cila02

After several years we are finally getting back to Italy, this time flying in to Venice on 9/7 and leaving from Milan 10/1. Nice a leisurely this time, instead of dashing madly around. The older we get, the smarter (finally). We will have a car until we get to Milan. We have planned Padova, Verona, then Lake Garda for the first 10 days. We will then drive for a special weekend at Antica Corte Pallavicina (reservations locked in), then head to Modena for 3 days before heading west again, thru Bergamo to Lake Como for 5 nights. We have built in 2 days flex, before arriving in Milan late Sunday, 9/27, allowing 3 days there to cover the city and Expo.

My question is regarding the two lakes. We are thinking to stay in either Bardolino or Garda on Lake Garda, and in Varenna on Lake Como.

We will be taking the ferry to see Lake Garda (Sirmione, Riva, etc.), and we plan one day trip to Trento. Comments on this? Also, trying to figure out if we should stay right in town or somewhere slightly away for more of a panoramic perspective. We don't know how easy it is to get into town, if there is parking or easy walking etc. My husband has some difficulty walking distances and up and down hills.

As for Lake Como, Varenna seems to be a good base, as we will be taking one day for a scenic train ride into Switzerland, but again, should we be staying close to the water or is that not an issue.

All comments welcome.

annhig

hi cila,

We spent a week in Garda a few years ago and liked it a lot; as a base for touring the rest of the lake it's excellent as a lot of the boats including the fast ones stop there, so if that is important to you, you might like to check the timetables for both Garda and Bardolino.

Garda is pretty flat and there is a very nice prom and shopping area next to the lakeside and boat jetty. We didn't have a car at all but from memory the main road passes quite near to there and I should think that there are a number of hotels with parking - have you looked at TA or booking.com?

if you stayed close to the lake you would be able to leave your car in the car park apart from your day trip to Trento as the boats would get you around.

hope that helps - it sounds like a nice leisurely trip.

cosmikcowboy

In the village of Varenna proper, most all the hotels are somewhat near the water... you might want to consider Albergo Milano, a very small, quaint & charming boutique hotel / B & B in Varenna... it's on the north side of town about 7 -10 minute walk down Varenna's famous waterfront Paserrella from the ferry dock and maybe 15 minute walk to the train station... but it's still somewhat central to the village... it's waterfront so the views from their rooms & dining terrace is outstanding... but you should know much of Varenna is perched on a hillside so there are some steps to deal with... If walking is a more serious problem, Hotel Olivedo and Villa Torretta are probably the northern most properties closest to the ferry dock and train station, and situated on a little more level ground... but then of course, it's a farther walk down into the village... have fun!!!

only kindness matters...

sandralist

Since you'll have a car, I would consider staying in flatter Menaggio rather than sloping Varenna. Driving in and parking is easier too.

For Lago di Garda, you might want to stay further north than Bardolino to accomplish your itinerary. Besides, the further you go north, the better the scenery. See Sirmione on your way to Lago di Como (preferably that travel day isn't a weekend.) However, I don't know which towns further north would be as comfortably flat as Bardolino is, but you can usually tell by looking at pictures.

If you have 2 days flex, consider visiting Mantova on your way north from Modena. Around Antica Corte Pallavicina, there are lots of small towns and castles of interest -- Busseto, Fontanellato, Soragna, Castell'Arquato and of course Cremona. I have also heard that their fish menu is outstanding (not what one usually goes there for, but I would be tempted).

mels

Hotels in Varenna were getting booked early, May. You should decide soon.. We booked Hotel Du Lac in September, in Belligio and I could only get 2 nights.

cila02

annig - thanks, that's great info.

sandralist - Mantova is in the plan for sure. Why did you comment on travel on the weekend? The only weekend we are driving is at the end, from Varenna to Milan, on a Sunday. Should we plan on heavy traffic?

isabel

I'm in Lake Garda right now. It's gorgeous (and very hot at the moment). I'm staying in Malcesine and am very happy with the choice.

South of Malcesine the scenery is not spectacular, it's just a lake with hills around. Malcesine, Limone and Riva are all gorgeous and surrounded by true mountains. Much more atmospheric.

Malcesine has a few hilly streets but not too bad. There looks to be tons of parking garages around (I don't have a car at the moment). You can take a cable car up to Mount Baldo for spectacular mountain scenery (unless it's cloudy/hazy, but then it's still fun - there is a relatively flat path you can take, about a mile and half round trip to a look out point).

Limone was less interesting/more touristy. There is a much longer lake side promenade than in Malcesine, but then the rest of the town was much more hilly.

I really like Riva, nice promenade, larger town than the other two.

I went to Sirmione on a previous trip (as a day trip from Verona). Absolutely gorgeous little town and great castle but horribly crowded.

The problem with Lake Garda is that it is long and the ferries - even the 'fast' ones take three hours from one end to the other. But with a car you could drive, it really looks like driving and parking are not that bad. I would stay in one of the three northern towns, use the ferry to get between them, and then drive to which ever southern lake towns you want to see.

sandralist

Hi Cila02,

If the Sunday you are travelng from Lago di Como to Milan is gorgeous weather (and we hope you get nothing but gorgeous weather), then you should be prepared to encounter traffic heading back into Milan between 4 and 8pm (or later).

As you probably alread know, if you are planning to get rid of your car in Milan and it's a Sunday, your best option is to drop it off at Linate airport, and take a bus or taxi into the city (taxis from Linate are not staggeringly expensive, and unless your Milan hotel is right near the train station, then a taxi is worth it rather than the bus). However, if your hotel is near the Expo, you might want to drop off the car in Malpensa.

I just noticed you appear to be including Bergamo. It is quite a steep town. There is a funicular to take you the upper area of the hilltown, but even there I'm not sure you can avoid verticality, walking around. I don't wish to discourage you, but don't want you to be surprise either.

cila02

isabel (I love that name)
I will now look at Malcesine as a base. We planned to go there to Mt. Baldo, but your info about the ferries is making me rethink the plan. That is a major consideration. We did not plan to drive to the different towns, thought the ferries would be relaxing and part of the fun, but I'll take that first hand eye witness info I was about to book Hotel Benaco in Garda. Where are you staying?

sandralist
We have been caught in Sunday traffic in Italy and I know it can be brutal. With that in mind, we can plan ahead. We have not yet selected a hotel in Milan. I was looking for one towards the central station, thinking of getting to Malpensa for a 10 a.m. flight. Anyone have thoughts on that?

As for Bergamo, and hills in general, we sometimes can only walk a little bit around towns like this, but that's ok, he does the best he can, and most often that involves a stop for gelato for fortification.

sandralist

I overnight at the Berna near the train station when I need to catch a morning flight out of Malpensa. It's a 5 minute walk from where the bus from Linate would drop you off, or the bus to Malpensa picks up passengers. I have also stayed at the Madison, which is on the other side of the train station from where the Linate bus lets you off, and that hotel is quite convenient to the side of the station platform from which the train to Malpensa departs. I stayed at the Madison a few years ago, though, so check recent reviews (and for the Berna too, to see if it is what you want).

Bergamo has special pastries to go with that gelato.

http://www.davittorio.com/en/cavour-...sticceria.html

isabel

I'm staying at Hotel Erika in Malcesnie, she has parking and is right near the cable car station. About five minute "gentle" hill down to the port.

I was just in Bergamo before I came here. The 20 min walk to the funicular is totally flat. Once in the upper town the Main Street to the main square is pretty flat but there are some hilly streets . Even if you just wanted to go see the main piazza it would be worth it.

In Milan I have stayed at (and am returning to tomorrow ) hotel Berna. That breakfast alone is worth the trip to Italy. I'll let you know how the expo is, I'm going in a couple of days.

Iahawk

We stayed in Riva and had a great time. If you have a car, take a short drive and then hike to the water falls; head on up to Isera and spend some time at the wine cooperative (and say hi to Lucca Bini for us!!) Lake Misurina will blow you away...so picturesque.

cila02

isabel -
I just booked Hotel Erika by contacting her directly. Online sites showed no availability, but she did have one deluxe room! Thanks so much for the info, Erika seems delightful.

Hotel Berna seems to be booked, so I have to keep looking.

Seems like you have just taken our trip, at least this part of it. Enjoy Expo, and safe home.

lahawk
We definitely will be going to Riva, and we will have a car. Have to look into your suggestions. Thank you.

cila02

Does anyone have any thoughts about Trento? Is it worth taking a day away from the lake to go there?

sandralist

Trento has a beautiful centro, with a marvelous fountain, and a stunning castle (be sure to see the Eagles' tower. I don't know if it is worth taking a day away from the lake to get there because I don't know what you plan to do on the lake. But you can see the historic center and castle in Trento in half a day. Go up for lunch in the center (Lo Scrigno del Duomo has a bistro), then visit the castle after lunch.

scrb11

I liked Menaggio more than Varenna, of the two towns I've stayed in.

Parking and traffic are brutal though.

But drove up to the terminus for the Pigra cable car to see the views up there and then visited Balcone d'Italia. Then drive down to the coast of Lake Lugano, towards Porlezza.

Of course you can continue on to Lugano as well.

Then NW of Menaggio, as you drive up or back down, you get these magnificent views across the lake of the Bellagio promontory, set against distant mountains.

So if you can get good parking, you can get more out of having a car in Menaggio than Varenna, it seems.

The train in Varenna was useful for day trip to Bergamo and returning to Milan.

The area around the Milan train station is not that appealing and there was a huge crowd for the bus to Malpensa at 5 AM. Maybe there's a place much closer to the airport worth staying in for the night before?

sandralist

I would not give up a final night in Milan because one has to face the typical atmosphere of an urban train station at 5am. There is nothing unsafe about it, and quite frankly, it is really not that disturbing if you have ever been a commuter. Your bleary-eyed companions on the airport bus or train are no less dissheveled looking at 5am, and that will be true if you stay at a sterile airport hotel near at Malpensa at eat the typically lousy food there for dinner.

cila02

Thanks to all. While I am hunting for the best spot in Milan, all else is in place. and "mels" was correct, finding a hotel in Varenna was a challenge, so we decided on a rental through Home Away. This is a very popular town.

Buon viaggio a tutti!

Iahawk

Casa de Vino in Isera is similar to the culinary institute in that it has a cooking school (or did) that serves two meals each day - 1 seating for lunch and 1 for dinner....each around 12-14 people. We happened to be there and had several wines on a patio overlooking the vineyards which was lovely, followed by a 5 course lunch with wine for around 40e/person. A mini bus of tourists arrived and had their lunch in a dining room. We just relaxed on the patio!