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My Magical German Christmas

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My Magical German Christmas

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Old Feb 3rd, 2011, 02:00 AM
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Hi nz101, I am really enjoying your report. Keep it coming!

Lavandula
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Old Feb 3rd, 2011, 04:11 AM
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What a wonderful time you had - thanks for sharing!

We have been to Germany 6x at Christmas and just love it.
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Old Feb 3rd, 2011, 04:24 AM
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Loving your report, nz! Speyer is one of my favorite towns in this area...so much to see and do, you would not believe!...also a shopper's paradise, and I don't even like shopping

Please, continue on.
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Old Feb 4th, 2011, 05:43 PM
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I'm enjoying your report, too. Hearing about the snow coming down sounds idyllic.

There are very few things I regret not buying, partly because of the extra weight in my suitcase, partly because I regretted most of the stuff I bought when I lived in Japan and traveled in Asia.
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Old Feb 5th, 2011, 12:47 PM
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I was thinking about your report and wanted to say that one reason I like it so much is the detail you use. It's not the kind of detail that gets boring--i.e., train times, names of places. It's your reactions and your impressions--the kids on sleds, etc..

By the way, I can't recall how many buildings in Germany and Austria have that darned scaffolding around them. I remember seeing it at St.Stephens in Vienna, Neu Schwanstein, and other places. Well, at least they don't allow these beautiful buildings to fall into disrepair.
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Old Feb 6th, 2011, 12:31 PM
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Thank you all for your positive comments, it makes me so happy. I guess I'm trying to put in alot of details and my impressions, so I don't ever forget. I did take a travel diary with me, but was I good at writing in it? of course not, so in effect this is my diary. Oh yes, I came across lots of buildings with scaffolding -I thought maybe because I was travelling during winter, they do the repairs then, so it all looks nice for the summer crowds(?)


Day 6 Wednesday, 29th December

Up early, as breakfast was at 8am (at my request when asked by the proprietor the night before), so made sure I was downstairs on time. One lonely looking place was set for breakfast in the dining room – for me - salami, some kind of ham (I think) couple of slices of cheese, bread roll and jam, with one heck of a strong coffee. Have to say that although I am no vegetarian, I am a bit funny when it comes to meat, and am certainly not used to having it for breakfast. However, being in Germany, I wanted to act the part, and so put the ham or whatever it was into my mouth. It had a strange consistency – almost raw, and I have to say I felt quite ill. I was doing my best to just swallow it without retching. It was quite bad really. Didn't want to try and spit it out as I'm sure the guy was standing looking at me from the kitchen, and I didn't want to appear rude, so I managed to get it down. Then I ate the salami which was good, considering I don't eat it normally. I was wishing there was more cheese and perhaps an egg. Well that was really my first genuine German breakfast of the trip so far and I'm pleased to say it was the worst one - it only got better after that.

I checked out, after taking some photos of the 400 year old dining area and one of a smiling proprietor, and left. I hope he doesn’t mind that I accidentally spilt a drop of gluhwein on the sheets. I had decided to walk to the railway station rather than get a taxi as I had plenty of time and wanted to take some more photos of the town on my way out. Once again, it wasn't easy with the suitcase through the snow - I had to literally drag it along as the wheels just didn't want to roll. You're probably wandering what size this case was, and to be honest I have no idea, but its one of the largest ones you can buy on wheels. The problem is that in NZ we have very limited variety when it comes to shops, so of course I wanted to fill my case while in Germany with lots of lovely things. I had honestly done my best to pack lightly and I had plenty of room left in the suitcase, but its general size, was probably just a little too much.

Anyway, I want to come back to Speyer someday definitely.

It was a short ride to Germersheim, where I changed trains to Bruchsal. All was going well until we arrived at the little village of Neudorf, and we just sat here at this station for about 15 minutes. As far as I can recall there were no announcements made, perhaps the driver was on a smoko break or something. I got increasingly worried and realised it would be a close call making my connecting train from Bruchsal to Stuttgart, and sure enough in Bruchsal my train had left about 2 minutes earlier. Surprisingly I wasn't in a panic, quite calm really, extra surprisingly as I was getting collected at Stuttgart by a friend, and as she lives an hour from the city, she would already have left home. I noticed a DB service desk actually up on the platform and I went inside with a ‘guten tag’ and asked if I had missed my train, yes I had. The guy was very good though and he printed me out the next available connection - it meant being redirected through Pforzheim and a later arrival in Stuttgart and of course on a different track from where my friend was due to meet me. I had no way to contact her, except for my cell phone, and as this would be the first time in Germany I had to use it, I was unsure whether it would actually work on roaming – it did, and whats more, she even answered. I was relieved. Yes, she had left home, but it was no problem, she would meet me at the new time and on the new track. I asked her what size Stuttgart station was and she said it was quite small with only about 20 tracks (in Auckland we have two tracks). Back on way again to Stuttgart and the scenery and terrain is quite different – there are a lot of hills and valleys and much more snow. It looks pretty. The train is becoming quite crowded - and most seats are occupied. My suitcase is standing by the doors and its a nuisance to have to keep turning to check that no one has run off with it (well I'd like to see them try, good luck with that, ha ha). Quite excited as we are entering Stuttgart - it looks like a nice place and the train seems to take an age before it stops completely. Heaps of people running about the platform, but again, I spot my friend before she sees me - her whole family have turned up to meet me, husband, two daughters and their exchange student.

Hugs all around. My first impressions of Stuttgart is that it is neat, tidy and very clean. We wander down the main pedestrian street, with lots of window shopping. We go into 'Lush' which is a store selling delicious smelling girly things. I buy myself a ridiculously expensive soap (which is now sitting in my bathroom cabinet, unused as its ‘too good’). We have a look around the main square, a beautiful old courtyard, a fabulous food market, and then pop into a cafe for lunch. It was a hectic place and I'm sure half of Stuttgart must have been out shopping. We leave Stuttgart in the family vehicle and it’s fun to be on the German autobahn. My friend lives in a little village just off the A8 halfway between Stuttgart and Ulm, it took about an hour to drive there. I'm looking forward to seeing their house and I'm not disappointed, it’s just what I imagined - typical large German country home - three levels with huge sloping roof. Everything looked so pretty, as there was even more snow in this area and all the houses were nicely decorated for Christmas - even the trees outside. Once again, I had never met this friend before, we had talked off and on over the Internet for about four years, and I only told her three weeks before I left that I was coming to Germany (as at the time I was still trying to make final plans and wasn't sure exactly where I would be). She was very excited and invited me to spend a couple of nights with her and her family. I'm so glad I did. I had a wonderful time with them, they were extremely hospitable, welcoming, and we got on very well.

That first night we went to dinner to a restaurant in the next village - they asked me if I would mind walking. Of course I didn't, though I was a little surprised as I didn’t think people would walk anywhere in the snow, in the dark. It was a 3km trek through a narrow pathway, and it was great. We went with a group of their friends, most of whom also live in the same village. The only light we had was a flame on a stick, carried by one of the men. It was a huge thing – like the Olympic torch. I’m sure I can’t buy these at home !! This was another of my ‘magic’ moments – hiking at night through the snow, with the ‘Olympic flame’, friendly people all chatting, the only child in the group being pulled on a sleigh, the big child - me, thinking I’ve gone back to fairyland, and we arrive at this village that looks just gorgeous with half timber houses to boot. I’m feeling so pleased we did the walk and not the car !!

We arrive at the restaurant and there are another 10 people or so joining our group, so it’s a very lively affair and although I’m feeling a little out of place, everybody is very nice, and I’m fine. I can’t keep away from the schnitzel and have it with fries and salad. One thing I’ve noticed is that the salad always comes out first and everyone seems to eat this before the rest of the meal arrives, like an entrée.

Back home again, and even though my 7pm bedtime of the last few nights has long gone, I manage to stay up until 2 in the morning – chatting, some drinking, and just having some laughs and a great time. My quarters for the night are on the top level, bedroom, bathroom, huge second living area with a balcony, all for me.
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Old Feb 6th, 2011, 05:56 PM
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There's a Lush in the Queen Victoria Building in Sydney - if you run out of your product I'm afraid you'll just have to come to Sydney to stock up again!

Lavandula
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Old Feb 7th, 2011, 11:11 AM
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I am really loving this trip report. We visited Bavaria and Saxony regions in early Dec. Can't wait to read where you go next.
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Old Feb 7th, 2011, 11:14 AM
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nz101:

.....keep it coming!

Will you have photo's to post next?

-john
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Old Feb 7th, 2011, 08:50 PM
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Hi John, here is a link to part 1 of my photos (took about 2,000 in all, however, just put 300 odd on facebook).

http://www.facebook.com/album.php?id...752&aid=321164

let me know if the link doesnt work. will post the next photos shortly.

Thanks Lavandula, nice to know I can pop over to Sydney when I decide to use my soap and run out of it

Thanks so much Poconolady - I really have to see more of Bavaria, love this region so much. Have you written a report of your trip?
Manda
PS my next day experience coming up soon...
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Old Feb 8th, 2011, 12:49 AM
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Great photos! Let me know if you need help with labeling them. I know on a tour, it is difficult to remember the names of all the sights.
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Old Feb 8th, 2011, 09:19 PM
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Thanks for your kind offer M.girl, there are some I'm not sure of and will definitely ask you about within the next few days.

Day 8 – 30th December

Up reasonably early considering the late night, and the fact I hadn’t slept all that well. Its still a little dark outside. We had a leisurely breakfast of delicious breads and pastries from the local bakery – this is something I could easily get used to – having cake for breaky!

Today it was decided that we would go to visit the palace at Ludwigsburg,just north of Stuttgart. We hit the autobahn and once again I enjoyed thedrive. My friends were really surprised to hear that in NZ our top speed is 100 km p/hr – they actually laughed and said that that was very slow as they like to drive at 150. Sure enough on glancing at the speedometer we were motoring along quite nicely, maybe at 130, yet it didn’t feel it - perhaps the roads are better in Germany.

Ludwigsburg – another nice looking small city. We had a bit of trouble finding the palace and a parking spot, but got there in the end. It was absolutely freezing and we had to walk about 20 minutes to the entrance. We were just in time to join the English tour and I was surprised at the turn out – must have been a crowd of about 30 of us. The palace here is the best preserved baroque style in all of Germany and it certainly was worth the visit. The tour lasted about 2.5 hours and the guide was interesting and funny. It was almost as cold inside as it was out because there was no heating – too large and too expensive. We were shown many many rooms of the palace, and for me the most memorable were: the room of mirrors, the stunning little baroque church (which is used nowadays for weddings) and the theatre. Afterwards we spent time in the main courtyard, which had heaps and heaps of snow, and took photos under the massive Christmas tree and in and around the sleigh with Santa Claus.

Home again, and we spent the evening cooking, having some nice wine and special schnapps, viewing the photos I had taken of NZ, and talking and laughing lots. It was great. Another late night, 2am, needed match sticks for my eyes. My friends hadn’t realised how beautiful NZ really was until they viewed my photos, some of which they compared to the Italian lakes, but since I’ve not yet made it to the Italian lakes, I can’t confirm.

Dinner was schnitzel with minced beef on top, and covered in a sauce to die for,m y friend’s special homemade noodles (which I thought resembled fettuccini, can’t remember the correct name of it, but it’s a speciality in Baden-Wurtternberg) together with a salad.

Tomorrow I'm on my own again...

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Old Feb 8th, 2011, 11:02 PM
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nz101, I've only just found your report and I'm up to Day 2. I was almost in tears just reading about the singing in Church. Sounds beautiful. Thanks for the great descriptive writing. Love it. Must keep reading.
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Old Feb 8th, 2011, 11:44 PM
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Finally, I'm up to Day 8. Wow. I'm planning a family trip to Europe for the end of this year (from Australia). I love the way you get a lot done but seem to take your time doing it, does that make sense? Although, I don't envy you the bag,the stairs and running for trains!! Great inspirational stuff. Thanks
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Old Feb 9th, 2011, 11:06 AM
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nz101: I like your report! The noodles are probably Spaetzle, by the way.
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Old Feb 9th, 2011, 11:24 AM
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Thomo7, thank you, glad you like the report. At times it sure was difficult with the luggage and trains, but now I look back and have a good laugh at myself . Are you going over for Christmas? - I reckon there is nowhere better than Xmas in Europe!

Hans, thanks, that name rings a bell now, I know I was told the name of the noodles, but I have a memory like a sieve and it goes in one ear and out the other!
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Old Feb 10th, 2011, 10:33 PM
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Day ? 8 - I think – Been in Germany a week, two more to go. Don’t like the thought that I am a third of the way through already

Friday, 31st December, New Year’s Eve - woohoo and New Year's Eve in Germany, a double woohoo

Up early this morning and I’m taking last minute pictures outside my bedroom window. We have another yummy breakfast of yoghurt, pastries, bread and cake from the evening before! We’re a bit rushed as we need to be out the door at 9.15am. I have to catch the train from Goppingen, a half hour away. It’s a very pleasant drive, through towns and up and down hills. I don’t even mind being stuck behind a hay truck, and of course there is snow everywhere.

The train is on time and there are lots of hugs and goodbyes. I’m feel sad to be leaving actually. I’ve had a great time and everyone has been so welcoming and very kind. But life goes on and I have to as well, I know I can’t stay here forever.

I’m on this train just for 30 minutes – and kind of going the 'wrong' direction, I have to change at Stuttgart Bad Cannstatt and that goes smoothly, I believe – can’t actually remember, so it must have done Then its just the one train all the way to Nuremberg – 2.5 hours. As the trains I’m on are regional ones, there are lots of stops on the way and various people getting off and on – I really enjoy the people watching, its so interesting.

At one point I’m sitting opposite a friendly looking woman who is also weighed down by luggage. She tries to talk to me, but alas she doesn’t speak English and I don’t speak whatever language it is she is talking – so we just smile lots at each other. Another missed opportunity. For some reason I think she is Swiss, but this may be because she is wearing all red and white. I have no idea really.

I don't mind sitting on trains watching the world go by (its a novelty for me) but as the time goes by I am beginning to feel a little down and glum. I'm sitting there on the train exchanging text messages with family and friends back in NZ - who have already hit the New Year - it seems odd when here I am sitting on a train, surrounded in snow, its only midday and I'm thinking that back home, its the middle of the night, and New Year has been and gone. And, aren't text messages amazing? - from a train in the middle of Germany, right around the world to New Zealand.

In no time at all I arrive at Nuremberg station. I have around 15 minutes here. The place is absolute mayhem, crowded and everybody in a rush. Its like people are coming at me from all directions and I'm really feeling like a fish out of water and very much a foreigner in a strange land - its not a nice feeling. I have a difficult time trying to find the ladies rooms and almost give up, but I don't like using the ones on the trains, as I can't leave my luggage unattended. Anyway I did find it, think it was called 'McClean' - of all things - and here I was searching for 'WC'. Anyway, I pay my one euro fee and fortunately they have a special entry for people with large bags! Then its a mad dash back to the platform and make sure to get on the correct train.

About 40 minutes later I get off the train, and I find the place I want to retire to - Beautiful Beautiful Bamberg - I just know from the first glimpse that it is something special. Before leaving the station, I buy a few supplies from the small supermarket - cheese, nuts, drink, apples - anything that takes my fancy.

I realise in my rush when leaving home in NZ that I had forgotten to print out the map and directions for the hotel, so I get a taxi, it cost about 7 euro, but well worth it because I'd never have found the place on my own. I'm staying at the Hotel Alt Bamberg. The location couldn't have been better - on a small cobblestone street right around the corner from the river and the main shopping street. It was terrific. The guy at the front desk was very friendly and helpful and he even carried my suitcase up the stairs - he asked me if I had brought some special rocks from NZ ! The cheek of him. My room was basic and small, but clean, warm and quiet - it had a window looking out to a courtyard and someone's front door. It had a comfortable bed, bathroom, telephone and my TV, so that was all I needed. I sorted out my gear and then hit the streets while it was still light.

I'm loving Bamberg from the very first minute. I walk around and about just following my nose and nothing in particular, and taking lots and lots of photos. I end up at the old medieval courtyard and it is truly lovely - complete with Christmas tree and lights in the middle of the square. There is no one about and its kind of eerie. Darkness is on its way and I end up inside the Bamberg Dom - and get told off for snapping a picture - the service is about to start I am told - I decide to stay as I have nothing else to do and nowhere else to go and its New Year's Eve after all - it was a long while however before anything happened. It went from just a few people inside to absolutely packed full, standing room only - and I could mostly hear German voices. Again, I was feeling terribly low, and had a bit of a sob to myself, but I'm glad to have stayed for the service, the singing was lovely, but not quite as great as at the church in Frankfurt (well that would be hard to beat).

It was about 6pm when the service ended and I wasn't sure quite what to do with myself. It was cold and I didn't feel like I could sit inside a restaurant or at a gluhwein stand for the next 6 hours waiting for midnight, so I went back to my hotel room. For dinner I ate my nuts and raisins and cheese and washed it down with some sparkling wine. I sat on my bed and watched some special New Year's Eve shows, and dozed off every now and again - obviously tired from my earlier late nights.

I must have eventually passed out because I woke up at 11.56pm - with a bit of a shock. Heard some music outside and decided that there is no way I could stay in bed on New Year's Eve in such a place like Bamberg (my friends back home would kill me if I did). Heavens, what a rush, threw on my boots - without bothering to do the laces up, threw on my jumper, inside out, who cares, grabbed jacket, scarfe, hat and gloves, and flew out the door, along the corridors, down the stairs and out into the street, and into the craziest firework scenes I've ever seen. There was music playing, people everywhere, and fireworks absolutely going off in all directions - they were just thrown anywhere and everywhere - at one stage me and someone else had to literally jump out of the way to avoid a set of fireworks that were whizzing and darting all around us - screaming as we did so. It was hilarious and lots and lots of fun. I took another heap of photos and videos and the snow was coming down. People were dancing in the streets and on bridges. Hundreds and hundreds of booze bottles of all descriptions were lying all over the place, including along the top of walls, bridges, etc - I briefly wondered who would be cleaning that lot up and how long it would take them! I was also wondering what would happen if some of these fireworks happened to land on historic buildings and am really surprised that they are allowed anywhere near the old town - it could be so disastrous.

Anyway, I'm so glad I forced myself to get out of bed - it was a great end to a very lonely day and the most memorable New Year's Eve I've ever had, will never forget it. Bamberg is now well and truly etched into my brain - the good, the bad and the ugly.
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Old Feb 13th, 2011, 03:59 AM
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Bamberg is definately on my "to visit" list for my next German adventure!
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Old Feb 13th, 2011, 04:52 AM
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Hello nz101

I'm loving your report. Glad it popped up this morning so I could find it!

Your experience in the St. Nickolai Church reminds me of a most special Easter service we attended at St. Mark's in Venice. Very moving indeed.

When we fly thru Frankfurt, we generally stay in Mainz the last night. But your descriptions of Frankfurt sound so wonderful that I think I'd like to give it a try.

Good job!
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Old Feb 13th, 2011, 04:59 AM
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Ooooh, meant to add that I'm not a Facebook member and can't view your photos without a password.
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