G

I first hit this forum two days ago and am incredibly impressed at how helpful and informed the contributors are - far better than guide books! (Would someone explain to me what a "TROLL" is (in internet terms, at least)). <BR> <BR>I will be in Madrid on business in March. I love good food and hate "tourist" destinations - prefer to eat where the locals eat. Can you recommend some great restaurants in Madrid? What dishes (local specialities) should I try? <BR> <BR>Also, any recommendations regarding shopping? I am particularly interested in antiques (portable), old books, ladies fashion & shoes (local designers, good quality). <BR> <BR>Many thanks for your assistance

Maribel

I 'll be glad to see you my file of "favorite restaurants" and my favorite stores in Madrid (married to a Madrid native-it's my "adopted" home) if you'd like it. Just email me.

aphra

You'll find countless recommendations and every piece of non-touristy information you could possibly need at www.madridman.com--terrific site dedicated to Madrid. <BR> <BR>A troll is someone who posts an absurd or provocative question or comment just to see how many irate responses it will generate. In other words, the opposite of a traveler--someone who needs to get out more! <BR> <BR>Have a great time in Madrid, and definitely spend some time on madridman.com!

Ed

Not a city we know well at all. Two restaurants to recommend, though: <BR> <BR>Casa Botin (Properly, Casa Sobrino de Botin) ... specialty roast suckling pig. Somewhat heavily touristed, but it's full of natives as well. Excellent, enjoyable, good atmosphere. Reservations a must. <BR> <BR>Casa Paco ... specialty steaks. Steaks will be served quite rare on the old fashioned thick china plates, heated to well over 200 degrees. If you don't like your steak rare you cut off a piece and cook it momentarily on the plate to the degree of doneness you desire. Plate getting cool? Ask for another and it will brought instantly. <BR> <BR>I've been there a few times over 30 years and don't think it's terribly well-known by a lot of tourists, but could be wrong. Food is certainly good and it's certainly a different way to serve it. Argentine beef by the way, I believe. <BR> <BR>Ed

Will

Hi, G. I second the recommendation to visit madridman.com's bulliten board. <BR> <BR>Maribel, I know that you offered your recommendations for favorites to G, but would it be possible to share them w/ me also. I, too, am making my first trip to Mardid in a few weeks!

G

Thank you for your responses.

Marc David Miller

Try <BR> <BR>http://www.sesena.com/ing/index.htm <BR> <BR>for something unique (and perfect for the opera!)

celeste

Maribel, can you share with us your favorite stores in Madrid. I am especially looking for food (sherry, olive oil, rioja and vino de mar), cultured grey pearl, and ceramic plates and tiles (esp. combo white/blue/yellow). Thanks again.

Ger

Celeste: <BR> <BR>Thanks so much for topping this note. <BR> <BR>Maribel: I don't want to spend more than half a day shopping, there is so much more to do. But I am also interested in ceramics (tiles in particular), portable antiques, local fashion designers for men & women (apparently, Spanish designers are the HOTTEST), shoes, silk shawls (for my mother-in-law). Are there any flea markets we should visit? Are there any little treasures we should pick up? <BR> <BR>Also, I have posted another note re hotels - any inside information on the Gaudi, Suecia Crown Plaza, Gran Hotel Reina Victoria, ?. <BR>

Maribel

Hi Celeste, Ger et al, <BR>My favorite shopping haunts in Madrid: <BR> <BR>1) for ceramics: <BR> "Antigua Casa de Talavera" <BR>(Isabel la Católica #2-down from Hotel Santo Domingo, metro Santo Domingo) Run by rather dour brother/and more outgoing sister duo (she speaks some English) who've been in business for 40+ yrs. I make this my final stop every summer; jam packed with 3 rms of goods-walk carefully!-have to ring bell-closed for siesta-yes, high prices for the big items but very good quality, have a good selection of smaller souvenir pieces, and tiles, mostly Talavera and Puente de Arzobispo, some Granadino, and do they ever packed the items well! But no c.c.! Cash only. <BR> <BR>2) for dreaming about someday buying that gorgeous cape (Hillary did) that I'll have in my closet but never wear: "Capas Seseña" <BR>(Cruz 23, off Puerta del Sol). Also have exquisite hand embroidered silk shawls ("mantones de Manila") <BR> <BR>3) for fans: <BR> "Casa de Diego" (Puerta del Sol #12) <BR> <BR>4) for a Basque beret or Cordovan riding hat to wear at your next costume party, or for the man in your life: <BR>"Casa Yustas" (Plaza Mayor #30) <BR> <BR>5) for wines/sherries/brandies/vinegars/olive oils/saffron/paella rice/jams/honey and other gourmet food items: <BR>"El Club de Gourmets" or the basement "supermercado" of any branch of a El Corte Inglés (at Sol, for example) or pick up a few last minute items at the "Mallorca" shop at duty free in airport. My fav. olive oil is "Duque de Baena", olives-"La Española" (anchovy filled), honey-"Miel de Romero Valmiel" from Cuenca, vinegar-"Vinagre de Jerez Domecq", for paella rice-"La Bomba Calasparra", brandy-"Duque de Alba" or "Cardenal Mendoza", cognac-"Lepanto" <BR> <BR>The following are in the upscale Barrio de Salamanca district- <BR> <BR>1) for fine ceramics/scarves/art posters/costume jewelry/leather items: <BR> "Museos y Palacios" <BR>(Velásquez btwn Hermosilla and Ayala). It's kind of like the U.S. Museum stores-has all the china patterns (blue, yellow and white!) and decorative ceramic items from the "Reales Sitios", Royal Palaces and Monasteries throughout Spain. I've bought really lovely vases, pitchers, small plates, tiles, objets, even small leather pouches there. My mother has a house full of their ceramics! They also have a small branch in the duty free at Barajas airport and also across from the Cathedral in Toledo, and at all the "Reales Sitios".. <BR> <BR>2) for inexpensive, souvenir type ceramics: <BR>"Cerámica El Alfar" <BR>(Claudio Coello #112 across from Hotel Meliá Confort Los Galgos) <BR> <BR>3) for small embroidered lace items (pillow shams, placemats, table covers): "Casa Bonet" <BR>(Núñez de Balboa #76 at Juan Bravo, metro N. de Balboa). It's Mallorcan lace (also a branch in Palma), and they're purveyors to the Royal Family. I do have one of their tablecloths which I use maybe once a yr. <BR>

Maribel

4) for a huge selection of wine/cava and very fair prices (the largest wine store in Europe!): <BR>"La Vinia" <BR>(Ortega & Gassett #16, btwn Serrano and Claudio Coello). Every month they have a special promotion on wines of a specific region. Ribera del Duero, Rioja, Priorat, Navarra-you name it! <BR> <BR>5) olive oils and more wines/sherries/brandies: <BR>"Mantequerías Bravo" (Ayala #24, btwn Claudio Coelo and Lagasca) <BR>They have '94 Riojas here (the best yr. in 25 yrs.) that I can't find elsewhere. <BR> <BR>6) for shoes: the "Yanko" (Lagasca #53) or any "Acosta" (Hermosilla above Serrano); also "Pequeños Suizos" (Serrano #68 or C. Coello #63) or "Salvador Bachiller" , also "Camper" <BR> <BR>8) for dreamy window shopping and gazing at that beautiful "Hermes" type scarf I'd love to buy (well, cheaper than Hermes at around 24,000 pts.) <BR>"Loewe" <BR>(stores on Serrano, Gran Via, Palace hotel and branches all over Spain) Softest, buttery leather purses in the whole world-totally impractical. <BR>Gucci even purchases from them. Family sold business to L. Vuitton. <BR>I do love their 3 perfumes, "Gala Día", "Gala Noche" and "L", which you can't purchase stateside. <BR> <BR>8) The dark brown "Magno/La Toja", or "Heno de Pravia" or "Maja" soaps, and 2 more perfumes, "Duende" by designer Jesús del Pozo, and "Carmen" by Seville's Victorio & Lucchino (can't purchase in U.S.)-found at any El Corte Inglés or the Alvarez Gómez perfumería on Serrano or any discount Collado perfumería all over. <BR> <BR>9) for Majolica pearls (white, cream, grey, black): <BR>I always purchase for friends at any branch of El Corte Inglés. They’ll stand behind their merchandise ("not satisfied, we'll refund your money'"). They have multilingual salespeople, and the procedure for your VAT refund is a snap. <BR>Most people go to the branch at Sol, but I prefer the one up the northern Castellana at Raimundo Fernández Villaverde, an entire city in itself-kind of a KMart, Sear’s, Macy's, Bloomies all wrapped up in one. <BR>The small, classier boutique El Corte Inglés on Serrano behind the Hotel Villamagna has a VAT refund desk downstairs that's never crowded. Just save your receipts, and when you hit a total of 14,000, go to the "Atención al cliente" desk. <BR> <BR>10) for those with a clothing budget more generous than my own, the top designers are Adolfo Domínguez (the Armani of Spain), Roberto Verino (Armani jr.), Purificación García, Victorio & Lucchino (Seville) all with boutiques on Serrano (or even in the El C.I.) or the ultra high end designer infested Ortega & Gasset street. Also a branch there of Tod’s with shoe prices lower than U.S. <BR>Agatha Ruiz de Prada is very, very out there-you'll find her extravagant designs on Calle Almirante, off Paseo de Recoletos. <BR> <BR>11) for a snack break after all that shopping, the branch of the chic gourmet delicatessen "Mallorca" on Serrano near the Puerta de Alcalá or the one on Velázquez #59 at corner of Ayala (?) or the small one at Ortega & Gasset makes for interesting people watching. It’s sort of the Madrid equivalent of Pecks gourmet emporium of Milan. <BR> <BR>About flea markets-I'm not a fan of the Sunday morning, watch-your-wallet "El Rastro", but there are some good antique stores in that area. Just don't go on a Sun. <BR> <BR>There, enough for now! <BR>Happy shopping! <BR>

celeste

Maribel, you are unbelievable! Thank you so much for the shopping info, now I am thinking of adding another day in Madrid because of the shopping. The Heno de Pravia and Maja soaps you mentioned brought back the memory of my grandma and mom. I used to love the smell from them way back when I was very young and forgot about them and now can't wait to buy them also. Would you know if there are markets in Madrid like the Campo de Fiori (Rome) or Arles (France). It's like a local market where you can buy everything i.e., herbs, flowers, soaps, accessories, cheese, olives, fabric, etc. etc.? I know this is a Madrid posting but where else can I go for unusual,only-available-here souvenir? I will be traveling also to Andalucia and the coast. Can't wait for your next posting.

Maribel

Hi Celeste, <BR>Two corrections on my long "shopping posts": 1) the ceramic store on Velazquez is called "Palacios y Museos" (not the other way around) and 2) I meant "Majorica" brand pearls (dumb! It was late...) <BR> <BR>I wish I could point you to interesting <BR>outdoor street markets for food/flowers in Madrid like the Campo de Fiori in Rome or the Rue Cler in Paris or those great markets in Provence, but the market I use is indoors and not quite the same, called the "Mercado La Paz" entrances on Lagasca and another on Ayala in the Salamanca district, near the NH Lagasca Hotel. I'ts the most upscale of the indoor markets with good selections of cheeses and breads-that's where the denizens of this fashionable neighborhood shop. There's also an interesting old, old time market near the Puerta del Sol, off Calle Mayor at the Plaza de San Miguel (mornings only, I think). <BR>In Andalucia, for rustic pottery I've picked up items at the Fabrica de Santa Ana in the Triana district of Sevilla, across the Gualdalquivir, there are also 2 ceramic shops on pedestrian Calle Sierpes downtown, and last June we purchased some really, really inexpensive but nice souvenir plates (in "naif" patterns-the kind you'd see in a Pottery Barn) up in the white town of Frigiliana, due west of Nerja. It's an artists' colony. <BR>I'll post more ideas on Andalucia shopping later from home. Should we start a separte thread?

celeste

Yessssss! I will start one, please check Andalucia & the Coast: Shopping and Dining. Thanks again.