m_kingdom2: Antwerp

Old Sep 6th, 2004, 04:51 AM
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m_kingdom2: Antwerp

A little late in coming, but here?s my Antwerp:

Coming from London I took the Eurostar. First class offered a very average meal which is no better than those I?ve experiences in aircraft. People fancied themselves, and it all felt so smalltime - I still feel flying is easier and far more elegant.

I had no exceptional, or even above average meals in Antwerp, so I will not be making any restaurant recommendations.

HOTEL - Antwerp seemed to be lacking in any luxury properties with a central location. There are boutique hotels, but they are very small (under twenty rooms) and booked well in advance. I decided to settle on The Hilton. No doorman to assist with my luggage, so I dragged it into the hotel myself. The lobby was unremarkable, very anonymous, lack lustre, very Hilton. I?d booked a room on the Executive level which allowed access to the club lounge. The bedroom was large, with comfortable beds, a television with a separate CD player comprised the entertainment centre, and a well lit double wardrobe housed a safety deposit box. The bathroom was large, with cheap marble tiles, small shower cubicle, bath, and vanity basin - no twin vanities! Usual Hilton toiletries, with the addition of a small tealight complete with holder, and matches, how romantic. View was of an external atrium, the net curtains were permanently drawn. The best feature of the club lounge was the large terrace, the interior was dated - despite the large plasma screen . A small breakfast buffet, followed by cakes/biscuits, then an open bar accompanied with chicken nuggets and cheese puffs (haute cuisine at its finest). The open bar even included a cheap champagne, a large selection of spirits was most acceptable, but not when it was all locked away after 10pm - it should remain there until at least 2am. Furthermore, I noticed people from other floors using this lounge - the doors should be permanently closed. Don?t waste money on upgrading to the executive floor - it quite simply isn?t worth it!


ATTRACTIONS- The diamond quarter, and the diamond museum are worth exploring, the museum in particular offers one to view some relatively impressive stones, as well as learning about the process involved in grading/selecting/cutting the stones. However, the window of Graff in Sloane or Bond Street affords a far more spectacular display than any place in Antwerp! Rubens? House is charming, and has a fabulous small garden in the heart of the city, however, none of the original furniture survives, just pieces from the period.

SHOPS!!! - I am now under the impression that Antwerp has superior shopping to London. I won?t waste your time talking about Gucci, Louis Vuitton, Cartier, Celine, etcetera, as no doubt we are all familiar with them.

I?d like to recommend Louis (nothing to do with Vuitton) which stocks Balenciaga, Raf Simons, Martin Margiela, Bernhard Willhelm, and other contemporary designers - stocks collections for both men and women.

One of the most exceptional stores I?ve ever visited is Verso. A cavernous space, stylishly decorated (there is even a café for some inter-shopping refreshment) crammed full of collections (both mens and womens) from Jil Sander, Prada, John Galliano, Alexander McQueen, Dirk Bikembergs, Dolce e Gabbana, Haute, Versace, MiuMiu, Helmut Lang, Comme des Garcons, Dior, Yves Saint Laurent Rive Gauche, Gucci, and more! The pieces are very well chosen, and all very wearable, this place makes Harrods, Harvey Nichols, and Selfridges look like complete and utter dumps! Prices are comparable to those in London, give or take a few EUR they are virtually the same. Apologies for not being able to provide exact addresses for the above, but you will find them walking around the upmarket shopping area - Verso is opposite the Mini showroom. I believe Louis is located in a street with a name like ?Lombardvest?.

Another fantastic store is Dries van Noten - an old building which has been sympathetically restored with a parquet floor, and changing room doors from the period (turn of the century). Menswear is located upstairs, and a selection of G.F. Trumper (of Curzon St. W1) products are also available. The entire collections are available here, I found many pieces that weren?t available in London boutiques such as Browns. Staff are helpful, but not intrusive - they allow you to try items on freely, and don?t crowd you. The charming French manageress kindly made suggestions for accessories and other items to complement those that I?d already chosen. (this subtle service was noticed in all of the Antwerp shops - I suspect it?s a local thing) The attention to detail that exists in his clothes is evident in every aspect of this store, even the receipts are all hand-written. Whilst I was there, a Japanese couple spent 12000EUR on Dries van Noten?s currently offerings, I spared a thought for the poor assistant who now had a veritable essay to write out for the receipt! Even the shopping bags are quiet, white with black ribbon handles, and Dries van Noten written in the tiniest of letters. Located on Nationalestraat.

Ann Demeulemeester is another local designer offering both mens and womens collections. Her store is located opposite the main Rubens museum on Volkstraat (or possibly Nationalestraat - the two flow into each other). Her store - reflecting the ethos of her collections - is very minimalist. The space is entered through a floor to ceiling wooden door, the floor is a drier more antiqued and worn parquet. Clothes hang on continuous rails which span the entire length of the store. An open staircase climbs the far wall of this voluminous space taking one to the upper level which houses more offering from menswear and womenswear. Once again, one is left alone to browse, such a pleasure not having items forced upon you against your will. Staff know her collections well and are pleased to assist in selecting signature pieces from her current offerings. An interesting design feature is the almost tropical ?parrot/jungle? glassed cage at the far end which is lit with harsh sodium lights, it contrasts sharply with the regimented black and white of the store and clothes.

On Nationalstraat you?ll also find a couple of other stores that stock collections from Etro, Paul Smith, Marni, Vivienne Westwood, and Neil Barrett (among others) for both men and women. On a wide street called Meir, high street shops exist, again providing full ranges from their ?collections?.



All in all, I enjoyed Antwerp?s almost Dutch atmosphere, very different from the French ambience that envelopes Brussels. The restaurants were unremarkable, and just a little cheaper than their London counterparts. It?s a small city, so it?s very easy to walk from one side to the other - I even walked all along the dockside on the Sunday, lots of locals, and very pleasant indeed. It?s much easier to recommend Antwerp to Europeans than Americans - simply for geographical reasons. It?d be hard to spend more than a few nights there. For the American tourist I?d imagine they?d want to couple it with Brussels, Amsterdam, Paris, London, or some other French places! One must try the waffles sold of virtually every street, absolutely delicious! Antwerp comes highly recommended.
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Old Sep 6th, 2004, 05:41 AM
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How brave of you to ENDURE that dreadful old Hilton Hotel. Your personal support staff should be severly lashed for booking you into such a dump! How many steamer trunks did you take on this trip?
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Old Sep 6th, 2004, 05:48 AM
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But one survived....

Carrying hundreds of shopping bags on long walks is preferable and far more productive than going to any gym.

P.S. What is the building (currently undergoing contrstruction) - which has sail shaped features - at the bottom of Volkstraat?
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Old Sep 6th, 2004, 05:52 AM
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This post reminds me of the parable of the blind men and the elephant: one reports what one "sees" and two persons may have entirely different "views" of the same object.

In our case, we found Antwerp's museums and parks and old quarter to be totally captivating -- we avoided stores because (a) we had little money and (b) we felt time was better invested elsewhere. Our hotel, near the central railway station, was inexpensive, the breakfast was stupendous, and the staff turned cartwheels helping two elderly Americans find their way around this busy city.

The museum of art, we found, was an absolute stunner -- simply magnificent, complete with a very useful taped description you carried with you and controlled with your fingertips.

The walk in the old quarter was like a living history book, guided by a retired diamond cutter and organized by the local chamber of commerce.

The interior of the central cathedral contained some of the finest art anywhere in northern Europe, and we have seen a lot.

The little restaurants -- the Mom and Pop type -- were splendid, and the dozens and dozens of different locally-brewed beers outdid our abilities to try them all.

We found the subway and streetcar lines very well organized and the attendants very helpful -- we get lost easily! Because of good weather, we particularly enjoyed the cruise around the busy harbor.

The area around the central railway station can be a little dodgy after dark, but otherwise we ran into no problems of security. Just find yourself a seat in an outdoor cafe and enjoy a great hour of "people-watching." We thought Antwerp was the most highly under-rated city for visiting we found between Paris and Stockholm. Next time, we will spend more time there and do more exploring in Hamburg and Lubeck. Antwerp deserves more tourist trade.
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Old Sep 6th, 2004, 05:59 AM
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I couldn't agree that Antwerp is highly underrated as a tourist destination, however, I think too many tourists would spoil its relatively natural (i.e. non touristy) atmosphere. The collections, however, are the results of the experiences of designers who live in Antwerp ("Antwerp six&quot, their take on life as a result of developing in the city. Their pieces represent this just as well as any art gallery. Most notably Raf Simons (not one of the original Antwerp six) who is so inspired by this city.

Those "useful taped description you carried with you and controlled with your fingertips" devices have tormented me world over this summer. I prefer to read a description. The voice overs are full of "fluff" and are padded out and too trivial, they drive me mad. Also they are an hazard, and can drop on to the floor far too easily.
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Old Sep 6th, 2004, 06:19 AM
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The building with the sails is the Palace of Justice, being built at huge expensive. Designed by Richard Rogers Partnership.
Good description of the shopping! Couldn't have done better myself. Louis is indeed on the Lombardenvest. Verso is on the Lange Gasthuisstraat. Another good shop is SN3, on the Frankrijklei, selling Chanel, Prada, Gucci etc.

Did you happen to visit the Fashion Museum too? Very interesting, though their Goddess exhibition has just closed.

You should have stayed at hotel De Witte Lelie; beautiful house, converted in a hotel. Close to Antwerp's most beautiful square, Conscience Plein. The owner would have steered you to some good restaurants!

Ann Demeulemeester is opposite the Museum voor Schone Kunsten (fine arts museum).

As for the diamonds; there was a beautiful art-deco jewellery exhibition last year, but unfortunately some of the top pieces were stolen, so I don't think anyone will lend anything to that museum anymore.
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Old Sep 6th, 2004, 06:21 AM
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That should read 'at great expense'
Architects here are complaining that Richard Rogers is being paid too much, and the project has greatly exceeded its budget, and is nowhere near finished.
Must say it looks interesting though.
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Old Sep 6th, 2004, 06:37 AM
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To each his own, and of course it depends upon your starting and ending points, but I can't imagine how anyone feels flying (particularly London to Brussels or London to Paris) is "easier" or "far more elegant" unless you are flying some sort of first or deluxe class.
For me, Waterloo is only 10 minutes from my London flat, and a short taxi ride will take be to my Paris flat. I don't have to allow an hour or more between airport and flat at each end, nor to I have to arrive at the train station up to an hour and a half early as I do for a plane at an airport. What's more, I don't have to wait for my luggage (I'm talking about regular travel, not a little weekend with a carry on). Nor do I even have to worry about luggage allowances. And other than first class seats, I have yet to see airline comfort even beginning to approach the comfort of a Eurostar first class car, not to mention the ease of moving about during the ride, using restrooms, or whatever. No, for me sitting and relaxing on a train is far more "easy" and "elegant" than flying and the potential problems it involves.
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Old Sep 6th, 2004, 06:44 AM
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Despite its small size (I usually like large public areas) "De Witte Lelie" would've been ideal, sadly they only had reservations for the middle of my three night stay - so obviously I wasn't tempted! Thank you for your information on the sails building, as well as suppling the addresses that i was unable to.

Patrick: The queues at Waterloo were horrendous and took over forty minutes (going first class) to get through. The taxi to Waterloo from Mayfair took over twenty minutes (upon my return in rush hour traffic). As for comfort, I'm not very tall, yet I found the seats uncomfortable, the "restroom" was absolutely disgusting, and the hand-dryer was not working. Complaining achieved very little. It was utterly pretentious! Flying economy is preferable to first on Eurostar, and the food is of a similar standard. Furthermore, if flights are booked well in advance it is cheaper too.
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Old Sep 6th, 2004, 10:22 AM
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Two more shops to recommend in Antwerp:
- Coccodrillo, Schuttershofstraat 9: greatest shoes in town, Prada, Miu Miu, Clergerie, Helmut Lang, Jil Sander, Antwerp 6 and many others
- Fragma, Nationalestraat 35: Versace, Missoni, Givenchy, Cacharel,...
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Old Sep 6th, 2004, 10:23 AM
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For the benefit of those who have not yet read it.
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Old Sep 6th, 2004, 10:32 AM
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"It was utterly pretentious!"


Then I can't imagine why in the world you didn't like it and why you didn't feel right at home!

And who cares if the flight is cheaper? As a brilliant traveler just said on another thread -- 'if someone "splurges", then they (sic) should "splurge properly" or not at all'. Now who was it who said that?
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Old Sep 6th, 2004, 10:36 AM
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My point about the flight being cheaper is that not only is it preferable, it costs less too!
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Old Sep 6th, 2004, 10:36 AM
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Thanks for the very interesting report m_kingdom2. Would I ever love to go shopping with you, it sounds like a blast!
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Old Sep 7th, 2004, 03:01 AM
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Re: Coccodrillo, Schuttershofstraat 9

I left unimpressed with their selection which was an overly edited viewing of shoes from various designers' autumn/winter 04/05 collections. Verso's shoes were far more impressive, they even sold fragrances and beauty products - a real lifestyle store, and better than anything in London!
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Old Sep 7th, 2004, 03:31 AM
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The thing with shops in Antwerp is, that they are mostly boutiques, where a number of designer labels are sold. They necessarily have to make a selection, but if the buyer for the shop is good, that can be an advantage too. In London, there is just so much more choice; you will find a designer's entire collection there.
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Old Sep 7th, 2004, 03:51 AM
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...that said, I was able to purchase many pieces from local designers that I've been unable to find in London. Verso which of course sold selections had very carefully chosen pieces, leaving the ridiculously runway/catwalk pieces behind.
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Old Sep 7th, 2004, 05:18 AM
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What exactly does one do with so many clothes? Is the act of looking for and buying clothes your primary reason for travel?

Do you actually wear them or just display them in your 10,000 sf Mayfair mansion? I'd be interested in knowing what you spend on clothes in one year. I'm sure it equals the GNP of a small African country.
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Old Nov 1st, 2004, 11:57 AM
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Internet Fashion Show with streaming . . .whatever its called. Let's see the Antwerp haul online, M Kingdom!
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Old Nov 1st, 2004, 12:36 PM
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Degas, let me apologise for not replying sooner, I never noticed your question. One wears all of these clothes, I rarely buy one off pieces. I tend to stick to things that I can wear again in a couple of season's time, and it shouldn't look at all dated. Combined with pieces with the season's key trends.

Sadly, my technology is not nearly as up to date as my wardrobe. Wireless internet is as high-tech as it gets. As for streaming, I've no idea I'm afraid.

As a side-note. A couple of the Dries van Noten items, have sold out in both Antwerp and London stockists. You should always try to buy pieces that will be sell-outs, not only does it mean they're exclusive, they won't be in sales either.
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