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Our December in Andalucia

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Our December in Andalucia

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Old Feb 7th, 2024, 11:17 PM
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Restaurants:

Starting with our favorite, Petit Comitethank you Maribel for the recommendation! This charming small restaurant featured Spanish and French-influenced delicious food. We had a long relaxing dinner in one of the intimate rooms, had amazing service, and then had drinks with the owner and staff in the bar afterward. We all agreed that the low cow loin tataki was the best entrée of the evening! We went to Petit Comite during one of our last nights in Sevilla or we would’ve definitely gone back again. Truly, it was a night to remember!


The gorgeous bar after dinner at Petit Comite

Tradevo Centro was another wonderful recommendation from Maribel! Plambers also had been a couple of times during a family trip so with two endorsements, we walked in and as luck would have it, we were able to get a table for lunch. We liked it so much that we went back a second time on Christmas Eve! Located on a small square, there were tables inside and outside with heat lamps. The Taco de Gambon en tempura was one of the best dishes we had during our entire three weeks.


Tradevo Centro

Tradevo Centro

Tradevo Centro

La Azotea on Conde de Barajas was amazing! Our experience started out a touch stressful because our reservation was never confirmed. I made all of the reservations via restaurant websites, email or Instagram. I usually got a response back but I did not from La Azotea so my husband, daughter and I walked over to give it a try. Initially, the host or waiter told us that there wasn’t any room in the main restaurant. He offered a table to us across the street but it wasn’t the experience we were looking for. Eventually, he told us to have a drink “on him” and he would find us a table. We had a lovely cocktail hour then landed at a beautiful table in the second room. Lovely, small tables and a fun atmosphere, we did what we typically do and told the waiter to bring us his favorite. We started with the taco with red tuna and the steak tartar. Both were wonderful! Our main courses were good but these two appetizers took the prize.

La Azotea on Mateos Gagos was our go-to for breakfast. It was a pretty restaurant just a 7-8 minute walk from our apartment. I think we enjoyed 5-7 breakfasts over the three weeks. This branch doesn’t have the same atmosphere or clientele as the other restaurant, but the food was delicious. We enjoyed what I’ll call American-style breakfast and brunch with pretty coffee drinks, tasty pancakes topped with fruit, yogurt parfait, and eggs and bacon.




Calle Mateos Gagos

Quiet streets in early-to-mid December

The other place we frequented for breakfast was Café Santa Cruz tucked away on a little plaza in Barrio Santa Cruz. We discovered this place one night when my husband and I were strolling to find a place for a pre-dinner cocktail. This relatively new restaurant has an inviting atmosphere, so we walked up to the bar and ordered a Bloody Mary and Espresso Martini. Our darling bartender looked at her notes to get the recipe -- and with a little help from my husband – mixed up two delicious cocktails. We found out they offered a fantastic breakfast menu that included everything from Eggs Benedict to scrambled eggs, yogurt, and oatmeal. This was another place that we frequented 4-5 times for breakfast in our 3 weeks.

We dined at Alfareria 21 twice! Again, thank you Maribel for the recommendation! This is a relatively new restaurant in Triana in former historic ceramics factory. It is stunning on the outside and very pretty indoors as well. There is a charming indoor courtyard and private tables in the old ceramics ovens. I had a very good lamb burger. And although I don’t remember what my husband had, he loved his meal – so much that we made a second reservation right then and there to bring our kids back when they arrived in town for Christmas week. I loved the atmosphere of this restaurant!


Alfareria 21, Stunning outside


And charming inside

We went to a wonderful little Italian restaurant on Mateos Gagos. It was the only restaurant we visited to on this street. L'Oca Giuliva. Another recommendation from Maribel, we went here 3 times! It had a light, modern but cozy atmosphere, an expansive menu and a good Italian wine list! Really solid Italian food, the grilled pork chop was delicious, as well as the Spaghetti alla carbonara and the pizzas!

A quick note about the street and Barrio Santa Cruz in general … these areas were not overly crowded until a few days before Christmas Weekend. We had been concerned about crowds and over-tourism, but most of December was lovely. Below are some pictures of quiet Santa Cruz. Starting about December 21st, the city filled up with tourists from all over the world. It was a completely different city! Bustling, full of energy, lines, crowds, and spirit-filled streets. More to come about that later!



















El rincón de Beirut on Calle San Fernando is a Lebanese restaurant that we frequented a few times. We love Middle Eastern food and this place had lovely tables outdoors, fantastic service and a great menu. We enjoyed kabobs, lentil soup, hummus and baba ghanoush!

Our favorite tapas bar was Bodeguita Antonio Romero Arfe. We discovered this place on our second day in Sevilla and frequented it 4-5 times. We typically stood or sat in the bar and had their famous Piripi – a little sandwich with pork, mayo and tomato.

All of these places had long wine lists for 4-5 euro a glass. And I can’t forget the TOMATOES! It seemed as though every restaurant offered tomatoes on their salad menu and they were out of this world! Full of flavor and served with olive oil and salt, we ordered them with almost every meal!

With that, I will take a break and be back with our favorite sights in Sevilla!

Last edited by lrice; Feb 7th, 2024 at 11:22 PM.
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Old Feb 8th, 2024, 01:02 AM
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Love your photos, lrice! You've really captured the essence of Sevilla through your beautiful photos. Kudos! And you were really blessed with the weather!
Your apartment rented through Genteel Homes looks absolutely lovely and so very much nicer than the one we had from Home Club. And I'm so glad the location turned out to be just right for you.
When we rented, in a little callejuela, next to "Las Columns" (the Bodega Santa Cruz on Rodrigo Caro in your photo), we also had our daily breakfasts at La Azotea on Mateos Gago.
Looking forward to hearing more about your adventures!
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Old Feb 8th, 2024, 07:45 AM
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Oh Wow!!!! What gorgeous photos! And I love your descriptions of the restaurants. That restaurant in Triana is stunningly beautiful! We had two dinners at La Azotea Calle Mateos Gago. Our favorite restaurant in Seville.

I agree with Maribel! You've really captured the essence and beauty of Seville! I wish we had taken more street photos. Seville is such a beautiful city! So happy to see the photo of you, lrice. It's nice to put a face with the name. And your apartment is gorgeous, too! What a find!

Your report and photos make me want to return to Seville!
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Old Feb 8th, 2024, 04:26 PM
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Love all the photos and information on all the restaurants. We are going to be there in about a month so taking lots of notes.
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Old Feb 9th, 2024, 05:41 AM
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I’m really enjoying your TR, lrice. Certainly saving it for future reference.
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Old Feb 15th, 2024, 10:10 PM
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Like you all said, Santa Cruz is soooo photogenic. Winding pedestrian streets, charming squares... we loved the architecture. Maribel, the apartment location was great! Out of the Christmas Week chaos but close to walk to everything within minutes.

Karen, you know my love for Aix, but Sevilla was amazing. Similar with well-dressed people, lovely shops, and restaurants -- but much more hustle and bustle with people out for the holidays -- it is a true city. Yet, it is charming and full of character. Very atmospheric. And so many grand historic sights to see!!

Paqngo, I will get my "don't miss" sights written up soon.

Studentobe, your posts were helpful to me; glad I can return the favor a bit.
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Old Feb 21st, 2024, 12:01 PM
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Enjoying your report!
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Old Feb 21st, 2024, 10:53 PM
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I’ve enjoyed slowly reading your report and your wonderful photos, what a treat to spend 3 weeks in one base.
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Old Feb 23rd, 2024, 03:54 PM
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What a wonderful trip report! I've been offline for a while dealing with some family illness so missed your planning stage, but so glad to see and hear about such a wonderful trip. I would love someday to go back to that part of Spain!
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Old Feb 25th, 2024, 01:14 PM
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I'm continuing to revel in the report and those lush, large photos..I. feel as if I am actually wandering those streets! And that apartment!! My, oh my!!

I think we ought to have a Fodor's get together in Andalucia sometime!!
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Old Feb 26th, 2024, 05:48 AM
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What a wonderful trip and TR—I’m savoring all the details. Thanks so much lrice
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Old Feb 28th, 2024, 10:00 PM
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Sites/Activities

Boy! Where do I start with the sights to see in Sevilla!

Difficult to pick a favorite! My husband would say his favorite activity was sitting on our apartment balcony overlooking Plaza de la Contratación, watching the horse-pulled carriages trot across while the Cathedral bells rang in the background.

Royal Alcázar
We signed up for a group tour with Sevilla Walking Tours. Tickets were 30 euro per person and included admission. We met Concepción outside of the Alcazar where she greeted our party of five and another family of the same number of people. Concepción was so very knowledgeable. A gifted storyteller, she was warm, clear, enthusiastic and engaging. We loved learning about the Islamic, Gothic, Renaissance, Baroque, and Romantic architecture and stories behind this formerly Moorish and later Christian palace. We were fascinated at the intricately carved and decorated columns, arches, walls and ceilings. And the gardens were one of the most gorgeous sights ever – we could have stayed all day! Another perk with tickets to the Royal Alcazar is free admission to:
Ceramic Museum in Triana
Antiquarium under Las Setas
Castle of San Jorge in Triana
Casa Bellver Museum in Triana
Church of El Salvador


Concepcion from Sevilla Walking Tours








The Seville Cathedral, also known as the Cathedral of Saint Mary of the See
We also signed up for a group tour with Sevilla Walking Tours and are so GLAD that we did! Alfonso was our guide and he was fantastic! He is the type of person one connects with, and we were sad to see the tour end. He was an expert historian, a witty and engaging storyteller! We got the fascinating history of how the Cathedral was built and the families involved. Alfonso gave us the history behind this massive place and its important works of art – the stories behind the sculptures, paintings, altarpieces, and the many people buried there. We truly felt the immensity of the cathedral and loved every minute of this tour.











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Old Feb 28th, 2024, 10:12 PM
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Palacio de las Duenas
With the audio guide playing, we entered this tranquil setting in the middle of bustling Seville. The history lesson and look back at the family who created this beautiful palace, chapel and garden was fascinating. I am grateful to the current family member who opened his home to the public so we can not only help him keep this place alive but get a glimpse of those who walked before us. Thank you Maribel for suggesting we visit this important piece of Seville's history.















Seville Museum of Fine Arts

WOW! This is another place that I highly recommend. Like many museums, this is several sights in one. Built in 1594, this gorgeous building was turned into a museum in 1835. The building it is housed in was originally home to the convent of the Order of the Merced Calzada de la Asunción. We wondered the halls for two hours and could have stayed longer taking in the works by artists – many from the 17th century, such as Murillo, Zurbarán, Francisco de Herrera the younger, and Valdés Leal. And for 1.50 Euro entrance fee, maitaitom is right - this is the best deal in town! Pictures below.















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Old Feb 28th, 2024, 10:17 PM
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Lrice,
Along with your wonderful photos that truly capture the essence of this beautiful city, I really, really admire your deep appreciation for all that you experienced!
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Old Feb 29th, 2024, 05:30 AM
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Wow! Your photos are gorgeous! Did you take them with an I phone? Or a "real" camera? I agree with Maribel. I really appreciate and enjoy your love and appreciation for all that you saw and experienced. Your wonderful attitude makes your TR even more enjoyable.

I love the Real Alcazar! It's one of my favorite sites, right up there with the Alhambra. We visited Casa di Pilato, which I enjoyed, but I wish we had time for the Palacio de las Duenas and the Seville Museum of Fine Arts. How many nights did you spend in Seville?
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Old Feb 29th, 2024, 07:07 AM
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Maribel, your love of Spain made my trip planning and travels so very enjoyable. I have a deep appreciation for your grace and kindness. I love Europe where both old and new live in harmony together. I continue to be awestruck with its deep roots.

And Karen, you are a joy to engage with and your travel is inspiring to me. I see your enthusiasm for the charm of the outdoor living rooms of Europe that I so enjoy. We were in Sevilla for 20 nights. This was my “month in Aix” but in Spain! A city where we could settle in and immerse ourselves in the culture and streets and traditions and people, but not be overwhelmed by size and sights.

I love the world’s great cities like Madrid, Paris, London and New York. But my real love is for these smaller cities and towns that I find truly livable for me. They ooze charm with pedestrian streets, markets where locals shop, the church bells ringing with my apartment window open, the tapas bar down the street where the bartender recognizes us when we walk in, and fashion and style that is carried by so many Europeans.

Speaking of Madrid, my time was way too short there. But I will finish this report and start a new one for that grand city!
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Old Feb 29th, 2024, 07:41 AM
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Your trip report is fantastic and brings back great memories. Hopefully we can make it back one more time. Looking forward to your Madrid part.
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Old Mar 2nd, 2024, 05:28 AM
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PLEASE continue this great report!!!!
I'm so eager to hear about your time in Madrid as I will be there in a few weeks!!!

LOVE those big, beautiful photos!!
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Old Mar 9th, 2024, 08:56 PM
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Thanks maitaitom and ekscrunchy!

A bit more on Sevilla!

Café Culture

This group knows that I always am in search of a tree-lined square rimmed with lively cafes filled with locals (and of course tourists) enjoying a slow coffee or wine. Barrio Santa Cruz has some charming small squares sheltered by trees with 1-2 restaurants. Perhaps it was the time of year, but it seemed like every time we walked over, the restaurants were closed or in full swing for a meal and packed. More of a place to truly eat versus sit for an hour with a glass of wine.

Plaza del Salvador with Iglesia Colegial del Divino Salvador was a great plaza to sit and people-watch. The plaza was livelier than the small quiet squares of Barrio Sant Cruz, had several cafes on it and always lots of holiday shoppers.

We walked through Plaza de la Alfalfa a couple of times. This seemed like more of a true local plaza with 3-4 restaurants on it. It might be such that if the weather was warmer, this plaza may have been bustling with people.

My favorite square with a charming restaurant, Taberna la Plazuela, under beautiful old trees was Plazuela de Santa Ana. Facing the stunning Catholic church, Real Parroquia de Señora Santa Ana in Triana, this place was oozing with authentic local charm. There was group of older men gathered for their afternoon meetup. They invited my husband to sing with them and I made sure I got pictures. A few other locals were enjoying a peaceful afternoon with the sun out. THIS was the square I was looking for. The perfect vibe for me. I could’ve spent every afternoon here!


Taberna la Plazuela


My tinto de verano and olives at Taberna la Plazuela


At Plazuela de Sta. Ana with "the boys" !Tapas, Bars and Coffee Culture

I mentioned above that we discovered Bodeguita Antonio Romero Arfe with the help of Maribel! We loved it immediately. While we never found that “charming café on a plaza” to frequent daily, we did find a neighborhood tapas bar! Very atmospheric, a great place for wine, and delicious tapas. We had chorizo fritters, stuffed zucchini, pringa sandwiches and their famous piripi. We must have gone 5-7 times Fun place – we were always able to find a table or place at the bar except one time when it was just too crowded. So instead of waiting, we moved on to a different place – Magallanes.

Magallanes is a real bar and just a bar. Small, cute place, good cocktails, nice crowd, also on Calle Arfe.

We also went to Robles Laredo on Calle Sierpes in Casco Antiguo, We loved this place because it was not on the main tourist drag of Av. de la Constitución yet still somewhat close to our apartment to go for coffee, cordials and dessert. It was small, a cute atmosphere and is where we bought our Roscon de Reyes for Christmas Day.

Two other bakeries that we loved were Confitería La Campana and Confiteria La Despensa de Palacio. I love the beautiful tins that both places sell with cookies, candies and such.















Last edited by lrice; Mar 9th, 2024 at 09:24 PM.
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Old Mar 9th, 2024, 09:08 PM
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Last note on Sevilla

I was struck by the religious art and Belens set up for Christmas throughout Sevilla. The painted tiles, statues, engravings, frescoes, and sculptures tucked into the architecture make it easy to revisit history. The cultural, artistic and religious spots seem to be at every turn in Sevilla. It was truly the most amazing journey through time.

















FAREWELL SEVILLA!

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