14 days Ireland -- stay in south or also do north?
Dec 30th, 2006, 06:48 PM
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14 days Ireland -- stay in south or also do north?
My husand and I are in our 30s and planning a 14 day trip to Ireland at the end of May - early June.
We are planning our itinerary. Our question -- should we go to Northern Ireland or will that be too much in a 14 day trip (we will be driving most of it)? If we go North, the coast and Giant's Causeway are of the highest interest to me, and my husband is interested in Belfast.
We purchased plane tickets already to and from Dublin, and made reservations for the 1st 2 nights in Dublin. We would also like to see SW and Western Ireland for sure (Dingle, Galway, Aaran Islands, Cliffs of Moher, etc.) & a few other sights are high on the list(Cashel, Glendalough, Killarney). We like variety -- small towns, walkable/liveable type cities (we loved Munich), beautiful scenery, culture, outdoors, history. A fast but not exhausting pace is good for us--we generally like to spend at least 2 nights in a place although a few one nighters are fine if it makes sense for the itinerary and we considered 3 nights in Dingle b/c we've read such great things about it (plan to do a bike trip)!
Thanks for your help! (I'm sure I'll be asking for more help once we get this one figured out)
We are planning our itinerary. Our question -- should we go to Northern Ireland or will that be too much in a 14 day trip (we will be driving most of it)? If we go North, the coast and Giant's Causeway are of the highest interest to me, and my husband is interested in Belfast.
We purchased plane tickets already to and from Dublin, and made reservations for the 1st 2 nights in Dublin. We would also like to see SW and Western Ireland for sure (Dingle, Galway, Aaran Islands, Cliffs of Moher, etc.) & a few other sights are high on the list(Cashel, Glendalough, Killarney). We like variety -- small towns, walkable/liveable type cities (we loved Munich), beautiful scenery, culture, outdoors, history. A fast but not exhausting pace is good for us--we generally like to spend at least 2 nights in a place although a few one nighters are fine if it makes sense for the itinerary and we considered 3 nights in Dingle b/c we've read such great things about it (plan to do a bike trip)!
Thanks for your help! (I'm sure I'll be asking for more help once we get this one figured out)
Dec 30th, 2006, 07:24 PM
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Here's my take...and it is only an impression. We visited Ireland 2 summers ago., hired a knowledgeable car and driver (split the cost between 3 couples) and toured mostly Southern part, which I believe is mostly Catholic, much of it is rural, and has a lot of history, which they willingly tell you about, in detail, and not very flattering to the English. Some of us wanted to see Belfast and Giant's Causeway (which was very worthwhile) but Belfast seemed tense, lots of signs and symptoms of the 'troubles' there (like barbed wire/razor wire around the police station, lots of political grafiti) and our guide, who was from the S. Ireland near Dublin was pretty nervous all the time we were there. There were two incidents (Protestant/Catholc) of violence in the two days we were there. Don't know how much it has changed, but if you have only two weeks, I would just stay in the south...Our itinery included several stays at Irish Manor homes that have been converted into B&B's, and we saw some 'off the beaten' track places, staying at least two days each place, getting settled, then venturing out to see the local 'sights'. You are going to LOVE it.!!
Dec 30th, 2006, 07:54 PM
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I really have to reply to people who give Northern Ireland a bad rap. I have been traveling there for many decades and just returned from my last trip there in October. samting visited there two years ago and I think he and his driver/guide are misinformed.
The political murals (graffiti) are a part of history and tourists go out of their way to view them in Belfast and Derry. It is true that the police stations are behind razor wire because they are a target of thugs. But long gone are the things that I saw in the past like whole towns being barricaded by huge rolls of razor wire, not being able to drive through many towns or park in town because of fear of car bombs. I no longer see the British troops manning the borders and thoroughly searching each car crossing into No. Ireland. I no longer see the troops maneuvering through the streets with machine guns or the helicopters buzzing overhead.
It is a new century in No. Ireland. The 1998 Peace Accord changed things drastically and for the better. There are still flare-ups that you hear of on the news. There are tensions on July 12th when the marching season is in full swing. But a tourist would have to go looking for trouble to find it. And any tourist that believes 100% what is depicted on the news lives on a different planet because everything on the news is negative.
I am still alive without any harm from bomb blasts or machine gun fire. In fact I believe that no tourist has ever been harmed by "The Troubles".
The scariest thing I saw on my last trip to No. Ireland was my husband crossing Carrick-a-Rede Rope Bridge!
I feel safer in No. Ireland than in the large US city where I live. I am eagerly planning my next trip to No. Ireland for the spring. I can't wait to go back.
Anyone else who has been there or lives there have an opinion?
(( Climbing down off my soapbox ))
The political murals (graffiti) are a part of history and tourists go out of their way to view them in Belfast and Derry. It is true that the police stations are behind razor wire because they are a target of thugs. But long gone are the things that I saw in the past like whole towns being barricaded by huge rolls of razor wire, not being able to drive through many towns or park in town because of fear of car bombs. I no longer see the British troops manning the borders and thoroughly searching each car crossing into No. Ireland. I no longer see the troops maneuvering through the streets with machine guns or the helicopters buzzing overhead.
It is a new century in No. Ireland. The 1998 Peace Accord changed things drastically and for the better. There are still flare-ups that you hear of on the news. There are tensions on July 12th when the marching season is in full swing. But a tourist would have to go looking for trouble to find it. And any tourist that believes 100% what is depicted on the news lives on a different planet because everything on the news is negative.
I am still alive without any harm from bomb blasts or machine gun fire. In fact I believe that no tourist has ever been harmed by "The Troubles".
The scariest thing I saw on my last trip to No. Ireland was my husband crossing Carrick-a-Rede Rope Bridge!
I feel safer in No. Ireland than in the large US city where I live. I am eagerly planning my next trip to No. Ireland for the spring. I can't wait to go back.
Anyone else who has been there or lives there have an opinion?
(( Climbing down off my soapbox ))
Dec 30th, 2006, 11:30 PM
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Just like to endorse everything said by IrishEyes. Well said!
If you have two weeks in Ireland then DO try to see a bit of the north. Way too many places of interest to list here, but why not hire a car and tour NI coastline going from east to west. You can do it in a few days (maybe more, maybe less). Start in Belfast. Bet you love it!
If you have two weeks in Ireland then DO try to see a bit of the north. Way too many places of interest to list here, but why not hire a car and tour NI coastline going from east to west. You can do it in a few days (maybe more, maybe less). Start in Belfast. Bet you love it!
Dec 30th, 2006, 11:39 PM
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Have been to the Republic ("South"
several times and to the North once. Although all of Ireland has it's beauty and charms, we absolutely fell in love with the countryside (Antrim coast, Island Magee...) of the North, as well as the incredibly friendly people.
several times and to the North once. Although all of Ireland has it's beauty and charms, we absolutely fell in love with the countryside (Antrim coast, Island Magee...) of the North, as well as the incredibly friendly people.
Dec 31st, 2006, 01:25 AM
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In my view it is going to make your schedule a little tight but Northern Ireland definitely does have its charms. The Antrim Coast, and the Giants Causeway are worth a visit and your timing is good.
If you are thinking that you might return again to Ireland, then consider the northern parts for a second trip. If not, try to fit in at least a taste of it.
One further note. To me, the charm of Ireland is found in the countryside, in the people, and in their music. The cities are OK but to experience the best one needs to be in the countryside and the little villages.
If you are thinking that you might return again to Ireland, then consider the northern parts for a second trip. If not, try to fit in at least a taste of it.
One further note. To me, the charm of Ireland is found in the countryside, in the people, and in their music. The cities are OK but to experience the best one needs to be in the countryside and the little villages.
Dec 31st, 2006, 05:21 AM
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My husband and I were in SW Ireland for over a week in Oct. and the small towns are the place to go, definitely. We loved Dingle Peninsula, stayed at Ballyseede Castle in Tralee as a base there, which was so beautiful. The rest of the time, we drove over lots of mountains, and a favorite town was Kenmare, fun shopping and walkable, won the tidy town award. The pubs are the place to eat, delicious food, cheaper than restaurants. I would love to visit N. Ireland but we stayed in the one area, going from Shannon, to Tralee, Dingle, Kenmare, Bantry, Blarney, up to Rock of Cashel, over to Galway Bay, Burren to Cliffs of Moher-magnificent-don't miss, and back to Shannon. We stayed in B&B's with such character and mainly on the coasts and bays. I wasn't prepared for the wild and untamed beauty of the landscapes and cloudscapes. The roads are not easy traveling, but don't try to drive so much everyday. The longest drive we did was Blarney,to Cahir Castle to Rock of Cashel, to Galway Bay in a day-exhausting. The people are friendly, and you will love it!
Dec 31st, 2006, 06:10 AM
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No concerns on my part as far as travel in NI. However, I probably wouldn't squeeze it in to your itinerary if you're planning to do the SW. I'd suggest focusing the areas you noted and get the most out of it.
Dec 31st, 2006, 08:41 AM
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With 14 days, I'd definitely include Northern Ireland. It's not that far a drive. As you can read in my trip report, I loved it and felt 100% safe. I agree with everything IrishEyes said, and will reiterate that the only remnants of "the troubles" are interesting, historical reminders.
The Antrim Coast, the Giant's Causeway, Dunluce Castle, and the Glens rival anything in the SW -- but with fewer tourists and lower prices. While Belfast was pleasant -- it's a city, and for me, it couldn't compare with the smaller towns and coasts.
The Antrim Coast, the Giant's Causeway, Dunluce Castle, and the Glens rival anything in the SW -- but with fewer tourists and lower prices. While Belfast was pleasant -- it's a city, and for me, it couldn't compare with the smaller towns and coasts.
Dec 31st, 2006, 09:12 AM
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Cbruner, I am going to borrow IrishEyes soapbox for a moment and give you and Samting the view of a NI resident. I was born and bred in Belfast and apart from a few years away at Uni have lived here for 50+ years. In all that time I have never seen any trouble, bombings, killings etc. Yes, it did occur and I was inconvienced on many occasions but if you don't go looking for trouble you generally don't find it.
Did you know that NI is 'the hip' place for 2007?
Samting, had I been your driver I would have taken you on a walking tour of CS Lewis's childhood, a visit to the city hall and Queens University. I would have shown you where the Titanic was build and a wander round Botanic gardens and the Ulster Museum. A cycle ride along the Lagan tow path with lunch on the way at Malone House. Or how about a wander around the grounds of Stormont castle where the 'Good Friday Agreement' was signed?
You would have seen no signs and symptoms of the 'troubles', no barbed wire/razor wire around police stations and no political grafiti.
Most people head for the North Antrim Coast when coming to NI (and it is not to be missed) but there are lots of other places to visit.
Down and Armagh - here you will find the Mourne Mountains (did you know that this was where CS Lewis got his inspiration for writing 'The Lion the Witch and the Wardrobe'. He stayed in a small house which was owned by his school and in the days before global warming there would have been lots of snow up there?), Hillsborough, The Ulster folk and Transport Museum at Cultra, Strangford, Ards Peninsula Downpatrick, Armagh City, Naven Fort, the Ring of Gullion.
Fermanagh and it's beautiful lakes
The American Folk Park in Co Tyrone
I will climb off IrishEyes soap box now but terrible things have happened tonight in Belfast. The New Year Celebrations have been cancelled for security reasons. We have road blocks over NI and some structural damage. Not due to the troubles but the 80 -100 mph winds which have swept the provence all day.
A Happy New Year to you all and happy travels for 2007, from a peaceful but very stormy Belfat
Helen
Did you know that NI is 'the hip' place for 2007?
Samting, had I been your driver I would have taken you on a walking tour of CS Lewis's childhood, a visit to the city hall and Queens University. I would have shown you where the Titanic was build and a wander round Botanic gardens and the Ulster Museum. A cycle ride along the Lagan tow path with lunch on the way at Malone House. Or how about a wander around the grounds of Stormont castle where the 'Good Friday Agreement' was signed?
You would have seen no signs and symptoms of the 'troubles', no barbed wire/razor wire around police stations and no political grafiti.
Most people head for the North Antrim Coast when coming to NI (and it is not to be missed) but there are lots of other places to visit.
Down and Armagh - here you will find the Mourne Mountains (did you know that this was where CS Lewis got his inspiration for writing 'The Lion the Witch and the Wardrobe'. He stayed in a small house which was owned by his school and in the days before global warming there would have been lots of snow up there?), Hillsborough, The Ulster folk and Transport Museum at Cultra, Strangford, Ards Peninsula Downpatrick, Armagh City, Naven Fort, the Ring of Gullion.
Fermanagh and it's beautiful lakes
The American Folk Park in Co Tyrone
I will climb off IrishEyes soap box now but terrible things have happened tonight in Belfast. The New Year Celebrations have been cancelled for security reasons. We have road blocks over NI and some structural damage. Not due to the troubles but the 80 -100 mph winds which have swept the provence all day.
A Happy New Year to you all and happy travels for 2007, from a peaceful but very stormy Belfat
Helen
Dec 31st, 2006, 10:39 AM
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this past june we had a driver/guide for our family tour of Ireland and we spent a day in Northern Ireland. He commented that things have changed (he was not uncomfortable at all and noted that we would hardly know the difference when crossing into NI...and we didn't. our tour guide of the Derry walls and bog side murals noted how things are very positive and optimistic for continued peace.
We actually stayed just outside of letterkenney (republic), but it was convenient for a day trip of derry, dunluce castle, and the giant's causeway...all of which we loved. next trip I would definately like to spend more time touring more of the antrim coast.
can't comment on belfast...but I prefer smaller towns to cities anyway.
this past trip we spent 10 days up and down west coast...last trip we looped from dublin across to galway, then along southern coast back to dublin (I have trip reports on here if you look way back)
for what you want to see, I would suggest...
2 nights-dublin
we liked the musical and literary pub crawls, kilmainham jail, hop on/off bus, and book of kells, went to guiness brewery...not must see, but fun
1night- belfast/or near
(newgrange and/or hill of tara on way)
2 nights- antrim coast
(giant's causeway, dunluce castle)
2 nights-outside of galway (we stayed in galway...not my favorite, would select small town nearby)
this will be a long drive...we did similar distance (letterkenny to doolin) we enjoyed stop at carrowmore megalithic tombs, yeat's grave, belleek, and tully castle on way up north,then knock on the way back...you will also pass cong which is nice stop
(1 day aran island or touring connemara)
1 doolin
(on way-thru burren/cliffs)
3 dingle
(slea head, killarney national park)
1 cashel
(on way-cahir castle, rock of cashel)
2 near glendalough (kilkenny castle, jerpoint abbey on way...then glendalough and powerscourt next day)
We actually stayed just outside of letterkenney (republic), but it was convenient for a day trip of derry, dunluce castle, and the giant's causeway...all of which we loved. next trip I would definately like to spend more time touring more of the antrim coast.
can't comment on belfast...but I prefer smaller towns to cities anyway.
this past trip we spent 10 days up and down west coast...last trip we looped from dublin across to galway, then along southern coast back to dublin (I have trip reports on here if you look way back)
for what you want to see, I would suggest...
2 nights-dublin
we liked the musical and literary pub crawls, kilmainham jail, hop on/off bus, and book of kells, went to guiness brewery...not must see, but fun
1night- belfast/or near
(newgrange and/or hill of tara on way)
2 nights- antrim coast
(giant's causeway, dunluce castle)
2 nights-outside of galway (we stayed in galway...not my favorite, would select small town nearby)
this will be a long drive...we did similar distance (letterkenny to doolin) we enjoyed stop at carrowmore megalithic tombs, yeat's grave, belleek, and tully castle on way up north,then knock on the way back...you will also pass cong which is nice stop
(1 day aran island or touring connemara)
1 doolin
(on way-thru burren/cliffs)
3 dingle
(slea head, killarney national park)
1 cashel
(on way-cahir castle, rock of cashel)
2 near glendalough (kilkenny castle, jerpoint abbey on way...then glendalough and powerscourt next day)
Dec 31st, 2006, 10:52 AM
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Hello cbruner,
We were in Ireland for two weeks at the time of the vote on the peace accord in 1998. I could not talk my husband into going to Northern Ireland because he was afraid there would be some unrest in connection with the vote. We were driving through Sligo as they announced the result. So, these are my travel regrets at work, but I think it would be wonderful to spend a couple of nights there on your trip. Yes, it will mean a couple of nights you have to give up somewhere else, but really, that would be the case with anything -- another night in Dingle means one less night in Connemara, etc. etc....
But if you think there is a chance you might go back, then I would suggest spending longer in Ireland and saving Northern Ireland for when you can really spend several days there. I have a feeling I will end up doing that myself someday. Especially if you are spending two nights in Dublin, you will find that the other nights go very quickly when you start seeing the beautiful scenery of the southwest and western parts of Ireland.
We were in Ireland for two weeks at the time of the vote on the peace accord in 1998. I could not talk my husband into going to Northern Ireland because he was afraid there would be some unrest in connection with the vote. We were driving through Sligo as they announced the result. So, these are my travel regrets at work, but I think it would be wonderful to spend a couple of nights there on your trip. Yes, it will mean a couple of nights you have to give up somewhere else, but really, that would be the case with anything -- another night in Dingle means one less night in Connemara, etc. etc....
But if you think there is a chance you might go back, then I would suggest spending longer in Ireland and saving Northern Ireland for when you can really spend several days there. I have a feeling I will end up doing that myself someday. Especially if you are spending two nights in Dublin, you will find that the other nights go very quickly when you start seeing the beautiful scenery of the southwest and western parts of Ireland.
Dec 31st, 2006, 01:09 PM
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cbruner, Now that I am off my soapbox I would suggest that you decide what area of Ireland is most important for you to see. In two weeks you cannot see everything. It is much better to concentrate on covering less territory because you will enjoy it more. I would choose either seeing Dublin, a bit of midlands (Cashel), southwest and west or doing something entirely different and seeing Dublin, Northern Ireland, and the west. Think of either a northern loop or a southern loop, not both. You want to be able to enjoy what you see not just see it passing by the window of your car!
Dec 31st, 2006, 02:15 PM
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Wow. These are all very helpful responses. We actually aren't that concerned about safety/ security -- just time! We live in the Washington, D.C. area, so are used to at least some level of insecurity, but I do appreciate the insights. I think we'll put together a few itineraries soon with and w/o Northern Ireland and ask for some additional feedback. Your responses are right on with our thoughts -- we're torn on trying to fit in a taste of a lot or more in-depth in fewer places . . . . always the travel dilemma! I think this will be our last big trip for a while, so that's the difficulty (some of you mentioned doing Northern Ireland in another trip). Happy and safe New Year to all and I'll probably post a new message asking for additional & more specific itinerary help.
Dec 31st, 2006, 02:52 PM
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Our first trip together included a swoop around the north coast of NI and finishing at Donegal town. Then public transporation coach across to Cavan and later to Dublin.
We loved our visit on the Antrim Coast, particularly the Glenariff Forest Park Waterfall Walk.
I wouldn't ignore the little known gems of the NE of NI.
We loved our visit on the Antrim Coast, particularly the Glenariff Forest Park Waterfall Walk.
I wouldn't ignore the little known gems of the NE of NI.
Dec 31st, 2006, 09:44 PM
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cbruner: Once you make a decision on an itinerary and actually go to Ireland you will never miss what you did not see. Instead you will remember fondly what you DID see. Don't sweat it too much. Ireland is full of wonderful places and what ever you do will be memorable. Just know that driving in Ireland is slow. Count on "averaging" 35 mph. That is a good rule of thumb for making your plans.
