AKR1

We are going to the Loire valley this weekend for a week and then onto Paris for another week with our children (two families, a total of four adults and four kids age 8 to 13); the adults have been to France a few times but never to the Loire and this is the first time in France for the kids although they have traveled to Europe before. We have rented a villa in Saumur and an apartment in Paris. I would appreciate your advice on a few general issues (yes I have searched the board and read up on your wonderful responses):

1. We are renting a car at CDG after an overnight flight from New York and I understand it’s about a 3.5-hour drive to Saumur. Any pointers on getting out of Paris and the route south-west at around noon on Saturday. I have asked for English GPS in the cars and have a good map. Any recommendations for a nice place en-route for a quick bite and a break.

2. I understand Saumur is a little too west in the Loire and an ideal plan would have been to have stayed half the time in the western Loire and the other half in the east (such as Amboise) but the logistics did not work out. We plan to do say 5 chateaux, Azay Le Rideau (close to Saumur),Villandry, Chenonceau, Chambord, Cheverny (for the hound feedings which I think the kids will enjoy) and the Da Vinci house near Amboise. Given the logistics off getting to the eastern Loire from Saumur I think we should make just two day trips and try to do 2 or even 3 chateaux’s on each of those days. What would be the driving time from Saumur to the eastern châteaux’s? We can always go to the places close to Saumur anytime.

Also, the plan is to one evening take in a sound and light show at Azay, one morning go ballooning (with France- Balloons, still debating the $1k cost per family given the kids have done ballooning in Napa before), go biking near Saumur, canoe in the Loire (our house is right on the banks of the river), see the tank museum in Saumur, take the kids riding at the equestrian place in town (world famous I am told), do a couple of fine meals and some wine tastings in the area.

Any other specific recommendations, especially for the kids; I am concerned they might get "châteauxed- out". Is the Atlantic coast too far for a day’s drive?

3. Next onto Paris. We have rented a four-bedroom apartment in the Opera district (9th); I would have preferred to be in another location but the logistics of getting a large apartment without totally breaking the bank turned out to be too hard. We have hired a guide for 3 half days to take us through the Louvre and Musey D’Orsay and to do a walking tour one morning. I believe the guide will let us minimize lines in the museums and allow time to see the highlights before the kids run out of patience ( max. 4 hours). Any strategies for minimizing the lines at the Eiffel Tower? We have a number of ideas for Paris learned from all your wonderful posts, its almost too overwhelming. A few questions on practical stuff. Should we be buying museum passes, which I understand are only good on consecutive days, given we only plan to visit two museums this trip. Also, the Paris subway, which I guess we will be using quite a lot. Are there any multi-day passes or should be stick to multi-packs of single tickets? Any specific dining recommendations in the Opera area where we can take the kids.

Also, we plan to spend 2 days out of the city. One morning in the Champagne region (Epernay) as we have one member in our party who is in the wine business and has arranged a private tour of a famous place. We plan to rent a car as from what I can gather the train logistics of getting to Epernay from Paris are not very efficient. We hope to be back in Paris late afternoon.

Then, one day in Giverney and Versailles. I realize its excessive but we want to go to both places and really do not want to spend another day outside the city. The plan is to again rent cars and leave by 7 am (I understand the 8 am train to Giverney is efficient but given the desire to do Versailles on the way back think the car will offer the most flexibility). I am a little concerned that we will end up getting tired and not doing justice to Versailles but hopefully this can be accomplished. Any specific advice on driving time and whether taking a train is realistic at all (on the way back to Versailles?). I know Versailles back to Paris works well on the train.

4. We have credit cards (Amex and Mastercard) and bank ATM cards and plan to carry bank checks and some US dollars (but not too much). Our ATM cards definitely work in Europe but I am a little concerned reading on this board about chip based bank cards with special pins in France and US issued cards not working at gas stations etc., but I am assuming if we were fine in several European cities the last few years, France should be OK.

Finally any other general advice will be most appreciated. Thanks very much.

PalQ

Check out the mushroom growing caves and troglydyte houses in the Saumur area. Look for 'champignons' signs along the road along the Loire - the limestone mini-cliffs have been hewn out and once were used as houses and now mushroom growing caves you can tour. Some hold Saumur wine. Some troglydyte houses still exist. Bourgeuil, near Saumur is one of the Loire's finest wine areas and the town has several nice wineries to tour.
The Loire distances are really that great and except for Chambord all are relatively easy to reach. For chambord you could blast up the autoroute to Blois and then take regular roads to nearby Chambord.
Giverny closed on Mondays as is Versailles i believe. But the two aren't that far apart by road. Lines can be long at giverny so either arrive early or later in the day when they have abated. Ditto unfortunately for Versailles - a museum pass however will take you to the front of the lines.
there's not much of anything on the autoroute Paris to Saumur - that is right on or near the autoroute which runs well away from cities. Blois would make a nice stop near the autoroute.
How about EuroDisney for the kids!

JulieVikmanis

You have a well thought out plan. The addition of troglodyte caves is a good suggestion. I'm sure Pal meant to say that the distances are NOT that great. Which is true from my recent experience. This should be very doable. It's ambitious not because of the logistics of what you're attempting, but because of the volume and diversity of your party. If you can control the people (or if they can control themselves and stay on schedule) it should work very well. The hardest part will probably be the drive down. I know it was a time consumer for us. I hope someone with better recollection for roads can give you some definite help on getting from CDG through the maze of Paris and environs to A11-E50. When we have gone to the Loire, we usually try to bust up the trip with a jaunt to the Atlantic, specifically the Ile de Re, but we stay at least a couple of days to make the drive worthwhile. With all the alternatives to chateaux that you've planned, I'd advise against doing that for your trip. And certainly not by trying to go to the Atlantic and back as a day trip. Enjoy. I hope you and your family have a wonderful time. If you don't, it won't be for lack of a well-developed plan.

Danna

I can help with a couple of your questions. The Carte Musee (museum pass) is best for bypassing the lines. We visited the Musee Orsay on Thursday evening and were glad for that feature. Secondly, depending on when you will arrive in Paris, the Carte Orange is good for unlimited metro AND bus travel from Monday to Sunday. It worked well for our trip then we bought the 10 ticket packets for our last days.

Have Fun!

PalQ

Yes, NOT that great are the distances in the Loire area of the great chateaux. thanks julie for the correction.
As for getting out of CDG it matters on the day of the week and time of day. Weekends are usually a snap compared to weekdays when the autoroutes from CDG and the ones around Paris can be backed up- especially in morning and afternoon rush hours.
But you want to take the autoroutes to the Peripherique (a kind of autoroute) that goes around Paris' east side then south side to the autoroute exit for Tours.

Laidback

Congratulations on a well thought out itinerary. One thing my 3 grandchildren enjoyed on our trip to the Loire Valley was the Chateaux in miniature http://www.mini-chateaux.com/ near Amboise. It really helps visualize the entire area. Their favorite chateau was the Sleeping Beauty at Ussé.

FauxSteMarie

If the kids get bored with doing chateaux, take them to Futuroscope. It is an amusement park but with a lot of computer special effects. You ALL will love it.

Futuroscope is near Poitiers and is well marked off the main autoroute from the Loire south toward Bordeaux.

Futuroscope is much more interesting than Disney, by the way. There was some talk of building a clone near Seattle several years ago, but nothing happened (and Seattle does get a lot of rain).

I went to Futuroscope without kids (mine are now almost 27 & 25 and mercifully on their own) and absolutely loved it. You do not have to speak French to enjoy everything. There are English language translation headsets as needed.

Have fun!

RonZ

Here's a handy web site:

http://perso.orange.fr/guillonniere/loirevalley/

Mappy and/or viamichelin are handy for determining driving routes, and they display signs you will be looking for on the autoroutres.

Saumur to Chenonceau is about 100km. There is a big animal park near there, the Zoo Park de Beauval.

AKR1

Thanks very much for all your responses. I do appreciate your comments.

I was wondering if anyone had comments on my Paris questions and if you agree a car is the way to go for day our trips out of town. Also, has anyone done the sound and light show at Azay and also any advice on ballooning in the Loire. We would definitely do it but the $2,000 for the eight of us seems very expensive. Is it worth it??

Back to Paris, any insights on the Opera district; is it quite central in terms of walking or talking the tube to to the major sights. Any pointers on minimizing the line for the Eiffel tower.

The adults are foodies who are used to eating at serious places. On this trip my concern is the children, we don't have infra-structure to leave them while we partake in fine dining. Any compromises (they are also used to, but probably don't particularly appreciate, eating at serious restaurants).

Once again thanks very much for your kind assistance.

Dave_in_Paris

"Any strategies for minimizing the lines at the Eiffel Tower?"

If you'd be content with the second floor, have lunch at the Jules Verne. Private elevator, no line, impeccable service and good food.

msm4

Another thought about lines at the Eiffel Tower: get up early and be there 20 or so minutes before it opens. In our experience, Paris wakes up slowly (and when dinner the night before starting at 8 and ending who knows when this makes sense)and if you can drag yourselves out of bed on the early side you can beat the rush at most museums and sites.

Bon voyage!

msm4

JulieVikmanis

On the dining thing, you could take turns and either have one adult take the kids each night so the other three can eat "adult" or even have one couple take the kids every other night or so, so that the other can dine peacefully and more upscale.

I guess I think that the price of lunch for 8 at the Jules Verne would be a pretty high price to pay to evade the line at the Eifel Tower. It's good and a beautiful experience but a pricey one especially to include 8 year olds.

We try so hard to avoid any possibility of driving in Paris, that my best advice would be to try to work out train arrangements for your group to go to Epernay, Giverny and Versailles. Though the latter two are in the same general direction I'd guess you'd have to take the RER to Versailles early in the morning, return to Paris and then go to Gare St. Lazare to take the train to Vernon and then catch taxis to Giverny. I'd start the planning with what time trains run to and from Giverny since they're less frequent than RER to Versailles.

RosieinOz

Hi AKR1
I've not been to Paris yet(next year in the planning!) but a friend said to go to the first level where there is a ticket office for the trip up and less crowds. Does anyone know if this is correct?
Have a great trip!
Rosie

RosieinOz

That the first floor of the Eiffel Tower!
What is happening to this site???I had to rewrite my messages ...they keep getting lost!
Rosie

Michel_Paris

Hi AKR1,
I've done the light show at Chambord, Blois, Azay le Rideau, Le Lude..., but a few year's back.

The one at Le Lude was interting since it involved actors riding across field on horseback, much action. From what I remember, these will all be in French (I'm bilingual, so it did not matter to me). The shows usually have a "slide" (poor word, much better that just that!) show on the side of the chateau, with music and a narrator telling a story about the history of the place.

I've driven in Paris, and it can be interesting. I'm wondering if taking the train may not be a better idea. The system is quite efficient, with many departures. Have you checked the SNCF site to see if their schedule works for you? I've done a day trip to Reims quite easily (near Epernay) and have a good choice of times.

I'll check my Loire notes to see what else I saw there...

Hope these tidbits help.
Mike

JeffreyJ

Another strategy to minimize the lines at the Tower is to simply take the stairs...never many folks in line for THAT.

If you take it easy and take your time it's not that hard. As a bonus, one gets the sense of having really earned a nice lunch!

AKR1

Thanks very much to all of you that took the time to post. Much obliged!!