Our Italy 2024 adventure
Jul 17th, 2024 | 08:51 PM
#1
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Joined: Jun 2010
Posts: 363
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Our Italy 2024 adventure
The itinerary for this year is Puglia (Polignano, Leuca, Lecce), Matera, Napoli, Orvieto, Firenze, Roma. Text here. Some photos to entice…
Sunrise from our roof.
Remember, if you smile at life it will smile back - Jim Morrison
The old town at night
Napping cat
Prawns
The old town is beautiful!
“Our” beach
Cocktails at sunset
Bella!
Sunrise from our roof.
Remember, if you smile at life it will smile back - Jim Morrison
The old town at night
Napping cat
Prawns
The old town is beautiful!
“Our” beach
Cocktails at sunset
Bella!
Jul 21st, 2024 | 05:55 AM
#6
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Joined: Jun 2010
Posts: 363
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After three nights in Polignano, it was time for our next stop – Santa Maria di Leuca. This seaside town is at the very bottom of Italy’s heel and attracted my attention with its location which is precisely where the Ionian and Adriatic seas meet. For future reference – any place which offers the chance for both amazing sunrises and sunsets has my name all over it.
After considering our transportation options, I had elected to rent a car for the three nights we’ll be in Leuca since it seemed to be a bit of the beaten track in terms of transit. We left Polignano by train, made a quick change of trains in Monopoli and then continued to Lecce (our eventual final stop in Puglia) where we grabbed a cab from the train station to pick up the car.
Less than 90 minutes later our host, who had met us under the large Italian flag near the statue of San Pio, led us to our home for the next few nights. After a quick unpacking, we grabbed our swimsuits and other necessities and drove down the hill with the Adriatic glistening to the right. Our host had recommended Lido Giulia as the original Lido in the area and we found it to be perfect. For €20 we scored a couple of lounge chairs and an umbrella on one of the decks on the water and I went directly into the sea.
Have I mentioned the heat here? It was over 100° F!
The temperature of the water was a little cooler than it had been in Polignano and I welcomed the refreshment it provided. The area where we got into the water was rocky, but the Lido had constructed a walkway which led directly into the water without having to tread on what looked to be sharp rocks.
We remained comfortably ensconced on our lounge chairs until 7:00. To facilitate parking, I downloaded the Easy Park app which is used to pay for parking and allows one to extend their allotted time without bothering to return to the car. Easy peasy. We left the Lido and continued into town (a very short distance) to pick up a few necessary items from the grocery market and had a quick look around getting a lay of the land.
What happened next was similar to the experience we had in Polignano – we “met” people in one location and then encountered them again in a different place. This time, as we backed the car out of a tight spot we received some welcome assistance from some locals. Some 20 minutes later as we searched for our accommodations, without much help from any of the apps we were using, we once again ran into the very same folks who had guided us out of the parking space. Now they guided us into our home, even using the key to unlock the door for us. It was so kind that the donation they solicited for their church festival seemed a small price to pay!
After showering and relaxing for a while we walked to dinner at a nearby restaurant, Loquita. It was close to 9:00 by this point and the walk was delightful with warm air and a delicious and steady breeze. Speaking of delicious, our meal was really good. We were seated under the bridge we had driven over multiple times when we were seeking our Airbnb and the view was lovely. Dinner was a leisurely affair with 3 courses and the perfect bottle of vino bianco, a Puglian Falanghina.
It was close to midnight by the time we found our way home (easier on foot than driving despite the wine we had consumed!) and called it a day. Actually, let’s call it a bella giornata.
After considering our transportation options, I had elected to rent a car for the three nights we’ll be in Leuca since it seemed to be a bit of the beaten track in terms of transit. We left Polignano by train, made a quick change of trains in Monopoli and then continued to Lecce (our eventual final stop in Puglia) where we grabbed a cab from the train station to pick up the car.
Less than 90 minutes later our host, who had met us under the large Italian flag near the statue of San Pio, led us to our home for the next few nights. After a quick unpacking, we grabbed our swimsuits and other necessities and drove down the hill with the Adriatic glistening to the right. Our host had recommended Lido Giulia as the original Lido in the area and we found it to be perfect. For €20 we scored a couple of lounge chairs and an umbrella on one of the decks on the water and I went directly into the sea.
Have I mentioned the heat here? It was over 100° F!
The temperature of the water was a little cooler than it had been in Polignano and I welcomed the refreshment it provided. The area where we got into the water was rocky, but the Lido had constructed a walkway which led directly into the water without having to tread on what looked to be sharp rocks.
We remained comfortably ensconced on our lounge chairs until 7:00. To facilitate parking, I downloaded the Easy Park app which is used to pay for parking and allows one to extend their allotted time without bothering to return to the car. Easy peasy. We left the Lido and continued into town (a very short distance) to pick up a few necessary items from the grocery market and had a quick look around getting a lay of the land.
What happened next was similar to the experience we had in Polignano – we “met” people in one location and then encountered them again in a different place. This time, as we backed the car out of a tight spot we received some welcome assistance from some locals. Some 20 minutes later as we searched for our accommodations, without much help from any of the apps we were using, we once again ran into the very same folks who had guided us out of the parking space. Now they guided us into our home, even using the key to unlock the door for us. It was so kind that the donation they solicited for their church festival seemed a small price to pay!
After showering and relaxing for a while we walked to dinner at a nearby restaurant, Loquita. It was close to 9:00 by this point and the walk was delightful with warm air and a delicious and steady breeze. Speaking of delicious, our meal was really good. We were seated under the bridge we had driven over multiple times when we were seeking our Airbnb and the view was lovely. Dinner was a leisurely affair with 3 courses and the perfect bottle of vino bianco, a Puglian Falanghina.
It was close to midnight by the time we found our way home (easier on foot than driving despite the wine we had consumed!) and called it a day. Actually, let’s call it a bella giornata.
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Jul 22nd, 2024 | 08:58 PM
#11
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Joined: Jun 2010
Posts: 363
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bilboburgler I can see why one would choose this beautiful spot, although I’m not personally tempted. 
Some thoughts from Leuca -
Getting out of the water for women of all ages is, without fail, accompanied by bathing suit adjustment.
It is possible to reserve your preferred chaises at the Lido for your planned return the next day. Just ask.
There’s a fairly constant breeze moving the air about. It doesn’t carry the scent of the water because the Adriatic (at least here) doesn’t seem to have any smell. It’s certainly not North Atlantic briny.
Finally had my first pasticchiotti and it was worth the wait. It came from Martinucci, along with a croissant/cornetto* and a yeasty donut, and I selected a lemon cream filling from the variety available. It was a delectable treat. Shortbread crust encased a dense, almost pudding like lemon filling. Wonderful – as were the other items purchased.
Maintaining hydration is vital and involves a personal balance between water and wine. For me, it’s 3 liters of water a day (half of which is fortified with added electrolytes) and maybe .75 L of local wine, either white or rosé.
The sunsets are epic.
The heat is no joke, but quite tolerable if you hydrate, find some shade and slow down. Fortunately, I’m adept at all of these.
The beaches are mostly rocky and occupied by bathers, a word I selected with thought, from early morning to night, as I observed.
Eat the fava beans with chicory. Thank me later.
The pizza was excellent also. Both came from Sacresita, a place we went to twice for dinner. Go – and tell Paola that Silvia sent you.
Leuca is a lively town at night. Take a decent siesta – at home or at the Lido, and reserve some vigor for after dark. There might even be some dancing.
Fava bean purée with chicory.
Sunset
Nearly full bella luna
Some thoughts from Leuca -
Getting out of the water for women of all ages is, without fail, accompanied by bathing suit adjustment.
It is possible to reserve your preferred chaises at the Lido for your planned return the next day. Just ask.
There’s a fairly constant breeze moving the air about. It doesn’t carry the scent of the water because the Adriatic (at least here) doesn’t seem to have any smell. It’s certainly not North Atlantic briny.
Finally had my first pasticchiotti and it was worth the wait. It came from Martinucci, along with a croissant/cornetto* and a yeasty donut, and I selected a lemon cream filling from the variety available. It was a delectable treat. Shortbread crust encased a dense, almost pudding like lemon filling. Wonderful – as were the other items purchased.
Maintaining hydration is vital and involves a personal balance between water and wine. For me, it’s 3 liters of water a day (half of which is fortified with added electrolytes) and maybe .75 L of local wine, either white or rosé.
The sunsets are epic.
The heat is no joke, but quite tolerable if you hydrate, find some shade and slow down. Fortunately, I’m adept at all of these.
The beaches are mostly rocky and occupied by bathers, a word I selected with thought, from early morning to night, as I observed.
Eat the fava beans with chicory. Thank me later.
The pizza was excellent also. Both came from Sacresita, a place we went to twice for dinner. Go – and tell Paola that Silvia sent you.
Leuca is a lively town at night. Take a decent siesta – at home or at the Lido, and reserve some vigor for after dark. There might even be some dancing.
Fava bean purée with chicory.
Sunset
Nearly full bella luna
Last edited by nylilly; Jul 22nd, 2024 at 09:02 PM. Reason: Added photos
Jul 26th, 2024 | 12:32 AM
#14
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Joined: Jun 2010
Posts: 363
Likes: 0
We’ve left Lecce and are now in Matera. I’ve heard it’s difficult to navigate this area a car, but have to say it hasn’t been too challenging. To reach Matera, we took a train to Bari and then switched to the local rail
https://ferrovieappulolucane.it/
to reach Matera. Be aware that you have to switch trains at one point on the local line to get to Matera. You’ll have to disembark, leave the station and then find the next train on the left. Hold on to your ticket because you’ll need it to scan to leave the station at Bari Centrale.
So, now we’re here and it’s spectacular. Not for those with mobility issues, though. I think it would be very challenging terrain on foot for those with limited mobility, but there are vehicles that could certainly serve to tour one about.
The Sassi
Bring shoes that grip!
The resourcefulness and beauty are overwhelming.
It almost looks like candlelight.
https://ferrovieappulolucane.it/
to reach Matera. Be aware that you have to switch trains at one point on the local line to get to Matera. You’ll have to disembark, leave the station and then find the next train on the left. Hold on to your ticket because you’ll need it to scan to leave the station at Bari Centrale.
So, now we’re here and it’s spectacular. Not for those with mobility issues, though. I think it would be very challenging terrain on foot for those with limited mobility, but there are vehicles that could certainly serve to tour one about.
The Sassi
Bring shoes that grip!
The resourcefulness and beauty are overwhelming.
It almost looks like candlelight.
Jul 29th, 2024 | 06:10 AM
#16
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Joined: Jun 2010
Posts: 363
Likes: 0
Thank you, Zebec. I appreciate your kind words.
Our time in Matera was unforgettable - from the dreamy accommodations to the spectacular scenery and delicious food, it was unbelievable. On our first morning, I woke early (a benefit of insomnia) and was dressed and hitting the trail to hike the ravine and check out the caves by 6:45. I knew my only prayer for doing this not so long, but very up and down trail, was to do it before the sun was too strong. Matera had delightfully cool evenings and mornings, unlike our previous destinations where the temperature barely dropped to around 80°, day or night.
The path for the hike was challenging for me due to my footwear - a pair of Adidas Stan Smith’s was the closest I had to hiking shoes and I erred on the side of caution when it came to my pace. The trail had a fair amount of broken glass and I didn’t want to slip and land on any of that! Ultimately, it took me just about two hours to hike down, cross the suspension bridge over what can be considered an oasis with greenery, a flowing stream and lots of noisy birds, climb to the top of the cave side of things and then reverse myself and get “home” again. Of course, I was pausing like mad to take photos, too.
View from inside a cave.
A cave church with ancient frescoes.
I’m always impressed by the tenacity of nature to create beauty.
A satisfied hiker.
Later in the day, we visited a couple of the churches, including the one carved into the rock where no photos are allowed. While it was impressive, my favorite church in town ended up being the nearby San Pietro. There was something about the interior that resonated for me.
San Pietro exterior
Interior
The simplicity of this touched me
After artwork in another church in Matera depicted a woman’s breasts being cut off…well, this image made me happy.
We had very good food in Matera (really, just about everywhere) enjoying the pastry, pasta and pizza that I ate with abandon, because I was covering 16,000+ steps a day and racked up 88 floors in a single day.
Post hike breakfast
orecchiette
Beef ravioli with a delectable cheesy cream sauce
A gorgeous caprese that would have served 3
Veal chops with accompaniment. (Not my dinner, no details)
I’d like to believe that I’ll return to Matera one day but, if not, I’ll never forget the two days we were there. Fantastic!
Our time in Matera was unforgettable - from the dreamy accommodations to the spectacular scenery and delicious food, it was unbelievable. On our first morning, I woke early (a benefit of insomnia) and was dressed and hitting the trail to hike the ravine and check out the caves by 6:45. I knew my only prayer for doing this not so long, but very up and down trail, was to do it before the sun was too strong. Matera had delightfully cool evenings and mornings, unlike our previous destinations where the temperature barely dropped to around 80°, day or night.
The path for the hike was challenging for me due to my footwear - a pair of Adidas Stan Smith’s was the closest I had to hiking shoes and I erred on the side of caution when it came to my pace. The trail had a fair amount of broken glass and I didn’t want to slip and land on any of that! Ultimately, it took me just about two hours to hike down, cross the suspension bridge over what can be considered an oasis with greenery, a flowing stream and lots of noisy birds, climb to the top of the cave side of things and then reverse myself and get “home” again. Of course, I was pausing like mad to take photos, too.
View from inside a cave.
A cave church with ancient frescoes.
I’m always impressed by the tenacity of nature to create beauty.
A satisfied hiker.
Later in the day, we visited a couple of the churches, including the one carved into the rock where no photos are allowed. While it was impressive, my favorite church in town ended up being the nearby San Pietro. There was something about the interior that resonated for me.
San Pietro exterior
Interior
The simplicity of this touched me
After artwork in another church in Matera depicted a woman’s breasts being cut off…well, this image made me happy.
We had very good food in Matera (really, just about everywhere) enjoying the pastry, pasta and pizza that I ate with abandon, because I was covering 16,000+ steps a day and racked up 88 floors in a single day.
Post hike breakfast
orecchiette
Beef ravioli with a delectable cheesy cream sauce
A gorgeous caprese that would have served 3
Veal chops with accompaniment. (Not my dinner, no details)
I’d like to believe that I’ll return to Matera one day but, if not, I’ll never forget the two days we were there. Fantastic!
Last edited by nylilly; Jul 29th, 2024 at 06:12 AM. Reason: Punctuation
Aug 25th, 2024 | 09:30 AM
#17
Joined: Aug 2022
Posts: 118
Likes: 0
nylilly - Thanks for this great TR and so beautiful pictures! I really like the way you enjoy and describe the simple and meaningful good things of local attractions, nice places to eat and wander. And just enjoy the moments of life.
Your itinerary covered so well many of the places I’m looking forward to visiting. And I got very interested in your logistics and ways of transportation. So, would you tell how you made it from Matera to Naples? Bus?
Waiting for more of your stories and awesome photos😊
Your itinerary covered so well many of the places I’m looking forward to visiting. And I got very interested in your logistics and ways of transportation. So, would you tell how you made it from Matera to Naples? Bus?
Waiting for more of your stories and awesome photos😊
Last edited by leifields; Aug 25th, 2024 at 10:00 AM.
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