Notes on Venice, Bassano del Grappa, Garda, Cremona & Milan (Sept 2016)
Jan 13th, 2017, 03:27 PM
#21
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WEDNESDAY, SEPTEMBER 14TH
Despite all preparations, a map & our GPS, the route to <b>Monte Grappa</b> eluded us. We had the landmark in clear sight but the GPS had us driving away from the mountain! It was time to turn off the GPS, follow the signs back to Bassano and start over!
Sheepishly, we returned to the hotel. With the assistance of a guest who kindly translated for me, Zaccaria explained the way to Monte Grappa. Simple, according to Zaccaria! And with his impeccable directions, we were on our way.
Soon, DH was navigating the narrow winding mountain road which we shared with bicycles, cars, a slow-moving tractor and donkeys. We drove by lovely alpine meadows where cows & sheep grazed. We could see walking paths cut into the hills. Monte Grappa was a place for serious hikers and hang gliders. And as we gained altitude, Bassano del Grappa looked smaller & smaller below. We reached the summit at 1775 meters/5829 feet.
Placed on the mountain top, there is <b>Sacrario Militare di Cima Grappa</b>, an extraordinary national memorial that was completed in 1935. The Sacrario consists of 6 concentric terraces. Behind curved walls, the remains of over 12,000 Italian servicemen rest, the majority of whom are unidentified. At the top is <b>Santuario della Madonna del Grappa</b> which holds a statue of the Virgin and Child. From here, a 300 meter paved road leads to the <b>Portale di Roma e Il Museo Storico</b>. Stairs on either side of it go to an observation terrace behind. To the north, there is another Sacrario which contains the bones of the former enemy - 10,295 Austro-Hungarians. It was here on this mountain that WWI battles took place.
It all was very moving. This visit left me wanting to know more.
We were quiet as we had a simple lunch of panini & drinks at the cafeteria near the parking lot.
The trip down was direct!
Tonight, we walked below arched porticoes to <b>Ristorante Birraria Ottone</b>. The dining room was lovely - decorated with period details. It was formal but not overly so. The food was very good and the service, unhurried.
DH had a caprese salad, Hungarian goulash + coconut panna cotta with pineapple. I had tuna tartar, bigoli with duck ragu (again!) + panna cotta with berries. Wine accompanied our meal.
Over the evening as diners came & went, the atmosphere became more relaxed. It was obvious that some folks come here regularly here by the animated greetings that were exchanged. It was fun to watch!
Next: Market Day and a drive to Asolo
Despite all preparations, a map & our GPS, the route to <b>Monte Grappa</b> eluded us. We had the landmark in clear sight but the GPS had us driving away from the mountain! It was time to turn off the GPS, follow the signs back to Bassano and start over!
Sheepishly, we returned to the hotel. With the assistance of a guest who kindly translated for me, Zaccaria explained the way to Monte Grappa. Simple, according to Zaccaria! And with his impeccable directions, we were on our way.
Soon, DH was navigating the narrow winding mountain road which we shared with bicycles, cars, a slow-moving tractor and donkeys. We drove by lovely alpine meadows where cows & sheep grazed. We could see walking paths cut into the hills. Monte Grappa was a place for serious hikers and hang gliders. And as we gained altitude, Bassano del Grappa looked smaller & smaller below. We reached the summit at 1775 meters/5829 feet.
Placed on the mountain top, there is <b>Sacrario Militare di Cima Grappa</b>, an extraordinary national memorial that was completed in 1935. The Sacrario consists of 6 concentric terraces. Behind curved walls, the remains of over 12,000 Italian servicemen rest, the majority of whom are unidentified. At the top is <b>Santuario della Madonna del Grappa</b> which holds a statue of the Virgin and Child. From here, a 300 meter paved road leads to the <b>Portale di Roma e Il Museo Storico</b>. Stairs on either side of it go to an observation terrace behind. To the north, there is another Sacrario which contains the bones of the former enemy - 10,295 Austro-Hungarians. It was here on this mountain that WWI battles took place.
It all was very moving. This visit left me wanting to know more.
We were quiet as we had a simple lunch of panini & drinks at the cafeteria near the parking lot.
The trip down was direct!
Tonight, we walked below arched porticoes to <b>Ristorante Birraria Ottone</b>. The dining room was lovely - decorated with period details. It was formal but not overly so. The food was very good and the service, unhurried.
DH had a caprese salad, Hungarian goulash + coconut panna cotta with pineapple. I had tuna tartar, bigoli with duck ragu (again!) + panna cotta with berries. Wine accompanied our meal.
Over the evening as diners came & went, the atmosphere became more relaxed. It was obvious that some folks come here regularly here by the animated greetings that were exchanged. It was fun to watch!
Next: Market Day and a drive to Asolo
Jan 14th, 2017, 02:45 PM
#23
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THURSDAY, SEPTEMBER 15TH
It was <b>Market Day</b> in Bassano. Stalls covered the two main piazzas + smaller squares and they lined the streets in between. It was huge and bustling with shoppers!
Our first stop was <b>La Bufanda</b>, the hat shop on Piazza Liberta. Tatiana, the shop keeper assisted me as I tried on four styles of hats in various colours. Only an Italian designer can elevate a simple, classic hat to something extraordinary with the shape or turn of a brim and a bow detail. I decided to buy two hats: a black felt fedora with an asymmetrical brim and one with a rounded crown and a turned-up brim. Classic but modern - loved them! My plan was to take them onto the airplane (from Milan) as a personal carry-on item and pray that they traveled safely home in the overhead bin. If the package did not comply with airline regulations then I would have to wear one hat and DH, the other!
We wandered through market fascinated as we checked out the wares at each stall. It was odd to see sleeveless t-shirts being sold at one stall and faux fur jackets at another. Must have been transitioning from summer to fall! It was great fun to watch shoppers and vendors chat and do business. I did a little business, too. I picked up a pretty cotton table cloth. DH eyed some face cloths (not supplied at our hotel). Why he didn't buy a few to use here & to take with us for the rest of the trip, I'm not sure.
We took our purchases back to the hotel. Our plan was to go <b>Asolo</b> for the afternoon. We grabbed our jackets & an umbrella. We left Bassano under cloudy, gray skies. It was cooler today - only 19 degrees Celsius.
Asolo was on our radar as a place to base when we were working on our itinerary. So, we looked forward to going for lunch and exploring the town a bit.
It was an easy drive, close by. We parked in a large parking garage. We discovered that it was a bit of hike through an attractive residential area up to the main part of the town.
We stopped for lunch at a casual, go-to-the-counter-and-order/pay restaurant on the main square. We sat a table outside where we could watch life and luxury cars pass by. As we did, we noticed that the sky was getting darker.
We started our walk through the town. The shops were closed for the afternoon but it was still fun to peek at the artfully arranged window displays. Soon, the rain began to fall ... slowly at first but then changed into a downpour. Thank goodness for the porticoes which provided some shelter from the weather. We dashed across to the Cattedrale di Santa Maria Assunta which gave us refuge from the worse part of the storm. We could hear thunder nearby. Eventually, the rain subsided but we made the decision to return to Bassano. We were disappointed that we didn't see more of Asolo.
More to follow ....
It was <b>Market Day</b> in Bassano. Stalls covered the two main piazzas + smaller squares and they lined the streets in between. It was huge and bustling with shoppers!
Our first stop was <b>La Bufanda</b>, the hat shop on Piazza Liberta. Tatiana, the shop keeper assisted me as I tried on four styles of hats in various colours. Only an Italian designer can elevate a simple, classic hat to something extraordinary with the shape or turn of a brim and a bow detail. I decided to buy two hats: a black felt fedora with an asymmetrical brim and one with a rounded crown and a turned-up brim. Classic but modern - loved them! My plan was to take them onto the airplane (from Milan) as a personal carry-on item and pray that they traveled safely home in the overhead bin. If the package did not comply with airline regulations then I would have to wear one hat and DH, the other!
We wandered through market fascinated as we checked out the wares at each stall. It was odd to see sleeveless t-shirts being sold at one stall and faux fur jackets at another. Must have been transitioning from summer to fall! It was great fun to watch shoppers and vendors chat and do business. I did a little business, too. I picked up a pretty cotton table cloth. DH eyed some face cloths (not supplied at our hotel). Why he didn't buy a few to use here & to take with us for the rest of the trip, I'm not sure.
We took our purchases back to the hotel. Our plan was to go <b>Asolo</b> for the afternoon. We grabbed our jackets & an umbrella. We left Bassano under cloudy, gray skies. It was cooler today - only 19 degrees Celsius.
Asolo was on our radar as a place to base when we were working on our itinerary. So, we looked forward to going for lunch and exploring the town a bit.
It was an easy drive, close by. We parked in a large parking garage. We discovered that it was a bit of hike through an attractive residential area up to the main part of the town.
We stopped for lunch at a casual, go-to-the-counter-and-order/pay restaurant on the main square. We sat a table outside where we could watch life and luxury cars pass by. As we did, we noticed that the sky was getting darker.
We started our walk through the town. The shops were closed for the afternoon but it was still fun to peek at the artfully arranged window displays. Soon, the rain began to fall ... slowly at first but then changed into a downpour. Thank goodness for the porticoes which provided some shelter from the weather. We dashed across to the Cattedrale di Santa Maria Assunta which gave us refuge from the worse part of the storm. We could hear thunder nearby. Eventually, the rain subsided but we made the decision to return to Bassano. We were disappointed that we didn't see more of Asolo.
More to follow ....
Jan 15th, 2017, 09:30 AM
#24
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Thanks to those who have been following along.
I am committed to finish this trip report but will do so in an abbreviated format listing where we stayed; things we did; and restaurant recommendations.
If someone reading has questions or comments, I will be happy to reply.
2010
I am committed to finish this trip report but will do so in an abbreviated format listing where we stayed; things we did; and restaurant recommendations.
If someone reading has questions or comments, I will be happy to reply.
2010
Jan 15th, 2017, 03:02 PM
#25
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<b>BASSANO DEL GRAPPA</b> - ... to Friday, September 16th
<b>Day Trip to Belluno</b>:
Located in northern Veneto, Belluno is perched above the Piave River and is backed by the Dolomites. What a dramatic setting! It was 2.5 hour drive from Bassano to Belluno. There is a parking lot at the base of the town. We took 3 sets of escalators to the top.
After lunch, we walked around and found ourselves on Piazza del Duomo. We visited the 16th century Basilica Cattedrale de San Martino.
We drove back to Bassano via Vittorio Veneto.
<b>Restaurants</b>:
<b>Trattoria Alice</b> - Arrived to large, cavernous room with tables set in various configurations to fit two large groups (up to 20) and smaller groups (6-8) for families. The atmosphere was casual & lively. We came here for the barbecue meats (rib-eye steak, ribs).
www.trattoriaalice.it
<b>GARDA</b> - Saturday, September 17th - Tuesday, September 20th
<b>Where we stayed</b>:
<b>Hotel La Vittoria</b> - This is a beautiful hotel which is situated at the north end of the promenade, just steps from the ferry terminal. Breakfast was served on the outdoor covered terrace. The restaurant sits on the other side of the promenade on the lake shore. We had a second-floor corner bedroom with a balcony and a view of Lake Garda. We parked our car in an off-sight parking lot which we arranged ahead of time with the hotel.
<b>What we saw/did</b>:
<b>Garda</b>: The premier feature of Garda is its promenade that follows the lake shore. Day or night, it was a lovely place for a stroll. The other side of the promenade is lined with hotels & restaurants. The town is small though there are shops & a few restaurants along narrow streets. Garda never felt crowded when we were there in September. Overall, it was a very pleasant place to stay.
<b>Salo</b>: We took a fast ferry across the lake to Salo. The 20-minute boat ride was very scenic. Salo is an attractive town with a promenade. The main shopping street runs parallel to the promenade. We spent a very nice, leisurely day here!
<b>Sermione</b>: We drove south from Garda along the lake through Bardolino, Lazise, Peschiera del Garda to Sermione. Our intention was to go for lunch in Sermione .... along with what seemed to be thousands of other cars + buses all vying for a parking spot! Discouraged, we turned around & left. Note to self: Take the ferry!
<b>Where we ate</b>:
<b>Di Vino</b> - We had dinner twice at Di Vino. On the first evening, we had the tasting menus. DH orderd the meat menu and I ordered the fish menu. Everything about our evening was outstanding: our meals, the service, the atmosphere! We simply had to return to order from the regular menu. We were not disappointed. The risotto was very, very good!
Via San Bernardo, 2
Tel. +39 045 6270715
Next: Cremona
<b>Day Trip to Belluno</b>:
Located in northern Veneto, Belluno is perched above the Piave River and is backed by the Dolomites. What a dramatic setting! It was 2.5 hour drive from Bassano to Belluno. There is a parking lot at the base of the town. We took 3 sets of escalators to the top.
After lunch, we walked around and found ourselves on Piazza del Duomo. We visited the 16th century Basilica Cattedrale de San Martino.
We drove back to Bassano via Vittorio Veneto.
<b>Restaurants</b>:
<b>Trattoria Alice</b> - Arrived to large, cavernous room with tables set in various configurations to fit two large groups (up to 20) and smaller groups (6-8) for families. The atmosphere was casual & lively. We came here for the barbecue meats (rib-eye steak, ribs).
www.trattoriaalice.it
<b>GARDA</b> - Saturday, September 17th - Tuesday, September 20th
<b>Where we stayed</b>:
<b>Hotel La Vittoria</b> - This is a beautiful hotel which is situated at the north end of the promenade, just steps from the ferry terminal. Breakfast was served on the outdoor covered terrace. The restaurant sits on the other side of the promenade on the lake shore. We had a second-floor corner bedroom with a balcony and a view of Lake Garda. We parked our car in an off-sight parking lot which we arranged ahead of time with the hotel.
<b>What we saw/did</b>:
<b>Garda</b>: The premier feature of Garda is its promenade that follows the lake shore. Day or night, it was a lovely place for a stroll. The other side of the promenade is lined with hotels & restaurants. The town is small though there are shops & a few restaurants along narrow streets. Garda never felt crowded when we were there in September. Overall, it was a very pleasant place to stay.
<b>Salo</b>: We took a fast ferry across the lake to Salo. The 20-minute boat ride was very scenic. Salo is an attractive town with a promenade. The main shopping street runs parallel to the promenade. We spent a very nice, leisurely day here!
<b>Sermione</b>: We drove south from Garda along the lake through Bardolino, Lazise, Peschiera del Garda to Sermione. Our intention was to go for lunch in Sermione .... along with what seemed to be thousands of other cars + buses all vying for a parking spot! Discouraged, we turned around & left. Note to self: Take the ferry!
<b>Where we ate</b>:
<b>Di Vino</b> - We had dinner twice at Di Vino. On the first evening, we had the tasting menus. DH orderd the meat menu and I ordered the fish menu. Everything about our evening was outstanding: our meals, the service, the atmosphere! We simply had to return to order from the regular menu. We were not disappointed. The risotto was very, very good!
Via San Bernardo, 2
Tel. +39 045 6270715
Next: Cremona
Jan 16th, 2017, 09:43 AM
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<b>CREMONA</b> - Tuesday, September 20th - Saturday, September 24th
<b>Where we stayed</b>:
<b>Astoria City Hotel</b>: We found the Astoria to be quirky, colorful and comfortable. The staff was personable & very helpful with restaurant recommendations and directions. Breakfast was very good and coffee was served by a charming barista. The hotel was well-located.
Before writing this, I double-checked the hotel's website. On it, I found an announcement that the Astoria is now CLOSED! How unexpected! Here's an excerpt from the announcement:
<i>"Life surprises you with unexpected things, sometimes good, sometimes bad ... that's life. This time it is a bad one; in fact, the Astoria Hotel is closed, and our adventure is over. ..... We will carry with us the memory of these difficult and sweet years, who knows that is not a farewell, but just a simple goodbye!"</i>
<b>What we saw/did</b>:
<b>Cremona</b>: Cremona is an attractive city of piazzas, churches, museums, parks, shops, restaurants, luthiers, Stradivari and banks ... lots & lots of banks!
<b>Piazza del Comune</b>: Piazza del Commune has the dual function of being a religious & civic centre: Duomo (12th century, Romanesque); Torrazzo (14th century, 112.7 meters tall) with its Astronomical Clock; Baptistery (12th century, octagonal in shape); and Palazzo Communal (13th century town hall).
<b>Antonio Stradivari</b>: Antonio Stradivari was born in Cremona in 1644. As a luthier, he created beautifully crafted stringed instruments such as violins, cellos, guitars & harps. Local lore says that Stradivari kept each instrument in his bedroom before varnishing it, imparting part of his soul before sealing and sending it out to the world. He died in 1737 at the age of 93. Stradivari continues to have a presence in Cremona.
<b>Museo del Violino</b>: The Museo del Violin showcases the long history of Cremonese violin making through nine rooms of exhibits. In the Treasure Box, there are 12 or so of the most important stringed instruments in Europe including Stradivari's 'Il Cremonese' violin (1715) and others by Guarneri and Amati. As a student of the cello, I was filled with awe & delight throughout our visit.
The instruments are regularly played at noon-hour recitals in the beautiful <b>Giovanni Arvedi Auditorium</b>. We attended a performance by Clarissa Bevilacqua, a very talented, 14 year old violinist. She played on the Stradivari violin 'Vesuvio' (1727). What a special treat!
More on Cremona to follow ...
<b>Where we stayed</b>:
<b>Astoria City Hotel</b>: We found the Astoria to be quirky, colorful and comfortable. The staff was personable & very helpful with restaurant recommendations and directions. Breakfast was very good and coffee was served by a charming barista. The hotel was well-located.
Before writing this, I double-checked the hotel's website. On it, I found an announcement that the Astoria is now CLOSED! How unexpected! Here's an excerpt from the announcement:
<i>"Life surprises you with unexpected things, sometimes good, sometimes bad ... that's life. This time it is a bad one; in fact, the Astoria Hotel is closed, and our adventure is over. ..... We will carry with us the memory of these difficult and sweet years, who knows that is not a farewell, but just a simple goodbye!"</i>
<b>What we saw/did</b>:
<b>Cremona</b>: Cremona is an attractive city of piazzas, churches, museums, parks, shops, restaurants, luthiers, Stradivari and banks ... lots & lots of banks!
<b>Piazza del Comune</b>: Piazza del Commune has the dual function of being a religious & civic centre: Duomo (12th century, Romanesque); Torrazzo (14th century, 112.7 meters tall) with its Astronomical Clock; Baptistery (12th century, octagonal in shape); and Palazzo Communal (13th century town hall).
<b>Antonio Stradivari</b>: Antonio Stradivari was born in Cremona in 1644. As a luthier, he created beautifully crafted stringed instruments such as violins, cellos, guitars & harps. Local lore says that Stradivari kept each instrument in his bedroom before varnishing it, imparting part of his soul before sealing and sending it out to the world. He died in 1737 at the age of 93. Stradivari continues to have a presence in Cremona.
<b>Museo del Violino</b>: The Museo del Violin showcases the long history of Cremonese violin making through nine rooms of exhibits. In the Treasure Box, there are 12 or so of the most important stringed instruments in Europe including Stradivari's 'Il Cremonese' violin (1715) and others by Guarneri and Amati. As a student of the cello, I was filled with awe & delight throughout our visit.
The instruments are regularly played at noon-hour recitals in the beautiful <b>Giovanni Arvedi Auditorium</b>. We attended a performance by Clarissa Bevilacqua, a very talented, 14 year old violinist. She played on the Stradivari violin 'Vesuvio' (1727). What a special treat!
More on Cremona to follow ...
Jan 16th, 2017, 03:12 PM
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Holly_uncasdewar: Thank you for your kind comments.
sundriedtopepo: I appreciate your feedback on the change of format. I think of it as writing down the 'essentials' of our trip. Seems to work!
Adelaidean: Glad this report piqued your interest in Bassano del Grappa. I think it is worth considering as a base in the Veneto.
sundriedtopepo: I appreciate your feedback on the change of format. I think of it as writing down the 'essentials' of our trip. Seems to work!
Adelaidean: Glad this report piqued your interest in Bassano del Grappa. I think it is worth considering as a base in the Veneto.
Jan 16th, 2017, 05:30 PM
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Thanks for your trip report. We're planning a trip to the Veneto next September, with a daytrip to Bassano del Grappa and maybe Asolo. I especially appreciate your restaurant reviews in Venice and beyond; will be noting your comments. We have fond memories of Vini da Gigio, so our palates align.
Jan 17th, 2017, 08:46 AM
#32
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<b>CREMONA</b>
<b>What we saw/did</b> continued ...
<b>Wednesday Market Day</b>: Large, bustling. We saw vendors selling squash, pumpkins, ornamental dried corn on the cob & gourds, cut hydrangea and umbrellas - sure signs of Fall! I bought two pashminas (silk/cashmere) which would be perfect for the coming seasons. DH bought face clothes which have not been offered in our hotels. For the first time, we received a hand-written receipt for a cash purchase! There is also a market day in Cremona on Saturday.
<b>Mantova</b>: Mantova is listed as a UNESCO World Heritage Site based on its Renaissance planning and architecture. We left knowing that we saw only a small part of this beautiful, historic city: Basilica di Santa' Andrea, Rotunda di San Lorenzo, Cattedrale di San Pietro, Piazza delle Herbe, Piazza Sordello & the man-made lakes that surround Mantova on three sides.
We had lunch at <b>Trattoria Ducale</b> (Piazza Sordello 13) which offered specialties from Mantova and the island of Mauritius in the Indian Ocean. I could not resist ordering chicken curry with basmati rice & lentils. DH had tortelli di zucca, a specialty of Mantova.
<b>Where we ate</b>:
<b>Osteria degli Archi</b>: This restaurant had a young, hip vibe. Attractive room, good music. Our meals were superb. The server & host were knowledgeable & enthusiastic about the food they were serving.
Corso XX Settembre, 14
<b>Hosteria 700</b>: Hosteria 700 is in a beautifully restored palazzo. Different rooms were set up in different table configurations - one for a large family party, others in smaller groupings. Elegant surroundings, elegant food, excellent service.
www.hosteria700.com
Next: Milan
<b>What we saw/did</b> continued ...
<b>Wednesday Market Day</b>: Large, bustling. We saw vendors selling squash, pumpkins, ornamental dried corn on the cob & gourds, cut hydrangea and umbrellas - sure signs of Fall! I bought two pashminas (silk/cashmere) which would be perfect for the coming seasons. DH bought face clothes which have not been offered in our hotels. For the first time, we received a hand-written receipt for a cash purchase! There is also a market day in Cremona on Saturday.
<b>Mantova</b>: Mantova is listed as a UNESCO World Heritage Site based on its Renaissance planning and architecture. We left knowing that we saw only a small part of this beautiful, historic city: Basilica di Santa' Andrea, Rotunda di San Lorenzo, Cattedrale di San Pietro, Piazza delle Herbe, Piazza Sordello & the man-made lakes that surround Mantova on three sides.
We had lunch at <b>Trattoria Ducale</b> (Piazza Sordello 13) which offered specialties from Mantova and the island of Mauritius in the Indian Ocean. I could not resist ordering chicken curry with basmati rice & lentils. DH had tortelli di zucca, a specialty of Mantova.
<b>Where we ate</b>:
<b>Osteria degli Archi</b>: This restaurant had a young, hip vibe. Attractive room, good music. Our meals were superb. The server & host were knowledgeable & enthusiastic about the food they were serving.
Corso XX Settembre, 14
<b>Hosteria 700</b>: Hosteria 700 is in a beautifully restored palazzo. Different rooms were set up in different table configurations - one for a large family party, others in smaller groupings. Elegant surroundings, elegant food, excellent service.
www.hosteria700.com
Next: Milan
Jan 18th, 2017, 02:56 PM
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<b>MILAN</b> - Saturday, September 24th-Wednesday September 28th
<b>From Cremona to Milan</b>: We drove to Piacenza to drop our car off at the Europcar rental office. It was a short walk to the train station where we bought two tickets for a late morning train to Milan. We arrived at Milano Centrale in under an hour. We took a cab to our hotel.
<b>Where we stayed</b>:
<b>Hotel Gran Duca Di York</b>: The Gran Ducal Di York is in an attractive historic 19th century building on a quiet street. It is located within walking distance to the Duomo and other Milan sites we wanted to visit. It has a lovely reception area, breakfast room & bar. Our quiet room overlooked a courtyard. The staff was courteous & helpful. They were able to get us tickets to the Last Supper when none seemed to be available!
www.ducadiyork.com
<b>What we did/saw</b>:
Milan's centerpiece is its magnificent <b>Duomo di Milano</b>, a large & elaborate Gothic cathedral. The interior is soaring and breathtakingly beautiful! We elected to take the elevator rather than climb the stairs to the cathedral's rooftop. From here, we walked amongst the marble spires and enjoyed the views of the city!
<b>Galleria Vittorio Emanuele</b> is a beautiful four-story, glass-domed arcade with luxury boutiques, restaurants & specialty stores. It is especially fun to window shop and to pop into some of the gorgeous stores! We had a delightful lunch at <b>Ristorante Galleria</b> where we sat at a table in the arcade and watched the world go by!
www.ristorantegalleria.it
Leonardo Da Vinci's <b>The Last Supper (Cenacolo Vinciano)</b> decorated the former dining hall of <b>Chiesa di Santa Maria delle Grazie</b>. Da Vinci was a master of bringing technique, content & form together into a magnificent work of art. His use of balance & perspective were brilliant. We had only 15 minutes to gaze at The Last Supper with our knowledgeable English-speaking guide. I knew that day, I was standing before an important & famous work of art and perhaps because of the subject, I felt a profound reverence while in its midst.
<b>Chiesa di Santa Maria delle Grazie</b> is a church and a Dominican convent. It is included in the UNESCO World Heritage Sites list. Pretty, light-filled. Glad we went through after we viewed that Last Supper.
<b>Teatro alla Scala: <i>La Scala and Its Secrets</i> Tour</b>: This is a very unique, behind-the-scenes look at the famous & historic opera house. The maximum number of participants is 10 but on this day, my husband & I were the only two - lucky us! Our guide, Francine Garino was excellent.
www.teatroallascala.org
More to follow ...
<b>From Cremona to Milan</b>: We drove to Piacenza to drop our car off at the Europcar rental office. It was a short walk to the train station where we bought two tickets for a late morning train to Milan. We arrived at Milano Centrale in under an hour. We took a cab to our hotel.
<b>Where we stayed</b>:
<b>Hotel Gran Duca Di York</b>: The Gran Ducal Di York is in an attractive historic 19th century building on a quiet street. It is located within walking distance to the Duomo and other Milan sites we wanted to visit. It has a lovely reception area, breakfast room & bar. Our quiet room overlooked a courtyard. The staff was courteous & helpful. They were able to get us tickets to the Last Supper when none seemed to be available!
www.ducadiyork.com
<b>What we did/saw</b>:
Milan's centerpiece is its magnificent <b>Duomo di Milano</b>, a large & elaborate Gothic cathedral. The interior is soaring and breathtakingly beautiful! We elected to take the elevator rather than climb the stairs to the cathedral's rooftop. From here, we walked amongst the marble spires and enjoyed the views of the city!
<b>Galleria Vittorio Emanuele</b> is a beautiful four-story, glass-domed arcade with luxury boutiques, restaurants & specialty stores. It is especially fun to window shop and to pop into some of the gorgeous stores! We had a delightful lunch at <b>Ristorante Galleria</b> where we sat at a table in the arcade and watched the world go by!
www.ristorantegalleria.it
Leonardo Da Vinci's <b>The Last Supper (Cenacolo Vinciano)</b> decorated the former dining hall of <b>Chiesa di Santa Maria delle Grazie</b>. Da Vinci was a master of bringing technique, content & form together into a magnificent work of art. His use of balance & perspective were brilliant. We had only 15 minutes to gaze at The Last Supper with our knowledgeable English-speaking guide. I knew that day, I was standing before an important & famous work of art and perhaps because of the subject, I felt a profound reverence while in its midst.
<b>Chiesa di Santa Maria delle Grazie</b> is a church and a Dominican convent. It is included in the UNESCO World Heritage Sites list. Pretty, light-filled. Glad we went through after we viewed that Last Supper.
<b>Teatro alla Scala: <i>La Scala and Its Secrets</i> Tour</b>: This is a very unique, behind-the-scenes look at the famous & historic opera house. The maximum number of participants is 10 but on this day, my husband & I were the only two - lucky us! Our guide, Francine Garino was excellent.
www.teatroallascala.org
More to follow ...
Jan 19th, 2017, 10:14 AM
#35
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<b>What we saw/did </b> continued ...
We spent an afternoon walking through the attractive <b>Brera</b> neighbourhood. Its streets are lined with lovely old buildings, boutiques & small shops. We had lunch at <b>Kaimano</b> on Via Fiori Chiari. Later, I bought a gorgeous hand-embroidered woven silk scarf. One can never have too many scarves, I think!
<b>Where we shopped</b>:
<b>Centenari - Stampe e Dipinti</b> (Galleria Vitt. Em. 92): Here, we bought small etchings of Piazza Duomo, Galleria Vittorio Emanuele, La Scala, and Santa Maria delle Grazie. We had them framed when we got home. They now hang as sweet reminders of our stay in Milan.
<b>Cappelleria Melegari</b> (Via Meravigili, 16): I was on a quest for a stylish rain hat - an oxymoron, I know. Well, I found it here. It had a cute pleating detail on the brim. DH husband bought a handsome cap to wear in the Fall & Winter. Both are totally practical for Vancouver weather!
<b>Where we ate</b>:
<b>Obika</b> is located on the 7th floor (rooftop) in La Rinascente across the street from the Duomo. We had a beautiful lunch: salad with burrata & peaches and a pizza with prosciutto & rocket.
<b>Alla Collina Pistoiese</b>: Beautiful interior. Efficient, white-jacketed wait staff. Delicious meals. Recommended in Fred Plotkin's <i>Italy for the Gourmet Traveler</i>.
www.allacollinapistoiese.it
<b>Hosteria Borromei</b> (Via Borromei, 4): We were seated in the lovely courtyard - very pleasant. The service was very good. Our dinners were superb!
We returned to Borromei for a second evening. When we arrived, we were greeted warmly by staff. We requested a table in the corner where we had a view across the room. We enjoyed another fine dinner.
We spent an afternoon walking through the attractive <b>Brera</b> neighbourhood. Its streets are lined with lovely old buildings, boutiques & small shops. We had lunch at <b>Kaimano</b> on Via Fiori Chiari. Later, I bought a gorgeous hand-embroidered woven silk scarf. One can never have too many scarves, I think!
<b>Where we shopped</b>:
<b>Centenari - Stampe e Dipinti</b> (Galleria Vitt. Em. 92): Here, we bought small etchings of Piazza Duomo, Galleria Vittorio Emanuele, La Scala, and Santa Maria delle Grazie. We had them framed when we got home. They now hang as sweet reminders of our stay in Milan.
<b>Cappelleria Melegari</b> (Via Meravigili, 16): I was on a quest for a stylish rain hat - an oxymoron, I know. Well, I found it here. It had a cute pleating detail on the brim. DH husband bought a handsome cap to wear in the Fall & Winter. Both are totally practical for Vancouver weather!
<b>Where we ate</b>:
<b>Obika</b> is located on the 7th floor (rooftop) in La Rinascente across the street from the Duomo. We had a beautiful lunch: salad with burrata & peaches and a pizza with prosciutto & rocket.
<b>Alla Collina Pistoiese</b>: Beautiful interior. Efficient, white-jacketed wait staff. Delicious meals. Recommended in Fred Plotkin's <i>Italy for the Gourmet Traveler</i>.
www.allacollinapistoiese.it
<b>Hosteria Borromei</b> (Via Borromei, 4): We were seated in the lovely courtyard - very pleasant. The service was very good. Our dinners were superb!
We returned to Borromei for a second evening. When we arrived, we were greeted warmly by staff. We requested a table in the corner where we had a view across the room. We enjoyed another fine dinner.
Jan 20th, 2017, 06:32 AM
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Thanks so much for your report, I've enjoyed reading it very much! Could you share a little more about what you saw on the La Scala tour? We are thinking about doing either this or the Ansaldo Workshops tour with our teenage daughter who hopes to be a theater major in college.
Jan 21st, 2017, 09:41 AM
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HappyTrvlr: Glad you enjoyed your stay in Salo. My husband & I seem to be partial to towns with promenades. Lovely for strolling along the lakeshore. Wondering what other towns on Lake Garda have them?
Jan 21st, 2017, 10:22 AM
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Hi mikedallas23:
<< <i>Could you share a little more about what you saw on the La Scala tour?</i> >>
We began our tour in the Foyer Toscanini where Francine, our guide spoke about the history of La Scala. Throughout the tour, she shared her extensive knowledge through interesting stories & amusing tidbits. She was also open to answering questions.
Next, we viewed the stage, the orchestra level & the Royal box from boxes along the side of the auditorium. Interesting to see the stage from various vantage points.
During our visit, the stage was being set up to rehearsal. It was fun to see how it all came together over the hour or so we were there!
On the ground level, we peeked into the orchestra pit. We had a close-up view of the stage and some of the modern mechanics. The view from the front of the auditorium to the back was stunning!
We went from below the stage up to the 'flying tower' where we could look down onto the stage from 7 floors up! These behind-the-scenes visits were fascinating!
We sat in the Royal Box - definitely the best seats in the house! In contrast, the cheap seats located way up high and towards the back wall are for listening only. From here, the views of the stage are obscured or nil.
If we weren't going to see a performance at La Scala, at least we had a wonderful opportunity to walk through this historic theatre and learn its secrets! And if we ever do go, we certainly will know where to sit!
There's some information about tours on La Scala's website.
http://www.teatroallascala.org/en/yo.../tourists.html
For more details, you can email Francine Garino at [email protected]. She will explain the various tours & prices for your preferred dates.
Hope this is helpful!
<< <i>Could you share a little more about what you saw on the La Scala tour?</i> >>
We began our tour in the Foyer Toscanini where Francine, our guide spoke about the history of La Scala. Throughout the tour, she shared her extensive knowledge through interesting stories & amusing tidbits. She was also open to answering questions.
Next, we viewed the stage, the orchestra level & the Royal box from boxes along the side of the auditorium. Interesting to see the stage from various vantage points.
During our visit, the stage was being set up to rehearsal. It was fun to see how it all came together over the hour or so we were there!
On the ground level, we peeked into the orchestra pit. We had a close-up view of the stage and some of the modern mechanics. The view from the front of the auditorium to the back was stunning!
We went from below the stage up to the 'flying tower' where we could look down onto the stage from 7 floors up! These behind-the-scenes visits were fascinating!
We sat in the Royal Box - definitely the best seats in the house! In contrast, the cheap seats located way up high and towards the back wall are for listening only. From here, the views of the stage are obscured or nil.
If we weren't going to see a performance at La Scala, at least we had a wonderful opportunity to walk through this historic theatre and learn its secrets! And if we ever do go, we certainly will know where to sit!
There's some information about tours on La Scala's website.
http://www.teatroallascala.org/en/yo.../tourists.html
For more details, you can email Francine Garino at [email protected]. She will explain the various tours & prices for your preferred dates.
Hope this is helpful!
