Nine days on the ground in London: A trip report
Aug 17th, 2011, 07:56 PM
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The next installment:
Wednesday: Today, the hubs had to work the entire day! Poor him. We just couldn’t let a whole day go. And everything else was contingent on other things, so this was our only day to go to Salisbury. He was OK with that. He and I will go back again, we promised each other.
So I was a little nervous about this day. I love my in-laws, but they’re accustomed to traveling in large groups led by a guide. My MIL, bless her heart, questioned me at every turn. No matter that I had been researching for months. She couldn’t help it. Thank God for yoga is all I can say.
My only experience with trains in Europe before this trip was taking the TGV from Gare de Lyon to Avignon. And if you’ve done that and your French is rusty, you know that it’s a bit nerve-wracking.
Not so in London. For one thing, the language is no barrier. And for another, the signage in British train stations is far superior to those in Paris, IMO. So we took the Tube to Waterloo station, then asked a ticket agent there for a ticket to Salisbury. We paid a little upcharge, he explained the drill, and we were off.
The trip by train takes about 90 minutes. Once you disembark in Salisbury and leave the station, you turn left and there’s a bus to Stonehenge. Costs 18 pounds for adults, 15 pounds for seniors and 9 pounds for children. The double-decker bus takes you through Salisbury, past Old Sarum and to Stonehenge, with an audio tour. Then the driver takes you right up to the Stonehenge entrance, where you can walk right up to the site.
Some people have said Stonehenge is underwhelming. We did not find this to be the case. When we first planned our trip, I asked my kids what they wanted to see, and all three wanted to visit Stonehenge. They have been to other UNESCO World Heritage Sites (http://whc.unesco.org/), and they are huge history buffs. They wanted to see this place. I did, too, so I was glad they were so excited. My in-laws had been there before, but as part of a large group. They had a slightly different experience.
My older kids and I discussed the significance of the site in between listening to the audioguide, but my DS8 was enthralled with the audioguide itself. He listened to the whole thing, thus our visit to the stones was more prolonged than some. For us, it was an inspiring visit.
The bus picks up every 30 minutes, so when we were ready to go we only waited about 10-15 minutes for a bus. The ride back to Salisbury was interesting. The landscape is so beautiful, and it’s interesting to see the surrounding burial mounds. We opted not to get off at Old Sarum. It was a blustery day, and my mother-in-law wasn’t sure she could hike to the top of the hill.
We left the bus when it stopped in the center of Salisbury. What a beautiful village! The architecture is just enchanting. We asked a woman pushing a pram for recommendations for lunch, and she directed us to Strada, an Italian chain restaurant. The food was all right; actually, the kids love it. My daughter could subsist on spaghetti. But I didn’t want to take the time to eat there; I wanted to go to the cathedral.
This is something that bugged me during the whole trip. With so many people traveling together, someone always was hungry and demanding a meal. I think we wasted a lot of time eating. But I realize I’m a little neurotic and schedule-oriented. So more yoga breathing for me.
However, I was totally right. By the time we navigated toward the cathedral and DS8 went to the bathroom for the umpteenth time, it was almost 4:30 p.m. Also, we didn’t always move so quickly because my MIL is slightly distracted by any and all shopping opportunities. I practically ran into the cathedral and asked after the chapter house, where we could gaze at an original copy of the Magna Carta. According to my 2011 Fodor’s England, the chapter house was open until 5:30 p.m. So I was crushed when the nice lady taking admission said the chapter house closes at 4:30 p.m. and has for a year. We weren’t the only ones with faulty information, either, because there were about five groups of people behind us who also thought it was open until 5:30 p.m. I was so upset. My DD13 was looking forward to seeing the Magna Carta, too, because she just had studied it in school.
So we just wandered around the cathedral cloisters and close. The cathedral is just breathtaking.
We made it back to the Salisbury train station just in time to catch a departing train to London. Seats were at a premium, so we split up a bit. My in-laws sat together in the back of our coach. My younger two kids fell asleep. And my DS15 and I sat next to two young men returning to London from some military maneuvers. They were great fun to talk to, although when they got going my son and I had some trouble understanding them. They gave us some great advice on sites to see – they suggested Hamleys, for example, which I hadn’t thought of but that my younger son just loved.
On the train to London, I texted my husband and asked him to meet us at Waterloo station. He had just returned from his conference and so had the chance to go for a run in Kensington Gardens and Hyde Park. He absolutely loved it and went back later in the week. He wrote about it here: http://www.examiner.net/opinions/x12...t-took-so-long.
He met us at Waterloo. The weather was deluxe, and we decided to pop over to the London Eye and see what the lines were like. There basically was no line, so my husband and I and our kids bought tickets and hopped on. The in-laws had no desire to go up, so they sat outside and people-watched and waited for us.
For me personally, riding the London Eye was conquering my fear. I do not like heights particularly, but I really wasn’t afraid. And the views – wow! How could I focus on my fears when there was so much to see? We got some great photos. We bought the little 360-degree map thing sold at the ticket desk so we would have a souvenir and actually know what we were looking at.
The ride took about 30 minutes. When we finished, we all went back to Waterloo and took the Tube to Notting Hill Gate. This night, we ate at a wonderful Greek restaurant called Costas Grill (http://www.costasgrill.com/) on Hillgate Street. It was getting late, but the proprietor welcomed us with classic Greek hospitality. The food was delicious, and there was something for everyone. My in-laws aren’t the most adventurous eaters, but they are great sports and remarked that they never thought they’d travel to England and end up eating more ethnic food than they could imagine!
We basically closed down the restaurant, then went west on Hillgate Street to our flat after another great day in London.
At this point in the trip, I began to worry that I was walking my in-laws too much. They just don’t travel in this way, but I think they enjoyed seeing the things they were seeing (at least, that was their story.) They had been to London two or three times but rarely really saw it. However, they were completely exhausted by the end of the day.
Wednesday: Today, the hubs had to work the entire day! Poor him. We just couldn’t let a whole day go. And everything else was contingent on other things, so this was our only day to go to Salisbury. He was OK with that. He and I will go back again, we promised each other.
So I was a little nervous about this day. I love my in-laws, but they’re accustomed to traveling in large groups led by a guide. My MIL, bless her heart, questioned me at every turn. No matter that I had been researching for months. She couldn’t help it. Thank God for yoga is all I can say.
My only experience with trains in Europe before this trip was taking the TGV from Gare de Lyon to Avignon. And if you’ve done that and your French is rusty, you know that it’s a bit nerve-wracking.
Not so in London. For one thing, the language is no barrier. And for another, the signage in British train stations is far superior to those in Paris, IMO. So we took the Tube to Waterloo station, then asked a ticket agent there for a ticket to Salisbury. We paid a little upcharge, he explained the drill, and we were off.
The trip by train takes about 90 minutes. Once you disembark in Salisbury and leave the station, you turn left and there’s a bus to Stonehenge. Costs 18 pounds for adults, 15 pounds for seniors and 9 pounds for children. The double-decker bus takes you through Salisbury, past Old Sarum and to Stonehenge, with an audio tour. Then the driver takes you right up to the Stonehenge entrance, where you can walk right up to the site.
Some people have said Stonehenge is underwhelming. We did not find this to be the case. When we first planned our trip, I asked my kids what they wanted to see, and all three wanted to visit Stonehenge. They have been to other UNESCO World Heritage Sites (http://whc.unesco.org/), and they are huge history buffs. They wanted to see this place. I did, too, so I was glad they were so excited. My in-laws had been there before, but as part of a large group. They had a slightly different experience.
My older kids and I discussed the significance of the site in between listening to the audioguide, but my DS8 was enthralled with the audioguide itself. He listened to the whole thing, thus our visit to the stones was more prolonged than some. For us, it was an inspiring visit.
The bus picks up every 30 minutes, so when we were ready to go we only waited about 10-15 minutes for a bus. The ride back to Salisbury was interesting. The landscape is so beautiful, and it’s interesting to see the surrounding burial mounds. We opted not to get off at Old Sarum. It was a blustery day, and my mother-in-law wasn’t sure she could hike to the top of the hill.
We left the bus when it stopped in the center of Salisbury. What a beautiful village! The architecture is just enchanting. We asked a woman pushing a pram for recommendations for lunch, and she directed us to Strada, an Italian chain restaurant. The food was all right; actually, the kids love it. My daughter could subsist on spaghetti. But I didn’t want to take the time to eat there; I wanted to go to the cathedral.
This is something that bugged me during the whole trip. With so many people traveling together, someone always was hungry and demanding a meal. I think we wasted a lot of time eating. But I realize I’m a little neurotic and schedule-oriented. So more yoga breathing for me.
However, I was totally right. By the time we navigated toward the cathedral and DS8 went to the bathroom for the umpteenth time, it was almost 4:30 p.m. Also, we didn’t always move so quickly because my MIL is slightly distracted by any and all shopping opportunities. I practically ran into the cathedral and asked after the chapter house, where we could gaze at an original copy of the Magna Carta. According to my 2011 Fodor’s England, the chapter house was open until 5:30 p.m. So I was crushed when the nice lady taking admission said the chapter house closes at 4:30 p.m. and has for a year. We weren’t the only ones with faulty information, either, because there were about five groups of people behind us who also thought it was open until 5:30 p.m. I was so upset. My DD13 was looking forward to seeing the Magna Carta, too, because she just had studied it in school.
So we just wandered around the cathedral cloisters and close. The cathedral is just breathtaking.
We made it back to the Salisbury train station just in time to catch a departing train to London. Seats were at a premium, so we split up a bit. My in-laws sat together in the back of our coach. My younger two kids fell asleep. And my DS15 and I sat next to two young men returning to London from some military maneuvers. They were great fun to talk to, although when they got going my son and I had some trouble understanding them. They gave us some great advice on sites to see – they suggested Hamleys, for example, which I hadn’t thought of but that my younger son just loved.
On the train to London, I texted my husband and asked him to meet us at Waterloo station. He had just returned from his conference and so had the chance to go for a run in Kensington Gardens and Hyde Park. He absolutely loved it and went back later in the week. He wrote about it here: http://www.examiner.net/opinions/x12...t-took-so-long.
He met us at Waterloo. The weather was deluxe, and we decided to pop over to the London Eye and see what the lines were like. There basically was no line, so my husband and I and our kids bought tickets and hopped on. The in-laws had no desire to go up, so they sat outside and people-watched and waited for us.
For me personally, riding the London Eye was conquering my fear. I do not like heights particularly, but I really wasn’t afraid. And the views – wow! How could I focus on my fears when there was so much to see? We got some great photos. We bought the little 360-degree map thing sold at the ticket desk so we would have a souvenir and actually know what we were looking at.
The ride took about 30 minutes. When we finished, we all went back to Waterloo and took the Tube to Notting Hill Gate. This night, we ate at a wonderful Greek restaurant called Costas Grill (http://www.costasgrill.com/) on Hillgate Street. It was getting late, but the proprietor welcomed us with classic Greek hospitality. The food was delicious, and there was something for everyone. My in-laws aren’t the most adventurous eaters, but they are great sports and remarked that they never thought they’d travel to England and end up eating more ethnic food than they could imagine!
We basically closed down the restaurant, then went west on Hillgate Street to our flat after another great day in London.
At this point in the trip, I began to worry that I was walking my in-laws too much. They just don’t travel in this way, but I think they enjoyed seeing the things they were seeing (at least, that was their story.) They had been to London two or three times but rarely really saw it. However, they were completely exhausted by the end of the day.
Aug 18th, 2011, 12:54 AM
#23
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Sorry you missed seeing Salisbury's copy of Magna Carta.
You might be interested in this British Library website
http://www.bl.uk/treasures/magnacarta/index.html
BTW, the good folk of Salisbury would be mildly surprised to find that their city has dwindled into a village ;-)
You might be interested in this British Library website
http://www.bl.uk/treasures/magnacarta/index.html
BTW, the good folk of Salisbury would be mildly surprised to find that their city has dwindled into a village ;-)
Aug 18th, 2011, 01:07 AM
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Aha, it looks as though the British Library still has a copy on display
http://www.bl.uk/whatson/permgall/treasures/magna.html
It will not be as good a copy as the Salisbury one but worth a visit.
There's a lot of other wonderful stuff to see in that gallery too. I love the literary manuscripts and the sacred texts. The sacred texts are beautifully illuminated. You can see the actual book and in many cases can "virtually" turn the pages.
http://www.bl.uk/whatson/permgall/treasures/magna.html
It will not be as good a copy as the Salisbury one but worth a visit.
There's a lot of other wonderful stuff to see in that gallery too. I love the literary manuscripts and the sacred texts. The sacred texts are beautifully illuminated. You can see the actual book and in many cases can "virtually" turn the pages.
Aug 21st, 2011, 08:32 PM
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Here's some more---
Thursday: Today was our Tower of London day. Contrary to the advice of many on this forum, we went to the tower in the morning, then returned at night for the Ceremony of the Keys. It was a long day, but it worked out in the end.
We arrived at the Tower just as it opened. We used our 2-for-1 coupons to save on admission, then headed in and went straight to the Crown Jewels. So glad we followed that Fodorite advice because when we came out , the line was literally out the door of the building. Then we looked around a bit before heading back to the entrance to catch a Beefeater tour.
Alas! It began to storm. The wind blew, rain started pouring, but a crowd of us stood, huddled under umbrellas, and waited for the tour to begin. Pretty soon a Beefeater approached and told us the tour was canceled until the weather broke. He suggested visiting the chapel in the White Tower for a different sort of guided tour.
I was crestfallen. This was not in my plan! However, we slogged over to the White Tower, went too quickly through the first floor exhibit and hurried to the second floor to the chapel. The talk there didn’t disappoint. And maybe we wouldn’t have done this if the weather had been nicer. We learned about the chapel and some of the famous folk who worshipped there. Again, it was a nice precursor to something we’d do later in the week – namely our visit to Hampton Court Palace.
After the talk, we went through the White Tower. An ongoing issue we had to deal with on this vacation was our DS8’s teeny tiny bladder. The kid had to go to the bathroom at the most inopportune times and always when there was no loo in sight. This was one of those times. The White Tower filled with people because of the storm outside, and the line through the exhibit got longer and slower. Finally, DS8 could hold it no more, so my husband said he’d go with him to find a restroom. They ended up eventually leaving the White Tower and going to the New Armouries Café, where they secured a table for seven.
It’s a good thing they did, since the place was packed with people who resembled drowned rats. The rain was not letting up. Our feet were soaked, and the cobblestones were slick. But the café was warm and dry, and the food was very good and reasonably priced. (http://www.hrp.org.uk/TowerOfLondon/...roflondon.aspx) The mushy peas were exceptionally good, the kids thought.
Finally, we left the warmth and headed back into the gale. From there, we walked around the Tower, visiting the Tower Green, the Bloody Tower, the Lower Wakefield Tower. We also observed some obnoxious behavior. There was soldier posted next to the entrance of the Jewel House. I think he was a member of the Irish Guard. Anyway, some girls were trying to get him to smile. They were really being ridiculous and shrieky. I don’t know if this behavior is typical; I know the soldiers are famously stoic – but really. Such silly behavior. And then, when I was in the restroom, some teen girls were monopolizing the hand dryers as they attempted to dry out their Ugg boots. I reported them to the restroom attendant, who told me she’d said something to them but they were rude to her, so she let them be. Just kind of put a damper on the visit.
Anyway, in early afternoon, we decided to head out. I was still disappointed about the Beefeater tour, but the weather still stunk. So we decided to stop by Harrods on our way back to the flat. My MIL loves that place. It really is kind of a zoo in there. But it was something to behold. The Egyptian escalator was so interesting.
All over that ginormous store were women in full-length burqas, some with veils. They were buying large amounts of merchandise. I stopped into the children’s section to buy a gift for a friend back home who’d had a baby. On my way to the sale racks, I passed through a section with the fanciest dresses for little girls, some priced at more than 1,300 pounds. Women in burqas were buying things from this department with abandon. Just an interesting sight to behold. Here's an interesting story that might explain the trend: http://www.independent.co.uk/news/uk...s-2319918.html
My teens discovered a floor with all kinds of athletic apparel, and we actually ended up buying DS15 a new pair of soccer cleats because their sale price, even converted to USD, was cheaper than back at home.
We finally exited Harrods through the food halls and headed for the flat. We wanted to eat quickly so we’d have time to rest before heading back to the Tower. We grabbed some food at the Eat near the Notting Hill Gate Tube stop and went back to the flat to eat.
We left around 8 p.m. to get back to the Tower. I had requested the free Ceremony of the Keys tickets in April, and the accompanying letter stipulated that latecomers would not be admitted! (http://www.hrp.org.uk/toweroflondon/...ofthekeys.aspx) So we wanted to be early. We were about 30 minutes or more early, but that was OK. The weather had finally cleared and actually was warmer than in the daytime. It was a beautiful evening.
There was a large group of ceremony goers when the yeoman warder finally let us in. He was really informative and funny, ribbing us Americans for leaving England and all this history behind. It really does blow the mind to think of how many years certain things have been going on – the Ceremony of the Keys for 700 years, for example. That was a great take-away for our kids – the longevity of traditions and buildings and such in London, as compared with our Midwestern city where something that’s barely 100 years old is considered ancient. We all enjoyed the mysteriousness and pageantry of the ceremony. My in-laws particularly found it fascinating; despite their many trips to London, they’d never visited a site in this manner.
Again, I extend my thanks to the Fodorite who suggested the ceremony. What a wonderful experience!
Thursday: Today was our Tower of London day. Contrary to the advice of many on this forum, we went to the tower in the morning, then returned at night for the Ceremony of the Keys. It was a long day, but it worked out in the end.
We arrived at the Tower just as it opened. We used our 2-for-1 coupons to save on admission, then headed in and went straight to the Crown Jewels. So glad we followed that Fodorite advice because when we came out , the line was literally out the door of the building. Then we looked around a bit before heading back to the entrance to catch a Beefeater tour.
Alas! It began to storm. The wind blew, rain started pouring, but a crowd of us stood, huddled under umbrellas, and waited for the tour to begin. Pretty soon a Beefeater approached and told us the tour was canceled until the weather broke. He suggested visiting the chapel in the White Tower for a different sort of guided tour.
I was crestfallen. This was not in my plan! However, we slogged over to the White Tower, went too quickly through the first floor exhibit and hurried to the second floor to the chapel. The talk there didn’t disappoint. And maybe we wouldn’t have done this if the weather had been nicer. We learned about the chapel and some of the famous folk who worshipped there. Again, it was a nice precursor to something we’d do later in the week – namely our visit to Hampton Court Palace.
After the talk, we went through the White Tower. An ongoing issue we had to deal with on this vacation was our DS8’s teeny tiny bladder. The kid had to go to the bathroom at the most inopportune times and always when there was no loo in sight. This was one of those times. The White Tower filled with people because of the storm outside, and the line through the exhibit got longer and slower. Finally, DS8 could hold it no more, so my husband said he’d go with him to find a restroom. They ended up eventually leaving the White Tower and going to the New Armouries Café, where they secured a table for seven.
It’s a good thing they did, since the place was packed with people who resembled drowned rats. The rain was not letting up. Our feet were soaked, and the cobblestones were slick. But the café was warm and dry, and the food was very good and reasonably priced. (http://www.hrp.org.uk/TowerOfLondon/...roflondon.aspx) The mushy peas were exceptionally good, the kids thought.
Finally, we left the warmth and headed back into the gale. From there, we walked around the Tower, visiting the Tower Green, the Bloody Tower, the Lower Wakefield Tower. We also observed some obnoxious behavior. There was soldier posted next to the entrance of the Jewel House. I think he was a member of the Irish Guard. Anyway, some girls were trying to get him to smile. They were really being ridiculous and shrieky. I don’t know if this behavior is typical; I know the soldiers are famously stoic – but really. Such silly behavior. And then, when I was in the restroom, some teen girls were monopolizing the hand dryers as they attempted to dry out their Ugg boots. I reported them to the restroom attendant, who told me she’d said something to them but they were rude to her, so she let them be. Just kind of put a damper on the visit.
Anyway, in early afternoon, we decided to head out. I was still disappointed about the Beefeater tour, but the weather still stunk. So we decided to stop by Harrods on our way back to the flat. My MIL loves that place. It really is kind of a zoo in there. But it was something to behold. The Egyptian escalator was so interesting.
All over that ginormous store were women in full-length burqas, some with veils. They were buying large amounts of merchandise. I stopped into the children’s section to buy a gift for a friend back home who’d had a baby. On my way to the sale racks, I passed through a section with the fanciest dresses for little girls, some priced at more than 1,300 pounds. Women in burqas were buying things from this department with abandon. Just an interesting sight to behold. Here's an interesting story that might explain the trend: http://www.independent.co.uk/news/uk...s-2319918.html
My teens discovered a floor with all kinds of athletic apparel, and we actually ended up buying DS15 a new pair of soccer cleats because their sale price, even converted to USD, was cheaper than back at home.
We finally exited Harrods through the food halls and headed for the flat. We wanted to eat quickly so we’d have time to rest before heading back to the Tower. We grabbed some food at the Eat near the Notting Hill Gate Tube stop and went back to the flat to eat.
We left around 8 p.m. to get back to the Tower. I had requested the free Ceremony of the Keys tickets in April, and the accompanying letter stipulated that latecomers would not be admitted! (http://www.hrp.org.uk/toweroflondon/...ofthekeys.aspx) So we wanted to be early. We were about 30 minutes or more early, but that was OK. The weather had finally cleared and actually was warmer than in the daytime. It was a beautiful evening.
There was a large group of ceremony goers when the yeoman warder finally let us in. He was really informative and funny, ribbing us Americans for leaving England and all this history behind. It really does blow the mind to think of how many years certain things have been going on – the Ceremony of the Keys for 700 years, for example. That was a great take-away for our kids – the longevity of traditions and buildings and such in London, as compared with our Midwestern city where something that’s barely 100 years old is considered ancient. We all enjoyed the mysteriousness and pageantry of the ceremony. My in-laws particularly found it fascinating; despite their many trips to London, they’d never visited a site in this manner.
Again, I extend my thanks to the Fodorite who suggested the ceremony. What a wonderful experience!
Aug 22nd, 2011, 08:23 AM
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I'm following your days with great interest! Thanks for sharing your tips (2FOR1 coupons, Knopf map guide ...) & stories! I wondered how the trip up on the London Eye was for us folks who do not like heights! Like you, the views might be more compelling than my worry! Looking forward to more!
Aug 22nd, 2011, 01:06 PM
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So far, so good. We are planning tea at the Orangerie. Glad you enjoyed it.
Our Tower schedule is a little different from yours. Our tix to The Keyes Ceremony is one night, and our planned tour is the next morning. Lots of tube rides, right?
I am completely ruling out any rain when we are there! I have too much planned to deal with rain. I have done a lot of reading about the history of the monarchy, and will look for the lost princes in the Tower, and cannot wait to see Hampton Court.
Our Tower schedule is a little different from yours. Our tix to The Keyes Ceremony is one night, and our planned tour is the next morning. Lots of tube rides, right?
I am completely ruling out any rain when we are there! I have too much planned to deal with rain. I have done a lot of reading about the history of the monarchy, and will look for the lost princes in the Tower, and cannot wait to see Hampton Court.
Aug 23rd, 2011, 06:10 PM
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Ksbeem, really enjoying your report. You must be very resourceful to muster three generations on all of these jaunts. You obviously did a great deal of preparation for your trip to Stonehenge and Salisbury. I went to Salisbury in July. Shame of me – I did not realize that there was a copy of the Magna Carta in the museum there. Oh, well!
Loved the cathedral too. Did you notice those statutes/mannequins/ colorful figures of modern day pilgrims scattered about the building? Really brings the experience of the modern day pilgrim into such a sacred place.
Will continue to follow….
Loved the cathedral too. Did you notice those statutes/mannequins/ colorful figures of modern day pilgrims scattered about the building? Really brings the experience of the modern day pilgrim into such a sacred place.
Will continue to follow….
Aug 27th, 2011, 05:03 PM
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I am following your report with enthusiasm. Can't wait to hear about Hampton Court Palace.
One of our favorites was Hampton Court Palace. We caught the live kitchen demonstrations and son loved being able to light the tinder box and turn the meat on the spigot. Not to mention the fabulous gardens. We never got to see a skit or little show but we did see the actors in costume wandering about the grounds a few times.
We also thought both cafeterias--the one at the Tower of London and the one at Hampton Court were rather good and offered healthy options.
One of our favorites was Hampton Court Palace. We caught the live kitchen demonstrations and son loved being able to light the tinder box and turn the meat on the spigot. Not to mention the fabulous gardens. We never got to see a skit or little show but we did see the actors in costume wandering about the grounds a few times.
We also thought both cafeterias--the one at the Tower of London and the one at Hampton Court were rather good and offered healthy options.
Aug 28th, 2011, 08:15 PM
#37
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Thanks, guys. I am writing when I can!
So sorry for the long delay. Life just got really busy! But I’m back…
On Friday, we slept in a little before heading to the Green Park Tube station to meet our Royal Westminster London Walks guide (www.walks.com.) Our guide was Brian.
***Here I will plug London Walks. Thanks to this forum, we discovered London Walks. The Royal Westminster tour was especially recommended as a great way to see not only the changing of the guard at Buckingham Palace but also Westminster Abbey.
There are scads of walks, one for every appetite. They’re the best buy – 8 pounds for adults, 6 pounds for seniors and students, with children under 15 free with their parents’ paid admission. Our group had two senior citizens and one student – me, a graduate student – and three children 15 and under. One caveat: certain walks have a tariff to get into various sites, like Westminster Abbey, Stonehenge, etc. So figure that in if you’re planning one of those tours. It’s a little more, but still a great deal.*****
OK, so we followed Brian quickly across Green Park. He pointed out Spencer House and the homes of other notables along the way and explained how the park came to be. We cut across the park to the Mall. The crowds were thick. It was a nice day with a threat of rain. Brian warned us that if the weather turned bad, they wouldn’t have all the pomp and circumstance. We cross the Mall and waited near the corner with the Birdcage Walk. Soon we heard the drums and saw the horses. The festivities were starting! After we watched the incoming Irish Guard, we sped across St. James’s park to see the Welsh guards and their band marching toward the palace for their ceremonial relief of duties.
So that was that. We starting walking down Birdcage Walk as we meandered toward Westminster Abbey. We cut up to Queen Anne’s gate, where Brian pointed out some interesting architecture and the purported home of one Gordon Sumner – Sting! I snapped a photo.
We walked by pubs and learned what their signs mean. We learned where the term “loo” comes from. We learned lots of interesting tidbits and saw many enchanting nooks and crannies.
Soon we came upon Westminster Abbey. Here’s the coolest part of the tour: We didn’t have to stand in line to get in! We went behind the abbey and waited for someone to let us in, where Brian gave us a guided tour, pointing out tombs, explaining the King Edward chair, showing us Edward the Confessor’s tomb, taking us to the Henry VII chapel and the Order of the Bath crests. Sure, we could have stood in line and toured the abbey on our own, but it was much more meaningful with a guide. After watching the royal wedding in April, my kids paid special attention in the abbey.
After our tour, we headed toward Parliament, where we turned left and headed toward Trafalgar Square. Our target: St. Martin-in-the-Fields church, where we planned to eat lunch at the Café in the Crypt (http://www2.stmartin-in-the-fields.o...2010/cafe.html). By this time, we were tired and needing a snack. But the weather was grand, and we enjoyed seeing everything on the way. On the map, the walk looked shorter than it was, and we missed the free lunchtime concert in the church, but later we were able to listen as a wonderful string ensemble rehearsed for an evening concert.
The café was great. It’s a beautiful space, and the food was very good. Again, as at the Tower, there was something for everyone here, and it was loud and noisy, always a good atmosphere if you’ve got kids!
It's late...I will finish Friday tomorrow and hopefully start Saturday...
Thanks for reading!
So sorry for the long delay. Life just got really busy! But I’m back…
On Friday, we slept in a little before heading to the Green Park Tube station to meet our Royal Westminster London Walks guide (www.walks.com.) Our guide was Brian.
***Here I will plug London Walks. Thanks to this forum, we discovered London Walks. The Royal Westminster tour was especially recommended as a great way to see not only the changing of the guard at Buckingham Palace but also Westminster Abbey.
There are scads of walks, one for every appetite. They’re the best buy – 8 pounds for adults, 6 pounds for seniors and students, with children under 15 free with their parents’ paid admission. Our group had two senior citizens and one student – me, a graduate student – and three children 15 and under. One caveat: certain walks have a tariff to get into various sites, like Westminster Abbey, Stonehenge, etc. So figure that in if you’re planning one of those tours. It’s a little more, but still a great deal.*****
OK, so we followed Brian quickly across Green Park. He pointed out Spencer House and the homes of other notables along the way and explained how the park came to be. We cut across the park to the Mall. The crowds were thick. It was a nice day with a threat of rain. Brian warned us that if the weather turned bad, they wouldn’t have all the pomp and circumstance. We cross the Mall and waited near the corner with the Birdcage Walk. Soon we heard the drums and saw the horses. The festivities were starting! After we watched the incoming Irish Guard, we sped across St. James’s park to see the Welsh guards and their band marching toward the palace for their ceremonial relief of duties.
So that was that. We starting walking down Birdcage Walk as we meandered toward Westminster Abbey. We cut up to Queen Anne’s gate, where Brian pointed out some interesting architecture and the purported home of one Gordon Sumner – Sting! I snapped a photo.
We walked by pubs and learned what their signs mean. We learned where the term “loo” comes from. We learned lots of interesting tidbits and saw many enchanting nooks and crannies.
Soon we came upon Westminster Abbey. Here’s the coolest part of the tour: We didn’t have to stand in line to get in! We went behind the abbey and waited for someone to let us in, where Brian gave us a guided tour, pointing out tombs, explaining the King Edward chair, showing us Edward the Confessor’s tomb, taking us to the Henry VII chapel and the Order of the Bath crests. Sure, we could have stood in line and toured the abbey on our own, but it was much more meaningful with a guide. After watching the royal wedding in April, my kids paid special attention in the abbey.
After our tour, we headed toward Parliament, where we turned left and headed toward Trafalgar Square. Our target: St. Martin-in-the-Fields church, where we planned to eat lunch at the Café in the Crypt (http://www2.stmartin-in-the-fields.o...2010/cafe.html). By this time, we were tired and needing a snack. But the weather was grand, and we enjoyed seeing everything on the way. On the map, the walk looked shorter than it was, and we missed the free lunchtime concert in the church, but later we were able to listen as a wonderful string ensemble rehearsed for an evening concert.
The café was great. It’s a beautiful space, and the food was very good. Again, as at the Tower, there was something for everyone here, and it was loud and noisy, always a good atmosphere if you’ve got kids!
It's late...I will finish Friday tomorrow and hopefully start Saturday...
Thanks for reading!
Aug 29th, 2011, 05:38 PM
#38
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Hi Ksbeem,
Continuing to enjoy your report. I guess LONDON WALKS lives up to its reputation, eh? Isn't the Abbey fabulous? Glad the kids enjoyed it too.
Just spent five days near Trafalgar Square - STRAND PALACE HOTEL, just a few minutes walk from St. Martin's. Unfortunately, I did not know about the great restaurant you described. Just checked the menue and prices - very reasonable. Oh well, next time...
Continuing to enjoy your report. I guess LONDON WALKS lives up to its reputation, eh? Isn't the Abbey fabulous? Glad the kids enjoyed it too.
Just spent five days near Trafalgar Square - STRAND PALACE HOTEL, just a few minutes walk from St. Martin's. Unfortunately, I did not know about the great restaurant you described. Just checked the menue and prices - very reasonable. Oh well, next time...
Aug 30th, 2011, 08:58 PM
#39
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Hi! ksbeem:
I was so intrigued by the name of St Martin in the Fields Church & your dining/musical experience there, I had to find out more about it! Hopefully, the reasonably-priced evening concerts for next year will be as wonderful as the ones currently listed on its website! The brass rubbing centre also sounds like fun! I'm thinking that a set of rubbings might make a lovely souvenir!
Can't wait to hear more!
I was so intrigued by the name of St Martin in the Fields Church & your dining/musical experience there, I had to find out more about it! Hopefully, the reasonably-priced evening concerts for next year will be as wonderful as the ones currently listed on its website! The brass rubbing centre also sounds like fun! I'm thinking that a set of rubbings might make a lovely souvenir!
Can't wait to hear more!
Sep 6th, 2011, 07:15 PM
#40
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Here's some more -- almost finished!!
So after lunch, we wandered around the church for a bit. Just outside the café is a spot where you can pay a fee and make a brass rubbing. Or you can buy a rubbing already made. I couldn’t interest my kids in this, but it looked really fun. There’s a nice gift shop, too. If you’re a fan of classical music, then you know of Neville Marriner and the Academy of St.-Martin-in-the-Fields. I bought a couple CDs for my parents.
Initially, we had hoped to make it to the church in time for the free lunchtime concert. This day featured a pianist. But we got there too late. However, after lunch, we went into the beautiful sanctuary and listened for a while as the London Musical Arts ensemble practiced Vivaldi, which they were to perform that evening. With the sunlight coming through the gorgeous windows, it was sublime. This is not just an historic church; it’s an active congregation that ministers particularly to the homeless as well as London’s Chinese community (with services in Cantonese at times.) It’s a lovely, lovely place and a great spot to catch your breath and practice a little mindfulness.
Soon, we were rejuvenated enough to exit into Trafalgar Square. It was full of folks, as usual. We saw the Olympic clock as we made our way around the Square, moving toward Horse Guards Road. We wanted to see a little different scenery as we walked toward the Churchill War Rooms (http://cwr.iwm.org.uk/). Here, there was a minor mutiny as the mother-in-law and the two teens decried they had to go find a souvenir shop! So they took off, and my hubs, DS8, father-in-law and I put our lovely 2-for-1 coupons to work again and went into the bunker.
This might have been my favorite place. It was just fascinating to see the spot where Churchill holed up during the Blitz and directed operations. But of particular fascination to me was the Churchill museum inside the war rooms. There’s a huge interactive electronic timeline, where you can select a month, day and year, and find out what was going on either in the world or Churchill’s life or at the intersection of the two. We live a stone’s throw away from the Harry S Truman Presidential Library and Museum, so we know well the American version of events. Well, I clicked on the date March 5, 1946. That’s the date Churchill delivered a speech at Westminster College in Fulton, Mo., in which he used the term “iron curtain” to describe the Soviet Union and its influence. I never knew that while President Truman previewed this speech and accompanied Churchill to give his address, the president distanced himself from Churchill when his predictions caused his critics to call him a warmonger. It’s eye-opening to see history from another point of view.
We spent at least two hours in the museum. When we left, we met the rest of our group outside. We found the nearest tube station and returned to our flat. We freshened up before dinner. By this time, we were in the mood for a good juicy hamburger. Just down on Kensington High Street we found a location of the chain Byron Burgers (http://www.byronhamburgers.com/locations/). We really enjoyed it. The burgers were delish, and they have a nice selection of craft beers. It was noisy, and we had a bit of a wait, but it was worth it. Great end to another great day!
Saturday: We slept in a bit on Saturday before heading a couple blocks from our flat to Portobello Road and the famous street market. My mother-in-law was in heaven. She literally perused every single antique booth, I kid you not, and went into most stores. My boys and husband lasted about five minutes before they took off in search of something they could stand. They landed at a Caffe Nero (http://www.caffenero.com/StoreLocato...ortobello+road). They hung out until we made our way to the store. On the way, my daughter and I bought a handmade bag for my niece’s 16th birthday and found some kitschy London shirts.
The hubs and the boys, meanwhile, checked out some shoe stores near the coffee shop. The sales were on, and the prices good. The kids ended up picking up some back-to-school shoe bargains while we were there. I popped into a Cath Kidston store (http://www.cathkidston.co.uk/) and took advantage of a sale, too. Then we each bought some great food from the street vendors. I had a falafel for about 2.5 pounds. It was huge – and yummy.
Pretty soon, the kids were tired and itching to go back and rest. But my mother-in-law was the Energizer Bunny! So we left the in-laws there and headed back. They came home around 3:30 p.m., and the MIL was raring to go to Kensington High Street. When shopping is on the line, the woman can move pretty darn fast. I could barely keep up! She and the teens wanted to go to H+M, because we don’t have one in Kansas City. I wanted to pop into the Marks and Spencer, just to see what it was like. We found some more bargains and I discovered that my DS15 is quite the clothes horse.
Eventually, we made our way back up Kensington Church Street to our flat. My husband and father-in-law had stayed home, and the hubs had gone for another fun in Kensington Gardens. I popped over the Pizza Express (http://www.pizzaexpress.com/) on Notting Hill Gate and picked up some take-away pizzas and salads and brought them back to the flat.
After dinner, five of us headed to the St. Paul Tube Station for another London walk. This one was a ghost walk! DS8 was so excited. I had shown him a preview of Ghosts of the Old City at http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=n9SZlcwQeNo. You can also get to it at www.walks.com. Our guide for the Saturday night jaunt was Shaughan, who’s featured in that YouTube video.
We got there a little early, and I worried that we had come up the wrong exit. So I left everyone and headed across the street to check. No one there. So I ran back to the entrance where I’d left the family, and I told my father-in-law I couldn’t find anyone. And then I saw him coming to me, sickly white face, blackened eyes, holocaust cloak. My son saw him, too. “Wow,” he said. Indeed.
We toured the back streets of old London, with Shaughan detailing the gory details and possible ghostly sightings of many obscure buildings. His timing is impeccable. The tour was a delight – everyone from DS8 to my father-in-law pronounced it a success. And Shaughan was gracious enough to pose for several photos, making appropriately creepy faces on cue.
I love those London Walks!
So after lunch, we wandered around the church for a bit. Just outside the café is a spot where you can pay a fee and make a brass rubbing. Or you can buy a rubbing already made. I couldn’t interest my kids in this, but it looked really fun. There’s a nice gift shop, too. If you’re a fan of classical music, then you know of Neville Marriner and the Academy of St.-Martin-in-the-Fields. I bought a couple CDs for my parents.
Initially, we had hoped to make it to the church in time for the free lunchtime concert. This day featured a pianist. But we got there too late. However, after lunch, we went into the beautiful sanctuary and listened for a while as the London Musical Arts ensemble practiced Vivaldi, which they were to perform that evening. With the sunlight coming through the gorgeous windows, it was sublime. This is not just an historic church; it’s an active congregation that ministers particularly to the homeless as well as London’s Chinese community (with services in Cantonese at times.) It’s a lovely, lovely place and a great spot to catch your breath and practice a little mindfulness.
Soon, we were rejuvenated enough to exit into Trafalgar Square. It was full of folks, as usual. We saw the Olympic clock as we made our way around the Square, moving toward Horse Guards Road. We wanted to see a little different scenery as we walked toward the Churchill War Rooms (http://cwr.iwm.org.uk/). Here, there was a minor mutiny as the mother-in-law and the two teens decried they had to go find a souvenir shop! So they took off, and my hubs, DS8, father-in-law and I put our lovely 2-for-1 coupons to work again and went into the bunker.
This might have been my favorite place. It was just fascinating to see the spot where Churchill holed up during the Blitz and directed operations. But of particular fascination to me was the Churchill museum inside the war rooms. There’s a huge interactive electronic timeline, where you can select a month, day and year, and find out what was going on either in the world or Churchill’s life or at the intersection of the two. We live a stone’s throw away from the Harry S Truman Presidential Library and Museum, so we know well the American version of events. Well, I clicked on the date March 5, 1946. That’s the date Churchill delivered a speech at Westminster College in Fulton, Mo., in which he used the term “iron curtain” to describe the Soviet Union and its influence. I never knew that while President Truman previewed this speech and accompanied Churchill to give his address, the president distanced himself from Churchill when his predictions caused his critics to call him a warmonger. It’s eye-opening to see history from another point of view.
We spent at least two hours in the museum. When we left, we met the rest of our group outside. We found the nearest tube station and returned to our flat. We freshened up before dinner. By this time, we were in the mood for a good juicy hamburger. Just down on Kensington High Street we found a location of the chain Byron Burgers (http://www.byronhamburgers.com/locations/). We really enjoyed it. The burgers were delish, and they have a nice selection of craft beers. It was noisy, and we had a bit of a wait, but it was worth it. Great end to another great day!
Saturday: We slept in a bit on Saturday before heading a couple blocks from our flat to Portobello Road and the famous street market. My mother-in-law was in heaven. She literally perused every single antique booth, I kid you not, and went into most stores. My boys and husband lasted about five minutes before they took off in search of something they could stand. They landed at a Caffe Nero (http://www.caffenero.com/StoreLocato...ortobello+road). They hung out until we made our way to the store. On the way, my daughter and I bought a handmade bag for my niece’s 16th birthday and found some kitschy London shirts.
The hubs and the boys, meanwhile, checked out some shoe stores near the coffee shop. The sales were on, and the prices good. The kids ended up picking up some back-to-school shoe bargains while we were there. I popped into a Cath Kidston store (http://www.cathkidston.co.uk/) and took advantage of a sale, too. Then we each bought some great food from the street vendors. I had a falafel for about 2.5 pounds. It was huge – and yummy.
Pretty soon, the kids were tired and itching to go back and rest. But my mother-in-law was the Energizer Bunny! So we left the in-laws there and headed back. They came home around 3:30 p.m., and the MIL was raring to go to Kensington High Street. When shopping is on the line, the woman can move pretty darn fast. I could barely keep up! She and the teens wanted to go to H+M, because we don’t have one in Kansas City. I wanted to pop into the Marks and Spencer, just to see what it was like. We found some more bargains and I discovered that my DS15 is quite the clothes horse.
Eventually, we made our way back up Kensington Church Street to our flat. My husband and father-in-law had stayed home, and the hubs had gone for another fun in Kensington Gardens. I popped over the Pizza Express (http://www.pizzaexpress.com/) on Notting Hill Gate and picked up some take-away pizzas and salads and brought them back to the flat.
After dinner, five of us headed to the St. Paul Tube Station for another London walk. This one was a ghost walk! DS8 was so excited. I had shown him a preview of Ghosts of the Old City at http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=n9SZlcwQeNo. You can also get to it at www.walks.com. Our guide for the Saturday night jaunt was Shaughan, who’s featured in that YouTube video.
We got there a little early, and I worried that we had come up the wrong exit. So I left everyone and headed across the street to check. No one there. So I ran back to the entrance where I’d left the family, and I told my father-in-law I couldn’t find anyone. And then I saw him coming to me, sickly white face, blackened eyes, holocaust cloak. My son saw him, too. “Wow,” he said. Indeed.
We toured the back streets of old London, with Shaughan detailing the gory details and possible ghostly sightings of many obscure buildings. His timing is impeccable. The tour was a delight – everyone from DS8 to my father-in-law pronounced it a success. And Shaughan was gracious enough to pose for several photos, making appropriately creepy faces on cue.
I love those London Walks!
