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Need help planning a solo trip to Ireland, first visit

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Old Feb 6th, 2012 | 11:52 AM
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Need help planning a solo trip to Ireland, first visit

(I posted this in Europe, forgetting to tag it Ireland, so am re-posting it correctly. Thanks!)

I am comfortable traveling alone, and I do not want a group tour. In my initial research, I found the following Ireland by Rail plan, on Fodor's:

http://www.fodors.com/world/europe/i...nd-by-rail-17/

I guess I've never heard about the rail system in Ireland, so that's my first question.

Here is the abbreviated plan, and I would love your comments. I am thinking of going this May.

"Fly into: Limerick
Fly out of: Dublin
Total Duration: 10 days
Traveling Ireland by rail is one of the best ways to tour the country. There are no white-knuckle rides as you face large tour buses on narrow, winding roads (and not to mention the stress of driving on the left). You can just sit back, relax, and take in the brazenly scenic landscape while enjoying a picnic lunch on the train. Starting from Shannon, this itinerary hits some of the most popular sites in Ireland, from Limerick and Blarney Castle to the famed Ring of Kerry and Kilkenny, before ending your trip in Dublin."

Day One: LIMERICK
An Introduction to the Emerald Isle

The Hunt Museum features fine examples of Celtic and medieval treasures
Explore the Georgian House and Gardens, a meticulously restored mansion
Time travel back to the Middle Ages at Bunratty Castle and Folk Park

Day Two and Three: KILLARNEY
Lakes and Mountains Galore

Take in the magnificent lakes of Killarney, all set in the backdrop of towering mountains
Explore Muckross House, an excellent example of an Elizabethan-style manor
Pass through the narrow Gap of Dunloe for a glimpse of the lakes and purple mountains

Days Four and Five: RING OF KERRY
Ireland's Most Scenic Drive

The circular Ring of Kerry is Ireland's most popular drive—for good reason
To get some of the best views along the Ring—get out of your car and hike, walk, or cycle
Boat out to the spectacular Skellig Rocks, just off shore the Ring of Kerry

Days Six and Seven: CORK CITY
Irish Warmth and a Kiss

Ireland's second largest city is a spirited place, with a great pub culture and quirky cafes
No trip to Ireland would be complete without kissing the Blarney Stone
Kinsale, a picturesque port, is famed for its fine dining

Day Eight: KILKENNY CITY
Modern and Ancient Design

Kilkenny has been dubbed Ireland's Medieval City for its time-burnished buildings
Design aficionados will love to explore its myriad of art galleries
Explore Killkenny Castle, an unusual blend of Gothic and Victorian architecture

Days Nine and Ten: DUBLIN
Where the Written Word Comes Alive

Pay homage to Dublin's great literary history
Explore the elegant grounds of Trinity College
Soak up the city's famous Georgian architecture and its lively dining scene


Thanks so much!


PalenQ on Feb 6, 12 at 12:53pm
the rail system in Ireland is very limited to a very few main lines - that said they form an axis the tourist can use and then at the proverbial ends of the lines take buses just about anywhere. Buses are also often quicker on many routes where trains do not do in a direct line.

The main rail line is Dublin to Cork and Killarney and Trallee (jumping off point for the fantastic Dingle Peninsula, by mini bus.

so rail can be useful but it not up to European standards in providing comprehensive coverage to go anywhere - buses are are a crucial link - like if you want to go up the wild west coast, home of Gaelltach (sp?) or Gaellic speaking where Gaellic is often the daily language of many folks in the Dingle Peninsula and Cliffs of Mohair area - do not miss the west coast, the rugged gorgeous west cost from Dingle up to the Cliffs of Mohair and Galway - Galway then has good train service to Dublin.

The other good rail service links Dublin to Belfast in Northern Ireland - the so-called Peace Train and IMO do not neglect Northern Ireland and gems like the Giant's Causeway or even Belfast.

Possible good sources of Irish trains - www.seat61.com; www.ricksteves.com and www.budgeteuropetravel.com. There used to be an Irish Rambler Pass that was good for trains and many buses - contact the Ireland National Board for details if it still exists or ask locally at a bus or train station. Not sold in the U.S. to my knowledge.


Michel_Paris on Feb 6, 12 at 1:03pm
I would rent a car, It is IMHO the best way to see the country. Sure, some of the roads are narrow, but that is part of the experience. Stop when you want to, go where you want to. In Dublin, I would return the car, no need for it there.

The above tour seems to be cities only, you need to get out with the sheep

We started in Dublin and did a clockwise loop of the country, some good memories. Stayed mostly at B&Bs.



mariha2912 on Feb 6, 12 at 1:12pm
This itenerary is very fast paces, personaly I wouldn't enjoy that at all. Of course each to their own. Furthermore I don't quite get the Limerick reference... Bunratty and Folk park on my understanding are not on Limerick, which in general is a dull city. I guess it serves as a point to start early next morning towards Killarney?
2 days at Killarney don't do it justice at all. Cork city 2 days? Well depends on how much you want to take in.. Dublin only 2 days no way!



PeaceOut on Feb 6, 12 at 1:48pm
I definitely do not want to hire a car.

I appreciate your suggestions!

I guess I didn't flag this as a post about Ireland. Maybe I will re-do it that way. Follow me there?
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Old Feb 6th, 2012 | 11:58 AM
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Things for messy when you have two posts on same topic. No need to repost
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Old Feb 6th, 2012 | 12:16 PM
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As mentioned above, it's difficult to see Ireland properly by train. The car gives you the freedom of exploring that intriguing castle over that hill, or see what stone circle that brown sign is pointing at.

There's a great resource at www.irelandyes.com, Michele has been to Ireland over 50 times and has a great forum. I've gotten lots of great advice from her and her group.
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Old Feb 6th, 2012 | 12:18 PM
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Oh, and international flights from the US land in Belfast, Dublin or Shannon - not Limerick Shannon is the closest to Limerick.
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Old Feb 6th, 2012 | 12:31 PM
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I would answer this if I understood the question and there wasn't so much irrelevance in what might not be the question but answers?

So you want to go to Ireland and travel by train. Scrub this for Bus and train. Irish rail is not widespread and some journeys can be complex.

Where do You want to see? What are Your interests? It is after all your holiday.
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Old Feb 6th, 2012 | 12:33 PM
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Car gives of course great freedom and flexibility, but if one is not comfortable on driving one,I see no point on adding stress on a holiday which is supposed to be a pleasant, not an anxious experience.
Personaly I have always travel on public transport on Ireland, I admit I don't like trains much so I mostly use buses. And an occasional taxi or organised tour here and there.
On my opinion less is more though and one has to compromise among what's desired and what's doable and how you can make the most out of a so small time frame..Using public transport versus a car will slow you down even more, but this is not necessarily a bad thing. Personaly I prefer seen less places in leisure rather than just tick boxes on a "To visit" list.
May is a goof time to visit Ireland. Not too busy, not isolated and most sites will be open by then. I urge you PeaceOut to share a bit on your traveling style and interests though. Hard to advice without knowing what you are after...
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Old Feb 6th, 2012 | 12:35 PM
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Can someone post the rail map/schedule site?

If it does not go to Cashel, Doolin, Glendalough, etc...

"...Traveling Ireland by rail is one of the best ways to tour the country.." tsk tsk Fodor's
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Old Feb 6th, 2012 | 12:53 PM
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PeaceOut,
I must apologize. You are right. The train network is quite extensive.

I might work backwards...what are the main sites I would want to see. To me, monastaries, Doolin, Cashel, Ring of Kerry, Ring of Dingle, Aran Islands, west countryside, south east countryside, Dublin.
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Old Feb 6th, 2012 | 01:48 PM
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Michel, don't apologize to me-- I don't know nuthin'. Haha.

(The editors have deleted my first thread, at my request, so it doesn't get confusing.)

As for my travel style, I prefer to go slower than the Fodor's itinerary above. I actually like to spend three nights in a place, minimum. Not sure if that makes sense in Ireland, though, in the smaller villages/towns maybe two nights is plenty? I just don't like wasting time checking in/out of hotels.

Ideally, I would like ideas about base areas to stay three nights, then ideas to tour the countryside/oceanside on day-trips via bus or train.

I don't want to see cities per se, and am not so interested in Northern Ireland. Mostly I want to see the classic green countryside, village life, and the awesome seaside spots in Ireland. Maybe find some places to ride horses in the country to see the sights.

My heritage is Irish, and I have grown up with horses. I don't know where my family is from, and truthfully am not interested in looking up long-lost relatives. But I have a feeling I will feel very much at home in Ireland with my skin tone and strawberry blonde, curly hair. (Maybe I won't even try to tame my curls there!)

My time-frame and budget is flexible. Although I am certainly not looking for spas or fancy digs. I will look for the charming B&B-type places.

I do not want to deal with a car, though I understand its attraction. If I was traveling with a friend, I'd want a car. But on my own, I'd rather not mess with one.

Thank you so much for helping me. This is a 'bucket list' trip for me. DH is not interested, and I really want to go away alone to a foreign place.
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Old Feb 6th, 2012 | 02:20 PM
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Hubs would be Dublin for the East, Galway for the West, Killarney is a good base for the South West but can be a pain to get between there and Galway or Shannon.

Consider landing Shannon bus to Galway for tours of the Connemara, Arans and Burren, cross to Dublin see some of the East, Bus to Cork passes Cashel/Cahir. from Cork to Killarney then back to Limerick for Shannon and home.
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Old Feb 6th, 2012 | 02:22 PM
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www.buseireann.ie is the site for public buses on Ireland. As said before, I much prefer them rather than trains and although sometimes slow, you get to see more remote parts of Ireland and enjoy the scenery too. Train website here: http://www.irishrail.ie/

I think you are right, 3 nights is a bare minimum to enjoy an area. So you'll have to make this a three centered holiday I guess. Flying into one area, then flying out from an other will save you backtracking.

Given your interests, I would do something like this:
Fly into Shannon, then connect on a bus to Doolin in co Clare. Spend 3 nights there, then connect to Galway. Then a)3 nights on Galway area, then train to Dublin for rest of time or b) A bit of backtracking, but 3 nights in Killarney, then train to Dublin for rest of time.
Alternative, arrive on Shannon, connect to Killarney through Limerick, spend 3 nights in Killarney, then bus/train to Cork area for 3 nights, then train or bus to Dublin.
Of course there are much more options...

You say you do not like cities, so I beed to clarify that I do not necessarily mean to be based inside the cities. Galway on my opinion has a more intimate feeling and is mostly like a town that a big city and is a great base to explore Conemmara and other areas too. Doolin is a small village famous for its rural activities and its fab live traditional Irish sessions in its pubs.It serves as a good base to hike Cliffs of Moher and of course to visit Aran Islands. Killarney is somehow touristy but the surroundings will really impress you. You can always be based in near by Muckross or something if need be. I like Cork city, but if you choose this area you may want to stay in Cobh or Blarney or even Kinsale instead. I like Dublin too, but as you seem to like sea side locations etc, why not staying in Malahide,Howth ot similar? If you are not into Dublin attractions at all, you can easily make interesting day trips such as Wicklow,Newgrange and the like.
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Old Feb 6th, 2012 | 02:32 PM
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Sorry, I got confused, we need to clarify this... Sample itenerary in your OP was for 10 (full?) days (nights?) Then you mentioned flexible time frame...Could you be a bit more specific about this?
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Old Feb 6th, 2012 | 02:45 PM
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Thanks for your helpful suggestions, mariha. By "flexible time-frame", I mean I could stay a couple days longer. This could be my only visit to Ireland.

It's not that I don't like cities, but my idea is to minimize city nights. Or stay in the old town section of a city, at least, if it makes sense to stay a couple nights.
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Old Feb 6th, 2012 | 04:57 PM
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You are welcome : )
With a couple of extra nights I think you would really enjoy Doolin/Co Clare for 3-4 nights, then taking a ferry to the Aran islands, overnight on Inishmore for one-two nights, then connect on ferry to Rossaveal and Galway area. As I said Galway is a vibrant place with a rather small town ambience plus there is Salthill sea side suburb a bit more on the quiet side if need be. Nice alternatives further north are towns Clifden on Connemara and if you want to strech it a bit, Westport in Co Mayo. Westport is connected to Dublin on train I think about 3-4 hours ride so not too bad, while it is 2 hours bus - or 3 hours train ride from Galway (I think change in Athlone required). Dublin area for remainder of your trip, maybe staying on a town by the bay as I mentioned, with good DART connections to city center. Take some day trips if need be.
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Old Feb 6th, 2012 | 06:07 PM
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I've done it 3 times by car (and loved mastering that whole left side/shift with your left hand thing) so can't comment on bus/train. And for all its advantages---getting to places tour buses can't go, freedom to move at your own pace, etc--- I couldn't do the car alone---having a navigator is a must given the crazy-fun road signs and all. I agree with much of the advice given here. Fly into Shannon and begin in lovely County Clare. That will put you through Ennis---great little town---and up the coast to the Cliffs of Moher. We stay at a B&B in Doolin for the traditional Irish music in all the pubs. It's also a great base for wandering the Burren---Did you say you'll be there in May? That's a perfect time to explore the Burren. Just an hour up to Galway, and as the other contributor said, you will not feel like you're in a city. It's a composite of neighborhoods and quarters each with their own flavor. I found Doolin to be a good base for 3 days of exploring Co. Clare. Then we travel southeast to County Tipperary where we stay at a castle B&B in Cahir. From that base we do the Rock of Cashel, abbeys, gardens and the surrounding area. Next south to County Cork. The best B&B I've ever stayed in ANYWHERE in my 40 years of continual travel is just on the outskirts of Cork: The Garnish House---You will not believe the hospitality, beauty, food. Much to fill 3 days with in that area---Cobv, Midleton, Kinsale. West along the coast of West Cork for the most dramatic drive of your life. This brings you into the far southwest, Ring of Kerry, Dingle, etc. Yes, Kilarney is touristy but whata ya gonna do?? We're tourists so we can hardly complain! I would spend more than three days in that corner of Ireland. As you see I've avoided any suggestions for the north or the east of the country. I was taught that if you don't have anything nice to say, don't say anything at all. By the way, I get home from Italy on May 15---If you want a driver I'm available. References on request.
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Old Feb 7th, 2012 | 02:07 AM
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This is a trip by Public transport. Bus and Train.

3 or 4 days in Doolin miles from anywhere else with only 1 bus route? Dingle the same?

We can all do wonderful things in deserted places by car but this is not an option.
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Old Feb 7th, 2012 | 07:42 AM
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That's a good point, tony. How would you do it by bus and train?

I have not bought airfare yet, and will need to use my miles for tickets in order to justify this little splurge I am making. Ideally to fly into one city and out of another.

Thanks again, everyone.
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Old Feb 7th, 2012 | 08:13 AM
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PeaceOut - the Irish Tourist Board really has a lot of neat stuff - say about riding horses I am sure their sites will answer that or call their 800 number.

Irish Tourist Board | Ask.com
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Ireland Tourism - Voted Best Tours 4 Yrs in a Row
www.exploringireland.net
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www.discoverireland.ie/Discover Ireland is the Official Site of Failte Ireland the Irish Tourist Board. ... Irish National Heritage ParkYour senses will come alive with sights and sounds ...
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Old Feb 7th, 2012 | 08:42 AM
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Great resources. Thanks!

I'd better grab some Mileage Plus seats now.
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Old Feb 7th, 2012 | 09:14 AM
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Covered the main hubs in the previous answer. Open Jaw you could consider Land Dublin day round the city, couple of tours out.

Bus to Cork (possible stop Cashel/Cahir on this bus route). Trips to Cobh,Kinsale,Blarney.

Bus to Killarney for a couple or three day trips National Park, Muckross house, Ring of Kerry, Dingle.

Bus to Limerick-Ennis-Galway for Bunratty,Burren,Arans,Connamara.

Fly Home from Shannon.

It all really depends on your wants and the time you have.
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