Maitai's Convoluted Dordogne, Languedoc & Provence 2012 Trip
Jan 26th, 2011, 04:37 PM
#22
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Your itinerary looks fine to me. I'm a fan of Pezenas - we've visited it several times. I love Montpellier, but I've found it hard to drive around getting in & out of town - I'm usually making a wrong turn. Personally, I would not base there & do day-trips elsewhere. I would also stay in Toulouse instead of Albi - Toulouse is my 3rd favorite city in France.
Stu Dudley
Stu Dudley
Jan 26th, 2011, 04:58 PM
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Day 10 - Day day trip to Toulouse from Albi
Day 11 - Carcassonne
Day 12 - Carcassonne to Pezenas via via Peyrepertuse & Quéribus Châteaux
Day 13, 14, 15 - Pezenas (see Grotte des Demoiselles, Grotte de Clamouse, St Guilhem le Desert, La Couvertoirade, Roquefort, Millau/Tarn Gorges/Aven Armand, Beziers, Montpelier
<<
OK - I think that you will be driving more than you'll want to drive if you base 1 place, and then try to do everthing you have planned on day 13, 14, 15. The Gorges du Tarn will consume a lot of time, and so will Aven Armand, Demoselles, and Clamouse because some of them close for lunch and you'll have to schedule around that and then still have to wait for the "next tour" to start.
So, I would re-work this part of your plan so that you spend 2 nights in the
Day 10 - Day day trip to Toulouse from Albi
Day 11 - Carcassonne
Day 12 - Carcassonne to Pezenas via via Peyrepertuse & Quéribus Châteaux
Day 13, 14, 15 - Pezenas (see Grotte des Demoiselles, Grotte de Clamouse, St Guilhem le Desert, La Couvertoirade, Roquefort, Millau/Tarn Gorges/Aven Armand, Beziers, Montpelier
<<
OK - I think that you will be driving more than you'll want to drive if you base 1 place, and then try to do everthing you have planned on day 13, 14, 15. The Gorges du Tarn will consume a lot of time, and so will Aven Armand, Demoselles, and Clamouse because some of them close for lunch and you'll have to schedule around that and then still have to wait for the "next tour" to start.
So, I would re-work this part of your plan so that you spend 2 nights in the
Jan 26th, 2011, 04:58 PM
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Day 10 - Day day trip to Toulouse from Albi
Day 11 - Carcassonne
Day 12 - Carcassonne to Pezenas via via Peyrepertuse & Quéribus Châteaux
Day 13, 14, 15 - Pezenas (see Grotte des Demoiselles, Grotte de Clamouse, St Guilhem le Desert, La Couvertoirade, Roquefort, Millau/Tarn Gorges/Aven Armand, Beziers, Montpelier
<<
OK - I think that you will be driving more than you'll want to drive if you base 1 place, and then try to do everthing you have planned on day 13, 14, 15. The Gorges du Tarn will consume a lot of time, and so will Aven Armand, Demoselles, and Clamouse because some of them close for lunch and you'll have to schedule around that and then still have to wait for the "next tour" to start.
So, I would re-work this part of your plan so that you spend 2 nights in the
Day 10 - Day day trip to Toulouse from Albi
Day 11 - Carcassonne
Day 12 - Carcassonne to Pezenas via via Peyrepertuse & Quéribus Châteaux
Day 13, 14, 15 - Pezenas (see Grotte des Demoiselles, Grotte de Clamouse, St Guilhem le Desert, La Couvertoirade, Roquefort, Millau/Tarn Gorges/Aven Armand, Beziers, Montpelier
<<
OK - I think that you will be driving more than you'll want to drive if you base 1 place, and then try to do everthing you have planned on day 13, 14, 15. The Gorges du Tarn will consume a lot of time, and so will Aven Armand, Demoselles, and Clamouse because some of them close for lunch and you'll have to schedule around that and then still have to wait for the "next tour" to start.
So, I would re-work this part of your plan so that you spend 2 nights in the
Jan 26th, 2011, 05:25 PM
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And it wasn't even the post I intended.
I think that you will be driving & "waiting" more than you'll want to if you base one place, and then try to do everthing you have planned on day 13, 14, 15. The Gorges du Tarn will consume a lot of time, and so will Aven Armand, Demoselles, Clamouse, and Roquefort because some of these sites close for lunch, and you'll have to schedule around that, and then you will also have to wait for the "next tour" to start.
So, I would add another day or two to your vacation & spend 2 nights/1 1/2 days in the Gorges du Tarn & nearby caves (I like Ste Enimie), and then 2-3 nights in Pezenas (or 2 in Pezenas & 1 in Montpellier).
Stu Dudley
I think that you will be driving & "waiting" more than you'll want to if you base one place, and then try to do everthing you have planned on day 13, 14, 15. The Gorges du Tarn will consume a lot of time, and so will Aven Armand, Demoselles, Clamouse, and Roquefort because some of these sites close for lunch, and you'll have to schedule around that, and then you will also have to wait for the "next tour" to start.
So, I would add another day or two to your vacation & spend 2 nights/1 1/2 days in the Gorges du Tarn & nearby caves (I like Ste Enimie), and then 2-3 nights in Pezenas (or 2 in Pezenas & 1 in Montpellier).
Stu Dudley
Jan 27th, 2011, 07:51 AM
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Tom,
Welcome back my friend!!! I am so glad to see you are doing well and planning a trip. I have just one question. Can I come with you guys? I think it would be a blast to travel with the four of you!!!
Tom
Welcome back my friend!!! I am so glad to see you are doing well and planning a trip. I have just one question. Can I come with you guys? I think it would be a blast to travel with the four of you!!!
Tom
Jan 27th, 2011, 10:34 AM
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Stu T.
I probably was the person who recommended La Table du Terroir. Discovered it years ago. Love that place!
MaiTaitom, in case you want to go there, it's in a tiny town called La Chapelle-Aubareil just a few kilometers outside Montignac (east, I think). When you get to the granular stage, I'm happy to recommend restaurants, etc.
I probably was the person who recommended La Table du Terroir. Discovered it years ago. Love that place!
MaiTaitom, in case you want to go there, it's in a tiny town called La Chapelle-Aubareil just a few kilometers outside Montignac (east, I think). When you get to the granular stage, I'm happy to recommend restaurants, etc.
Jan 27th, 2011, 03:01 PM
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Tom: a word of warning..the ("ac")towns in the Dordogne /Lot area to avoid at all costs:
Cardiac (for obvious reasons)
Sacroiliac (a real pain in the back)
Carjac (keep doors locked while driving thru)
Maniac ('nuff said)
Shellac (good in cold weather if you need a second coat)
Zantac (only if you have overeaten)
Amnesiac (the town is rocking all night long!)
Knicknac (too many cheapo chotchke shops)
(There are so many more...but I risk being banned for life)
stu
Cardiac (for obvious reasons)
Sacroiliac (a real pain in the back)
Carjac (keep doors locked while driving thru)
Maniac ('nuff said)
Shellac (good in cold weather if you need a second coat)
Zantac (only if you have overeaten)
Amnesiac (the town is rocking all night long!)
Knicknac (too many cheapo chotchke shops)
(There are so many more...but I risk being banned for life)
stu
Jan 27th, 2011, 03:14 PM
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St. C: Checked my journals and you were, indeed, the "Recommender" ...and we thank you for it...lovely experience...there was a bridal shower that afternoon and the place was decorated so festively. The resto I suggested to Tom near Conques (at Almon les Junies)gives off the same vibes (as a local family resto).
stu T.
Tom: How could I forget to include the scenic village of Kerouac..it's fairly qiet at all times...everyone is "on the road..."
stu T.
Tom: How could I forget to include the scenic village of Kerouac..it's fairly qiet at all times...everyone is "on the road..."
Jan 27th, 2011, 04:01 PM
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Regarding Day 7-10. If you decide to stay in the Carennac area, don't spend too much time at Rocamadour - it's a great view, but the village itself is a bit too 'touristique' Check out Autoire and Loubressac, as well as spending time in Carennac itself, a lovely village with an interesting church and great cloisters.
Driving down to Albi, you could see Figeac and Conques. But you won't get to see much of Albi itself that day, and I would recommend spending day 10 there rather than heading off to Toulouse. Albi itself is interesting - just made a Unesco historic site. We love Toulouse, but Albi has much the same feel, and it would cut out the driving back and forth.
Queribus and Peyrepetuse highly recommended - watch out if it's windy. When we were at Queribus, we had to crawl up the steps, and the guide recommended people with glasses remove them, rather than lose them to the wind. The wind was one of the defences of the chateau. Check out the Chateau at Salses - you can see it from the autoroute or stop and have a walk around. Very different from the others.
Driving down to Albi, you could see Figeac and Conques. But you won't get to see much of Albi itself that day, and I would recommend spending day 10 there rather than heading off to Toulouse. Albi itself is interesting - just made a Unesco historic site. We love Toulouse, but Albi has much the same feel, and it would cut out the driving back and forth.
Queribus and Peyrepetuse highly recommended - watch out if it's windy. When we were at Queribus, we had to crawl up the steps, and the guide recommended people with glasses remove them, rather than lose them to the wind. The wind was one of the defences of the chateau. Check out the Chateau at Salses - you can see it from the autoroute or stop and have a walk around. Very different from the others.
Jan 29th, 2011, 12:35 PM
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I don't know if these itineraries will help with your planning, but here it goes.
In 1997, in our first trip to Europe, coming into France from Barcelona, via Girona, Figueres and Collioure, we spent a night in Perpignan and from there, by way of Salses, on to Carcassonne, where we spent another night. From there we went to Tolouse for a couple of days, taking a day trip to Albi from there. Our next stop was Pau, which is not in your itinerary.
On 2001, we were coming in from Amboise and stayed three nights at Rocamadour. From there, on day one we visited the Grotte de Pech-Merle and St Cirq Lapopie; day two, the Grottes de Cougnac, Sarlat, and tried to visit Lascaux II but could not get tickets. On our way to Aigues Mortes, which would be our next stop, we visited the Gouffre de Padirac and Conques. There was a market in the village of Lavergne and we bought some artisan Foi de Gras du canard which turned out to be delicious.
In Aigues Mortes we stayed for four nights and from there visited Nimes and Le Pont du Guard on day one . Day two was dedicated to Arles, which was having the Feria Pascale and there we saw a bullfight (I know many of you are against that) in the roman arena. Next day was for Avignon and a little bit of the Camargue. On our way to Perouges (our next stop) we visited Orange and its antique theatre.
I can't find my notes, but in 2002, in going from Paris towards Spain we stopped, among others in Perigeux for three nights. From there we visited Les Eyzies de Tayac, Grotte Font de Gaume, Grotee de Combarelles , Caverne de Bara Bahau and Chateau de Hautefort. From Perigeux we continued towards Oloron Ste Marie via Moissac. After spending a couple of weeks in Spain, on our way back to Paris, and coming in from the Seu d'Urgell in the Spanish Pyrenees, we stopped for five nights at St. Remy de Provence. While staying there we visited Les Beaux de Provence, Salon de Provence and Abbaye de Silvacane. We also visited Gordes, the Villade des Bories, Fontaine de Vaucluse, Rousillon and Abbaye de Senanque, Abbaye du Thoronet, and Saintes Maries de la Mer in the Camargue, among others.
On our way back to Paris, we have stayed in Troyes, which is a nice stop and has a couple of outlet shopping centers.
In 1997, in our first trip to Europe, coming into France from Barcelona, via Girona, Figueres and Collioure, we spent a night in Perpignan and from there, by way of Salses, on to Carcassonne, where we spent another night. From there we went to Tolouse for a couple of days, taking a day trip to Albi from there. Our next stop was Pau, which is not in your itinerary.
On 2001, we were coming in from Amboise and stayed three nights at Rocamadour. From there, on day one we visited the Grotte de Pech-Merle and St Cirq Lapopie; day two, the Grottes de Cougnac, Sarlat, and tried to visit Lascaux II but could not get tickets. On our way to Aigues Mortes, which would be our next stop, we visited the Gouffre de Padirac and Conques. There was a market in the village of Lavergne and we bought some artisan Foi de Gras du canard which turned out to be delicious.
In Aigues Mortes we stayed for four nights and from there visited Nimes and Le Pont du Guard on day one . Day two was dedicated to Arles, which was having the Feria Pascale and there we saw a bullfight (I know many of you are against that) in the roman arena. Next day was for Avignon and a little bit of the Camargue. On our way to Perouges (our next stop) we visited Orange and its antique theatre.
I can't find my notes, but in 2002, in going from Paris towards Spain we stopped, among others in Perigeux for three nights. From there we visited Les Eyzies de Tayac, Grotte Font de Gaume, Grotee de Combarelles , Caverne de Bara Bahau and Chateau de Hautefort. From Perigeux we continued towards Oloron Ste Marie via Moissac. After spending a couple of weeks in Spain, on our way back to Paris, and coming in from the Seu d'Urgell in the Spanish Pyrenees, we stopped for five nights at St. Remy de Provence. While staying there we visited Les Beaux de Provence, Salon de Provence and Abbaye de Silvacane. We also visited Gordes, the Villade des Bories, Fontaine de Vaucluse, Rousillon and Abbaye de Senanque, Abbaye du Thoronet, and Saintes Maries de la Mer in the Camargue, among others.
On our way back to Paris, we have stayed in Troyes, which is a nice stop and has a couple of outlet shopping centers.
Jan 29th, 2011, 12:51 PM
#36
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Just want to say thank you to all contributors.
This thread is so helpful, as I'll be visiting and /or staying at many places mentioned here: Arrive into Toulouse, next day to Sarlat for five nights, travel via Carcassonne (only brief stop) and briefly Aigues Mortes, then to St Remy for 7 mights. Nearly all of this (the where's and how long's) have been influenced by you Fodor experts. Merci beaucoup!
Maitai, hello! I hope I can add something of value before your trip in 2012.
This thread is so helpful, as I'll be visiting and /or staying at many places mentioned here: Arrive into Toulouse, next day to Sarlat for five nights, travel via Carcassonne (only brief stop) and briefly Aigues Mortes, then to St Remy for 7 mights. Nearly all of this (the where's and how long's) have been influenced by you Fodor experts. Merci beaucoup!
Maitai, hello! I hope I can add something of value before your trip in 2012.
Jan 29th, 2011, 08:22 PM
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HI Tom: welcome back to Fodor's world of travel!
DH and I are planning a trip to the Dordogne with friends this Sept. And part of Oct., spending a week in western Perigord, then hoping to stay longer in Sarlat maybe,but am tempted by all those Dordogne experts postings to go back for a few days to the Domaine de la Rhue, where the hosts, the Joris family, took such good care of DH when his Lyme disease flared up and I thought he was a goner!
what lovely people,so I second St. Cirq and Stu Tower and was it Stu Dudley who suggested it.
I'll be able to report long before you leave, and can also WARN people that you're coming.
DH and I are planning a trip to the Dordogne with friends this Sept. And part of Oct., spending a week in western Perigord, then hoping to stay longer in Sarlat maybe,but am tempted by all those Dordogne experts postings to go back for a few days to the Domaine de la Rhue, where the hosts, the Joris family, took such good care of DH when his Lyme disease flared up and I thought he was a goner!
what lovely people,so I second St. Cirq and Stu Tower and was it Stu Dudley who suggested it.
I'll be able to report long before you leave, and can also WARN people that you're coming.
Jan 30th, 2011, 10:18 AM
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I will be returning this year for a one night stop at Domaine de la Rhue prior to a one week stay in the outskirts of Sarlat. I have fond memories of Christine and the Domaine de la Rhue.
http://www.domainedelarhue.com/gb/accueil.htm
MaiTaitom, some comments on your plan:
From LAX you can fly into Toulouse on the same ticket. We are flying AA via Chicago/Madrid and therefore avoiding the hassle of a one night stop in Paris.You would add additional day+ in the south of France.
For some of your stay in Provence I recommend
http://masperreal.com/index.html
Last year I stayed at the Mulino di Quercegrossa in Tuscany based on your trip report. I could not get my grandchildren away from that giant swimming complex.
http://www.domainedelarhue.com/gb/accueil.htm
MaiTaitom, some comments on your plan:
From LAX you can fly into Toulouse on the same ticket. We are flying AA via Chicago/Madrid and therefore avoiding the hassle of a one night stop in Paris.You would add additional day+ in the south of France.
For some of your stay in Provence I recommend
http://masperreal.com/index.html
Last year I stayed at the Mulino di Quercegrossa in Tuscany based on your trip report. I could not get my grandchildren away from that giant swimming complex.
