We'll be staying in Provence, using Aix-en-Provence as our base, for 3 nights, before moving on to Grignan and Chateauneuf-du-Pape. We're trying to figure out what to see and not miss out on anything, without driving ourselves crazy. So far, we're thinking the first night in Aix (since we'll be arriving early evening) and maybe part of another day. One day to Arles/Camargue/Aigues-Mortes. And we really want to see Gordes and some of the surrounding villages. We need to narrow down the number of villages we see around Gordes or we'll simply be playing "If It's Tuesday, This Must be Belgium." So which are the must-sees on the day we go to Gordes: Roussillon, Fontaine-de-Vaucluse, Bonnieux, Menerbes, Nyon?

And on our last day in Provence, after leaving Chateauneuf-du-Pape, we'll be dropping off our rental car in Avignon and heading to the Cote d'Azur. We figure we can probably manage a half day in Avignon before we hop on the train. What do y'all think?

Thanks so much!

Annie

There are a ton of recent threads on this subject. Look for something with a StuDudley response. He is more than quite knowledgeable about the area.

Thanks, Rastaguy! I will do that.

If you have to choose between Roussillon and Fontaine-de-Vaucluse, go with Roussillon, it's beautiful.

Arles/Camargue/Aigue-Mortes seems like a lot in one day, but I'll leave that to the experts. I guess you'd get a glimpse of all.

Nyon is nowhere near Gordes.

Personally, on such a short stay I would not visit the Camargue or Aigues Mortes, and Arles will just be a smaller version of Aix - with Roman Ruins. Instead, explore the St Remy/Les Baux/Alpilles region.

I agree with Luisah about dropping Foutaine de Vaucluse. On the way over from Aix via the Combe de Lourmarin, visit Bonnieux, then Roussillon, and Gordes. The other villages can be "drive bys" if you are short of time. Take the suggested Luberon drive that's in the itinerary I sent you today. Do the entire route - the countryside is just as interesting and scenic as the perched villages in the Luberon.

Half day in Avignon is fine. If you plan to visit Beaucastel (highly recommended) while in Chateauneuf du Pape, don't forget to make a reservation a week in advance for an English tour. I made that mistake once.

Stu Dudley

I'd also agree that the Camargue and Aigues-Mortes would be a good candidate to cut - the drive out is quite long and I didn't feel that there was a huge amount in Aigues-Mortes...

We did a driving tour of the Luberon villages and loved it - the standout towns for us were Rousillion and Oppede Le Vieux.

Ooops - of course, Nyon is nowhere near Gordes, it's one of the villages we're thinking of seeing when we visit Grignan. So many villages, so much confusion!!

Why forget about the Camargue? It sounds so beautiful, with the wild horses and flamingos. And Aigues-Mortes isn't worth it? I thought it was this really amazing walled city? Would Richerenches be the better choice between the two for that?

Which is more interesting if we had to pick between them, Arles or Avignon?

Thanks again to all of you.

Best,

Annie

From Aix it's a loooooong way to Aigues Mortes. Others may disagree with this, but on my last visit there a couple of years ago (this was the third visit - the first was in the early 80s) I thought it was rathar bland compared to the hundreds of other villages I've visited in France & Italy. The walls are fantastic, and the Pl St Louis is quite interesting, but the remainder of the architecture was neither Medieval nor Renaissance - kind of 1800s OK - nothing special. The two half blocks inside the Porte de la Gardette had some of the tackiest shops I've seen this side of Mt St Michelle. However, I'm definately not a first-timer - and people visiting it for the frist time would probably find it much more interesting than I did - I know I enjoyed it more on my first trip. IMO, there are many interesting towns of similar size that you are not visiting - St Remy, Arles, Uzes, Carpentras, plus Nimes, Avignon, Montpellier. All except Montpellier & Nimes would be a much shorter drive for you.

Avignon vs Arles. I would choose Avignon - it's larger. However, it would still seem like a "different version" of Aix without the Palais du Popes. Of the four large towns, (Aix, Arles, Avignon, and Montpellier), I prefer Aix & Montpellier - with Avignon trailing sightly. Don't cast your schedule in concrete - after 3 nights in Aix, decide if you really want to visit another large Provence city, or if you want remote & pretty countryside with small villages instead. I cast my bet on the latter. Don't short-change the beautiful countryside in Provence - it's why we return year after year (we'll be there in 2 weeks, for a 4 week stay).

Stu Dudley

Anyone actually been to the Camargue? Maybe we'll pass on Aigues-Mortes, but how long from Aix to the Camargue? According to viamichelin.com, it's 1 hr., 22 min. from Aix to the capital of the Camargue, Les Saintes-Marie-de-la-Mer. I believe the wild horses and flamingos are in that area.

I've been to the Camargue many times. I think Aigues-Mortes is one of the prettiest towns in Provence (though distractingly crowded in high season). The marshland is beautiful. I've never driven there from Aix, though, so don't know how long a drive it is - would guess about an hour and a half.

On the other hand, this itinerary does need some pruning, and choices need to be ade. I'd personally choose the Camargue over the Fontaine-de-Vaucluse area.

Very interested in information about the Camargue...are the wild horses and flamingoes seen from drive to Aigue-Mortes or do you go into a wildlife reserve? Areas to get out and walk and view wildlife? We'll be in Provence with our kids the second week of June - and they love nature, wildlife - but not sure how to envision this? "marsh" or "wetlands" don't get me too excited as I'm originally from Louisiana!

My experience may not be typical, but we didn't see any wild horses, bulls, or flamingos on our drive from St. Remy to Aigues-Mortes, although they may be in other areas off that relatively busy path.

There was a Camargue info centre that I recall passing on the way, I'm sure someone else can provide you with more info about walks/etc....

As for Aigues-Mortes itself, we didn't have a lot of time to explore it, but we did see a bit down in the village itself and then did the walk around the top of the walls - the views are fantastic but it is a fairly long walk. Most of the shops seemed to be selling the same touristy stuff that is available pretty much everywhere else. There were a few decent looking cafes in the main square, although again we didn't stop to sample any of them.

I wouldn't necessarily discount a trip to Aigues-Mortes, but if you've got a limited amount of time in Provence, it also wouldn't be at the top of my list of places to see...

I also happen to really enjoy Aigues Mortes... but I really am not a fan of Les Saintes Maries de la Mer (which is pretty much like any beach resort area).
A good way to enjoy the Camargue - which is not really "marshy" as you would know it - is by horseback or jeep. Here's a website for a group based in Arles. Just outside the walls of Aigues Mortes there are other companies that do the same thing.

http://www.safari-robert.com

And yes, there are plenty of flamingoes and horses to see...as well as bulls. They raise them there for the Spanish bullfighting and there are some really big ones out there !

Patricia

Another here who loved the Camargue. We stayed a few days in Aigues-Mortes. I got seranaded by gypsy King wannabe at the Camargue restaurant. Besides the beautiful white horses, black bulls, and pink flamingoes, it's a bird watchers'paradise and some great restaurants. Another place we stayed was the beautiful Mas De Peint in Sambuc.

StuDudley, we will be in Provence at the same time you are. You helped me begin my planning over a year ago.If you see a bunch of tourists in a VW bus with lots of luggage, that will be us.