One Step at a Time - julia_t begins the Camino de Santiago
Nov 1st, 2016, 10:44 AM
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So here's where I stayed. I only stayed in one municipal (public) albergue, the rest were all privately owned/run.
Some were nicer than others, one or two were excellent. Breakfast, if offered, cost around €3.
I always asked for - and got - a low bunk, but if a single bed was available I'd pay a little extra to have the extra space around me.
Several nights I had a room to myself, and only one night was the room full and that was at the big municipal albergue in Santo Domingo de la Calzada, with 8 bunks/16 people in the room. I actually slept really well there, and no-one snored until after 5am that I was aware of!
Pilgrim dinners are always 3 courses and include wine. Some of them were really really good, and always fun sitting with fellow pilgrims sharing the meal and conversation.
PUENTE LA REINA – Hotel el Cerco €40 single ensuite room
18km – VILLATUERTA – Casa Magica €12 plus dinner €18
14km – VILLAMAYOR DE MONJARDIN – Albergue Villamayor de Monjardin €15 inc breakfast. Pilgrim dinner at Bar Itzal €10
20km – TORRES DEL RIO – Albergue Casa Mariela €10 pilgrim dinner €10
21km – LOGRONO – Albergue Logrono €20 private ensuite room
14km – NAVARRETE – Albergue Pilgrims €12 single bed in shared room with bathroom. Pilgrim dinner at Bar Deportivo €15
16km – NAJERA – Albergue Nido de Ciguena €15 for single bed in quad room
21km – SANTO DOMINGO DE LA CALZADA – municipal albergue, Casa del Santo €7 8-bunk dorm
17km – VILLAMAYOR DEL RIO – Albergue San Luis de Francia €5 pilgrim dinner €5 (+ wine €3)
17km – VILLAFRANCA MONTES DE OCA – Casa Rural La Alpageteria €22 private room w/ shared bath pilgrim dinner at Albergue San Anton Abad €12
19km – ATAPUERCA – Albergue El Peregrino €8 single bed in 6-person room
22km – BURGOS – Hostal Montes de Peregrino €30 private ensuite room
13km – RABE DE LA CALZADAS – Albergue Liberanos Domine €8 pilgrim dinner €8
20km – HONTANAS – Albergue Santa Brigida €7 pilgrim dinner €9
21km – ITERO DE LA VEGA – Albergue la Mochila €10 single bed pilgrim dinner €10
18km – POBLACION DE CAMPOS – Casa Rural Amanecer €30 private ensuite room pilgrim dinner €10
17km – CARRION DE LOS CONDES –Albergue Santa Clara €22 private ensuite room pilgrim dinner €11
Some were nicer than others, one or two were excellent. Breakfast, if offered, cost around €3.
I always asked for - and got - a low bunk, but if a single bed was available I'd pay a little extra to have the extra space around me.
Several nights I had a room to myself, and only one night was the room full and that was at the big municipal albergue in Santo Domingo de la Calzada, with 8 bunks/16 people in the room. I actually slept really well there, and no-one snored until after 5am that I was aware of!
Pilgrim dinners are always 3 courses and include wine. Some of them were really really good, and always fun sitting with fellow pilgrims sharing the meal and conversation.
PUENTE LA REINA – Hotel el Cerco €40 single ensuite room
18km – VILLATUERTA – Casa Magica €12 plus dinner €18
14km – VILLAMAYOR DE MONJARDIN – Albergue Villamayor de Monjardin €15 inc breakfast. Pilgrim dinner at Bar Itzal €10
20km – TORRES DEL RIO – Albergue Casa Mariela €10 pilgrim dinner €10
21km – LOGRONO – Albergue Logrono €20 private ensuite room
14km – NAVARRETE – Albergue Pilgrims €12 single bed in shared room with bathroom. Pilgrim dinner at Bar Deportivo €15
16km – NAJERA – Albergue Nido de Ciguena €15 for single bed in quad room
21km – SANTO DOMINGO DE LA CALZADA – municipal albergue, Casa del Santo €7 8-bunk dorm
17km – VILLAMAYOR DEL RIO – Albergue San Luis de Francia €5 pilgrim dinner €5 (+ wine €3)
17km – VILLAFRANCA MONTES DE OCA – Casa Rural La Alpageteria €22 private room w/ shared bath pilgrim dinner at Albergue San Anton Abad €12
19km – ATAPUERCA – Albergue El Peregrino €8 single bed in 6-person room
22km – BURGOS – Hostal Montes de Peregrino €30 private ensuite room
13km – RABE DE LA CALZADAS – Albergue Liberanos Domine €8 pilgrim dinner €8
20km – HONTANAS – Albergue Santa Brigida €7 pilgrim dinner €9
21km – ITERO DE LA VEGA – Albergue la Mochila €10 single bed pilgrim dinner €10
18km – POBLACION DE CAMPOS – Casa Rural Amanecer €30 private ensuite room pilgrim dinner €10
17km – CARRION DE LOS CONDES –Albergue Santa Clara €22 private ensuite room pilgrim dinner €11
Nov 1st, 2016, 10:20 PM
#85
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Glad to hear you have gone back to walk some more. I hope to go back in Sept. to do the whole way from St. Jean.
For those who might be interested, this is my Camino FB page with lists of albergues, gear, observations and of course photos.
https://www.facebook.com/Camino-Jo-1500499450243130/
For those who might be interested, this is my Camino FB page with lists of albergues, gear, observations and of course photos.
https://www.facebook.com/Camino-Jo-1500499450243130/
Nov 2nd, 2016, 11:24 PM
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Mainhattengirl - nice to hear from you Jo, glad all is well and you are planning on returning next year x
lincasanova - It was nice to mix up my accommodation, staying in a variety of places. The only albergue I'd not recommend is La Mochila in Itero de la Vega, because of the awful little bathroom with broken shower cubicle; otherwise it was in a traditional Spanish village house, very rustic, not quite as clean as it might have been, but comfortable enough.
The others were all fine, though I like Santa Brigida in Hontanas best, and Liberacion Domine in Rabe de la Calzadas close behind. These both offered big bunks, large rooms, really good showers and bathrooms, fabulous meals and great hosts.
When you've stayed in a few, you become extraordinarily grateful for small things...
big bunks so you can sit on the lower one without banging your head on the one above
windows that actually open
showers with space outside so you don't have to get dried and dressed in the same tiny wet space
power socket by your bed, and a personal light is better
clothes lines in the sun, with lots of spare pegs
soap at the washbasin
a chair or stool by your bunk
a hairdryer!
... and there are more, I daresay Jo can come up with a few of her own, but overall it is an amazing experience, and one I am so glad I am able to do.
lincasanova - It was nice to mix up my accommodation, staying in a variety of places. The only albergue I'd not recommend is La Mochila in Itero de la Vega, because of the awful little bathroom with broken shower cubicle; otherwise it was in a traditional Spanish village house, very rustic, not quite as clean as it might have been, but comfortable enough.
The others were all fine, though I like Santa Brigida in Hontanas best, and Liberacion Domine in Rabe de la Calzadas close behind. These both offered big bunks, large rooms, really good showers and bathrooms, fabulous meals and great hosts.
When you've stayed in a few, you become extraordinarily grateful for small things...
big bunks so you can sit on the lower one without banging your head on the one above
windows that actually open
showers with space outside so you don't have to get dried and dressed in the same tiny wet space
power socket by your bed, and a personal light is better
clothes lines in the sun, with lots of spare pegs
soap at the washbasin
a chair or stool by your bunk
a hairdryer!
... and there are more, I daresay Jo can come up with a few of her own, but overall it is an amazing experience, and one I am so glad I am able to do.
Nov 3rd, 2016, 03:08 AM
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Which Albergues did I like the best? They all seemed to have good points and less than good points and there were some that I enjoyed a lot, where others didn't, so it is all about personal preferences.
*Morgade was a favorite, with just 6 single beds in 1 room, with great blankets! Hosts were funny, friendly and the food was great. Lit a fire in the common room for us. The dbl rooms looked like a good bargain too. Lovely, ancient stone house surrounded by beautiful scenery.
*Casa Molar in Ventas de Naron, very welcoming hosts, in an ancient stone house with lovely scenery. They take your laundry and wash, dry and fold it for 6€. Pilgrim menu was pretty good and only 8.50€.
*San Saturnino in Ventosa was quite pretty with a great courtyard where everyone sat and chatted and we were woken with Gregorian chants. Separate showers and WC for women & men, were a plus and they had benches where you could put your dry clothing to get dressed.
*Municipal in Azofra had unique 2 bed "cells" which was nice and they had lots of shelving for your pack and stuff. Big courtyard with a wonderful foot bath. Showers need to be upgraded! No dry spots, no place to hang your stuff or sit it down and they are shared showers.(not the shower cubicle, but the whole bathroom area)
*Cistercian Cloister in Santo Domingo was cool as it is an old nunnery and had wonderful timbers, a large kitchen to use and they lit a fire in the common room/kitchen, while we were there.
*San Luis de Francia in Villamayor offered rooms that were just for 4 people where you slept on the bottom bunk and could spread all your pack out on the top bunk which is a shelf. The owner made us one of the best meals we had, with veggies from her garden. Great shower & WC rooms.
*San Anton Abad in Villafranca Montes de Oca offered a large room with single beds that had dividing walls between them. This offered some welcome privacy. Pilgrim menu here is overpriced for mediocre food.
*El Afar in Hornillos del Camino gets a mention cause of the friendly hosts and their wonderful efforts to make a yummy, huge paella and one of the best desserts on the Camino, a fluffy, fresh lemon sort of mousse. Nice common room and dining room.
*Estrella del Camino in Fromista has one of the nicest common rooms (with wood burning stove!), garden and dining room where the hosts make a good pilgrim menu and breakfast.
Hermanas Trinitarias in Leon isn't an Albergue, but they offer single and dbl. rooms for 20&25€ per night that include your own shower, fluffy towels, and breakfast. Very kind, friendly, and clean. Well worth the extra 10€ to stay here. Reservations recommended.
*Matias in Sarria. I didn't stay overnight here, but wish I had. Some of the best food I had along the Camino and very friendly.
*El Albergue de Boni in Salcede has small rooms for 3-5 people but offers the best showers (massage nozzles) on the Camino as well as the most enthusiastic host I encountered.
*Hospederia San Martin in Santiago was wonderful. Single room for 20€ with my own bath, duvet and giant fluffy towel and included a large Breakfast buffet. Pilgrim menu is pretty good but the dining room is spectacular. Reservations recommended! Santiago can be really noisy at night, so it was great to be in a place that was quiet. My albergue the night before was next to a party street. Noise until 04:00
I stayed in some other places of course, but these were my faves. Also stayed in a few pension along the way.
*Morgade was a favorite, with just 6 single beds in 1 room, with great blankets! Hosts were funny, friendly and the food was great. Lit a fire in the common room for us. The dbl rooms looked like a good bargain too. Lovely, ancient stone house surrounded by beautiful scenery.
*Casa Molar in Ventas de Naron, very welcoming hosts, in an ancient stone house with lovely scenery. They take your laundry and wash, dry and fold it for 6€. Pilgrim menu was pretty good and only 8.50€.
*San Saturnino in Ventosa was quite pretty with a great courtyard where everyone sat and chatted and we were woken with Gregorian chants. Separate showers and WC for women & men, were a plus and they had benches where you could put your dry clothing to get dressed.
*Municipal in Azofra had unique 2 bed "cells" which was nice and they had lots of shelving for your pack and stuff. Big courtyard with a wonderful foot bath. Showers need to be upgraded! No dry spots, no place to hang your stuff or sit it down and they are shared showers.(not the shower cubicle, but the whole bathroom area)
*Cistercian Cloister in Santo Domingo was cool as it is an old nunnery and had wonderful timbers, a large kitchen to use and they lit a fire in the common room/kitchen, while we were there.
*San Luis de Francia in Villamayor offered rooms that were just for 4 people where you slept on the bottom bunk and could spread all your pack out on the top bunk which is a shelf. The owner made us one of the best meals we had, with veggies from her garden. Great shower & WC rooms.
*San Anton Abad in Villafranca Montes de Oca offered a large room with single beds that had dividing walls between them. This offered some welcome privacy. Pilgrim menu here is overpriced for mediocre food.
*El Afar in Hornillos del Camino gets a mention cause of the friendly hosts and their wonderful efforts to make a yummy, huge paella and one of the best desserts on the Camino, a fluffy, fresh lemon sort of mousse. Nice common room and dining room.
*Estrella del Camino in Fromista has one of the nicest common rooms (with wood burning stove!), garden and dining room where the hosts make a good pilgrim menu and breakfast.
Hermanas Trinitarias in Leon isn't an Albergue, but they offer single and dbl. rooms for 20&25€ per night that include your own shower, fluffy towels, and breakfast. Very kind, friendly, and clean. Well worth the extra 10€ to stay here. Reservations recommended.
*Matias in Sarria. I didn't stay overnight here, but wish I had. Some of the best food I had along the Camino and very friendly.
*El Albergue de Boni in Salcede has small rooms for 3-5 people but offers the best showers (massage nozzles) on the Camino as well as the most enthusiastic host I encountered.
*Hospederia San Martin in Santiago was wonderful. Single room for 20€ with my own bath, duvet and giant fluffy towel and included a large Breakfast buffet. Pilgrim menu is pretty good but the dining room is spectacular. Reservations recommended! Santiago can be really noisy at night, so it was great to be in a place that was quiet. My albergue the night before was next to a party street. Noise until 04:00
I stayed in some other places of course, but these were my faves. Also stayed in a few pension along the way.
Nov 4th, 2016, 09:57 AM
#91
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Yes, I am going back!
Once I decided to start walking in stages, I had this idea I would like to walk into Santiago de Compostela on my 60th birthday, but thought it would be impossible.
However, having now walked pretty much half-way across Spain on the Camino Frances, and being eager to continue, I have decided to skip a largish chunk of kilometres (which I can walk at a later date).
So, I will be in Santiago de Compostela next April for my 60th birthday - having walked from Sarria (or maybe Barbadelo). My adult children will join me for several days, some to walk with me, some just for the party days. My 87yo father may fly over if he is well enough, as will my best friend. I have already reserved rooms at Hotel Costa Vella. I am so excited! And happy to have the opportunity to celebrate in this way.
Also, I am seriously considering using my last few days of work leave in March, braving the elements (wind, snow, rain, and the accompanying mud) and walking from Astorga to Sarria. It's either doing that or going skiing... I think there will be snow whatever I choose!
Once I decided to start walking in stages, I had this idea I would like to walk into Santiago de Compostela on my 60th birthday, but thought it would be impossible.
However, having now walked pretty much half-way across Spain on the Camino Frances, and being eager to continue, I have decided to skip a largish chunk of kilometres (which I can walk at a later date).
So, I will be in Santiago de Compostela next April for my 60th birthday - having walked from Sarria (or maybe Barbadelo). My adult children will join me for several days, some to walk with me, some just for the party days. My 87yo father may fly over if he is well enough, as will my best friend. I have already reserved rooms at Hotel Costa Vella. I am so excited! And happy to have the opportunity to celebrate in this way.
Also, I am seriously considering using my last few days of work leave in March, braving the elements (wind, snow, rain, and the accompanying mud) and walking from Astorga to Sarria. It's either doing that or going skiing... I think there will be snow whatever I choose!
May 14th, 2017, 09:27 AM
#93
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UPDATE - I have now finished!
I walked into Santiago de Compostela in time to celebrate my 60th birthday. My eldest daughter flew over from Japan to walk the last 110km with me, and we were met in the city square by my other daughter and one of my sons (the other is in Australia and waiting on a visa so he can't leave the country).
In March I walked from Astorga to Barbadelo (staying in Sarria because nothing in Barbadelo was open at that time of year). During that week I walked in sunshine (getting a little burnt one afternoon) and in 6 inches of snow over O Cebriero!
I have had to skip approximately 140km to enable me to reach Santiago de Compostela in time for my birthday, but I have still walked around 650km across Spain, and crossed the Pyrenees from France.
I'm posting below the list of places I stayed, just to bring closure to this thread, and in the hope it may help someone in the future.
ASTORGA - Hotel Gaudi €45 single ensuite room
20km - RABANAL EL CAMINO – Albergue Nuestra Senora del Pilar €5 single bunk in large dorm room
16km - El ACEBO – Casa del Peregrino – €10 pilgrim dinner €12
32km - PIEROS – Albergue El Serbal y La Luna €5 pilgrim dinner €10
17km - TRABADELO – Albergue Crispeta €8 pilgrim dinner €10
19km - LAGUNA DE CASTILLA – Albergue La Escuela €20 shared twin room pilgrim dinner €10
24km - TRICASTELA – Albergue Complexo Xacobeo - €9
14km - SAMOS – Hotel A Viega €28 single occupancy in double room
11km - SARRIA – Albergue Don Alvaro - €9
4km - BARBADELO – Albergue 108 to Santiago €29 twin room shared bathroom
18km - PORTOMARIN – Pension Portomino €45 twin room ensuite
20km - LODOSO (near Portos) – Casa Rural Roan y Casa Grande €63 twin room ensuite dinner €20 each
20km - MELIDE – Pension Pereiro - €40 twin room ensuite
14km - ARZUA – La Casona de Nene - €49 twin room shared bathroom
19km - O PEDROUZO – Pension Codesal €44 twin room ensuite
20km - SANTIAGO de COMPOSTELA – Hotel Costa Vella €97 twin room ensuite with balcony
Hospederia San Martin Pinario €23 single room ensuite inc breakfast
I walked into Santiago de Compostela in time to celebrate my 60th birthday. My eldest daughter flew over from Japan to walk the last 110km with me, and we were met in the city square by my other daughter and one of my sons (the other is in Australia and waiting on a visa so he can't leave the country).
In March I walked from Astorga to Barbadelo (staying in Sarria because nothing in Barbadelo was open at that time of year). During that week I walked in sunshine (getting a little burnt one afternoon) and in 6 inches of snow over O Cebriero!
I have had to skip approximately 140km to enable me to reach Santiago de Compostela in time for my birthday, but I have still walked around 650km across Spain, and crossed the Pyrenees from France.
I'm posting below the list of places I stayed, just to bring closure to this thread, and in the hope it may help someone in the future.
ASTORGA - Hotel Gaudi €45 single ensuite room
20km - RABANAL EL CAMINO – Albergue Nuestra Senora del Pilar €5 single bunk in large dorm room
16km - El ACEBO – Casa del Peregrino – €10 pilgrim dinner €12
32km - PIEROS – Albergue El Serbal y La Luna €5 pilgrim dinner €10
17km - TRABADELO – Albergue Crispeta €8 pilgrim dinner €10
19km - LAGUNA DE CASTILLA – Albergue La Escuela €20 shared twin room pilgrim dinner €10
24km - TRICASTELA – Albergue Complexo Xacobeo - €9
14km - SAMOS – Hotel A Viega €28 single occupancy in double room
11km - SARRIA – Albergue Don Alvaro - €9
4km - BARBADELO – Albergue 108 to Santiago €29 twin room shared bathroom
18km - PORTOMARIN – Pension Portomino €45 twin room ensuite
20km - LODOSO (near Portos) – Casa Rural Roan y Casa Grande €63 twin room ensuite dinner €20 each
20km - MELIDE – Pension Pereiro - €40 twin room ensuite
14km - ARZUA – La Casona de Nene - €49 twin room shared bathroom
19km - O PEDROUZO – Pension Codesal €44 twin room ensuite
20km - SANTIAGO de COMPOSTELA – Hotel Costa Vella €97 twin room ensuite with balcony
Hospederia San Martin Pinario €23 single room ensuite inc breakfast
May 16th, 2017, 09:58 AM
#98
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Thank you for the good wishes and congratulations.
Yes, I did get my compostela! Dated on my 60th birthday, which was what I wanted.
There are some photos on my Camino blog on facebook - it's a public page so you don't have to have joined facebook. They are a bit muddled because my laptop won't allow me to drag-and-drop at the moment so I can't move the pics around into proper order (they were taken on assorted phones and cameras).
https://www.facebook.com/juliawalksthecaminodesantiago/
annhig - this autumn I will be visiting my son in Australia, but next spring I plan to visit my daughter who's now living in Tokyo. And when in Japan - well it's got to be the Kumano Kodo! It's the only other Unesco pilgrimage trail in the world, and there's now a Dual Pilgrim award. It looks absolutely beautiful...
http://globalcommute.com/the-kumano-...es-mount-fuji/
https://en.visitwakayama.jp/themes/w...rimage-routes/
http://www.irishtimes.com/life-and-s...mino-1.2853646
Yes, I did get my compostela! Dated on my 60th birthday, which was what I wanted.
There are some photos on my Camino blog on facebook - it's a public page so you don't have to have joined facebook. They are a bit muddled because my laptop won't allow me to drag-and-drop at the moment so I can't move the pics around into proper order (they were taken on assorted phones and cameras).
https://www.facebook.com/juliawalksthecaminodesantiago/
annhig - this autumn I will be visiting my son in Australia, but next spring I plan to visit my daughter who's now living in Tokyo. And when in Japan - well it's got to be the Kumano Kodo! It's the only other Unesco pilgrimage trail in the world, and there's now a Dual Pilgrim award. It looks absolutely beautiful...
http://globalcommute.com/the-kumano-...es-mount-fuji/
https://en.visitwakayama.jp/themes/w...rimage-routes/
http://www.irishtimes.com/life-and-s...mino-1.2853646
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