Hello my friends, thought I had better start on my trip report before the memories start to fade. Its less than two weeks since I've returned home, and I am desperate to go again - is it normal to feel this way?
I hope I don't rave on too much, I am going to keep this report as a kind of diary too for myself, so I might go on a bit.
Just a few notes to start:
I am early 40's, made the unilateral decision to do this after seeing a cheapish airfare, and with the approval of my then 15 year old daughter who said, 'go and do it mum, just book it', so I did. I have not done anything quite like this before on my own - at times I was right out of my comfort zone, and certainly it was challenging, at other times just depressing and at other times I thought to myself 'never again'. But now, would I do it again - absolutely, in a heartbeat, no question.
Day 1, 23rd December, arrived at the airport about 5 hours before plane was due to depart at midnight (my family dropped me off at the airport on their way to their own Christmas holiday at my father's beachside house - they wanted to beat the traffic). I didn't mind, I love airports - don't mind the waiting around. The flight (an Air NZ boeing 777) was chocka full - I was right down ithe back in the last row by a window seat - deliberately picked this spot and wasn't disappointed. Only two seats here and easy enough to get in and out of to get to the bathroom. Had a nice travelling campionion - guy from Leeds who had been visiting NZ, and we had some nice chats on the way up to Hong Kong, between watching movies. Arrived in Hong Kong 6.30am Christmas Eve. The airport was almost deserted when we first arrived. For the next 8 hours I wandered around, lots of walking, drinking cups of tea, and the best thing of all - free Internet terminals throughout the departure area - I used it several times over the 8 hours. I noticed that 99% of everyone on the terminals was using Facebook.
I was so excited when it was time to board Lufthansa to Frankfurt - it was great as had a spare seat next to me, and could spread out a little. Good food. Good service. No personal entertainment systems however on the old 747, but I didn't mind as I really didn't feel like watching anything by this time.
The closer we flew to Germany, the more excited I became and stared out for hours into the darkness and twinkling lights below. Had quite a good view flying into Frankfurt - flew in north over the city, then right down south, before coming back in. I was glued to the window and was pleased to see snow (there is none of that where I come from).
We landed right on time at 7pm Frankfurt Airport - I was excited to see a couple of de-icing machines doing their work on other aircraft (a first for me). Getting off the plane here, I felt a wonderful feeling like I was coming home and just had to smile.
Customs and passport control was a breeze - hardly anyone about. I actually had to go off in search of the customs office as I had some food items in my luggage, wanted to declare it, but they weren't interested.
Managed to find my way to the train station, it was clearly marked, and this is where I faced my first challenge - how to purchase a ticket. I had studied up on this before I left and with thanks to mainhattengirl on here, managed to get it on the second attempt. I was ever so pleased with myself. Didn't wait long for the train and three stops later I was at the great Hauptbahnhof. This is where I must have taken a wrong turn and instead of coming out at the main entrance, I ended up on the other side of the street. I knew I must have done something wrong as I was lugging my large suitcase up the escalators that weren't running and no one else was about - they were most likely all at the main exit, but not me, of course I go somewhere different.
Nevermind, this was the first of many times of lugging that great case up and down stairs (there is something to be said for travelling light, and I was absolutely not) I was like a sherpa with wheely suitcase and backpack.
Thanks to mainhattengirl again I easily found the No. 11 tram - and hopped on. There were quite a few people on it which surprised me for the time of night it was on Christmas Eve. This is where I encountered my first 'nutter'. Someone was standing by the door, and talking loudly to himself, but looking also at everyone as he yelled. I was worried he would get off at my stop, but thankfully he didn't. I followed a map which I had printed out from google, which listed all the stops on the route, so I knew exactly where to get off, and I watched how people were opening the door - might sound crazy, but its all these little things you need to know about.
Got off at the correct stop, and it was very quiet - the road was wide, four lanes, plus the two lanes for the trams. Lots of snow on the road and pavement and it was a struggle with that suitcase - it just wouldn't wheel properly. I must have looked a bit of a sight because a taxi really slowed down to have a good look. It took me a while to cross the road as the pedestrian lights weren't working and I had to carefully judge the distance of vehicles - it was a little slippery and I couldn't run across - had to take my time. Fortunately there was very little traffic and no people whatsoever walking about.
Was very pleased with myself once I arrived at the hotel - Golden Leaf - very pleased with it, and best of all it had a kitchenette. The room was large, clean, and had a view across to the city. I could hear church bells ringing, and it started to snow. Was fascinated to watch a bit of German tv and flicked through all the channels. End of day 1.

Congrats on your trip! I'm loving the wonderful joy and, well, sense of wonder, in your trip report.

I feel it's completely normal to want to break out the suitcase again when it seems like you just got back. I return from my trips and can't wait to start planning the next one Anxious to read more.

traveltalesfromtheredheadedtraveler.blogspot.com/
(My travel writing blog!)

Thanks guys for the encouragement - its enough to spur me on a little more..... and yes, I think the only way to overcome the 'back to earth reality check' after a trip is to plan another

Day 2 - Christmas Day (Merry Christmas to me)
Wow, wake up feeling like 'yes I really am in Germany, and yes the snow is still out there, I didn't dream it'.

Having a kitchenette in the room was really fantastic - I made myself some cereal (from home) and a cappuccino. Its not that I'm a scrooge but it costs soooo much to travel from NZ to Europe (well to anywhere really as we are so isolated here) that I try to save and budget in other small ways). Also I'm not the 'foodie' type, so it didn't matter to me what I ate for breakfast.
Today I decided once and for all to do the Frankfurt on Foot walking tour. I also made the decision to walk into the centre of the city from the hotel as I was not sure, being Christmas Day, how often the trams/trains would be running, and truth be told, I was still a little anxious about those jolly scary ticket machines. So I set off in plenty of time, realised after a few minutes I'd left my scarf behind and debated whether to go back and get it or not - I did return, and was very grateful for that by the end of the day.
Managed to find my way to the Roemer Square after a pleasant easy 25 minute or so walk. Not too many people about and just a small handful at the Roemer Square. Everything pretty much shut down except for Starbucks and one souvenir shop. I found the tour guide no problem, and a young Japanese girl waiting gives me a huge smile - I think she is relieved to see someone else turn up. Likewise I am a little relieved too that I am not the only one!!! By the time the tour starts we two turn into we four! I obviously hadn't realised how cold I was because when I started initially talking to the tour guide, my face felt numb - like after having an injection at the dentist - very odd sensation. I guess my face was partially frozen and I hadn't realised it until I opened my mouth. Temp was -4 c, with a little bit of blue sky. Maybe not really cold for some of you, but for me, yes it was.
The walking tour was very good and gave me an informative overview of the city. I've even managed to retain a few interesting facts the tour guide told us.
By the end of the tour I think it is safe to say that I was frozen to the core. I was wearing jeans, with long johns underneath and thermal socks with snow/hiking boots, and a goose down jacket that came to 'bum' length. In hindsight I really needed a jacket that was knee length - well we live and learn don't we. The coldest parts of me were my thighs and my toes.
I really needed to get inside somewhere and heat up a little and because not much was open (apart from the Starbucks, which I was totally not interested in) I decided to sit inside the Dom for a while - spent about an hour there, just resting, looking at the church, and people watching.
However I couldn't stay there forever, what I was really waiting for was darkness, as I wanted to see the Roemer Square lit up in all its beautiful glory. I left the Dom and ventured back to the Roemer Square, and found myself inside the St Nickolai Church - and ended up staying there for the rest of the day. After a while of just sitting there doing nothing, wondering what to do with myself, it was quite obvious that something was soon to happen - a choir came in to practice and I listened to their beautiful singing of Christmas. The Church soon filled up - the congretation were mostly Asian - it was quite obvious I was the only tourist. I debated with myself whether to move on or not, but decided I was still cold, and so stayed put. So very glad I did. The service started and although I couldn't understand a word of it (it was in German but mainly I think Indonesian) i loved every minute of it. It was also quite long - maybe 1.5 hours. Before the service started I noticed someone handing out these like 'spin top things' to people (but not to me) it took me a while to realise that they were candles. When it came time for the candles to be lit, I was given one, and I stood up, along with everyone else. There were no lights on in the little Church, except for the candles and the lights glowing on the Christmas tree. When the choir and the congregation sung Silent Night in Indonesian, it was such a moving experience for me, I couldn't help the tears streaming down my face. It sounds pathetic I know, but I really couldn't help it - it sounded just so beautiful and the location was utterly perfect. I had to pinch myself. Here I was, in this charming little church in the middle of Frankfurt on Christmas Day, holding tightly to my wee candle and pretending to sing Silent Night in whatever language everyone else was singing it in - it was truely magic, and I'll never forget it. I would have liked to have got my video out for this but didn't think it was appropriate. This was my first real highlight and definitely one that I will never forget.
By the time I left the church it was dark and the Roemer Square was looking quite stunning.
Caught the No. 11 tram back to the hotel and ate some microwaved chilli tuna for dinner !!! It was quite nice actually.
Watched more of German tv - did my very best to understand it and hit the sack.
With the time difference of NZ to Europe (12 hours) and the jet lag, I found I was ready for bed by 5 in the evening, then wide awake by 2am. It took over a week to settle down somewhat.
The end of a magnificent Christmas Day.

Wow, enjoy your writing. Thanks for taking the time to share your experiences with us.

You asked: "Its less than two weeks since I've returned home, and I am desperate to go again - is it normal to feel this way?"

Didn't anyone warn you that travel is addictive?

nz101, great report. I too am enjoying your writing and can feel the excitement, happiness and wonderment you were experiencing. Looking forward to the next installment!

(we spent Christmas in Berlin many years ago and your report is bringing all the great memories back)

Joe

Brings back memories of my first time by myself in Europe. I was 18, without a lot of money, and discovered that my award-winning high school French wasn't very useful in daily life (but I could conjugate many verbs in pluperfect subjunctive!). So many things were intimidating, but there was this incredible intensity of experience, with the novelty of everything. I too often found refuge in the cathedrals and churches -- a bit of quiet, a bit of community, a place to sit and rest, some gorgeous concerts -- and I'm not even religious.

Thanks guys. Joe, I also went to Berlin too - but that is for later in my report. S.P Tripod, I'm not religious either, but the European churches are just astounding, I could sit and gaze all day.

Day 3 - Boxing Day
Another -4 degree day and this time I prepared myself - wore two pairs of long johns under my jeans and two pairs of socks! After all my friends, I had just come from temperatures of mid 20s! Thank god I decided to bring extra long johns Took about half an hour to layer myself up, but I really didn't want to get the shivers today.

Quite a relaxed and easy day as didn't have any definite plans. I bought myself a day transport ticket from the tram stop - amazing myself that I managed to actually get the machine to work. Think it cost about 6 euro something.
Spent quite some time riding around on trams, and getting familiar with the underground. I have to say that for a city of only 700,000 odd inhabitants Frankfurt has a great transport system. It really was easy to use and quite impossible to get lost. I also didn't have to wait any longer than say 5 minutes, and this is on a public holiday, very impressive. NZ could certainly learn a few lessons from Germany here !
It might sound silly, but I had a wonderful time walking about the great Hauptbahnhof station, looking in shops (about the only ones open in the city) - I must say they have a great book shop in there if anyone is interested! I was surprised to see that the DB info centre was open and I walked in - many many people about, and purchased myself a lander ticket for the next day (Rhine trip).

By this time it was getting well on for the afternoon and my stomach was complaining, so i found myself back at my beloved Roemer Square. My next challenge was about to happen - I've never particularly eaten on my own at a restaurant before, and certaintly never in a foreign speaking country. I plucked up the courage and pushed open the door to the little pub at the Haus Wertheim. It was tiny inside, very interesting with lots of beersteins and things hanging from every conceivable space, lots of wood and gorgeous little led light windows. Of course, the only free table happened to be sitting right in the centre of the room - had no choice but to take it. I ordered chicken schnitzel, with potatoes and salad (I just loveeeeee potatoes, especially how the Germans cook them). Also had two glasses of Rhine wine
I did enjoy myself in here, and it started to snow outside - how better could it get.
My meal came to 22 euro plus tip (the waiter was real surprised to get a tip, but I found I did this most times - in NZ it isn't usual to tip at all, but in Germany I did and most times people were surprised, or so it seemed to me) The wine was the most expensive - think it was 4.50 euro each - but what the heck, I would pay this back here in NZ.

For anyone that may be interested Haus Wertheim is the only original half timbered building in the Roemer Square that survived the bombings. I learned on the walking tour that the cellars under the building were used as bomb shelters and a hose was always kept handy (water coming from the Main River) - and it was for this reason that the building was saved. This was one fact of the walking tour that my brain managed to retain in my jetlagged frozen state.

After this delicious lunch/come dinner, I decided to go walking over to the Sachenhausen district - very pretty area. I was feeling a little sickly - maybe I should have just stuck to the one wine! Nevermind I walked around for an hour or so, then crossed a bridge back to Frankfurt City - had the urge to go up the Observation Deck of the Tower, but I was disappointed to find that it was closed due to 'too much ice'. Oh well, I did try.

Back at Willy Brandt Platz and it was snowing heavily - it was fantastic and I was quite excited by this! I took several photos of the wonderful falling white stuff I'm sure people must have thought 'what is that crazy woman doing'.

I spent some more time wandering around the streets, and again in the churches and again at the Roemer Square at night.

Cannot remember what time I got back to my hotel, but for sure it wasn't late, no doubt I was lying in bed by 7pm watching my favourite German tv and thinking about tomorrow.....

PS
I meant to say earlier that I've taken something like 2500 photos all up, 300 of which I have on facebook, so if any of you wish to have a look, I would be only too happy to join you up as a friend. I am really pleased with how well my camera performed.

Glad to hear your time in Frankfurt was fun. It truly was a cold freezing Christmas here though.

Hey Mainhattengirl. Thanks for all the advice you gave me. I often thought of you while I was over there. !!! Have to say that I really love Frankfurt, there's just something about it that appeals to me.

Thank you for taking the time to post your report, really enjoyable

Day 4 – Monday, 27th

Up bright and early for this much anticipated trip to the Middle Rhine. Woohoo can't wait. Think it was still dark when I left the hotel and caught the No. 11 tram to the Hauptbahnhof. More people around today, think quite a few are back at work - poor things, glad I’m not one of them . The train station was really busy actually and a lot were waiting for the train to Mainz. Thinking back to this time, I remember not very much about the train journey, except that it seemed to take ages to get to Mainz – for some reason I thought it was much closer.

Arrived at Mainz station and once again, can barely recall what this place looked like – by the end of the trip I had been to literally dozens and dozens of stations, so I guess it is okay not to remember them all. Would have liked to have gone into the city of Mainz itself, but I had to make a choice and that was to keep travelling northwards towards Koblenz.

Found my train – feeling quite excited indeed, nice new looking train it was too. Delighted to see a dog on board as well. Must say here how much I love the idea of dogs being allowed in restaurants, shopping malls, fancy department stores, riding escalators, trains, etc – and not once did I see a badly behaved one – unlike lots of children.

Shortly after leaving Mainz there was an announcement, in German, couldn’t understand a word of it, but I wasn’t at all concerned – not the first announcement I had heard on a train afterall. We stopped at Bingen and about four people (plus dog) got off – well that was everyone in the carriage except for me ! I sat there not thinking anything strange about this at all. After a while the driver walks through the carriage and says something to me as he’s passing – yes in German. I’m still not concerned and stay in my seat. After a little while he comes back, and says something else. I tell him I’m sorry but I don’t understand and did he speak English – ‘Nein’ he replies. (He’s looking a bit sheepish and I’m sure he does speak English – perhaps he’s a little shy). Then he demonstrates with his hands and says ‘komme’. Meekly I follow. He gets me off the train and points directly in front of the train I’m on – to another train! Okay I finally get it. I just wish I had been told when I purchased my ticket from the DB desk that I had to transfer here.

Okay off we go again, this train is older and a little shabbier, but hey its moving in the right direction and I’m on it, so I guess that is all that matters....

How thrilling it was to see my first view of the Rhine River ! Yes even though it was a dull and cold day, it was pretty special to actually be there.

First stop – Bacharach. Only one to get off here – it was an eerie feeling arriving at this station, it was dead quiet and absolutely no one around. I checked the info board to see when I would have to be back at the station to catch the next train, I had about 50 minutes.

I spent that time wandering around – what a pretty little village. Took about 100 photos Beautiful Christmas decorations, Christmas trees and a cute decorated snowman. It was just gorgeous and I sooooo love the half timbered buildings. Surprisingly, one or two shops were open, but just no one about. I bought a couple of yummy things from the bakery and walked back to the train station. Once again, I was the only one to get on/off the train.

Next stop – St Goar. Larger town with a little more activity than Bacharach. Some shops were open, but not all. Once again, I just wandered around, walked along the river side, and the main shopping street. Another 100 odd photos Walked into a cuckoo clock shop and ‘almost’ bought one – now regret very much that I didn’t. Such reasonable prices they were too. One thing I told myself was that if I saw something I liked, I should buy it, as it was unlikely I would see it again. I didn’t follow my own rule and walked away without the cuckoo clock. As it was only day 4 of my three week trip, I knew I would see more clocks and perhaps at cheaper prices, but it never really happened. So my advice to everyone - if you see something and you like it, buy it, you may not get the opportunity again.

Back on the train again and next stop Boppard – very nice town, lots of people about and most shops I saw were open. Once again, I wandered about, another 100 or so photos Walked along the main shopping street and down by the river. Decided that I was getting hungry but didn’t see much open by the river – went into one guesthouse/restaurant, but it was deserted and I walked out again. Then a woman came running out to see what I wanted and I asked if they were open for lunch – of course they were. So in I went – lucky me - was able to get a window seat looking towards the river. Ordered the house speciality – roast pork with salad and potatoes – I can still taste those spuds now, they were very delicious. Also got a small carafe of wine – in total this came to 12 euro something, plus tip. Thought it was very good value for money. I was the only one in there except for an elderly gent who popped in for a beer. I wonder what this place is like in summer – can’t imagine it, and perhaps I wouldn’t like it.

By this time I had been in Boppard a couple of hours – decided to get the next train to Koblenz – quite a few people waiting for this train, including a large group of elderly English people, obviously part of a tour group, who were disturbing my peace!

Arrived in Koblenz to find I had just missed the train down the other side of the Rhine, which meant I had to wait about an hour. It was okay, I just wandered about the train station – didn’t feel I had enough time to venture into the city itself. In hindsight perhaps I should have, but hindsight is a wonderful thing.

Back on the train heading south again, and it was getting towards late afternoon – as far as daylight is concerned anyway. I was glued to the window again and taking photos and videoing, but my shots from the moving train haven’t turned out so well. For the first time, my ticket was inspected – and the conductor was quite interested in my camera and what I was taking photos of – he kept coming by to chat.

By this time the light was really fading – originally I planned to get off at Rudesheim, but by the time the train arrived here, it was completely dark and the place looked empty – I decided to stay on the train – again, maybe I should have got off, but I didn’t.

By the time I got back to the hotel I was exhausted, but really happy about the day, and hit the sack early.

How thrilling it was to see my first view of the Rhine River ! Yes even though it was a dull and cold day, it was pretty special to actually be there.

First stop – Bacharach. Only one to get off here – it was an eerie feeling arriving at this station, it was dead quiet and absolutely no one around. I checked the info board to see when I would have to be back at the station to catch the next train, I had about 50 minutes.

I spent that time wandering around – what a pretty little village. Took about 100 photos Beautiful Christmas decorations, Christmas trees and a cute decorated snowman. It was just gorgeous and I sooooo love the half timbered buildings. Surprisingly, one or two shops were open, but just no one about. I bought a couple of yummy things from the bakery and walked back to the train station. Once again, I was the only one to get on/off the train.

Next stop – St Goar. Larger town with a little more activity than Bacharach. Some shops were open, but not all. Once again, I just wandered around, walked along the river side, and the main shopping street. Another 100 odd photos Walked into a cuckoo clock shop and ‘almost’ bought one – now regret very much that I didn’t. Such reasonable prices they were too. One thing I told myself was that if I saw something I liked, I should buy it, as it was unlikely I would see it again. I didn’t follow my own rule and walked away without the cuckoo clock. As it was only day 4 of my three week trip, I knew I would see more clocks and perhaps at cheaper prices, but it never really happened. So my advice to everyone - if you see something and you like it, buy it, you may not get the opportunity again.

Back on the train again and next stop Boppard – very nice town, lots of people about and most shops I saw were open. Once again, I wandered about, another 100 or so photos Walked along the main shopping street and down by the river. Decided that I was getting hungry but didn’t see much open by the river – went into one guesthouse/restaurant, but it was deserted and I walked out again. Then a woman came running out to see what I wanted and I asked if they were open for lunch – of course they were. So in I went – lucky me - was able to get a window seat looking towards the river. Ordered the house speciality – roast pork with salad and potatoes – I can still taste those spuds now, they were very delicious. Also got a small carafe of wine – in total this came to 12 euro something, plus tip. Thought it was very good value for money. I was the only one in there except for an elderly gent who popped in for a beer. I wonder what this place is like in summer – can’t imagine it, and perhaps I wouldn’t like it.

By this time I had been in Boppard a couple of hours – decided to get the next train to Koblenz – quite a few people waiting for this train, including a large group of elderly English people, obviously part of a tour group, who were disturbing my peace!

Arrived in Koblenz to find I had just missed the train down the other side of the Rhine, which meant I had to wait about an hour. It was okay, I just wandered about the train station – didn’t feel I had enough time to venture into the city itself. In hindsight perhaps I should have, but hindsight is a wonderful thing.

Back on the train heading south again, and it was getting towards late afternoon – as far as daylight is concerned anyway. I was glued to the window again and taking photos and videoing, but my shots from the moving train haven’t turned out so well. For the first time, my ticket was inspected – and the conductor was quite interested in my camera and what I was taking photos of – he kept coming by to chat.

By this time the light was really fading – originally I planned to get off at Rudesheim, but by the time the train arrived here, it was completely dark and the place looked empty – I decided to stay on the train – again, maybe I should have got off, but I didn’t.

By the time I got back to the hotel I was exhausted, but really happy about the day, and hit the sack early.

Regarding the shopping rule, I totally concur. I've missed out on a lot of things over the years when I didn't follow it; I've treasured many things when I have followed it; and even when I bought something that didn't turn out great, it wasn't a big deal anyway. I wish I were rich enough to apply this rule to real estate!

Boy, did I ever enjoy your trip report! You have done something that I have been inquiring about on this board for some time now...traveling alone!!!! Any you had a great time. I wll do this soon~

SPT - you are so right, I too wish I could apply this rule to real estate
Kraines, thank you so much. I hope you continue to read on with my great and at times not so great adventure.

I am also enjoying your 'style' of writing! It brings me back to my first trip to Germany back in the '70's!

I do not think there is a better time than Christmas season in Germany!

Most of us only use Frankfurt as a gateway city to fly in and get out quickly, nice to read about your city stay. Wonderful reporting on the Church Choir! It brought a tear to my eye as well!

-john

Thank you John, it brings tears to my eyes again just thinking back ! I know that Frankfurt doesn’t get rated highly as a major tourist destination, but personally, I loved it, and definitely will go back. I also agree with you about Christmas in Germany.

Day 5 – Tuesday, 28th Dec.

Still find that I am waking up around 2am waiting for the day to begin – when will my jet lag fix itself? Decided at 3am to do my laundry – well, need to make the most of the washing machine in the hotel basement don’t I, who knows when I will have the next opportunity. By the end though, I wish I hadn’t started – one problem after another with the machine and dryer, and several trips to the reception desk, and four hours later, my washing was finally done – and I was just about ready to scream by then. Heaven knows what the reception staff thought of this crazy lady doing laundry in the middle of the night.

Leaving Frankfurt.

Feeling a little sad about leaving ‘my’ Frankfurt. I am well settled into my hotel – would be quite happy to stay on, but am booked into a hotel in Speyer, so leave I must.

I decided this morning to walk to the nearest train station, which I could see from my hotel room window and it was only a few hundred metres away. I asked the girl at reception if the station had escalators or lifts for luggage and she said ‘yes’. So I dragged my suitcase through the snow – wasn’t easy as the pavements hadn’t been swept and the wheels weren’t rolling. Got to the station and yes they had escalators but they weren’t running. Had to lug the case down the stairs, which was difficult. And why on earth did people from below choose to come up ‘my stairs’ when there was no way they could get passed me, and there were other stairs they could have chosen ! Got myself a ticket from the machine – I’m beginning to get quite good at using these.

Arrived at the Hauptbahnhof and was pleased to drop my luggage at the baggage counter – 6.50 euros – a bit of a rip off I think for just a few hours, but hey, I really had no choice, and was glad to get rid of it.

I was due to meet up with a friend for lunch – and had arranged to meet her next to the Christmas tree at the Hauptbahnhof – easy to find I had said to her the night before on the phone - I won’t get lost. Well the jolly thing had been taken down overnight – so I just had to hope that she actually knew where the tree should have been.

I had a couple of hours to spare so hit the shops – it was wonderful as it was my first opportunity to check them out.

Back to the station feeling a little nervous as I hadn’t met this friend before – someone I briefly corresponded with years ago, then we lost contact, and only found each other again three weeks before I left for Germany. So it was a last minute plan. When I asked what she looked like, she told me she had blonde hair and would be wearing a black jacket. This description seemed to fit every third person at the station. However as it turned out, I spotted her right away – not sure how I knew it was her, but I just did. We got on extremely well right from the word go, which I was very pleased about, and how nice it was to speak to a familiar person after so many days of talking to myself. We went into a very nice restaurant, but unfortunately I can’t remember the name of it. It was gorgeous and located somewhere by the Zeil area. We both had tomato soup with bread – me with wine  and her with coffee – bill was 25 euro. It was great.

Back to the Hauptbahnhof, collected luggage, and friend helped me buy my ticket to Speyer, as for some reason the machine would not take my cash.

Fond farewells to my friend and I’m on the train with a feeling of excitement and anticipation. Sitting by a couple and their teenage daughter who keep smiling and think it quite funny when I take a photo of the ICE train sitting next to ours. So I just smile back and tell them “I like trains”. They are nice people and even inform me when the conductor has entered the carriage and I need to get my ticket out. I would welcome the opportunity to get to know them some more but unfortunately they get off shortly after.

It takes around an hour to get into Mannheim and the scenery along the way is pretty much uneventful – perhaps because all fields etc are snow covered and daylight is becoming dim. Mannheim station is a busy little place – lots of folk rushing about madly. I was soon to be one of them. I was dismayed to find that the lift here wasn’t working, so once again I had to lug my case down a whole lot of stairs and then up another set to my track for the next train. It didn’t look right though, as the trains here were ICE – my trains were all regional. Thought I had better get out my ticket and sure enough I was on the wrong track. Looked at the clock and with panic realised I had only a minute to get my train – wasn’t sure now whether to run for it, or not – but I decided yes I would go for it as I wanted to get to Speyer ASAP, didn’t want to wait another hour or so. So I grabbed my suitcase, pack on my back, and literally flew down the stairs with the suitcase coming fast behind me, raced along the tunnel, and tried to race up the correct stairs to the correct track. It was hard going, and people were just everywhere all running like me and there was no room to move. I heard my train pull up and I was still at the bottom of the stairs. I must have had a look of panic on my face because out of the corner of my eye I could see an elderly gentleman watching me – he was standing at the top of the stairs. I thought, yeah, thanks, its a good show isn’t it. I made it to the top and was really breathless. The train was in and people were running both off and on it like mad things. I raced onto a carriage and was much relieved and totally out of breath, puffing like crazy. Then the elderly gent comes along and says something to me like ‘idlestein, idlestein’. I didn’t get it, then realised, oh god, ‘idle train’. Thank god for him, I can’t even remember whether I thanked him or not, as I flew out the door and onto the next carriage in front of me. How can this be, the train pulls in – then only half of it continues on – all in a matter of a mere minute or two.

Anyway, standing room only on this train and it takes me several minutes to breath normally again.

Arrive in Speyer and oh wow, it looks like another gorgeous town – I have an idea its going to be a beauty.

Dark by now and I decide to catch a taxi to my hotel, as I have no idea whether I’d be able to find it in the dark and I am still recovering from my train drama. Arrive at hotel/restaurant – and the door is locked. I try the next door along from it and this too is locked. Check in is from 5pm, and its gone 5, so I’m a little annoyed. Just as I’m wondering what to do, the guy opens up and I’m in. Its a strange type of place and I soon realise that I am the only guest at this hotel – so I’m feeling a little out of place. I’m shown to my room, which is freezing cold, because he hadn’t turned on the heating until now (it never really did warm up and I had to wear my goose down jacket when I wasn’t in bed). The room was nice though, quite large, good bathroom, view to the street below (would have been a nice view anyway, but the shutters were closed up) lovely thick duvets on the bed. I was given a key to the house and quickly left because I wanted to get to the Cathedral before it closed for the evening. Too late however, think it was already shut as it was in total darkness and no one hanging around it. It also appeared to have some scaffolding around it, so I gave up on that idea.

My main purpose for going to Speyer was for one reason and one reason only – to visit the Christmas Market. As I arrived in Germany just after the markets closed down for Christmas, this was my only option to get a chance to experience it. And also Speyer was pretty much on the way to my next destination, so it was a goer!! Special thanks to ‘Russ’ for telling me about the Speyer market. It was just fabulous – had an absolutely wonderful time – wandered all around the market, took another 100 photos, bought some delicious pizza – it didn’t look anything special, but boy, it tasted sooooo very good, had two mugs of gluhwein (kept the mugs for souvenirs) and bought a few treasures to take home. To make the event even more special, it snowed, and snowed, and snowed. I was a little kid in Fairyland. After two hours at the market, I had seen everything at least three times, and decided to head back to hotel. The main pedestrian street was really lovely – snow over everything, gorgeous buildings, and pretty Christmas trees (complete with decorations) up and down the street, kids being pulled along on sleds – just magic. At one end stands the Cathedral and the other end has the old town gate, which is stunning. I think its an underrated town and if I had known how nice it actually was, I would have stayed two nights, because as it was, I was leaving on the train at 9.30 the next morning, and therefore not able to see much else.