Loire Valley Tips
Jan 21st, 2005, 07:38 AM
#21
Original Poster
Join Date: Nov 2003
Posts: 5,641
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Camps- No most of the camps do not have bungalows or chalets to rent, though i havn't stayed in one in a few years now. Most Europeans 'camp' in campers not tents, though we were car-tent camping. Facilities vary, though all of course have showers, these can never be counted on to be great or always that clean. Camp bathrooms especially as the huge camper vans many folks use have their own WC. For one thing toilets often don't have seats and some may even have 'turkish' toilets, the good ole hole in an enamel basin with two pads for the feet. Bring your own tp - often not supplied. Many camps have 'piscines' or swimming pools, which appeals to kids. In July and August it's often tent-tente as few camps have deleanated spaces, you pitch where you can. If camping renting a camper eliminates the vagaries of bathrooms and poor weather that is not uncommon even in summer. Camps are rated by zero to three stars and this rating system, according to standards and amenities which must be in place, is a good guide to which camps are better. A great camp location wise is at Amboise as you can camp right opposite the chateau and see it regally lit up at night on the opposite bank of the Loire.
Jan 21st, 2005, 07:54 AM
#22
Join Date: Jan 2005
Posts: 283
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I tried both the phone numbers I have for La Peniche in Blois -- 02.54.74.37.23 and 02.54.56.89.65 -- and neither is in service now. So I assume the restaurant has closed. It is not listed in the latest phone book for the Loir-et-Cher department.
I moved to Saint-Aignan-sur-Cher from California about 18 months ago. I am either retired or unemployed now -- the situation is not clear. But I love it here. I lived in Paris and elsewhere for 10 years back in the 70s and 80s and speak French.
I moved to Saint-Aignan-sur-Cher from California about 18 months ago. I am either retired or unemployed now -- the situation is not clear. But I love it here. I lived in Paris and elsewhere for 10 years back in the 70s and 80s and speak French.
Jan 21st, 2005, 09:01 AM
#23
Original Poster
Join Date: Nov 2003
Posts: 5,641
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
WINE, CHEESE AND FUNGI
When motoring around the Tourraine, the area of the Loire around Tours, you'll be able to sample three local delicacies - wine, cheese and mushrooms. You'll see many 'Fromage' or 'Fromage de chevre' in front of farms and this means you can stop by and purchase cheese or goat cheese made on the premises. You can often see the cheese-making process and the cows or goats the cheese comes from. The Loire is one of the relatively few areas in France that produces wine (contrary to what i believed before going to France my first time vineyards do not blanket the country but are located in relatively small compact areas) and if you see a 'degustation' sign on the road it means the local 'vigneron' or wine maker is offering samples of their wine and of course the chance to buy direct from the proprietor. These at times like in Vouvray, Bourgueil or Montlouis, three prestigeous wine districts, are elaborate wine houses, in other cases they are from a small winery with a few vineyards. Bourgueil has an especially impressive grouping of wine houses sitting in a sea of vineyards. (Note that France's recently enacted crack-down on drinking and driving may prohibit liberal tasting for the driver; roadblocks sniff out drivers with an alcohol level that has legally been lowered so beware). As for mushrooms the limestone cliffs along the Loire near Saumur have excavated caves that house mushroom farms - again open for sampling and buying if there is a 'Champignons' sign out front. Keep your eyes peeled along the Loire routes for these wonderful tasting treats!
When motoring around the Tourraine, the area of the Loire around Tours, you'll be able to sample three local delicacies - wine, cheese and mushrooms. You'll see many 'Fromage' or 'Fromage de chevre' in front of farms and this means you can stop by and purchase cheese or goat cheese made on the premises. You can often see the cheese-making process and the cows or goats the cheese comes from. The Loire is one of the relatively few areas in France that produces wine (contrary to what i believed before going to France my first time vineyards do not blanket the country but are located in relatively small compact areas) and if you see a 'degustation' sign on the road it means the local 'vigneron' or wine maker is offering samples of their wine and of course the chance to buy direct from the proprietor. These at times like in Vouvray, Bourgueil or Montlouis, three prestigeous wine districts, are elaborate wine houses, in other cases they are from a small winery with a few vineyards. Bourgueil has an especially impressive grouping of wine houses sitting in a sea of vineyards. (Note that France's recently enacted crack-down on drinking and driving may prohibit liberal tasting for the driver; roadblocks sniff out drivers with an alcohol level that has legally been lowered so beware). As for mushrooms the limestone cliffs along the Loire near Saumur have excavated caves that house mushroom farms - again open for sampling and buying if there is a 'Champignons' sign out front. Keep your eyes peeled along the Loire routes for these wonderful tasting treats!
Jan 21st, 2005, 09:27 AM
#24
Join Date: Aug 2003
Posts: 60
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
To PalQ:
Related question-if we are planning on going by train to Amboise, would you recommend going to Blois via the non-TGV train and then on to Amboise or does one have to go through St. Pierre des Corps via the TGV?
Related question-if we are planning on going by train to Amboise, would you recommend going to Blois via the non-TGV train and then on to Amboise or does one have to go through St. Pierre des Corps via the TGV?
Jan 21st, 2005, 09:51 AM
#25
Original Poster
Join Date: Nov 2003
Posts: 5,641
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
You could go either way if you're flexible on time. If you have to go at a specific time one route may be quicker than the other. The Austerlitz-Blois-Amboise-Tours route has direct trains to Amboise from Paris that take about 2 hours and there is pretty much hourly service. If you go via St-Pierre-d-Corps you have to change and depending on schedules you may not get to Amboise any quicker, though you could. (There are some 2-hr gaps between trains to Amboise from St PdCorps). Blois route is also cheaper if buying tickets. You also do not need reservations on the Paris-Austerlitz-Blois-Amboise route while on TGVs via St P d Corps you do so you can't just hop on the train as you can via Austerlitz line. So some folks rather have direct train, only possible via Blois, others prefer the thrill of up to 185 mph TGVs then changing, which optimally will be also quicker but not by much. The Amboise train station is about a half-mile from town centre, on the opposite bank of the Loire.
Jan 21st, 2005, 11:01 AM
#26
Join Date: Aug 2003
Posts: 1,401
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
CKENB: Too bad about La Peniche. Do you think they may be closed because it is winter since they are located on a barge on the river? Maybe they are a seasonal (spring and summer) business. Perhaps checking with the Blois tourist office might help...
Jan 21st, 2005, 12:04 PM
#27
Original Poster
Join Date: Nov 2003
Posts: 5,641
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Son Et Lumiere Shows:
As talked of in above posts are true spectacles with literally a cast of hundreds of locals clad in old garb - usually re-creating some bloody even in the castle's history - with flourishes of buglers, drums and multi-media laser light shows. I've been to three and even if you don't speak French these are a joy; there may be a printed summation in English. but most also have English 'seances'. In summer these start rather late as they are after dark so not good for day trippers. Good ones are at Chambord, Amboise and Azay-le-Rideau though most major castles have these money-makers. In the words of Ed Sullivan: a very good shew!
As talked of in above posts are true spectacles with literally a cast of hundreds of locals clad in old garb - usually re-creating some bloody even in the castle's history - with flourishes of buglers, drums and multi-media laser light shows. I've been to three and even if you don't speak French these are a joy; there may be a printed summation in English. but most also have English 'seances'. In summer these start rather late as they are after dark so not good for day trippers. Good ones are at Chambord, Amboise and Azay-le-Rideau though most major castles have these money-makers. In the words of Ed Sullivan: a very good shew!
Jan 21st, 2005, 03:21 PM
#28
Original Poster
Join Date: Nov 2003
Posts: 5,641
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
TROGLODYTES
At a few places the Loire is bordered by small limestone cliffs. Out of this limestone were built many of the region's buildings so that many older buildings have a uniform cream colored look to them. And once the stones were excavated the new caves made perfect housing. Troglodytes moved in and have for centuries lived in cave dwellings in places along the river. Amboise has a nifty grouping of such houses that few people stumble on - they're right south of the castle, lining a side street. Some of the region's caves have been turned into mushroom farms and others into wine curing rooms - idea for both endeavors because of their constant temperature and humidity.
Does anyone know of a troglodyte Loire hotel or B&B - must be at least a few chambre d'Hotes???
At a few places the Loire is bordered by small limestone cliffs. Out of this limestone were built many of the region's buildings so that many older buildings have a uniform cream colored look to them. And once the stones were excavated the new caves made perfect housing. Troglodytes moved in and have for centuries lived in cave dwellings in places along the river. Amboise has a nifty grouping of such houses that few people stumble on - they're right south of the castle, lining a side street. Some of the region's caves have been turned into mushroom farms and others into wine curing rooms - idea for both endeavors because of their constant temperature and humidity.
Does anyone know of a troglodyte Loire hotel or B&B - must be at least a few chambre d'Hotes???
Jan 21st, 2005, 03:57 PM
#29
Join Date: Jan 2003
Posts: 1,940
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Pal, I am enjoying your suggestions. We will be near Angers and Nantes for 4 days in July visiting friends. We stayed with them briefly last year and saw Fontvraud. We will want to do some day trips from their place. One day they are going to take us to Puy du Fou. I know we will spend a day in Angers. I am thinking about Chinon & Azay le Rideau. Two years ago, we spent time in the Eastern Loire area and saw chateaus there. What would you suggest?
Jan 21st, 2005, 05:06 PM
#30
Original Poster
Join Date: Nov 2003
Posts: 5,641
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Yes Azay-le-Rideau is my favorite Loire castle and is in a sweet small town. Chinon is my favorite Loire city. I'll go into these more in my next posts. Puy du Fou - I'm not really knowing much about that - is it a ruined castle? I think they have an acclaimed sound and light show? Tell me more. I see on my Michelin map there is a steam train running to Puy du Fou - i'm a rail buff do you know anything about that? Also what did you think of Fontevraud Abbey, which i think is rather overlooked in the Loire because of its fantastic fussilade of famous castles - it seemed to me not only a neat sight but one that was mesmerizing because of the medieval monastic lifestyle practiced here. sincerely, Palenque Bob
Jan 22nd, 2005, 04:57 AM
#31
Join Date: Jul 2003
Posts: 2,707
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I've enjoyed reading this thread and appreciate the effort that you (PalQ) have put in. Now I'd like to chip in, adding that I too found Fontrevaud, Chinon and Azay to be amongst the best of the Loire attractions.
We spent five nights at Elizabeth Minier's charming B&B near Azay (in Cheille) and would like to recommend it as a base to explore the area...
http://www.lagrangebleue.net/
We spent five nights at Elizabeth Minier's charming B&B near Azay (in Cheille) and would like to recommend it as a base to explore the area...
http://www.lagrangebleue.net/
Jan 22nd, 2005, 05:19 AM
#32
Join Date: Jan 2003
Posts: 1,940
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Hi Pal, I loved Fontevraud. We spent the better part of an afternoon there with our friend and it is amazing. She knows some English, but we missed hearing the English tour and we are seriously thinking about returning this summer just so we can learn more about the Abbaye.
What I know about Puy du Fou is that it is an all day spectacle depicting life and history from the area. I think it is only in the summer and has a son et lumiere show at night. I will have to let you know what I think of it after this summer.
Sorry, but I don't know a thing about the trains.
I am eager to read more of your tips on the Loire!
What I know about Puy du Fou is that it is an all day spectacle depicting life and history from the area. I think it is only in the summer and has a son et lumiere show at night. I will have to let you know what I think of it after this summer.
Sorry, but I don't know a thing about the trains.
I am eager to read more of your tips on the Loire!
Jan 22nd, 2005, 03:55 PM
#33
Original Poster
Join Date: Nov 2003
Posts: 5,641
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Wren, tuck: Thanks for your nice comments.
Azay-le-Rideau is my favorite castle, and this is not to say that it's the finest Loire castle, a title usually bestowed on either Chenonceau or Chambord. But it just looks so neat, the castle of your dreams on the languid Indre River surrounded by a waterful moat. Plus the usual gardens and period rooms. I saw the sound and light show here and it was spectacular. Plus the small but vibrant town of Azay-le-Rideau is also very nice. Chinon is my favorite Tourraine town - it lovingly sits on the Vienne River and has a hilltop largely ruined fortress that is so romantic looking. Chinon also seems so bright, i think from the bright limestone Loire stones the town seems uniformly fabricated out of. Neat old streets, lots of restaurants, cafes and also some wine tastings. Chinon wine is of high repute. A novel thing to do from Chinon is to take the steam train ('train a vapeur') from Chinon to Richelieu - an oldtime rail ride throught the Tourraine farmland. Richelieu is a small town and very unique. The town was built centuries ago all at once i believe and is a large rectangle - with exterior walls next to canals - inside this rectangle is a universally old town with a gride of straight streets. I forget the history of the town and its connection with the notorious Cardinal Richelieu, but it's intriguing. Richelieu, the town, is something else. It does attract tourists but mainly French as it is not all that publicized. On your way to Chinon from Angers you pass thru Saumur, with its own unique castle fronting the Loire. A nice regional town, Saumur is known for its mushroom caves, with tastings announced by a 'champignons' sign out front, which are hollowed out of the limestone cliffs along the Loire. You'll see some troglodyte houses each as well. You could do Chinon and Azay in one day as the two are 18 miles apart on a straight-as-an-arrow road through a forest. Coming back from Azay you can take the side road along the Loire that goes by Usse, yet another fab castle, which may be called the Sleeping Beauty castle because it was a model for the castle in the Disney animated film, but i'm not positive about that. This road, one of the most scenic in the Loire, finally confronts the modern world when it comes to one of France's many nuclear energy plants, on the Loire, where you rejoin the main road to Saumer/Angers. Bourgueil and its vineyards could also be hit on your return from Azay to Angers.
Azay-le-Rideau is my favorite castle, and this is not to say that it's the finest Loire castle, a title usually bestowed on either Chenonceau or Chambord. But it just looks so neat, the castle of your dreams on the languid Indre River surrounded by a waterful moat. Plus the usual gardens and period rooms. I saw the sound and light show here and it was spectacular. Plus the small but vibrant town of Azay-le-Rideau is also very nice. Chinon is my favorite Tourraine town - it lovingly sits on the Vienne River and has a hilltop largely ruined fortress that is so romantic looking. Chinon also seems so bright, i think from the bright limestone Loire stones the town seems uniformly fabricated out of. Neat old streets, lots of restaurants, cafes and also some wine tastings. Chinon wine is of high repute. A novel thing to do from Chinon is to take the steam train ('train a vapeur') from Chinon to Richelieu - an oldtime rail ride throught the Tourraine farmland. Richelieu is a small town and very unique. The town was built centuries ago all at once i believe and is a large rectangle - with exterior walls next to canals - inside this rectangle is a universally old town with a gride of straight streets. I forget the history of the town and its connection with the notorious Cardinal Richelieu, but it's intriguing. Richelieu, the town, is something else. It does attract tourists but mainly French as it is not all that publicized. On your way to Chinon from Angers you pass thru Saumur, with its own unique castle fronting the Loire. A nice regional town, Saumur is known for its mushroom caves, with tastings announced by a 'champignons' sign out front, which are hollowed out of the limestone cliffs along the Loire. You'll see some troglodyte houses each as well. You could do Chinon and Azay in one day as the two are 18 miles apart on a straight-as-an-arrow road through a forest. Coming back from Azay you can take the side road along the Loire that goes by Usse, yet another fab castle, which may be called the Sleeping Beauty castle because it was a model for the castle in the Disney animated film, but i'm not positive about that. This road, one of the most scenic in the Loire, finally confronts the modern world when it comes to one of France's many nuclear energy plants, on the Loire, where you rejoin the main road to Saumer/Angers. Bourgueil and its vineyards could also be hit on your return from Azay to Angers.
Jan 22nd, 2005, 05:28 PM
#34
Join Date: Dec 2003
Posts: 835
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Oh, Pal! Thanks for posting this! I was in Tours for six weeks this spring and I your posts are just like reliving that time for me. I wish I could move there and stay forever!
ckenb, I am too envious of you for words! How on earth did you manage a move from California to the area? Email me if you'd like:
[email protected]
ckenb, I am too envious of you for words! How on earth did you manage a move from California to the area? Email me if you'd like:
[email protected]
Jan 23rd, 2005, 05:52 AM
#39
Join Date: Jul 2003
Posts: 2,707
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
To me, a castle (or a chateau) in ruins can often be of more interest than one that’s intact – especially when there’s a lot of history involved. That certainly applies to the one at Chinon…from England’s Henry II, who built it and died there to Joan of Arc, who pursued the yet uncrowned Charles VII there. Seeing those giant fireplaces in “rooms” now open to the sky was awesome!
Another gem is Loches – again where Joan confronted Charles – a town still of a medieval feel and two castles, with a fortress built by the notorious Foulques Nerra in the 10thC and the other one where Charles set up his court.
Also worth mentioning is the hilltop town (rare if not unique in the Loire region) of Montreuil-Bellay that features the ruins of another Foulques Nerra fortress.
Another gem is Loches – again where Joan confronted Charles – a town still of a medieval feel and two castles, with a fortress built by the notorious Foulques Nerra in the 10thC and the other one where Charles set up his court.
Also worth mentioning is the hilltop town (rare if not unique in the Loire region) of Montreuil-Bellay that features the ruins of another Foulques Nerra fortress.
Jan 23rd, 2005, 06:02 AM
#40
Join Date: Jul 2003
Posts: 2,707
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
P.S. I meant to comment on Richelieu.
The Cardinal built his chateau there (since destroyed) and, in an attempt at "town planning", created the town. It's laid out geometrically and therefore it's quite dull IMO. Also a bit seedy, I guess because it has no raison d'etre.
The Cardinal built his chateau there (since destroyed) and, in an attempt at "town planning", created the town. It's laid out geometrically and therefore it's quite dull IMO. Also a bit seedy, I guess because it has no raison d'etre.
