My Two Weeks in the Engadine

Old Oct 23rd, 2022, 11:20 AM
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My Two Weeks in the Engadine

I received some great hiking tips in this forum so thought I would post a summary of my recent trip. I'm a solo female traveler, early 70s. Weather was cool and rainy first 3 days and the last day but clear and sunny for most of my mountain hikes.

The first week I was based in Sils Maria at Hotel Maria. I loved this hotel: a comfy quiet room, incredible food (I took half board), and most of all a very friendly and welcoming staff. Some highlights:
  • Every day in the late afternoon I walked the path around the Chaste Peninsula. So beautiful and peaceful.
  • The hike from Sils Baselglia to Maloja via Grevasalvas was definitely a favorite. The views are gorgeous. After barley soup in Maloja I walked back to Sils Maria via Isola.
  • I did several walks on different days into the Val Fex via different trails. I stopped twice at Hotel Sonne for warm chestnut cake with whipped cream.
  • Took the bus to Soglio and spent 2 hours wandering every little street and alley. Unfortunately it was cold and rainy but that meant I had the entire village to myself! I definitely hope to return to Soglio someday and explore the area more, preferably with sunshine!
  • On the bus ride back I hopped off in Maloja and took the trail to Lake Cavloc. Still cold and rainy and halfway up it started to snow! Enjoyed coffee and nusstorte at the little restaurant on the lake. Only 3 other people were there watching the snow fall.
  • Gondola to Furtschellas to do the 6 lakes loop. There were quite a few hikers and also a large school group so I headed off in the opposite direction and hiked to 2 of the lakes with not a single other hiker in sight! Returned to the gondola station and did the hike to Marmore viewpoint and then the descent to Curtins.
For the second week I was based in Pontresina. Another small and very friendly hotel : Hotel Garni Chesa Mulin. A great breakfast and perfect location (close to bus stop and the Surovas train stop),
  • From town I followed a woodland trail to the Morteratsch Glacier. A clear day with the the bright sun reflecting off the glacier.
  • Early morning took funicular to Muottas Muragl. Did the Philosophers Loop trail and then the Panorama walk to Alp Languard charilift. This was another favorite hike. At every turn I encountered fantastic views. Midway I stopped for coffee and birnbrot at the little lookout restaurant Munt da la Bes-cha.
  • Train to Ospizio Bernina. Walked along the lake and over the dam and then took the trail to Sassal Mason. Yes....another favorite hike! It's unfortunate the alp restaurant is closed but I sat in the warm sun and ate my packed lunch and had the place to myself. From there I descended to Alp Grum, jumped on the train to Poschiavo where I had a gelato and explored the town.
  • Bus and then Corvatsch gondola to the middle station. Hiked to Fuorcla Pass, more stunning views, and then decided to go for it and hike down to Val Roseg. This was a very long descent and while I was quite proud of my accomplishment, I don't think I would do it again! The walk out of the valley back to Pontresina was very nice as larch trees were all changing to yellow.
  • I also walked to St. Moritz one morning via Lake Staz (I wanted to buy tea at Glattfelder). On my last day in the area it was raining again so I took the train and explored the small towns of Zuoz and Samedan.
This was an incredible vacation. Plenty of fresh air and exercise, delicious food, friendly people, and time to relax and enjoy the amazing beauty of Switzerland. Surprisingly I did not encounter another American until my departure from Zurich. I hope to return soon!
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Old Oct 23rd, 2022, 12:24 PM
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My eyes lit up when I saw your title!
Happy to see this, there’s so much to do in the area, what a fantastic 2 weeks.
Should you return, consider a week in the Lower Engadine as well.
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Old Oct 23rd, 2022, 01:41 PM
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Oh, I see from your planning thread that you have based previously in Ardez, wonderful, I’d forgotten that.
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Old Oct 23rd, 2022, 03:02 PM
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We stayed at that exact hotel two years ago, yes it is very nice. We were not aware we needed to reserve the half board meals in advance and were sadly disappointed in checking in that they were all taken, leaving us to eat in the adjoining restaurant and other places. A rookie error, but be aware advance reservations should be made with your hotel reservation to be safe. This is a very beautiful, but expensive area of Switzerland. Well worth it but a favorite of the rich and very well to do.
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Old Oct 23rd, 2022, 09:15 PM
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Thanks for writing, 70traveler, great to hear that you had a wonderful time. Such a beautiful part of the world.

May I ask, did you ever feel uncomfortable hiking on your own? It's something I've thought of often when I contemplate hiking solo and don't know whether I'm being unreasonably risk averse. But I can't always find someone to go with and if the alternative is to not go, then I think better to go. Any advice to offer?
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Old Oct 23rd, 2022, 11:01 PM
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Your trip sounds wonderful and I am so glad you chose the Hotel Maria. I have stayed there several times myself and I love it. Plus I have known the owners for 15 years or so and I know how much care they take about their guests. Liked the comments about the food too - their pasta is particularly yummy I think! Sils Maria and the surrounding area is truly magnificent!
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Old Oct 23rd, 2022, 11:22 PM
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Thanks for this trip report. Very glad you enjoyed your time in the Engadine so much. The hikes sound wonderful, some of them are among my favourites, too.
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Old Oct 24th, 2022, 03:33 AM
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I love the entire Engadine region, Upper and Lower. For me it seems more relaxing, less rushed, and definitely less tourists. Though I tend to avoid summer in Switzerland and travel in late September/early October.

I never felt uncomfortable hiking on my own especially in Switzerland. I try to use my common sense (I did not hike to Fuorcla Pass when the trail was completely snow covered but returned to do it when the snow line had receded). And I make sure I have the right gear in my daypack (rain clothes, extra layers, first aid kit, etc). For this trip I also had Traveler's Wifi that I rented in Zurich Airport so I was always connected and had several indispensable apps loaded on my phone (Swiss Mobility so I could see where I was on a trail, the Swiss transportation app to see bus and train times, and the Swiss weather app).

I did not exceed my budget of $4000 for the two weeks ($1200 of that was was airfare and travel insurance) and I also had a hotel in Zurich for my final night, so I didn't find it expensive. The free transport cards the hotels provide are an incredible value. I bought two Day Saver passes to get me to the region and then back to Zurich. I should note that I don't drink and that after 6 nights of incredible four course meals in Sils Maria, I only had two full dinners in Pontresina and the rest of my meals were takeout from bakeries or the Coop, or lunches at the alp restaurants.

I can't wait to return!
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