Maitai's Central (Don't Call It Eastern) European Excursion
Dec 2nd, 2008 | 08:30 AM
#243
Original Poster
Joined: Mar 2003
Posts: 10,639
Likes: 21
"Tom, I hope you and Tracy had a great Thanksgiving. But may I kindly request, not just for myself, but many other Fodorites, the next installment to this great story?
Tom"
From one Tom to another...I vow to finish the last three days before Christmas. Tracy is all over me to get going on the video, and I still haven't got all my pictures in order for the blog. This working-for-a-living thing is entirely overrated!
Tom"
From one Tom to another...I vow to finish the last three days before Christmas. Tracy is all over me to get going on the video, and I still haven't got all my pictures in order for the blog. This working-for-a-living thing is entirely overrated!
gobble gobble gobble!
Dec 3rd, 2008 | 05:32 PM
#246
Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 3,403
Likes: 0
your new theme song:
This is ground control to maitaitom, you've really made the grade!
And the papers want to know whose shirts you wear,
Now it's time to leave the capsule if you dare
This is maitaitom to ground control, I'm stepping through the door
And I'm floating in the most peculiar way
And the stars look very different today
email me... may need some inside info about the best place to tailgate... we're bowling
This is ground control to maitaitom, you've really made the grade!
And the papers want to know whose shirts you wear,
Now it's time to leave the capsule if you dare
This is maitaitom to ground control, I'm stepping through the door
And I'm floating in the most peculiar way
And the stars look very different today
email me... may need some inside info about the best place to tailgate... we're bowling
Dec 4th, 2008 | 12:58 PM
#247
Original Poster
Joined: Mar 2003
Posts: 10,639
Likes: 21
This is MaiTaiTom to Fodor's Board
I’m sitting at my desk,
And I’m writing in a most peculiar way,
And the Trip Report looks different today
For here am I sitting at my IMac.
There's the Buza Bar.
The Adriatic's blue
And there’s nothing I can do.
Though I’m past one hundred thousand words
I’m feeling very ill
And I think my story knows which way to go
Tell everyone I'll finish next week, I know.
I’m sitting at my desk,
And I’m writing in a most peculiar way,
And the Trip Report looks different today
For here am I sitting at my IMac.
There's the Buza Bar.
The Adriatic's blue
And there’s nothing I can do.
Though I’m past one hundred thousand words
I’m feeling very ill
And I think my story knows which way to go
Tell everyone I'll finish next week, I know.
Dec 5th, 2008 | 04:09 AM
#248
Joined: Jun 2007
Posts: 834
Likes: 0
Wow Maitaitom, first a great vacation planner, then entertaining and talented reporter of trips, now a songwriter!
I'm looking forward to the next installment although I know it is going to be sad too.
Maybe we could talk Fodors into giving us all jobs writing trip reports, so we wouldn't have to spend so much time away from here at work.
I'm looking forward to the next installment although I know it is going to be sad too.
Maybe we could talk Fodors into giving us all jobs writing trip reports, so we wouldn't have to spend so much time away from here at work.
Dec 8th, 2008 | 03:23 PM
#249
Original Poster
Joined: Mar 2003
Posts: 10,639
Likes: 21
<b> DAY TWENTY SIX – VORTEX OF SORROW, THE COFFEE COMEDY CAPER, BEAUTIFUL VENEZIA, FLIGHT PLAN, PLEASE DON’T HAVE A HEART ATTACK HERE, UP ON THE ROOFTOP, SHE’S GOT PANNA COTTA THIGHS AND SHINE ON HARVEST MOON </b>
It was between 4:30 and 5 a.m. when Tracy and I awoke to get ready to hop on the 7 a.m. ferry that would transport the four of us to our final European destination, Venice. I was out of bed first. Kim and Mary had given us their satellite phone to call home, and although I still had held out some slim hope for Cupid recovering, I had a bad feeling inside my stomach.
When the voice at the other end answered, I could immediately tell that my worst feelings were going to be, unfortunately, confirmed. “Cupid passed away about fifteen minutes ago,” our friend Susan told us. She was with Cupid when he died, and for that we were grateful.
I had to relay the bad news to Tracy, and by the time we met up with Kim and Mary, they could tell by our faces that we were now at, what we called, “The Vortex of Sorrow.”
The Porta Antica location, like I mentioned earlier, is just a short walk from where you catch the ferry, so at least that was positive.
As we waited for the ferry, the skies, in an attempt to mirror our mood, opened up, and we were greeted with a heavy downpour. The moment reminded me of Marty Feldman’s Igor in Young Frankenstein when he and Gene Wilder were exhuming the body.
“Could be worse,” Igor said. Dr. Frankenstein replied, “How?”
“Could be raining.”
Fortunately the ferry had arrived and we scurried on board.
Once underway, I decided I needed some caffeine to get me through this day. I got up and had them make me two cappuccinos. When they gave them to me, I found it odd that they had given me straws, but I took them and returned to my seat. It was now time for some Tom madcap comedy.
The boat was skipping over the rather rough seas at a good clip, and each time I attempted to raise the cup to my lips, the boat would bounce and the coffee would spill over the cup onto my pants. After watching me continue to partake in this fruitless endeavor for a few moments, Tracy reminded me that these straws were probably given to me for a reason.
The ferry made a quick stop in Piran, Slovenia, and then it was on to Venice. A few minutes out, I had a terrible thought. Tracy had booked that “expensive, non-refundable, non-exchangeable, no way in Hell you’re getting your money back” ticket to Los Angeles, and now, of course, there was no reason to go. I forget which online agency we bought them through, but now we were stressing about a huge payment we didn’t need to make.
The weather was turning progressively better as we zipped across the sea, and by the time we reached Venice, the skies were bright blue. Once again, location turned out to be on our side.
Venezia Lines dropped the passengers at a ferry building, which, as it turned out, was located only two bridges from our next hotel, Pension La Calcina, where the four of us stayed in 2005. Amazingly, the staff let us come back for a return engagement.
The first thing we asked was whether we could book the rooftop patio at the hotel for the evening, and we reserved it from 6 p.m. until 8 p.m. (I do not know why other guests do not take advantage of that space, but we are always happy that they don’t).
Before lunch, we told Kim and Mary that we had to go online (computer is located downstairs at La Calcina) and see if we could finagle a way out of having to pay for Tracy’s ticket, although we knew the chances of that were remote at best.
When we checked our email, we had a message that said, “Due to one of the legs of your trip becoming unavailable, we are going to have to cancel your entire itinerary. Your credit card will not be charged.” We were, of course, quite relieved.
Our room was the same as the one we had occupied in 2005. It was small and clean with a small patio that had just a sliver of a view of the Giudecca Canal (foreshadowing alert). We unpacked a few things and met Kim and Mary on the deck of the La Calcina restaurant, La Piscina, which sits out over the canal.
I had a delicious crepe with Gorgonzola and haricot verts. Mary enjoyed rice with zucchini and roasted yellow pepper sauce. Kim and Tracy had the pasta with pesto and green beans.
It was a gorgeous day, but at this moment, we were not the best traveling companions. We told Kim and Mary that we would meet up with them later so they didn’t have to be followed by the “Tom and Tracy” Black Cloud.
This might have been the most beautiful day we had ever encountered in Venice, but at this time, we just could not enjoy it. We meandered the alleys and found ourselves lost somewhere in the neighborhood behind San Marco.
I kept telling Tracy that my chest felt tight, but when she asked me to sit down I just kept walking (yes, I can be an idiot). Finally, after doing this for ten minutes, she said, “Either you sit down or you’re going to have to have a heart attack on your own.”
Well, although I was sad, I wasn’t quite in the mood to die, so I did what most people do when they think they might be having a heart attack. I went in search of the place where I had my first Cafe Corretto back in 2005. Nothing stops heart pain better than a little espresso and grappa, I thought.
Newly energized, we just did what we like best in Venice; walking aimlessly and getting lost. By now, it was coming upon the cocktail hour, which for us changes by the day.
On the way back to La Calcina, I stopped and picked up a bottle of wine at Cantine del Vino Schiavi. It just so happened they had a bottle of Lamole di Lamole Chianti, a place that the four of us had visited in 2005.
We met Kim and Mary in the lobby, and Tracy had to tell them about my fake heart attack. Well, that’s all Dr. Mary needed to hear (although not a doctor, she is a qualified dental hygienist and more knowledgeable than the doctors I go to on a regular basis). Mary had me sit in a chair in the lobby of the La Calcina and took my pulse. Fortunately, she did not pack a stethoscope.
“Tom,” she said. “I have determined that you did not have a heart attack but are suffering from heart break.” Of course, we all got a good laugh, proving once again that laughter is the best medicine. She prescribed that I go upstairs and take a shower. “After some rest, you’ll be fine to drink wine.”
Promptly at six, we met Kim and Mary on the rooftop. They had also purchased some vino, along with cheese, meat and bread (we always like to eat and drink before we go out and eat and drink).
“I found a special bottle of vino,” I told Kim.
He smiled and said, “Well, so did I, and I bet I know what you bought.” Sure enough we had bought the same wine at the same store.
It was a spectacular view that night out onto the canal from the rooftop at La Calcina (if you stay here, take advantage of this spot), and we toasted not only Cupid, but also our fantastic good fortune that we had been able to return to this beautiful place. Venice never ceases to amaze me.
We had planned on dining at a restaurant we had read about in Dorsoduro situated on a tiny alley called Osteria Al 4 Fei, but when we got there, we found out that it was closed for the month of June. Plan B turned out pretty good for us.
Located near the Campo San Barnaba and next door to the restaurant we had wanted to dine at on this evening, we saw a charming little restaurant called La Bitte. It had a tiny garden with four tables and a cozy interior.
We had a (at first) grumpy but (later) funny waitress who grew up in Kentucky, and the food was terrific. Mary and I decided on the lamb chops with peppers, zucchini, yams and mashed potatoes. Tracy went for the pasta with cherry tomatoes, while Kim had another pasta pesto (I think he just liked saying it).
Only one of us had dessert, and that, of course, was me. That’s because they had a scrumptious panna cotta with chocolate sauce on the menu. As our waitress handed it to me, she told me how much she loves eating panna cotta. Without missing a beat, to the tune of “Betty Davis Eyes,” she sang out, “That’s Why I’ve Got Panna Cotta Thighs.”
That night, as we walked back to La Calcina, there was a harvest moon that shone an amazing reflection onto the Giudecca Canal. It was truly spectacular, and, fortunately, Kim took a fantastic picture of it. The day that had started out so sad was coming to an end, and fortunately the beauty of Venice, while not erasing our sad memory, was at least able to captivate and charm us again.
Back up in the room, Tracy went to bed, but I was really restless as the thoughts of this very long day raced through my brain. I was drained. I decided to snatch one of the overpriced mini-bottles of wine from the mini-bar and sip it out on the patio.
I plunked myself down at the small table, opened the wine and poured it slowly. It was a very warm, comfortable evening with just a hint of a breeze. After taking a sip, I lifted my head to gaze out at my narrow view of the canal and what I witnessed still resonates with me today.
The harvest moon, seemingly at that exact moment in time, was filling up what I perceived as the entire sky and it was situated directly in front of me. The canal, its water lapping at the foot of the nearby bridge, appeared to be on fire from the reflection. The entire spectrum of my view was filled by this remarkable tableau, and the sheer beauty of it remains ingrained in my memory. To say the least, I was completely mesmerized by this phenomenon.
I was thinking, “This is absolutely incredible. I only have this miniscule view onto the canal, and look at what I am experiencing right now.”
At that moment, no matter how silly and improbable it seemed I truly believed Cupid was making a grand earthly exit and telling Tracy and me that he was fine. I had no doubt that if any cat could have pulled it off, it most certainly would have been him.
Crazy? Maybe. But one thing is for certain; that is one Venice view I will never, ever forget.
<b> COMING UP - DAY TWENTY SEVEN – BY GIORGIO WHAT A VIEW, EXPLORING NEW AREAS, WHO IS THAT MASKED MAN, ARE YOU SURE IT’S THIS WAY, ALAS NO CAT PUPPETS FOR US, SOCCER TO ME, UP ON THE ROOFTOP (PART TWO), INTIMATE CANAL DINING AND BATTLE OF THE BANDS </b>
It was between 4:30 and 5 a.m. when Tracy and I awoke to get ready to hop on the 7 a.m. ferry that would transport the four of us to our final European destination, Venice. I was out of bed first. Kim and Mary had given us their satellite phone to call home, and although I still had held out some slim hope for Cupid recovering, I had a bad feeling inside my stomach.
When the voice at the other end answered, I could immediately tell that my worst feelings were going to be, unfortunately, confirmed. “Cupid passed away about fifteen minutes ago,” our friend Susan told us. She was with Cupid when he died, and for that we were grateful.
I had to relay the bad news to Tracy, and by the time we met up with Kim and Mary, they could tell by our faces that we were now at, what we called, “The Vortex of Sorrow.”
The Porta Antica location, like I mentioned earlier, is just a short walk from where you catch the ferry, so at least that was positive.
As we waited for the ferry, the skies, in an attempt to mirror our mood, opened up, and we were greeted with a heavy downpour. The moment reminded me of Marty Feldman’s Igor in Young Frankenstein when he and Gene Wilder were exhuming the body.
“Could be worse,” Igor said. Dr. Frankenstein replied, “How?”
“Could be raining.”
Fortunately the ferry had arrived and we scurried on board.
Once underway, I decided I needed some caffeine to get me through this day. I got up and had them make me two cappuccinos. When they gave them to me, I found it odd that they had given me straws, but I took them and returned to my seat. It was now time for some Tom madcap comedy.
The boat was skipping over the rather rough seas at a good clip, and each time I attempted to raise the cup to my lips, the boat would bounce and the coffee would spill over the cup onto my pants. After watching me continue to partake in this fruitless endeavor for a few moments, Tracy reminded me that these straws were probably given to me for a reason.
The ferry made a quick stop in Piran, Slovenia, and then it was on to Venice. A few minutes out, I had a terrible thought. Tracy had booked that “expensive, non-refundable, non-exchangeable, no way in Hell you’re getting your money back” ticket to Los Angeles, and now, of course, there was no reason to go. I forget which online agency we bought them through, but now we were stressing about a huge payment we didn’t need to make.
The weather was turning progressively better as we zipped across the sea, and by the time we reached Venice, the skies were bright blue. Once again, location turned out to be on our side.
Venezia Lines dropped the passengers at a ferry building, which, as it turned out, was located only two bridges from our next hotel, Pension La Calcina, where the four of us stayed in 2005. Amazingly, the staff let us come back for a return engagement.
The first thing we asked was whether we could book the rooftop patio at the hotel for the evening, and we reserved it from 6 p.m. until 8 p.m. (I do not know why other guests do not take advantage of that space, but we are always happy that they don’t).
Before lunch, we told Kim and Mary that we had to go online (computer is located downstairs at La Calcina) and see if we could finagle a way out of having to pay for Tracy’s ticket, although we knew the chances of that were remote at best.
When we checked our email, we had a message that said, “Due to one of the legs of your trip becoming unavailable, we are going to have to cancel your entire itinerary. Your credit card will not be charged.” We were, of course, quite relieved.
Our room was the same as the one we had occupied in 2005. It was small and clean with a small patio that had just a sliver of a view of the Giudecca Canal (foreshadowing alert). We unpacked a few things and met Kim and Mary on the deck of the La Calcina restaurant, La Piscina, which sits out over the canal.
I had a delicious crepe with Gorgonzola and haricot verts. Mary enjoyed rice with zucchini and roasted yellow pepper sauce. Kim and Tracy had the pasta with pesto and green beans.
It was a gorgeous day, but at this moment, we were not the best traveling companions. We told Kim and Mary that we would meet up with them later so they didn’t have to be followed by the “Tom and Tracy” Black Cloud.
This might have been the most beautiful day we had ever encountered in Venice, but at this time, we just could not enjoy it. We meandered the alleys and found ourselves lost somewhere in the neighborhood behind San Marco.
I kept telling Tracy that my chest felt tight, but when she asked me to sit down I just kept walking (yes, I can be an idiot). Finally, after doing this for ten minutes, she said, “Either you sit down or you’re going to have to have a heart attack on your own.”
Well, although I was sad, I wasn’t quite in the mood to die, so I did what most people do when they think they might be having a heart attack. I went in search of the place where I had my first Cafe Corretto back in 2005. Nothing stops heart pain better than a little espresso and grappa, I thought.
Newly energized, we just did what we like best in Venice; walking aimlessly and getting lost. By now, it was coming upon the cocktail hour, which for us changes by the day.
On the way back to La Calcina, I stopped and picked up a bottle of wine at Cantine del Vino Schiavi. It just so happened they had a bottle of Lamole di Lamole Chianti, a place that the four of us had visited in 2005.
We met Kim and Mary in the lobby, and Tracy had to tell them about my fake heart attack. Well, that’s all Dr. Mary needed to hear (although not a doctor, she is a qualified dental hygienist and more knowledgeable than the doctors I go to on a regular basis). Mary had me sit in a chair in the lobby of the La Calcina and took my pulse. Fortunately, she did not pack a stethoscope.
“Tom,” she said. “I have determined that you did not have a heart attack but are suffering from heart break.” Of course, we all got a good laugh, proving once again that laughter is the best medicine. She prescribed that I go upstairs and take a shower. “After some rest, you’ll be fine to drink wine.”
Promptly at six, we met Kim and Mary on the rooftop. They had also purchased some vino, along with cheese, meat and bread (we always like to eat and drink before we go out and eat and drink).
“I found a special bottle of vino,” I told Kim.
He smiled and said, “Well, so did I, and I bet I know what you bought.” Sure enough we had bought the same wine at the same store.
It was a spectacular view that night out onto the canal from the rooftop at La Calcina (if you stay here, take advantage of this spot), and we toasted not only Cupid, but also our fantastic good fortune that we had been able to return to this beautiful place. Venice never ceases to amaze me.
We had planned on dining at a restaurant we had read about in Dorsoduro situated on a tiny alley called Osteria Al 4 Fei, but when we got there, we found out that it was closed for the month of June. Plan B turned out pretty good for us.
Located near the Campo San Barnaba and next door to the restaurant we had wanted to dine at on this evening, we saw a charming little restaurant called La Bitte. It had a tiny garden with four tables and a cozy interior.
We had a (at first) grumpy but (later) funny waitress who grew up in Kentucky, and the food was terrific. Mary and I decided on the lamb chops with peppers, zucchini, yams and mashed potatoes. Tracy went for the pasta with cherry tomatoes, while Kim had another pasta pesto (I think he just liked saying it).
Only one of us had dessert, and that, of course, was me. That’s because they had a scrumptious panna cotta with chocolate sauce on the menu. As our waitress handed it to me, she told me how much she loves eating panna cotta. Without missing a beat, to the tune of “Betty Davis Eyes,” she sang out, “That’s Why I’ve Got Panna Cotta Thighs.”
That night, as we walked back to La Calcina, there was a harvest moon that shone an amazing reflection onto the Giudecca Canal. It was truly spectacular, and, fortunately, Kim took a fantastic picture of it. The day that had started out so sad was coming to an end, and fortunately the beauty of Venice, while not erasing our sad memory, was at least able to captivate and charm us again.
Back up in the room, Tracy went to bed, but I was really restless as the thoughts of this very long day raced through my brain. I was drained. I decided to snatch one of the overpriced mini-bottles of wine from the mini-bar and sip it out on the patio.
I plunked myself down at the small table, opened the wine and poured it slowly. It was a very warm, comfortable evening with just a hint of a breeze. After taking a sip, I lifted my head to gaze out at my narrow view of the canal and what I witnessed still resonates with me today.
The harvest moon, seemingly at that exact moment in time, was filling up what I perceived as the entire sky and it was situated directly in front of me. The canal, its water lapping at the foot of the nearby bridge, appeared to be on fire from the reflection. The entire spectrum of my view was filled by this remarkable tableau, and the sheer beauty of it remains ingrained in my memory. To say the least, I was completely mesmerized by this phenomenon.
I was thinking, “This is absolutely incredible. I only have this miniscule view onto the canal, and look at what I am experiencing right now.”
At that moment, no matter how silly and improbable it seemed I truly believed Cupid was making a grand earthly exit and telling Tracy and me that he was fine. I had no doubt that if any cat could have pulled it off, it most certainly would have been him.
Crazy? Maybe. But one thing is for certain; that is one Venice view I will never, ever forget.
<b> COMING UP - DAY TWENTY SEVEN – BY GIORGIO WHAT A VIEW, EXPLORING NEW AREAS, WHO IS THAT MASKED MAN, ARE YOU SURE IT’S THIS WAY, ALAS NO CAT PUPPETS FOR US, SOCCER TO ME, UP ON THE ROOFTOP (PART TWO), INTIMATE CANAL DINING AND BATTLE OF THE BANDS </b>
Dec 8th, 2008 | 04:47 PM
#250
Joined: Dec 2006
Posts: 785
Likes: 0
Well, you always make me laugh.
Now you made me cry.
I'm so sorry about your sweet Cupid.
I'll think of him the next time I see a harvest moon. (Darn kitties, if they only knew what they did to us!)
Thank you for always posting your hilarious and touching antics.
Now you made me cry.
I'm so sorry about your sweet Cupid.
I'll think of him the next time I see a harvest moon. (Darn kitties, if they only knew what they did to us!)
Thank you for always posting your hilarious and touching antics.
Dec 9th, 2008 | 07:16 AM
#252
Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 1,827
Likes: 0
Tom,
Even though I knew it was coming, I still teared up at Cupid's passing.
I also think he somehow had something to do with the Harvest Moon you saw AND he had a paw in getting the flight segment canceled so you didn't have to pay for the expensive flight home.
Tom
Even though I knew it was coming, I still teared up at Cupid's passing.
I also think he somehow had something to do with the Harvest Moon you saw AND he had a paw in getting the flight segment canceled so you didn't have to pay for the expensive flight home.
Tom
Dec 9th, 2008 | 08:47 AM
#253
Original Poster
Joined: Mar 2003
Posts: 10,639
Likes: 21
"AND he had a paw in getting the flight segment canceled so you didn't have to pay for the expensive flight home."
Funny you should say that Tom. When we saw the email that said the flight segment had been canceled, we both said that Cupid had something to do with it. He was a clever cat.
NanBug and Yipper, that was a hard day to write about, even though it was nearly six months ago. And yes, Venice is still wonderful!
Funny you should say that Tom. When we saw the email that said the flight segment had been canceled, we both said that Cupid had something to do with it. He was a clever cat.
NanBug and Yipper, that was a hard day to write about, even though it was nearly six months ago. And yes, Venice is still wonderful!
Dec 9th, 2008 | 02:22 PM
#255
Joined: Dec 2006
Posts: 25,690
Likes: 0
Hi, maitaitom -
Like so many others, I've been laughing out loud while reading your delightful report, and am heartbroken to learn about Cupid. What a special cat to have helped with your airline arrangements AND provided you such a beautiful image!
Like so many others, I've been laughing out loud while reading your delightful report, and am heartbroken to learn about Cupid. What a special cat to have helped with your airline arrangements AND provided you such a beautiful image!
Dec 26th, 2008 | 07:30 PM
#256
Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 1,827
Likes: 0
"From one Tom to another...I vow to finish the last three days before Christmas."
Ahem, it is now the day AFTER Christmas, and I, along with the others are still waiting for the last 2 days!!
Just kidding. Like I have alot of room to talk. I didn't finish my last two trip reports. But then again, I don't your flair for writing.
Hope you and Tracy (and Mary and Kim) had a peaceful Christmas.
Tom
Ahem, it is now the day AFTER Christmas, and I, along with the others are still waiting for the last 2 days!!
Just kidding. Like I have alot of room to talk. I didn't finish my last two trip reports. But then again, I don't your flair for writing.
Hope you and Tracy (and Mary and Kim) had a peaceful Christmas.
Tom
Dec 31st, 2008 | 09:49 AM
#258
Original Poster
Joined: Mar 2003
Posts: 10,639
Likes: 21
"Ahem, it is now the day AFTER Christmas, and I, along with the others are still waiting for the last 2 days!!"
Tom, did I say which Christmas????
If I don't drink a bottle of tequila tonight, I think I'll finish it up during the Rose Parade tomorrow morning since (thankfully) I don't have to attend the parade this year.
Happy New Year!
Tom, did I say which Christmas????
If I don't drink a bottle of tequila tonight, I think I'll finish it up during the Rose Parade tomorrow morning since (thankfully) I don't have to attend the parade this year.
Happy New Year!
Jan 1st, 2009 | 12:54 PM
#259
Original Poster
Joined: Mar 2003
Posts: 10,639
Likes: 21
<b> DAY TWENTY SEVEN – A NEAR SLIP-UP, BY GIORGIO WHAT A VIEW, NO ABBOT IN CASTELLO, WHO IS THAT MASKED MAN, ALAS NO CAT PUPPETS, UP ON THE ROOFTOP (PART TWO), INTIMATE CANAL DINING AND BATTLE OF THE BANDS </b>
There is nothing quite like having your breakfast on a sunny, Venice morning overlooking a canal, but that is just what the four of us did at La Calcina. After my requisite number of espressos and cappuccinos (perhaps I should invent intravenous caffeine), it was on to the nearby vaporetto (we purchased the two-day pass), and after a quick little ride, we arrived at our first destination of the morning, San Giorgio Maggiore.
I had wanted to visit this 10th century church on our last visit to Venice, but the weather had not cooperated. Today, with the sun booming down upon us, I knew the views would be spectacular.
It was so beautiful that Tracy wanted to have her picture taken near the canal. Over the years, I have taken numerous “Tracy in Peril” pictures throughout the years, much to the consternation of her mom. Of course, she’s not really in peril, but we just make it seem that way in the photos.
On this morning, as Tracy feigned falling into the canal, she actually lost her footing on the slick surface, and starting slipping and sliding on the pavement and for a brief moment, I thought I might have a real “Tracy in Peril” photo of her floating (hopefully) in the canal. After a Michael Jackson Moon Walk move, she regained her footing, and it was on to the church.
After zipping through the downstairs interior, we bought our tickets to visit the campanile. We were directed to the elevator. “Elevator?” I said. Yes, there would be no stairs on this journey.
The views over San Marco and all of Venice were fantastic, and out in the distance we saw a huge church. As we perused our guidebook, we determined it was Santi Giovanni e Paolo in Castello, so we decided that would be our next stop.
Dubbed by some, “The Pantheon of Venice,” it is run by a Domenican order. It is also the place where the Doges’ funerals were held. More than 20 are buried here. There wasn’t an Abbot to be found, however.
After a quick bite to eat, we stopped by a shop that was making and selling masks. It was a husband and wife team, and the masks in this shop were quite beautiful. He gave us a lesson on how to differentiate between a mask made in Venice and one made in China. Obviously, I had killed too many brain cells, because five minutes afterward, I didn’t remember, but we did buy a mask, which the shop owners signed as a gift.
Kim and Mary and the two of us then went our separate ways for the afternoon. We had made our nightly La Calcina rooftop patio reservations and would hook up with them in the early evening.
We then went in search of the infamous Cat Puppet store where we had purchased one in 2005. I don’t know if it was because of our sadness or the store didn’t have as many choices, but Cat Puppets would not be purchased on this trip. Instead, I opted for another Café Corretto, meaning I was now ten times over the caffeine limit for the day.
We took a circuitous route back to La Calcina (the recommended way to visit Venice) and stopped at another mask store in Dorsoduro (they said they had made some of the masks for the movie “Eyes Wide Shut”). Since I had never seen (nor ever will) the movie, I took them at their word.
Tracy then took a little nap, while I walked over to a little wine shop. A short time later, we were back up on the roof for “Vino Time.”
Our restaurant for the evening was Cantinone Storico, on a little canal near our hotel. The dinner was enjoyable, but not memorable.
This was our fourth visit to Venice and we had never gone to Piazza San Marco late at night to hear the “Battle of the Bands,” but that would change this evening. We made our way to Caffé Florian, which has been here for nearly 300 years, and sat down at one of the tables, which means even before we were served, we were now destitute.
For the next hour and a half, we enjoyed a couple of champagne cocktails each and the delightful orchestra. Of course, we paid way too much money, but enjoyed every minute of it. When “our” orchestra took one of its breaks, we could hear the orchestra playing from the other side of the piazza at the Caffé Quadri.
Am I glad we finally decided to experience this Venice tradition? Absolutely! Would I do it again? Only if my portfolio gets back near to where it was when we were in Venice.
We navigated our tired bodies back to La Calcina and went to sleep knowing our epic trip was nearly at an end.
<b> COMING UP - DAYS TWENTY EIGHT AND TWENTY NINE – A HOT TIME IN THE OLD TOWN, A DAY AT THE OPERA (HOUSE), SIGHS MATTERS, STOPPA THE GRAPPA, THE LAST SUPPER AND ARRIVEDERCHI VENEZIA </b>
There is nothing quite like having your breakfast on a sunny, Venice morning overlooking a canal, but that is just what the four of us did at La Calcina. After my requisite number of espressos and cappuccinos (perhaps I should invent intravenous caffeine), it was on to the nearby vaporetto (we purchased the two-day pass), and after a quick little ride, we arrived at our first destination of the morning, San Giorgio Maggiore.
I had wanted to visit this 10th century church on our last visit to Venice, but the weather had not cooperated. Today, with the sun booming down upon us, I knew the views would be spectacular.
It was so beautiful that Tracy wanted to have her picture taken near the canal. Over the years, I have taken numerous “Tracy in Peril” pictures throughout the years, much to the consternation of her mom. Of course, she’s not really in peril, but we just make it seem that way in the photos.
On this morning, as Tracy feigned falling into the canal, she actually lost her footing on the slick surface, and starting slipping and sliding on the pavement and for a brief moment, I thought I might have a real “Tracy in Peril” photo of her floating (hopefully) in the canal. After a Michael Jackson Moon Walk move, she regained her footing, and it was on to the church.
After zipping through the downstairs interior, we bought our tickets to visit the campanile. We were directed to the elevator. “Elevator?” I said. Yes, there would be no stairs on this journey.
The views over San Marco and all of Venice were fantastic, and out in the distance we saw a huge church. As we perused our guidebook, we determined it was Santi Giovanni e Paolo in Castello, so we decided that would be our next stop.
Dubbed by some, “The Pantheon of Venice,” it is run by a Domenican order. It is also the place where the Doges’ funerals were held. More than 20 are buried here. There wasn’t an Abbot to be found, however.
After a quick bite to eat, we stopped by a shop that was making and selling masks. It was a husband and wife team, and the masks in this shop were quite beautiful. He gave us a lesson on how to differentiate between a mask made in Venice and one made in China. Obviously, I had killed too many brain cells, because five minutes afterward, I didn’t remember, but we did buy a mask, which the shop owners signed as a gift.
Kim and Mary and the two of us then went our separate ways for the afternoon. We had made our nightly La Calcina rooftop patio reservations and would hook up with them in the early evening.
We then went in search of the infamous Cat Puppet store where we had purchased one in 2005. I don’t know if it was because of our sadness or the store didn’t have as many choices, but Cat Puppets would not be purchased on this trip. Instead, I opted for another Café Corretto, meaning I was now ten times over the caffeine limit for the day.
We took a circuitous route back to La Calcina (the recommended way to visit Venice) and stopped at another mask store in Dorsoduro (they said they had made some of the masks for the movie “Eyes Wide Shut”). Since I had never seen (nor ever will) the movie, I took them at their word.
Tracy then took a little nap, while I walked over to a little wine shop. A short time later, we were back up on the roof for “Vino Time.”
Our restaurant for the evening was Cantinone Storico, on a little canal near our hotel. The dinner was enjoyable, but not memorable.
This was our fourth visit to Venice and we had never gone to Piazza San Marco late at night to hear the “Battle of the Bands,” but that would change this evening. We made our way to Caffé Florian, which has been here for nearly 300 years, and sat down at one of the tables, which means even before we were served, we were now destitute.
For the next hour and a half, we enjoyed a couple of champagne cocktails each and the delightful orchestra. Of course, we paid way too much money, but enjoyed every minute of it. When “our” orchestra took one of its breaks, we could hear the orchestra playing from the other side of the piazza at the Caffé Quadri.
Am I glad we finally decided to experience this Venice tradition? Absolutely! Would I do it again? Only if my portfolio gets back near to where it was when we were in Venice.
We navigated our tired bodies back to La Calcina and went to sleep knowing our epic trip was nearly at an end.
<b> COMING UP - DAYS TWENTY EIGHT AND TWENTY NINE – A HOT TIME IN THE OLD TOWN, A DAY AT THE OPERA (HOUSE), SIGHS MATTERS, STOPPA THE GRAPPA, THE LAST SUPPER AND ARRIVEDERCHI VENEZIA </b>
