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Road trip Paris to Carcassonne via Dordogne & Languedoc

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Road trip Paris to Carcassonne via Dordogne & Languedoc

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Old Nov 4th, 2008, 10:49 AM
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Road trip Paris to Carcassonne via Dordogne & Languedoc

Planning a May road trip from Paris through standing stones, caves, wineries, massive slabs of foie gras, craggy cliffs, magnificent rivers, Templars and maybe even a hit into Lourdes just to balance the Templars. I am requesting suggestions on routes for best scenery, food and hotels. We are open to all price ranges from basic to luxury (we do like to mix it up) but the food must be great and the beds must be soft. We have 10 to 12 days for the drive returning to Paris by rail or air.
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Old Nov 4th, 2008, 01:51 PM
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Over 20 years ago we did a route from the Loire and south via Limoges, Perigeux, Brive, Sarlat, Cahors and Albi to Carcassonne.

This summer past we went north from
Carcassonne via the Millau Viaduct.
This engineering marvel is worth seeing. We then drove through the Gorges du Tarn marveling at nature's engineering to Ste Enimie and on to le Puy. As Michelin
would say... "Worth a detour".

In le Puy we stayed at the Hotel du Parc in their new Lafayette Suite.
Very nice... best hotel bathroom and shower we've ever seen. The restaurant is highly regarded though a bit OTT for us after a day of driving.

Rob
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Old Nov 4th, 2008, 02:15 PM
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You'll be inundated with advice.

The challenge is how to get from Paris to, say, the latiatude of Limoges or Brive. There's the Loire. But there's not much else of interest en route, IMO.

From Limoges or Brive it's easy to find things of interest-- the problem is embarras de choix.

I'd take the N 20 south from the Dordogne toward Toulouse. You could take the toll autoroute but why bother? The N 20 is almost as fast and even more picturesque.

In May the Dordogne could be lovely. I never stop recommending that people go upriver a bit to the area of Beaulieu sur Dordogne, Collonges-la-Rouge, Martel, Turenne, St Cere.

It's *another* Dordogne from the Beynac/ Sarlat/ St Cyprien/ Domme type of villages you'll find downstream.

When in the "downstream" area, be sure to see the gardens of Meyssac and Eyrignac. I'm not an enthusiast of French gardens but these 2 had me spellbound.

South of the Dordogne -- having carefully avoided the tourist trap of Rocamadour and charmless though Fodorite-favoured St Cirq Lapopie -- you should definitely visit Albi. The Toulouse Lautrec museum has a remarkable collection, BTW.

The Millau viaduct is no big deal. I love heights, love vistas but was kinda bored. There are interesting things to see on that road - Severac le Chateau, for instance. But it is really not worth a detour.

Just a few random suggestions.
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Old Nov 4th, 2008, 03:38 PM
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to tedgale- skip Rocamadour and St Cirq?

I am planning a return trip to Paris and S. France for June, and thought I should include those 2 places.

Went to Paris, Bordeaux, road trip to Sarlat, and train from Brive back to Paris (4 hrs) in Oct. with a girlfriend and loved it. When I got home and shared the trip/pics with my husband, he thought it looked great! So, we are returning to the area in June as a family, with an emphasis on Provence. But I thought Rocamadour looked interesting, and had wanted to overnight in a small village for a couple of nights(maybe st cirq).

In Oct., we spent 4 nights in Paris. Then took the train to Bordeaux (3 hrs). Spent 2 nights in Bordeaux and took a day long tour which included the wine merchants area of Bordeaux (a walk around the city) and a visit to 2 wineries in the Medoc area. The guide was informative and it was a nice overview of the wine region. The vineyards were gorgeous gold and the sun was shining! We then rented a car and drove east to Sarlat. Stopped in St. Emillion, and enjoyed the market on Sunday. Stopped at Bergerac (only OK). Spent 2 nights in Sarlat at Les Cordeliers. The room overlooked the square and had soft comfy beds. Great bathroom with a shower and large tub. Very large room and clean. They had complimentary water, soft drinks and snacks, highly recommend. The English host was extremely friendly and helpful. Good breakfast to start our day with fresh squeezed OJ. Sarlat is scenic and great to wander around in, without getting to lost. Had a great dinner at le Petit Manoir. Sarlat is a good base to explore from, and we went to Domme, Beynac and La Roque-Gageac. We thought the scenery was great. It was the end of tourist season, so there were no crowds, really felt like we had the villages to ourselves. Drove from Sarlat to Brive (about 1 hr) and took the train to spend final night in Paris.



 
Old Nov 4th, 2008, 04:51 PM
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St-Cirq-Lapopie is not a "small village." It's a tourist mecca and thoroughly unrepresentative of a typical regional town. Loads of people seem to find it appealing, though. Not sure why.

Rocamadour I'm ambivalent about. It IS the "deuxième site de France" for pilgrimages, and there's all the history associated with it and the black virgin and all, but personally I'd rather wander around Martel or Collnges-la-Rouge or Céré any day. But really, given your short timeframe, you may not make it to those, either.

But mudlush, I think generally speaking you are biting of a HUGE amount of territory to cover in 10-12 days. Especially if you begin the drive in Paris instead of, say, taking a TVG to Bordeaux or Brive or Toulouse. You need to winnow this list of yours down considerably, or else it's going to be a "driveby" vacation.
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Old Nov 5th, 2008, 08:54 AM
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I agree with the other comments about St-Cirq-Lapopie and Rocamadour. The best thing about Rocamadour, IMHO, is the view of it from across the valley, but I wouldn't go out of my way just for that. I thought St-Cirq-Lapopie was pretty, but very touristy.

We went to Rocamadour because we were in the area at the request of our 12yo DS, because it was his birthday, and he wanted to visit Gouffre du Padirac. That was mildly interesting; our son enjoyed it very much (but what he still talks about are the cave paintings at Font du Gaume).

We visited St-Cirq-Lapopie after we visited Pech Merle, which was VERY worthy of a visit. St-Cirq was close enough for us to stop for lunch. We had a scenic lunch, wandered around for about 15 minutes, and that was enough for us.

To the original poster, if you're starting in Paris, consider taking the train to Brive or Borbeaux, and driving from there.
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Old Nov 5th, 2008, 09:47 AM
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Thanks for the input on Rocamadour and St-Cirq-Lapopie! We won't go out of our way. We wanted to see some of the caves in the area, so thanks for the input about Pech Merle. My daughter is 12yo and would really love the caves along with my husband (I'm claustophobic, so it's not for me).
We are debating whether to choose the Provence area, and are just starting the research. I think my daughter would like Carcassonne, the ampitheater (Nimes), maybe the Roman Theater in Orange. Oh, and the calanques. Any comments?

My husband wants to include Rome (I know it sounds like a reach), we missed it on our last trip to Italy.

Our trip looks so far like-
Paris 5 nights-train to Brive and rent car
Dordogne, Carcassonne 2 or 3 nights
Somewhere around Nimes or ? -3 nights
Drive to Nice, take train from Nice to Genoa and go to Cinque Terre or Lucca -stay in Cinque Terre or Lucca 3 nights.
Take train to Pisa, then Pisa to Rome for 2 nights

We are going in June, and don't like to feel like I'm at Disneyland, with all the crowds :0
Maybe we should leave out Lucca or CT. But, I think my daughter would love the bike ride in Lucca or hiking in CT. Lucca seems quieter and a place you could really soak up some atmosphere, especially at night.
We had thought about the Siena area, but it seems to touristy, and it might be better to add that on when we do another trip to Florence (someday).
We do tend to like off the beaten path places and would like to stay in smaller villages, but with good restuarant selections. Anyway, sorry to ask so many questions on mudlush's thread.

 
Old Nov 5th, 2008, 10:57 AM
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Trippygirl - I think you're trying to cram way too much into your trip. 2-3 nights in the Dordogne/Carcassonne area is really 1 1/2 to 2 1/2 days - which won't even scratch the surface of that beautiful region.

Same for Provence - 2-3 days is only 1 1/2 to 2 1/2.

Remember, shops & many sits close for lunch, and shops in many cities & villages are closed on Sunday & Monday mornings too. You can't pack as much into a day in Europe as you can in the US.

Trying to add in CT, Tuscany, and Rome will make your vacation feel like a "transportation" tour - not a sightseeing tour.

I would just stop in Nice & fly home from there. That drive to Nice from Nimes, returning a car, taking the train, getting to Genoa, then on to the Cinque Terra or Lucca will take most of a day. I've taken that train route, and it is not as senic as it may seem.

I would just recomend:
1. Paris 5 nights
2. Take train to Brive and spend 4 nights in the Dordogne - near Sarlat or Beynac
3. Leave the Dordogne for Provence - visiting Carcassonne along the way (remember the lunch closing for the tour). Stay in Provence - St Remy perhaps - and spend 4 nights there. If your vacation is the last of June - it will be lavender season. Lots of bike opportunities - expecially in the Luberon.
4. Drive to Nice, dump the car, and spend a couple of nights there.
5. Fly home from Nice

Save Italy for later.

Stu Dudley
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Old Nov 5th, 2008, 11:04 AM
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I agree with Stu, trippygirl...you're all OVER the place with that itinerary. It won't be fun, and you'll miss so much.

Stu's suggestions are spot-on.
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Old Nov 5th, 2008, 03:18 PM
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So many choices-thanks for the reality check! I had looked at St Remy for a base when in Provence, and I like the idea of staying in Dordogne longer. More research............
 
Old Nov 5th, 2008, 09:34 PM
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We made a similar trip to yours with our then-12yo DS two years ago. DH and I had visited the Dordogne for the first time several years before that, and I knew DS would love it too.

We started out in Barcelona, then spent 3 days/nights going from there through the Languedoc (just getting a taste) to the Dordogne. We stayed right in Sarlat for 4 nights, then took the train to Paris, where we ended our trip with 2 nights there (we'd visited Paris previously with DS). Sarlat worked well for us. We stayed in a B&B, and there were plenty of cafes to relax at. The town was quiet enough (we were there in late May/early June) that we were comfortable with DS staying in the hotel room by himself, while we had a drink in the square below, and for him to wander around a bit without us (but in sight of where we were).

While he enjoyed the entire trip, his favorites in France were Font du Gaume, Gouffre du Padirac, and the Cathar castle of Peyrepertuse (in the Languedoc). The one thing that seems to have made the most lasting impression were the paintings in Font du Gaume; he still talks about them.

When planning that trip, we initially were deciding between Provence and the Dordogne. We ended up choosing the Dordogne because of its more lush beauty, the fantastic food (it helps that I love foie gras), and the multitude of castles - we'd established on a previous trip that we all, but especially DS, love castles, particularly the older ones.

Enjoy planning your trip!
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Old Nov 10th, 2008, 02:50 PM
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So back to my original inquiry. Can anyone recommend specific routes, specific hotels, specific restaurants, specific sights for our cruise down the roads of western France?
Also fascinated by the Templars. Anyone have any suggestions for dipping into this culture in Carcassonne?
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Old Nov 11th, 2008, 07:03 AM
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Perhaps you might want to invest in the Michelin Green Guide for France which will give highlights of what to see between Paris and Carcassonne?

I am not sure about the Templars in the Languedoc, but the Cathar heresy might be of interest (Google Albigensian Crusade).

You will find wine tasting in the Loire valley, and it now appears that every private chateau has its own label.
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Old Nov 11th, 2008, 07:48 AM
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Hey mud,

>Can anyone recommend specific routes, specific hotels, specific restaurants, specific sights for our cruise down the roads of western France?<

We are not travel agents or travel planners.

Do your homework. Come up with a draft itinerary and we will help you improve it.

We are partial to small hotels and B&Bs recommended by
www.logis-de-france.fr/uk/recherch/index-ca.htm



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Old Nov 11th, 2008, 09:02 AM
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<< Can anyone recommend specific routes, specific hotels, specific restaurants, specific sights for our cruise down the roads of western France?>>

Have you changed your itinerary again?

Where in western France are you headed now?
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Old Nov 16th, 2008, 01:04 PM
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My, aren't we all cranky? I have noticed this attitude on other threads. What is it about anonymity that encourages this behavior? Just asking--------. So assuming that we can all play nice let me say that I see no difference in asking for specific information than any of the other questions on these posts. And as to change of direction, no, there is none. Same general plan. A couple of years ago we drove across northern Spain and after asking the same questions I got wonderful, helpful answers. So if anyone out there is so inclined, thanks in advance. If not, well~~~~~~~
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Old Nov 16th, 2008, 02:58 PM
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Mudlush.

I think some of the responses you have received were "mixed in" with responses intended for trippygirl - who kinda hijacked your thread.

I don't know how much time you have spent in France. If you want to sample western France, the Dordogne, and the Languedoc - I would budget no less than 8 weeks. Unfortunatly, you have only 10-12 days. We've spent 8 weeks in the Dordogne, plus another 8-9 in the Languedoc. Do you realize that the Languedoc goes all the way from the Costa Brava in Spain to Provence - quite a large area.

St Cirq has spent more time than I have in that region - she has a second home in the Dordogne and has owned it for a long time. Both her & I kinda "flash" when someone wants to know how to visit this region in 10-12 days. You can get a very small sample - but you're missing so much of you just do a "drive by".

If this was my trip, I would forgo everything between Paris and the Dordogne this time, and just concentrate your time on the Dordogne and a small section of the Languedoc - perhaps Cahors & surrounding area (Peche Merle, Cele river, St Cirq Lapopie), Gorges de l'Aveyron, Albi, Toulouse, Carcassonne, Gorges du Tarn, and the stalactite & mite caves around the Gorges du Tarn and Ganges. Depart back to Paris on the TGV or plane from Montpellier.

However, this is a VERY intense itinerary for just 12 days.

We're having a very nice heatwave here in San Francisco (80s). If it were raining & cold I would spend more time on suggestions. In the mean time, e-mail me at [email protected] & I'll send you my 20 page itinerary for the Dordogne, & 35 page itinerry for the Languedoc. I've sent various itineraries to over 1,000 Fodorites so far.

Stu Dudley
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Old Nov 16th, 2008, 03:35 PM
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I certainly have to agree with Stu. I have been in all these areas and know how much time you really need, without just flying by eveything.

It seems quite natural for people to find twice as many places to see in the small amount of time that they have.

It is far more enjoyable to plan less and have some places that you might go to "if" time allows.

This is just my opinion and from my experience.

Planning is fun....enjoy it all.

a bientot..

Joan
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Old Nov 16th, 2008, 03:43 PM
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I'll disagree with StuDudley. Yes, it would be wonderful to spend ten or more days in the area, but it can also be sampled in three or four days. That's how our friends who come to visit do it. And it is especially true if the visitor concentrates on the main tourist triangle of Sarlat, Montignac and Le Bugue.
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Old Nov 16th, 2008, 05:06 PM
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>>if the visitor concentrates on the main tourist triangle of Sarlat, Montignac and Le Bugue.<<

That's only about 1/4 of what I enjoy in the Dordogne/Perigord.

This misses the Dordogne river itself, Beynac, Roque Gageac, Castelnaud, Domme, Belves, Montpazier, Brantome, Perigueux, Ch Hautfort, Collognes la Rouge, Rocamadour, Martel, Padirac, Lacave, Ch Bonaguil, Ch Milendes, Peche Merle, Cahors, St Cirq Lapopie, Cele River, Figeac, & more.

I think a driving itinerary that starts in Paris, includes a scenic drive through western France to the Dordogne (2-3 nights?), explores the Dordogne & surrounds, scenic drives & stops in Lourdes & Carcassonne, explores the "rugged" Languedoc (Gorges du Tarn, Lot River, Conques, many caves etc), and ends at a place where you can get back to Paris by air or TGV (Montpellier) - would not be enjoyable for me in only 10-12 days. This sounds like my first trip to Europe in '77.

Stu Dudley

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