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Our Trip Around the World , Part 6 - 3 Cities: Prague, Helsinki and Tallinn

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Our Trip Around the World , Part 6 - 3 Cities: Prague, Helsinki and Tallinn

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Old Apr 8th, 2020, 02:49 PM
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Really enjoying your report on Prague. Keep sharing all the descriptions so we can enjoy the sights and sounds through your writing. I have not been to Prague, now I am inspired to go there. Hope this corona virus situation gets over very soon.I am missing traveling.
Stay safe and healthy.
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Old Apr 8th, 2020, 06:09 PM
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Ok!

On to Finland!
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Old Apr 9th, 2020, 11:08 AM
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Ileen, Prague is a beautiful city, and I hope you will be able to visit it someday. The crowds can be a distraction, but if you get an early enough start in the morning, as suggested by mms, you hopefully would be able to visit the most popular attractions without the jostling mobs of people. Also, we found some out of the way places that were delightful and not at all crowded.
Like you, I am missing traveling. If I’m not planning a trip, actually on a trip, or reliving memories of a trip, I’m feeling the absence of something I love. Who could have ever dreamed that the world would be turned upside down, then shut down? Travel is, I know, the least of our worries right now, but I do miss it. Stay well, everyone!

Yes, jacketwatch, we are off to Finland, voted the world’s happiest country three years in a row!
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Old Apr 9th, 2020, 12:48 PM
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OUR VISIT TO FINLAND

For the third year in a row, Finland has been voted the happiest country in the world. A United Nation's committee established the rankings based on six variables: income, freedom, trust, healthy life expectancy, social support, and generosity. On a trip years ago to Croatia, we met a Finnish family while we were all waiting for a train. They were an ordinary family on holiday, a father, mother, and two young-adult daughters, and we only spent a few hours with them, killing time and chatting about a variety of things, but somehow they made a long-lasting impression on us. Looking back, it seems that for those six reasons established by the United Nations, this family was so comfortable and secure with themselves and each other, that spending a little time with them just felt good for us. Their good karma was catching! So it was that years later when we finally visited Finland, we were privileged to have another special encounter that gave us the same good feeling. There must definitely be something about the happiest people in the world that rubs off on all of us! It rubbed off on us, anyway. We remember our brief time in Finland with the deepest affection, and we need to go back, stay longer, and see more of this happy place, and enjoy more time with these happy people.
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Old Apr 9th, 2020, 06:07 PM
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I am familiar with the UN happiness surveys.

Scandinavian countries usually are up there.

Glad you got a good vibe!
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Old Apr 9th, 2020, 07:44 PM
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I was shocked a few years ago, while in the Helsinki square by the harbor, a man tried to pick pocket me. My wife caught him and I yelled at him... He just stood there and finally ran away.... I was amazed-- In Helsinki???
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Old Apr 9th, 2020, 07:45 PM
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Where to next?
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Old Apr 10th, 2020, 06:41 AM
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Jacketwatch, I would love to visit more of Scandinavia. Norway, especially, is calling our name. Looks gorgeous!

rhkkmk, it’s too bad you had to deal with a pickpocket attempt in Helsinki. That must have put a damper on your experience there. Just goes to show that no place is perfect, I guess.

Our next trip was supposed to be to Greece for a few weeks at the end of May. After Greece, we planned to meet our two daughters and two grandkids in Paris. After spending a few days in Paris, we were planning to visit the Dordogne, where we have a house rented near Beynac. We have been to the Dordogne before and thought it would be a great area for kids. Unfortunately, the Greek leg of our trip is already cancelled, but we are hoping we can postpone the family trip til later in the summer. We’ll see.
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Old Apr 10th, 2020, 08:35 AM
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I am following in my usual quiet way
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Old Apr 10th, 2020, 12:23 PM
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Thanks, Percy!

OUR TRIP TO HELSINKI

Except for the fact that I left my trusty, tried & true, rain jacket in the airport lounge, to be lost forever, our 2 hour flight on Finnair from Prague to Helsinki was quick and pleasant. Following easy instructions we had received from our Airbnb host, we caught a bus outside the airport that took us to a stop near our next rental apartment. Our host was waiting for us when we got off the bus, and escorted us down the street, around the corner, and into his apartment building. On the way, he commented that we were in the "bohemian" part of town. We might encounter, he said, some people dealing with drug issues, but he reassured us that they were harmless and that most were in treatment at facilities in the area. The area was pretty gritty, but the apartment on the 7th floor had wrap around views and comfortable spaces, so it worked for us. This Airbnb is no longer available. In fact, our host told us we were the last guests he would be welcoming here, as certain family issues were making it impossible for him to keep the rental going. He had considered cancelling our stay at one point, he said, but decided against it. We were so glad, because we had found there weren't a lot of options available in Helsinki right then. Looking for lodgings at the last minute would not have been easy. He was a nice man, but we had the feeling that something pretty tragic was going on in his life. We felt badly for him and wished him well.

Two nearby supermarkets gave us plenty of choices for buying supplies, and we soon stocked up on what we needed for a three day stay. It was late and we were tired and hungry, so we settled on our go-to option for dinner - frozen lasagna. No matter where we were in the world, we could always find lasagna in the freezer section of most grocery stores. Not the most interesting food choice while traveling, but it worked for us when we needed to fix something quick and easy. That evening we watched the lights come on in Helsinki, from our "penthouse" apartment, and although Helsinki is nowhere as beautiful as Prague, we were happy to be there.

OUR FIRST DAY IN HELSINKI

Our plans for our two days in Helsinki quickly took shape. Steve, as always, easily figured out the public transportation system, and we were soon buying two day passes from a helpful clerk at a nearby convenience store. Our next stop was the Tourist Information Office at Helsinki's Central Station, where a pleasant young man cleared up some questions we had about the logistics of traveling by ferry to Tallinn, Estonia. The Central Station building, by the way, was an interesting sight on its own, with its combination of Art Nouveau and Art Deco features. Especially appealing were the four huge pillars flanking the main entry. Each pillar was topped with the giant torso of a fierce looking man holding a globe-shaped lamp. I'm not sure what these huge men were meant to symbolize but they seemed to have a stern, no nonsense attitude as they look down at the passengers hurrying beneath them. Next, we were off to the ferry terminal to purchase tickets for a trip to Estonia the next day. After making our arrangements for the ferry, we returned to central Helsinki, walked down some of the main thoroughfares and through a park to the harbor area. There on the market square, several stalls were set up, and we spent some time wandering around them. This market has operated for centuries, and vendors were selling furs, and pelts with tails attached, along with reindeer skins, just as they must have hundreds of years ago. I checked out some lovely knitted hats and mittens, and warm woven blankets, but decided my suitcase was already way too full. The food stalls at the market offered a variety of traditional Finnish foods, from salmon soup to boxes of fried squid rings, along with moose meat pies and reindeer burgers. We decided to wait and have lunch instead on the islands of Suomenlinna, as the ferry to that World Heritage site was approaching the dock and would soon load up with passengers and head back across the harbor. This destination was popular with locals and tourists alike and on this gorgeous early spring day, we didn't want to take a change on missing the boat.

The ferry ride to Suomenlinna didn't take long, and we disembarked and found the information center right away. Suomenlinna is a maritime fortress built by Sweden on a series of linked islands during the 18th century, at a time when Finland was considered part of Sweden. We were surprised to learn that Swedish is one of the official languages of Finland, even though Finland has long been an independent country. In 1808, Russia took over Suomenlinna when it defeated the Swedes, but following the Russian Revolution in 1917, the fortress became a possession of an independent Finland. Now, with a number of museums, picturesque stone buildings, walking paths, restaurants, and even an original Finnish submarine, Suomenlinna is a popular spot to visit, picnic, and hike, and is open year round.

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Old Apr 11th, 2020, 12:27 PM
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Our First Day in Helsinki Continued

There were three or four restaurants opened for lunch in various locations on Suomenlina's islands, but when we were told that asparagus was the featured ingredient of the day at the cafe attached to the visitor's center, we decided to eat there. We both love fresh asparagus in season and this little cafe did a good job with the asparagus dishes we sampled. Steve's lunch was spears of white and green asparagus with sliced beef and shaved parmesan, and I had creamy asparagus soup with homemade croutons. A basket of Finnish bread was brought to the table, along with a sweetened buttery spread. The spread was delicious on the dense molasses bread and also on the crisp flatbread. I think we ate every last bit. It was all delicious.

Completely full and satisfied, we began our stroll among the fortifications and various buildings that made up this historical site. If it hadn't been so chilly and breezy, we might have stayed longer. The wind off the Baltic Sea rushed us along down the pathways and through the courtyards, where stray fragments of half melted snowbanks added to the chill. But we stayed long enough to absorb an abbreviated history lesson, which provided us with some insight into Finland's difficult past, and the pressures it withstood from its aggressive neighbors, Sweden and Russian, throughout the centuries.

On the ferry ride back to Helsinki's harbor, we shared some wooden bench seats with a young Finnish woman and a little girl. The young woman soon struck up a conversation with us, and asked if her little sister, whose name was Janina, could practice her English on us. The little one was only four years old, a year younger than our granddaughter, so we were amazed that she was learning English in school. But from what I've read, schools in Finland are among the best in the world, and Janina, though shy, did very well speaking to us in our language. Her sister, we learned, was in her early twenties and had a young son of her own who was spending the afternoon with his grandmother. This young woman was so interesting and easy to talk to, as she described her family and asked about our vacation. Before docking, the ferry passed by a multilevel outdoor pool complex, and we exclaimed over the large number of people bathing there in such cold temperatures. Our new friend explained about the hot pools and the cold plunges, describing the experience as "wonderful". "I love to do it!" she said. "I feel so good afterwards." One of the reasons given for Finland's high marks on the happiness spectrum was this affinity for icy swims and saunas, which appears to be very good for mental health. Perhaps Steve and I should give it a try sometime. (Doubtful!)

After the ferry docked, we bid Janina and her sister goodbye, and set off to visit the red brick Eastern Orthodox Uspenski Cathedral, which stood grandly above the harbor, its golden domes atop its copper roofs glowing in the sunlight. We climbed the hill and then the stairs, and entered the cathedral where a service was underway. The interior was dazzling, with golden icons everywhere, but pictures were not allowed during services, and we didn't want to wander around, disrupting worshippers. Walking back down the stairs and into the city center, we were soon in Senate Square which was filled with blooming yellow daffodils. Dominating the Square was Helsinki Cathedral, looming brilliantly white against the very blue sky. The cathedral sat at the top of a high, broad flight of steps which provided seats for dozens of tourists. We took lots of pictures, but didn't venture up the steps ourselves, or into the church, as the afternoon chill was entering our bones. We were ready to return to our apartment and cook hot pea soup, a Finnish staple, for our dinner. Tired of walking, we sat at a tram stop waiting for the tram car that would take us back to the central station, where we could connect to the metro line we needed. We sat for a while, getting colder by the minute, before we saw a bulletin announcing a delay in the trolley service. Ready to give up and walk, the particular trolley we needed suddenly did show up and we ran to catch it. As soon as we boarded and sat down, who should we see right behind us but our young friend from the ferry. This time, she was accompanied by her small son, having dropped her little sister off with her mother. Pleased to see her again, we had a lot of happy chatter on the way to the train station. Right away, she asked if we'd like to have dinner at her home the next night. We would have loved to do that, but we had already purchased our ferry tickets to Estonia for the next day. After our trip to Tallinn, we wouldn't be back in time to travel to her home, which she said was located in a town about 40 minutes outside Helsinki. What a sweet girl she was, and so proud of her country. We were glad to have met her, and wished we could have spent more time with her. Thanks to her, our affection for Finland grew even stronger. We promised her we would definitely return someday.
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Old Apr 11th, 2020, 01:05 PM
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Enjoying, and reliving some of our own tracks.
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Old Apr 12th, 2020, 05:19 AM
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Awesome TR.
In addition to sights meeting locals is a great part of the experience. Too bad you did not have time to have dinner with that woman. That would be something I would love to do.

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Old Apr 13th, 2020, 12:24 PM
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I'm glad, rhkkmk, that this report is helping you to relive some travel memories. Everyone needs to do that right now.

Yes, jacketwatch, it was too bad that dinner didn't work out for us. She was a sweetheart!

OUR DAY TRIP TO TALLINN, ESTONIA

We weren't sure what to expect on the Tallink Ferry from Helsinki to Tallinn. The ferries we've experienced in the past have ranged from pretty nice to pretty basic. The Tallink Ferry, Megastar, however, turned out to be the best we've ever been aboard, and the two hour trip was pleasant and easy. The fairly large vessel was surprisingly bright and modern, with a variety of sleek and polished areas where we could sit, dine, drink, relax, or shop, so we spent a little time just exploring. We wandered through the spacious bar, where a live band was providing entertainment and several passengers were playing slot machines. One of the rear decks was glass enclosed and set up like a garden patio. The sit down restaurant on another level appeared quite formal and required reservations. The "traveler superstore" was on two levels and had a wide selection of merchandise. Finally, we settled down into comfortable chairs at a table in the cafeteria. Tempting trays of good things to eat and drink were arranged on various hot and cold food stations nearby, and it took some willpower just to settle for coffee and a shared pastry. But before too long, the Megastar was docking in Tallinn, and we were following the crowd toward the Old Town area.

After a twenty minute walk, we arrived at the outer town walls. Inside the wall, picturesque narrow streets headed off in different directions, and even though we had a map, we didn't get our bearings right away. Our immediate concern, however, was finding a good place for lunch. There were a few little cafes and restaurants scattered along the first main street we came upon, and we checked out the posted menus. After awhile, we decided on a place with an entrance down a flight of steep stone steps. After carefully descending the stairs, we found ourselves in a cellar with stone archways and vaulted ceilings. Mounted boars heads decorated the walls, along with a selection of medieval weaponry, so this little place with a few small tables tucked into different corners was exceedingly atmospheric. I ordered vegetable soup and Steve chose the schnitzel special. All was good, as we relaxed and enjoyed a beer and a sparkling water, until a small crisis at an adjoining table resulted in unsettling our server and also, I think, the cook. It seemed the pancakes served to someone in that group of four diners were black. The waitress tried to explain that the flour used in the pancake batter was dark, but that assertion was lost in translation and the woman who was complaining wanted nothing to do with black pancakes. After some muttering on her part about how everything served in this place would probably be burnt on the bottom, some compromise was reached. However, in the turmoil, our table was forgotten. My bowl of soup was set in front of me in the midst of all the back and forth, but Steve's lunch didn't show up for quite some time. We could tell the waitress was upset, so we didn't want to add to her troubles, but we were on a fixed schedule, with only a few hours available to explore Tallinn before we had to catch the ferry and return to Helsinki. Finally, after the unhappy people at the adjoining table settled their bill and left in a huff, Steve's piping hot and delicious schnitzel was served, along with an apology from the waitress. He enjoyed his meal, and I shared part of it. Before too much more time was lost, we were climbing those steep stone steps back out of the restaurant, on our way to see some more of the lovely town of Tallinn.

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Old Apr 14th, 2020, 04:38 AM
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Wow! Too bad about that scene at lunch.

I recall that walk into town in Tallinn. It was so quaint. Our cruise ship docked much closer so our walk was just a few minutes really.

Good to learn about the amenities on that ferry too.

Following along.

Larry
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Old Apr 15th, 2020, 04:02 AM
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Candace, I've been following along. Wow! What a fabulous trip you had!

I am happy to hear that you were able to see Prague's beauty through the crowds. It is such a gorgeous city! We visited Prague twice, once in October 2003 when our youngest daughter studied there, and in August 2009. It wasn't overly crowded in 2003. I assume one reason is because we were there in October, which was a great month to visit. We loved the crisp fall air and walking uphill, shuffling through the leaves, to Vysehrad, one of our favorite areas of Prague. Restaurants and bars were also serving hot mulled wine from their take-out windows. What a treat! Summer 2009 was more crowded, of course, but I try not to let crowds spoil my enjoyment of a place. I still want to visit Venice some day, despite the crowds.
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Old Apr 15th, 2020, 07:40 AM
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I am really enjoying your reports. We were scheduled to take a Baltic cruise in July but that has been cancelled. We would have been visiting many of the places on which you are reporting.
Thanks so much for taking the time to post such a detailed report.
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Old Apr 15th, 2020, 11:58 AM
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I agree, Larry, Tallinn is definitely quaint. Almost like a mini Prague without the crowds!

Karen, Prague is certainly a gorgeous city and it must have been wonderful to see it in 2003, before it became such a popular destination. But you are so right not to let crowds spoil a place for you. You'll love Venice, I bet.

Schmerl, sorry about your Baltic cruise. Trip cancellations are certainly the order of the day right now. Hopefully, you can reschedule when travel is safe again.

Our Day Trip to Tallinn - Continued

We were sorry that we didn't have more time to explore Tallinn, with its pretty little streets and squares, and decorated pastel buildings. Spending the night in Tallinn would have been special, I think, as I'm sure it is beautifully lit up after dark. All those pink, yellow, and grey houses, with the various embellishments across their facades like frosting on a cake, would be lovely to look at in the evening, I imagine. Unfortunately, we were worried about catching the ferry back to Helsinki, and found ourselves doing a power walk by the towers of the town wall and through the main square, to insure we wouldn't miss the boat. I noticed some shop windows displaying lots of interesting amber jewelry as we hurried by. I would have loved to browse through those jewelry stores, but we had no time. However brief our visit was, we were glad we had made the trip to Tallinn, and decided we would just have to come back someday.

The ferry ride back to Helsinki was crowded, and therefore not so pleasant as the trip over to Tallinn had been. Some sort of youth sports tournament must have taken place in Tallinn, and the boat was crammed with teams of young boys on their way home. Full of energy and competitive spirit, they sprawled on the chairs and occupied most of the available tables in the cafeteria. They were loud, with lots of good natured chatter back and forth, and at least provided us with some good people-watching opportunities, as we looked on from our little corner of the jam packed room. Once the ferry docked, we quickly made our way off, and found seats on the trolley back to the main station. Before long, we were back in our apartment, using leftovers to fix our last real dinner on vacation.

Up early, we caught the bus to the airport, and after an hour or so in the Finnair lounge, we were boarding our nine hour flight back to Chicago. From Chicago, after a few nerve wracking delays and the serious possibility of a flight cancellation, our plane took off, and by 11:00 pm we were unlocking our own front door. We were home. We had come full circle, and our wonderful trip around the world was over. But we had a wealth of beautiful memories and hundreds of pictures to match. Before we were even home, we both agreed that we could have kept on going, and that we would do another round the world trip in a heartbeat. Next time, though, we would take a little more time, and travel for at least a few weeks longer. We are so lucky, we know, that we travel so well together, both on a trip around the world and through our fifty years of marriage.
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Old Apr 15th, 2020, 09:07 PM
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Really enjoyed your entire around the world trip. Looks like you really had tons of fun, unique experiences and a life time of memories.
Your Tallinn report brings back amazing memories for me. We have been there more than once and I love the country, its people and its liquor Vana Tallinn, which has assorted varieties and is a must buy for me.

Your trip was quite short, but wondering if you got acquainted with the Song Festival.It is a national festival held every 5 years in July when thousands of local gather to sing songs. The audience is even bigger , attracting additional thousands. They all wear folk costumes, wave their blue and black flag and sing beautifully.
The festival dates back to 1869.
In 1980s the music of the Estonians was instrumental in splitting away from Soviet Union. The Singing Revolution inspired everyone in the country to sing patriotic songs and they gained independence in a non-violent manner in 1991.
There is a really nice documentary "The Singing Revolution," that highlights the whole history of this singing nation.
I hope, you have either seen it or will plan to see it someday
Although you wrote your report after a whole year, I think you selected a good time as we are all stuck indoors. I am sure this report was a great leisure time activity.
Well enjoy the memories and stay safe and healthy.
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Old Apr 16th, 2020, 02:30 AM
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Thank you for sharing this with us, such a nice distraction for those of us cancelling holidays.
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