Loire Valley Tips
Jan 23rd, 2005, 04:38 PM
#41
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Regards La Peniche barge/resto. Apparently has sunk as i went to the Blois tourist office web site and their seemingly comprehensive list of restaurants failed to mention any such place. Even if it were seasonal i think it'd be mentioned there.
Jan 24th, 2005, 10:24 AM
#44
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AMBOISE
Amboise is the perfect Loire base. A fairly small town yet one that has everything tourists need Amsboise is also located at the epicenter of the Loire's most popular sights- Chenonceau, Blois, Chambord, Azay-le-Rideau, Chinon, Chaumont, Usse are primo chateaus within a short drive from Amboise. For car-less folks Amboise has great train service and has mini-bus tours that take you to a few (half-day tours) or 3 or 4 castles in the same day: these reasonably priced tours can be booked thru hotel desks or at the local tourist office. (One that's been around for several years is ACCO-DISPO (sp?). Amboise also has a slew of hotels, including the Chateau de or du Pray, a mile from the town center - the rare castle-hotel easily accessible to rail travelers. (I don't recommend specific hotels because i don't know much about them, i only mention this one because of its proximity to town and the train station.
Amboise also offers a great castle, on the Loire (for a great view of its facade, cross the bridge in front of it to the island, where there is also a campground and youth hostel). the castle has an especially bloody history; in one famous rebellion many bodies were hung dangling over its facade. Rent a bike and cycle thru the forest to nearby Chenonceau or up the Loire to Chaumont, the castle with famous stables. In Amboise you have a pleasant shopping street, a street of troglodyte houses cached behind the castle and Leonardo da Vinci's house with nice gardens and a display of re-created Leonardo inventions as well as memorabilia. Leonardo was brought here by Francois I and died here - his tomb i believe, or at least his heart is in the parish church (often closed). Amboise has a lively riverfront market some days. The Loire is at its most captivating in Amboise as it is often a wide expanse of sand with a few rivulets of water running through it. Locals proudly point to the Loire being a 'wild' river as opposed to most in France that have been damned up for shipping needs. On the edge of Amboise is an unusual relic of centuries ago when one rich guy built a lavish palace which was later pulled down, leaving only the Pagoda de Chanteloup, a relic of times when infatuation with things Chinese raged, a lonely sentinel hinting at its past glory. Today you can climb the pagoda and there is a nice park. (About 2 miles out of town.) Amboise castle has one of the Loire's finest son-et-lumiere shows in summer at night - with a cast of hundreds of locals in old garb.
Amboise is the perfect Loire base. A fairly small town yet one that has everything tourists need Amsboise is also located at the epicenter of the Loire's most popular sights- Chenonceau, Blois, Chambord, Azay-le-Rideau, Chinon, Chaumont, Usse are primo chateaus within a short drive from Amboise. For car-less folks Amboise has great train service and has mini-bus tours that take you to a few (half-day tours) or 3 or 4 castles in the same day: these reasonably priced tours can be booked thru hotel desks or at the local tourist office. (One that's been around for several years is ACCO-DISPO (sp?). Amboise also has a slew of hotels, including the Chateau de or du Pray, a mile from the town center - the rare castle-hotel easily accessible to rail travelers. (I don't recommend specific hotels because i don't know much about them, i only mention this one because of its proximity to town and the train station.
Amboise also offers a great castle, on the Loire (for a great view of its facade, cross the bridge in front of it to the island, where there is also a campground and youth hostel). the castle has an especially bloody history; in one famous rebellion many bodies were hung dangling over its facade. Rent a bike and cycle thru the forest to nearby Chenonceau or up the Loire to Chaumont, the castle with famous stables. In Amboise you have a pleasant shopping street, a street of troglodyte houses cached behind the castle and Leonardo da Vinci's house with nice gardens and a display of re-created Leonardo inventions as well as memorabilia. Leonardo was brought here by Francois I and died here - his tomb i believe, or at least his heart is in the parish church (often closed). Amboise has a lively riverfront market some days. The Loire is at its most captivating in Amboise as it is often a wide expanse of sand with a few rivulets of water running through it. Locals proudly point to the Loire being a 'wild' river as opposed to most in France that have been damned up for shipping needs. On the edge of Amboise is an unusual relic of centuries ago when one rich guy built a lavish palace which was later pulled down, leaving only the Pagoda de Chanteloup, a relic of times when infatuation with things Chinese raged, a lonely sentinel hinting at its past glory. Today you can climb the pagoda and there is a nice park. (About 2 miles out of town.) Amboise castle has one of the Loire's finest son-et-lumiere shows in summer at night - with a cast of hundreds of locals in old garb.
Jan 24th, 2005, 10:30 AM
#45
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I have to go to Blois this week to renew my residency papers. I'll try to find the address I have for La Peniche restaurant and see if it's still there. It will be fun because I haven't explored Blois that much -- I just go there for administrative things since it's the "capital" of my region. I'll let you know what I find out. Hi Mimi!
Jan 24th, 2005, 12:06 PM
#46
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LOIRE BY BALLOON
A popular thing in recent years is to take a hot-air balloon trip over the Loire's fabled castles. These leave from several places as do airplane rides. Seeing the castles from above is a whole different treat!
A popular thing in recent years is to take a hot-air balloon trip over the Loire's fabled castles. These leave from several places as do airplane rides. Seeing the castles from above is a whole different treat!
Jan 24th, 2005, 05:02 PM
#47
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BEAUGENCY: If looking for a neat old town with its own neat old chateau, head for Beaugency, on the eastern part of the classic Loire Valley chateau country. This is a sleepy almost untouristed town that is the essence of an old French town - narrow streets lined by gray stucco facades. And the castle here, though few of the hoardes descending on the Loire's other more famous castles come here, is really neat. An older castle that was once a medieval fortress, in more ways a fortress, Beaugency's chateau is rather dreamy - especially since you're liable to be here almost by yourself. Beaugency is famous for its medieval Loire stone bridge, still a main artery over the river - it makes a quaint riverside scene. Beaugency has good rail service, being a stop on the Paris-Austerlitz-Les-Aubrais-Tours rail line. There are a few quiet hotels - if looking for a quiet yet cool Loire base, investigate Beaugency.
Footnote: Beaugency is at the center of French history. An old school rhyme still sung by local kids goes: "Orleans, Beaugency and Notre-Dame de Clery" referring to the time when the whole of the lands controlled by the king of France was limited to the area between these three neighboring towns. At one time this was France!
Footnote: Beaugency is at the center of French history. An old school rhyme still sung by local kids goes: "Orleans, Beaugency and Notre-Dame de Clery" referring to the time when the whole of the lands controlled by the king of France was limited to the area between these three neighboring towns. At one time this was France!
Jan 25th, 2005, 07:56 AM
#48
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MEUNG/SUR/LOIRE
If looking for an even more sleepy Loire backwater than Beaugency, opt for smaller Meung-sur-Loire, a similarly ancient non-gussied up town with its own captivating castle, one with dungeons and mysterious 'sousterrains' as well. On the Loire, Meung also has good rail serivce on the Paris-Les Aubrais-Tours rail line and a few hotels. Chambord, to many the Loire's finest castle, is a short drive from either Beaugency or Meung/s/Loire.
If looking for an even more sleepy Loire backwater than Beaugency, opt for smaller Meung-sur-Loire, a similarly ancient non-gussied up town with its own captivating castle, one with dungeons and mysterious 'sousterrains' as well. On the Loire, Meung also has good rail serivce on the Paris-Les Aubrais-Tours rail line and a few hotels. Chambord, to many the Loire's finest castle, is a short drive from either Beaugency or Meung/s/Loire.
Jan 25th, 2005, 10:10 AM
#49
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CLERY-ST-ANDRE
Just opposite Meung/s/Loire is the small town of Clery-St.Andre, an old village suffocated by a loud road but with one intriguing attraction, the local church whose importance at one time belies its present state as looking like yet another French parish church for here lies one of the kings of France, Louis XI, one of the few not resting in St Denis by Paris. the basilica also houses two old wooden statues of saints.
Just opposite Meung/s/Loire is the small town of Clery-St.Andre, an old village suffocated by a loud road but with one intriguing attraction, the local church whose importance at one time belies its present state as looking like yet another French parish church for here lies one of the kings of France, Louis XI, one of the few not resting in St Denis by Paris. the basilica also houses two old wooden statues of saints.
Jan 25th, 2005, 12:31 PM
#50
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BLOIS: Blois is a major Loire city and one that has its own storied castle, smack in the heart of town overlooking the Loire. The town of Blois is a thriving regional town with a large shopping district. Blois has many good hotels and restaurants and makes an idea base for the Loire. Near Blois is Chambord, to many the best Loire castle. If you car-less you can rail to Blois and then take special buses (in summer) to chambord, leaving time for a visit and then back. Mini-bus tours to other castles also serve Blois in season. Once known for its chocolate factory, sadly this place has melted away and no longer does its wondrous odors from the now shut plant permeate the town. blois also has a great cathedral.
Jan 26th, 2005, 08:48 AM
#51
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ORLEANS: Along with Tours the most important city on this part of the Loire, Orleans is a pleasant but unremarkable city from a tourist standpoint. I know Orleans extremely well, having spent weeks and weeks here babysitting my French son for several summers. Its only major sight is its fantastic cathedral, a wedding-cake Gothic style towers gargantuan edifice that is one of the biggest in France. Other than that the town, smashed to smitereens during WWII has been nicely rebuilt - a vibrant shopping and commercial town, again very pleasant. Could be used as a base for the Loire but is a bit too far removed from the likes of the Chinon-Azay-Fontevraud area. Those interested in flowers and landscaped parks, however may want to visit the Parc Floral, a few miles out of town in La Source - lots of flower beds, a mini steam train in a large park. To get to Orleans by train from Paris or Blois/Tours you may have to get off at Les Aubrais, Orleans main train station one mile from the deadend Orleans train station in the town center. Some trains serve Orleans but many only Aubrais, from which a navette (shuttle) train links with all trains at Les Aubrais.
Jan 27th, 2005, 12:15 PM
#52
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TOURS: the major city of the Tourraine and castle part of the Loire, Tours ('too-uur') s is not pronounced, though a fairly large urban area has a gem of an old town with the usual assortment of old churches, pleasant squares and stately shopping streets. Its old town has a great variety of restaurants and in good weather is animated. If staying elsewhere like Amboise, consider night tripping into Tours for a meal here. Most trains don't go into Tours itself, whose intown station is on a deadend spur line - many only serve St-Pierre-des-Corps 2 miles out; navette (shuttle) trains link most all trains there to Tour. thus those Tours lacks the small town ambience many look for in a Loire base, it deserves a good look at least for a few hours.
Jan 28th, 2005, 11:53 AM
#53
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CHENONCEAU
Chenonceau is the most famous Loire castle and certainly one of the most beautiful anyway, built straddling the lazy Cher River. The stomping grounds of Diane de Poitiers, a consort of the king, she was forced to down-trade it for Chaumont when she fell out of favor - i may have the story a bit wrong but that's the gist of it. During WWII folks escaped from Nazi France to Vichy 'Free' France by going thru the castle to cross the Cher to the Vichy controlled part of France. Trains take you right to the gate of the castle as the Chenonceaux rail station was recently relocated about a mile to now letting you off right in front of the castle. Thus a day trip by rail from Paris is possibe, though service is spotty on the St Pierre-des-Corps sideline so know schedules!
Chenonceau is the most famous Loire castle and certainly one of the most beautiful anyway, built straddling the lazy Cher River. The stomping grounds of Diane de Poitiers, a consort of the king, she was forced to down-trade it for Chaumont when she fell out of favor - i may have the story a bit wrong but that's the gist of it. During WWII folks escaped from Nazi France to Vichy 'Free' France by going thru the castle to cross the Cher to the Vichy controlled part of France. Trains take you right to the gate of the castle as the Chenonceaux rail station was recently relocated about a mile to now letting you off right in front of the castle. Thus a day trip by rail from Paris is possibe, though service is spotty on the St Pierre-des-Corps sideline so know schedules!
Jan 29th, 2005, 10:17 AM
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Hey PalQ, this is a great thread so I hope you don't mind me putting a plug on here for a great site I found on Virtual Tourist for Angers. This guy studied music in Angers for 6 mos so he knows it pretty well. The photos are fantastic & the commentary is lively - an excellent read! He's just getting started putting some stuff up so I'm sure there will be lots more great stuff within the next few weeks.
OH, and he's on the soundtrack for an indie film, pretty cool, titled <u>Kisses and Caroms</u>. I've never known anyone who's done a soundtrack before!
http://www.virtualtourist.com/m/67d10/21e7a/t/
OH, and he's on the soundtrack for an indie film, pretty cool, titled <u>Kisses and Caroms</u>. I've never known anyone who's done a soundtrack before!
http://www.virtualtourist.com/m/67d10/21e7a/t/
Jan 29th, 2005, 04:59 PM
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Angers was the first place I ever visited in France 30 years ago. It turned out to be one of our favorite places in Europe. We went there three times last year alone and plans are underway to buy an apartment there. We're going back there in June, partly to meet with some real estate people. It's a delightful city, mild climate, beautiful parks, lots of good "everyday" restaurants (no major destination restaurants that you'd travel miles out of the way for, but many places where you'd be happy to relax with some good food and wine), friendly people. And bonus points for very little smoking and strictly enforced rules about cleaning up after your dogs.
Jan 31st, 2005, 07:42 AM
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THE BEAUCE
If driving to the Loire from Paris or Chartres towards Blois you pass thru the heart of the Beauce, perhaps France's most unremarkable region - one that is more like Kansas than what you expect in France. This largely flat as a crepe region is one huge farm - mega farms in one of Europe's most productive agricultural areas. Blessed with an aquifer yielded lots of water for irrigation, the Beauce's fertile land yields great crop harvests. Boring to drive through perhaps but coming south from Chartres well out into the Beauce you have an unforgettable sight - that of Chartres Cathedral, high on its hill dominating the landscape from a vantage point of about 20 miles away. Imagine how medieval pilgrims, having trekked days to get here, must have salivated at this sight as their goal neared - being able to pray to the Our Lady of Chartres!
If driving to the Loire from Paris or Chartres towards Blois you pass thru the heart of the Beauce, perhaps France's most unremarkable region - one that is more like Kansas than what you expect in France. This largely flat as a crepe region is one huge farm - mega farms in one of Europe's most productive agricultural areas. Blessed with an aquifer yielded lots of water for irrigation, the Beauce's fertile land yields great crop harvests. Boring to drive through perhaps but coming south from Chartres well out into the Beauce you have an unforgettable sight - that of Chartres Cathedral, high on its hill dominating the landscape from a vantage point of about 20 miles away. Imagine how medieval pilgrims, having trekked days to get here, must have salivated at this sight as their goal neared - being able to pray to the Our Lady of Chartres!
Jan 31st, 2005, 12:55 PM
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LOCHES
Like someone said in an above post Loches is a nice diversion away from the Loire and the typical Loire castle. Dominating a neat old town on a lazy river, Loches is a chateau-fort - a brooding fortified castle that dates from medieval days. The castle is known for a replica of one King Looie's infamous 'Hanging Cages,' where enemies of the king were literally hung out in dark dungeons often for years on end. The cages were so small that the prisoner couldn't even stand i believe. Anyway, Loches is not to be overlooked!
Like someone said in an above post Loches is a nice diversion away from the Loire and the typical Loire castle. Dominating a neat old town on a lazy river, Loches is a chateau-fort - a brooding fortified castle that dates from medieval days. The castle is known for a replica of one King Looie's infamous 'Hanging Cages,' where enemies of the king were literally hung out in dark dungeons often for years on end. The cages were so small that the prisoner couldn't even stand i believe. Anyway, Loches is not to be overlooked!
