London & Bath Trip Report
Apr 1st, 2011 | 05:37 AM
#2
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Joined: Nov 2008
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Day 1: After a 9 hour direct flight from Dallas/Ft. Worth (none of us were able to sleep on plane - jet lag became a big problem 1st day) we settled in our rental property. Flat was lovely and very comfortable. First time to use a rental flat and experience was a good one - found property on VRBO.com - rented through London Connections - 2 bedrooms with attached full baths and another half bath. Washer/dryer came in handy. Kitchen was nice, didn't do any cooking but utilized ref./freezer.
After arriving, we soon left to do some recommended walking to combat jet lag. After picking up Oyster cards, we caught tail end of Changing of the Guard at B. Palace. There was a MOB of people. I still feel it is much better to see the Palace at another time, but it was by BIL's first time to London and he wanted to see this. Then walked through Green Park and ate lunch at Kings Arms pub. We were extremely jet lagged and didn't really enjoy our food. There was no way we could continue on and instead returned to our flat to rest up for a few hours. Later, we ventured out and enjoyed a Thames cruise from Westminster Pier to Tower Pier and walked a few blocks up to the Minories pub for dinner. The interior was barrel-shaped - it was actually inside a tunnel under a bridge and you could hear the rumble when a car drove overhead. Very dark inside - thanks to a Fodors forum recommendation, I had a tiny key chain flashlight, and we were able to read the menus because of it. DH and myself had the breaded scampi (shrimp) which was very good. BIL had a chicken breast meal (topped with cheese & bacon) that he didn't enjoy as it was dry - he also discovered their bacon is different than ours.
We then went home to unpack. Had no trouble sleeping that night!
After arriving, we soon left to do some recommended walking to combat jet lag. After picking up Oyster cards, we caught tail end of Changing of the Guard at B. Palace. There was a MOB of people. I still feel it is much better to see the Palace at another time, but it was by BIL's first time to London and he wanted to see this. Then walked through Green Park and ate lunch at Kings Arms pub. We were extremely jet lagged and didn't really enjoy our food. There was no way we could continue on and instead returned to our flat to rest up for a few hours. Later, we ventured out and enjoyed a Thames cruise from Westminster Pier to Tower Pier and walked a few blocks up to the Minories pub for dinner. The interior was barrel-shaped - it was actually inside a tunnel under a bridge and you could hear the rumble when a car drove overhead. Very dark inside - thanks to a Fodors forum recommendation, I had a tiny key chain flashlight, and we were able to read the menus because of it. DH and myself had the breaded scampi (shrimp) which was very good. BIL had a chicken breast meal (topped with cheese & bacon) that he didn't enjoy as it was dry - he also discovered their bacon is different than ours.
We then went home to unpack. Had no trouble sleeping that night!
Apr 1st, 2011 | 03:44 PM
#7
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Joined: Nov 2008
Posts: 208
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Day 2:
Felt better (from jet lag) after a good nights sleep. Got to Tower of London at 9 AM when it opened. Was able to go through the Jewel Tower when it was almost empty. Went back around and saw crown jewels from both sides - no line of people. Then had a great Yeoman Warder tour (Peter) and walked through White Tower exhibits.
Traveled on to Westminster Abbey, but stopped at The Feathers pub for lunch - pretty pub, unmemorable food except for the Eton Mess I split with DH for dessert. It was incredible! Layered sponge cake, meringue, thick cream and berries, with white chocolate shavings. Dining room upstairs, but we ate downstairs with everyone else. Planned on taking a Verger Tour of the Abbey, but they had an unscheduled Verger meeting and all tours were cancelled that afternoon, so did audio tour instead - which was good, too. The coronation chair was gone for some repairs. They're really getting the Abbey "spiffed up" for the wedding.
Next on to Abbey Road studios and crosswalk. We had planned to stop here after B. Palace on the 1st day, but jet lag got the better of us. Someone on this forum (I think) mentioned a good Beatles gift shop at the nearby St. John's Wood tube station. We had trouble finding it - not inside the station. Finally found it hidden around to the right of the entrance at St. John's Wood. Picked up some good souvenirs here and headed home.
Have gone to and enjoyed the North Sea Fish Restaurant other 2 trips to London, so thought this was a good idea for some good fish n' chips that night. Very sorry to say we were all disappointed with the food. Place was very busy, service was good, the actual fish was very good, but very, very, greasy. Chips were not the same as before, either. There are new owners, so maybe they changed the recipes. Noticed all the locals were not getting their fish fried, but grilled. Even then, a lady at the next table sent her fish back, much later got it back, tried it and then wouldn't eat any more.
Felt better (from jet lag) after a good nights sleep. Got to Tower of London at 9 AM when it opened. Was able to go through the Jewel Tower when it was almost empty. Went back around and saw crown jewels from both sides - no line of people. Then had a great Yeoman Warder tour (Peter) and walked through White Tower exhibits.
Traveled on to Westminster Abbey, but stopped at The Feathers pub for lunch - pretty pub, unmemorable food except for the Eton Mess I split with DH for dessert. It was incredible! Layered sponge cake, meringue, thick cream and berries, with white chocolate shavings. Dining room upstairs, but we ate downstairs with everyone else. Planned on taking a Verger Tour of the Abbey, but they had an unscheduled Verger meeting and all tours were cancelled that afternoon, so did audio tour instead - which was good, too. The coronation chair was gone for some repairs. They're really getting the Abbey "spiffed up" for the wedding.
Next on to Abbey Road studios and crosswalk. We had planned to stop here after B. Palace on the 1st day, but jet lag got the better of us. Someone on this forum (I think) mentioned a good Beatles gift shop at the nearby St. John's Wood tube station. We had trouble finding it - not inside the station. Finally found it hidden around to the right of the entrance at St. John's Wood. Picked up some good souvenirs here and headed home.
Have gone to and enjoyed the North Sea Fish Restaurant other 2 trips to London, so thought this was a good idea for some good fish n' chips that night. Very sorry to say we were all disappointed with the food. Place was very busy, service was good, the actual fish was very good, but very, very, greasy. Chips were not the same as before, either. There are new owners, so maybe they changed the recipes. Noticed all the locals were not getting their fish fried, but grilled. Even then, a lady at the next table sent her fish back, much later got it back, tried it and then wouldn't eat any more.
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Apr 1st, 2011 | 04:22 PM
#8
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Joined: Nov 2008
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Day 3:
Had a good American breakfast at Balans West near our rental flat at Earls Court area. We missed our London Walk tour of Victoria & Albert Museum, so wandered around a little on our own, then left to make a 2:00 PM 90-min. tour at St. Paul's Cathedral. It was a really good tour. Bought a rosary in the gift shop for my grandson's 1st Communion later this month (& 2 more for the younger grandkids when they get that age).
We then headed to Borough Market. First walked into the Green Market area and saw the famous Kappacasein toasted cheese sandwiches. I intended on trying one, but was not hungry at all and was actually a little hot. It got very warm that day and I'm used to hot - I'm from Texas, but it felt warmer for being in the 60's than it does in Texas. I did buy some chocolate (that was delicious) and a sausage roll for breakfast the next morning - it was OK. I told the vendor about the sausage kolaches they sell in Tx and he was very interested in exactly what was in them.
Our flat was very near the famous Troubadour Cafe (Rod Stewart, Paul Simon, Bob Dylan, etc. played there in the 70's) and we went there for dinner. Unimposing place, but food was definitely a step-up from the gastro pubs. Probably the best food we had in London. DH had a rib-eye, BIL had a burger, and I had the "Pie & Mash" (A chicken pie with a thick flaky crust, wonderful mashed potatoes and mixed vegetables on the side). We all sampled an apple tart for dessert, but wasn't impressed.
Day 4:
London Walk's takes 2 Saturday tours of Bath every year, and we managed to be there for 1 of them. Met the guide at the Paddington station and took a 90 min. train ride to Bath. Got to see some of the beautiful English countryside on the way. London was actually having the largest demonstration (economic cuts) in it's history that day and visitors were told not to go to any large stores or banks, etc. (there was a little violence), so this really worked out great for us. It was a good, interesting walk, and the beautiful weather didn't hurt. The L. W. guide didn't mention the famous Sally Lunn shop, but I found it after we were given some free walk time. I bought a boxed bun to take back to Tx and some jars of jam (bad idea - I put the two 8 oz. jars in my carry-on with all the other souvenirs and it was searched for liquids - oops!, they were confiscated!). Made a sandwich with the bun (toasted first) on our first night home and it was really good.
Walked around the corner to the Courtfield pub on Earls Court Rd. for dinner. Crowded Sat. night, but they had 1 table open in the nice upstairs dining room. Good food - DH finally had some good fish n chips, I had the roast beef with Yorkshire Pudding, mash and veggies. BIL had a good steak.
Had a good American breakfast at Balans West near our rental flat at Earls Court area. We missed our London Walk tour of Victoria & Albert Museum, so wandered around a little on our own, then left to make a 2:00 PM 90-min. tour at St. Paul's Cathedral. It was a really good tour. Bought a rosary in the gift shop for my grandson's 1st Communion later this month (& 2 more for the younger grandkids when they get that age).
We then headed to Borough Market. First walked into the Green Market area and saw the famous Kappacasein toasted cheese sandwiches. I intended on trying one, but was not hungry at all and was actually a little hot. It got very warm that day and I'm used to hot - I'm from Texas, but it felt warmer for being in the 60's than it does in Texas. I did buy some chocolate (that was delicious) and a sausage roll for breakfast the next morning - it was OK. I told the vendor about the sausage kolaches they sell in Tx and he was very interested in exactly what was in them.
Our flat was very near the famous Troubadour Cafe (Rod Stewart, Paul Simon, Bob Dylan, etc. played there in the 70's) and we went there for dinner. Unimposing place, but food was definitely a step-up from the gastro pubs. Probably the best food we had in London. DH had a rib-eye, BIL had a burger, and I had the "Pie & Mash" (A chicken pie with a thick flaky crust, wonderful mashed potatoes and mixed vegetables on the side). We all sampled an apple tart for dessert, but wasn't impressed.
Day 4:
London Walk's takes 2 Saturday tours of Bath every year, and we managed to be there for 1 of them. Met the guide at the Paddington station and took a 90 min. train ride to Bath. Got to see some of the beautiful English countryside on the way. London was actually having the largest demonstration (economic cuts) in it's history that day and visitors were told not to go to any large stores or banks, etc. (there was a little violence), so this really worked out great for us. It was a good, interesting walk, and the beautiful weather didn't hurt. The L. W. guide didn't mention the famous Sally Lunn shop, but I found it after we were given some free walk time. I bought a boxed bun to take back to Tx and some jars of jam (bad idea - I put the two 8 oz. jars in my carry-on with all the other souvenirs and it was searched for liquids - oops!, they were confiscated!). Made a sandwich with the bun (toasted first) on our first night home and it was really good.
Walked around the corner to the Courtfield pub on Earls Court Rd. for dinner. Crowded Sat. night, but they had 1 table open in the nice upstairs dining room. Good food - DH finally had some good fish n chips, I had the roast beef with Yorkshire Pudding, mash and veggies. BIL had a good steak.
Apr 3rd, 2011 | 02:08 PM
#11
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Joined: Nov 2008
Posts: 208
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Day 5:
Just a note here: My husb. turned 60 this year and that qualified him for a "concession" or what we in the states call a senior citizen discount, at the Tower, St. Paul's and W. Abbey.
Headed to the Imperial War Museum. This was a lot more interesting that I expected - really enjoyed it. It is very well planned out so you don't get too tired reading/looking at the same thing for too long. Had to drag my husband out of there after 3 hours. They have a good gift shop, too. I am a book lover and bought a copy of, "The Spy's Bedside Book" by Hugh & Graham Greene. It first appeared in l957 and provoked a storm of interest - 100 copies were bought by East German Intelligence. Interesting stories by different authors - Ian Fleming and D. H. Lawrence being two of them.
On to Camden Lock Market - interesting, but crowded of course. Planned to take the canal cruise to the Little Venice area, but couldn't find the loading dock area, even after asking several locals. I had originally planned on taking the cruise from the Little Venice area to Camden Mkt. and those are the directions I had with me. Unfortunately, the Camden Town tube station closed and we had to walk another 10-15 min. to the Chalk Farm station - it was getting hot and we were tired, but Hampstead was just 2 stops away, so we decided to have an early dinner (no lunch that day) at Holly Bush pub. Made our way up a steep hidden staircase to find the pub and was able to get the last open booth. DH & BIL got the Sunday Roast - Half roast chicken with all the trimmings and I got the Cottage Pie - both were delicious. Pub was very quaint. Walked around Hampstead a little then returned home to rest up a few hours for Ceremony of the Keys that night.
The District line was out of order past the Westminster stop, the Circle line was closed on Sun. nights, as well as the Metropolitan line/Adgate stop (the next nearest station to the Tower), so we were able to take the Piccadilly line from Earls Court up to Green Park station, change to Jubilee line and then travel back down to the London Bridge station. From there it was a 15 min. walk to the Tower, which we actually enjoyed as we got to walk across the London Bridge at night and along the Thames to the Tower. It was worth the trouble, as we thoroughly enjoyed the Ceremony - impressive and so much atmosphere! The Yeoman Warder was the same as the one who gave our tour on Thursday - Peter. Thanks to all you Talk Forum posters who provided the information on this Ceremony and how to obtain the tickets.
Day 6:
First stop, Harrod's. Wall-to-wall people in the souvenir shop (got shoved around a little) but bought a few things here and in the Food Hall, then headed off for the British Museum.
My BIL was museum-ed out by now, but we urged him to at least see the Rosetta Stone and a few other items on the first floor. Then more souvenir shopping at shops around the Museum - found more desirable shops in this area on previous trip, and did again. Found a large store called, The Forbidden Plant, where my husb. found Dr. Who collectibles (just bought a T-shirt) and I found a British copy of the first Harry Potter book (had a diff. name than the US copy) for my grandson (who is a fan). Near this store, we also walked by the building that was used for the Gringott's Bank in Harry Potter movies.
On our Bath tour, we met another Texan on the tour who mentioned his fav. pub was Ye Olde Cheshire Cheese. I had read about this pub, of course, but it wasn't near any of our stops, so I had never been there. We made a point of going there for lunch - it was like stepping back in time inside this pub - took several pictures of the different rooms - so much history. Food was very good, too. Had the fish n chips and the 3-Cheese Macaroni (yummy!) and tried a Ginger & Butterscotch Pudding with custard sauce (good).
Then home to pack. Had to leave at 6:30 AM (or six half as the driver said) for the airport. Everything went smoothly (except for the confiscated jam-see Day 4) and the 9+ hour plane ride home wasn't bad at all. Really think I would prefer and all-day flight to London so I could sleep upon arrival, but that's not the way they schedule the direct flights from DFW.
Just a note here: My husb. turned 60 this year and that qualified him for a "concession" or what we in the states call a senior citizen discount, at the Tower, St. Paul's and W. Abbey.
Headed to the Imperial War Museum. This was a lot more interesting that I expected - really enjoyed it. It is very well planned out so you don't get too tired reading/looking at the same thing for too long. Had to drag my husband out of there after 3 hours. They have a good gift shop, too. I am a book lover and bought a copy of, "The Spy's Bedside Book" by Hugh & Graham Greene. It first appeared in l957 and provoked a storm of interest - 100 copies were bought by East German Intelligence. Interesting stories by different authors - Ian Fleming and D. H. Lawrence being two of them.
On to Camden Lock Market - interesting, but crowded of course. Planned to take the canal cruise to the Little Venice area, but couldn't find the loading dock area, even after asking several locals. I had originally planned on taking the cruise from the Little Venice area to Camden Mkt. and those are the directions I had with me. Unfortunately, the Camden Town tube station closed and we had to walk another 10-15 min. to the Chalk Farm station - it was getting hot and we were tired, but Hampstead was just 2 stops away, so we decided to have an early dinner (no lunch that day) at Holly Bush pub. Made our way up a steep hidden staircase to find the pub and was able to get the last open booth. DH & BIL got the Sunday Roast - Half roast chicken with all the trimmings and I got the Cottage Pie - both were delicious. Pub was very quaint. Walked around Hampstead a little then returned home to rest up a few hours for Ceremony of the Keys that night.
The District line was out of order past the Westminster stop, the Circle line was closed on Sun. nights, as well as the Metropolitan line/Adgate stop (the next nearest station to the Tower), so we were able to take the Piccadilly line from Earls Court up to Green Park station, change to Jubilee line and then travel back down to the London Bridge station. From there it was a 15 min. walk to the Tower, which we actually enjoyed as we got to walk across the London Bridge at night and along the Thames to the Tower. It was worth the trouble, as we thoroughly enjoyed the Ceremony - impressive and so much atmosphere! The Yeoman Warder was the same as the one who gave our tour on Thursday - Peter. Thanks to all you Talk Forum posters who provided the information on this Ceremony and how to obtain the tickets.
Day 6:
First stop, Harrod's. Wall-to-wall people in the souvenir shop (got shoved around a little) but bought a few things here and in the Food Hall, then headed off for the British Museum.
My BIL was museum-ed out by now, but we urged him to at least see the Rosetta Stone and a few other items on the first floor. Then more souvenir shopping at shops around the Museum - found more desirable shops in this area on previous trip, and did again. Found a large store called, The Forbidden Plant, where my husb. found Dr. Who collectibles (just bought a T-shirt) and I found a British copy of the first Harry Potter book (had a diff. name than the US copy) for my grandson (who is a fan). Near this store, we also walked by the building that was used for the Gringott's Bank in Harry Potter movies.
On our Bath tour, we met another Texan on the tour who mentioned his fav. pub was Ye Olde Cheshire Cheese. I had read about this pub, of course, but it wasn't near any of our stops, so I had never been there. We made a point of going there for lunch - it was like stepping back in time inside this pub - took several pictures of the different rooms - so much history. Food was very good, too. Had the fish n chips and the 3-Cheese Macaroni (yummy!) and tried a Ginger & Butterscotch Pudding with custard sauce (good).
Then home to pack. Had to leave at 6:30 AM (or six half as the driver said) for the airport. Everything went smoothly (except for the confiscated jam-see Day 4) and the 9+ hour plane ride home wasn't bad at all. Really think I would prefer and all-day flight to London so I could sleep upon arrival, but that's not the way they schedule the direct flights from DFW.
Apr 4th, 2011 | 08:00 AM
#13
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Joined: Nov 2008
Posts: 208
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Corrections to trip report:
"London Walk's takes 2 Saturday tours of Bath every year" - my BIL told me this, however, I just checked the website and there are at least 3 more walks in the coming months.
Found a large store called, The Forbidden Plant - typo, it's The Forbidden Planet.
"London Walk's takes 2 Saturday tours of Bath every year" - my BIL told me this, however, I just checked the website and there are at least 3 more walks in the coming months.
Found a large store called, The Forbidden Plant - typo, it's The Forbidden Planet.
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