MADRID AND GRANADA--A Magical Winter Week in Spain
Jan 19th, 2011, 02:11 PM
#22
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you know, those bags from El Corte Ingles are exactly the same as I remember them from 30 years ago! and, oh! I didn't know there was Spanish paprika!! I'm going to have to get some too, thanks for the tip!! absolutely love the basement grocery store in El Corte Ingles. and oh yea, gotta get some saffron too. I make a really good paella 
Jan 19th, 2011, 03:13 PM
#23
Oh ekscrunchy - I want to pack my bags for a return to Madrid & Granada immediately! Thanks for your great post.
A friend and I had afternoon tea at the Ritz last year; what a glorious hotel! It was quite funny - we'd been to the Prado and when we came out were looking for a coffee. My Venezuelan friend asked (in Spanish) one of the guards to recommend a good local coffee bar and he started directing us to a nearby Starbucks! We looked at one another, barely containing our hoots of laughter and thanked him very much, saying that wasn't QUITE what we had in mind.
Turning around, there was The Ritz - so off we went and had a wonderful high tea in the gardens. It was the first day of my first trip to Madrid and "Tea for Two at the Ritz" was a wonderful start to my week there.
Looking forward to the rest of your week's ramble.
A friend and I had afternoon tea at the Ritz last year; what a glorious hotel! It was quite funny - we'd been to the Prado and when we came out were looking for a coffee. My Venezuelan friend asked (in Spanish) one of the guards to recommend a good local coffee bar and he started directing us to a nearby Starbucks! We looked at one another, barely containing our hoots of laughter and thanked him very much, saying that wasn't QUITE what we had in mind.
Turning around, there was The Ritz - so off we went and had a wonderful high tea in the gardens. It was the first day of my first trip to Madrid and "Tea for Two at the Ritz" was a wonderful start to my week there.
Looking forward to the rest of your week's ramble.
Jan 20th, 2011, 03:36 AM
#24
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It was great luck that we stumbled onto the ambassador's procession! We could hardly believe our eyes when we saw the first rider enter the Plaza Mayor!
Marija: The first day (day of arrival; Sunday) we indeed skipped dinner! But remember that we had had that big lunch at Casa Rafa and did not leave there until close to 5pm. The fairly recent development (probably in the class of "Too Much Information") is that the travel partner has slimmed down quite a bit in the past year or two (as has yours truly) and has become, as a result of wanting to preserve his new svelte figure, a "two meals a day" person. Not only that, but I have yet to convert this person to the ecstasy of shellfish (known as "things with shells"), so he is able to walk past those shimmering piles of joy heaped on ice in the windows without even a glance of longing. "I will go to the restaurant with you but I am not ordering anything" is a recurrent phrase. So the result of all this is that I am now on the "European plan" or "half-board" when we travel together. More than a bit annoying, as you can imagine, but there it is..... But I did manage to sneak in a bocadillo de calamares (the joy of this will be revealed soon) and other lunchtime snacks (see "tortas de aceite, above) , so......
Speaking of snacks, sweet ones, here is another new discovery: Miguelanez Violet Candies, Inexpensive and delicious. If you are also a fan of violet-flavored candies, this adorable shop near Sol offers lots of artisanal treasures and the quality is probably much better than the Miguelanez brand:
http://www.lavioleta.es/index.html
There is just so much fabulous food shopping in Madrid! I could have spent the entire four days doing nothing else!
Tobyo: You have to try the pimenton, the smoked paprika from La Vera. It comes in three categories; I could not find the "agridulce" variety at El Corte Ingles, though. Here is more information:
http://www.tienda.com/food/products/pk-03-2.html?site=1
Also, we visited the La Vera Valley very briefly a few years ago; here is the report on what turned out to be an unforgettable trip (see posts around June 4th):
http://www.fodors.com/community/euro...nd-segovia.cfm
Marija: The first day (day of arrival; Sunday) we indeed skipped dinner! But remember that we had had that big lunch at Casa Rafa and did not leave there until close to 5pm. The fairly recent development (probably in the class of "Too Much Information") is that the travel partner has slimmed down quite a bit in the past year or two (as has yours truly) and has become, as a result of wanting to preserve his new svelte figure, a "two meals a day" person. Not only that, but I have yet to convert this person to the ecstasy of shellfish (known as "things with shells"), so he is able to walk past those shimmering piles of joy heaped on ice in the windows without even a glance of longing. "I will go to the restaurant with you but I am not ordering anything" is a recurrent phrase. So the result of all this is that I am now on the "European plan" or "half-board" when we travel together. More than a bit annoying, as you can imagine, but there it is..... But I did manage to sneak in a bocadillo de calamares (the joy of this will be revealed soon) and other lunchtime snacks (see "tortas de aceite, above) , so......
Speaking of snacks, sweet ones, here is another new discovery: Miguelanez Violet Candies, Inexpensive and delicious. If you are also a fan of violet-flavored candies, this adorable shop near Sol offers lots of artisanal treasures and the quality is probably much better than the Miguelanez brand:
http://www.lavioleta.es/index.html
There is just so much fabulous food shopping in Madrid! I could have spent the entire four days doing nothing else!
Tobyo: You have to try the pimenton, the smoked paprika from La Vera. It comes in three categories; I could not find the "agridulce" variety at El Corte Ingles, though. Here is more information:
http://www.tienda.com/food/products/pk-03-2.html?site=1
Also, we visited the La Vera Valley very briefly a few years ago; here is the report on what turned out to be an unforgettable trip (see posts around June 4th):
http://www.fodors.com/community/euro...nd-segovia.cfm
Jan 20th, 2011, 10:34 AM
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Ahhh! Now I know what we will bring home from Spain---Pimenton!! Madrid will be our last stop so I'll buy the tins there. I think we'll be closer to Mercado de San Miguel; wil they have it there or would be better advised to head up to El Corte Ingles?
Jan 20th, 2011, 10:59 AM
#27
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They should have pimenton at Mercado de San Miguel. If not, you should be able to find it in most food shops. And keep in mind that there are many other covered markets in Madrid--it seems that every neighborhood has one. Same is true in Granada. On the last day I discovered that there was a market just around the corner from our (Granada) hotel on the Gran Via.
Did you know that there is a Corte Ingles in Granada with another large basement supermarket? It is a about a 10-minute walk from the Cathedral on Acera del Darro. We happened to be there just when the January sales had begun so shops in both cities were jammed.
Did you know that there is a Corte Ingles in Granada with another large basement supermarket? It is a about a 10-minute walk from the Cathedral on Acera del Darro. We happened to be there just when the January sales had begun so shops in both cities were jammed.
Jan 20th, 2011, 12:48 PM
#29
great report, Ek. we spent 3 days in Madrid a few years ago and loved the Retiro park - have they still got the cloud-trimmed hedges?
we found a very nice restaurant to the west [i think] of the Prado just before you get to the park. we were able to eat lunch outside even though it was February.
I really liked Madrid - mroe than Barcelona i think.
we found a very nice restaurant to the west [i think] of the Prado just before you get to the park. we were able to eat lunch outside even though it was February.
I really liked Madrid - mroe than Barcelona i think.
Jan 20th, 2011, 02:44 PM
#30
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I am glad you are all enjoying..I really fell for Madrid this time and I guess the report reflects this.
Ann: What are cloud-trimmed hedges???(!) The Park is so gorgeous, even in winter that I can't imagine how it must be when more plants are in bloom. Near the NW corner of the reservoir in the Park there are a couple of gorgeous trees sculpted in metal with an intentionally rusted finish. They actually move with the breeze, and are themselves moved at night to a spot just beside the Puerta del Alcala entrance. I wish I had more information about them..
I know there are many more delights inside the gates that I would like to explore sometime...
Ann: What are cloud-trimmed hedges???(!) The Park is so gorgeous, even in winter that I can't imagine how it must be when more plants are in bloom. Near the NW corner of the reservoir in the Park there are a couple of gorgeous trees sculpted in metal with an intentionally rusted finish. They actually move with the breeze, and are themselves moved at night to a spot just beside the Puerta del Alcala entrance. I wish I had more information about them..
I know there are many more delights inside the gates that I would like to explore sometime...
Jan 20th, 2011, 03:24 PM
#31
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I'm enjoying this very much, this is about as close as I'll ever get to the Ritz,I'm sure!
Just to add a bit more info on the pimenton, the NYT had a very glowing article last year, right before I headed to Spain, so I brought back a lot of it and gifted it around to all my friends. http://www.nytimes.com/2010/04/14/di...weringredients
One little thing to pay attention to is the way in which the can is opened -- most have little plastic things that flip up and down, and as I learned the hard way, some brands have sturdier flaps than others. I arrived home with a fair amount of pimenton sprinkled over my clothing.
I'm with you, ekscrunchy, Madrid is one of Europe's loveliest and most fun cities. Looking forward to more installments!
Just to add a bit more info on the pimenton, the NYT had a very glowing article last year, right before I headed to Spain, so I brought back a lot of it and gifted it around to all my friends. http://www.nytimes.com/2010/04/14/di...weringredients
One little thing to pay attention to is the way in which the can is opened -- most have little plastic things that flip up and down, and as I learned the hard way, some brands have sturdier flaps than others. I arrived home with a fair amount of pimenton sprinkled over my clothing.
I'm with you, ekscrunchy, Madrid is one of Europe's loveliest and most fun cities. Looking forward to more installments!
Jan 20th, 2011, 05:42 PM
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excellent! I'll definitely be getting some of that pimenton. thanks for the cool link too. I've saved it for future reference. and, looking forward to the rest of your report too. Madrid is very endearing isn't it?
Jan 20th, 2011, 10:15 PM
#34
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The current Mercado de San Miguel is not a real market but a deli room. The largest market in Madrid, with real local atmosphere, is the Mercado de Maravillas, next to Metro Cuatro Caminos.
http://www.fodors.com/community/euro...maravillas.cfm
http://www.fodors.com/community/euro...maravillas.cfm
Jan 21st, 2011, 02:50 AM
#35
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I certainly understand the comment about San Miguel market being a deli room. It is not where you would expect to find "regular" people doing their daily shopping.
I've never seen the pimenton cans with those openings..mine have only the metal circle set into the metal top of the can, and you just pry open the circle. Like the cans of McCann's Irish oatmeal. But that is a good heads up--I bet that color does not easily come out in the wash!
I will be back soon with more..sorry this is taking so long...
I've never seen the pimenton cans with those openings..mine have only the metal circle set into the metal top of the can, and you just pry open the circle. Like the cans of McCann's Irish oatmeal. But that is a good heads up--I bet that color does not easily come out in the wash!
I will be back soon with more..sorry this is taking so long...
Jan 21st, 2011, 03:17 AM
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For our dinner on our first full day in Madrid, we had chosen another restaurant in the Retiro district east of the park. ARZABAL, a contemporary "neo-tasca" had received very good online reports and was highly recommended by Maribel in her wonderfully comprehensive 2010 Madrid dining guide. (I tried to select a mix of dining venues ranging from traditional to modern)
There are actually two Arzabals—the original, tiny restaurant/bar at #2, Dr. Castello, and the newer, slightly larger and slightly glossier place about two doors to the west on the corner facing Retiro Park. This was explained to us by one of the congenial owners, Ivan, who escorted us to the original address at which our booking had been made. No problem; the kitchen is the same and we actually preferred the more cozy dining space of the smaller and older location.
The welcome at Arzabal might have been the warmest of all the warm welcomes we received that week. The lovely young woman who waited on us not only guided us through the list of menu items (written on the blackboard and also on the written menu), but offered all kinds of tips and advice about Madrid, including where to sample one of the city’s beloved snacks, bocadillo de camarones! The miniscule contemporary room features a tiny bar in front, which became quite crowded as the night wore on, and no more than about 5 tables behind.
Although I understand Spanish and received the most gracious help, I fear that I did not put together a very sensible dinner. Quite a few of the items included shellfish or other items that feature on the taboo list of my travel partner. While I did my best to avoid these, I may have overdone it with the starch component. One really has to pay attention when compiling a meal at these “small plates” venues!
This is what we ate at Arzabal, accompanied by a crisp Soto Verde Rueda blended white wine.
Incredibly good bread, accompanied by a tall white bucket of good butter.
Alcahofas Fritas (13 euro). Baby artichokes cut paper-thin, fried to
crispy perfection and mounded high on the plate. Memorable!
Croquetas de hongos y de jamon Iberico. (6.50 ½ racion) Mixed order of croquettes, which were fast becoming the travel partner’s favorite find of the trip. Perfect crsipy and creamy renditions of this iconic Spanish dish.
Sarten de Huevos Truffados ( 10 euro 1/2 racion). This was a tangle of lightly sautéed lozenges of potato (I thought they were a tad undercooked) with a bit of fried egg and a generous amount of black truffle. It was tasty, but I would not order it again at dinnertime.
Salteado de arroz con hongos (12 euro 1/2 racion). I thought this was a tad pricey for half an order of a good enough “dry” rice and mushroom medley. Already we can see the starch piling up at the table, due to my mash-up with ordering.
Pochas con hongos (9 euro 1/2 racion) . This was the “cuchara del dia,” or "spoon of the day." Good quality small, white beans tossed with mushrooms. Very tasty.
Salmonetes (15 euro 1/2 racion). Delicious Mediterranean red mullet (small red-skinned fish with white flesh) sautéed and served with tomato cubes in escabeche, which might have been the best tomato dish of the year—impossibly tiny cubes of tomato in a sweet and sour vinaigrette. Outstanding. I need to figure out how to make this. In a situation like this, with so many other dishes, a half-order was a good size for both of us. I liked having the opportunity to order smaller servings of many dishes.
Together with the wine and water, and a 2 euro per person cover charge, the bill totalled 70 euro for two of us. Closed Sundays.
After dinner, we crossed the street to the park entrance and enjoyed a delightful nighttime stroll back to the hotel. (We were assured by the concierge that the Park was safe to walk, even at night, and even at the late hour, it was filled with strollers and runners).
There are actually two Arzabals—the original, tiny restaurant/bar at #2, Dr. Castello, and the newer, slightly larger and slightly glossier place about two doors to the west on the corner facing Retiro Park. This was explained to us by one of the congenial owners, Ivan, who escorted us to the original address at which our booking had been made. No problem; the kitchen is the same and we actually preferred the more cozy dining space of the smaller and older location.
The welcome at Arzabal might have been the warmest of all the warm welcomes we received that week. The lovely young woman who waited on us not only guided us through the list of menu items (written on the blackboard and also on the written menu), but offered all kinds of tips and advice about Madrid, including where to sample one of the city’s beloved snacks, bocadillo de camarones! The miniscule contemporary room features a tiny bar in front, which became quite crowded as the night wore on, and no more than about 5 tables behind.
Although I understand Spanish and received the most gracious help, I fear that I did not put together a very sensible dinner. Quite a few of the items included shellfish or other items that feature on the taboo list of my travel partner. While I did my best to avoid these, I may have overdone it with the starch component. One really has to pay attention when compiling a meal at these “small plates” venues!
This is what we ate at Arzabal, accompanied by a crisp Soto Verde Rueda blended white wine.
Incredibly good bread, accompanied by a tall white bucket of good butter.
Alcahofas Fritas (13 euro). Baby artichokes cut paper-thin, fried to
crispy perfection and mounded high on the plate. Memorable!
Croquetas de hongos y de jamon Iberico. (6.50 ½ racion) Mixed order of croquettes, which were fast becoming the travel partner’s favorite find of the trip. Perfect crsipy and creamy renditions of this iconic Spanish dish.
Sarten de Huevos Truffados ( 10 euro 1/2 racion). This was a tangle of lightly sautéed lozenges of potato (I thought they were a tad undercooked) with a bit of fried egg and a generous amount of black truffle. It was tasty, but I would not order it again at dinnertime.
Salteado de arroz con hongos (12 euro 1/2 racion). I thought this was a tad pricey for half an order of a good enough “dry” rice and mushroom medley. Already we can see the starch piling up at the table, due to my mash-up with ordering.
Pochas con hongos (9 euro 1/2 racion) . This was the “cuchara del dia,” or "spoon of the day." Good quality small, white beans tossed with mushrooms. Very tasty.
Salmonetes (15 euro 1/2 racion). Delicious Mediterranean red mullet (small red-skinned fish with white flesh) sautéed and served with tomato cubes in escabeche, which might have been the best tomato dish of the year—impossibly tiny cubes of tomato in a sweet and sour vinaigrette. Outstanding. I need to figure out how to make this. In a situation like this, with so many other dishes, a half-order was a good size for both of us. I liked having the opportunity to order smaller servings of many dishes.
Together with the wine and water, and a 2 euro per person cover charge, the bill totalled 70 euro for two of us. Closed Sundays.
After dinner, we crossed the street to the park entrance and enjoyed a delightful nighttime stroll back to the hotel. (We were assured by the concierge that the Park was safe to walk, even at night, and even at the late hour, it was filled with strollers and runners).
Jan 21st, 2011, 03:50 AM
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Jan 21st, 2011, 08:41 AM
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Hi ek,
if you scroll down these pics of the retiro, you'll find a couple of examples of cloud pruning:
http://www.google.co.uk/images?rlz=1...w=1004&bih=462
they don't stand out terribly well, but you probably get the general idea.
we also went to the botanical garden which is the other side of the prado. although it was February it was quite interesting and the greenhouses were nice!
if you scroll down these pics of the retiro, you'll find a couple of examples of cloud pruning:
http://www.google.co.uk/images?rlz=1...w=1004&bih=462
they don't stand out terribly well, but you probably get the general idea.
we also went to the botanical garden which is the other side of the prado. although it was February it was quite interesting and the greenhouses were nice!
Jan 21st, 2011, 11:42 AM
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Thanks, Ann! I would have loved to see those pruned hedges! They may have been there, even in January, but most of our walking in the park was after dark and we were concerned more with finding the route to the eastern side than actual sightseeing. We really should have devoted more time just to exploring the wonders of the Park. Although we had four days (including the day of arrival which was pretty much a washout except for lunch and a short visit to the Prado) I feel that that amount of time was really the barest minimum and allowed us only to get a feel for the city in general, not to delve in any depth. I think that for some reason, Madrid does not receive its due respect as far as tourism goes. Barcelona seems to be much more popular these days, although Madrid has many more "sights" as far as I'm concerned.
To touch on another issue that arises here once in a while: I never felt the remotest bit unsafe while in the city. It is true that we stuck to the center and, since we were able to walk everywhere, we did not take the Metro, but even then, the only vaguely shady people we noticed were the ladies of the night that seem to congregate on Calle Montero south of the Gran Via.
Did you know that the only known statue depicting the devil is inside the park, at the Fountain of the Fallen Angel? (second photo in link below)
http://www.portalviajar.com/europa/e...del-retiro.php
I made an error above by referring to the reservoir, when I should have called this body of water an estanque, or artificial lake.
To touch on another issue that arises here once in a while: I never felt the remotest bit unsafe while in the city. It is true that we stuck to the center and, since we were able to walk everywhere, we did not take the Metro, but even then, the only vaguely shady people we noticed were the ladies of the night that seem to congregate on Calle Montero south of the Gran Via.
Did you know that the only known statue depicting the devil is inside the park, at the Fountain of the Fallen Angel? (second photo in link below)
http://www.portalviajar.com/europa/e...del-retiro.php
I made an error above by referring to the reservoir, when I should have called this body of water an estanque, or artificial lake.
