Erica

It's taken a bit, but here's the complete version of W&E's Excellent European Adventure, from 11/18/00 -- 11/28/00 (Amsterdam, Brussels, Paris). Since folks on another string have asked a/b our trip, I thought I'd include everything here. I'm happy to ans. any questions!

Erica

<BR>AMSTERDAM. <BR> <BR>Steeped in history and wealth, yet laid back, we had a ball there. <BR>Venice gets all the credit for canals, but I thought Amsterdam's were quite romantic, along w/ the small side streets. And yes, we had a lot of Heineckens (sp?) there. <BR> <BR>We were was less than thrilled with our actual room at the Eden; the bathroom had this mildew-y smell and our cable was out almost the entire time. Our room was bigger than we expected but not <BR>palatial (which I don't ever count on). And yes, we had the 2 twin-sized beds pushed togther. They had a nice restaurant downstairs, the food wasn't bad but I still think overpriced. The breakfast room was big and there were lots of choices in food (b'fast is included which is good b/c it's hard to find too many b'fast places). BUT -- the location of the hotel was great. The Eden is on the Amstel river directly across from the Opera house and city hall, and Rembrandtplein is right behind the hotel, where there lots of cafes and restaurants. And it's an extremely walkable city -- you're walking distance to Rembrandthuis museum and many other great places. So, based on location and price the Eden gets an A. But on other standards, expect it there. We knew we'd be out and a/b so we were cool w/ it but our next visit to Amsterdam will be spent in a more luxurious hotel. <BR>

Erica

Here are some parting thoughts regarding Amersterdam: <BR>-CANAL BOATS: I'd definitely emphasize using the canal boats w/ other clients. It's a neat, romantic, fun way to get your bearings and see the layout of the city. <BR>-MUSEUMS: The museums are WONDERFUL!! We visited Rembrandthuis, Van Gogh, Anne Frankhuis Rijiksmuseum and Stijiksmuseum (sp?) while there. -EXCHANGE RATE: When we were there, the exchange rate was 1 guilder = $1.81 -- not bad. <BR>-LANGUAGE: In Amsterdam, one heard quite a few languages, so it wasn't as difficult to make our way, although we made a point to offer lots of "bedankts" & "dank u" while there. <BR>-WHAT I DIDN'T EXPECT: The dog-doo. Do watch the dog do. What I hadn't expected was to have to dodge more dog poop than in Paris, which is exactly what ended up happening. <BR>-ONLY GRIPE: We arrived during the Dutch celebration of Christmas, and their "Santa Claus" tradition. Unfortunately, it features some "Black Peter" character which features someone in blackface -- glad I didn't go to see THAT. I'd actually heard that there's been discussion and protest within the country over the continued use of this blackface. The arrival of "Sinterclaus" (sp?) was covered widely in the news, but interestingly, the news also covered a big gospel fest that was taking place that same day, with spirituals/gospel songs sung in both English and Dutch, which was good. <BR>-IN GENERAL: We were treated well. The Dutch were not overly friendly but not at all rude. The city is very walkable and pretty clean.And there were always people hangin' out in Rembrantplein. Great vibe, hated to leave. <BR>

Erica

Oh, and before I forget, the nightlife: <BR>if you offend easily, you might want to <BR>find something more sedate. You'll see sex shops outside the red light district. Also, a word a/b the coffeehouses...they're seemingly everywhere, so if you object strongly to marijuana, well -- it would be hard not catch a whiff at night, but otherwise you'll be OK. It's frowned upon to just light up anywhere and technically it's <BR>illegal but the police tolerate it if in a coffeehouse. We didn't really get a chance to explore the red light <BR>district, were really on the outer rim of the area. We also didn't get a chance to go the sex museum and the <BR>marijuana/hash museum, which I heard was <BR>really interesting -- honest. ;&lt

Erica

THALYS TO BRUSSELS <BR> <BR>We absolutely loved the Thalys. Didn't feel a bump! And there's <BR>absolutely no reason why anyone should pay for first class on the trains b/c I don't see what you're paying extra for. Once you get to the train station in Brussels, there's a secure area to hold luggage for a/b 60FF per piece. There's also an information area for tourist information. Since we didn't have long, we opted for the the "hop on, hop off" bus for a quick tour. The train station also has a tram that will take you to the Grand Place, among other places. Brussels is beautiful but it was impossible to get a real feel for the city but my impression is that it feels very "international" and cosmopolitan...with lots of people on the move. Do remind anyone who wants to visit Brussels that French is the main language you'll hear spoken there, but you'll also find English spoken there as well. Back on the Thalys, we headed for Paris. One thing a/b the train station in Paris though (I forget the name!): some folks there definitely had a hustle, and there are many people offering rides, hotels that are a bargain, and so on. If you have information, go to the booths, and not a stranger. Also, do watch for pickpockets. While in the Brussels train station, there was this creepy guy we passed on our way to the ATM machine, which was outside of the station. When we walked back in the station, the creepy guy started to walk w/ us -- at this point my husband gave him a "don't f--- w/ me look" and I quickened my step. As exciting as travel is, stay on your guard. <BR>

Erica

THALYS FROM BRUSSELS TO PARIS <BR> <BR>Paris was absolutely everything I dreamed it would be...and then <BR>some! How beautiful, how truly romantic, how steeped in history and culture...how soon can we get back?!?!?! The view from the Arc de Triomphe and the Eiffel Tower is stunning (it flickers w/ lights at the top of every hr from dusk to 2am for 10 min). The French take such pride in the preparation of their food and I now fully understand why -- it's incredible. Also absolutely liberating to have wine w/ lunch sans side-long glances! Tried escargot for the 1st time in Paris -- LOVED IT! The cheese is spectacular as well. Buy Cheap Eats Paris for great ideas...there were a couple of really good restaurants we visited. And as you'll see below, there are 2 more of our absolute favorites. <BR> <BR>A highlight was a walking tour called "Walking the Spriit" led by <BR>one incredible Julia Browne -- our walk was the "Artists, Writers, & Intellectuals in the Latin Quarter" tour, which traced the steps of James Baldwin, Richard Wright, Gertrude Stein. The walk mainly focused on African-American ex-pats, w/ emphasis on the post-WWII to civil rights period. We also met another couple from WDC-area We finished the walk by going to Percy's Place, a restaurant in the 16th. I HIGHLY, HIGHLY recommend a visit, for you will not be disappointed! The chef is a native Virginian (so are we) so it was a real kick to patronize his wonderful restaurant. Percy's emphasis is on Southern cuisine fused w/ European and the result is wonderful. But absolutely do yourself a favor by contacting Julia for a walking tour -- she is WONDERFUL & really makes the Latin Quarter come alive!! HIGHLY, HIGHLY recommended!!! We also did our own walking tour, roughly based on the walking tours in Time Out Paris...highly recommended. The book noted that Brasserie Lipp was well worth visiting, and they're not kidding. The food was wonderful and service was impeccable...not surprising, given that Lipp was a favorite of Francois Mitterand and visited by Lauren Becall and Jack Nicholson, among others. <BR>

Erica

The Hotel Queen Mary was absolutely wonderful. Located in the 8th <BR>arrondisment, this charming 3 star hotel was definitely worth every penny. It's a gorgeous, cozy hotel...lots of yellows and blues. And yes, you're welcomed w/ a decanter of sherry, which is very good and a GREAT touch since we were so tired after our arrival. We had a decent sized room -- again, not palatial, but certainly larger than I expected. Other touches include a mini-bar and a trouser press, and you can have breakfast in bed if you desire. There's also room service where they'll serve a limited amount of food. And the cable worked here! The service is very good -- the desk staff keeps your key while you're out exploring during the day, you can have a drink in the bar (which is charged to your account) and you can read the paper in the reception area (there's the Le Figaro, The Guardian, and the International Herald or Tribune which is basically the Washington Post and NY Times combinied -- that's free). Breakfast is included and is pretty good. <BR>

Erica

Here are some parting thoughts regarding Paris: <BR>-Le Metro: Do get a pass -- it's a wonderful way to get around the city! Though you only need to insert the metro ticket to get in the station (unlike in Washington, DC, where you have to insert the metro ticket to depart a metro station) you have to present it when asked or will be forced to pay up. Didn't happen to us, but better safe than sorry. <BR>-MUSEUMS: The museums are WONDERFUL!! If you know you'll visit lots of museums and monuments, do get a musuem pass. You can go to the front of the cue and won't have to pay, of course. We visited the Louvre (all day), Musee D'Osay, Arc de Triomphe, Musee Marmotten-Monet, the Eiffel Tower (of course!) and rode a Ferris wheel near the Tuileries Gardens, which we also visited. <BR>-CURRENCY: $1=7.40FF. Not bad. <BR>-LANGUAGE: French did not at all live up to the snobbish and rude stereotype -- quite the opposite. Whoever the Fordorite was who emphasized using lots of bonjours/bonsoirs, pleases, madames and sirs would get you very far in Paris was not lying!! Do not launch into English immediately!! Even if someone says they don't speak English, if you try in French they'll try in English. Some were probably a bit amused but happy that we tried to speak our "Baby French" (as we called it) but no one was ever rude or snide to us, which is more than I can say a/b the service on British Airways but that's another story. -WHAT I DIDN'T EXPECT: Motorcycles! Half the city seemed to be zooming by on one. <BR>-ONLY GRIPE: The smoking, which wasn't nearly as bad as I was prepared for. I just don't understand. However, we did not ask for non-smoking tables, etc., we just dealt w/ it. <BR>-IN GENERAL: I'm already planning our return for next year! I find the French very charming and polite, but not in a phony or over-the-top way. <BR> <BR> <BR> <BR> <BR> <BR> <BR>

Erica

I forgot to add a/b the Paris museum pass: it won't let you in at the Eiffel tower or private museums (i.e. not public or government run).

Sandy

Wow! Erica! Perfect posts! We're going to Paris (3rd time) in late April then on to Amsterdam (1st time) by Thayls. <BR> Where is the gare (train station) in Paris for the Thayls? Did you buy your tickets from the U.S.? We usually buy point to point tickets once we get to Paris but we're concerned the trains might be booked already. (We had a horrible time booking an Amsterdam hotel- including the Eden - way back in mid-November: all Best Westerns were booked even into Sept & Oct.) <BR> Did you find ATMS readily available in Amsterdam? Any day trips (by train) to recommend? <BR> Thanks. <BR>Sandy <BR>

Erica

You'll love the trains, and you'll love Amsterdam. The train station to get the Thalys is the Gare du Nord. We did purchase our Thalys tickets here which I think is 1) easier on you and 2) cheaper. <BR> <BR>I'm also not surprised that the Eden was still full. The front desk's phone rang off the hook, and they reported that they were booked up to New Year's. I'm not saying it was a horrible hotel, but if you were looking for a little something extra or unique, it's not happening there. Oh, and I forgot to tell you that we visited during the High Times celebration week, which we learned is every 3rd wk of November. Lots of events in to "celebrate" so to speak. Anyway...ATMs are pretty easy to spot, which is important since lots of establishments prefer cash to plastic. And do ask first, very important not to assume they accept credit cards. Unfortunately, we didn't have time for side trips b/c we were only in Amsterdam for 4 nights...really only enough to scratch the surface of the city. According to my brother, Rotterdam is cool and on our next visit, we'd like to see the Hague. So unfortunately I can't give you any info on that. <BR> <BR>So where will you be staying in Paris when you visit in April? I saw the Hotel d'Aubusson during our walking tour and was thinking a/b staying there next time since we tended to explore the right bank more (since that's where the hotel is) and would like to explore the left bank a bit more. That's not to say that we didn't just LOVE the Hotel Queen Mary b/c we did.

Maira

Erica--- SUPERB posts! Absolutely vivid and lovely descriptions. Your trip sounds like a truly wonderful experience. Thanks for sharing!

Sjoerd

Erica, when did you visit Amsterdam? One guilder equals about US$ 0.40 today, not US$ 1.81 as you say. <BR>Sinterklaas and Zwarte Piet ("Black Peter") is a century old tradition in the Netherlands. A very small group of activists protested against "the black servant stereotype" a few years ago, but they were told to shut up by 99% of the population, including most of the black community. It is just a party and tradition.

Annette

Erica, I don't ususally pick a bone here (and don't get me wrong, it isn't a big deal), still I'm surprised one of the sophisticates here at Fodors visits a foreign country and then questions their traditions. I believe Black Peter dates back to the time of centuries ago Spanish rule, and thus the Black Moor. Everyone knows the Dutch are tolerant and non-racist. They have embraced their Indonesian population, for instance. <BR> <BR>I was there during the eve of Sinterklaasvond and our hotel, the Estherea, presented my 11 year old daughter with a Dutch doll for the holiday. Pretty classy, I thought. Yes, Sinterklaas and Black Peter were out on the street and it was delightful for my kid. <BR> <BR>BTW my daughter adored all the darling dogs on leashes in the city. What's a little poo!

Thyra

Erica, great post... the observation about the dog waste got me to laughing...I haven't been to Amsterdam since 1985, but I remember they used to have postcards of dog poop with the words welcome to Amsterdam above it.... I was under the impression that the "Black Peter" thing, was very very old... and was more in reference to what the character was Wearing then the color of his skin? But I guess that is not the case. Well I am glad you had a very safe and wonderful time.

Caitlin

Thanks for your report, Erica! It definitely reinforced my current desire to visit Amsterdam sometime soon.

Sandy

Erica, <BR>Thanks for the info. <BR> You said you purchased your Thayls train tickets "here," which I'm assuming you meant in the U.S. You also said they were cheaper - but I thought buying them here (through RailEurope?) runs 20-30% more than buying them in Europe. <BR> We'll be staying at the Hotel Toren in Amsterdam, which we heard about through this forum. <BR> What were your experiences with the food in Amsterdam? We heard there is excellent Indonesian food & something about "rice tables." <BR> Sandy

Erica

Sorry it's taken me a bit to ans. your questions/comments, all pretty good. <BR> <BR>First, a/b the Black Peter thing: I have an immediate reaction to blackface -- it's negative. Period. There are some traditions in this country that could go the way of the dodo and I wouldn't shed a tear. Also, it's a mistake to apply current Dutch standards and attitudes to those of the past, and I don't think it was nearly as progressive then as now. Which is why seeing it really surprised me, b/c it seems quite unsophisticated to have some character bouncing around in blackface. If it's really so harmless, then why sound so defensive a/b ("99% of the population told them to shut up" is much different than "I don't understand your objection, it's a children's tradition). And I don't know if Indonesians themselves would agree w/ their that they've had fair treatment b/c accd. to everything I've read, that wasn't the case until recently. Of course, we could start an entirely new thread on that but the point is that I simply shared my impressions, that was one of the many but I had a great time there. <BR> <BR>Food: My favorite topic! But unfortunately, I can't speak to the rice tables and we didn't have Indonesian cuisine. We had mainly Middle Eastern and Thai and it was good. I didn't even have the mussels that I was SO looking forward to enjoying!!! That alone is enough to warrant another trip. I did however have some "baby cod" which is I think is somewhat a misnomer b/c they were HUGE and quite yummy. I did have a lot of frites...much better than our fries. <BR> <BR>Oh and as far as the poop...our tour guide in Paris probably thought we made too much of our poop avoidance...I'm sure she was laughing all the way home!

Marzy

Erica: <BR>Some people do not understand some things because they can't, others choose not to understand. Enough said. We will be visting in June with our children ages 7 and 10. Our 10 year has become very "consious." Do you think the tour concerning the ex-patriots may be a little too advanced for kids this age? How long is it?

Erica

Marzy, that was VERY well put. A/b the tour, though: it was either 2 or 2.5 hrs and the time flew by. It may be a bit much for a 10 yr. old...may get a bit bored, but if precocious...I think a good time for a young person is when they really start delving into literature. Again, your child may know much more a/b Richard Wright than I did at that age, considering how much children absorb now (my nieces totally amaze me, but that's another story!). If you want more information a/b Julia and her walks, let me know.