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Mini-report: two weeks in France--Paris and Provence--and a few words about clothing...

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Mini-report: two weeks in France--Paris and Provence--and a few words about clothing...

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Old Jul 3rd, 2003, 01:33 AM
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KathyO
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Mini-report: two weeks in France--Paris and Provence--and a few words about clothing...

We had a wonderful time on our first visit to Europe. We explored Paris for 3 days, (definately needed more time...) Provence for several wonderful days...stayed in Menerbes and explored the region--hill-top villages, lavendar fields, vineyards, etc., spent a day and night in Cassis and rode the boat past the Calanques, drove through the mountainous Alps de Haute Provence around the Verdon River and stayed in the fun valley town of Castellane for a night, spent a night in Avignon walking around town... visited the amazing Pope's Palace. We did all of these things and made sure we found time to enjoy the food and wine, and we did!

All in all we stayed in 6 different locations, but we enjoyed our stay in Menerbes the most. I think this was partly due to having 6 days in one place and being able to settle in and relax.

I plan to share some details of our trip regarding car rental, hotels, food, shopping, etc., that could be helpful to anyone planning a similar trip. Before that I just wanted to say a word about clothes.

I don't wear jeans in the summer, but during our walks through Paris I saw lots of other people wearing jeans. I brought Capri pants which I wore only in Paris at night. The rest of the time I wore shorts, an unobtrusive white shirt (nylon/lycra, fast drying), a travel vest and comfortable leather walking sandals (one pair casual, one a little dressier Naot). I've always worn a waist pack, but I didn't want to get dirty looks so I nixed that idea for Paris and hoped no one would care that I wore a vest with a lot of pockets. (sorry, I'm being a bit irreverant here...)

I'm normally a conservative dresser, but in the summer and when I'm on vacation I want to be comfortable. I don't like heels and purses when I'm exploring, whether it's the Lourve or the Luxumbourg gardens. Everywhere we went I noted how others were dressed and whether anyone might possibly be offended by my casual attire...I saw many, many people in shorts. To me, the thing that identified tourists were their cameras and maps, not necessarily the way they dressed. For example, a very attractive Parisian couple was across from me on the TGV from Avignon to Paris... I couldn't help it, I had to look down at their shoes. You guessed it, white tennis shoes.

I was an obvious tourist my first time to France (I prefer to use the word "traveller&quot and of course I want commemorative photos of my trip, and of course I'm going to get lost in Paris and need to use a map. The only time I felt the need to alter my behavior was in some nicer restaurants where I wanted our experience to be elegant and I wanted to be treated right.

Incidentally, the people in Provence were among the warmest and friendliest I've met. The people in Paris were gracious and accommodating, if a bit reserved. I didn't expect anything else and was pleasantly surprised at how many nice people we met. I did try my best with some basic French, but, well... you know.

More to come. Thanks to those of you who helped with our itinerary. I hope I can assist others now... this forum rivals guide books for valuable info.
 
Old Jul 3rd, 2003, 05:38 AM
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I'd like to hear more about Castellane. That is the valley town above which there's a church with a cross that can be seen for miles, isn't it? We saw it from afar as we drove back to the Luberon from Moustiers-Ste-Marie and the Gorge du Verdon. I'd like to explore that part of France, and you mentioned that it is a fun town. Sounds as though you had a wonderful trip!
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Old Jul 3rd, 2003, 07:41 AM
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I stayed in Castellane a couple of years ago and enjoyed it enormously. My friend hiked to the church that overlooks the town. I said no thanks to that (looked too steep to me)and explored the town instead. She enjoyed the hike but admitted that it was pretty scary. The view was sensational, however and she was glad she went (and glad she didn't fall).

One of the highlights of our stay there was going into a "bar" (it was on the town square). We were ahead of the main tourist season and so only the locals were there - about 6 to 8 men. We were the only women (didn't know that before we went in), except for a woman behind the bar. There was a TV where Mannix was on in French. The woman behind the bar wouldn't serve us until one of the men offered to be our "patron" and directed her to give us the good brand of pastis. We had a great conversation, bought our patron a drink and then my friend asked where the women were. The woman behind the bar laughed and said they were home making dinner and waiting for the men. Then she bought us a drink. It was great fun.

The scenery around there is beautiful and the road from Castellane to Moustiers-Ste-Marie was just incredible. I'd love to go back.
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Old Jul 3rd, 2003, 07:50 AM
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KathyO
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Grandmere, we found Castellane to be a welcome respite after driving our rental car around the mountains. We were ready for a break and being in the valley was a nice contrast to the hill town we'd been in for a few days.

Castellane struck me as a place for families with children and the adventurous - the swimming nearby, and rafting and climbing opportunities, etc., seemed to draw in a youthful crowd. Yes, that great church looms high over the town and can be seen from all vantage points. There's a walk up to the church which we didn't do because we'd done so much hill-top village climbing our legs needed a rest. There is a small town square lined with places to eat and drink, gear rental and other tourist shops, etc. I found it to be a great place to relax. Also, we had one of our best dinners in Castellane - a lamb dish that was incredible. Our luggage hasn't caught up with us yet; when it does I'll provide the name of the restaurant.

We had no reservations, but ended up getting a great room at a nice hotel on the square. In the morning there was a market on the square which was a very pleasant surprise.

 
Old Jul 3rd, 2003, 08:50 AM
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Kathy,
I agree with your observations of dress in Paris. I don't normally wear jeans much, so did not take any to Paris, but I saw plenty of people wearing them. Also made special note of who was wearing white tennis shoes and fanny packs, and I have to say I saw as many Europeans as Americans with these. Fat German men seem to be particularly fond of fanny packs and ill-fitting clothing!

What I did notice is that the French women who wore jeans wore well-fitting ones--not 3 sizes too small with fat hanging over the waistband. Also they tend to wear shoes appropriate to the activity--lots of tennis shoes at Versailles, but not in Paris. I wouldn't wear tennis shoes to work either.
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Old Jul 3rd, 2003, 09:13 AM
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Kathy, thank you for giving me a nice sense of the little town.
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Old Jul 3rd, 2003, 10:41 AM
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More, Kathy, More! I'm at the very beginning stages of planning a trip to this area in May 2004.
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Old Jul 3rd, 2003, 11:10 AM
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Great trip, Kathy! I loved Cassis and the Calanques boat ride. You got to see a lot of swell stuff.
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Old Jul 3rd, 2003, 02:03 PM
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Thanks Kathy, Cassis is one of our favorite places. I tasted my first sea urchins there.And the drive along the Verdon(the grand canyon of France) is wonderful Yes the Provençals are very warm that is why I keep returning to see the many friends made there.
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Old Jul 3rd, 2003, 02:09 PM
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" Cassis is one of our favorite places.."

Same for my wife and me. We loved the boat ride. We loved the Calanques. Definitely a place I would like to return.
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Old Jul 3rd, 2003, 03:34 PM
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Have to chime in as a Cassis booster! We were there in May and wanted to see the Med but not Cannes, etc as it was film festival time. Cassis was a delightful place.
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Old Jul 3rd, 2003, 03:54 PM
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Lynn, I enjoyed your Castellane story, too; those are the kinds of moments that you can't plan, and the guide books can't provide info about them, either!
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Old Jul 3rd, 2003, 06:18 PM
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Re: "...and the road from Castellane to Moustiers-Ste-Marie was just incredible. "

Indeed it is. Do you happen to recall passing by an auberge, the Auberge du Point Sublime, at about the half-way point? We stayed there for two nights a few years ago and loved it. Didn't stay in Castellane, but we drove through it on our way to Nice and spent a few hours exploring. It seemed very nice, as did Moustiers-Ste-Marie.
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