ajs

First of all, my thanks to all here for being the indispensable source of firsthand knowledge, that makes planning a trip here in the new millennium, a lot less of a risky proposition. I’m the type of person who, while liking to be surprised by unplanned discoveries, also likes to know what to expect in terms of concrete things like hotels, transportation, and restaurants for special dinners. And I really like to save money on travel, but not at the expense of comfort. Do you remember the days of a guide book and expensive long distance phone calls? <BR><BR>I began to plan this trip last August for my wife’s 40th birthday. I was able to use FF miles for the airfares out of Philadelphia. While we live in Maryland, I didn’t want to take any chances on delays from Baltimore, or the mishandled baggage transfer in PHL, so opted for the extra 90 minute drive. Didn’t love the airport, but also didn’t experience any of the nightmares I saw here regarding passport control on the return. We were in our car 55 minutes after landing. We also had the Airbus 330 on the return trip with the personal video, which was outstanding. For the outbound we took Ambien, on the advice of many here. Our plane sat on the runway for 3 ½ hours due to T-storms. A nightmare, right? No, it gave us that much longer to sleep, and we took off closer to a normal bedtime of 9:30. I got six or seven hours of sleep, and had the least jet lag of all my trips to Europe. Took it again the first night, and were completely back by the second day. <BR><BR>After much research, I chose the Chelsea Green Hotel in South Kensington-Chelsea. I wanted a 4**** suite with A/C, and got it for 150 GBP on London town.com. Our last two days were the hottest in England this year, and we were very happy for the A/C. In the weeks before going, I kept checking late rooms.com, and found the same suite for the same days for 110 GBP, which they honored! If you’ve stayed in London, you know how great a deal that was for what we got and where we were. The hotel was fantastic. They even sent me a birthday card back in April. I emailed the day before departure, and upon my request, they had balloons strung across the entrance to the bedroom, and flowers laying on the bed for my wife. They charged me 10 pounds. It is in a quiet neighborhood, less than five minutes walk to the South Ken tube, and many outstanding restaurants along Kings Road and Fulham St. Big room, heated towel racks, two TV’s, glass ceilinged conservatory for breakfast, friendly staff, and almost brand new inside. Can’t recommend it enough. There are also a drug store and Laundromat two blocks down around the small Chelsea Green square. <BR><BR><BR><BR><BR><BR>

ajs

Ate dinners in London at VAMA (Indian), Itsu (a great conveyor belt sushi place two minutes walk from the hotel), and at several little places right near the South Ken tube. All really excellent. There is also an Internet Caf&eacute; right near the tube where we stopped most mornings and evening to check in on the kids. Be careful crossing streets in London, and pay attention to the ‘look left’ and look right’ painted on the road, it’s dangerous. The all day or weekend tube passes were perfect. Also, the last trains are fairly early , and we found ourselves packed like the proverbial sardine on one Saturday night after the theater. Everyone exiting at the same time in a city of 10 million, on one of the hottest days: hence, our expression, the ‘body odor express’. That was the longest five tube stops ever. <BR><BR>My wife and I are swearing off Cathedrals. To us, St Pauls was a waste of $20. Sorry, but after seeing St Vitus in Prague, it just got old. To us, the best things in London were the Tower of London, the British Library, the theater, and the restaurants. We did B-ham Palace and Harrods and all the usuals, but those were our faves. The Tower is a condensed history of all things British, and the Yeoman Warder tour is a must. We spent four hours there. I recommend going directly from here to the British Library. To hear the stories of Sir Thomas Moore and Lady Jane Grey, then to see the actual things written by them whilst in the Tower, is a powerful historical connection. The display of historical documents at the Library was unlike anything I has seen, and there was almost no one there. Couldn’t believe it. To stand, gazing at an original Mozart work, while listening to the same on the headphones there was special. Not to mention the original hand-written lyrics to “Ticket to Ride” “In My Life” and “Michelle”, while listening to the same, enough to give you chills. We saw Full Monty, Mamma Mia, and Lion King. All great. <BR><BR><BR><BR><BR><BR><BR><BR>

ajs

On to Prague, where we spent four days in between two weekends in London. We had Chris pick us up at the airport, another great Fodor’s tip. It was perfect to have an American that was totally on time and nice and informative, for a little more than the price of a cab. We stayed at the Metamorphis, just off the main square, in the Tyn Courtyard. Location was as good as it gets, however, thank goodness it was fairly cool, as our room had no A/C and the courtyard was loud late into the night with the windows open. Closed was fine. We had one of the two huge suites, and it was almost too big. The spires of Tyn Church loom over the courtyard and were a gorgeous site at night with the uplighting. Very nice, newly remodeled. Staff was great, the basement restaurant for meals is a 400 year old Romanesque cellar. Again, checking the ABAKA hotel site in the weeks leading up to the trip, I noticed a ’four nights for the price of three’ deal at our hotel. Since we were staying four nights, I emailed them and they honored the price. Saved another $200. <BR>Oue second day, we used the much vaunted Sabina for a personal tour, and she was as advertised. I had gotten the book “Prague, My Love” on the advice here, and we left it for Sabina at the end of our stay. <BR><BR>Prague is wonderful and one of the most beautiful cities I’ve ever seen. The main square in Old Town is simply compelling, and a place you could sit for hours just watching the people of the world stroll by. Charles Bridge , the Castle, Kampa Island, all very unique. Make sure to have very comfortable shoes, as almost the whole town is cobblestone. My wife wore her Ecco Cosmo sandals, and I had those in men’s, as well as my Mephisto Naddo boots (Sierra Trading Post for $122!), and our feet couldn’t have been happier. <BR>Our only disappointment was the level of touristy shops. If never see another crystal or marionette shop, it’ll be too soon. Even at the Castle, there is a small street called the Golden Lane. It is a row of peasant houses from long ago. They had every single one turned in to a shop, and not one preserved with period furniture to give a feel for how these people might have lived. Sad. A very nice walk that not many do, is up Vlasska strret in Mala Strana, past the American Embassy, and up the steps to the Strahov Monastery. Along the path from the top of the steps to Strahov, is one of the prettiest views down on Prague that we saw. The librarys at the monastery were stunning. From there, you’re already up the Castle hill, so the walk is easy. <BR><BR>We went to the Estates Theater for Don Giovanni one evening. It is the original theater where Mozart first conducted it. What more need you say? Outstanding. <BR>There was a poster here who said he ate at the Flambee Caf&eacute; five times. We know why. It’s the street level offshoot of the very expensive cellar restaurant, and was the best value we’ve had anywhere. Three beers apiece, appetizers, and delectable meal for $35 with tip. We went two nights in a row. The last night we ate ate Kampa Park, along the river in the shadow of the Charles Bridge. It was 90% Americans, and three times the price of Flambee. Great food, and unbeatable ambience, but a tough choice for the money. <BR><BR>We walked (so much that I think we lost weight), we talked, we ate fabulous meals, enjoyed great theater, and basically rejuvenated ourselves to justify the daily routines that enable such things. And then came home to our dear children, whom we can’t wait to take to Europe with us. Thanks again to all here for helping us plan a near perfect vacation (btw, it only rained one hour out of ten days). Cheers! <BR><BR>

kavey

Fabulous!<BR><BR>Could you give us any more on the restaurants you ate at near your hotel? <BR><BR>I am currently looking for one for a group event and would welcome names, rough prices and reviews.<BR><BR>Thanks<BR><BR>Kavey

ajs

Kavey,<BR><BR>I assume you mean the Chelsea Green in London? I don't know what exactly you're looking for. An event? For how many? Most of the places we ate were not huge. Give me some more info, and I'll try to help.