Murder-suicide, family fighting, and insanity: Only an idiot (me) would plan both a kitchen remodel and a trip to Paris at the same time....
May 17th, 2006, 04:45 PM
#43
Join Date: May 2006
Posts: 2
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Marvelous! My family, 2 semi-adults and the 4 children (ages 9,11,13,16) are going to London and Paris in 40 days. The posting gives us a real feel and flair of the city. This is something my extensive research (which will be wasted on the 4 ungrateful miscreants)does not provide me. Although we too are undergoing an extensive renovation it is outside and no one has committed suicide, yet. Although I am ready to committ murder as we finish our 5th month of a 4 week project. I am especially happy to see the latest posting...the kitchen is finished and in its proper use. This gives me hope that our large, new, hardscaped patio may too come to a proper and joyful conclusion. If not, I may just stay in Paris with the wife....and send the kids home. Please keep up the wonderful descriptions of your trip
May 17th, 2006, 06:59 PM
#44
Join Date: Jan 2003
Posts: 1,292
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
dcd - you are so lucky to have Michael available to guide you. I was the first person on his April calender when we arranged for guiding on April 17th - just a couple days before you arrived. Just before we left for Paris Micheal cancelled us - said he had to take an emergency trip -so it looks like he got back just in time to be with you. I was so dissapointed.
May 17th, 2006, 07:33 PM
#45
Dinner was outstanding. She's too good to me. I did want to address the other questions.
WestonTraveller, we both enjoyed the Hotel de Varenne. It has to be among the best bangs for the buck in Paris. I'm sure you've seen their website. It's on a quiet street which is fairly commercial. Some Parisian streets feature those long and beautiful buildings with wrought iron on every window. Not here. But they aren't far away. The neighborhood is very safe due to the presence of many governmental offices nearby. Apparently it's among the more pricier districts to live in. This is not the action area of Paris where you step out into a street full of people with cafes galore. There are, however, restaurants, a grocery store, and some bakeries very close by. We did not eat the Hotel's breakfast. Thought it was overprices at 10E each. Plus, my DW wanted to eat healthy. I'd hit the bakeries each morning and grab something delicious and decadent for less than 3E. We kept OJ in the frig. The hotel has a small front desk where 5-7 people rotate to provide 24/7 coverage. They have a map to some nearby French restaurants (5-15 minute walk). They'll gladly make reservations, call cabs, etc. Most were nice although pretty reserved. That may be fairly normal for Paris. They seem to pride themselves on being professional. So while it's small like a B&B, do not expect them to fall over themselves to make you feel warm and fuzzy. The building and rooms were renovated not too long ago so everything works well and looks new. The bed was very comfortable. We hit one snag at checkout. While they claim to take Mastercard, their machine wouldn't take my card. Everyone else in Paris did and there was still plenty left on my limit to cover the bill. Also, the card worked as soon as we returned to the States. The desk person said it was a problem at their end. Fortunately, I had a backup Visa card which was accepted. If you haven't done so already, I'd urge you to check out the hotel's reviews on tripadvisor.com. We thought they were very accurate. We wouldn't hesitate to stay there again.
Broakbank, be my guest but please understand that I can't be responsible for any brains permanently damaged or corrupted by my drivel!
WestonTraveller, we both enjoyed the Hotel de Varenne. It has to be among the best bangs for the buck in Paris. I'm sure you've seen their website. It's on a quiet street which is fairly commercial. Some Parisian streets feature those long and beautiful buildings with wrought iron on every window. Not here. But they aren't far away. The neighborhood is very safe due to the presence of many governmental offices nearby. Apparently it's among the more pricier districts to live in. This is not the action area of Paris where you step out into a street full of people with cafes galore. There are, however, restaurants, a grocery store, and some bakeries very close by. We did not eat the Hotel's breakfast. Thought it was overprices at 10E each. Plus, my DW wanted to eat healthy. I'd hit the bakeries each morning and grab something delicious and decadent for less than 3E. We kept OJ in the frig. The hotel has a small front desk where 5-7 people rotate to provide 24/7 coverage. They have a map to some nearby French restaurants (5-15 minute walk). They'll gladly make reservations, call cabs, etc. Most were nice although pretty reserved. That may be fairly normal for Paris. They seem to pride themselves on being professional. So while it's small like a B&B, do not expect them to fall over themselves to make you feel warm and fuzzy. The building and rooms were renovated not too long ago so everything works well and looks new. The bed was very comfortable. We hit one snag at checkout. While they claim to take Mastercard, their machine wouldn't take my card. Everyone else in Paris did and there was still plenty left on my limit to cover the bill. Also, the card worked as soon as we returned to the States. The desk person said it was a problem at their end. Fortunately, I had a backup Visa card which was accepted. If you haven't done so already, I'd urge you to check out the hotel's reviews on tripadvisor.com. We thought they were very accurate. We wouldn't hesitate to stay there again.
Broakbank, be my guest but please understand that I can't be responsible for any brains permanently damaged or corrupted by my drivel!
May 18th, 2006, 05:52 PM
#47
Join Date: Jan 2006
Posts: 60
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
dcd-
Thanks for the info! I am glad to hear that your feedback matches what I have read on tripadvisor.
On this board, though, I have often read posts where people suggested the 6th because the 7th was "too quiet", and wondered what they meant. In doing my research, the Varenne (which was recommended by a friend of a friend) sounded like the nicest option for my budget ($200 or less/night... I booked a superior twin room for 168 euros).I will email to ask about the Mastercard situation, since I am planning to use mine.
Is there internet access from the room?
If you think of any other tips, please let me know...
Thanks!!!
Thanks for the info! I am glad to hear that your feedback matches what I have read on tripadvisor.
On this board, though, I have often read posts where people suggested the 6th because the 7th was "too quiet", and wondered what they meant. In doing my research, the Varenne (which was recommended by a friend of a friend) sounded like the nicest option for my budget ($200 or less/night... I booked a superior twin room for 168 euros).I will email to ask about the Mastercard situation, since I am planning to use mine.
Is there internet access from the room?
If you think of any other tips, please let me know...
Thanks!!!
May 19th, 2006, 05:09 AM
#51
Part 6
It's now Monday morning. Mornings have become my favorite part of the day. As I wander back into my now favorite bakery, I feel the anxiety start to rise. Mind you, this is the good kind of anxiety. Not being able to read the lables attached to each section of the mouthwatering temptations and not having x-ray vision, I'm torn between trying something new and risking disappointment or going with the tried and true. It's not like I could pass an apple filled pastry to DW if I guessed wrong. So I play it safe. I buy 2. One croissant and one rectangular looking thing with a sweet glaze on top. I take a bite out of each before returning to the room so I could Deep 6 one if necessary and she'd never be the wiser. It turns out to be win-win. Little did I know those extra calories were going to come in handy today.
Before heading downstairs to meet Michael at 9:30am, we make sure the backpack includes the raincoats and unbrellas despite the sunny start to the day. We do this every morning for the next four days. And, of course, no rain.
Michael takes us to a huge Greek looking building that is surrounded by these massive columns. This is La Madeleine, or Napoleon's Church. Inside, the marble and gilt walls, the corinthian columns, and the painted cupola with the Pope welcoming Napoleon make for a church unlike any other we'd seen in the city. Well worth a visit.
Across the street, my DW spies Boutique Maille, a mustard specialty shop and the only one in Paris. They offer 36 varieties of mustards in all different sized jars. In addition to "Honey" and "3 Herbs", there's "Brittany Algae and Shallot", "Cognac", "Modena Balsamic Vinegar", and "Blue Cheese". DW picks up about 12 jars as souvenirs for her family and figures they'll fit in my backpack. Oh, she's right about that, but its only 10:30am and our day is just beginning. As I stagger out of the shop and head for the Lourve, I'm figuring those pastries will have to provide enough energy until lunch when I can reload with more decadence.
If you don't have Michael to show you around the Lourve, bring a GPS system and you might be able to navigate the maze of corridors, staircases, and elevators. We spend several hours there, seeing many of the biggees. There are more than 30,000 works of art on display. Simply mind boggling. We don't even scratch the surface before deciding it's time to move on.
Outside, the Tuileries Gardens are in full bloom while tourists and Parisians alike spread out on her lush, green carpet and enjoy the sunny Spring day. Nearby we find a cafe and I drop anchor. My back may never forgive me.
We then say au revoir to Michael and take a new route home. For dinner, we stay in the 7th and try the Cafe de l'esplanade, 52 re Fabert. DW hopes to eat reasonably healthy so she orders the spinach salad and penne rigate with a side of green beans. The salad was soaked in oil and the pasta and beans were swimming in butter...... I guess it's going to be a baguette and more mystery cheese tomorrow night. I have escargot in a garlic butter sauce and crispy duck plus the side bowl of butter and beans. I liked my meal.
It's now Monday morning. Mornings have become my favorite part of the day. As I wander back into my now favorite bakery, I feel the anxiety start to rise. Mind you, this is the good kind of anxiety. Not being able to read the lables attached to each section of the mouthwatering temptations and not having x-ray vision, I'm torn between trying something new and risking disappointment or going with the tried and true. It's not like I could pass an apple filled pastry to DW if I guessed wrong. So I play it safe. I buy 2. One croissant and one rectangular looking thing with a sweet glaze on top. I take a bite out of each before returning to the room so I could Deep 6 one if necessary and she'd never be the wiser. It turns out to be win-win. Little did I know those extra calories were going to come in handy today.
Before heading downstairs to meet Michael at 9:30am, we make sure the backpack includes the raincoats and unbrellas despite the sunny start to the day. We do this every morning for the next four days. And, of course, no rain.
Michael takes us to a huge Greek looking building that is surrounded by these massive columns. This is La Madeleine, or Napoleon's Church. Inside, the marble and gilt walls, the corinthian columns, and the painted cupola with the Pope welcoming Napoleon make for a church unlike any other we'd seen in the city. Well worth a visit.
Across the street, my DW spies Boutique Maille, a mustard specialty shop and the only one in Paris. They offer 36 varieties of mustards in all different sized jars. In addition to "Honey" and "3 Herbs", there's "Brittany Algae and Shallot", "Cognac", "Modena Balsamic Vinegar", and "Blue Cheese". DW picks up about 12 jars as souvenirs for her family and figures they'll fit in my backpack. Oh, she's right about that, but its only 10:30am and our day is just beginning. As I stagger out of the shop and head for the Lourve, I'm figuring those pastries will have to provide enough energy until lunch when I can reload with more decadence.
If you don't have Michael to show you around the Lourve, bring a GPS system and you might be able to navigate the maze of corridors, staircases, and elevators. We spend several hours there, seeing many of the biggees. There are more than 30,000 works of art on display. Simply mind boggling. We don't even scratch the surface before deciding it's time to move on.
Outside, the Tuileries Gardens are in full bloom while tourists and Parisians alike spread out on her lush, green carpet and enjoy the sunny Spring day. Nearby we find a cafe and I drop anchor. My back may never forgive me.
We then say au revoir to Michael and take a new route home. For dinner, we stay in the 7th and try the Cafe de l'esplanade, 52 re Fabert. DW hopes to eat reasonably healthy so she orders the spinach salad and penne rigate with a side of green beans. The salad was soaked in oil and the pasta and beans were swimming in butter...... I guess it's going to be a baguette and more mystery cheese tomorrow night. I have escargot in a garlic butter sauce and crispy duck plus the side bowl of butter and beans. I liked my meal.
May 21st, 2006, 05:36 PM
#53
Tuesday begins with my obligatory bakery run. Convinced that my backpack may once again be stuffed with lord knows what and that a high fat, high calorie breakfast is the best defense to such a possibility, I double up again....
DW and I gave Michael the day off. We walk to the nearby Les Invalides which is a church, a veterans hospital, an arms museum, and Napoleon's final resting space. I redeem myself with the quick purchase of a couple of audio headsets and we're soon learning the history of the buildings. On the lower level, an enormous, decorative, and wooden casket rests on a pedistal holding the general's remains. High above the casket is that incredible dome. It took us about 45 minutes to finish the self guided tour. We thought the audioset was worth the money.
Next stop is the Rodin Museum, located practically next to our hotel. We aren't much into sculpture so we figured we'd blow in, gaze intellectually at The Thinker, and blow out. But we weren't counting on more than 500 incredible sculptures beautifully displayed in his former mansion and surrounding gardens. Get the headsets here, too. Not knowing anything about this artist, we came to be fascinated by his life and his works. The gardens were in full bloom, giving his masterpieces something to admire. In case you become converts like us, we'd recommend allowing at least a couple of hours here to make good use of the headsets and to leisurely stroll about the gardens.
We grab a sandwich to go, enjoy it in the hotel's courtyard, and at 1:45pm we hop into a ParisVision van destined for Giverny. We're joined only by a young lady/student from Taiwan. We're huge fans of Monet and the other Impressionists so we're really looking forward to this venture. The weather cooperates, too. Our driver gives us a nice travel log on our way out there. We pass by the Arc de Triumph and cruise the Camps de'Elysees, deciding we needn't return there. In about 45 minutes and after passing through the idyllic countryside, we reach Monet's house. Monet spent his last 43 years here. Interestingly, after his death in 1926, the home and gardens fell into great disrepair. After years of major surgery in the 1970s, they are opened to the public in 1980. Apparently considerable effort was spent recreating the house and gardens as they were at the time of Monet's death. They did a splendid job.
His elongated, 2 story house is pink with green shutters. The front yard, which spans beyond the width of the home and is maybe 50 yards deep, consists entirely of one large, well manicured garden filled with all kinds of blooming flowers. The occasional tree and shrub provide nice accents. We're told the gardeners rotate the flowers throughout the growing seasons to make sure something is always blooming. Inside, the walls are lined with Monet's collection of Asian art; his large studio now features reproductions of many of his paintings depicting the grounds and surrounding area; and the dining room and kitchen retain their bright yellow and blue french country colors.
We then walk to the nearby water garden and its famous Japanese bridge. A meandering path takes us over small bridges and around the large pond. Not hard to understand why Money found great inspiration here. We're too early for the water lilies though. Next time.
From there we walk the half mile or so down a charming country lane (rue de Monet) to the American Museum where we enjoy its collection of American and European paintings and its gardens. Another half mile down the same road takes us to Monet's grave.
As a sidenote for anyone interested in this particular ParisVision tour (and probably any competitor's tour), it does not include any guided tours. You're paying for the ride (and commentary) to and from, plus the admission tickets for Monet's house and gardens and for the American Museum. We had about 3 hours of free time to fit everything in and felt a little rushed doing so. Next time we'd probably take the train from Paris to the city of Vernon, which is as close as you can get to Giverny by rail, and then either take a cab or rent a bike to cover the remaining 4 km to Giverny.
One thing this tour did include was a ride in and around Paris that was better than any E ride at Disney. DW and I just stared in amazement as our driver (as well as lots of others) weaved in and out of rush hour like traffic at will, without changing speeds and without drawing so much as a single, cacophonous blare from another driver's horn. Our driver explained that its's illegal to blare the horn in the city absent an emergency.... I think he also forgot to mention what appeared to be the cardinal rule of the road. Turn on your blinker and the road is yours!! Has to be. One time our guy needed to take an exit which was less than a quarter mile away and he was in the passing lane, six lanes away. I'm thinking no way. But smooth as silk he does. By now my DW, who prides herself on being a conservative and safe driver, has decided to self-censor and closes her eyes. Then there were times when the bright, white painted lanes were being uniformly disregarded at the same time by six drivers abreast!!! To think we didn't see a single accident despite the fact everyone was driving like this is incredible. Safe to say we won't be renting a car the next time we're in Paris.
This evening's dinner was indeed a baguette, store bought mystery meat which looked like and even tasted a little like Canadian bacon, goat cheese, and more red wine. Pretty darn good, too.
It was a beautiful evening for a walk. We headed for the Pont Neuf to catch the 9:00pm Vedettes river boat cruise. Our trek took us along the Seine where we walked hand in hand as the sun slowly let down her guard. This is Paris at her best.
The Vedettes cruise does not include dinner, lasts an hour, includes live commentary, and picks up and drops off at the same place. We take our seats on the upper/second deck which is open air (no roof) and provides the best views. There's a bit of a chill in the air, perfect for snuggling. We highly recommend this cruise company and in particular their dusk to dark cruise. For an hour, we were transfixed by the twinkling, glowing and quiet lights of Paris. Very magical and romantic. We, too, now know why she is called the City of Lights.
DW and I gave Michael the day off. We walk to the nearby Les Invalides which is a church, a veterans hospital, an arms museum, and Napoleon's final resting space. I redeem myself with the quick purchase of a couple of audio headsets and we're soon learning the history of the buildings. On the lower level, an enormous, decorative, and wooden casket rests on a pedistal holding the general's remains. High above the casket is that incredible dome. It took us about 45 minutes to finish the self guided tour. We thought the audioset was worth the money.
Next stop is the Rodin Museum, located practically next to our hotel. We aren't much into sculpture so we figured we'd blow in, gaze intellectually at The Thinker, and blow out. But we weren't counting on more than 500 incredible sculptures beautifully displayed in his former mansion and surrounding gardens. Get the headsets here, too. Not knowing anything about this artist, we came to be fascinated by his life and his works. The gardens were in full bloom, giving his masterpieces something to admire. In case you become converts like us, we'd recommend allowing at least a couple of hours here to make good use of the headsets and to leisurely stroll about the gardens.
We grab a sandwich to go, enjoy it in the hotel's courtyard, and at 1:45pm we hop into a ParisVision van destined for Giverny. We're joined only by a young lady/student from Taiwan. We're huge fans of Monet and the other Impressionists so we're really looking forward to this venture. The weather cooperates, too. Our driver gives us a nice travel log on our way out there. We pass by the Arc de Triumph and cruise the Camps de'Elysees, deciding we needn't return there. In about 45 minutes and after passing through the idyllic countryside, we reach Monet's house. Monet spent his last 43 years here. Interestingly, after his death in 1926, the home and gardens fell into great disrepair. After years of major surgery in the 1970s, they are opened to the public in 1980. Apparently considerable effort was spent recreating the house and gardens as they were at the time of Monet's death. They did a splendid job.
His elongated, 2 story house is pink with green shutters. The front yard, which spans beyond the width of the home and is maybe 50 yards deep, consists entirely of one large, well manicured garden filled with all kinds of blooming flowers. The occasional tree and shrub provide nice accents. We're told the gardeners rotate the flowers throughout the growing seasons to make sure something is always blooming. Inside, the walls are lined with Monet's collection of Asian art; his large studio now features reproductions of many of his paintings depicting the grounds and surrounding area; and the dining room and kitchen retain their bright yellow and blue french country colors.
We then walk to the nearby water garden and its famous Japanese bridge. A meandering path takes us over small bridges and around the large pond. Not hard to understand why Money found great inspiration here. We're too early for the water lilies though. Next time.
From there we walk the half mile or so down a charming country lane (rue de Monet) to the American Museum where we enjoy its collection of American and European paintings and its gardens. Another half mile down the same road takes us to Monet's grave.
As a sidenote for anyone interested in this particular ParisVision tour (and probably any competitor's tour), it does not include any guided tours. You're paying for the ride (and commentary) to and from, plus the admission tickets for Monet's house and gardens and for the American Museum. We had about 3 hours of free time to fit everything in and felt a little rushed doing so. Next time we'd probably take the train from Paris to the city of Vernon, which is as close as you can get to Giverny by rail, and then either take a cab or rent a bike to cover the remaining 4 km to Giverny.
One thing this tour did include was a ride in and around Paris that was better than any E ride at Disney. DW and I just stared in amazement as our driver (as well as lots of others) weaved in and out of rush hour like traffic at will, without changing speeds and without drawing so much as a single, cacophonous blare from another driver's horn. Our driver explained that its's illegal to blare the horn in the city absent an emergency.... I think he also forgot to mention what appeared to be the cardinal rule of the road. Turn on your blinker and the road is yours!! Has to be. One time our guy needed to take an exit which was less than a quarter mile away and he was in the passing lane, six lanes away. I'm thinking no way. But smooth as silk he does. By now my DW, who prides herself on being a conservative and safe driver, has decided to self-censor and closes her eyes. Then there were times when the bright, white painted lanes were being uniformly disregarded at the same time by six drivers abreast!!! To think we didn't see a single accident despite the fact everyone was driving like this is incredible. Safe to say we won't be renting a car the next time we're in Paris.
This evening's dinner was indeed a baguette, store bought mystery meat which looked like and even tasted a little like Canadian bacon, goat cheese, and more red wine. Pretty darn good, too.
It was a beautiful evening for a walk. We headed for the Pont Neuf to catch the 9:00pm Vedettes river boat cruise. Our trek took us along the Seine where we walked hand in hand as the sun slowly let down her guard. This is Paris at her best.
The Vedettes cruise does not include dinner, lasts an hour, includes live commentary, and picks up and drops off at the same place. We take our seats on the upper/second deck which is open air (no roof) and provides the best views. There's a bit of a chill in the air, perfect for snuggling. We highly recommend this cruise company and in particular their dusk to dark cruise. For an hour, we were transfixed by the twinkling, glowing and quiet lights of Paris. Very magical and romantic. We, too, now know why she is called the City of Lights.
Jul 23rd, 2006, 12:06 PM
#54
It's now Wednesday morning. After loading up on more of those wonderful calories, Michael greets us at 9:30. It would be our last day together. We walk to the D'Orsay, the museum my DW and I had been anticipating the most. Gorgeous edifice befitting the masterpieces within. We were in the midst of Art History 101 on the 1st floor when the PA guy asks everyone to head for the exits. Michael says he's become all too familiar with these announcements and is hoping we wouldn't have to leave. Apparently in these post 9/11 days, it doesn't take much for the security staff to issue the red alert. So for the next 10 minutes we walk very, very slowly toward the exit through several galleries, stalling as best we can, when the next announcement asks the person who left their black briefcase on the 2nd floor to kindly retrieve it. Fortunately the bomb squad did not have to be called in because shortly thereafter, the all clear is given. Our tour resumes. We eventually make our way to the 3rd floor, home to most of the Impressionists' paintings. Nirvana for us. The galleries weren't too crowded and Michael was clearly in his element. Lots of keen insights and amusing anecdotes I doubt we could have found in the guidebooks. There's a movie about Monet off in a corner room which is not well marked. It's one of those continuously playing documentaries that is really worth viewing. Gives you a chance to sit down, too.
Around 2:00pm, we've had our fill and head for a cafe. We settle for the Cafe Le Terminus, 5 rue du Bac. In need of an energy boost, I ordered a large Coke lite. This would become one of those live and learn moments. Yes, it was large and refreshing but no, it was not worth 8 #@&* euros.... Oh well, the french onion soup was very good. In fact, the food was better than the location. Our table faced a fairly busy street, apparently on one of the bus routes. Between the roar of the engines and the exhaust, we'd pick someplace else next time.
Re-energized, Michael leads us to the Chapel of Our Lady of the Miraculous Medal. Very moving. DW picks up a souvenier medal for her mother and off we head to St. Sulpice where DW can bring more of the Da Vinci Code to life. St. Sulpice is well worth a visit, if for no other reason than its location. Right next to Pierre Herme, 72 rue Bonapart, and home of the most decadent, mouthwatering, want to get sick eating them macroons. Unfortunately, there are only 2 locations in Paris, none close to our hotel. Michael explains that not all macroons are created equal which I would later confirm as I tried others with considerable disappointment.
To walk off some of those calories, we stroll through the Luxembourgh Gardens. Lots of people were still enjoying the late afternoon sun. A truly beautiful park. Lakes, trees, flowers, manicured lawns, park benches, etc, etc. Well worth a visit.
It's now close to 7:00pm and time to bid a sad farewell to our new friend. We would miss Michael's humor, knowledge and companionship for the remainder of our stay. He is a gem.
We wander back to the hotel, exploring new streets and their sights and sounds. Dinner was again en suite with a bottle of wine, Canadian bacon (or at least something that looked like it), baguette, and goat cheese. Love is in the air.
Around 2:00pm, we've had our fill and head for a cafe. We settle for the Cafe Le Terminus, 5 rue du Bac. In need of an energy boost, I ordered a large Coke lite. This would become one of those live and learn moments. Yes, it was large and refreshing but no, it was not worth 8 #@&* euros.... Oh well, the french onion soup was very good. In fact, the food was better than the location. Our table faced a fairly busy street, apparently on one of the bus routes. Between the roar of the engines and the exhaust, we'd pick someplace else next time.
Re-energized, Michael leads us to the Chapel of Our Lady of the Miraculous Medal. Very moving. DW picks up a souvenier medal for her mother and off we head to St. Sulpice where DW can bring more of the Da Vinci Code to life. St. Sulpice is well worth a visit, if for no other reason than its location. Right next to Pierre Herme, 72 rue Bonapart, and home of the most decadent, mouthwatering, want to get sick eating them macroons. Unfortunately, there are only 2 locations in Paris, none close to our hotel. Michael explains that not all macroons are created equal which I would later confirm as I tried others with considerable disappointment.
To walk off some of those calories, we stroll through the Luxembourgh Gardens. Lots of people were still enjoying the late afternoon sun. A truly beautiful park. Lakes, trees, flowers, manicured lawns, park benches, etc, etc. Well worth a visit.
It's now close to 7:00pm and time to bid a sad farewell to our new friend. We would miss Michael's humor, knowledge and companionship for the remainder of our stay. He is a gem.
We wander back to the hotel, exploring new streets and their sights and sounds. Dinner was again en suite with a bottle of wine, Canadian bacon (or at least something that looked like it), baguette, and goat cheese. Love is in the air.
Jul 23rd, 2006, 01:25 PM
#55
Running out of time to read in full [and clearly that is a must] but please, please tell me - what the ....are a mud pool and a powder room? What do you do in them? Why? would I like one? Obviously I lead a sheltered life here in west Cornwall.
Jul 23rd, 2006, 01:40 PM
#56
Join Date: Sep 2004
Posts: 45,322
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Well hello dcd, what a nice surprise to see the next installment of your Paris trip. Again, it is so enjoyable.
The Rodin Museum and gardens have always been the main things I have wanted to visit in Paris.
And how is the kitchen etc. remodeling coming along. Is the job finished? I have a few friends that have been renovating their kitchens for months and they have certainly been more patient that I would be.
annhig, a "mudroom" is normally a small room between the back exterior door and the kitchen where one can leave muddy boots or shoes, hang up jackets etc. A powder room is a guestbathroom with normally just a toilet and sink (no tub or shower) so that guest do not have to use the family's bathroom(s). Best regards.
The Rodin Museum and gardens have always been the main things I have wanted to visit in Paris.
And how is the kitchen etc. remodeling coming along. Is the job finished? I have a few friends that have been renovating their kitchens for months and they have certainly been more patient that I would be.
annhig, a "mudroom" is normally a small room between the back exterior door and the kitchen where one can leave muddy boots or shoes, hang up jackets etc. A powder room is a guestbathroom with normally just a toilet and sink (no tub or shower) so that guest do not have to use the family's bathroom(s). Best regards.
Jul 23rd, 2006, 01:59 PM
#57
LoveItaly, good to hear from you again. I've been very busy at work and today I'm determined to finish this report. The kitchen is wonderful, worth all the aggravation and stress. We both love to cook, not that were gourmets or anything, and it's very nice having a functional, beautiful kitchen. Thanks for asking.
Annhig, LoveItaly answered your questions better than I could.
Thursday morning found us riding the metro to the 16th Arr (Muette stop) in search of the Musee Marmottan. It wasn't too hard to find. For all you Monet lovers, I urge you to make the trip. This museum is set in a residential area and used to be a private mansion. It now houses the largest collection of Monets in the world. I'd guess 30-40. This collection had been at Giverny and was donated largely by Monet's son, Michael. Very impressive. But the museum pass is not accepted here. Entrance fee is 8E.
It was about lunch time when we had finished gawking. We headed back to the metro and found a great cafe with a non-smoking section (sorry can't remember the cafe's name) directly across the street from the Muette stop. We each ordered an omlette (with potatos mixed in) and now we know why they're legendary in Paris. Best ever.
We hopped back on the metro and took a long ride on line 13 to just outside the city limits. Very different crowd out there. Younger and more urban. Our destination was the Basilica St. Denis where most of the French Kings and Queens are buried. Their tombs are scattered about the main floor and in the crypt. The biggees are here, including Louis XVI and Marie-Antoinette. This is a very large and imposing Gothic structure. Well worth the trip.
Keeping with the dead people theme, we got back on the metro and headed for the Pere-Lachaise Cemetary. Got there at 6:05pm, 5 minutes after closing.... My only screwup. Next time.
We then headed for Ille St. Louis where we strolled around the streets, all 2 of them. We bought some balsamic vinegar and enjoyed a sorbet from Berthillon. By the way, we hit the first Berthillon we saw just after arriving and patiently waited in line, not realizing there were several just down the street with no lines.
We walked home along the Seine. Tonite we were having dinner at the Musee D'Orsay. They have a beautiful dining room on the 2nd floor. The ceilings must be 20 feet and are painted. Looking at the room and the well dressed waiters, you'd think it was tre expensive but not so. Michael put us on to this place. Our meals were very good. To cap things off, we splurged on a couple of glasses of French champagne.
Then, as I was getting ready to leave, it dawned on me that my backpack, which held my camera equipment and other essentials, had been checked at the counter on the 1st floor, which is required to get into the museum, and that the counter was likely closed because the museum was now closed. Talk about a mood killer. We hustled down the stairs and sure enough, the counter was dark. Not a soul in sight. We returned to the restaurant and as we were asking the head waiter what to do, I noticed my backpack sitting on a chair near the waiters's stand. What a relief! We were on a 6:30 am trip the following morning to Loire Valley and I wouldn't have wanted to be cameraless. I guess the counter figured the backpack might belong to someone in the restaurant so they brought it up. I never told the counter where we were going. So word to the wise. If you're going to be eating in the restaurant after the museum is closed and you brought in something that had to be checked, be sure to ask the counter people how to handle the return of your stuff.
Annhig, LoveItaly answered your questions better than I could.
Thursday morning found us riding the metro to the 16th Arr (Muette stop) in search of the Musee Marmottan. It wasn't too hard to find. For all you Monet lovers, I urge you to make the trip. This museum is set in a residential area and used to be a private mansion. It now houses the largest collection of Monets in the world. I'd guess 30-40. This collection had been at Giverny and was donated largely by Monet's son, Michael. Very impressive. But the museum pass is not accepted here. Entrance fee is 8E.
It was about lunch time when we had finished gawking. We headed back to the metro and found a great cafe with a non-smoking section (sorry can't remember the cafe's name) directly across the street from the Muette stop. We each ordered an omlette (with potatos mixed in) and now we know why they're legendary in Paris. Best ever.
We hopped back on the metro and took a long ride on line 13 to just outside the city limits. Very different crowd out there. Younger and more urban. Our destination was the Basilica St. Denis where most of the French Kings and Queens are buried. Their tombs are scattered about the main floor and in the crypt. The biggees are here, including Louis XVI and Marie-Antoinette. This is a very large and imposing Gothic structure. Well worth the trip.
Keeping with the dead people theme, we got back on the metro and headed for the Pere-Lachaise Cemetary. Got there at 6:05pm, 5 minutes after closing.... My only screwup. Next time.
We then headed for Ille St. Louis where we strolled around the streets, all 2 of them. We bought some balsamic vinegar and enjoyed a sorbet from Berthillon. By the way, we hit the first Berthillon we saw just after arriving and patiently waited in line, not realizing there were several just down the street with no lines.
We walked home along the Seine. Tonite we were having dinner at the Musee D'Orsay. They have a beautiful dining room on the 2nd floor. The ceilings must be 20 feet and are painted. Looking at the room and the well dressed waiters, you'd think it was tre expensive but not so. Michael put us on to this place. Our meals were very good. To cap things off, we splurged on a couple of glasses of French champagne.
Then, as I was getting ready to leave, it dawned on me that my backpack, which held my camera equipment and other essentials, had been checked at the counter on the 1st floor, which is required to get into the museum, and that the counter was likely closed because the museum was now closed. Talk about a mood killer. We hustled down the stairs and sure enough, the counter was dark. Not a soul in sight. We returned to the restaurant and as we were asking the head waiter what to do, I noticed my backpack sitting on a chair near the waiters's stand. What a relief! We were on a 6:30 am trip the following morning to Loire Valley and I wouldn't have wanted to be cameraless. I guess the counter figured the backpack might belong to someone in the restaurant so they brought it up. I never told the counter where we were going. So word to the wise. If you're going to be eating in the restaurant after the museum is closed and you brought in something that had to be checked, be sure to ask the counter people how to handle the return of your stuff.
Jul 23rd, 2006, 04:00 PM
#59
Today is Friday and we're off to the Loire Valley. The only bad part of this trip is the 6:30 am departure time. Too early for my morning croissant fix. We signed up with ParisVision after extensive research. This is their "Castles & Wines of the Loire" tour. We opted for the minibus tour (it's also offered via bus). Not cheap (183E each) but I much prefer the small group tours due a slight but irritating hearing deficit.
Our driver was Andre, a Belgium by birth who had been living in Paris since he was 5. He was positively terrific. I'm guessing he was in his late 20s, early 30s. Very knowledgeable, personable, and not afraid to share his thoughts on the issues of the day. And a very good driver. There were 2 other people on the tour, a nice lady from Chicago and her college age daughter who had just finished a semester in Spain.
First stop on this 12.5 hour excursion was Amboise Castle, located a couple of hours south of Paris just outside the city of Tours. The castle or chateau sits atop a rather impressive hill. We park at the base and start our little hike. Just before we reach the top, we're greeted by some stunning wisteria bushes in full bloom against a stone wall and a bright blue sky above. A quaint walkway set amidst a beautifully landscaped lawn leads us to the castle. There is a wall rimming the top and it provides panoramic and spectacular views. We are given an hour to explore the castle on our own. Although Andre had given us the history of this castle, he is not permitted to conduct tours inside for some reason. This castle reminded me of the ones I used to see on the old TV series "Robin Hood". Oh how I would have loved to play in that castle as a kid. Inside, the rooms are well furnished (you're not supposed to take pictures....). The views from the castle windows are even more stunning than from the grounds, especially of the river and countryside below. There is a chapel which faces the castle and it is there that Leonardo de Vince was laid to rest.
Andre then drives us maybe a mile down the road to Clos Luce, where Leonardo da Vince lived for the last 3 years of his life. Many of his inventions are displayed inside. I think the guy defined genius. We again do a self guided tour of the residence. The grounds contain extensive gardens but unfortunately, there wasn't enough time for us to explare them.
Andre then takes us to the Chenonceau castle which was maybe a 20 minute drive. Here we have lunch in a lovely building on the grounds. The food and wine were very good. But by the time lunch is over, the clouds have set in. Looks like it could rain at any moment. After a short walk, the castle itself appears. It's gorgeous. Turrets, a moat and lots and lots of gardens. Andre gives us the history and we then have an hour to tour the inside. The rooms of this castle were extremely well decorated by its inhabitants, which we were told sets it apart from the others in France. Someone had impeccable taste and a ton of money. Not all the rooms are open to the public.
Next stop is the Monmousseau Cellars/Winery for a tour of the underground caves and a wine tasting (3 vintages). During WWII, there were 10 miles of tunnels here in the hillside which later became the winery. Pretty impressive.
On the way back to Paris, we peppered Andre with more questions. It was really nice to learn about France's education system, pension benefits, taxes, health care benefits/system, terrorism efforts, etc. Nothing was off limits and we learned a lot. And so did he. He was equally interested in learning how we in the States handled such things. It was a great, great day. We highly recommend a trip to the Loire Valley. It's nice to get a feel for a part of the Frech countryside.
This was our last full day in Paris. Which means this lengthy trip report is about over for those of you still reading. To celebrate our last dinner in Paris, we went Chinese.... It was something we could both agree on. We went to the Peking Express, very close to the hotel. Excellent food. We were put in a back room where no one else was to minimize the smell of cigarettes. But not long after our dinner was served, others sat down close by and promptly lit up, and often. That's one thing we don't have to worry about in the States. And that's a very nice thing.
Our driver was Andre, a Belgium by birth who had been living in Paris since he was 5. He was positively terrific. I'm guessing he was in his late 20s, early 30s. Very knowledgeable, personable, and not afraid to share his thoughts on the issues of the day. And a very good driver. There were 2 other people on the tour, a nice lady from Chicago and her college age daughter who had just finished a semester in Spain.
First stop on this 12.5 hour excursion was Amboise Castle, located a couple of hours south of Paris just outside the city of Tours. The castle or chateau sits atop a rather impressive hill. We park at the base and start our little hike. Just before we reach the top, we're greeted by some stunning wisteria bushes in full bloom against a stone wall and a bright blue sky above. A quaint walkway set amidst a beautifully landscaped lawn leads us to the castle. There is a wall rimming the top and it provides panoramic and spectacular views. We are given an hour to explore the castle on our own. Although Andre had given us the history of this castle, he is not permitted to conduct tours inside for some reason. This castle reminded me of the ones I used to see on the old TV series "Robin Hood". Oh how I would have loved to play in that castle as a kid. Inside, the rooms are well furnished (you're not supposed to take pictures....). The views from the castle windows are even more stunning than from the grounds, especially of the river and countryside below. There is a chapel which faces the castle and it is there that Leonardo de Vince was laid to rest.
Andre then drives us maybe a mile down the road to Clos Luce, where Leonardo da Vince lived for the last 3 years of his life. Many of his inventions are displayed inside. I think the guy defined genius. We again do a self guided tour of the residence. The grounds contain extensive gardens but unfortunately, there wasn't enough time for us to explare them.
Andre then takes us to the Chenonceau castle which was maybe a 20 minute drive. Here we have lunch in a lovely building on the grounds. The food and wine were very good. But by the time lunch is over, the clouds have set in. Looks like it could rain at any moment. After a short walk, the castle itself appears. It's gorgeous. Turrets, a moat and lots and lots of gardens. Andre gives us the history and we then have an hour to tour the inside. The rooms of this castle were extremely well decorated by its inhabitants, which we were told sets it apart from the others in France. Someone had impeccable taste and a ton of money. Not all the rooms are open to the public.
Next stop is the Monmousseau Cellars/Winery for a tour of the underground caves and a wine tasting (3 vintages). During WWII, there were 10 miles of tunnels here in the hillside which later became the winery. Pretty impressive.
On the way back to Paris, we peppered Andre with more questions. It was really nice to learn about France's education system, pension benefits, taxes, health care benefits/system, terrorism efforts, etc. Nothing was off limits and we learned a lot. And so did he. He was equally interested in learning how we in the States handled such things. It was a great, great day. We highly recommend a trip to the Loire Valley. It's nice to get a feel for a part of the Frech countryside.
This was our last full day in Paris. Which means this lengthy trip report is about over for those of you still reading. To celebrate our last dinner in Paris, we went Chinese.... It was something we could both agree on. We went to the Peking Express, very close to the hotel. Excellent food. We were put in a back room where no one else was to minimize the smell of cigarettes. But not long after our dinner was served, others sat down close by and promptly lit up, and often. That's one thing we don't have to worry about in the States. And that's a very nice thing.
Jul 23rd, 2006, 05:12 PM
#60
Saturday was our last day in Paris. Our plane didn't leave until 2:20pm, giving us time to pack up and take one last walk down those glorious boulevards and past yet another beautiful garden or two. Paris really is something else in the springtime.
The cab ride to the airport was uneventful as was the flight home. It had been a terrific vacation.
Dave
The cab ride to the airport was uneventful as was the flight home. It had been a terrific vacation.
Dave
