complete with fortress. It's featured in one of my guides, the Most Charming Villages of Spain.
It's only about 12 km. south of Baena.
http://tinyurl.com/bq3wp3
Jan 28th, 2009, 07:12 PM
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Hi pdx,
You probably have seen a really great rate at the Tryp Guadalmar (maybe around 60 euros?) and are happy with that,
but if you'd like to stay in the city of Málaga (a visit to the Picasso museum, great tapas bars and restaurants that josele can tell you about...)
the Room Mate Larios has a Sun.-Thurs. rate of 86 in March, and its sister the Room Mate Lola has a similar deal, Sun.-Thurs. for 75, which are good rates because they include free buffet breakfast and WiFi.
You probably have seen a really great rate at the Tryp Guadalmar (maybe around 60 euros?) and are happy with that,
but if you'd like to stay in the city of Málaga (a visit to the Picasso museum, great tapas bars and restaurants that josele can tell you about...)
the Room Mate Larios has a Sun.-Thurs. rate of 86 in March, and its sister the Room Mate Lola has a similar deal, Sun.-Thurs. for 75, which are good rates because they include free buffet breakfast and WiFi.
Jan 29th, 2009, 10:07 AM
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pdx,
Josele makes a good point about having more time in Ubeda, called the "jewel of the Spanish Renaissance". It's just packed with gorgeous noble mansions, religious and civil monuments of gold stone built in its 16th century glory days, and as the case in Baeza, many designs by the architect Andrés de Vandelvira. Both cities are Unesco sites.
See a photo gallery here:
www.ubeda.com
And if you like rustic pottery, when in Ubeda, you might like to visit the Museo Paco Tito ceramic atelier and shop. This craftsman and his family produce Ubeda's distinctive dark green glazed clay pottery. It's on Calle Valencia 22, in the potters' quarter, a whitewashed, flower-bedecked section of the town you'll want to see anyway. The potters here use the same clay and same techniques as their Renaissance ancestors.
www.pacotito.com
And in Baeza, there is a very nice shop, La Casa del Aceite, on the Paseo de la Constitución 9 where we made some olive oil purchases. They have a branch in Ubeda on Juan Ruiz González 19. You can see their products here:
www.casadelaceite.com
If you happen to do this itinerary at the end of March, you *may* be able to see a few of the famed Holy Week procession floats, or pasos, already on display in the churches of Baeza or Ubeda. Both cities are noted for their spectacular, somber Semana Santa celebrations, as well as Málaga's, which is at the top of my list yet to experience.
The Junta de Andalucía tourist board produces some excellent, extensive, info-packed guidebooks in English-the ones for exploring this area in detail are: "Route of the Caliphate" and "Route of the Nasrids".
And speaking of "aristocratic architecture", in Córdoba you might enjoy a visit to the Palacio del Marqués de Viana, outside the Jewish quarter, in the Santa Marina district. It boasts 14 archaded patios with fountains and is splendidly furnished with tapestries, porcelain, silverwork, embossed Cordoban leather. You can visit just the patios and gardens on your own, or join a guided tour (Spanish only) of the palace drawing rooms.
(closes on Sat. at 1 and all day Sun.)
The Turismo de Córdoba site has a very handy file, click on left, with all the Monuments and Museums opening hrs. and entry fees.
http://tinyurl.com/cesjb
Josele makes a good point about having more time in Ubeda, called the "jewel of the Spanish Renaissance". It's just packed with gorgeous noble mansions, religious and civil monuments of gold stone built in its 16th century glory days, and as the case in Baeza, many designs by the architect Andrés de Vandelvira. Both cities are Unesco sites.
See a photo gallery here:
www.ubeda.com
And if you like rustic pottery, when in Ubeda, you might like to visit the Museo Paco Tito ceramic atelier and shop. This craftsman and his family produce Ubeda's distinctive dark green glazed clay pottery. It's on Calle Valencia 22, in the potters' quarter, a whitewashed, flower-bedecked section of the town you'll want to see anyway. The potters here use the same clay and same techniques as their Renaissance ancestors.
www.pacotito.com
And in Baeza, there is a very nice shop, La Casa del Aceite, on the Paseo de la Constitución 9 where we made some olive oil purchases. They have a branch in Ubeda on Juan Ruiz González 19. You can see their products here:
www.casadelaceite.com
If you happen to do this itinerary at the end of March, you *may* be able to see a few of the famed Holy Week procession floats, or pasos, already on display in the churches of Baeza or Ubeda. Both cities are noted for their spectacular, somber Semana Santa celebrations, as well as Málaga's, which is at the top of my list yet to experience.
The Junta de Andalucía tourist board produces some excellent, extensive, info-packed guidebooks in English-the ones for exploring this area in detail are: "Route of the Caliphate" and "Route of the Nasrids".
And speaking of "aristocratic architecture", in Córdoba you might enjoy a visit to the Palacio del Marqués de Viana, outside the Jewish quarter, in the Santa Marina district. It boasts 14 archaded patios with fountains and is splendidly furnished with tapestries, porcelain, silverwork, embossed Cordoban leather. You can visit just the patios and gardens on your own, or join a guided tour (Spanish only) of the palace drawing rooms.
(closes on Sat. at 1 and all day Sun.)
The Turismo de Córdoba site has a very handy file, click on left, with all the Monuments and Museums opening hrs. and entry fees.
http://tinyurl.com/cesjb
Jan 29th, 2009, 10:57 AM
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pdx,
That's a hard decision because I do like your itinerary a lot. You'll probably want the two nights at the end to relax. And since I don't like one night stays in a row, I think your idea of 2 to explore Cordoba in depth is good, since on moving day 6 you may want to stop in Andújar and on moving day 8, there are those excursions to Zuheros, Priego or Baena, that I mentioned above.
viamichelin.com states it's only a 47 min. drive from Ubeda to Mengibar, so you could use a good portion of day 4 to explore Ubeda before moving on for your two nights at the Palacio (what a place- I want to go there tomorrow!).
I think a morning in Jaén is more than sufficient (with drive up to the castle and Parador on Santa Catalina hill), but I admit that I'm not as fond of it as a town-just doesn't seem to me as pretty, prosperous or harmonious in architecture as Baeza/Ubeda, and the downtown is an absolute maze where I always get lost!
That's a hard decision because I do like your itinerary a lot. You'll probably want the two nights at the end to relax. And since I don't like one night stays in a row, I think your idea of 2 to explore Cordoba in depth is good, since on moving day 6 you may want to stop in Andújar and on moving day 8, there are those excursions to Zuheros, Priego or Baena, that I mentioned above.
viamichelin.com states it's only a 47 min. drive from Ubeda to Mengibar, so you could use a good portion of day 4 to explore Ubeda before moving on for your two nights at the Palacio (what a place- I want to go there tomorrow!).
I think a morning in Jaén is more than sufficient (with drive up to the castle and Parador on Santa Catalina hill), but I admit that I'm not as fond of it as a town-just doesn't seem to me as pretty, prosperous or harmonious in architecture as Baeza/Ubeda, and the downtown is an absolute maze where I always get lost!
Jan 29th, 2009, 07:20 PM
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Maribel, you're a snake charmer. And I'm a snake. You say all the right words; no wonder you write a guide! Ceramics....my favorite souvenir. Don't come home without one.
Priego de Cordoba I will fit in, one way or another. I think I will leave Malaga for another day and leave us a day of rest before we head home.
Josele, I believe you are right about too much to see in the Ubeda/Baeza area and will devote more time there.
We will probably skip Jaen, though we do have an 'in' with a family olive oil producer in the area and might devote the time to that opportunity.
Sounds like a lovely trip, doesn't it? Absolutely indulgent.
Priego de Cordoba I will fit in, one way or another. I think I will leave Malaga for another day and leave us a day of rest before we head home.
Josele, I believe you are right about too much to see in the Ubeda/Baeza area and will devote more time there.
We will probably skip Jaen, though we do have an 'in' with a family olive oil producer in the area and might devote the time to that opportunity.
Sounds like a lovely trip, doesn't it? Absolutely indulgent.
Jan 29th, 2009, 07:26 PM
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Josele, if you are still there, would you know if there are a couple of good seafood restaurants near the Tryp Gualdamar? Especially family owned, hole-in-the-wall places. My hubby is a shrimp fiend and I would love for him to have a whole plate of shrimp to indulge in before we head home. He would be so happy.
Jan 30th, 2009, 11:05 AM
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Definitely the worst, as Sunday is crowd day, and on Mondays, fish restaurants are closed.
But not despair. I have found out several options.
El Caleño is the place you'll get the best shrimps (and the best of mostly anything else), but it is not near Guadalmar. If you are fond of shrimps and do not mind a splurge, here are the directions:
EL CALEÑO, at Playas de Pedregalejo. It is about 5 miles to the east from the city center. If by car, take the Malaga roundabout direction Almeria/Motril, exit 246 "El Palo-J.S. Elcano", and head to the sea and park and walk to the place. Better have someone explain to you on a city map. Parking may be tricky on a sunday. You can always take a taxi: to the Carreterita (Calle Bolivia) corner with Arroyo de los Pilones. There you walk to the beach (10 mtrs. and 50 mtrs left. All stuff is first class. Fried fish is cheap, but adding clams, mussels and shrimps, cigalas, lobster...shall raise the bill. (Do not be afraid to ask if budget is a problem, better avoid surprises). Another dish I like is Fish cooked under a salt crust: pescado a la sal. Tell the man (Chico is his name) I am sending you. Make your reservation (or ask the Hotel clerk do it in your name, they don’t speak fluent English) for the terrace at 952299148. Mandatory on a Sunday.
This man is a friend of mine, he recomends a place very near Guadalmar, by the sea walk: El Sardinal, the owner is Enrique, you can tell him that Chico from El Caleño is sending you. The shrimps shall not be as good.
Another place, near the Hotel (towards Malaga)is Marisquería Santa Paula, it has its own website www.marisqueriasantapaula.com with "how to get there" info. It is a very popular place, very big, (you cannot miss it on the corner, but it is not on the beach) but the fish is good, and it shall be open on mondays. Just phoned them, open daily from 7.00AM till midnight. (but again the shrimps shall not be as good as El Caleño's)
But not despair. I have found out several options.
El Caleño is the place you'll get the best shrimps (and the best of mostly anything else), but it is not near Guadalmar. If you are fond of shrimps and do not mind a splurge, here are the directions:
EL CALEÑO, at Playas de Pedregalejo. It is about 5 miles to the east from the city center. If by car, take the Malaga roundabout direction Almeria/Motril, exit 246 "El Palo-J.S. Elcano", and head to the sea and park and walk to the place. Better have someone explain to you on a city map. Parking may be tricky on a sunday. You can always take a taxi: to the Carreterita (Calle Bolivia) corner with Arroyo de los Pilones. There you walk to the beach (10 mtrs. and 50 mtrs left. All stuff is first class. Fried fish is cheap, but adding clams, mussels and shrimps, cigalas, lobster...shall raise the bill. (Do not be afraid to ask if budget is a problem, better avoid surprises). Another dish I like is Fish cooked under a salt crust: pescado a la sal. Tell the man (Chico is his name) I am sending you. Make your reservation (or ask the Hotel clerk do it in your name, they don’t speak fluent English) for the terrace at 952299148. Mandatory on a Sunday.
This man is a friend of mine, he recomends a place very near Guadalmar, by the sea walk: El Sardinal, the owner is Enrique, you can tell him that Chico from El Caleño is sending you. The shrimps shall not be as good.
Another place, near the Hotel (towards Malaga)is Marisquería Santa Paula, it has its own website www.marisqueriasantapaula.com with "how to get there" info. It is a very popular place, very big, (you cannot miss it on the corner, but it is not on the beach) but the fish is good, and it shall be open on mondays. Just phoned them, open daily from 7.00AM till midnight. (but again the shrimps shall not be as good as El Caleño's)
Jan 30th, 2009, 12:31 PM
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josele,
That is such incredibly thoughful and helpful info! I'm copying it for our next trip.
pdx,
In case you do decide on a quick visit to Jaén, there is a shop there, Oleocata-xauen (on Calle Muñoz Garnica 7)
that sells olive oils including the prestigious Ánima Áurea and Castillo de Canena, and everything made of oil, including nice cosmetics. I like their shampoos and hand creams. They also do tastings at the shop. You can see the products here- (and a picture of the shop on the home page).
http://tinyurl.com/bbmfkl
If you don't make it there, you can find the olive oil cosmetics as well in Granada, at the lovely shop, La Oliva, on Calle Rosario 9 (continuation of Calle Navas) downtown.
(the "snake charmer" continues to try to charm you into spending your hard-earned money $-)
And if you find yourself hungry in Ubeda at lunch time, here's my contribution:
the Brasería Restaurant is offering a great value, 12.90 euro meal, consisting of appetizer, 2 courses (with several selections in each course) and choice of dessert plus drink. A great deal. It's one of the 6 Ubeda restaurants participating in the "jornadas gastronómicas" (a gastronomic event) in the spring.
They also serve tapas/raciones (larger portions serving 2 or 3).
One of their specialties is "lomo de orza con aceite de oliva" (pork loin cooked in a clay pot with olive oil).
www.restaurantelabraseriadeubeda.com/elmenu.html
That is such incredibly thoughful and helpful info! I'm copying it for our next trip.
pdx,
In case you do decide on a quick visit to Jaén, there is a shop there, Oleocata-xauen (on Calle Muñoz Garnica 7)
that sells olive oils including the prestigious Ánima Áurea and Castillo de Canena, and everything made of oil, including nice cosmetics. I like their shampoos and hand creams. They also do tastings at the shop. You can see the products here- (and a picture of the shop on the home page).
http://tinyurl.com/bbmfkl
If you don't make it there, you can find the olive oil cosmetics as well in Granada, at the lovely shop, La Oliva, on Calle Rosario 9 (continuation of Calle Navas) downtown.
(the "snake charmer" continues to try to charm you into spending your hard-earned money $-)
And if you find yourself hungry in Ubeda at lunch time, here's my contribution:
the Brasería Restaurant is offering a great value, 12.90 euro meal, consisting of appetizer, 2 courses (with several selections in each course) and choice of dessert plus drink. A great deal. It's one of the 6 Ubeda restaurants participating in the "jornadas gastronómicas" (a gastronomic event) in the spring.
They also serve tapas/raciones (larger portions serving 2 or 3).
One of their specialties is "lomo de orza con aceite de oliva" (pork loin cooked in a clay pot with olive oil).
www.restaurantelabraseriadeubeda.com/elmenu.html
Jan 30th, 2009, 06:13 PM
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Both of you are so very wonderful! Thank you so much for taking so much time and sharing your experience.
Josele, just in case, this is your real name, not a screen name? I don't want to walk in there with 'Josele sent us!' and they look at us like we're nuts. I know that look well, I guess I should be used to it by now.
With a write-up like this I don't think we dare miss El Caleno (sorry, I don't have the little ~ thing or at least, don't know how to use it).
I'm sure the other restaurants are fabulous by our stateside standards, but I'm sure we would be wondering what could have been if we 'settled' for the other restaurants.
Also, my husband often talks about the pescado a la sal we had in Rome so another chance at it would be a big happy moment for him.
I feel so good about our plans now. Just a few details (like getting the time off from work) and we're all set! Car rental, a couple of hotels and what to wear. I'm really going to try to pack light and organized because we will be moving every couple of days. Usually we rent an apartment and stay for a week so this is a new experience.
Josele, just in case, this is your real name, not a screen name? I don't want to walk in there with 'Josele sent us!' and they look at us like we're nuts. I know that look well, I guess I should be used to it by now.
With a write-up like this I don't think we dare miss El Caleno (sorry, I don't have the little ~ thing or at least, don't know how to use it).
I'm sure the other restaurants are fabulous by our stateside standards, but I'm sure we would be wondering what could have been if we 'settled' for the other restaurants.
Also, my husband often talks about the pescado a la sal we had in Rome so another chance at it would be a big happy moment for him.
I feel so good about our plans now. Just a few details (like getting the time off from work) and we're all set! Car rental, a couple of hotels and what to wear. I'm really going to try to pack light and organized because we will be moving every couple of days. Usually we rent an apartment and stay for a week so this is a new experience.
Jan 30th, 2009, 06:32 PM
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Hi pdx,
You're going to have a wonderful trip! I can just tell.
Your upcoming adventure reminds me-
I just used up the last little 125 ml brick of ali-oli (of the Arte Oliva brand, Palma del Río) that we bought in Granada and brought back in our checked luggage. It's sooo good.
Nothing particularly special about it-you can buy it at El Corte Inglés or Alcampo or in the Día supermarkets, and ali-oli is really easy to make with a blender, but this particular specimen tastes particularly good in the US.
Wish I were headed to olive oil land with you! Have a great, great time!
You're going to have a wonderful trip! I can just tell.
Your upcoming adventure reminds me-
I just used up the last little 125 ml brick of ali-oli (of the Arte Oliva brand, Palma del Río) that we bought in Granada and brought back in our checked luggage. It's sooo good.
Nothing particularly special about it-you can buy it at El Corte Inglés or Alcampo or in the Día supermarkets, and ali-oli is really easy to make with a blender, but this particular specimen tastes particularly good in the US.
Wish I were headed to olive oil land with you! Have a great, great time!
Jan 30th, 2009, 06:48 PM
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Ok, you did it again, Maribel. What's ali-oli? Sounds like something I need and also sounds like a good thing to bring back for everyone else if it comes in a little brick. Big bottles of olive oil for me and little bricks for everyone else.
