This Robert Browning quote seems an apt way to begin a trip report on Rome, Venice, and the Lakes - 2 weeks in October.

ROME - Saturday, October 11

There were four of us for the first week of this jaunt - my friend Martha and her two sisters, Mary and Sarah. Martha and Mary were first timers to Rome and Venice; Sarah and I had been before. Arrived Rome and was met by Lucca from Rome Limo Service ([email protected] web site: www.limoservicerome.com) which was a great deal for the four of us at 52€ plus tip. They sent a minivan when they heard it was four ladies with luggage! Our driver promptly whisked us away to Trastevere and since it was a Saturday, morning with little traffic, we arrived in about 30 minutes.

I had spent an afternoon in Trastevere during my last trip to Rome and thought it was a delightful neighborhood area and wanted to stay there. It was just as charming as I imagined it to be. We stayed at Hotel Trastevere (Tel: 39.06.58.14.713; Fax: 39.06.58.81.106) on Via Luciano Manara for 103€ per night for double rooms. The rooms each had two twin beds and a murphy bed although in one of the rooms if you unfolded the murphy bed you wouldn't be able to get to the bathroom. The showers were those teeny, tiny ones where you bump your elbows as you shampoo your hair. Very basic.

After dropping our luggage we went to the Colosseum and signed up with one of the guides outside for a one-hour tour for 18€ each including admission. It was a good deal since the admission is 10€ and the lines were very long to buy tickets. Our tour guide was quite enthusiastic and we enjoyed her immensely. This company also gives free guided tours of the Forum at 2:00 which we weren't able to get to.

I didn't like the new platform over the Colosseum floor. I thought the floor was unsightly and it obstructs the view of the galleries, but since it was put up for the millennium and is still there I guess it's staying.

St. Peter in Chains for a look at Michelangelo's Moses. They don't allow you to get up close to Moses any longer. There's a Plexiglas barrier about 10 feet from the sculpture and that's as close as you can get. Three years ago when I was there you could walk up to the rail that surrounds Moses. Even though you can no longer get close, it's still a spectacular sculpture.

I napped in the afternoon and the rest of the group went to Campo dei Fiori where I believe they shopped since I saw some new jewelry that afternoon. I woke up when they got back to the hotel and showered and went out for some wine while they collapsed for a while.

Walked around the corner to a local bar and asked for a glass of red wine but they only served white. So I sat outside at a table with red and white checkered cloths and had a glass of white wine with green olives brought to me on a tray for only 1.70€. Very cheap. There were locals at the other tables and I spent a relaxing half hour observing them. There were a couple of older ladies having gelato and a grandmother with her grandson having their gelato and two young and handsome priests eating pastries and drinking coffee. It was a beautiful, sunny, late afternoon in Rome on Via di Cosimato in Trastevere. When I returned to the hotel and reported that I had been drinking wine (I said I was going for a walk) there was some jealousy.

We went to Piazza Santa Maria to have a quick, early dinner but the restaurants weren't yet open. We wandered around and found Restaurant Pancotto on Via le Trastevere, 8-14. We had artichokes, spinach salad, and mesclum with pear and lots of shaved peccorino for starters followed by gnocchi infused with sage, gnocchi with tomato, mozzarella, and basil, fettuccine carbonara, and fettuccine bolognaise and Rosso di Montalcino wine. We skipped dessert since we had tickets for La Traviata at St. Paul within the Walls (San Paolo entro le Mura) on Via Nationale. The opera was performed around the altar and was a moving performance with the church giving off wonderful acoustics. This was booked through [email protected] website - culturalitaly.com. The tickets were 25€ with a $10 booking fee.

ROME ? Sunday, October 12

Up early and walked to San Francisco a Ripa church in Trastevere but there was a Mass so I walked to Portaportense Market for a few minutes before breakfast. After breakfast we headed to the Borghese Museum for the 11:00 admission (8.50&euro. You must reserve a spot at this museum and are only allowed two hours inside the musuem. Allow an extra half hour to pick up tickets and check all bags, even very small purses that go around your body. They will give you white plastic bags and tell you that you can put anything you want inside them. This was weird since the plastic bag was larger than my purse and was more cumbersome to carry.

From the entrance lobby, you used to be able to go up the main inside stair and could access both the first and second floors from this stairway. It seems that the access to the first floor had been blocked and the tour began by exiting the building and taking the external staircase to the first floor sculptures. To get to the second floor we exited the building again and came back through the ticket entrance and then up the inside stairs to the second floor. I wouldn?t want to be doing this in the middle of winter or during the rain since you have to check your jackets.

We were there with plenty of time and booked the 11:10 1.5 hour guided tour for 5€. The guided tour was excellent and well worth it the price. The main focus was on sculpture and on Bernini in particular (of course). I could rave on an on about Bernini?s sculptures.

If you love Bernini?s works, this museum is a must see. You want to reach out and touch his works and expect the flowing marble garments to feel soft. You deeply feel the emotions he portrays. After the tour we had 20 minutes more in the museum so we went back to look at the Berninis once again. It?s simply amazing to me that a cold piece of marble can be formed to exude such emotion and fluidity. His sculpture is alive. You want to reach out and touch his figures to reassure yourself that they are indeed made from marble.

I thought two hours would be enough since this is the second time I?ve been to the Borghese but next time I?m booking back to back tickets so I can have four hours there.

After the Borghese we walked through the gardens and wandered to the Spanish Steps; teaming with people on a beautiful, sunny Sunday afternoon. Based on a recommendation from this board, we went to Restaurant 34, located at Via Mario de Fiori, 34, near the Spanish Steps. We had a leisurely lunch which was good since Rome and Venice were packed with activity. We ate Fettuccini a la funghi, small shells with sweet red peppers and gorgonzola, spaghetti with artichokes, Chianti Classico, and limoncello. Very good. I?d give this resto a recommendation.

Next was the Trevi fountain, jammed with people as well. I threw a bunch of small coins into the fountain and watched as they fanned out and hit the water. That was such fun ? much better to save your small coins and throw lots of them into the water. Kismet - a few of them were for you.

The Pantheon was next on our route. I had conflicting information about whether or not it was open after lunch on Sunday but it definitely was open and again packed with people. We were all awe struck by the beauty of this building.

St. Ignatius of Loyola with its fabulous frescoed ceiling. You need to stand in the center of the church to get the full effect of the ceiling. It seems to flatten out when viewed from the ends of the church.

Then to Il Gesù which I didn?t see much of last time since they were celebrating back to back Masses, it being the Jubilee year. Il Gesù is the Jesuit?s mother church in Rome with a Baroque altar, frescoed ceilings and a giant lapis to the left of the altar.

We finished up our church sightseeing (at least for today) at Santa Maria Sopra Minerva. Every time I see that elephant with an obelisk jutting out of its back I laugh. What was Bernini thinking?

Ended the afternoon at the wine bar I had visited the day before. Sat enjoying our white wines with green olives and a small dish of pretzel and cracker snacks. Delightful.

Since we enjoyed our dinner the night before so much we returned to Restaurant Pancotto. The portions were huge and we had had a large lunch so we ordered light tonight ? Artichoke appetizer, spinach salad, and eggplant parmesan with Rosso di Montalcino wine.

ROME Monday, October 13

We called and confirmed our Enjoy Rome tour of the Vatican for 12:00 that day and then went to Termini to buy train tickets for Venice for the group and tickets for me from Venice to Varenna on Lake Como.

Walked to Santa Maria Maggiore to spend a few minutes in that gorgeous church. Grabbed a cab for Santa Maria del Popolo since this was on Sarah's must see list of churches. By this time I was getting confused about what each church looked like and didn't have time to take good notes. I don't usually sightsee at this breakneck speed but prefer to visit a church and then reflect on what I've seen. But we were trying to see the most we could in three days and it's difficult to choose which of Rome's exquisite churches to see and which to leave out.

A cab to the metro stop closest to the Vatican for our three-hour Enjoy Rome tour. This tour focused on the history of the Vatican, the Raphael rooms, ancient sculpture (Classical and Hellenistic), tapestries, map corridor where we had about a 15 minute explanation of the Sistine Chapel frescoes, Sistine Chapel, and St. Peter's. It was a very good tour and I can recommend Enjoy Rome as a tour group. The cost was 20€ per person plus admission fee to the Vatican (10&euro. There were 19 people in the group. The draw back is that we didn't see the Vatican museums since three hours wouldn't allow that.

ENJOY ROME vs. SCALA REALE:
Since I've read questions on this board asking about the merits of different tour groups, I'd like to compare Enjoy Rome's Vatican tour with Scala Reale's which I took three and a half years ago. It's so true that you get what you pay for and Scala Reale wins my vote. They are quite a bit more expensive than Enjoy Rome and their tour is only an hour longer; 4 hours vs. 3 hours for Enjoy Rome. Scala Reale places a limit on the number in the group - we were seven, rather than the 19 with ER. However, the Scala Reale Vatican tour with Liz Lev was one of the two tours I've taken that have left me awe struck (the other was a Ste-Chappelle tour given by an art history master's student). The SR tour covered the history of St. Peter and the Vatican then focused more on the art, especially sculpture and the influences on Michelangelo. Liz's energy level and knowledge was incredible and she packed so much information into that four hours. If you have four hours for the Vatican and are willing to pay Scala Reale's prices, then please use this tour group as you will have an experience you won't easily forget.

From the Vatican, Sarah and I went to Santa Maria del Vittoria to see Bernini's Ecstasy of St. Teresa while Martha and Mary went to a camera shop near Termini to get a battery for Mary's digital. I'm so happy I was able to see St. Teresa. What a magnificent sculpture and Sarah is a Bernini fan as well so we enjoyed it together.

Sarah and I waited on the church steps and Martha and Mary came by in a cab and we all went to Gianicolo for the view of Rome which was wonderful. We had drinks in the café at Piazza Garibaldi at the top of the hill overlooking Rome; toasting our farewell to Rome. Again, a quiet Trastevere oasis and a perfect ending to our three days. We caught the number 115 bus which stops across the street from our hotel. After a long time on the bus and none of us seeing anything familiar we were wondering when we would come to the hotel. We slowly, slowly moved along the river with lots of end-of-day traffic and when we saw that we were at the intersection of Via le Trastevere we hopped off since the hotel was a short walk and we knew the way and with the Rome traffic thought we'd get back to the hotel much more quickly.

Freshened up and went to a small resto near the hotel where we ate fettuccini with tomato sauce and tuna, short rigatoni in a cream sauce with gorgonzola, and fettuccini with beef and chicken and, of course, 2 liters of house red. We shared a tiramisu for dessert. The couple with their daughter next to us were from Berlin and renting an apartment in the area for a week. We had a delightful conversation with them during dinner. The staff spoke very little English and the menu wasn't translated. Our waitress was having difficulty with our questions so she fetched a customer/friend of hers who very kindly answered our menu questions.

Since there were four of us we took cabs everywhere we went. That reduced transportation time to the sights since we only had three days in Rome. I think the most we paid for a cab was 10€, and usually less, so it was affordable, especially divided by four. We usually walked sight-to-sight during the day but started and ended our days with cabs.

REFLECTIONS ON TRASTEVERE:
I enjoyed staying in this section of the city. It's quiet, charming, has lots of wonderful shops and restaurants and the prices are very reasonable as the restos and shops cater to the local people more than to tourists. I find Rome to be the nosiest city I've ever visited and returning in the evening to Trastevere is a bit of heaven after a strenuous sightseeing day. It feels like more of a village than a section of a large, bustling city and I never want to stay any place else in Rome. Since Trastevere doesn't get the tourist population other parts of Rome do, many people speak very limited English but everyone was eager to help.

Dear Adrienne:

I agree with you on the platform in the Colusseum: detracts from the overall experience. I can see why they put it in: disabled access and flow of people.

Keep up the great report!!

MichelleY

Hi Adrienne,

Thanks for your report. Great reading.

ROME to VENICE Tuesday, October 14

This morning was our last chance to see San Francisco a Ripa before we left for Venice. Sarah and I walked over to the church at 7:00 when it opened and waited for some light to see Bernini's ecstasy of Beata Ludovica Albertoni. I'm glad we got up early to do this although a bit later would have been better to see the sculpture because of the light. We walked back to the hotel, had breakfast, then ordered a taxi to Termini. Arrivederci Roma!

En route to Venice on the Eurostar we pass through Florence, only an hour and a half from Rome. Rome to Venice is four and a half hours. You can buy lunch on the train for 25€ which we didn't do as we brought some snacks with us. In Florence the train changes direction. Those sitting facing forward are now facing backward for the remainder of the journey. Mary had offered to change places with Sarah so she could sit facing forward for a while but Sarah decided to stay in her original seat. We all laughed when we realized the train actually changed and Mary would have, once again, been facing forward.

Between Rome and Florence the train goes through miles of fields, brown and already harvested, and small villages with warm ochre houses and churches and popular trees standing solo or in small groves.

North of Florence the landscape becomes more green and hilly; the villages are more abundant.

The train ride gives me time to reflect on how travel has changed in the last 20 years. You could never have gone from Rome to Venice in 4.5 hours. However, I miss the old trains with compartments and windows that open. During the summer heat air conditioning is welcome but on a mild October day, with the sun shining, it would be wonderful to have the breeze bellowing through the car and smell the fragrant countryside. Even the smell of diesel fumes of the cities and stations is welcome to me since it reminds me of travel and journeys taken and yet to be taken.

Ah, magical Venice! Venice is sunny, breezy, and cool; the skies bright blue. The sight of La Serenissima as you exit the train station and face the Grand Canal moves you from one world into another. I overlook the tacky souvenir kiosks and the hoards of tourists (of which I am one more adding to the explosion in Venice) and focus on the water and the beautiful buildings. I am transported.

We buy 72 hour vaporetto passes for 22€ and I impress on the others that it is not a three-day pass as they keep calling it but a 72 hour pass and it ends the exact minute it begins and we all need to vigilantly remember when we bought the pass. I relate the story of my last time in Venice when the pass ran out and I was told it would be a 90,000 Lira fine ($45) which I fortunately managed to talk my way out of. In true Italian fashion the negotiations took a long time and spoiled my pleasure in the final boat ride from Rialto to San Marco.

Venice is preparing for winter. All around you see the platforms standing ready for the aqua alta. In a city where there's not many places to sit, these platforms make great places to rest for a few minutes.

Vaporetto #82 is the express boat up and down the Grand Canal (the #1 stops at every pontile). It's one stop to Rialto, the closest to Hotel Caneva (www.hotelcaneva.com; tel: 041.522.8118; fax 041.520.8676). It's about a three-minute walk from Rialto and a five-minute walk from San Marco. I stayed here last trip but the price with the advent of the Euro has almost doubled. It was 140,000 Lira in June, 2001 ($70); now it is 100€ ($118) for a double with bath.

The price isn't the only change at Hotel Caneva. They seem to have a different staff and are pushing guided tours and gondola rides complete with serenading. They also no longer give a discount for cash, although I asked for it. The breakfast coffee comes out of a machine instead of being served to you from pitchers on your table. On the fourth day I figure out that you CAN get hot milk from the machine rather than the cold milk left on the buffet table.

I requested and was given two rooms with a canal view and Sarah and I got lucky. We had a small balcony at the intersection of two rios (small canals). The view straight ahead was of two bridges (one private) over a rio and the gondolas passed frequently calling "hoyee" from under the closest bridge, warning they were approaching a blind intersection. I would stand outside on the balcony each morning and evening to watch the people passing over the bridge and watch the gondolas glide by.

On the last day we found the bridge we could see people crossing over from our window and had a view of "our" balcony. Ours was room 30. Rooms 29, 34, and perhaps 32 or 33 had balconies. The others in that row only had windows on the canal. Last time I stayed in room 34 which had a larger bathroom than we did in rooms 30 and 31. The shower, again as in Rome, was tiny but the room was a decent size.

After leaving the luggage we head to Ca' Rezzonico but took the vaporetto the wrong way. Luckily the next stop was Ca' D'Oro so we went into the museum (admission 5&euro. Another beautiful mosaic floor. I was most interested in the frescoes, moved to the museum from Fonadco dei Tedeschi. Many Venetian building facades were once frescoed and I would love to go back in time to see Venice with her with frescoed buildings.

We then managed to take the vaporetto, going in the correct direction, to Ca' Rezzonica but it's closed on Tuesdays so we went into a wonderful bead shop facing the vaporetto stop, Genninger Studio (www.genningerstudio.com). They had great jewelry, glassware, and beads and even beaded tassels. For anyone looking for beads and jewelry this shop is a must. Since we'd just arrived we browsed but didn't buy anything. Just behind the shop and Ca' Rezzonico is Campo San Barnaba where Katherine Hepburn buys that wonderful 18th century red glass goblet from Rossano Brazzi in "Summertime." I mention this to the group but I'm not with any old movie buffs so I draw blank stares from Martha, Mary, and Sarah. Never mind, I think to myself?the fodors crowd will appreciate it.

It was early but we were hungry since we only had snacks for lunch so we ate dinner off Campo San Barnaba. We began with a stuffed, fried olive appetizer that we shared and ? liter of prosecco. The olives were stuffed with meat and very good. Main courses were porcini ravioli, polenta with gorgonzola, and linguini with seafood and a bottle of red. For desert we shared a delicious crepe with pears and dark chocolate sauce and cappuccinos after.

Back to the hotel by way of a vaporetto ride to San Marco. Walked around, looking in the shops and listening to the music. Piazza San Marco is very different after dark in October. There were few people walking around since the wind was brisk and it was dark. Stopped at the museum of Baroque instruments and looked around for a few minutes. Harpsichords, lutes, mandolins and some other instruments that I was unfamiliar with. Got lost going back to the hotel but eventually did find our way.

Regarding ScalaReale in Rome:

An interesting fact about tour guides that eludes unknowing tourists is many provide questionable history and alter known facts to suit whim or fancy. A C- history student can easily become a tour guide yet, a performance can be so riveting and captivating, an unassuming customer wouldn't know better. Tour guides are really good job opportunities for out-of-work actors. Some guide companies actually train with pre-scripted history.

I think it's safe to say that most serious, "accredited" historians usually look for the "best" job; one that offers good pay, security and a high-quality work experience. I don't know any accredited historians who would prefer speaking to a group of 19 rather than a group of 7, even for more money.

ScalaReale and Mr.Tom Rankin offer a one-of-a-kind learning experience and, I believe, they attract and seek the best educators available in the market place. Mr. Rankin is a brilliant teacher and a walk with him through Rome is unlike any other. Ms. Liz Lev is also a brilliant educator and continues to teach at college level in Rome. This caliber of "guide" cannot be found just anywhere. The word "guide" is truly inappropriate when describing ScalaReale's docents and services. For whatever their price, the customer receives an intense, intellectual lesson on the subject at hand from their very own accredited professional. Sometimes, you do get what you pay for, and more, and this is the simple story behind ScalaReale's success.

Enjoying your report, adrienne. I certainly miss Venezia.

adrienne, thanks, you made Italya future destination for some.

VENICE Wednesday, October 15

Rialto to Ca' d'Oro by vaporetto (we really got our money's worth on the passes), then we walked to Fondamente Nuove for the vaporetto to Torcello with a change at Burano (5 minutes).

I'd longed to see Torcello and on my third trip to Venice I finally had the opportunity. There's only one red brick path from the boat dock to the cathedral Santa Maria Assunta, about a 10 minute walk. There are several restaurants on Torcello so you can have lunch there as well.

We first went into the church in front of the cathedral and then the museum where there was a beautiful Annunciation and mosaic fragments. These are the things I remember most about the museum. The cathedral was so beautiful. An audio is included with the admission ticket and explains the apse mosaic of Mary, the frescoes of the apostles and the mosaic of the Last Judgment on the back wall. The floor was fabulous. Well worth the trip to Torcello and much more interesting than Burano. If you are considering one of the lagoon islands, Torcello should be the choice.

We had 12:30 reservations at Locanda Cipriani. It was too cold to eat on the terrace but we had a table with a view of the back gardens. The staff were attentive and friendly, not at all snobbish as I thought they might be. We started off with bellini aperitifs which were my treat as Sarah very generously paid for the lunch which was about 250€. We bypassed starters and for main courses chose beef with funghi sauce, sea bass with fresh tomatoes, and veal scaloppini with fresh tomatoes and capers. I'm not a caper fan but these were great capers ? large and not too briny. Chianti Classico with the meal. All main courses came with a side of fresh, roasted vegetables with oil. Dessert was chocolate pudding with crème anglaise, crepes with crème and grand marnier which was flambéed at the table, and pear tarte with crème anglaise followed by cappuccinos. We were stuffed and everything was delicious!

After our three-hour lunch we walked in the garden for a few minutes and then took the boat to Burano where we walked around looking in the shops. There was one interesting gourmet shop located on the main row of shops near the church, Dai Fradei, that had pasta in rainbow colors; pastel blue, pink, yellow as well as the traditional pasta colors. They also had liquors (grappa and limoncello) in fancy bottles, nicer than I'd seen anywhere else. The store is more easily recognized by the sign on the awning "Gelati e prodotto tipici."

On returning to Fondamente Nuove, I Gesuiti church was still open (10-12 & 4-6) so we had time to stop and see Titian's Martyrdom of St. Lawrence and Tintoretto's Assumption. On the way to Ca' d'Oro we stopped in a supermarket (Coop) for some provisions for the room and to take home. At Ca d'Oro Sarah bought a wonderful book on Venetian tile floors which I took a look at and was jealous of. Vaporetto to Rialto and then lost again getting back to the hotel. You'd think we could figure it out - it was only a two-minute walk.

We arrived at the hotel to find that we had to turn around and leave in 10 minutes for a Vivaldi concert. We thought the tickets were for 9:00 but they were for 8:30. So we had to run back to Ca' d'Oro where we had just come from. I knew I couldn't face running out again so I opted to stay at the hotel. I wrote in my journal and enjoyed standing on the balcony watching the activity in the rios and on the bridge. Martha, Mary, and Sarah came back at 10:30 and said I missed nothing. The concert was awful. Sarah, who plays piano, was appalled that the harpsichordist actually yawned during the concert. There were only 14 people in the audience and a few left half way through. So I made the right decision. Sometimes you just have to miss things to avoid travel exhaustion. They were all going home on Saturday so wanted to cram everything into the week; I had yet another week of the trip.

VENICE Thursday, October 16

Noise outside woke us early this morning (6:45). I dressed and went out looking for a bar for coffee since the hotel breakfast wasn't available until 8:00. Found one by the Rialto vaporetto stop and had an espresso. Found my way back to the hotel without getting lost!

This morning Sarah and I were going to San Rocco to see the Tintorettos and Carpaccios while Martha and Mary check out the tours for the Doges Palace. First the church and then the Scuola (admission 5.50&euro. San Rocco Scuola had audios which we took and wandered around for about half an hour. The audio was confusing and the darkness of the Scuola was depressing me. A half hour was all we had time for before we had to meet the others at Ca' Rezzonico at 10:00.

Ca' Rezzonico (admission 6.50&euro was magnificent - light and airy. Each room had plastic cards explaining the room and what was in it. Lots of Tiepolo frescoes on the ceilings ? lots of Baroque. There were several rooms of his frescoes moved from his villa to Ca' Rezzonico. This was a Venetian highlight; one I'd repeat next trip.

Murano next. A hideous boat ride. Halfway there I became trapped in the middle of a crowd of people, couldn't move and had nothing to hold onto and was ranting and raving when we finally got off at Murano. I went to a bar and had a whisky while the others went to a fornace. I couldn't face the sales pitch after the boat ride so I didn't want to go in. I'd seen glass blowing on other trips to Venice and enjoyed my café time, sitting alongside the water.

We proceeded to go from store to store. I was looking for a particular shop that sold lots of beads and thought it was by the Navaggere stop but couldn?t find it. We walked from Navaggere toward the Museo stop (no one was interested in the museum and I had been there) and just past the Museo stop Sarah found the store for me. They have lots of glitzy glass beads and I picked out several in iridescent blue green and asked the woman to make me a necklace and earrings which she did in two minutes. She only charged for the materials.

Martha came in with a fabulous choker on a wire that had blue and white matte beads which were hand made. She only paid 16€ - a bargain. So we all went into that shop. I bought a matte green bead, with a small square of blue in the middle, on a leather cord and matching earrings. We spoke with the woman and she explained all the beads are hand made. They were absolutely gorgeous. The web site is: www.artstudiomurano.com.

Santa Maria e Donato church was open and we went in. Never pass up a church in Italy is my motto; they're all gems. Another beautiful floor and the mosaic of Mary in the apse was reminiscent of the one in the cathedral on Torcello.

We returned to Venice and were all exhausted so we had dinner near the hotel. I had Margherita pizza since I hadn't had any pizza yet and the others chose the Menu with Veal Milanese. I need to add here that each meal we all traded tastes from each others plates so everyone could taste everything ordered.

VENICE Friday, October 17

Martha, Mary, and Sarah did the Doges Palace secret itinerary tour and the Basilica while I went to Santa Maria Miracoli and Madonna dell Orto. I'd already seen the Palace and Basilica and wanted to see some new things.

No matter how grand the major cathedrals and basilicas are, my taste in churches runs to the small jewels that few tourists get to enjoy. In Florence, I'm entranced with Santo Spirito, by its gray and white marble and its simplicity. The absence of tourists and the presence of older Italian ladies dressed in black, praying, assures me its function is that of a parish church rather than a tourist attraction.

In Venice, Santa Maria Miracoli evoked the same feeling, although I believe it is no longer used as a parish church. It was a lovely walk from the hotel on a cool, clear morning. The area is filled with locals and becomes less crowded the farther away from Rialto I went. Over bridges and through campos. Lots of lovely shops in the beginning of the walk and I stopped and bought a hand painted hair clip. I took my time, map in hand, stopping frequently to check my direction. In one campo I stand looking, puzzled, map open, and a signora approaches me and asks to help. I state my destination and she tells me to go left and cross the next bridge.

As I approach yet another campo I turn around and see Miracoli just behind me. She's beautiful with ochre marble run through with varying shades of gray veins. The second tier of the front façade has five arches topped by an arched pediment containing one large round window half encircled by five smaller round windows. The admission is 2€ or you can buy a pass for 15 churches in Venice for 8€. I pay the 2€ and receive a plastic card with information on the church. For a while I'm inside all by myself. The marble is exquisite. The lower row of marble is light and dark gray striated rectangles surrounded by terra cotta. The vaulted, wooden ceiling contains paintings of the saints and prophets. On the altar is the image of Mary and Jesus that is thought to be miraculous and originally was located on a house near by.

After, I stop in a café behind the church for a cappucino and get a table with a view of the back of the church. I notice that the windows in the arches are offset rather than placed in the middle of the arch and wonder about this.

Walked to Fondamente Nuove and took the boat to the Orto stop. I can see the church from the vaporetto stop and just keep following the streets until I get to it. Very few people about. I walk in and was disappointed after Miracoli. I think I?ve been saturated with churches and this was just another dark church with Tintorettos. The lightness of Miracoli has spoiled me. I walk through quickly and make my way back to San Marco to meet the group at 12:00 by the column on the right. Piazza San Marco is packed with tourists and pigeons; a typical day. A quick lunch and then an afternoon of shopping. I bought a couple of scarves and a beautiful shawl. We were together for a couple of hours then went to Harry's Bar for drinks, Martha?s treat.

We then split up and Sarah and I went off in search of a paper store I had seen where we bought notebooks with end paper covers. We met back at the hotel where we looked at all the goodies Martha and Mary bought; handbags that become backpacks and Martha bought a beautiful light blue sweater with rolled collar.

We again had dinner near the hotel and toasted our time in Venice.

Great trip report!

VENICE to BELLAGIO Saturday, October 18

Martha, Mary, and Sarah left to take the Alilaguna to the airport. I took a vaporetto to the train station for my train to Varenna on Lake Como with a change in Milan.

I was so sorry to leave Venice. The day was crisp and clear with perfect blue skies. I stood outside on the vaporetto for the short trip to the station. In front of Ca' d'Oro we pass a wedding gondola with bride and groom going in the opposite direction. The two gondoliers wear white with gold sashes. Behind the nuptial couple is an urn full of red roses. They look so happy on their special day.

I'm at the station a half hour before the train leaves so I stop at a street vendor and find the souvenir I've been looking for ? a small ceramic of Rialto bridge to go on the shelf with my collection from other cities.

I board the train early...oh joy! It's a compartment train! I haven't ridden in a compartment in 20 years or more. I stow my bags overhead (thank goodness I bought a new 22" roller that I can lift). As the train pulls out of the station I put down my book, "An Italian Affair," and go to the corridor window for a last look at Venice and the lagoon, feeling somewhat like Katherine Hepburn but without having met Rossano Brazzi, much to my deep remorse.

Between Mestre and Padova I eat plump green grapes that taste like wine, bought at the Coop in Cannaregio. At Vicenza, a man waits on the platform with a bouquet of red roses and baby?s breath wrapped in green paper and tied with a large red bow. Ours is not the train he's waiting for and he sits down again.

After Verona I eat my picnic lunch of bite-size toastettes, heaped with creamy, buttery, Bel Paese. The drinks trolley comes by and I ask for vino rosso but there is only beer and soft drinks so I content myself with a few more grapes that taste like wine.

Arrive in Milan on time with 15 minutes to change trains - just enough time. Had a second-class ticket but second class was packed and I didn't want to drag my bags through the cars looking for a seat and a place for the bags so I stowed my luggage and sat in a first-class car. When the conductor came by for my ticket I paid the balance.

At Varenna I looked for some information on the ferry but the station was shut. Started chatting with a group of seven from NY and we walked down the hill together. It was a short, easy walk and a short wait for the ferry. The single ticket is 3.50€. Five of the NY party were staying at the same hotel I was - Hotel Suisse and one of them spotted it from the ferry. It's lakeside, just off the ferry dock.

HOTEL SUISSE
Clean but worn. 85€ per night with breakfast. No heat, even though I could have used some at night and very little hot water even though I let the hot water tap run for a long time the first two days I only had luke warm water for the shower. You enter through the restaurant. The staff speaks very little English and tells you nothing about the hotel. There are no signs regarding breakfast hours or if breakfast is included in the room rate.

63 steps up to my room on the third floor - yikes! I find out later from the New Yorkers that the hotel is locked up at night and opens about 8:00 in the morning. They had tried to get an early boat to Lugano at 7:40 which they needed to make to have a day in Lugano and get back the same day. They missed the boat because they were locked in. We were given a second key and I assumed that was for the front door but it wasn't. It was for a side door accessed from someplace on the first floor that I never found. You exit onto a stairway that's under construction with wooden planking over the stone stairs. One of their group was out until midnight one night and he was locked out. Fortunately the two people in their group who stayed in another hotel had an extra bed and he slept with them.

The morning I was leaving I made sure that they knew I had an early boat to Como and that the doors would be open before 8:00. I didn't have time for breakfast that morning so I asked for a cup of coffee before I left and was told there was no bar service. I looked at the woman strangely since she watched me come down the stairs with my luggage so she knew I was a guest there and told her the hotel served breakfast so could I have a cup of coffee. She then understood that I wanted a cup of coffee and was entitled to it so brought me a cup but I thought that was a strange response. It's not as though I wandered in off the street. In spite of all this my room (#16) had a great view. Room 18, across the hall, would have the same view. The two rooms just below, #6 and #7 have small balconies and also face the lake. I didn't eat here since the restaurant prices were high and it looked stuffy.

Upon arriving in Bellagio, I dragged my bags up the 63 stairs to my room, I entered and flung open the French windows to a wonderful view of the lake and towns across the lake. I looked out for a while but the day was gray. I took a walk around town, looking in the many shops, stopped for a glass of wine at Hotel du Lac (2&euro which had propane heaters set out, and then went up the main staircase. Bellagio, like many lakes towns, is built on a hill and there?s a small amount of space at the lake edge for shops and a road. Almost to the top of the stairs I saw Bilacus restaurant, looked at the menu and decided to eat there, based on recommendations from fodor?s folks.

BILACUS RESTAURANT:
This restaurant is a treasure. The staff is friendly and attentive; the food is fresh, delicious, huge portions, and reasonably priced. The first night I had insalata mista (5&euro which included lettuce, radicchio, tomatoes, fennel, cucumbers, grated carrots, and red and yellow peppers artfully arranged on the plate, followed by a huge portion of veal milanaise, served with a side of fresh mixed vegetables (10&euro, ? liter of red wine (6&euro. The second night was the green salad (3&euro and pasta bolognaise (9&euro with lots of garlic and mushrooms. I couldn't sample the desserts because I was so full. The second night the waitress remembered that I wanted a large espresso (1.5&euro. I wanted to eat there my third night in Bellagio but they?re closed on Mondays, like many things in Bellagio.

BELLAGIO Sunday, October 19

The day was clear and cold but gray. I picked up the ferry schedule and other info from the tourist office. The woman at the TI was very helpful. I bought a central lake day pass from the ticket office for 7.50€. The single trip is 3.50€ and it's 4.50€ to put your car on the boat. The ferries for cars is a one-minute walk from the main passenger ferry stop. Took the boat to Mennagio and walked up to the top to the San Carlo church. Afterwards sat in Piazza Garibaldi and had a coffee. As it was Sunday, there were few people about. Walked along the lovely promenade with winter pansies in the planters.

I took the next boat which was going to Varenna. As I got off the boat Albergo Olivedo was just in front of me so I had lunch on the terrace. It was a bit nippy but I didn't mind the cold and the view was lovely. One of the good things about traveling alone is that I can sit outside and eat. None of my friends will eat outside if the temperature is below 75 degrees. People at the next table were eating eggplant so I asked them if it was good and they enthusiastically recommended it. So I ordered hot eggplant with Bel Paese cheese between the layers and some red wine. Lunch was 15.50€ for the eggplant, wine, and cappucino.

After lunch I started to doze in my chair so I went back to Bellagio and took a short nap. Walked around a bit and had dinner at Bilacus and then took a short stroll on the promenade.

BELLAGIO Monday, October 20

Gray and drizzling. Took the first boat to Villa Carlotta in Termezzo. You get there by way of the slow ferry that makes a loop around the central lake. It's 10 minutes to get there from Bellagio but half an hour to get back. Villa Carlotta with its Canova sculptures was lovely and I walked a bit in the gardens afterward despite the light rain. Entrance fee is 6.50€.

Hopped back on the slow ferry and went to Lenno. Since I'd skipped breakfast I needed a coffee to keep going and to warm up. Opened the door to an albergo and there were four people standing in the dining room and I asked for a cappucino but was told that they didn't work there, they were guests. They were from Michigan but one of the men was born in the area. The proprietor came out and explained that they only served guests and there was a bar just a few doors away. I continued talking to the folks from Michigan and expressed my disappointment that there wasn't more activity in the area. It seemed to me that late October was the wrong time of the year and wrong place to be traveling solo. The short daylight hours and cold once the sun set drove everyone indoors. Although I found the area quite beautiful I was disappointed there wasn't more to do in the evenings.

One of them, Phil, said my next destination, Lake Maggiore, would be more of the same thing I found at Lake Como and suggested I go to San Remo which was a large town and there would be people walking around at night and it would be much more lively. His sister owns a restaurant there and he gave me her card and a hotel recommendation. It was tempting and I was thinking about not going to Lake Maggiore and going to San Remo instead, but decided to stay with my original plans.

Said goodbye to the Michigan folks, went to the bar and had a cappucino (only 1.20&euro then walked to the church which has some pretty, small stained glasses.

The rain continued so I returned to Bellagio for lunch. It cleared up in the afternoon and I walked to the church in Bellagio and looked around the shops some more.

Bilacus is closed on Mondays, so I decided to go to Varenna for dinner at Albergo Olivedo since I had enjoyed the lunch there the day before. I was eagerly awaiting another scrumptious dinner. Little did I know that I was going to be very rudely treated. I arrived at the hotel and the woman asked how many. When I replied "one" she looked into the dining room and said they were full. It was still early and I could also see into the dining room and saw there were plenty of empty tables. I asked her if she was sure and she told me yes. So I asked where another restaurant might be and she told me next door. Off I went only to find the restaurant next door closed. I was certainly surprised that she didn't know it was closed on Monday.

There didn't seem to be any other restaurants open and Varenna was pretty dark to go wandering around so I returned to the Olivedo and went into the small service bar where the staff were having their dinner and asked for a glass of wine and sat down at the only table to wait for the next boat (it was a bit cold to wait outside).

The woman saw me in the bar and I told her the other restaurant was closed. She then said maybe she would have a cancelation and if so would I like a table and was I taking the 9:00 boat. I told her there was a boat in 20 minutes but if there was a table I would take the 9:00 boat. I realize she would want the table free at 9:00 which was fine. My instinct said to tell her I didn't want a table, but I went against my better judgment and said yes. Two minutes later she came back and said there was a table, which I thought was very odd since she was so sure the dining room was fully booked, but I followed her into the dining room where there were only three or four tables filled; there were at least a dozen tables open.

The table was the worst one possible, right next to the serving station but since I was quite hungry I thought I would just stay. Then I looked at the menu and saw that you must order two courses at dinner. I called the woman over and said that I couldn't eat two courses, it's just too much food, and she got very huffy and said that if I just wanted soup I could eat in the bar. I?d never even mentioned soup! And, I certainly wasn't going to sit in the bar and eat. I told her I'd just pay for the glass of wine and leave, which I did.

It was her attitude I disliked. She spoke English well enough to express herself so it wasn't a language problem. I realize that her hotel guests would probably be eating there (I heard later that if you stay in the hotel you must take dinner there) but she could have been a lot nicer about the whole thing and not have treated me so shabbily.

Back to Bellagio on the 7:50 boat. I looked around for a restaurant and remembered someone on this board said the tiramisu at Hotel Florence was very good so I walked over there only to find that their restaurant is shut for the season in October.

The woman at Hotel Florence gave me a couple of other recommendations, one of which was Bilacus but I told her they were closed. The other recommendation was the trattoria across from Bilacus which is where I went. I can't recommend this place. I had a lackluster veal stew that was served with polenta. There was very little meat and lots of potatoes. Why serve polenta with all those potatoes? Red wine with it and then I left. The next day I was chatting with some folks at the ferry dock and they said they had eaten there. The gentleman said he ordered the veal stew and could frankly do better at home. I laughed and said I thought the same thing.

BELLAGIO to BAVENO Tuesday, October 21

After hearing the New Yorkers' story of being locked in the hotel and missing their boat I had spoken with someone to ensure the doors would be open early. I wasn't going down that side ramp that was under construction with all my luggage.

8:13 hydrofoil to Como to pick up the rental car. The boat trip was great. The seats were very comfortable and the views going down the lake were great. The rain had stopped and the day was going to be beautiful. The trip from Bellagio to Como was 35 minutes. At the dock in Como I showed the Europecar address to a couple of men standing around. I was told it was a 10 minute walk and I pointed to my luggage and he suggested a taxi. The taxi stand was across the square. When I got in the cab I saw the steering wheel was covered in coins and the dash board had tons of trash and trinkets glued to it. I was amazed! I had a couple of American coins in my purse so I pulled one out and gave it to the gentleman for his collection.

Getting the rental car was an adventure. I hadn't paid for it before I left - BIG MISTAKE!! I'm not a novice traveler and I don't know what I was thinking. I had the voucher number but the price wasn't guaranteed. I rented from Autoeurope but was picking up at a Europecar location and the rates were higher. The fellow at the pickup counter couldn't have been nicer or more helpful. We tried two different Autoeurope toll free numbers so I could give them my credit card number and get the original rate but neither number worked in Italy. The gentleman called both Malpensa and Linate airports to find out where to call but he couldn't get any information.

I thought about calling someone at home and having them call Autoeurope and pay for the car and waiting for the confirmation but the phone at the rental office didn't work internationally and I would have had to find a place to buy a phone card and then a phone. He did some calculations and told me that the five-day rental price was less than the four-day price I had booked and if I returned the car more than an hour late I could have the five-day price. That price,including basic insurance, was just a bit more than the price I was going to pay for full insurance so after some consideration I took the easiest and most expedient route and paid the extra money.

I gave him my drivers license and then he asked for my passport. Where was my passport? I looked all over for it and then realized it was in Bellagio. I put my head on the counter and wanted to cry. I hadn't really had a great time in Bellagio and wasn't thrilled with the hotel, I was coming down with a head cold, and now I find that they didn't give back my passport. Of course, it was my responsibility to remember to ask for it, but I'm so used to hotels just handing it back after a few hours I forgot all about it.

First I was told that I had to get the passport before I could have the car and we checked the boat schedules. It was 9:00 and the round trip on the boat would get me back to Como at 3:30. Yikes. Then he said he would phone the hotel and ask them to fax the passport and I could have the car, drive to Bellagio, pickup the passport and drive back to the rental car location and show him the passport. I said fine. He gave me directions to get out of Como and back to his location. After a few more minutes of being in a huff, I decided that I could let this small problem really bother me or I could laugh about it and call it a travel adventure. I chose the later.

By the time the hotel had faxed the passport (they hadn't even copied it yet), about 10 minutes later, the Europcar fellow and I were friends. I told him repeatedly that I appreciated all his help with my problems. I also asked him if he could call the hotel again and ask them to FedEx my passport to Baveno so I didn't have to drive back to Bellagio. Apparently this wasn't possible since the post office in Bellagio was closed for the season and they told me the closest post office was 10km away. In the end he said that the fax was really all he needed and I didn't have to stop back and show him my passport.

Back to Bellagio. I must say that all things happen for a reason. The day was beautiful for the drive back. I went up the eastern shore and fell in love with the area. The views were great and each small village was delightful. It took about an hour to drive back. I parked and got my passport then checked the schedule for the next car ferry to the other side. There was one in 20 minutes. I thought I'd have lunch and then drive down the western side back to Como. At the ferry dock I saw some older gentleman writing down the ferry times from the schedule posted on the building while his wife waited on a bench. I explained that he could get a schedule to take with him and showed him the door of the TI where he could get lots of information on the area. They were both very appreciative of the help.

Took the ferry to Cadenabbia then drove to Mennagio (5 minutes) where I had a Caprese salad at the Hotel du Lac, sitting outside. Then started my drive back toward Como. Driving down the western side of the lake is much easier than the eastern side but not as picturesque.

I followed the route I was given and headed toward Verase, continued on to Laveno where I took the ferry across to Intra, and then the short drive along the western side of Lake Maggiore to Baveno.

I had tried to book at Hotel Ruscello, based on a recommendation by Battuffolino but they weren't sure they would remain open after October 15. The woman at Hotel Ruscello couldn't have been nicer, giving me recommendation for other hotels both in Baveno and Stresa which remain open through the end of October.

I booked a room with lake view at Hotel La Ripa in Baveno for 45€ a night. I found it with no problem, parked across the street and went in. I was met by an older woman who spoke great English. She showed me to my first-floor room, I went in and looked out the window. A wonderful view of the Borromean Islands. I was happy. I unpacked and took the 10-minute walk into town and ate at Posta Restaurant.

My cold was worsening and the walk in the dark and cold wore me out. I ordered meat ravioli and could hardly finish it. People at the next table order bruschetta and it was huge. We were laughing about the portion size. They were German and said that they had never seen portions that size in Italy.

Went right to bed after dinner.


BAVENO Wednesday, October 22

A late breakfast then headed for the Umbrella Museum in Genese. I had so looked forward to this museum as I love quirky, small museums. It closes for the season at the end of September so I didn't get to see the museum. I stopped for a few minutes in the church next to the museum.

Signs along the way indicated I was headed for Orta San Guilio so I continued on the lovely winding road. Along the way I saw an older woman walking along with a backpack. I stopped and motioned I would give her a ride. She hopped in and talked to me the whole time, even though I kept shrugging and saying "no Italiano." She then motioned she was going up a road to the right to I turned off. I thought I would take her to her door since I had no definite schedule.

She started speaking more rapidly and I thought she was telling me she would get out at the corner but I told her in English that it was no problem to take her to where ever she was going. Just after making the turn, with the signora talking away rapidly, a car came from the opposite direction. Since the road was narrow, I stopped so he could pass. He didn't pass but stopped alongside me and started talking away to me. So I had the signora talking loudly in my right ear and the signore talking into my left ear but the window was closed and I had no idea what he was saying. I rolled down my window to hear "senso unico signora, senso unico." Ah! That's what the signora was trying to tell me...senso unico. It's one of the few phrases in Italian that I know...one way. Who would have thought a small country road would be one way. The road looked as wide as many two-way roads I?d driven. I motioned that I would back up and the signora promptly hopped out, said "grazie" and continued on her way.

The road from Baveno or Stresa leads right to Sacro Monte, that wonderful place with 20 chapels devoted to St. Francis of Assisi. Parked the car, walked to the church to find it closed. So, I began wandering around exploring the lovely chapels, with frescoes and figures representing episodes in St. Francis' life. I had the place to myself for about an hour. It did seem a bit eerie to wander around here all alone. When I came to the bar I stopped to warm up and have a cappuccino.

Next ? Orta San Guilio. If you turn left out of Sacro Monte you can't go anywhere else but Orta San Guilio. You must park outside of the town and walk in. I wandered along the narrow streets until I saw the main square with the Wednesday market. I had planned to walk through to see what was for sale but instead I looked to the right and saw a breath-taking view of Isola San Guilio.

The day was sunny; the sky blue. The island was a beautiful image. In front of me was a restaurant (Restaurant Venus) with tables on the terrace so I grabbed a seat for lunch before they filled up and ate a pizza just staring at the island.

Most of the people in Orta San Guilio were German tourists. They were in groups so they all seemed to know each and talked across the small tables. Indeed, the town looked Bavarian with its frescoed buildings.

After lunch I wandered through the town and climbed up to look at the church with its beautiful frescoes. Then took the five-minute boat trip to the island (3€ round trip). The boats go back and forth every 15 minutes. You just wait at the dock either on the mainland or the island for the next one.

It's a very small island and if you walk slowly it takes 10 minutes to walk around. The route is called the way of silence and every few yards there are plaques hanging from the buildings with a message about silence in four languages. The San Guilio Basilica is lovely with its frescoes, black marble pulpit and crypt with the remains of St. Guilio. It?s open 9:30 - 10:45. There's an 11:00 Mass and it reopens at 2:00. The closing time was a bit unclear as there are 2 times given: 17:45 (ore solare) and 18:45 (ore legate). I?m guessing the later time is summer hours and the earlier time is for off season.

It was becoming a bit cloudy and damp so, back in town, I decided to sit outside at Restaurant Venus again and have a hot chocolate. What a good choice. What arrived was a large cup of liquid chocolate; rich and dark. I was amazed. It tasted like hot chocolate pudding and was about the same consistency. I'll dream about that hot chocolate forever.

Heading back to Baveno I watched for a small sign I had seen that morning for a Roman Church. I found the turn and wound up in a village with streets so narrow I folded in my mirror. I didn't find the church; never saw another sign, and was feeling tired and my cold was again worse. Stopped at the market for more tissues, some grapes, cheese, and toastettes and planned on staying in that evening. The signora brought me tea and honey to my room about 7:00. That was so thoughtful and the hot drink was comforting.

BAVENO Thursday, October 23

Rain - lots of rain. My head cold is worse and now I'm coughing. Went downstairs and asked for a pot of tea to take to my room. Back to bed until about 11:00. The Lakes in the cold and the rain aren't much fun, especially when you're sick. Dressed and drove to Stresa to look in the shops and have lunch. There were few people about and many shops were closed. Found a comfy place for lunch and had ravioli with sage and butter and a cappucino after. Very good. Read my book. I?d finished "An Italian Affair" and was on to "Venetian Dreaming." Wished I'd read it before I went to Venice. Back to the grocery for more tissues, peach juice, lemon drops, cookies, grapes, and back to bed. Ate the grapes and cookies for dinner.

BAVENO Friday, October 24

Last day. I felt a bit better with all the rest and fluids I'd had the day before. The Sudafed I'd brought with me was helping some. Borromean Islands today. I would leisurely do the three islands. Drove to Stresa to the boat landing, parked the car and went to the ticket booth. The rates are cheaper for groups and the man quoted me a rate of 48€ for the three islands. I looked at him, amazed. The other boat tickets I'd bought were only 3.50€ to go as far. The Borromeans are only a few minutes from the mainland. He saw the look on my face and knew I wasn't going to pay that much so he immediately said he would give me a discount of 35€. I still thought that was too high but there weren't any other people waiting to go out to the islands that I could join so I paid it since the only other option was to drive to Baveno and see what the prices were there. I'd rather use whatever energy I had to see the islands than go place to place looking for a better deal.

Isola Madre first. This was the least favorite of the islands. There was almost no one about. I saw one German tour group and a few people on their own in the villa (8€ admission). Very few flowers in the garden. My favorite parts of the villa were the rooms with the puppet theatre, designed by a La Scala set designer, and the rooms with the marionettes. My very favorite room was the frescoed sitting room that looked like a gazebo with flowers.

The boat was supposed to pick me up at 12:00 but I was done early and he was there. On we went to Isola Pescatori. The boat man told me he would return "each full hour" which I took to mean on the hour. The boat dock was full of tacky souvenir kiosks and lots of German and Asian tourists. I immediately went to the church, built in the late 1800s, with a beautiful mosaic floor. Since I had seen Sarah's book on Venetian floors I suddenly started to pay more attention to floors. The church has a pieta on the altar with four large silver busts of Saints Ambrogio of Milan, Gaudenzio, Francesco di Sales, and Carlo Borromeo. The crucifixion is located on the right side of the altar. I thought it was interesting that a pieta was on the altar rather than a crucifixion. I was in the church at noon when the bells began pealing in all their glory.

Lunch at Verbano, on a recommendation from Bob the Nav. I had a table with a view of both Isola Madre and Isola Bella. Too bad it was too cold to sit on the terrace. That would have been perfect. Mixed salad, eggplant crepe with lots of cheese, very rich and good. In walked people I had met at lunch in Varenna. We chatted a bit then I left to walk around the island. The back side of the island was very windy and cold so I hurried on to the front side and sat at the dock for a while waiting for the 2:00 boat. Lunch had taken longer than I thought and I missed the 1:00 boat.

Isola Bella. The villa was exquisite. Stuccoed decorative walls, beautiful colors. Paintings, sculptures, mosaic floral tabletop, small mosaic pictures (I had to look closely to see that they were mosaic, the pieces were so small), a room of 16th century Flemish unicorn tapestries featuring animals and birds.

My favorite rooms were the six grotto rooms with floors of pebbles in terra cotta, black, and tan. Arched ceilings and columns of black and tan pebbles and stucco. Each room was in a different design and you had the feeling of entering a grotto. These rooms were used in summer as they faced north, were at ground level, and were cool. Walked through the garden and saw the white peacocks, although they didn?t spread their feathers. Fantastic folly at one end of the garden. Stopped for a cappucino since I had time before the 4:00 boat back to Stresa. Isola Bella was my favorite island although I would return for lunch at Verbano on Pescatori.

Filled up the gas tank at 1.05€ per liter. Half a tank was 20€. On the way to Malpensa the next morning I stopped just before the airport and topped it off for another 10€.

Dinner again at Posta Restaurant. I ordered the bruschetta I had seen the other night. It was quite large for a starter and I was getting full by the time I finished it. I'd also ordered a veal chop which was delicious. Felt well enough to drink some wine with dinner. I couldn't have my last meal in Italy sans vino!

The Lakes were beautiful but I wouldn't do them again solo and not off season. The end of October was too cold and the short daylight hours keeps people inside at night. Part of the charm of the lake areas would be to walk the promenades in the evening, stopping for a gelato, and admiring the views on the waterfront. No one was doing that. Resort areas without people milling around in the evening are a bit depressing. I?d wanted to visit the Lakes for several years and now I had. I'm glad I did so and want to go back in a few years but at a time when the weather is better.

I'd like to thank all the people on this board whose contibutions have helped make this trip rewarding and enriching. I've been devouring information here for years and I hope in some way I can contribute to your travels as you have contibuted so greatly to mine. Thank you all.

adrienne

What an excellent opening for your trip report Adrienne!!!
Browning is so right , if you open my heart you will see engraved rome and italy...
It seems that you had a great trip. and i want to go back to rome so badly now..
Thanks again for thinking about me , while you were there, and I hope that your wish or i should say our wishes will come true..
Grazie bella!1
ciao, kismet

Just wanted to compliment you on your trip report. It is so vivid. You seem to really enjoy and get into traveling.

Thanks, Adrienne.

What a wonderful report. You brightened up my day.