Kavey

My husband and I are off to Bologna in a week for a 4 night long weekend break.<BR><BR>I've been reading my guidebook and also searching through past posts here on the board for tips from other Fodorites.<BR><BR>However I'd just like to make this request for any additional tips from residents or past visitors:<BR><BR>We want to buy some good balsamic vinegar, parmesan cheese and parma ham during the trip - is it worthwhile visiting stores in each respective town of manufacture or can anyone recommend a good place to purchase these in Bologna itself? I know we can no doubt buy them from a variety of different stores through the city but I am looking for recommendations of places that are particularly good on quality and price.<BR><BR>We're still undecided on excursions - do you consider it worthwhile visiting Modena to tour a Balsamic vinegar manufacturer and the other attractions of the town? What other excursion would you choose above all?<BR><BR>We're staying in the San Donato - can anyone recommend some good restaurants in that area of Bologna, and also others in nearby towns such as Modena, Parma, etc?<BR><BR>Were there any sights you visited that stood out from the others for you? Were there any you felt you shouldn't really have bothered with?<BR><BR>Any and all advice gratefully received!<BR><BR>Thank you in advance.<BR><BR>Kavey

Howard

Kavey, I've nothing new to add to previous threads, but want to again urge you to visit Ferrara.<BR>And, please post a followup report. I hope to be back there later this year!

Alice Twain

All the products you have listed (and several more) are available at good food shops in Bologna. Right in the center of the city, near the two towers there is an area of shops. It looks something like an open air market because the shops are tiny and they have stalls outside. In this area you can find really interesting shops (although not on the cheap side). In any case, if you are interested in visiting a manufacture of balsamic vinnegar, I suggest you to check out the acetaia san Giacomo (http://www.acetaiasangiacomo.com/). Contact Andrea and ask him to fix a visit to his acetaia.

Howard

Kavey, just remembered one shopping tip for Bologna. At the base of one of the towers is an excellent crafts shop featuring items created by local artisans.

Howard

Kavey, thought of one more thing that as far as I know has never been mentioned about Bologna on the forum. <BR>One day, we had a delightful cab driver who decided to take a detour. Since he spoke little English, we had no idea where he was taking us. We became a bit nervous, especially when he stopped the cab and asked/told us to get out. The fear quickly turned to delight when he signaled us to peer through an opening in a wall where we saw the dried-up remains of what had be a canal system that existed in Bologna many years ago.<BR>I can't tell you exactly where it is, except somewhere in the central area. Perhaps you can be as lucky as us and find a local who can direct you to the site.

Paul

Spent a week in Bologna last spring. Yes we found the canals in town but if you really want to learn about them and the history and industrial hertiage of the city I highly recommend the Museo del Patrimonio Industriale at via della Beverara 123. It is in an old foundry and is a wonderful museum with all the details of the industry of the area. What is more it is free! It us not too easy to get to but a municipal bus runs quite close to it. Ask for directions. Highly recommened - one of the best museums around and quite new. If you have any interest in classical music, specifically opera, I trip to Bongiovanni, Via Ugo Bassi 31 is in order. Right in the middle of town. If the opera has been recorded it is there. Great place, great selection and even nicer people. Enjoy Bologna and eat well. Now about looking for the canal that was mentionned. Walk on the via A. Righi away from the via dell' independenza. Turn right on the via Piella and you should cross it. You have to look very carefully since the viewing area is very small on both sides of the street. I think I have the correct street but if you take me there I can definitely find it for you. Good luck

Howard

Paul, thanks for the added tips, along with a special appreciation for the directions to the canals we saw.

kavey

Thank you thank you thank you!<BR>I'll be printing all the advice I've gleaned here and taking it with me, tucked inside my guide book.<BR>Alice, thanks for the contact details for that acetaia.<BR>Kavey

Paul

Aceteria very good idea. A visit to a Parmigiano Reggiano factory might be even more interesting and you probably will get to taste even more.

rar

The canal can be seen off of Via Righi, on one of the side streets to the right. You'll see the canal clearly on the left side of the street and on the right side is a little wood window you can open and peer through

rar

Good restaurants include:<BR><BR>Osteria 15, Via Mirasole 15 (Bolognese)<BR>Trattoria san Pietro (off of Indipendenza) (traditional Italian, a bit pricey but great great service)<BR>Bella Napoli, Via San Felice (great pizza, fun restaurant)<BR>Nikola's, Via Oberdan and Via Marsala (cheap and good food)<BR>

kavey

Sorry I didn't pick up the last few posts, we left on the 16th and I didn't have internet access that day as our ADSL chose that moment to go down!<BR><BR>We had a wonderful visit.<BR><BR>I had a lot of problems with both my hip pains and migraines so we didn't see as much as we intended - we did see what we wanted to see within Bologna but didn't take a single trip outside it. <BR><BR>But we did really enjoy the visit and will go back one day to see what we missed.<BR><BR>We did have a visit to the Acetaia arranged but unfortunately the very kind owner had to cancel the day before so that's something we will look forward to on our next trip.<BR><BR>Many thanks for the advice and sharing of excitement.<BR><BR>Kindest Regards<BR>Kavey

Howard

Kavey,<BR>I'm eager to hear what you did in Bologna, i.e., &quot;we did see what we wanted to see.&quot;<BR>Maybe you'll provide some good tips for our possible return there in the fall!

kavey

Howard<BR>Mostly we spent a lot of time walking around and entered what seemed to be a thousand churches!<BR>My absolute favourite was the San Stefano churches - a mish mash of several churches and cloisters of different ages - from 5th century onwards and possibly older.<BR>We also stumbled into a tiny church on San Vitale and were about to leave when the curator came out of his office and asked if we'd like to see the crypts below - fascinating.<BR>We ate very well indeed and took lots of photos. We didn't do any museums and we didn't get out of Bologna. <BR>Probably by most people's standards what we did in 4 days they could do in 1.5 or 2 days!<BR>Do email me if you want any more details and I can dig out stuff.<BR<BR>kavey

Howard

Kavey,<BR>Thanks for the mini-report. I've added your church recommendations to my Bologna file. (And, if we do end up back in Bologna this fall, I certainly will contact you for more details.)<BR>As for your comment, &quot;Probably by most people's standards what we did in 4 days they could do in 1.5 or 2 days,&quot; hey, you're our kind of traveler. We tally the success of a trip not by the quantity of things we saw, but the quality of each experience!

kavey

Howard<BR>I do have a mini trip record in a booklet in the case (I haven't unpacked yet) so would be happy to dig out more restaurant recommendations and church names etc.<BR>We ended up doing something we seldom do and had 2 lunches and one dinner in the same restaurant - it was soo good I just could NOT resist... pretty much every where we ate was nice but this one was just that touch better. I'm not talking posh places - we spent 30 Euros a head max on a full meal.<BR>Anyway, chat soon.<BR>Kavey

Bert

Kavey,<BR><BR>Looking forward to hearing more about your visit to Bologna and especially the two lunches,one dinner restaurant. And can you recommend the San Donato?<BR><BR>Mille grazie!

Kavey

Bert<BR>Yes I can recommend the San Donato - the rooms are modern and clean. Note that no rooms, even the Junior Suite we were upgraded to, have baths - just showers. I say this because, on balance, I'd prefer a bathtub to soak away aches at the end of the day.<BR><BR>Very helpful staff, fantastic central location, lots of cafes and restaurants near by, lovely bar and lounge area.<BR><BR>In winter breakfast is served indoors but in summer I understand it's served outdoors on the roof terrace - how marvellous as there are views of various campanile towers.<BR><BR>Will have to dig out restau details.

Bert

Thanks, Kavey

peterrabbitt

do consider going to modena. the town is delightful. do not miss the old church in the town square. good walking place. in bologna it you look to the top of the ridge there is an old structure(church) on top. ask there is a set of stairs(1000 steps or more) to climb but the view from the top is wondreful. also go to the university section the medical school has a great pathology museum if you have a strong stomach. the shopping is top notch in the old section so walk and have a ball. seee if the sunday bizzare is still going. great city hope you enjoy it as much as we have