Lyon,Annecy,Cremieu,Perouges

Old Mar 12th, 2004, 03:39 PM
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Lyon,Annecy,Cremieu,Perouges

Can anyone suggest activities or "must see' places in or near the above? Will be doing a tour by car this summer and would like to find out as much as possible about the area. Have looked at various travel guides and they are somewhat repetitious. I feel certain that I'll do much better on this forum. Thanks!
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Old Mar 12th, 2004, 04:15 PM
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Ivé been to Peruges for overnights and dinner three times and once to Annnecy, great markets and night life there, that included a drag queen bar with friendly locals. Lac Annecy is very beautiful where we were staying in Tailloires that has wonderful restaurants.
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Old Mar 12th, 2004, 04:20 PM
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Near Annecy, go to the col de la Forclaz for a beautiful view of the lake and seeing people take off on parawings. They also offer rides for about 80 euros, with a landing on the lake shore. If you go to the south end of the lake and then go up to the col, you will get a very narrow road. The north approach to the col has a wider road.
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Old Mar 12th, 2004, 04:21 PM
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I forgot: for Lyon, go see the silk museum.
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Old Mar 12th, 2004, 04:36 PM
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P.S. Watch the French film, "Claire's Knee", a Rohmer movie filmed in Annecy and on the lake.
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Old Mar 12th, 2004, 04:44 PM
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We rented a small boat for a couple of hours on Lake Annecy. It was beautiful and fun to have your "own" boat.
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Old Mar 12th, 2004, 06:35 PM
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Across the lake from Talloires is the Abbey de Hautecombe, well worth seeing. As well as an operating abbey, it's the burial place for many of the rulers of the House of Savoy and a fascinating place to see.

In Lyon there's much to see; look at the city's web site for suggestions. The traboulles, "secret" passageways in the walls of the old city, are very interesting, and you can take a tour of them. There's an excellent fine arts museum as well as the silk museum mentioned above. And all those great restaurants, too.
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Old Mar 13th, 2004, 04:32 AM
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We made the trip from Annecy to Chamonix for the day last June. If you don't believe in god, you will after taking the cablecar up and over the glacier. It's a little over an hour away and well worth it.

I would highly recommend this as a side trip from Annecy as well as renting a boat as listed above. Pack a picnic and cruise the lake.

Have fun.

Brian
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Old Mar 13th, 2004, 09:07 AM
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Thanks for the suggestions. My itinerary is based on info I originally got from posters on this board. Just thought I'd see if anyone had additional comments. And indeed you came through, as always.
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Old Mar 13th, 2004, 01:26 PM
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Pérouges is a destination in itself, but it's also not far from Bourg-en-Bresse, where you can see a splendid Flamboyant Gothic church. You might think about paying a visit to the charming village of Vonnas and having a wonderful lunch at Georges Blanc--or if not, picking up some food and gift items at the boutique owned by Blanc. Vonnas is a village fleuris; so you're guaranteed beautiful flower plantings.
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Old Mar 14th, 2004, 07:52 AM
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Hello Pipsil

Here are a few highlights that come to mind:

Lyon: - Take a boat trip up to the Ile Barbe with the river cruise operator Navig'Inter. IMO, more interesting and pretty than the longer trip offered to the confluence.
- Take the uphill metro line C to Croix Rousse and stroll through the market (the best in Lyon) every morning except Monday.
- Take the funicular up to the Basilique de Fourvière and then walk down to the old town through the gardens on the hillside. Then go straight to St Jean Cathedral and compare the architecture and décor. Two extremes!!
- Wander through the traboules in the old town (more interesting than those on slopes of Croix-Rousse - you can get map of them from the Tourist Office on Place Bellecour).
- Have an apéritif in a café on Place des Terreaux.
- Go for a stroll in the Parc de la Tête d'Or.
- Visit the Musée des Beaux Arts and check out the gardens (and apparently, the café has a lovely terrasse in the summer).
- Visit the Roman amphitheatres and the museum of Gallo-Roman history.

Annecy: I think one of the nicest things about Annecy is that there aren't a load of "must see" monuments or museums. I went there for 3 days with my parents, a few summers ago, and we just ambled around all day taking pics, sketching and reading, stopping for meals and coffees and ice creams and apéritifs. IMO, the castle isn't really that interesting (we went because it was raining!). Boat trip round the lake is definitely worthwhile though.

Pérouges: I'm not sure what "must-sees" I can recommend here. We just wandered around - it's quite small, very pretty - masses of photo opportunities and lovely views. Oh, and we enjoyed a fabulous meal at the Ostellerie.

Crémieu: I've still not been, so I'm hoping you'll come back with loads of recommendations!
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Old Mar 14th, 2004, 08:35 AM
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We just returned from that area. In addition to ideas mentioned by previous posters, here are a few things we found enjoyable.

Lyon - If you have any interest in archaeology, and maybe even if you don't, the excavated Roman theaters and adjoining museum are fantastic. You should also sample the local "bouchons" - small restaurants that are keeping the traditions of Lyonnais gastronomy alive. Note that virtually every restaurant in Lyon refers to itself as a bouchon, but there are only 19 officially designated as such and permitted to display the emblem. We ate at La Mere Jean at 5 rue des Maronniers, and it was fantastic. Continuing the food theme, the indoor food markets, Les Halles, also make an interesting place to visit.

Just a few miles southwest of Annecy, Chateau Montrottier and the Gorges du Fier (closed for the season when we were there in early March, but we've visited on other trips) make a very nice day trip with lots of picnicking opportunities in the area. We've also enjoyed the all-you-can-eat raclette at the Au Lilas Rose restaurant in Annecy, though I freely admit it can feel a bit touristy.

For a lovely and unusual day trip, consider driving up into the Valley of the Grand Chartreuse, east of Lyon and south of Annecy. The drive up the gorge into the valley from St. Laurent-du-Pont to St. Pierre de Chartreuse is spectacular and you can then work your way north to the other St Pierre and thence down to Chambery. If you'd like to get a sense of what the trip would be like, find a copy of Roy Andries de Groot's book "The Auberge of the Flowering Hearth." The inn is still there, just south of St. Pierre de Chartreuse.

Perouges is a great visit - the restaurant at the inn, whose name escapes me at the moment, is wonderful but pricey, particularly with the current exchange rate.
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Old Mar 14th, 2004, 08:50 AM
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Perouges - Don't forget to try the local speciality - the name escapes me - but it is sold just around the corner from the Ostellerie...sold out of a little window from the kitchen - it is a sort of a sugar tart..simple, sweet, nice.
We stayed in the hotel in a huge room overlooking the courtyard where the church stands. Enjoy.
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Old Mar 14th, 2004, 09:02 AM
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The restaurant is the Hostellerie Du Vieux Peruges. The sweet is Galette de Peruges.
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Old Mar 14th, 2004, 09:24 AM
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Hi all of you great posters,
I am overwhelmed with the information still coming in. I didn't think there would be that much to see but I was so wrong! It sounds like one could spend a month in the area and not get bored. Yes I will report after my return but as I will be gone for 2 1/2 months leaving in May it won't be until late summer. Still, the information will be useful even then. Hanl, I believe you were the one who decided me to book into Cremieu in the first place, And I did book into the Hostellerie Du Vieux Perouges. You wouldn't believe how nice they are.After all, it must be a much sought after place and they didn't even want a credit card number to guarantee the room! They just hoped we would let them know if we couldn't make it. Unheard of these days. Also made dinner reservations there. Can't wait for the raclette in Annecy. One of my all time favorites. Touristy? So what. I am there to enjoy the food. Have read about the bouchons so am glad to get some first hand recommendations. Lyon is also the home of Paul Bocuse.Is he the chef who reputedly committed suicide because he lost a Michelin star? As you can tell I'm into food. Not to the exclusion of everything else though I'm glad to say. Thanks again to all of you
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Old Mar 14th, 2004, 12:42 PM
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Re: Perouges - yes cigalechanta it was Hostellerie Du Vieux Peruges and the tart is Galette de Peruges - thank you for the mind jog!

My two girlfriends arrived very late one evening into the village of Perouges driving through the very small cobblestone streets to the hotel - it was very late and we did not have reservations but the owner made us feel so welcome and even though the kitchen was closed offered us a meal. In the morning we had breakfast by the large fireplace...just a magical place with wonderful service and friendly people.
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Old Mar 14th, 2004, 12:49 PM
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Pipsil:

No, Paul Bocuse was not the one who tried to commit suicide. Actually, didn't hear of his restaurant losing aMichelin star.

Anyway, last October, we had the opportunity to dine at Bocuse's restaurant at Pont de Collonges (set us back a by a lot of Euros for a 4-hour dinner) and a Euro 50 lunch at his brasserie called Le Nord in downtown Lyon. Honestly, we enjoyed our time at the brasserie with mostly locals hanging around.

We didn't spend much time at Lyon, but, next time we do, we'll make sure to sample as much restaurants as we can.
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Old Mar 14th, 2004, 01:00 PM
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The chef who killed himself because he thought he MIGHT lose 3 Michelin stars was Bernard Loiseaux. And he wasn't going to lose the stars, as it turned out.
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Old Mar 14th, 2004, 01:15 PM
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But he did not kill himself over the stars. He had long been in depression his wife and doctor said. His wife is carrying on the business.
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Old Mar 14th, 2004, 02:08 PM
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What is the location of Loiseaux's restaurant? I recall reading about it but clearly I didn't remember the right chef or Restaurant .
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