Long weekend in Amsterdam
Jun 21st, 2010, 12:27 PM
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Long weekend in Amsterdam
Ive never really wanted to go to Amsterdam, I had an idea it was a bit sleezy and grubby and unless someone on this forum had not told me about the Hermitage Matisse exhibition, I would still not have been. That would be shame because Amsterdam is vibrant, eclectic, cultured, bohemian and fun!
Overall impressions are as follows:
1. Its a very liberal city. Cannabis plants were openly on sale on the bulb market , a discrete little note in the hotel room stated it was NOT permitted to smoke on the premises and those caught would be fined 150 euros and thrown out and, on more than one occasion, I caught a waft of something a bit mind altering in the evening air. And yet, that does not give an accurate impression at all, because Amsterdam is a bohemian mixture of culture and tolerance. it took me a day or so to gauge the rhythm of the place but when you start to harmonize its a supremely well balanced way of life. And the straight laced abstainers (definitely numbering me amongst them ) are tolerated as well.
2. Amsterdam was built in the 1600's and to be honest Im not sure that much has changed - its full of cobbled allies and graceful buildings and seems to be there for people to live in, not cars to drive around.
Bearing in mind comment one, there are a lot of tripping hazards on the pavements, and I am amazed more people do not end up at the bottom of a set of basement steps or taking an early bath in the canal. That's before I even start on the camicazi tenancies of the average Dutch cyclist. Everyone rides bicycles and what is so nice is that its not about getting dressed up in Lycra and titanium frame technology, you just climb on board an old crate in whatever you chose to wear that day and start peddling. Be warned on the 12th June each year they have an annual naked cycling rally through the streets.
3. Amsterdam is compact and architecturally interesting and rewards those that put in the effort to walk. Having said that I bought a 3 day I Am pass that for 58 euros gave me free public transport and free entry into every major place of interest. I saved a bundle. The trams are numerous and efficient and the best way to get around.
So what did I do? Van Gogh Museum, Diamond Museum, Handbag Museum, Reich museum, Hermitage (twice) Rembrandt's House, River trip and a walk around the canals (not entirely intentional but pleasing none the less!) and went over, under and around the Skinny Bridge.
Between all of this, I 'lost' my hotel, had all trains back to the airport cancelled, experiences a very peculiar cup of tea (continentals just cant do tea) and forgot where I parked my car at the airport! More about this tomorrow when I'm less tired.
Overall impressions are as follows:
1. Its a very liberal city. Cannabis plants were openly on sale on the bulb market , a discrete little note in the hotel room stated it was NOT permitted to smoke on the premises and those caught would be fined 150 euros and thrown out and, on more than one occasion, I caught a waft of something a bit mind altering in the evening air. And yet, that does not give an accurate impression at all, because Amsterdam is a bohemian mixture of culture and tolerance. it took me a day or so to gauge the rhythm of the place but when you start to harmonize its a supremely well balanced way of life. And the straight laced abstainers (definitely numbering me amongst them ) are tolerated as well.
2. Amsterdam was built in the 1600's and to be honest Im not sure that much has changed - its full of cobbled allies and graceful buildings and seems to be there for people to live in, not cars to drive around.
Bearing in mind comment one, there are a lot of tripping hazards on the pavements, and I am amazed more people do not end up at the bottom of a set of basement steps or taking an early bath in the canal. That's before I even start on the camicazi tenancies of the average Dutch cyclist. Everyone rides bicycles and what is so nice is that its not about getting dressed up in Lycra and titanium frame technology, you just climb on board an old crate in whatever you chose to wear that day and start peddling. Be warned on the 12th June each year they have an annual naked cycling rally through the streets.
3. Amsterdam is compact and architecturally interesting and rewards those that put in the effort to walk. Having said that I bought a 3 day I Am pass that for 58 euros gave me free public transport and free entry into every major place of interest. I saved a bundle. The trams are numerous and efficient and the best way to get around.
So what did I do? Van Gogh Museum, Diamond Museum, Handbag Museum, Reich museum, Hermitage (twice) Rembrandt's House, River trip and a walk around the canals (not entirely intentional but pleasing none the less!) and went over, under and around the Skinny Bridge.
Between all of this, I 'lost' my hotel, had all trains back to the airport cancelled, experiences a very peculiar cup of tea (continentals just cant do tea) and forgot where I parked my car at the airport! More about this tomorrow when I'm less tired.
Jun 22nd, 2010, 12:36 PM
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Missed this before.
Glad you enjoyed Amsterdam.
It used to be the armpit of the world but it has improved, largely thanks to it's former mayor Job Cohen, though Palenque would probably beg to differ
.
Glad you enjoyed Amsterdam.
It used to be the armpit of the world but it has improved, largely thanks to it's former mayor Job Cohen, though Palenque would probably beg to differ
.
Jun 22nd, 2010, 12:59 PM
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There has been acres said about this city so I wont drivel on and repeat it all again.
I will pick out two thin gs.
1. The Hermitage. What a superb place. The exhibition was a selection of works originally collected by Sergei Shchukin and claimed by the state in the Russian revolution. They include Matisse's The Red Room and my favourite Composition 6 by Wassily Kandinsky. I can stand in front of this work for hours and disappear into its depths as colour and light swirl through my mind. It invokes an intense emotion of exhilaration.
The selection differed from the From Russia event that came to London last year. A little disappointed not to see Dance and Music, but only a little as the exhibition was so well put together.
On a practical level the audio tour is superb. There is plenty of space to see the works even when it is busy and there are places to sit down. The cafe restaurant serves very good quality food at reasonable prices although the menu is short. 13.50 euros for lunch with two coffees.
2. The handbag museum. Starting in the seventeenth century this is a collection for any one who loves decorative arts. Its based in a beautiful old house and has a marvellous and quite luxurious coffee shop.
The shop sells bags from upcoming designers and they offer to gift wrap.
I came away incredibly inspired to get back to some bag making myself. Well worth the visit.
I will pick out two thin gs.
1. The Hermitage. What a superb place. The exhibition was a selection of works originally collected by Sergei Shchukin and claimed by the state in the Russian revolution. They include Matisse's The Red Room and my favourite Composition 6 by Wassily Kandinsky. I can stand in front of this work for hours and disappear into its depths as colour and light swirl through my mind. It invokes an intense emotion of exhilaration.
The selection differed from the From Russia event that came to London last year. A little disappointed not to see Dance and Music, but only a little as the exhibition was so well put together.
On a practical level the audio tour is superb. There is plenty of space to see the works even when it is busy and there are places to sit down. The cafe restaurant serves very good quality food at reasonable prices although the menu is short. 13.50 euros for lunch with two coffees.
2. The handbag museum. Starting in the seventeenth century this is a collection for any one who loves decorative arts. Its based in a beautiful old house and has a marvellous and quite luxurious coffee shop.
The shop sells bags from upcoming designers and they offer to gift wrap.
I came away incredibly inspired to get back to some bag making myself. Well worth the visit.
Jun 22nd, 2010, 03:56 PM
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Hi Seamus and Bratsandbeer
Yes the pass lets you avoid the queues, particularly at the Van Gogh museum. I bought at 72 hour pass for 58 euros and wondered if I would get value out of it. Even if you only do two things a day, with transport costs as well you will save money.
Some places you have to pay a small amount, at the Hermitage I paid 3 euro instead of 15, but everywhere else it was free at point of entry.
In addition, you get 25% discount on many restaurants and cafes. The only thing I paid for really was audio guides but his was about 5 Euros each.
The cost of the train from the airport is 4.5 euros each way. As you get off the train, walk through the building to the second exit area and he tourist office is outside marked VVVV. This is where you can buy your pass. You can get a museum pass that lasts for a year and a separate travel pass but I don't suppose I would have got as good a value out of that.
I was surprised at how cheap the food was - certainly cheaper than London.
The Matisse closes 17th September.
Have fun both!
Yes the pass lets you avoid the queues, particularly at the Van Gogh museum. I bought at 72 hour pass for 58 euros and wondered if I would get value out of it. Even if you only do two things a day, with transport costs as well you will save money.
Some places you have to pay a small amount, at the Hermitage I paid 3 euro instead of 15, but everywhere else it was free at point of entry.
In addition, you get 25% discount on many restaurants and cafes. The only thing I paid for really was audio guides but his was about 5 Euros each.
The cost of the train from the airport is 4.5 euros each way. As you get off the train, walk through the building to the second exit area and he tourist office is outside marked VVVV. This is where you can buy your pass. You can get a museum pass that lasts for a year and a separate travel pass but I don't suppose I would have got as good a value out of that.
I was surprised at how cheap the food was - certainly cheaper than London.
The Matisse closes 17th September.
Have fun both!
Jun 23rd, 2010, 03:54 AM
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When I saw your name posted under the thread title, I thought to myself, "with a name like that, they should visit the Handbag & Purse Museum", so I was delighted to see that you actually had. I've had an interest in this museum since it opened a year or two ago, but I think your's is the first trip report that I have read where someone actually visited the museum. I'm glad you weren't disappointed.
<i>"Amsterdam is a bohemian mixture of culture and tolerance."</i>
An excellent description of one of my most favorite cities.
Thanks for the trip report, so far. Looking forward to the next installment.
Robyn
<i>"Amsterdam is a bohemian mixture of culture and tolerance."</i>
An excellent description of one of my most favorite cities.
Thanks for the trip report, so far. Looking forward to the next installment.
Robyn
Jun 23rd, 2010, 04:55 AM
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OK, I'm going to tackle my extraordinary ability to look at a map, work out where I am, and then walk with supreme confidence in entirely the wrong direction. This complete lack of spacial reasoning is not restricted to my perambulations around Amsterdam, I tend to employ it universally.
Taking all that into account, if you have the ability to read a map this may not apply to you.
My first odyssey was a result of the similarity of street names next to each other. I knew my hotel was near to a tram stop and no problem getting to there. But as I got off, I walked in entirely the wrong direction, changed my mind, walked back the other way but parallel to where I needed to be, decided that was wrong as well so reverted to plan 1, got to the end of the road, crossed the canal, walked back and was rescued by a very nice American Lady walking her dog. She pointed me to the parallel road and off I set, walked back up the road, across the street (nearly moan down by a cyclist as all English people intuitively look the wrong way) and found that the hotel was less than 50 feet from where I started behind me!! (I later found the instructions on finding the hotel on my desk at work...)
(insert eyes raised smiley thingy here)
The other problem was that it took me a while to realise that the streets along the canals go ROUND. So I came out of the Hermitage, decided to go to the Handbag Museum, wrongly looked it up on the map, took a tram to the top left of the map. Found the street and proceeded to walk back to where I started! Having said this, I really enjoyed the walk and I would recommend anyone to walk the length of a canal circle - but perhaps you should do it intentionally.
The canal trip I took was the Blue Boat that goes from just out side the Marriott on tram line 1in the museum quarter (Liebplatz or something??). It takes 75 minutes and is very good value for money. The boats are low and flat and have tables and chairs with typical tourist glass roof. Having walked so extensively I knew exactly where I was as the tour progressed and this made it all the more fun.
I always like to take a boat trip when visiting cities with water as it gives such a different perspective. Normally its a straight line up and back, but here its a twisty turney and sometimes buttock clinching squeeze through the city. Great fun!
As to my several loops of the carpark to find my car, I have no excuse or explanation. If this happens to you, my advise is to go back to the beginning and start again!
Taking all that into account, if you have the ability to read a map this may not apply to you.
My first odyssey was a result of the similarity of street names next to each other. I knew my hotel was near to a tram stop and no problem getting to there. But as I got off, I walked in entirely the wrong direction, changed my mind, walked back the other way but parallel to where I needed to be, decided that was wrong as well so reverted to plan 1, got to the end of the road, crossed the canal, walked back and was rescued by a very nice American Lady walking her dog. She pointed me to the parallel road and off I set, walked back up the road, across the street (nearly moan down by a cyclist as all English people intuitively look the wrong way) and found that the hotel was less than 50 feet from where I started behind me!! (I later found the instructions on finding the hotel on my desk at work...)
(insert eyes raised smiley thingy here)
The other problem was that it took me a while to realise that the streets along the canals go ROUND. So I came out of the Hermitage, decided to go to the Handbag Museum, wrongly looked it up on the map, took a tram to the top left of the map. Found the street and proceeded to walk back to where I started! Having said this, I really enjoyed the walk and I would recommend anyone to walk the length of a canal circle - but perhaps you should do it intentionally.
The canal trip I took was the Blue Boat that goes from just out side the Marriott on tram line 1in the museum quarter (Liebplatz or something??). It takes 75 minutes and is very good value for money. The boats are low and flat and have tables and chairs with typical tourist glass roof. Having walked so extensively I knew exactly where I was as the tour progressed and this made it all the more fun.
I always like to take a boat trip when visiting cities with water as it gives such a different perspective. Normally its a straight line up and back, but here its a twisty turney and sometimes buttock clinching squeeze through the city. Great fun!
As to my several loops of the carpark to find my car, I have no excuse or explanation. If this happens to you, my advise is to go back to the beginning and start again!
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