Of Paris, Poilane's, Paul's, pate, and yes, pigeon poop.
Oct 4th, 2004, 01:09 PM
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Of Paris, Poilane's, Paul's, pate, and yes, pigeon poop.
My wife, Corinne (now of 30 years), and I returned from her first visit to Paris this past weekend. This trip was almost a year in the planning, and thanks to the help of many of you, was one of memories for a lifetime. By way of a trip report, rather than that you suffer through my journal, I'll just share some thoughts and observations jotted on the return flight. But first, some preliminaries.
Trip dates: September 23 ? October 2. Where'd we stay? At the Hotel du Danube, on rue Jacob in the sixth. We really liked this location, with its proximity to d'Orsay, the Louvre, Notre Dame, Latin Quarter, and St. Germain des Pres area shopping. And, we liked the hotel too; rooms are nice sized, staff is friendly and helpful (especially Francois), and the place has a look and ambience that say Paris. The only detractions were the noise level (we had a street-side room), and a lack of A/C, which would have been nice on the couple days it got above 70. But, we would happily stay there again.
Our "must do" list? Very short. Corinne's was to shop for and buy a tarte tatin pan at Dehillerin (which, she said, is the only place in the world she knows of to buy one), and to see the labyrinth in the cathedral in Chartres. Mine was to follow Corinne, take some photographs, buy a painting at Place du Tertre (yeah, I know, "touristy" and all that, but I'd bought Corinne a painting there some 33 years ago), eat good food, drink good wine, and stop at as many sidewalk cafes, patisseries, and boulangers as practical. Along the way, we expected to see some art, and do some sightseeing. We've learned that extensive must do's often lead to the disappointment of not making it through the entire list, and have gotten comfortable with an if we don't know about it, we can't miss it sort of philosophy. Works for us, anyway.
Favorite stuff. For Corinne, the linkage between standing in a 1000 year old Chartres cathedral and standing in the church we attend, fresh baguettes from Paul's or Poilane, macarons, a sparkling Tour Eiffel, the market streets Mouffetard, Cler, and Buci (in that order), dinners at Le Florimond and Aux Anysetiers due Roy (on Ile St. Louis), Rodin's Thinker, shopping at Dehillerin, sitting in the cafe on Place du Tertre watching me sweat through negotiating to buy a painting, and narrow cobbled streets. Mine? The works of art in the windows of a patisserie, the aromas of a boulangerie and a fromagerie, the ambience of a crowded sidewalk cafe, a crowded Place du Tertre, an imaginative sidewalk performer, and the satisfaction that comes when, after much struggle, you communicate, though even at a very basic level, with someone in their own language.
Disappointments? Few, really. I'd like to have taken better photos, but that's a case of not enough practice. (By the way, what's with the "night" mode on a 3.2 mega-pix digital that allows Corinne to take better hand-held photos of a lit Tour Eiffel than I with a $600 SLR and tripod?) We'd like to maybe have eaten at more of the restaurants recommended by you all. But then, we'd have missed places we like to think we discovered on our own. (A case of over-research? Or, maybe fits in with the don't know about it, can't miss it philosophy.) We'd like to have better connected with the "culture." But, according to The Piano Shop on the Left Bank, that's an issue of time that we didn't have. And we were able to connect on many levels with what we found to be, almost without exception, helpful, friendly, and hospitable Parisians. I guess we'd like to have seen Mona Lisa. But, the thought of trying to find it in the overwhelmingly huge Louvre was enough to keep us out. And, I can't think of a good reason to see it, but maybe I don't need one.
Other stuff of apparent interest to fodorites. Dog poop? Yes, lots of it. Just pay attention to where you step. Bird poop? Yes, some. From personal experience, just pay attention to where you sit. Public urination? Didn't see any, but there's lots of evidence. Pickpockets? I guess we chose a good time to visit because the crowds were small enough that we didn't once feel threatened by the possibility. But, there were numerous warning signs posted. None of this stuff - even sitting in pigeon poop - detracted in any way from our enjoyment. It's a matter of attitude.
Final thoughts. There's something to be said about Francois's claim that the US is homogenizing the developed world. With (at least) McDonald's, KFC, Pizza Hut, Gap, and Starbuck's already there, it's discouraging to imagine what the (d)evolution might be. So, see it while it's still there. Will we go back? Maybe, but it's moved down the list now. Though Corinne loved being there, she didn't fall in love with the City. I'm hearing something about Italy in a year or two, and a return trip to French Polynesia is often in her dreams.
Questions yet to ponder. What is it about a place that causes one to fall in love with it? For us, I think it has to do with natural vs. man-made. Is capitalism a global solution? Is democracy a global solution? How will God show up in a culture like that of Paris's and my own, where, other than at a surface level, He is generally denied or ignored? And, what's my role in that?
Answers anyone?
Trip dates: September 23 ? October 2. Where'd we stay? At the Hotel du Danube, on rue Jacob in the sixth. We really liked this location, with its proximity to d'Orsay, the Louvre, Notre Dame, Latin Quarter, and St. Germain des Pres area shopping. And, we liked the hotel too; rooms are nice sized, staff is friendly and helpful (especially Francois), and the place has a look and ambience that say Paris. The only detractions were the noise level (we had a street-side room), and a lack of A/C, which would have been nice on the couple days it got above 70. But, we would happily stay there again.
Our "must do" list? Very short. Corinne's was to shop for and buy a tarte tatin pan at Dehillerin (which, she said, is the only place in the world she knows of to buy one), and to see the labyrinth in the cathedral in Chartres. Mine was to follow Corinne, take some photographs, buy a painting at Place du Tertre (yeah, I know, "touristy" and all that, but I'd bought Corinne a painting there some 33 years ago), eat good food, drink good wine, and stop at as many sidewalk cafes, patisseries, and boulangers as practical. Along the way, we expected to see some art, and do some sightseeing. We've learned that extensive must do's often lead to the disappointment of not making it through the entire list, and have gotten comfortable with an if we don't know about it, we can't miss it sort of philosophy. Works for us, anyway.
Favorite stuff. For Corinne, the linkage between standing in a 1000 year old Chartres cathedral and standing in the church we attend, fresh baguettes from Paul's or Poilane, macarons, a sparkling Tour Eiffel, the market streets Mouffetard, Cler, and Buci (in that order), dinners at Le Florimond and Aux Anysetiers due Roy (on Ile St. Louis), Rodin's Thinker, shopping at Dehillerin, sitting in the cafe on Place du Tertre watching me sweat through negotiating to buy a painting, and narrow cobbled streets. Mine? The works of art in the windows of a patisserie, the aromas of a boulangerie and a fromagerie, the ambience of a crowded sidewalk cafe, a crowded Place du Tertre, an imaginative sidewalk performer, and the satisfaction that comes when, after much struggle, you communicate, though even at a very basic level, with someone in their own language.
Disappointments? Few, really. I'd like to have taken better photos, but that's a case of not enough practice. (By the way, what's with the "night" mode on a 3.2 mega-pix digital that allows Corinne to take better hand-held photos of a lit Tour Eiffel than I with a $600 SLR and tripod?) We'd like to maybe have eaten at more of the restaurants recommended by you all. But then, we'd have missed places we like to think we discovered on our own. (A case of over-research? Or, maybe fits in with the don't know about it, can't miss it philosophy.) We'd like to have better connected with the "culture." But, according to The Piano Shop on the Left Bank, that's an issue of time that we didn't have. And we were able to connect on many levels with what we found to be, almost without exception, helpful, friendly, and hospitable Parisians. I guess we'd like to have seen Mona Lisa. But, the thought of trying to find it in the overwhelmingly huge Louvre was enough to keep us out. And, I can't think of a good reason to see it, but maybe I don't need one.
Other stuff of apparent interest to fodorites. Dog poop? Yes, lots of it. Just pay attention to where you step. Bird poop? Yes, some. From personal experience, just pay attention to where you sit. Public urination? Didn't see any, but there's lots of evidence. Pickpockets? I guess we chose a good time to visit because the crowds were small enough that we didn't once feel threatened by the possibility. But, there were numerous warning signs posted. None of this stuff - even sitting in pigeon poop - detracted in any way from our enjoyment. It's a matter of attitude.
Final thoughts. There's something to be said about Francois's claim that the US is homogenizing the developed world. With (at least) McDonald's, KFC, Pizza Hut, Gap, and Starbuck's already there, it's discouraging to imagine what the (d)evolution might be. So, see it while it's still there. Will we go back? Maybe, but it's moved down the list now. Though Corinne loved being there, she didn't fall in love with the City. I'm hearing something about Italy in a year or two, and a return trip to French Polynesia is often in her dreams.
Questions yet to ponder. What is it about a place that causes one to fall in love with it? For us, I think it has to do with natural vs. man-made. Is capitalism a global solution? Is democracy a global solution? How will God show up in a culture like that of Paris's and my own, where, other than at a surface level, He is generally denied or ignored? And, what's my role in that?
Answers anyone?
Oct 4th, 2004, 01:18 PM
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I definitely have no answers Beachbum...but I did love your report! Sounds like you both just had a great time. Sometimes on our travels we also miss "must do's"...but we have so far never regretted it. Welcome back!
) And François is a dear. We're moving down the food chain though and staying at Hotel Muguet later this month.
Oct 4th, 2004, 01:36 PM
#5
Thanks you for your wonderful compact report.---Here's one answer, a 1929 quote in the book, "A Place in the World called Paris."----"There is another quality, inseparably connected with Paris, which may be termed "Vitality"-merely an expression for those who do not know Paris, but for those who have spent only a few days there,the finest experience which the city offers, a something which pervades the people, the surroundings, and the whole atmasphere. Moreover, the Paris of today keeps alive its past history, and this rare unity produces a great wealth of variety, adding profundity to laregeness and fulness."
Oct 4th, 2004, 01:48 PM
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Ira, That was from the 1929 Grieben's guide book, Paris and environs.
"A place in the world called Paris."is a must for those who love the city.(like beachbum) It's all quotes from writers and artists.
"A place in the world called Paris."is a must for those who love the city.(like beachbum) It's all quotes from writers and artists.
Oct 4th, 2004, 01:56 PM
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beachbum, thanks for the report and your thoughtful insights. Rodin's Museum makes me goosey everytime I go there, the sculpture, gardens, photo opportunities. Speaking of which, just bought said digital camera yesterday, oooh now I'm excited!
Oct 4th, 2004, 02:37 PM
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Thanks for the quote, cigalechanta. Wish I could express the same feelings so well.
It's only a matter of time, ira.
One addendum to our list of favorites; hearing matins chanted by nuns in Sacre Coeur. Sends chills down my spine. (As an aside, I concluded that the most frustrating job in all of Paris is trying to keep tourists from taking photos in Sacre Coeur)
It's only a matter of time, ira.
One addendum to our list of favorites; hearing matins chanted by nuns in Sacre Coeur. Sends chills down my spine. (As an aside, I concluded that the most frustrating job in all of Paris is trying to keep tourists from taking photos in Sacre Coeur)
Oct 4th, 2004, 03:01 PM
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Bonsoir beachbum, welcome back!
I am so happy to hear that you liked the hotel and that you had such a fine time.
We see things in much the same way, but I agree with Cigales quote, there is something about Paris that grabbed me the minute I arrived, and I cannot find that anywhere else..
We loved Portland and hope to be back soon
I am so happy to hear that you liked the hotel and that you had such a fine time.
We see things in much the same way, but I agree with Cigales quote, there is something about Paris that grabbed me the minute I arrived, and I cannot find that anywhere else..
We loved Portland and hope to be back soon
Oct 4th, 2004, 04:10 PM
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Thanks, Scarlett. You were right about the lift at du Danube. We burst out laughing as we tried to squeeze ourselves and our luggage into it.. great fun. (Sorry for the crossing posts on your Portland report)
No, degas, we're both born and raised pacific northwesterners. Corinne is an uncommon name, at least around here. I think my father-in-law had a thing for Corinne Calvet, or maybe just liked the name. As to why 33 years before returning to Paris... been asking myself the same question.
No, degas, we're both born and raised pacific northwesterners. Corinne is an uncommon name, at least around here. I think my father-in-law had a thing for Corinne Calvet, or maybe just liked the name. As to why 33 years before returning to Paris... been asking myself the same question.
Oct 4th, 2004, 06:28 PM
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Beachbum, what a wonderful trip report. I'm still overdue for writing one for my September trip and you've captured the flavor of what I have been struggling to write... and you've done it in such a concise and lyrical way.
Glad you had such a fabulous time.
~k
Glad you had such a fabulous time.
~k
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