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Montalcino in May; Tuscano recommendations appreciated

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Montalcino in May; Tuscano recommendations appreciated

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Old Mar 7th, 2009 | 10:15 AM
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Montalcino in May; Tuscano recommendations appreciated

We've booked an apartment for two weeks on a working winery in Montalcino in May. I'm terribly excited and have been researching the trip to death. Reading both of Isabella Dusi's books so I feel like I'm getting intimately familiar with all the little alleys, trattorias, cafes, churches, piazzas, and even the individual olive trees of Montalcino.

We will have a car and want to explore other towns in the area. I must go back to my favorite Siena restaurant, and we'll probably pop into San Gim. for a visit. What are your favorite hill towns in Southern Tuscany? Are there any restaurants that you would insist that we shouldn't miss?

Thanks in advance!
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Old Mar 7th, 2009 | 10:25 AM
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Good for you--you will love that area. I was the first person to review VANILLA BEANS AND BRODO at Amazon when it first came out. We have since met Isabella in Montalcino--she is a delight.
As for good food, and Tuscan villages, here are my favorites. Good luck !
GOOD EATS IN TOSCANA---2008
I have never been called “ BOB THE FOODIE” , but here are some of the best places to eat in Tuscany based on feedback from many of my clients. Reservations are suggested for most!
$=inexpensive $$=moderate prices $$$= expensive

FLORENCE:
Osteria del Cinghiale Bianco $$ Across the river & very good.
La Giostra $$$ Excellent, but you must book in advance

SIENA:
Osteria Le Logge $$ Great place for lunch and near Il Campo
Cane e Gato $$$ A fixed price & menu for a true feast—allow 4 hours

LUCCA:
Buca di San Antonio $$ Best in town and near San Michele
Il Giglio $$ In the piazza of the same name---favorite with locals

SAN GIMIGNANO:
Il Pino $$ Very good typical Tuscan fare
Le Vecchie Mura $ Good value for a tourist town

MONTALCINO:
Taverna Grappolo Blu $ Popular with locals as well.
Ristorante Poggio Antico $$ Excellent cuisine 5km south of town at winery location
Enoteca Osteria Osticcio $ Best wine tasting & small meals in town

MONTEPULCIANO:
La Grotta $$ Near San Biagio church & very good
Café Poliziano $ Great place for lunch on shopping street

PIENZA: Latte du Luna $$ Best choice in this charming village

BAGNO VIGNONI: Osteria del Leone $ Good lunch choice in this spa hamlet

MONTICCHIELLO: La Porta $ Charming place with outside terrace

SAN QUIRICO: Trattoria al Vecchio Forno $ Good food & fair value

CASTELLINA: Al Gallopapa $$$ Creative & varied menu in Chianti



www.bobthenavigator.homestead.com
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Old Mar 7th, 2009 | 11:16 AM
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Bob, thank you so much! I'm printing these all out. I'm afraid I'm going to walk in to Grappolo Blu and talk to Maria Pia like she's an old friend! Isabella is a wonderful story teller. She certainly pokes deep into the crevices and cracks of Tuscano!
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Old Mar 7th, 2009 | 12:14 PM
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Grassshopper,
My trip report may be of help to you http://www.fodors.com/community/euro...o-and-rome.cfm

Henry
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Old Mar 7th, 2009 | 12:41 PM
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Thank you Henry! I enjoyed your trip report. Your granddaughters are very lucky. I want to see St. Catherine's head too. She's my patron saint.
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Old Mar 7th, 2009 | 01:45 PM
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Pienza is my absolute fave. But just drive around in that area. The countryside and all the towns are nice. My faves are probably: Montepulciano, Pienza, Montichiello.
ANd I really think it is worth staying overnight in San Gimignagno. All the day-trippers leave by around 6pm and from then til about 11 am the next day it will be just locals and the few people who stay overnight in town. So charming. And the lighting at sunset and after dark there are wonderful.
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Old Mar 7th, 2009 | 01:57 PM
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>> What are your favorite hill towns in Southern Tuscany? <<

Rarely mentioned but high on my list is Montecchiello. Since you've "been researching the trip to death", you probably know the other favs...
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Old Mar 7th, 2009 | 04:37 PM
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grasshopper, we LOVE Montalcino. I have some restaurant notes and places to visit in my trip report from last June

Montalcino is near the end.

Have a great trip!
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Old Mar 7th, 2009 | 04:38 PM
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oops. forgot the link:

http://www.fodors.com/community/euro...rip-report.cfm
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Old Mar 8th, 2009 | 05:30 AM
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grasshopper,

I also read Vanilla Beans and Brodo, so was eager to try Grappolo Blu. I liked it so much the first night, I returned twice more for dinner. Mariapia and Luciano are just plain wonderful people. Very welcoming. Mariapia will be thrilled to hear you have read the book, they have copies in the bar! Luciano is the true wine expert. If you're lucky, you might get an invitation to "drink the wine" with them after closing.

I haven't seen you on Fodor's forever! Where have you been?
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Old Mar 8th, 2009 | 05:31 AM
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Oh, be sure to make time to visit Sant' Antimo for the Gregorian chants. Lovely.
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Old Mar 8th, 2009 | 07:51 AM
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i think the problem with grappolo blu the night we went may have been that Mariapia and Luciano were not there. On vacation? I don't know.
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Old Mar 8th, 2009 | 08:58 AM
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Hi Dayle. That would be so great! Unfortunately (or fortunately) I've been so immersed in work that my only travel lately has been to hook a few days onto work trips domestically. It's been a great way to get to know some US cities I hadn't spent time in previously, but I haven't been to Europe in 4 years! Now I have a quick trip to London and Amsterdam coming up in a few weeks and then this lovely trip to Italy in May. It feels great to have these trips on the calendar.
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