Go Back  Fodor's Travel Talk Forums > Destinations > Europe
Reload this Page >

Notes about Croatian Wine

Search

Notes about Croatian Wine

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
Old Oct 21st, 2006, 09:26 PM
  #1  
Original Poster
 
Join Date: Aug 2003
Posts: 715
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Notes about Croatian Wine

The purpose of this post is two-fold. I will provide everything I have learned about Croatian wine and where to purchase it. I hope everyone will join in a discussion to fill in the gaps that I didn't learn about, and to share whatever you have learned about anything and everything having to do with Croatian wine, including the best selections of it outside Croatia.

I had read many times in Fodors that Croatian wines are not very good. I do agree that Croatian table wines are not as good as table wines served in America. However, I also believe that Croatia's best wines are every bit as good as comparable high-end wines from elsewhere. I'd appreciate learning others' thoughts about that.

<b>Plavac Mali</b>
The most common dry red wine made in Croatia is made from a grape named Plavac. Very often the wine label will refer to Plavac Mali. &quot;Mali&quot; means &quot;small&quot; and I assume that refers to the size of the grape or vine. There are apparently three Plavac grapes. Plavac Mali seems to be the most popular of the three Plavac clones.

Prior to going to Croatia, I had often read that Zinfandel originated in Croatia. Depending upon who I talked to in Croatia, Plavac Mali is either the same as Zinfandel or a relative of Zinfandel. I learned after returning from vacation that the latter is true. It turns out that Plavac Mali is the offspring of two Croatian grapes: Crljenak and Dobricic.

DNA testing proved in 1998 that Plavac Mali is definitely not Zinfandel. The same testing proved in late 2001 that a particular Crljenak grape is Zinfandel. That grape is nearly extinct.

The earliest known origin of Crljenak is Croatia, so it can still be said until proven otherwise that Zinfandel originated in Croatia. However, it's very possible that Crljenak was taken to Croatia by the Greeks, though that has not yet been proved.

For details about all of that, please refer to the brief paper written by the person responsible for the DNA testing: http://www.zinfandel.org/about_zin/p...in_Croatia.pdf

From what I could tell (and I hope others will please confirm or correct my thinking), Plavac Mali is primarily grown in the Dalamatian islands and the Peljesac Peninsula. The best Plavac Mali might come from Hvar island and Dingac on the peninsula.

Wine maker Zlatan Plenkovic owns the Zlatan Otok winery, which is located in Sveta Nedjelja on Hvar. He bottles three Plavac Mali wines. His standard Plavac, which is stored in stainless steel for about a year, is simply named Zlatan Plavac . The upgrade from that is Zlatan Plavac Barrique, which I think is stored for two years. &quot;Barrique&quot; indicates that the wine is stored in oak barrels rather than stainless steel. His best wine is Zlatan Plavac Grand cru, which is also barreled in oak and remains in them I think for 3 years. The three wines typically sell in wine stores for about 100 kunas, 150 kunas, and 200 kunas, respectively. Naturally, they cost about twice that in restaurants. I drank all three and they were great.

I also enjoyed two other Plavac Malis. The Faros Barrique 2003 is made in Stari Grad (also on the island of Hvar.) Faros is the ancient name of Stari Grad. That was before the capital of the island was moved from Faros/Stari Grad to Hvar Town. That wine is comparable in my mind to the Zlatan Plavac Barrique, Plenkovic's mid-quality wine.

The other Plavac Mali I drank was absolutely terrific: Ivandolac 2004. The name of its winery is Badel. Ivandolac is a village on Hvar. Each bottle is labeled with the bottle number. I was told that's because only 20,000 bottles were made. That's less than 1700 cases. The place that I drank it was able to obtain only 6 cases.

I can strongly recommend any of the above wines.

From what I could tell, a highly respected winery in Dingac on the Peljesac Peninsula is Milicic. Their bottles are simply labeled, Dingac. Apparently red Dingac and red Ivandolac are Plavac Mali (just as red Burgundy is Pinot Noir.) I haven't drunk any, but I did bring three bottles home with me. One of them is a 2000 reserve, by far the most expensive wine I purchased. It better be the best!

<b>Malvazija</b>
The first Croatian white wine I tried was so good and refreshingly different that I reluctantly admit that I didn't try any other whites the rest of the trip. The grape is Malvazija. It has been too long since I've tried a Chenin Blanc, but if my memory is correct Malvazia is similar.

When grown in Croatia, it comes primarily from Istria. Originally from Greece, it's called Monemvasia there. In France it's Malvoise. In Spain it's Malvagia. It apparently became famous long ago in England where it was used to make a sweet, heavy wine called Malmsey. It might be found other places called Malvasia.

I enjoyed many Malvazija wines, but my favorite was made by Concordia. I wasn't able to find any of it in the stores, so I brought home two bottles of Malvazija made by Peter Poletti. Hmmm, I just noticed that I accidentally bought different vintages, 2004 and 2005. That could be interesting!

<b>Purchasing Wine in Croatia</b>
My single biggest complain about high-end restaurants in Croatia is their abysmally short wine lists. They generally only serve Croatian wines and only about a dozen of them.

It was not unusual that only half the wines on the menu were actually available. I think that's because I was there the last week in September and many restaurants close in October. It's understandable that they would not restock sold-out wines immediately prior to closing.

The one exception I found is Yaksa, a restaurant in Hvar Town. Yaksa is in the same restaurant alley where you'll find the Golden Shell. Though their wine list is not nearly as long as those in American restaurants, they have a lot bigger selection than any other restaurant I ate in and they offer wines from around the world. Their waiters are both very knowledgeable and helpful when it comes to ordering wine.

Yaksa is where I drank my favorite Malvazija by Concordia, and it was available by the glass. I kept looking for it and never found it elsewhere. The waiter told me that I could probably find it in Split at a big shopping center that has a big wine store. I remember driving by the shopping center on the expressway in Split and seeing the same brand name somewhere else in Croatia. But I didn't stop in.

Interestingly, next door to Yaksa is where my wife and I had our most interesting wine experience in Croatia -- at a wine bar. I don't think I ever noticed the name of the bar, but the only red wine they serve is from the island of Hvar. The owner thinks white wine should always be accompanied by food, that red wine is the only true &quot;drinking&quot; wine.

The owner is VERY enthusiastic. He's so enthusiastic about everything that I suggest taking some of his comments with a grain of salt. As an example, he swore that he would love to get his hands on some more Zlatan Plavac Grand Cru because the latest vintage was no longer available. He was shocked when I told him that I had just seen it in a tiny wine store (mentioned below) in Trogir. The next morning I bought some of it in a wine store (also mentioned below) just a five-minute walk from his wine bar.

Having said that, my wife and I spent a thoroughly enjoyable evening in his wine bar drinking four Plavac Mali wines accompanied by a large plate of Dalmatian ham, three kinds of cheese, olives and bread. And the atmosphere within the bar is very nice. He also provides sitting in the alley. I definitely recommend dropping in to ask his advice and to try a glass or two.

Plavac Mali and Malvazia were on every retaurant menu I saw, whether high-end restaurants or pizza places. Omitting either of them from a Croatian restaurant menu apparently would be like omitting Cabs and Chardonnays from an American menu.

I visited four wine stores in Croatia. The first was in Trogir, called Vinoteka Amfora. It's near the castle in one of the very small back alleys. It had the smallest selection of wine I've ever seen, but they had the Zlatan Plavac Grand cru and their staff is knowledgeable and helpful. Their website is www.enoteka.hr

You can find a very good wine store in Hvar Town. It's called Korm. It's in the &quot;new shopping center&quot; (a building with about six shops) that is located on the waterfront that is opposite the Arsenal. They have a great selection of Croatian wines, an ample selection of wines from elsewhere, and an extremely helpful staff.

By the way, when I walked to the store everything along the waterfront was normal. When I left the store and retraced my steps, the waterfront was flooded due to a high tide.

The third wine store I visited is near the cathedral in Dubrovnik's old town. It's next door to the Arsenal Wine Bar and might share the name. I didn't buy anything there because their prices seemed a little high.

I did buy some wine at the wine store at the other end of the Stradun. It's on the same side of the street as the Franciscan monastery. It's called Milicic. That's because it is owned by the Milicic winery. That's where I found the Dingac reserve 2000 by Milicic. For obvious reasons, you'll notice that the staff promotes Milicic wines, but they stock wine from all over Croatia.

Beware that store prices are higher in Dubrovnik's old town than in Trogir or Hvar Town. That tended to be true of restaurant prices also.

<b>Special Deals</b>
The 2003 Plavac Mali is supposed to be the best vintage in a long time. The only 2003 I saw was the Zlatan Plavac Grand cru. I assume that's because it only became available in 2006 and that the lesser quality Plavacs from 2003 are no longer available.

I found two really good prices worth mentioning. If you go to Makarska, try the restaurant at the Hotel Porin. The food is ordiary but you might stop in for a bottle of Zlatan Plavac. The name and price on the menu gave me the impression that it was the standard quality Zlatan Plavac, not the better quality Barrique or Grand cru. However, when the waiter brought the bottle, it was the Grand cru 2001. The price was the same as the Grand cru in the wine stores, half the price of anything I saw at a restaurant. I wonder if the explanation is that every other Zlatan Plavac Grand cru was from the well known 2003 vintage. Maybe the 2003 is more expensive than the less respected 2001, but I can't imagine that it is twice as expensive. So, if you get to Makarska, consider going to the Hotel Porin and ask if they'll serve that Grand cru for the price on the menu. And please report back to us!

That's everything I know about Croatian wine. Please pipe in and add to the information. I look forward to hearing from you!

The other particularly good deal is at the Mea Culpa pizza restaurant in one of the old town alleys in Dubrovnik. The prices by the glass are proportionally the same as by the bottle. I've never seen that at any restaurant. There really is no reason to order a bottle.
MikeBuckley is offline  
Old Oct 22nd, 2006, 03:15 AM
  #2  
 
Join Date: Jul 2005
Posts: 122
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Istrian Teran is also very good.

You can purchase a small selection of Croatian wines in USA here:

http://www.bluedanubewine.com/croatia.html
teddybear is offline  
Old Oct 22nd, 2006, 09:37 AM
  #3  
Original Poster
 
Join Date: Aug 2003
Posts: 715
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Thanks, teddybear! That's the best selection of Croatian wines I've seen so far being offered in America. Too bad that I live on the east coast. Shipping from California will be expensive.
MikeBuckley is offline  
Old Oct 24th, 2006, 03:53 AM
  #4  
 
Join Date: Feb 2005
Posts: 75
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
I can second Mike's comments about Croatian table wines. My husband and I only drink a glass or two with dinner and the wines available by the glass were often undrinkable. I actually switched to beer by the time we'd gotten to Hvar but when we found Yaksa, I was pretty sure I'd get a decent glass of wine - they have a great selection by the glass. With lunch I wanted a white and the waiter recommended Sv. Klement (from the island of the same name). I really enjoyed it - light and fruity without being too light on flavour. It was so good that when we went back for dinner I got the Sv. Klement red which was even better.

We found a little wine shop in the market that carried Sv. Klement and bought three bottles to take home. The owner of this wine shop told his son own's the wine bar you went to Mike!

Jana
janaturner is offline  
Old Oct 24th, 2006, 04:16 AM
  #5  
 
Join Date: Jan 2003
Posts: 871
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Mike -
I believe the wine bar next to Yaksa your speaking of is named Prust. I am aquaintances with the family. The father owns a little gourmet shop in the farmers market - the son just opened the wine bar.

I had a couple good table wines - both white and red. I had really excellent Grasavina (sp?) - from northern central Croatia, the Slavonia region.
Carta_Pisana is offline  
Old Oct 24th, 2006, 03:00 PM
  #6  
Original Poster
 
Join Date: Aug 2003
Posts: 715
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Carta,

Please take a look at this picture: http://www.pbase.com/mike_buckley/image/68699011

Is there any chance that either of those people are in the family you know who own the gourmet shop in the farmer's market and whose son owns the wine bar in Hvar town? The reason I ask is that I took the picture of them in front of one of the small shops in the market and that there are a number of wine bottles in the background. Wouldn't that be a coincidence?
MikeBuckley is offline  
Old Oct 24th, 2006, 03:10 PM
  #7  
Original Poster
 
Join Date: Aug 2003
Posts: 715
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Now I remember the owner of the wine bar in Hvar Town telling me that the name is Three Proscuittos (sp?). More specifically, I wrote down the Croatian name, Tri Prisuta Kod. Indeed, he has three hams hanging near the cash register. He lovingly says the name also alludes to his three children, and proudly shows a picture of them.

I reported earlier that the three qualities of Zlatan Plencovic's Plavac cost 100 kuna, 150 kuna and 200 kuna, respectively. I found some notes indicating that I saw them selling at the store, Korm, in Hvar Town for 80 kuna, 114 kuna and 172 kuna. The Ivan Dolac Plavac that I like so much was 160 kuna.

I also mentioned that prices in Dubrovnik's old town are higher than Trogire and Hvar Town. I forgot to mention that they were as much as 50% higher. So, if you find a wine you really like, buy it before you get to Dubrovnik if you don't mind hauling it around.

I just learned today that I might have a connection with some people going to Croatia in a couple months who might be willing to bring me some wine. Yowsa!
MikeBuckley is offline  
Old Oct 24th, 2006, 06:11 PM
  #8  
 
Join Date: Jan 2003
Posts: 871
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Mike - the man's name eludes me right now - it's written down somewhere. I have to mail him an Ella Fitzgerald album I played for him on my nano pod - which he loved. He has great food items at his little shop next to the farmer's market. He has another son who rented motorbikes - didn't see him this year though. I'm so happy for them - they were putting the finishing touches on the wine bar about a year ago. When I mentioned I wanted to pick grapes this year - he told me to come back the next mornning and he would take me to a wine producer. Unfortunately I was leaving for Podgora the next morning.
Carta_Pisana is offline  
Old Oct 24th, 2006, 06:12 PM
  #9  
 
Join Date: Jan 2003
Posts: 871
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Mike - just took a look at your other pictures - some wonderful images and great color. Thanks for sharing.
Carta_Pisana is offline  
Old Jun 19th, 2007, 07:52 AM
  #10  
 
Join Date: Jun 2007
Posts: 1
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
The bar owner's name is Vidan. We were looking for a place to cool off and get a nice glass of white during the hot afternoon after ascending the stairs to the castle and Vidan was nice enough to serve us even though he wasn't open. We sampled some really good wild boar salami and cheese from Pag.

We split a bottle of the Gran Cru with my brother. Vidan charged us 500 Kuna for the bottle, which was more than Yaksa does, which was surprising to me. He also complained to us about not being able to get any more Gran Cru. Our hotel restaurant in Zavala charged us 190 Kuna for the Barrique, which I actually enjoyed more than the Gran cru.

The best bottle of wine we had in our 7 days in Croatia was the Milicic Dingac, which we enjoyed at the excellent rooftop terrace of Defne at the Pucic palace in Dubrovnik. Would love to get a few bottles back in the states.

craigb is offline  
Old Jun 19th, 2007, 11:07 AM
  #11  
 
Join Date: Apr 2005
Posts: 3,087
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Thanks for topping this craig. I wasn't planning a trip to Croatia last year and missed Mike's OP. However it is now duly noted, and will be printed out for future reference...

I will be driving myself - (NB, Croatia has ZERO tolerance for drink/drive - so no glass of wine with lunch) - but shall look forward to trying some of these wines in the evenings.

At the very least I shall buy some to bring home.
julia_t is offline  
Old Sep 2nd, 2007, 06:24 AM
  #12  
Original Poster
 
Join Date: Aug 2003
Posts: 715
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Since the last time I posted here, I have found sources in the U.S. for Croatian wine.

K&amp;L Wine Merchants has three California locations -- Redwood City, San Francisco and Hollywood.
http://www.klwines.com/

Blue Danube Wine imports about 15 Croatian wines, including Plavac Mali from Dingac and Zlatan Otok. Their website provides stores and restaurants that buy from them.
http://www.bluedanubewine.com/wines/

If you are interested in buying wine made by Mike Grgich, perhaps Croatia's most famous vintner, look no farther than to his Grgich Hills winery in Napa Valley. He too was instrumental in helping scientists discover that the earliest known Zinfandel comes from a vineyard near Split. Grgich's fame comes from having won first place in the 1976 Paris blind tasting of Chardonnay. Because it was a competition between America and Burgundy Chardonnays, it put California on the international map.
http://www.grgich.com/index.html

Grgich recently started a vineyard on the Peljesac Peninsula. His wine is imported to the U.S. by Monsieur Touton Selection at 129 W. 27th Street in New York. (Sorry, no website and no information about wine stores that buy from the importer.)

Vinum USA imports Croatian wines and their website provides retailers that stock their wine.
http://www.vinumusa.com/croatian_wines.htm

You can purchase a book and a CD about Croatian wine. They were produced by one of the people who were instrumental in finding the exact match of Zinfandel in Croatia. The CD has maps showing the way to Croatian wineries.
http://www.crozinfandel.com/multimedia_cd.htm

Hope this helps!
MikeBuckley is offline  
Old Sep 2nd, 2007, 04:50 PM
  #13  
Original Poster
 
Join Date: Aug 2003
Posts: 715
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
All of us have forgotten to remind people on their first trip to Croatia perhaps the most important issue about drinking wine in Croatian restaurants: if you don't finish the bottle at the table, you can take it with you. At the wine bar in Hvar Town, a lady liked her glass of Plavac Mali so much that she was unwilling to part with it. Her solution was to take the glass of wine home and return the empty glass the next day.
MikeBuckley is offline  
Old Sep 2nd, 2007, 05:04 PM
  #14  
Original Poster
 
Join Date: Aug 2003
Posts: 715
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
I just stumbled on a website of a wine bar just 5 minutes from the ferry port in Split that I sure wish I had known about when I was there. Wine enthusiasts probably shouldn't miss it. Check out the website:
http://www.vinoteka.hr/eng_terra.asp
MikeBuckley is offline  
Old Feb 25th, 2008, 12:50 PM
  #15  
 
Join Date: Mar 2003
Posts: 10,288
Likes: 0
Received 21 Likes on 2 Posts
Thanks Mike,

In June, we will have three days in Dubrovnik, two in Trogir, one in Plitvice and three in Rovinj. The four of us enjoy wine, so this was very interesting. If I don't kill too many brain cells, I'll give you a &quot;Croatian Wine&quot; update upon our return.

maitaitom is online now  
Old Feb 26th, 2008, 07:47 AM
  #16  
 
Join Date: Apr 2004
Posts: 551
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Maitaitom-Look forward to your report! We will travel to many of same areas in September of this year. Does anyone know of wine festivals at that time? Shirley
LuvToRoam is offline  
Old Feb 26th, 2008, 09:46 AM
  #17  
 
Join Date: Mar 2003
Posts: 10,288
Likes: 0
Received 21 Likes on 2 Posts
&quot;We will travel to many of same areas in September of this year&quot;

I might still be passed out in the Buza Bar in Dubrovnik.

maitaitom is online now  
Related Topics
Thread
Original Poster
Forum
Replies
Last Post
Giorgia_G
Europe
11
Oct 27th, 2013 08:06 AM
glin930
United States
5
May 10th, 2006 02:25 PM
ebgibbs
United States
9
Feb 14th, 2006 04:04 AM
jrchapma
Europe
9
Sep 29th, 2005 10:56 AM

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are On



Contact Us - Manage Preferences - Archive - Advertising - Cookie Policy - Privacy Statement - Do Not Sell or Share My Personal Information -