New & Improved Thread: An Injured American In Paris: Maitaitom's Miracle Christmas Trip
Jan 24th, 2007, 10:59 AM
#22
Original Poster
<b> DAY SIX: THE INFAMOUS RUE CLER, A GRAND EXHIBITION, OUR TAKE ON THE LILLIES, WALK LIKE AN EGYPTIAN AND FINALLY FLORIMOND </b>
We got a pretty early start on the day, and the sky was still blue on Saturday morning, but that would change as the day progressed.
We headed in the direction of the Hotel des Invalides and Napoleon’s Tomb. I told Tracy that a few days ago I felt that I should be staying at the Hotel of Invalids. You’d think she would get used to my jokes after all these years.
After seeing Napoleon’s coffin within a coffin within a coffin, etc., we started toward that Fodor’s point of contention street, The Rue Cler. We detoured a couple of blocks down the av de la Motte-Picquet to Le Florimond, a restaurant I have always wanted to go to, but for some reason had not.
Although early in the morning, the restaurant door was open, so I popped in was fortunate enough to get reservations at 9:15 that evening (fortunate because this was the last night they would be open for a couple of weeks due to the holidays).
Then it was on to the Rue Cler, a street that has gained the disdain of some, many of who also disdain the man who has sent a plethora of Americans there, that R.S. character.
Well gang, we like the rue Cler and have liked it since the first time we visited about 9 years ago. It’s a nice little walking street with cute shops and restaurants, some markets and a damned good patissiere. Since the last time we visited, a really cool Italian deli has opened up, and the line was very long. For such a charming little street it certainly conjures up a lot of emotion on the board, but for us the only emotion was peaceful.
After downing our morning croissants and coffee, we walked across the Seine to the Grand Palais, a building that I have taken many pictures of, but had never gone in. It had been closed for more than a decade until last year, so finally we got our chance to see the inside of the building.
There was an exhibition of some undersea treasures from Egypt on display at the Grand Palais, but truthfully I was more interested in the architecture of the building. After seeing as many underwater treasures as a couple could see on one viewing (but not as many Egyptian artifacts as you will read later), Tracy and I exited and walked to the Champs Elysées, the avenue we don’t particularly care for, but since we were in a walking mood, we said, “Why not? Maybe we can find an elusive baby gift we were looking for.”
As I stopped to take a picture of Tracy in a little area with Christmas trees and fake snow, our friend the sun bid us au revoir. Wind, clouds and a drop in temperature replaced our sunny day experience, and I don’t think we really saw the sun again the entire trip.
After walking up to (but not up) the Arc de Triomphe, and as the temperature seemed to turn colder and colder, it was time for lunch. We chose the brassiere, L’Alsace (I’m pretty sure that’s the correct name).
We had some onion soup, a nice steak in a béarnaise sauce and pommes frites. It was funny, however, because Tracy’s onion soup came with the cheese already in the soup, while it seemed the French family next to us put their own cheese into their onion soup. Perhaps one of you French food experts could explain that little detail to us.
Another wardrobe malfunction nearly cost me dearly as we were to leave. In my futile attempt to be a smooth dresser while buttoning my coat and putting my gloves on, I had forgotten that my camera bag (with my nice camera in it) was still underneath the table. I was so happy I hadn’t knocked any dishes off the table while getting ready to go outside, I had blanked out on the camera.
Fortunately, the alert server found the bag and said, “Look, I now have a brand new camera.” He had a big smile, handed me the bag and disaster was averted. I didn’t feel as badly for over tipping at that point.
It was early afternoon, but it was getting dark fast. Our next stop was Musée l’Orangerie and Monet’s famous Water Lilies. There was a line to get in, but the old museum pass let me bypass that line to go through security and then the next line to buy tickets.
DIGRESSION: Usually we get our money’s worth by purchasing the Museum Pass, no matter how many days we buy it for. On this trip, we probably didn’t quite recoup all the money we spent on them, but my favorite part of having one is just watching the faces of people in a long line as we scoot by them through the door and out of sight. Yes, there is an evil side of maitaitom.
Speaking of evil, many of you might think me even more evil after I give you our short review of the Water Lilies, contained in two rooms at the museum. I will preface this by saying I like a lot of Monet’s paintings. We really did not care at all for the Water Lilies. Maybe it was because it was so much in one contained area or maybe the expectations were so high, but the whole thing fell flat for me. It sort of looked like a big blob.
There are more paintings downstairs, and we didn’t really like those exhibits either. Of course, we aren’t art critics nor do we play ones on television, so I think you should go and see for yourself.
After a visit to a bookstore across from L’Orangerie, we walked down to the Louvre. Unfortunately there were no people to taunt with our museum card, so in we went.
The Mona Lisa had never been one of my favorite paintings (although I didn’t dislike it), but after talking with Michael the day before, I wanted to see it in its “new” place in the Louvre.
Michael had said the paintings in the room with “Mona” were better complements than the ones where she had been before, and I agreed. We saw some of the other greatest hits, too.
I did see my favorite Louvre painting, The Coronation of Napoleon, by Jacques-Louis David. Actually, I liked many of his paintings and have a goal to learn more about the artist.
After walking around for a while, both Tracy and I (well, really our legs) decided it was time to head back to the hotel.
It was at this point that Tracy and I found the Twilight Zone of the Louvre. She thought she had found a sign for the exit, but instead, there’s the signpost up ahead, we had been transported to “The Egyptian Zone.” I swear I saw Rod Serling’s face behind an Egyptian mask.
For the next several hours (ok, it wasn’t that long, but it seemed like it), we saw more sarcophagi than King Tut’s relatives. At one point, I felt like putting on a pith helmet and excavating for ruins. Now I know why they put a pyramid over the damned thing. Somehow we finally got out, and I was just happy it was still Saturday.
We then bought some baby gifts at the overpriced Louvre ‘R Us store and proceeded back to the hotel.
Since we didn’t have reservations until 9:15 p.m., and it was still relatively early, what can two healthy (relatively anyway) Americans do to pass the time? Umm, we’ll skip that part, but the champagne that followed was delicious.
Finally, it was time to go to Le Florimond, which has been mentioned on this and other travel boards frequently. It is quite small, and since we got there a little early (I call it American early dinner-interruptus), we had to wait for a few minutes in a little space between the door and a curtain, which had been put up to keep the cold wind out when the door opens. I asked Tracy if there would be applause when the curtain opened, and she pretended to be French.
We walked in moments later and were seated next to the small bar (coincidence, I think not). Florimond is the type of place that screams “charming little French bistro.” Tracy started with some champagne while I had their special drink (now dubbed a Florimond in their honor), which has fresh squeezed orange juice, vodka and Grand Marnier.
When we ordered, I thought our server looked familiar, and sure enough, it was Ray Romano. I was glad to see he had a job after “Everyone Loves Raymond.” Of course, it wasn’t really him, but he looked like him and was actually a little bit funnier than Ray.
Dinner was good…especially mine. Lobster ravioli was followed by the face-a-face, which was a delicious steak and a beef stew with scalloped potatoes (beef, it’s what’s for dinner). Tracy said her cabbage dish (grandma’s recipe, I believe), wasn’t the greatest, but she still loved the restaurant thanks to the ravioli dish and her new favorite ice cream for dessert.
The whole dinner was topped off with a chocolate pastry-type thing (sorry, I’m not a food critic) with dark chocolate ice cream and a mandarin sauce. Tracy had the three glacés of vanilla, dark chocolate and her new favorite, caramel. This is a place we will definitely return to on our next visit, and I would recommend it wholeheartedly.
PLEA: If you go in the near future, there is a wine on the menu that was recommended by Ray (well, that’s what I call him). It was a red wine called Chateau “I Forgot Like A Moron What It Is Called.” It was only 20 euros. We loved it, but, of course, forgot the name on the way back to the hotel and the restaurant was closed for the rest of time in Paris. If you happen to be there, a heads up would be greatly appreciated.
When we got back to our hotel, it was after midnight, and we realized it was Christmas Eve. There were no presents to wrap, no pie to bake to bring to my sister’s house and no decision on who was to be the designated driver. I was in total vacation mode.
<b> COMING UP: DAY SEVEN – CHRISTMAS EVE – PARIS STYLE </b>
We got a pretty early start on the day, and the sky was still blue on Saturday morning, but that would change as the day progressed.
We headed in the direction of the Hotel des Invalides and Napoleon’s Tomb. I told Tracy that a few days ago I felt that I should be staying at the Hotel of Invalids. You’d think she would get used to my jokes after all these years.
After seeing Napoleon’s coffin within a coffin within a coffin, etc., we started toward that Fodor’s point of contention street, The Rue Cler. We detoured a couple of blocks down the av de la Motte-Picquet to Le Florimond, a restaurant I have always wanted to go to, but for some reason had not.
Although early in the morning, the restaurant door was open, so I popped in was fortunate enough to get reservations at 9:15 that evening (fortunate because this was the last night they would be open for a couple of weeks due to the holidays).
Then it was on to the Rue Cler, a street that has gained the disdain of some, many of who also disdain the man who has sent a plethora of Americans there, that R.S. character.
Well gang, we like the rue Cler and have liked it since the first time we visited about 9 years ago. It’s a nice little walking street with cute shops and restaurants, some markets and a damned good patissiere. Since the last time we visited, a really cool Italian deli has opened up, and the line was very long. For such a charming little street it certainly conjures up a lot of emotion on the board, but for us the only emotion was peaceful.
After downing our morning croissants and coffee, we walked across the Seine to the Grand Palais, a building that I have taken many pictures of, but had never gone in. It had been closed for more than a decade until last year, so finally we got our chance to see the inside of the building.
There was an exhibition of some undersea treasures from Egypt on display at the Grand Palais, but truthfully I was more interested in the architecture of the building. After seeing as many underwater treasures as a couple could see on one viewing (but not as many Egyptian artifacts as you will read later), Tracy and I exited and walked to the Champs Elysées, the avenue we don’t particularly care for, but since we were in a walking mood, we said, “Why not? Maybe we can find an elusive baby gift we were looking for.”
As I stopped to take a picture of Tracy in a little area with Christmas trees and fake snow, our friend the sun bid us au revoir. Wind, clouds and a drop in temperature replaced our sunny day experience, and I don’t think we really saw the sun again the entire trip.
After walking up to (but not up) the Arc de Triomphe, and as the temperature seemed to turn colder and colder, it was time for lunch. We chose the brassiere, L’Alsace (I’m pretty sure that’s the correct name).
We had some onion soup, a nice steak in a béarnaise sauce and pommes frites. It was funny, however, because Tracy’s onion soup came with the cheese already in the soup, while it seemed the French family next to us put their own cheese into their onion soup. Perhaps one of you French food experts could explain that little detail to us.
Another wardrobe malfunction nearly cost me dearly as we were to leave. In my futile attempt to be a smooth dresser while buttoning my coat and putting my gloves on, I had forgotten that my camera bag (with my nice camera in it) was still underneath the table. I was so happy I hadn’t knocked any dishes off the table while getting ready to go outside, I had blanked out on the camera.
Fortunately, the alert server found the bag and said, “Look, I now have a brand new camera.” He had a big smile, handed me the bag and disaster was averted. I didn’t feel as badly for over tipping at that point.
It was early afternoon, but it was getting dark fast. Our next stop was Musée l’Orangerie and Monet’s famous Water Lilies. There was a line to get in, but the old museum pass let me bypass that line to go through security and then the next line to buy tickets.
DIGRESSION: Usually we get our money’s worth by purchasing the Museum Pass, no matter how many days we buy it for. On this trip, we probably didn’t quite recoup all the money we spent on them, but my favorite part of having one is just watching the faces of people in a long line as we scoot by them through the door and out of sight. Yes, there is an evil side of maitaitom.
Speaking of evil, many of you might think me even more evil after I give you our short review of the Water Lilies, contained in two rooms at the museum. I will preface this by saying I like a lot of Monet’s paintings. We really did not care at all for the Water Lilies. Maybe it was because it was so much in one contained area or maybe the expectations were so high, but the whole thing fell flat for me. It sort of looked like a big blob.
There are more paintings downstairs, and we didn’t really like those exhibits either. Of course, we aren’t art critics nor do we play ones on television, so I think you should go and see for yourself.
After a visit to a bookstore across from L’Orangerie, we walked down to the Louvre. Unfortunately there were no people to taunt with our museum card, so in we went.
The Mona Lisa had never been one of my favorite paintings (although I didn’t dislike it), but after talking with Michael the day before, I wanted to see it in its “new” place in the Louvre.
Michael had said the paintings in the room with “Mona” were better complements than the ones where she had been before, and I agreed. We saw some of the other greatest hits, too.
I did see my favorite Louvre painting, The Coronation of Napoleon, by Jacques-Louis David. Actually, I liked many of his paintings and have a goal to learn more about the artist.
After walking around for a while, both Tracy and I (well, really our legs) decided it was time to head back to the hotel.
It was at this point that Tracy and I found the Twilight Zone of the Louvre. She thought she had found a sign for the exit, but instead, there’s the signpost up ahead, we had been transported to “The Egyptian Zone.” I swear I saw Rod Serling’s face behind an Egyptian mask.
For the next several hours (ok, it wasn’t that long, but it seemed like it), we saw more sarcophagi than King Tut’s relatives. At one point, I felt like putting on a pith helmet and excavating for ruins. Now I know why they put a pyramid over the damned thing. Somehow we finally got out, and I was just happy it was still Saturday.
We then bought some baby gifts at the overpriced Louvre ‘R Us store and proceeded back to the hotel.
Since we didn’t have reservations until 9:15 p.m., and it was still relatively early, what can two healthy (relatively anyway) Americans do to pass the time? Umm, we’ll skip that part, but the champagne that followed was delicious.
Finally, it was time to go to Le Florimond, which has been mentioned on this and other travel boards frequently. It is quite small, and since we got there a little early (I call it American early dinner-interruptus), we had to wait for a few minutes in a little space between the door and a curtain, which had been put up to keep the cold wind out when the door opens. I asked Tracy if there would be applause when the curtain opened, and she pretended to be French.
We walked in moments later and were seated next to the small bar (coincidence, I think not). Florimond is the type of place that screams “charming little French bistro.” Tracy started with some champagne while I had their special drink (now dubbed a Florimond in their honor), which has fresh squeezed orange juice, vodka and Grand Marnier.
When we ordered, I thought our server looked familiar, and sure enough, it was Ray Romano. I was glad to see he had a job after “Everyone Loves Raymond.” Of course, it wasn’t really him, but he looked like him and was actually a little bit funnier than Ray.
Dinner was good…especially mine. Lobster ravioli was followed by the face-a-face, which was a delicious steak and a beef stew with scalloped potatoes (beef, it’s what’s for dinner). Tracy said her cabbage dish (grandma’s recipe, I believe), wasn’t the greatest, but she still loved the restaurant thanks to the ravioli dish and her new favorite ice cream for dessert.
The whole dinner was topped off with a chocolate pastry-type thing (sorry, I’m not a food critic) with dark chocolate ice cream and a mandarin sauce. Tracy had the three glacés of vanilla, dark chocolate and her new favorite, caramel. This is a place we will definitely return to on our next visit, and I would recommend it wholeheartedly.
PLEA: If you go in the near future, there is a wine on the menu that was recommended by Ray (well, that’s what I call him). It was a red wine called Chateau “I Forgot Like A Moron What It Is Called.” It was only 20 euros. We loved it, but, of course, forgot the name on the way back to the hotel and the restaurant was closed for the rest of time in Paris. If you happen to be there, a heads up would be greatly appreciated.
When we got back to our hotel, it was after midnight, and we realized it was Christmas Eve. There were no presents to wrap, no pie to bake to bring to my sister’s house and no decision on who was to be the designated driver. I was in total vacation mode.
<b> COMING UP: DAY SEVEN – CHRISTMAS EVE – PARIS STYLE </b>
Jan 24th, 2007, 11:24 AM
#25
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That is so funny about trying to find the exit for the Louvre. My friend and I had exactly that experience in Novmenber. We saw Sortie and we sorties and then came to a dead end and found and door and there we were back at the sarcophigus. So we tried it again with a one sortie and a dough-see-dough and there we were again. By then it was getting late so I was about to grab a pillow from textiles and just curl up in the sarcophigus for the night and try it again in the morning. At my age I would have blended in perfectly as just part of the scenery. As for the Water Lilies. Luckily, the Orangerie was NOT very croweded when we were there so I could sit on the benches and really take in the paintings. I think on days that the place is packed it will really be hard to truly appreciate them because one will have mobs of people walking between you and paintings. I always like to look at the painting up close at first because it just amazes me how a painter knows that all those funny little squiggles will actually take a shape and be so beautiful when viewed from afare.
Jan 24th, 2007, 01:11 PM
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Loved the blind guy story...or was he really blind? When we were getting on the metro in Paris, a guy behind me at the turnstile bumped into me and spilled a bit of his drink on my shoulder...WELL, I was well aware of that old trick. I whipped around and gave him a Look of Death....and it was actually a business man who had bumped into me and spilled a bit of his drink on my shoulder.
Jan 24th, 2007, 01:51 PM
#29
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Oh, Tom, I am reading your report feeling your pain - almost literally. For a week right before the flight I was not sure if my vacation will happen or not. It's such a difficult decision to make!
I'm seriously thinking now of getting cancellation insurances for all future trips, do you? I wonder how long my thought will last, a month? less then that?
I'm seriously thinking now of getting cancellation insurances for all future trips, do you? I wonder how long my thought will last, a month? less then that?
Jan 24th, 2007, 02:49 PM
#30
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Many years ago we got lost while trying to exit the Louvre. Found ourselves in a "back office" environment. Restorers, etc. toiling away. Nobody paid any attention to us as we traipsed through. Forget how we finally got out. But, I wonder, if in these days of high security such a mistake is still possible.
Jan 25th, 2007, 03:40 AM
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On the soup and cheese question: are you sure your neighbors had ognion soup? Generally that is served with the cheese melted on it already. Fish soup, however, comes with grated cheese to sprinkle on top.
Jan 25th, 2007, 07:45 AM
#36
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You write so wonderfully-just like being there!
The Monet Museum actually is a much better presentation of the water lillies-even though it is a large room of multiples, they are mostly gorgeous.
And the knee? How goes it?
By the way, the magic cream I think you got in France IS available in the US (are you in the US?)--but you have to go to certain pharmacies that make their own compounds. I have no idea what's in it, but it works great-great-great! You'll need a scrip from your doctor.
The Monet Museum actually is a much better presentation of the water lillies-even though it is a large room of multiples, they are mostly gorgeous.
And the knee? How goes it?
By the way, the magic cream I think you got in France IS available in the US (are you in the US?)--but you have to go to certain pharmacies that make their own compounds. I have no idea what's in it, but it works great-great-great! You'll need a scrip from your doctor.
Jan 25th, 2007, 12:24 PM
#39
Original Poster
Thanks. Hi, more late this afternoon (after work).
Glad to know I'm not alone in getting lost with my Egyptian friends at the Louvre.
Louie, thanks for clearing up the soup issue.
TRSW - My next trip could be an all timer. Four of my middle-aged buddies and myself are traveling to Cooperstown in July to see the induction of Tony Gwynn in the Baseball Hall of Fame (yeah, I know Cal is going in, too, but we're Padre fans). We also have two nights in New York City.
We were too late to book a hotel in Cooperstown, so the five of us are staying in two RV's (stationary) at a campground near Oneonta, NY. If we live to tell about it, the adventure should make for an interesting report. The snoring alone will be heard throughout the greater United States.
Glad to know I'm not alone in getting lost with my Egyptian friends at the Louvre.
Louie, thanks for clearing up the soup issue.
TRSW - My next trip could be an all timer. Four of my middle-aged buddies and myself are traveling to Cooperstown in July to see the induction of Tony Gwynn in the Baseball Hall of Fame (yeah, I know Cal is going in, too, but we're Padre fans). We also have two nights in New York City.
We were too late to book a hotel in Cooperstown, so the five of us are staying in two RV's (stationary) at a campground near Oneonta, NY. If we live to tell about it, the adventure should make for an interesting report. The snoring alone will be heard throughout the greater United States.
Jan 25th, 2007, 12:35 PM
#40
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Interesting comment about the Lilies. Do you think they would have made more of an impression if they had been presented a little more coyly, say one by one, instead of thrown at the viewer en masse?
How about if you had been given a viewing as a prize for getting through all those sarcophagi in the Louvre?
And thanks again for reviving the report.
How about if you had been given a viewing as a prize for getting through all those sarcophagi in the Louvre?
And thanks again for reviving the report.
