Northern Italy Trip Report!! (Venice, Verona, Lake Como, Cinque Terre, Milan)
Mar 24th, 2005, 07:27 PM
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Daria, just read your terrific trip report. My family and I are spending 3 nites in London and thinking aboutflying into venice for 2 nites and then 4 nites in the Lake region. Could you possibly reccomend what areas you think would be best to visit (e.g. como, vennazza?). I am not familiar with the area and could use some suggestions. Thanks.
Mar 25th, 2005, 11:42 AM
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Daria -
Thanks for the great trip report. We are planning a trip to Italy in June 2005 and plan to visit Bellagio and Vernazza.
We actually have reservations at Gianni Franzi in Vernazza. I see that you were not pleased with their rooms. Should we be concerned? We are fine with simple accomodations, but prefer that they be clean and have private baths. Any additional insight you can provide would be appreciated. Thanks!
Thanks for the great trip report. We are planning a trip to Italy in June 2005 and plan to visit Bellagio and Vernazza.
We actually have reservations at Gianni Franzi in Vernazza. I see that you were not pleased with their rooms. Should we be concerned? We are fine with simple accomodations, but prefer that they be clean and have private baths. Any additional insight you can provide would be appreciated. Thanks!
Mar 26th, 2005, 07:14 AM
#43
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Hi Daria,
I just popped onto Fodor's and was thrilled to see your wondeful report is having a revival.
I am going back this summer with just my daughter and a friend and her daughter. On your recommendation we are making Verona (hotel Torcolo) our first stop after flying into Milan. Then we are off for 4 nights in Venice, 2 weeks in Siena including language school for me. We fly out of Rome where we'll spend the last 3 nights.
Don't be jealous--you'll be back too; remember I'm much older.
Keep in touch,
jan
I just popped onto Fodor's and was thrilled to see your wondeful report is having a revival.
I am going back this summer with just my daughter and a friend and her daughter. On your recommendation we are making Verona (hotel Torcolo) our first stop after flying into Milan. Then we are off for 4 nights in Venice, 2 weeks in Siena including language school for me. We fly out of Rome where we'll spend the last 3 nights.
Don't be jealous--you'll be back too; remember I'm much older.
Keep in touch,
jan
Mar 28th, 2005, 12:41 PM
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Italiaphile, I’m sorry it took me a while to respond to you. Yes, we liked both Varenna and Menaggio. I know there are plenty of restaurants in Varenna, but I am not sure about Menaggio. Menaggio seems a bit less touristy. We saw a lot of locals out and about there. You can get to either by boat from Bellagio pretty quickly and could even do both in one day, if you start early enough. They really are not far apart.
8, while it is true you can take a boat from Como to Bellagio, it is much further than it is from Varenna. Is the hydrofoil the high speed boat? The high speed boat is also not as pleasant as the others. My sense is that it will be faster to train all the way to Varenna and then boat from there, but either way really will work.
Frankpkeller, it really depends on what you like. Como has much more of a feeling of a City, while Varenna is more of a small, quaint and quiet town. If you want to go to the lake to relax and take in the natural beauty, I think one of the smaller towns like Varenna or Bellagio would be nice. They are much more beautiful. On the other hand, if you want to be in a larger city with proximity to the lake, Como may be more what you are looking for.
Neetse, I am not sure what else to say but, as to cleanliness, I thought the floors and walls were a little dirty and the service left a bit to be desired. On the other hand, the prices were really great. So, just don’t expect much customer service or a 5 star accommodation. They do have rooms with private baths (we had one), but you should make sure that is what you have reserved because I know some of them don’t.
Anyone can feel free to email me directly if you have specific questions. [email protected]
Hey Jan, it is great to hear from you! I am jealous! We aren’t going to Europe this year and I don’t know when we’ll be back to Italy. We feel obliged to branch out a bit. I’m thinking of perhaps Spain and France, but that wouldn’t be until 2006 . . . .
8, while it is true you can take a boat from Como to Bellagio, it is much further than it is from Varenna. Is the hydrofoil the high speed boat? The high speed boat is also not as pleasant as the others. My sense is that it will be faster to train all the way to Varenna and then boat from there, but either way really will work.
Frankpkeller, it really depends on what you like. Como has much more of a feeling of a City, while Varenna is more of a small, quaint and quiet town. If you want to go to the lake to relax and take in the natural beauty, I think one of the smaller towns like Varenna or Bellagio would be nice. They are much more beautiful. On the other hand, if you want to be in a larger city with proximity to the lake, Como may be more what you are looking for.
Neetse, I am not sure what else to say but, as to cleanliness, I thought the floors and walls were a little dirty and the service left a bit to be desired. On the other hand, the prices were really great. So, just don’t expect much customer service or a 5 star accommodation. They do have rooms with private baths (we had one), but you should make sure that is what you have reserved because I know some of them don’t.
Anyone can feel free to email me directly if you have specific questions. [email protected]
Hey Jan, it is great to hear from you! I am jealous! We aren’t going to Europe this year and I don’t know when we’ll be back to Italy. We feel obliged to branch out a bit. I’m thinking of perhaps Spain and France, but that wouldn’t be until 2006 . . . .
Mar 29th, 2005, 02:54 AM
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Daria- thanks for the reply. We are a party of eight and are coming from venice (three nites) to Lake como (three nites) and are staying at the Grand Terremezzo (spell?) I figure it would be easier for us to use that as a base camp and take the ferry to Bellagio, boat tour etc. Would we be better off staying in bellagio? We would like to see as much of the lake region (remembering that my mother-in-law is 77 yrs old)without killing ourselves. We are starting out with three nites in london, three nites in venice, and three nites in lake como. I have already arranged for the transfers from venice to lake como and back (stopping at verona on the way out and milan on the way back) this leaves our three nites in lake como free to explore and maybe (God forbid)relax. Any advise would be appreciated. Many thanks, Frank
Mar 29th, 2005, 05:33 AM
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Message: Daria: Loved your trip report! It sounds like you were in Vernazza at Gianni Franzi the exact same time I was. I arrived in Milan on the morning of the 23rd and took the train to Vernazza, arriving around 4P. I loved my room at Gianna Franzi -- the small single on the top floor, with the balcony. I knew (from the year before, and from RS book) that their "reception" isn't the friendliest, so I didn't take it personally. We might have passed each other on the hikes, because I went to Riomaggiore and back one day, and to Monterosso another day. I thought that was the tougher trail, maybe because it was hotter that day. I took the boat back from Monterosso. That worked out great. Did you have pastries at Il Pirata? I, too, was amazed at the tourist crush when I arrived, but it is wonderful the way the town empties out in the evening, and how nice the early mornings are along the waterfront. ...ooh the more I think about it, the more I want to go back! 
(if this reply is posted twice, please forgive me -- I may have screwed up with the buttons.)
(if this reply is posted twice, please forgive me -- I may have screwed up with the buttons.)
Apr 4th, 2005, 12:30 PM
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Daria:
Your trip report is so helpful as I am new to this site. One thing I would add for all going to Cinque Terre. A couple of years ago I did all of it but stayed one town north in Levanto. Same train route and access to all the other towns. It was much quieter and felt more like a locals town with a nice beach to walk. I stayed in a Rick Steeve's suggested hotel, which I don't remember the name of. The best part was dining every night at Trattoria Cavour in Cavour Square. the food was as good as or better than Gamberro Rosso in Vernazza.
Your trip report is so helpful as I am new to this site. One thing I would add for all going to Cinque Terre. A couple of years ago I did all of it but stayed one town north in Levanto. Same train route and access to all the other towns. It was much quieter and felt more like a locals town with a nice beach to walk. I stayed in a Rick Steeve's suggested hotel, which I don't remember the name of. The best part was dining every night at Trattoria Cavour in Cavour Square. the food was as good as or better than Gamberro Rosso in Vernazza.
Apr 4th, 2005, 01:31 PM
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Frank, I think staying in Tremezzo would work just fine for you all. I can’t really say whether it would be easier to stay there or Bellagio. Villa Carlotta (a very nice villa with some pretty gardens) is in Tremezzo, so the ferries stop there often. Bellagio is also a huge attraction, so there ferries stop there quite often too. So, either way, you will be able to explore the lake.
From what I saw, Bellagio seemed to have more services in terms of restaurants and shops, but I don’t want to discourage you from staying in Tremezzo. One thing I might worry about in Bellagio with your mom is that there are a lot of stairs and so I am not sure how easy it would be for her to get around. I don’t remember that being an issue in Tremezzo, but you may want to post a question on this site asking about that. Also, there are many posts on this site discussing the various towns on the lake and that is how I made my decision.
Jill, we had lunch at Osteria a Cantina de Mananan. It is hard for me to remember exactly what we paid, but I believe appetizers were in the $5 range and entrees were in the $10 - $15 range. Whatever we paid, it was worth it!
From what I saw, Bellagio seemed to have more services in terms of restaurants and shops, but I don’t want to discourage you from staying in Tremezzo. One thing I might worry about in Bellagio with your mom is that there are a lot of stairs and so I am not sure how easy it would be for her to get around. I don’t remember that being an issue in Tremezzo, but you may want to post a question on this site asking about that. Also, there are many posts on this site discussing the various towns on the lake and that is how I made my decision.
Jill, we had lunch at Osteria a Cantina de Mananan. It is hard for me to remember exactly what we paid, but I believe appetizers were in the $5 range and entrees were in the $10 - $15 range. Whatever we paid, it was worth it!
Apr 4th, 2005, 06:40 PM
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daria- thanks for the info the hotel we are staying at actually is in lake como (the grand tremezzo hotel) overlooking the lake I am in the process of booking a mini bus with a guide for the day to take us up towards st moritz i figure we can take the ferry to bellagio for lunch also i am considering a boat tour (figuring it is an easier way to get around) do you have any experience with st moritz or laguna?
Apr 13th, 2005, 11:56 AM
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Daria,
I have enjoyed your messages -- helping so many of us heading over to the Lake area. I hope you don't mind a few more questions? My husband and I will be spending three nights (Wed., May 18-Sat May 21) in Varenna on Como at the Hotel Milano. We will be driving there from STresa on Maggiore where we will have spent three days. It sounds like once we get to Varenna, it is most convenient to take the ferrys/boats to the other towns. Is that your recommendation? Also, with 3-4 days in Varenna -- would seeing Como and Bellagio and Varenna be enough? Or, should we look into some other towns? We love to enjoy a mix of lingering, shopping, touring, relaxing, etc. Thank you so much! I've already noted some of your restaurant recommendations!
I have enjoyed your messages -- helping so many of us heading over to the Lake area. I hope you don't mind a few more questions? My husband and I will be spending three nights (Wed., May 18-Sat May 21) in Varenna on Como at the Hotel Milano. We will be driving there from STresa on Maggiore where we will have spent three days. It sounds like once we get to Varenna, it is most convenient to take the ferrys/boats to the other towns. Is that your recommendation? Also, with 3-4 days in Varenna -- would seeing Como and Bellagio and Varenna be enough? Or, should we look into some other towns? We love to enjoy a mix of lingering, shopping, touring, relaxing, etc. Thank you so much! I've already noted some of your restaurant recommendations!
Apr 15th, 2005, 01:43 PM
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Glad to help, to the best of my ability. I have no experience with St Moritz or Laguna though.
As to driving Lake Como vs. ferries, we did not have a car, so I can't personally comment on the driving. However, I decided not to rent a car based on posts I read on this site about a lot of traffic. Also, the places I wanted to visit (Varenna, Bellagio, Mennagio, Como) were all easily accessible by ferry, but would involve a lot of congested driving to get to by car. It is much easier to get to Bellagio, for example, from Varenna via ferry. The ferry ride is only 10 or 15 minutes and is relaxing. However, if you were to go by car, it would take hours because it is located on a totally different shore of the lake. The same is true for traveling to Menaggio from Varenna.
CGKNola, you might also want to visit Menaggio and Villa Carlotta (in Menaggio) and/or Villa Balbionello. This was my favorite villa on the lake. Be aware, you have to book in advance. With the time you have, I don't think you need to plan to do much more. You will want to have time to simply sit and gaze at the lake.
kist79, I reserved our room in Vernazza several months in advance, but that is just my personality. I've heard you can get a room in Vernazza without reserving in advance, but that just makes me too nervous. You may want to ask others here if that is still the case.
As to driving Lake Como vs. ferries, we did not have a car, so I can't personally comment on the driving. However, I decided not to rent a car based on posts I read on this site about a lot of traffic. Also, the places I wanted to visit (Varenna, Bellagio, Mennagio, Como) were all easily accessible by ferry, but would involve a lot of congested driving to get to by car. It is much easier to get to Bellagio, for example, from Varenna via ferry. The ferry ride is only 10 or 15 minutes and is relaxing. However, if you were to go by car, it would take hours because it is located on a totally different shore of the lake. The same is true for traveling to Menaggio from Varenna.
CGKNola, you might also want to visit Menaggio and Villa Carlotta (in Menaggio) and/or Villa Balbionello. This was my favorite villa on the lake. Be aware, you have to book in advance. With the time you have, I don't think you need to plan to do much more. You will want to have time to simply sit and gaze at the lake.
kist79, I reserved our room in Vernazza several months in advance, but that is just my personality. I've heard you can get a room in Vernazza without reserving in advance, but that just makes me too nervous. You may want to ask others here if that is still the case.
Jun 9th, 2005, 09:00 AM
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Daria,
Thanks for all your great info! I hope you didn't already answer this question but did you have to make reservations at the restaurants in the towns in Cinque Terre? We'll be there in early July when it will probably pretty crowded.
Thanks!
Thanks for all your great info! I hope you didn't already answer this question but did you have to make reservations at the restaurants in the towns in Cinque Terre? We'll be there in early July when it will probably pretty crowded.
Thanks!
Jun 9th, 2005, 05:10 PM
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Daria's report, written a year ago, is still spot-on and worth reading. We made much the same trip (sans Milan) the last two weeks of May (this year) and enjoyed it as much as she did.
Was in Corniglia for 3 nights. We made reservations at Osteria a Cantina de Mananan a night in advance and were glad we did, since it is tiny (fits maybe 20 people) and was full. Wonderful food, highly recommended. We ate at restaurants in Vernazza and Portovenere for lunch, no reservations needed. Picnicked on the roof of our inn (Cecio) in Cornigia for dinner one night -- definitely no reservations needed! A highlight of the trip.
Warning to those visiting the Cinque Terre this summer and expecting to get a room in Vernazza without a reservation--don't count on it. Everything was full there the days we visited in late May. The other CT towns had rooms, though, and were lots of fun. Spent 3 wonderful late afternoons sitting in the tiny square in Corniglia, taking in the local lifebeat and talking to tourists from around the world (but no other Americans!). Priceless.
Was in Corniglia for 3 nights. We made reservations at Osteria a Cantina de Mananan a night in advance and were glad we did, since it is tiny (fits maybe 20 people) and was full. Wonderful food, highly recommended. We ate at restaurants in Vernazza and Portovenere for lunch, no reservations needed. Picnicked on the roof of our inn (Cecio) in Cornigia for dinner one night -- definitely no reservations needed! A highlight of the trip.
Warning to those visiting the Cinque Terre this summer and expecting to get a room in Vernazza without a reservation--don't count on it. Everything was full there the days we visited in late May. The other CT towns had rooms, though, and were lots of fun. Spent 3 wonderful late afternoons sitting in the tiny square in Corniglia, taking in the local lifebeat and talking to tourists from around the world (but no other Americans!). Priceless.
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