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Our favorite dishes- Dordogne (Jun 12)/Paris (Jul 12) (long)

Our favorite dishes- Dordogne (Jun 12)/Paris (Jul 12) (long)

Old Aug 5th, 2012, 06:50 AM
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Our favorite dishes- Dordogne (Jun 12)/Paris (Jul 12) (long)

La Petite Tonnelle
Le Bourg, 24220 Beynac-et-Cazenac, France (Formerly Beynac-et-Cazenac)
05 53 29 95 18 (Sunday)
101.50€- two formulae @ 26.00€ with a 5€ supplement (don’t remember on which dish), two glasses of champagne, a glass each white & red and an Armagnac

We had dinner here our first night in the Dordogne. It was recommended by the gite owners and was very nice. The stand out dish here was pate of veal & foie gras. Though to be honest the best parts were tiny marinated girolles and a relish/sauce of walnuts, persillade and some vinegar. Will definitely try to recreate that!

La Gabarre
Le Mondou Saint-Julien-de-Lampon, 24370 Sarlat-la-Caneda, France
05 53 29 61 43 (Monday)
122.50€ with a 35€ & 26€ menus
We usually muddle along with our generally pretty good menu French and occasionally we get pleasantly surprised. I am not sure what I was expecting when I ordered this dish but it wasn’t mackerel. I probably wouldn’t have ordered it if I had translated ‘le maquereau’ in time but we would have missed out tasting this tart with caramelized onions and mackerel. Wonderful!

Le Vieux Logis
Rue des Ecoles, 24510 Tremolat, France
175.20€ with two tapas menus (45€ ea), kir royale (14€ ea), two glasses of red & white (~27€), tea and a vintage Armagnac

For our thirtieth anniversary I asked on the boards for a suggestion for lunch or dinner. The response was almost unanimously Le Vieux Logis for their tapas lunch. We had a fabulous meal here.

Several of the outstanding items were:
• for an amuse a simple cracker with a half of a plum tomato that been peeled, poached or baked with basil-simple and delicious –definitely on the to be attempt list
• a knob of lobster tail between two squares of tomato on an aspic which seemed to be made from the court bouillon with a touch of something acidic-fabulous
• for a cheese course- a Camembert mousse with raspberries
• dessert-fresh strawberries with a lemon, basil strawberry sorbet

Les Glycines
4 avenue de Laugerie, 24620 Les Eyzies-de-Tayac-Sireuil, France
226.00€ with two 55€ menus, a supplement of 9€ for the ris de veau (and worth every penny), kir royale (14€ ea), half bottle of Savigny Les Beaune (25 €), several other glasses of wine and a vintage Armagnac

We had asked Valentine at La Gabarre for a suggestion and this was one of the places she recommended. It was an atrociously hot night without a breeze but we still elected to sit on the terrace. We noticed that others had hand fans and requested one. It was a nice touch. The meal here was also fabulous in the way hotel restaurants can afford to be.

The two standout dishes here were an amuse of a cold asparagus soup with a raft of cepes in the middle and a ris de veau in a broth of celery- at least that is what they say it was. It was green but it had none of the taste of cooked celery. It was amazing and added weight to tilting my husband to a ris de veau lover.

Restaurant Le Grand Bleu
43, Avenue de la Gare, 24 200 Sarlat-la-Caneda, France
+33 (0)5 53 31 08 48
165€ with two 49€ menus and a half bottle of red and white wines (25 and 26€ respectively)

This meal was a disappointment to us. Not the food which was very good but the cold and dismissive service from one of the owners. We noticed on the menu that there was a Menu du Marche and inquired about it. We were not expecting a description in English but even in French should have gotten more than the entrée is fish, there is a fish or beef plat and a cake for dessert. If you don’t want people to order the lower priced menu then don’t offer it!

That said the simply labeled Terrine de cèpes du Périgord was amazing. If you love cèpes or mushrooms of any type order this dish. It was a hot terrine and the aroma preceded the dish. What I would love to know how to do is make the mushroom glace that accompanied it. Yum.

L’Auberge du 15
15 rue de la Santé, 75013 Paris
Port Royal (RER B) or Saint Jacques (6)
Closed : Sunday & Monday
301.00€ This was an a la carte menu- plats were 39€. We had two bottle of wine since they didn’t have half bottles -Riesling Grand Cru Scholossberg Paul Blanck – 2008 59€ and Nuits Saint Georges -Aurélien Verdet – 2006 74€

We were so late for this dinner that they called the hotel to ask if we were coming. We first got on the metro going the wrong way, then when we want to simply take the metro the opposite direction we found it was closed. We took the RER with a group of cross dressers from the Gay Pride parade – imagine a 6’4” guy in spike heels and a red slip dress! Then we couldn’t find the street. But when we did we were very pleased we had.

The outstanding dish here was an entrée of tuna (19€), simply seared on a bed of eggplant puree with a grilled eggplant. With it was a balsamic glaze and a small spoonful of tomato confit. Amazing and we have already tried to recreate this dish. We need to find some of that intense tomato confit.

Les Jalles
14 rue des Capucines, 75002 Paris
Madeleine (8, 12, 14)
Open every day for Breakfast, Lunch & Dinner
01 42 61 66 71
261.00€ a la carte- plats were 38 & 33 €

I am not sure why I picked this restaurant except that it was a Sunday in Paris. At first we thought that all the English speakers were seated on the ground floor and the French were shown up stairs. Then my husband went up to use the rest rooms and said there was only a bar up there. I understand the French think Americans know nothing about wine but if you offer wines by the glass not every American will be satisfied to be told that you have red or white. Take a cue when we ask what kind that we expect more.

Go for the foie gras flan topped with an asparagus soup (22€). It was fabulous and worth the condescension. By the way my husband managed to get a glass of very nice Côtes du Rhône to go with his boeuf.

L'Avant Comptoir
9 carrefour de l'Odeon | Sixth Arrondissement, Paris, France
We stay at the Relais St Germain but every time we have past L’Avant Comptoir it has been too packed to even attempt to squeeze in the door. This time there seemed to be room so we sidled in and found a place in the back. Are we glad we did!! Everything was wonderful but we especially loved the gazpacho with shredded crab (6€) and I think tiny cubes of cucumber and nuts. Another standout was the foie gras brochette- need I say more?

Market at Le Bugue- at the olive stand there was an artichoke dip that the owner said was his personal recipe. Fabulous!! I think it was made with marinated artichoke hearts with some sun dried tomatoes. I tried to make this and DH said I put in too much tomato. I will keep trying. We should have bought more.
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Old Aug 5th, 2012, 07:17 AM
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Thanks for sharing AG.
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Old Aug 5th, 2012, 08:29 AM
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Oh, boy, I'm saving this! very nice descriptions and AG, you have great taste!!
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Old Aug 5th, 2012, 11:10 AM
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This brings back wonderful memories of sharing meals together......I want to do that again...soon...
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Old Aug 5th, 2012, 06:31 PM
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Mmm, we loved l'Auberge du 15 this May. I had the tuna, but our hands-down favorite starter was the chilled almond and fennel (? we think) soup my mom had. Of course it was beastly hot when we were there. Also loved the lamb and cote du veau.

I haven't been back to the Dordogne in over five years. Now I want to return--soon.
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Old Aug 6th, 2012, 01:25 AM
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Glad to hear that you enjoyed le Vieux Logis (we're going tomorrow) and La Gabarre, our 'local' Both really good choices. Regarding not knowing French terms - the last time we were at the Gabarre we talked to an Australian couple who said they had enjoyed the meal, except for the veal, which they liked, but found quite odd. Of course they didn't understand that ris de veau is sweetbreads of veal. Not veal with rice (riz)

Our feeling about Le Grand Bleu is unfortunately very similar to yours. We haven't been often, but have never felt welcome. We too asked about a dish and were given virtually no information - and we speak French, and live here. I find it hard to believe that Le Vieux Logis and Le Grand Bleu are both one star Michelin. To me they are not in the same class at all.

Your comments about wine reminded me of a similar experience in Toronto. I had arrived a little early, and ordered a glass of red wine while I was waiting. My husband arrived just as the waitress brought the glass, and he asked 'could you tell me a little about the wine?' She looked rather perplexed and said 'It's red.' That was as much as she knew.

Normally French staff are much more knowledgeable, but occasionally not welcoming, particularly in restaurants that receive a lot of tourists. We went to an Alain Ducasse restaurant (Benoit?) and were surrounded by Americans, and really felt we were treated as tourists who didn't know much. Won't go back.
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Old Aug 6th, 2012, 02:32 AM
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"We should have bought more."

Story of my life.
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Old Aug 6th, 2012, 04:11 AM
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Thanks for the comments.

Traviata-we are hoping for March. Keep your fingers crossed.

Carlux- Definitely don't understand how Vieux Logis and Le Grand Bleu are both Michelin one star. Yes, ris de veau is a definite difference from veal with rice.

Nikki- I finally learned that I regret not buying more than buying. I bought a gorgeous handmade basket at Le Bugue market. Thought I would use it for picking produce in the garden but think it is too nice for that.
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Old Aug 6th, 2012, 04:30 AM
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Where is Le Bugue? I want some of that dip.
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Old Aug 6th, 2012, 05:17 AM
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"March" ?????!!!!!! Fingers, arms, legs crossed !!
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Old Aug 6th, 2012, 05:20 AM
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Micheline- it is in the Dordogne http://www.northofthedordogne.com/le-bugue.php
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Old Aug 6th, 2012, 05:46 AM
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Thanks for giving us more ideas for our upcoming Dordogne----Paris trip. The details are always appreciated.
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Old Aug 6th, 2012, 04:08 PM
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Happy belated anniversary and thanks for your report! I need to get myself to L'Auberge du 15 next time.
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Old Aug 6th, 2012, 04:18 PM
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I always buy tons of saffron from the Olive Guy at the Le Bugue Market. Was his wife making her paella? That's really good, too.
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Old Aug 7th, 2012, 05:34 AM
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I didn't notice saffron and am sorry to miss it. Since we were on our way to Vieux Logis we weren't really looking to buy food.
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Old Aug 7th, 2012, 08:41 AM
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In fact there are a number of people who grow saffron now - we've bought from someone near Cenac/St Julien, who contributed to a course at La Gabarre, St Julien de Lampon ( a different St Julien) Also someone whoe goes to the market at St Genies.
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Old Aug 7th, 2012, 09:08 AM
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A simple salad of gesiers will always make me happy in Dordogne.
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Old Aug 7th, 2012, 09:39 AM
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