Marcy's Italy trip report: Rome, Naples, and DRIVING the Amalfi Coast
Sep 19th, 2004, 02:15 PM
#43
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Hi marcy,
Lovely report.
>pizza with pancetta and onions ...excellent!..<
Not just onions - cippolini. Oh, my mouth is watering.
Actually, there are only 43 steps from the Le Sirene to the road.
Lovely report.
>pizza with pancetta and onions ...excellent!..<
Not just onions - cippolini. Oh, my mouth is watering.
Actually, there are only 43 steps from the Le Sirene to the road.
Sep 19th, 2004, 09:55 PM
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I think it is about 200 steps from La Sirene down to the beach, Ira, I think you are thinking of from the hotel to the church.
I know I walked down to the beach (you mean the rocks?) from the church passing the hotel and peeking in for future reference and we walked a long way down to the water.
I know I walked down to the beach (you mean the rocks?) from the church passing the hotel and peeking in for future reference and we walked a long way down to the water.
Sep 19th, 2004, 11:39 PM
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I know for SURE that it's 200 steps from the beach- we counted each and every one as we came huffing and puffing up them the first time! 
It may be only 43 to the road, though.
No need for stairmasters in Praiano!
It may be only 43 to the road, though.
No need for stairmasters in Praiano!
Sep 21st, 2004, 03:29 PM
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Ira, I would never dispute you for a minute! 
Sorry I'm so slow in finishing this trip report-- Work sure does get in the way!
Day 7: Praiano to Rome
Checked out of Le Sirene-- astounded to see that our bar bill for 4 nights of drinks on the terrace with generous servings of olives, capers, and peanut snacks was only 17€!! What a bargain!
We lugged our bags up the 43 steps
and took off toward Rome. It wasn't the shortest way, but we had to drive along the coast past Positano toward Sorrento one more time-- If it's not the most beautiful drive in the world it's close.
The autostrada to Rome is quick and easy. It's a toll road, with nice service plazas-- a good highway.
It was easy enough driving into Rome and finding the train station, but a little harder finding the Hertz rental car return location. I finally had to leave John double-parked on the street while I ran inside the train station to the Hertz counter and got directions.
The car return is in a parking garage that has a tiny little sign about 6 inches tall saying Hertz! Not easy to find!
We hailed a taxi right by the station, and after driving a couple of blocks, I noticed that the driver hadn't turned on the meter. I asked about the meter, and he turned it on right away. Hmmm, do you suppose he was planning to scam us?
Our hotel was the Albergo del Senato, that we've heard so much about on this forum. We were ready for something slightly upscale from our previous spots, and it didn't disappoint.
Our room wasn't large, but it was very nice, with soundproofed fabric-covered walls, a nice marble bathroom, and a great view of the Pantheon from our window.
The rooftop bar has a truly marvelous view of the city, and we had a drink there every evening to watch the sunset.
We spent that afternoon just wandering, windowshopping, and orienting ourselves to the area.
That night we tried to have dinner at the Osteria del Gallo, near the hotel, but had a bad experience there and ended up leaving and going to Da Luigi (just across form the Chiesa Nuova). We had met a local woman earlier who had told us that it was one of her favorites, and that she ate there every week.
Da Luigi was delightful! The staff was warm and welcoming, and there were very few tourists, and prices were very reasonable.
I had fried stuffed squash blossoms (these are so good- I had them every place I saw them on the menu!) and penne all'amatriciana (another favorite- I had to compare versions of this at lots of different restaurants)
John had the excellent canelloni and veal saltimbocca.
There were still quite a few people hanging out in the piazza in front of the Pantheon, just below the window of our hotel room, and we wondered whether the noise would bother us, but it was very quiet.
We could hear only faint, haunting strains from the jazz saxophonist on the steps of the Pantheon- lovely!
Sorry I'm so slow in finishing this trip report-- Work sure does get in the way!
Day 7: Praiano to Rome
Checked out of Le Sirene-- astounded to see that our bar bill for 4 nights of drinks on the terrace with generous servings of olives, capers, and peanut snacks was only 17€!! What a bargain!
We lugged our bags up the 43 steps
and took off toward Rome. It wasn't the shortest way, but we had to drive along the coast past Positano toward Sorrento one more time-- If it's not the most beautiful drive in the world it's close.The autostrada to Rome is quick and easy. It's a toll road, with nice service plazas-- a good highway.
It was easy enough driving into Rome and finding the train station, but a little harder finding the Hertz rental car return location. I finally had to leave John double-parked on the street while I ran inside the train station to the Hertz counter and got directions.
The car return is in a parking garage that has a tiny little sign about 6 inches tall saying Hertz! Not easy to find!
We hailed a taxi right by the station, and after driving a couple of blocks, I noticed that the driver hadn't turned on the meter. I asked about the meter, and he turned it on right away. Hmmm, do you suppose he was planning to scam us?
Our hotel was the Albergo del Senato, that we've heard so much about on this forum. We were ready for something slightly upscale from our previous spots, and it didn't disappoint.
Our room wasn't large, but it was very nice, with soundproofed fabric-covered walls, a nice marble bathroom, and a great view of the Pantheon from our window.
The rooftop bar has a truly marvelous view of the city, and we had a drink there every evening to watch the sunset.
We spent that afternoon just wandering, windowshopping, and orienting ourselves to the area.
That night we tried to have dinner at the Osteria del Gallo, near the hotel, but had a bad experience there and ended up leaving and going to Da Luigi (just across form the Chiesa Nuova). We had met a local woman earlier who had told us that it was one of her favorites, and that she ate there every week.
Da Luigi was delightful! The staff was warm and welcoming, and there were very few tourists, and prices were very reasonable.
I had fried stuffed squash blossoms (these are so good- I had them every place I saw them on the menu!) and penne all'amatriciana (another favorite- I had to compare versions of this at lots of different restaurants)
John had the excellent canelloni and veal saltimbocca.
There were still quite a few people hanging out in the piazza in front of the Pantheon, just below the window of our hotel room, and we wondered whether the noise would bother us, but it was very quiet.
We could hear only faint, haunting strains from the jazz saxophonist on the steps of the Pantheon- lovely!
Sep 22nd, 2004, 08:47 PM
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I've somehow lost our journal for the rest of our trip, so the rest of my report will be just some random highlights and impressions of Rome:
One morning we took a tour with Scala Reale: Renaissance Art and Architecture. There was only one other person on the tour with us, a woman from California who showed up in shorts and a camisole top.
I was a little worried that her attire would cause us problems visiting churches, but it didn't end up being a problem.
Our guide, Anthony M_____, originally from Canada, was extremely knowledgeable, but he directed everything he had to say to this other woman, and completely ignored John and me! My usually extremely laid-back and easy-going husband was furious at his rudeness by the end of the tour.
Nonetheless, the tour was interesting. Highlights were the Palazzo Spada, with its Boromini perspective, and especially the Villa Farnesina, in Trastevere- with fabulous frescoes, including some by Raphael.
We also took the Scavi tour (the excavations under St. Peter's), and it was fascinating! I highly recommend this one!
A helpful hint for visiting St Peter's: GO EARLY! We stoppped in St. Peter's a little after 8:30 in the morning, and there was NO line, and we just about had the place to ourselves. When we came out from the Scavi tour a little after 10:00, the line for security stretched clear across the square-- probably a wait of an hour or more.
Our favorite restaurant:
Taverna Degli Amici, on Piazza Margana. We had eaten here on a previous trip, and had a very memorable meal, and it was just as good as we had remembered!
We had the absolute best Bombollotti all'Amatriciana, wonderful roast lamb, and a fabulous bottle of Brunello.
This place just has a special feeling. The staff is very warm and friendly, there are pretty outdoor tables, and it seems to be a favorite place for local people to celebrate birthdays or special occasions.
Another fun restaurant is Der Pallaro, a very homey mom-and-pop kind of place, where you don't order at all-- they just keep on bringing course after course of great food to your table. 20 € per person, including wine and water.
Coffee lovers should try the coffee and whipped cream granitas at the Tazza d'Oro- right next to the Albergo del Senato (by the Pantheon.) Yum!
More later....
One morning we took a tour with Scala Reale: Renaissance Art and Architecture. There was only one other person on the tour with us, a woman from California who showed up in shorts and a camisole top.
I was a little worried that her attire would cause us problems visiting churches, but it didn't end up being a problem.
Our guide, Anthony M_____, originally from Canada, was extremely knowledgeable, but he directed everything he had to say to this other woman, and completely ignored John and me! My usually extremely laid-back and easy-going husband was furious at his rudeness by the end of the tour.
Nonetheless, the tour was interesting. Highlights were the Palazzo Spada, with its Boromini perspective, and especially the Villa Farnesina, in Trastevere- with fabulous frescoes, including some by Raphael.
We also took the Scavi tour (the excavations under St. Peter's), and it was fascinating! I highly recommend this one!
A helpful hint for visiting St Peter's: GO EARLY! We stoppped in St. Peter's a little after 8:30 in the morning, and there was NO line, and we just about had the place to ourselves. When we came out from the Scavi tour a little after 10:00, the line for security stretched clear across the square-- probably a wait of an hour or more.
Our favorite restaurant:
Taverna Degli Amici, on Piazza Margana. We had eaten here on a previous trip, and had a very memorable meal, and it was just as good as we had remembered!
We had the absolute best Bombollotti all'Amatriciana, wonderful roast lamb, and a fabulous bottle of Brunello.
This place just has a special feeling. The staff is very warm and friendly, there are pretty outdoor tables, and it seems to be a favorite place for local people to celebrate birthdays or special occasions.
Another fun restaurant is Der Pallaro, a very homey mom-and-pop kind of place, where you don't order at all-- they just keep on bringing course after course of great food to your table. 20 € per person, including wine and water.
Coffee lovers should try the coffee and whipped cream granitas at the Tazza d'Oro- right next to the Albergo del Senato (by the Pantheon.) Yum!
More later....
Sep 24th, 2004, 12:02 PM
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I've put some pictures on ofoto, if anybody would like to see them:
http://www.ofoto.com/I.jsp?c=19ay54m...0&y=ti9swr
http://www.ofoto.com/I.jsp?c=19ay54m...0&y=ti9swr
Sep 24th, 2004, 02:27 PM
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Love the trip report and pictures - thanks, Marcy. We're planning a trip to Rome for next year & have been eying the del Senato - is there any particular room or floor request you would recommend for best view (and most peaceful sleep)? How far ahead did you book?
Sep 24th, 2004, 02:38 PM
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LAwoman,
Our room was on the 4th floor, and the rooms on that floor don't have the full-length windows that some of the other floors have, so I think if we stay there again I would ask for maybe the 3rd, 5th, or 6th floor?
2 or 3 rooms on the 6th floor actually have a little balcony. I don't know whether they're more expensive, though.
And the suites look VERY nice, but of course they're pricy.
I think there's been another thread where people discussed specific room numbers.
Our room was on the 4th floor, and the rooms on that floor don't have the full-length windows that some of the other floors have, so I think if we stay there again I would ask for maybe the 3rd, 5th, or 6th floor?
2 or 3 rooms on the 6th floor actually have a little balcony. I don't know whether they're more expensive, though.
And the suites look VERY nice, but of course they're pricy.
I think there's been another thread where people discussed specific room numbers.
Sep 24th, 2004, 02:43 PM
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LAwoman,
Oh, and we booked maybe 5 months ahead.
Our room was really very quiet. I suppose the best as far as view and quiet is to get a higher floor (there are 6), and of course to ask for a view of the Pantheon.
Oh, and we booked maybe 5 months ahead.
Our room was really very quiet. I suppose the best as far as view and quiet is to get a higher floor (there are 6), and of course to ask for a view of the Pantheon.
Sep 24th, 2004, 03:37 PM
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Marcy: I was just in Italy myself, returned 3 days ago. I split my 3 weeks up to 1 week in Liguria (CT); 1 week in Tuscany, and 1 week in the south (Sorrento). I went up to Rome 2 or 3 times while I was there, taking trains back and forth. The weather had definitely started to cool down as of Sept 20, I am sure that by October it would be the most perfect weather to go visit with nearly all of the tourists gone!
I found the SITA busses very convenient and cheap, I took them up and down the AC from Sorrento. While the ride was longer than taking a hydrofoil/boat, the frequent bus departures worked better for my schedule. If you blink, you will miss Praiano. I had wanted to go there for the festival of San Gennaro last Saturday but decided against it. I am sure it is a delightful town, as they all are on the Amalfi Coast. I liked Minori and Maori, as well as Cetara and Vietri sul Mare. Can't wait to get my photos back.
Maybe I should post my trip report next! Thanks for sharing yours....
I found the SITA busses very convenient and cheap, I took them up and down the AC from Sorrento. While the ride was longer than taking a hydrofoil/boat, the frequent bus departures worked better for my schedule. If you blink, you will miss Praiano. I had wanted to go there for the festival of San Gennaro last Saturday but decided against it. I am sure it is a delightful town, as they all are on the Amalfi Coast. I liked Minori and Maori, as well as Cetara and Vietri sul Mare. Can't wait to get my photos back.
Maybe I should post my trip report next!
Thanks for sharing yours....
Sep 24th, 2004, 05:30 PM
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Huitres,
I bet now or early October <i>would</i> be a perfect time to be there, especially if you weren't planning to swim.
Please do post a trip report. We'd love to hear all about it!
I bet now or early October <i>would</i> be a perfect time to be there, especially if you weren't planning to swim.
Please do post a trip report. We'd love to hear all about it!
Sep 29th, 2004, 06:04 PM
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I'm glad I found this website. I just wish I had thought of logging on before we made all of our plans. My hubby won a round trip ticket thru a golf tournament. Since we had time restrictions, we had to act on it post haste to configure with our work schedules. We'll be leaving Oct 22. This will be our first trip abroad -- had to get passports and everything. We fly into Naples, then head to Sorrento for one night, Praiano for 7 nights, then back to Naples. I know there is not much "TO DO" in Praiano, but thought it would be a good hub for day trips via bus. So far I'm confident it will be a nice trip. We rented an apartment in Praiano with a HUGE balcony. Weather permitting, we hope to relax and cook and soak up the scenery. If anyone has any other tips, do share.
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