I leave in three weeks for a week at Limepark (www.limepark.com) in Armoy (Northern Ireland), which looks like a perfect self-catering base for me to explore the Antrim Coast, Giant's Causeway, and the Glens, as well as to possibly venture to Derry and/or Donegal. After that, I'll spend five days performing and teaching workshops at the Belfast/Nashville Songwriters festival in Belfast.

I've been reading lots of books and travel guides that all reference "The Troubles" but I admit that I could never quite keep track of all the different terms or make much sense of the situation.

Well, last night, I read "Northern Ireland . . . in Pictures" (Visual Geography Series) by Lerner Publications. I got it from the library to look at the pictures. It includes the best, simple-to-understand summary of the history of Ireland and N. Ireland -- and explanation of "the Troubles." It was published in 1992, so it may not be easy to find, but I highly recommend it for anyone considering a trip to N. Ireland.

I'd also read "Silver Linings: Travels Around Northern Ireland" (Abacus Books) by Martin Fletcher. It was published in 2000 and documents the author's travels through the country. It paints a very frightening picture of the areas affected by "The Troubles." It seemed each town he visited was defined by the murders, violence, and bombings. Apparently, it was written just prior to the cease-fire.

I've not found any travel books about N. Ireland written more recently -- after the cease-fire took effect. Any suggestions for books (or for places to visit) would be welcome.

Those who are in charge of the music festival have assured me that there has been a night and day difference over the past five years -- and that I will be perfectly safe. In addition to the educational and entertainment aspects, the festival is intended to help prmote tolerance through the arts. If anyone is interested in attending, the concerts (by top Nashville and N. Irish songwriter/performers) and workshops are open to the public. You can get info at www.belfastnashville.com)

ttt

Offhand, I can't think of a proper book written on this subject since the Good Friday agrement: the political situation has been too fluid to make books terribly useful. There have been an awful lot of recent books about marginal issues around the Troubles (mostly about which government was secretly conspiring with which terrorist group for which bizarre purpose). But none I can think of that really bring the whole thing up to date.

The two best sources for up to date backround are the BBC website (just randomly search it for anything on N Ireland then surf) and the Economist web archives.

The books I'd personally recommend are anything by Fionnuala O'Connor (for much of the past few years, the Economist's Northern Irish correspondent). She's particularly good at understanding the attitudes of the Catholic tribe. Peter Taylor's "Loyalists" isn't quite as good at explaining the Protestant tribe. Both authors' works are dating a bit.

David McKittrick's "Making Sense of the Troubles" (2001) updates the picture a fair bit.

On safety, just remember one thing. At the height of Northern Ireland's undeclared civil war, the annual murder rate (in killings per thousand population, including bomb victims) not once came anywhere near the normal annual rate in Washington DC.

And, as in Washington DC, those killings (and all the rest of the Toubles' nastinesses) were tightly focused. Granted, while the Troubles were at their height, my colleagues repeatedly dissuaded me (I have a very "English" accent) from visiting the terrorist heartland of South Armagh. But, as an outsider, I happily (and utterly safely) conducted business in the Catholic and Protestant enclaves of Derry and Belfast, even while local colleagues were bearing the brunt of the robberies, bombings and kidnappings.

Outside the real core terrorist areas, Northern Ireland was as idyllically peaceful as the Cotswolds, but without the tourists, even in the early 90s. I'd be a great deal more nervous about visiting Washington these days than Antrim.

Hi Songdoc,

I hope you enjoy your visit to NI.

I have lived here all my life (50+ years} and in all that time I have never seen a bombing a killing or even a riot. In the past my journeys were held up on occasions with bomb scares but I never once witnesed one. I am not alone, recently some friends and myself were discussing the riots in Paris and we all agreed that if the media reporting was amything like it was in Belfast during the troubles then the chances of seeing any violence was nil.

Come to NI and enjoy the scenery but don't try to understand the troubles. I don't understand it and have lived here all my life.

NI is very safe and the Antrim Coast and Glens of Antrim delightful.

Don't know Limepark, had a look at their website and it looks charming - do report back and lets us know what you thought of it.

Are you hiring a car?

If so, you will have no difficulty reaching Derry or Donegal (BTW Derry is famous for their singers, in particular country music).

If you have free time in Belfast do let me know and I will recommend some interesting places to visit.

Have a good trip and don't worry about your safety.

Helen

ttt