Maitai's Central (Don't Call It Eastern) European Excursion
Sep 26th, 2008, 08:49 PM
#201
Join Date: Aug 2008
Posts: 70
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Tom,
I stumbled upon this thread (im a newbie, as you might have guessed, your account is way too funny. I went back to the very beginning of the trip report to read Day 1.
You mentioned you're from southern calif, whereabouts are you? i'm in Orange County.
Awaiting Day 23 with bated breath.
I stumbled upon this thread (im a newbie, as you might have guessed, your account is way too funny. I went back to the very beginning of the trip report to read Day 1.
You mentioned you're from southern calif, whereabouts are you? i'm in Orange County.
Awaiting Day 23 with bated breath.
Sep 26th, 2008, 08:55 PM
#202
Original Poster
"All right Tom, I'm back and I'm all caught up...where are you?"
I had to rush back to Washington D.C. to help straighten out the budget mess.
What? That's already been used?
Truthfully, this past week I had to focus on work. Starting Sunday or Monday, I promise to bring closure to this darned thing.
I had to rush back to Washington D.C. to help straighten out the budget mess.
What? That's already been used?
Truthfully, this past week I had to focus on work. Starting Sunday or Monday, I promise to bring closure to this darned thing.
Sep 29th, 2008, 03:37 PM
#206
Original Poster
<b>DAY TWENTY TWO – TOO EARLY FOR CHAMPAGNE, GET ME TO THE CHURCH ON TIME, CAN YOU GIVE ME A LIFT, WALK AROUND THE LAKE, PUBBING IT AND HERE COMES THAT RAINY DAY FEELING AGAIN </b>
By morning the rain had subsided, and we decided to get an early start because Luka had said the forecast called for more rain by the middle of the day. Our local Southern California goofball weather forecasters are about as accurate as my golf shots (that would basically be never), but so far on this journey, the reports had been almost perfect.
I was the first one down at the charming Berc Breakfast room, but it started filling up with travelers. One man, who I believe was German (I had run into him the previous day at the computer), walked into the room, saw me sitting at the first table and said, “Good morning.”
I am very happy to inform those Europeans on the board who believe Americans don’t respond to such early morning greetings, that, although sluggish from a tad bit too much wine the previous evening, I looked up from my caffeine and replied, “Good morning.”
The rest of our gang joined me shortly thereafter, and we partook of a breakfast buffet that included fruit salad, cereal, yogurt, meats, cheeses and hard-boiled eggs. The Hotel Berc gets high marks for everything from the rooms to the buffet to Luka, who was a terrific host.
Our plan had been to take the pletna boats to the island first thing in the morning, but because of the previous night’s rain, the pletna gondoliers were still bailing water out of most of them. Not wanting to drown on a full stomach, we decided to postpone the island trip for a bit.
Still loaded down by all those excess carbs, we walked over to St. Martin’s Church where we caught the steep trail leading up to the Blejski Grad (Bled Castle). In Rick Steves’ guidebook, he said it was a 20-minute walk to the castle. We made it in ten. For those who can’t hike (or for the extremely lazy), it is possible to drive up here, too, but that is not allowed on Tom’s Tuscan-Slovenian-Croatian-Czech-Polish Tours (I better come up with a shorter name by the next trip).
Entrance to the castle is 7€. The interior of the castle was entirely forgettable with uninteresting displays. However, the views of Lake Bled and the little island were incredible from the castle patio.
This is also the place where the monk entertains visitors by performing Sabrage on champagne bottles for 15€ a pop. We walked over and talked with the monk, who was quite funny, but we decided that since it was just a little after 9 a.m., it was a tad too early for champagne (yes, even we have our alcohol limits, albeit they are very narrow limits to be sure).
We took the path back down to the lake, where the pletnas were now devoid of excess water and starting to take off for the island. Our pletna gondolier waited for the boat to fill up, and when enough people were on it to make it worthwhile for him, we were off on the short ride to the Otok (the island).
Our skilled gondolier weaved his way through a rowing competition and delivered us to the island safely.
When he dumped us off, he said we had thirty minutes until he would head back to shore. The island big-ticket item is the Church of Assumption and its famous 96 stairs, where grooms supposedly carry their brides all the way to the top from the lake.
We started to climb the stairs, but I thought it would be fun to pick Tracy up for a photo opportunity that would dazzle our friends when we got home. This way I could tell them I carried Tracy up 96 stairs (yes, I know they wouldn’t believe it, but what the heck). I would muster up all my superhuman strength and attempt to pluck my lovely wife and lift her skyward as Kim captured the moment on his camera. It would be a magical moment.
With one fell swoop I lifted and, well let me just say, it is only a mild hernia. Tracy was laughing so hard she could barely get off her trademarked line, “You’re such an idiot.”
A couple of minutes later Mary delivered even more distressing news. “Tom, these are not the right set of stairs,” she said. “The 96 stairs you were talking about are on the other side of the island.”
I was incredulous. Not only had I ruptured my spleen, pulled a groin and thrown my shoulder out of whack, but I did it all on the wrong stairs.
I limped over to the other side of the island, where we climbed (slowly) the correct 96 stairs (there was no more lifting, however) to the church. Although you can go inside, we did not. Many did, however, because the bell kept clanging and clanging thanks to the folklore that if one rings the bell three times, their wish will come true. I thought about going in and wishing for a new body, but realized I was too far gone to be helped.
The round-trip pletna experience cost us 12€ per person, and if you come to Bled, it is something you should do. I would pass, however, on the lifting experience unless you are in better shape than myself or are married to one of the skeletal stars of 90210.
The weather was threatening, but we decided to take the 3˝-mile hike around the lake. This is a very easy hike and took us about 90 minutes to accomplish.
Along the route, we went inside the Vila Bled, which was the former residence of Tito (the dictator, not the Jackson 5 member). It is now a hotel, where I almost booked us, and, after visiting, we were glad we did not stay here. Although we had friends who said they had a wonderful time at this hotel, it was just a little too posh and polished for our tastes.
Speaking of tastes, we had nearly completed the loop around the lake when the skies opened up, so we went in search of cover…and lunch. We had met some Brits on the pletna ride, and they recommended a pub that served a really good lunch, Gostilna pri Planincu, which has been around since 1903 (or so it said on its façade).
Inside, there were license plates on the ceiling, which always says to me “delicious cuisine.” Because of the inclement weather, the inside of the pub was packed, so, in what was now becoming a Bled tradition, we ate outside in the freezing weather, but at least under an awning that kept the rain from pouring down upon our table. License plates not withstanding, the food actually was very good.
On a cold day, nothing can beat a bowl of goulash soup, and the one I ordered did not disappoint. It was chock full of beef chunks and made me forget for the moment that I was losing feeling in many of my extremities.
Mary and I, thanks to a recommendation of a gentleman from Portugal sitting at the next table, had a local specialty of far too many sausages that, I believe, are still residing in my system to this very day. Kim went for the garlic soup, grilled chicken and French fries while Tracy had the grilled calamari with potatoes and spinach.
We had a nice, long talk with the Portuguese guy who was in Bled on business. One of the things we love so much about travel is the interesting and diverse people we meet along the way.
The walk back to the hotel was interesting since the wind had picked up and was blowing the pouring rain into our faces. By the time we trudged back to Hotel Berc, it looked like the four of us had taken a swim in Lake Bled.
After a nice afternoon nap and terrible movie on the making of the television show Dynasty, we all met in the backyard of the Hotel Berc and sipped some wine. The hotel also had a little stash of alcohol in the breakfast room. Whether it’s booze, orange juice or water, if you take anything from the little bar area or refrigerator, you are on the honor system to write it down.
For dinner that evening we went back to the Ostarija Peglezn, where we had dined the previous evening. This time, however, we were seated indoors, much to the delight of a certain Mrs. Maitai.
My choice of dinner perplexed our waiter and everyone else at the table. I ordered gnocchi with pancetta to start and followed that up with arugula gnocchi with four cheeses.
“Are you sure you want two gnocchi dishes for dinner?” he asked.
“Yes,” I answered. You can never have to much gnocchi.
Mary dined on a grilled, fresh tuna steak on a bed of grilled veggies. Tracy had the beef on a bed of arugula, while Kim enjoyed his cheese gnocchi and grilled salmon.
I finished it off with a great dessert called Charlotte Cake. It was similar to panecotta and had a terrific strawberry sauce drizzled on it. The days of having my pants slip off due to my skinny frame were long gone. I was now “The Incredible Expanding Man.”
As we walked back to Hotel Berc, we could see some clear sky opening up through the cloud cover. We were leaving Bled in the morning for our drive to Rovinj, Croatia, but we did hope we could get a glimpse of this lovely place on a clear day before departing.
<b>COMING UP – DAY TWENTY THREE – SWAN SONG, CAKE WALK, GORGING OURSELVES, HORSING AROUND, THE ROAD TO ZANIBAR AND LOCATION! LOCATION! LOCATION!</b>
By morning the rain had subsided, and we decided to get an early start because Luka had said the forecast called for more rain by the middle of the day. Our local Southern California goofball weather forecasters are about as accurate as my golf shots (that would basically be never), but so far on this journey, the reports had been almost perfect.
I was the first one down at the charming Berc Breakfast room, but it started filling up with travelers. One man, who I believe was German (I had run into him the previous day at the computer), walked into the room, saw me sitting at the first table and said, “Good morning.”
I am very happy to inform those Europeans on the board who believe Americans don’t respond to such early morning greetings, that, although sluggish from a tad bit too much wine the previous evening, I looked up from my caffeine and replied, “Good morning.”
The rest of our gang joined me shortly thereafter, and we partook of a breakfast buffet that included fruit salad, cereal, yogurt, meats, cheeses and hard-boiled eggs. The Hotel Berc gets high marks for everything from the rooms to the buffet to Luka, who was a terrific host.
Our plan had been to take the pletna boats to the island first thing in the morning, but because of the previous night’s rain, the pletna gondoliers were still bailing water out of most of them. Not wanting to drown on a full stomach, we decided to postpone the island trip for a bit.
Still loaded down by all those excess carbs, we walked over to St. Martin’s Church where we caught the steep trail leading up to the Blejski Grad (Bled Castle). In Rick Steves’ guidebook, he said it was a 20-minute walk to the castle. We made it in ten. For those who can’t hike (or for the extremely lazy), it is possible to drive up here, too, but that is not allowed on Tom’s Tuscan-Slovenian-Croatian-Czech-Polish Tours (I better come up with a shorter name by the next trip).
Entrance to the castle is 7€. The interior of the castle was entirely forgettable with uninteresting displays. However, the views of Lake Bled and the little island were incredible from the castle patio.
This is also the place where the monk entertains visitors by performing Sabrage on champagne bottles for 15€ a pop. We walked over and talked with the monk, who was quite funny, but we decided that since it was just a little after 9 a.m., it was a tad too early for champagne (yes, even we have our alcohol limits, albeit they are very narrow limits to be sure).
We took the path back down to the lake, where the pletnas were now devoid of excess water and starting to take off for the island. Our pletna gondolier waited for the boat to fill up, and when enough people were on it to make it worthwhile for him, we were off on the short ride to the Otok (the island).
Our skilled gondolier weaved his way through a rowing competition and delivered us to the island safely.
When he dumped us off, he said we had thirty minutes until he would head back to shore. The island big-ticket item is the Church of Assumption and its famous 96 stairs, where grooms supposedly carry their brides all the way to the top from the lake.
We started to climb the stairs, but I thought it would be fun to pick Tracy up for a photo opportunity that would dazzle our friends when we got home. This way I could tell them I carried Tracy up 96 stairs (yes, I know they wouldn’t believe it, but what the heck). I would muster up all my superhuman strength and attempt to pluck my lovely wife and lift her skyward as Kim captured the moment on his camera. It would be a magical moment.
With one fell swoop I lifted and, well let me just say, it is only a mild hernia. Tracy was laughing so hard she could barely get off her trademarked line, “You’re such an idiot.”
A couple of minutes later Mary delivered even more distressing news. “Tom, these are not the right set of stairs,” she said. “The 96 stairs you were talking about are on the other side of the island.”
I was incredulous. Not only had I ruptured my spleen, pulled a groin and thrown my shoulder out of whack, but I did it all on the wrong stairs.
I limped over to the other side of the island, where we climbed (slowly) the correct 96 stairs (there was no more lifting, however) to the church. Although you can go inside, we did not. Many did, however, because the bell kept clanging and clanging thanks to the folklore that if one rings the bell three times, their wish will come true. I thought about going in and wishing for a new body, but realized I was too far gone to be helped.
The round-trip pletna experience cost us 12€ per person, and if you come to Bled, it is something you should do. I would pass, however, on the lifting experience unless you are in better shape than myself or are married to one of the skeletal stars of 90210.
The weather was threatening, but we decided to take the 3˝-mile hike around the lake. This is a very easy hike and took us about 90 minutes to accomplish.
Along the route, we went inside the Vila Bled, which was the former residence of Tito (the dictator, not the Jackson 5 member). It is now a hotel, where I almost booked us, and, after visiting, we were glad we did not stay here. Although we had friends who said they had a wonderful time at this hotel, it was just a little too posh and polished for our tastes.
Speaking of tastes, we had nearly completed the loop around the lake when the skies opened up, so we went in search of cover…and lunch. We had met some Brits on the pletna ride, and they recommended a pub that served a really good lunch, Gostilna pri Planincu, which has been around since 1903 (or so it said on its façade).
Inside, there were license plates on the ceiling, which always says to me “delicious cuisine.” Because of the inclement weather, the inside of the pub was packed, so, in what was now becoming a Bled tradition, we ate outside in the freezing weather, but at least under an awning that kept the rain from pouring down upon our table. License plates not withstanding, the food actually was very good.
On a cold day, nothing can beat a bowl of goulash soup, and the one I ordered did not disappoint. It was chock full of beef chunks and made me forget for the moment that I was losing feeling in many of my extremities.
Mary and I, thanks to a recommendation of a gentleman from Portugal sitting at the next table, had a local specialty of far too many sausages that, I believe, are still residing in my system to this very day. Kim went for the garlic soup, grilled chicken and French fries while Tracy had the grilled calamari with potatoes and spinach.
We had a nice, long talk with the Portuguese guy who was in Bled on business. One of the things we love so much about travel is the interesting and diverse people we meet along the way.
The walk back to the hotel was interesting since the wind had picked up and was blowing the pouring rain into our faces. By the time we trudged back to Hotel Berc, it looked like the four of us had taken a swim in Lake Bled.
After a nice afternoon nap and terrible movie on the making of the television show Dynasty, we all met in the backyard of the Hotel Berc and sipped some wine. The hotel also had a little stash of alcohol in the breakfast room. Whether it’s booze, orange juice or water, if you take anything from the little bar area or refrigerator, you are on the honor system to write it down.
For dinner that evening we went back to the Ostarija Peglezn, where we had dined the previous evening. This time, however, we were seated indoors, much to the delight of a certain Mrs. Maitai.
My choice of dinner perplexed our waiter and everyone else at the table. I ordered gnocchi with pancetta to start and followed that up with arugula gnocchi with four cheeses.
“Are you sure you want two gnocchi dishes for dinner?” he asked.
“Yes,” I answered. You can never have to much gnocchi.
Mary dined on a grilled, fresh tuna steak on a bed of grilled veggies. Tracy had the beef on a bed of arugula, while Kim enjoyed his cheese gnocchi and grilled salmon.
I finished it off with a great dessert called Charlotte Cake. It was similar to panecotta and had a terrific strawberry sauce drizzled on it. The days of having my pants slip off due to my skinny frame were long gone. I was now “The Incredible Expanding Man.”
As we walked back to Hotel Berc, we could see some clear sky opening up through the cloud cover. We were leaving Bled in the morning for our drive to Rovinj, Croatia, but we did hope we could get a glimpse of this lovely place on a clear day before departing.
<b>COMING UP – DAY TWENTY THREE – SWAN SONG, CAKE WALK, GORGING OURSELVES, HORSING AROUND, THE ROAD TO ZANIBAR AND LOCATION! LOCATION! LOCATION!</b>
Sep 30th, 2008, 07:33 AM
#208
Original Poster
"My husband hates it when I'm laughing out loud while I read.."
You might want him to leave the house when I actually post that picture of me trying to carry Tracy up the stairs.
You might want him to leave the house when I actually post that picture of me trying to carry Tracy up the stairs.
Oct 1st, 2008, 02:23 PM
#212
Join Date: Sep 2005
Posts: 6,818
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Tom and Tracy:
I'm still with you on your superb reporting...I've seen most everything you guys have experienced on your trip, YET seeing it through your eyes adds a very pleasant dimension...most particulalrly on Slovenia/Croatia.
Where are the pics!!
Now to the GNOCCHI GNEWS! Since you are nearby Pasadenians, the very best and greatest variety of gnocchi can be found in Sherman Oaks, 14533 Ventura Boulevard.."SPUMONI's...a little place offering 10 different GNOCCHI dishes...a whole menu page! My fave is the pesto.
Whenever you get the incurable "gnocchi urge", head west on Ventura Freeway, get off at Van Nuys Boulevard, turn left (under the freeway) and drive to Ventura Boulevard (less than a mile)...turn right and stop in at SPUMONI'S, parking in the rear.
I live just up the hill at Beverly Glen Blvd/Mulholland...write me when you decide to try it out, and Roz and I will try to join you.
Thanks once again for this unmatchable report!
stu tower
I'm still with you on your superb reporting...I've seen most everything you guys have experienced on your trip, YET seeing it through your eyes adds a very pleasant dimension...most particulalrly on Slovenia/Croatia.
Where are the pics!!
Now to the GNOCCHI GNEWS! Since you are nearby Pasadenians, the very best and greatest variety of gnocchi can be found in Sherman Oaks, 14533 Ventura Boulevard.."SPUMONI's...a little place offering 10 different GNOCCHI dishes...a whole menu page! My fave is the pesto.
Whenever you get the incurable "gnocchi urge", head west on Ventura Freeway, get off at Van Nuys Boulevard, turn left (under the freeway) and drive to Ventura Boulevard (less than a mile)...turn right and stop in at SPUMONI'S, parking in the rear.
I live just up the hill at Beverly Glen Blvd/Mulholland...write me when you decide to try it out, and Roz and I will try to join you.
Thanks once again for this unmatchable report!
stu tower
Oct 1st, 2008, 03:56 PM
#213
Original Poster
"Whenever you get the incurable "gnocchi urge".....
stu, the "gnocchi urge" is always with me. This is a busy time of year for me at work, but when it subsides (unlike the "gnocchi urge), rest assured we would be happy to join you guys for a gnocchi interlude. Thanks for the nice words.
As for pictures, I have to finish up Rovinj and Venice for this report, and then I will get the blog up with photos(still have to cut down on the pictures, but there are so many good ones, it is hard to do). And Tracy wants me to get moving on the video! These trips really never end!
stu, the "gnocchi urge" is always with me. This is a busy time of year for me at work, but when it subsides (unlike the "gnocchi urge), rest assured we would be happy to join you guys for a gnocchi interlude. Thanks for the nice words.
As for pictures, I have to finish up Rovinj and Venice for this report, and then I will get the blog up with photos(still have to cut down on the pictures, but there are so many good ones, it is hard to do). And Tracy wants me to get moving on the video! These trips really never end!
Oct 1st, 2008, 06:40 PM
#214
Join Date: Sep 2005
Posts: 6,818
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
T and T:
>>>These trips really never end!<<<
...and then it's time to plan for the next one. We "did" Portugal and UK this past May, and we were planning Russia, Belarus and Ukraine for next spring...but in August I got a 2-for-1 offer from Viking, I couldn't refuse...for October 14..leaving a week from Sunday. Talk about a "Chinese Fire Drill" to get ready!
The visa application for Belarus (decidedly third world) required an answer to an essay question.."Why do you want to visit Belarus?"
SAY WHAT?
Fact is we're taking the river trip Moscow to St. Pete (my third visit to what was USSR..first visit since the end of the Red regime)...then we're going off indepdendently to the aformentioned happy satellites. (we'll be back on Election Day)
Anytime you're ready to go "gnocch-ing..write..
Stu Tower [email protected]
essa
>>>These trips really never end!<<<
...and then it's time to plan for the next one. We "did" Portugal and UK this past May, and we were planning Russia, Belarus and Ukraine for next spring...but in August I got a 2-for-1 offer from Viking, I couldn't refuse...for October 14..leaving a week from Sunday. Talk about a "Chinese Fire Drill" to get ready!
The visa application for Belarus (decidedly third world) required an answer to an essay question.."Why do you want to visit Belarus?"
SAY WHAT?
Fact is we're taking the river trip Moscow to St. Pete (my third visit to what was USSR..first visit since the end of the Red regime)...then we're going off indepdendently to the aformentioned happy satellites. (we'll be back on Election Day)
Anytime you're ready to go "gnocch-ing..write..
Stu Tower [email protected]
essa
Oct 6th, 2008, 04:37 PM
#215
Original Poster
<b> DAY TWENTY THREE – SWAN SONG, CAKE WALK, GORGING OURSELVES, HORSING AROUND, THE ROAD TO ZANIBAR AND LOCATION! LOCATION! LOCATION!</b>
Sunshine! Blue skies! Finally! So this is what Lake Bled looks like on a beautiful day? It was stunning.
Up very early, we strolled about half way around the lake, taking new and improved sunshine pictures of the lake, the castle, the island and anything else we could find. I know Eddie Rabbitt loved a Rainy Day, but as beautiful as Lake Bled was the past couple of days in the dampness, being here on a perfectly sunny day is ten times better.
As we meandered on the lakeside path, a family of swans (well, they looked like a family because they were fighting) approached us, apparently looking for someone to give them a breakfast treat. Heeding the warning signs not to feed the swans anything but dandelion leaves, so, being the suckers we are, Tracy picked up a handful of leaves and threw them to the hungry little guys.
They gobbled it up faster than me scarfing down a kremna rezina. “This must be swan arugula,” she said.
Speaking of kremna rezina, it was almost 10 a.m. when we strolled up to the Hotel Park, the birthplace of my new favorite food on earth (ok, maybe it was tied with gnocchi). I was having cake withdrawal syndrome, and it wasn’t pretty.
It was already about 20 degrees warmer than it had been at anytime since we had arrived. We sat down at a table on the outside patio with a beautiful view of the lake and the morning’s rowing competition. Fortunately the waitress, sensing my kremna rezina withdrawal symptoms, immediately stopped by the table to take our order. If anyone is traveling to Bled in the near future, please Federal Express me some kremna rezina. Life has not been the same without it.
What a way to end our short stay in Bled! Beautiful weather, two double espressos and kremna rezina.
We wanted to stay, but there was a full day of sightseeing activities ahead of us, and this was no time to dawdle. We bade farewell to Luka and the terrific Hotel Berc to head toward our first stop of the day, Vintgar Gorge, which, Luka told us, was only a few minutes away. Well, it would have been only a few minutes had we followed the correct signs.
Once there, we walked to the little shack where you pay the 4€ admittance fee and within a few seconds we were in the midst of picturesque scenery. Although not hyped by many, the four of us thought Vintgar Gorge was one of the super highlights of our four weeks.
Similar to Plitvice, there was a boardwalk with handrails, and the path paralleled the river Radovna. Bridges crisscrossed this fast flowing river that also contains a number of waterfalls. The views were stunning, and this hike rivaled Plitvice for the number of photos taken. We walked all the way to a big waterfall. It took approximately one hour (due to the many photo opportunities along the way) from the entrance to the large waterfall. The return hike to the parking lot took about 25 minutes. For those of you who travel to Bled, I highly suggest a side trip to Vintgar Gorge.
Back in the car, we headed toward Ljubljana, where we got on the highway pointed toward our next destination on the way to Rovinj, Croatia. About an hour south of Ljubljana was the turnoff to Lipica, home of the Kobilarna Lipica (Lipica Stud Farm) and the famed Lipizzaner stallions.
This had been high on Tracy’s list because she grew up around horses, which is probably why I looked and smelled good to her when we first met. Tracy had performed at numerous horse shows in Northern California growing up, so she was very high on seeing these prancing phenoms.
The stud farm was located about ten minutes off the main highway, and we were on pace to be able to see the horses out in the field and catch the show at 3 p.m. We walked over to the paddock area where a bunch of the Lipizzaner mares were hanging out, and after about ten minutes of petting and picture taking, we trotted over to the concession stand to get a bite to eat.
Unless you haven’t eaten for a few days, I recommend skipping the food here. Abysmal would be a kind description. And, as for souvenirs, this place needs some marketing expertise to help them out.
The 3 o’clock show was about to begin, so we bought our tickets for 16€ each and entered the Lipizzaner Dome (not its real name) for the half hour extravaganza. Here is where reports of the show might differ among those of us who have attended this show.
For about ten of those minutes, a couple of carriages being pulled by these nags (excuse me, incredibly talented steeds) crisscrossed (slowly) around the Horsey Dome (not its real name). Charlton Heston in Ben Hur, it was not.
For another ten minutes, the Mr. Ed look-alikes performed dressage while riders whose personalities would make Brit Hume look jovial (actually, the horses bore an uncanny resemblance to the Fox pseudo journalist) pretended to be interested in the proceedings.
Then for another ten minutes, we had to look on excruciatingly as the horses leapt up to stand only on their hind legs. I had visions of Barbaro as these horses were forced to perform these feats of daring-do, which really after the first time was hard to look at.
Afterward, Mary (the nice one in our group) turned to Tracy and said sincerely, “That was very interesting.” I believe that is when Kim and I erupted in laughter (or perhaps we whinnied). Even Tracy had to snicker.
“No really,” Mary went on. “That was fun to see.”
Tracy did say that what we saw was not easy to do for either the riders or the horses, and Kim and I, in between bouts of uncontrollable laughter, agreed. Was it worth it? I’ll leave that up to others, but I say, "Neigh." I will admit, however, I liked it when the horses went into a kind of sideways stutter step that reminded me of myself dancing after drinking heavily.
Well, needless to say, we decided not to take the tour of the farm, so we hoofed it out of there and piled back in the car for the trip to Rovinj, which would take about another 90 minutes or so.
As we approached our destination, there were multiple signs to Rovinj. The problem was that the signs pointed in different directions. Of course, as it turned out, we took the wrong direction, but at least we got close enough to call our apartment host. She explained how to enter the car-free zone and met us in the old town to show us our place of lodging.
We dumped the luggage, and Kim and I drove back to the car park located on the edge of town. On the way back to the apartment, I stopped at a souvenir stand and purchased a Croatia cap so I could root for my new favorite soccer team.
The apartments were great. Our rooms overlooked the beautiful Rovinj harbor, and, as it turned out, the apartment was only about 100 yards from where we would catch the boat to Venice in a few days.
Rovinj is quite charming (and small). After getting freshened up, we all walked around town and got the lay of the land until we decided it was time to fill our stomachs again (that sandwich at the Lipica Stud Farm was thankfully a distant memory).
We ate at Lampo, a place that overlooked the harbor, and although we found out later is a Rick Steves’ choice, the food was fine (we like him for travel tips, not fine dining).
I had a beef soup with rice and an Istrian-style risotto (with beef and mushrooms). Tracy decided to go with a mixed salad and seafood risotto, Kim had a beefsteak with veggies and pommes frites, while Mary had the fish soup and grilled sea bass. By this time, Mary had eaten so much fish that she could actually breath underwater, and I swear her clothing covered a sophisticated set of fins.
After Kim and I had finished our dessert of chocolate crepes, the waiter came over with a surprise that nearly sent Kim and I into shock. Yes, the table was rewarded for its exemplary dining skills with a free round of slivovitz, and we all lived to tell about it (well, that’s because Kim and I took one for the team and drank our wives’ shots).
We then walked down to a little place called Zanibar (no, we did not run into Dorothy Lamour) and had (very expensive) drinks. Not content with our alcohol consumption for the evening, we hit another local haunt that had the Turkey/Czech Republic European Cup match on its outside television. Having just been to the Czech Republic, we cheered for them, but in a stunning comeback Turkey rallied to win, which might have been the most entertaining 20 minutes of soccer I had ever witnessed.
Both couples then retired to our respective apartments (no elevator, the stairs were a little steep, but the rooms were terrific). We called home and received some bad news. Our cat, Cupid, was not doing very well. We went to sleep, but it was a restless sleep to be sure.
<b> COMING UP - DAY TWENTY FOUR – TRACY GETS IN HOT WATER, SCARY STAIRS, ALLEY OOPS, TRUFFLE TIME, THE GLASS BOTTOM BOAT, WINE TIME AND A WAITER WITH ATTITUDE</b>
Sunshine! Blue skies! Finally! So this is what Lake Bled looks like on a beautiful day? It was stunning.
Up very early, we strolled about half way around the lake, taking new and improved sunshine pictures of the lake, the castle, the island and anything else we could find. I know Eddie Rabbitt loved a Rainy Day, but as beautiful as Lake Bled was the past couple of days in the dampness, being here on a perfectly sunny day is ten times better.
As we meandered on the lakeside path, a family of swans (well, they looked like a family because they were fighting) approached us, apparently looking for someone to give them a breakfast treat. Heeding the warning signs not to feed the swans anything but dandelion leaves, so, being the suckers we are, Tracy picked up a handful of leaves and threw them to the hungry little guys.
They gobbled it up faster than me scarfing down a kremna rezina. “This must be swan arugula,” she said.
Speaking of kremna rezina, it was almost 10 a.m. when we strolled up to the Hotel Park, the birthplace of my new favorite food on earth (ok, maybe it was tied with gnocchi). I was having cake withdrawal syndrome, and it wasn’t pretty.
It was already about 20 degrees warmer than it had been at anytime since we had arrived. We sat down at a table on the outside patio with a beautiful view of the lake and the morning’s rowing competition. Fortunately the waitress, sensing my kremna rezina withdrawal symptoms, immediately stopped by the table to take our order. If anyone is traveling to Bled in the near future, please Federal Express me some kremna rezina. Life has not been the same without it.
What a way to end our short stay in Bled! Beautiful weather, two double espressos and kremna rezina.
We wanted to stay, but there was a full day of sightseeing activities ahead of us, and this was no time to dawdle. We bade farewell to Luka and the terrific Hotel Berc to head toward our first stop of the day, Vintgar Gorge, which, Luka told us, was only a few minutes away. Well, it would have been only a few minutes had we followed the correct signs.
Once there, we walked to the little shack where you pay the 4€ admittance fee and within a few seconds we were in the midst of picturesque scenery. Although not hyped by many, the four of us thought Vintgar Gorge was one of the super highlights of our four weeks.
Similar to Plitvice, there was a boardwalk with handrails, and the path paralleled the river Radovna. Bridges crisscrossed this fast flowing river that also contains a number of waterfalls. The views were stunning, and this hike rivaled Plitvice for the number of photos taken. We walked all the way to a big waterfall. It took approximately one hour (due to the many photo opportunities along the way) from the entrance to the large waterfall. The return hike to the parking lot took about 25 minutes. For those of you who travel to Bled, I highly suggest a side trip to Vintgar Gorge.
Back in the car, we headed toward Ljubljana, where we got on the highway pointed toward our next destination on the way to Rovinj, Croatia. About an hour south of Ljubljana was the turnoff to Lipica, home of the Kobilarna Lipica (Lipica Stud Farm) and the famed Lipizzaner stallions.
This had been high on Tracy’s list because she grew up around horses, which is probably why I looked and smelled good to her when we first met. Tracy had performed at numerous horse shows in Northern California growing up, so she was very high on seeing these prancing phenoms.
The stud farm was located about ten minutes off the main highway, and we were on pace to be able to see the horses out in the field and catch the show at 3 p.m. We walked over to the paddock area where a bunch of the Lipizzaner mares were hanging out, and after about ten minutes of petting and picture taking, we trotted over to the concession stand to get a bite to eat.
Unless you haven’t eaten for a few days, I recommend skipping the food here. Abysmal would be a kind description. And, as for souvenirs, this place needs some marketing expertise to help them out.
The 3 o’clock show was about to begin, so we bought our tickets for 16€ each and entered the Lipizzaner Dome (not its real name) for the half hour extravaganza. Here is where reports of the show might differ among those of us who have attended this show.
For about ten of those minutes, a couple of carriages being pulled by these nags (excuse me, incredibly talented steeds) crisscrossed (slowly) around the Horsey Dome (not its real name). Charlton Heston in Ben Hur, it was not.
For another ten minutes, the Mr. Ed look-alikes performed dressage while riders whose personalities would make Brit Hume look jovial (actually, the horses bore an uncanny resemblance to the Fox pseudo journalist) pretended to be interested in the proceedings.
Then for another ten minutes, we had to look on excruciatingly as the horses leapt up to stand only on their hind legs. I had visions of Barbaro as these horses were forced to perform these feats of daring-do, which really after the first time was hard to look at.
Afterward, Mary (the nice one in our group) turned to Tracy and said sincerely, “That was very interesting.” I believe that is when Kim and I erupted in laughter (or perhaps we whinnied). Even Tracy had to snicker.
“No really,” Mary went on. “That was fun to see.”
Tracy did say that what we saw was not easy to do for either the riders or the horses, and Kim and I, in between bouts of uncontrollable laughter, agreed. Was it worth it? I’ll leave that up to others, but I say, "Neigh." I will admit, however, I liked it when the horses went into a kind of sideways stutter step that reminded me of myself dancing after drinking heavily.
Well, needless to say, we decided not to take the tour of the farm, so we hoofed it out of there and piled back in the car for the trip to Rovinj, which would take about another 90 minutes or so.
As we approached our destination, there were multiple signs to Rovinj. The problem was that the signs pointed in different directions. Of course, as it turned out, we took the wrong direction, but at least we got close enough to call our apartment host. She explained how to enter the car-free zone and met us in the old town to show us our place of lodging.
We dumped the luggage, and Kim and I drove back to the car park located on the edge of town. On the way back to the apartment, I stopped at a souvenir stand and purchased a Croatia cap so I could root for my new favorite soccer team.
The apartments were great. Our rooms overlooked the beautiful Rovinj harbor, and, as it turned out, the apartment was only about 100 yards from where we would catch the boat to Venice in a few days.
Rovinj is quite charming (and small). After getting freshened up, we all walked around town and got the lay of the land until we decided it was time to fill our stomachs again (that sandwich at the Lipica Stud Farm was thankfully a distant memory).
We ate at Lampo, a place that overlooked the harbor, and although we found out later is a Rick Steves’ choice, the food was fine (we like him for travel tips, not fine dining).
I had a beef soup with rice and an Istrian-style risotto (with beef and mushrooms). Tracy decided to go with a mixed salad and seafood risotto, Kim had a beefsteak with veggies and pommes frites, while Mary had the fish soup and grilled sea bass. By this time, Mary had eaten so much fish that she could actually breath underwater, and I swear her clothing covered a sophisticated set of fins.
After Kim and I had finished our dessert of chocolate crepes, the waiter came over with a surprise that nearly sent Kim and I into shock. Yes, the table was rewarded for its exemplary dining skills with a free round of slivovitz, and we all lived to tell about it (well, that’s because Kim and I took one for the team and drank our wives’ shots).
We then walked down to a little place called Zanibar (no, we did not run into Dorothy Lamour) and had (very expensive) drinks. Not content with our alcohol consumption for the evening, we hit another local haunt that had the Turkey/Czech Republic European Cup match on its outside television. Having just been to the Czech Republic, we cheered for them, but in a stunning comeback Turkey rallied to win, which might have been the most entertaining 20 minutes of soccer I had ever witnessed.
Both couples then retired to our respective apartments (no elevator, the stairs were a little steep, but the rooms were terrific). We called home and received some bad news. Our cat, Cupid, was not doing very well. We went to sleep, but it was a restless sleep to be sure.
<b> COMING UP - DAY TWENTY FOUR – TRACY GETS IN HOT WATER, SCARY STAIRS, ALLEY OOPS, TRUFFLE TIME, THE GLASS BOTTOM BOAT, WINE TIME AND A WAITER WITH ATTITUDE</b>
Oct 7th, 2008, 06:36 AM
#218
Join Date: Jan 2003
Posts: 2,726
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Tom,
We've been hoping to read of your adventures in Venice before we leave Thursday, but since it's beginning to look unlikely, we'll drink Singing Gondoliers in your honor!
As usual, your trip report is great.
Byrd
We've been hoping to read of your adventures in Venice before we leave Thursday, but since it's beginning to look unlikely, we'll drink Singing Gondoliers in your honor!
As usual, your trip report is great.
Byrd
Oct 7th, 2008, 08:47 AM
#219
Original Poster
"....we'll drink Singing Gondoliers in your honor!"
Byrd, have a great trip. Good memory! Yes, the Singing Gondoliers were part of our libation intake once we reached Venice on this trip, also. Enjoy!
Byrd, have a great trip. Good memory! Yes, the Singing Gondoliers were part of our libation intake once we reached Venice on this trip, also. Enjoy!
Oct 8th, 2008, 08:31 AM
#220
Join Date: Sep 2004
Posts: 868
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I'm glad we decided to skip the Lipizaner show. I read once that they do horrible things to the horses to make them do that stutter step, and I don't think it involves Slivovitz.
What was the name of your Rovinj apartment? We'll be there next June.
What was the name of your Rovinj apartment? We'll be there next June.
