Living in Germany
#1
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Joined: Dec 2004
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Living in Germany
I am exploring the possibility of obtaining a civil service job (GS-11 to GS-13) with the USG and moving to Germany. Looking at similiar openings in Heidelburg, Bamburg, and Darmstadt.
Would love some rants or raves from those who have lived or visited those areas.
I'd try to live on the local economy and not seek government quarters. Have only visited southern Germany.
I'm not a big city person nor do I want to live in too rural an area. Hobbies are hiking (I heard the Germans are big into Volksmarching), swimming, photography, biking, and rambling around vineyards, bookstores, old churches and castles.
Having access to good rail connections would be a big plus.
Even though I have heard good things about it, my initial impression was that Bamburg might be too small a city or too isolated.
Would love some rants or raves from those who have lived or visited those areas.
I'd try to live on the local economy and not seek government quarters. Have only visited southern Germany.
I'm not a big city person nor do I want to live in too rural an area. Hobbies are hiking (I heard the Germans are big into Volksmarching), swimming, photography, biking, and rambling around vineyards, bookstores, old churches and castles.
Having access to good rail connections would be a big plus.
Even though I have heard good things about it, my initial impression was that Bamburg might be too small a city or too isolated.
#2
Joined: Nov 2003
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depends what you call small. Bamberg is a regional town with i think a large university. good rail links and not in huge urban conurbation as are Heidelberg and especially Darmstadt. Bamburg is one of Germany's nicest cities, inordinate amount of old buildings, churches, etc., a rarity for war-torn Germany. Heidelberg as well exceptional for Germany - Heidelberg however is overrun with Americans due to the military HQs we have there - as the word goes, americans selected Heidelberg for their postWWII HQ because it was one of the few German towns not desecrated by war but is largely intact and a lovely city in a lovely setting with great walks right from town (Philosphers' Way, par example) I can't think of much to recommend Darmstadt but even these type of rebuilt industrial towns seem to be very pleasant.
#4

Joined: Feb 2003
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Darmstadt !! Had the good fortune to live there years ago and would live there again in a heartbeat. Size, location, activities...are assets. Search this site-a few Darmstadt related messages. We generally fly into Frankfurt and our first stop is Darmstadt.
#5
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#6
Joined: Jan 2004
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By working for the US government you will not be living on the local economy, nor would you want to. Before you go, visit
www.enjoy-europe.com/hte/chap22/living.htm for insight on living in Europe.
For rail connections get a copy of the Thomas Cook European Timetable at
http://www.thomascooktimetables.com/...amp;book_id=44
With the excellent train connections in Germany that can take you anywhere on the continent in your spare time, you would probably be better off living within an easy commute to your office.
#7
Joined: Jan 2003
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Northshore - We moved back to the States in January after spending almost four years near Ramstein and Landstuhl. My husband was a GS-11, then a GS-13 employee. I loved every minute of it, and if we had not had such problems with the renters in our beloved house here, I would have done everything I could to stay. In fact, they offered us another job there last week and it was with tears that we turned it down.
In a way, as a civilian employee, we had the best of both worlds. The gov't paid our housing and utilities (civilian employees are not allowed to live on base), so we lived in a wonderful converted barn in a small village 20 minutes from Ramstein. We could shop for groceries at the commissaries and other items at the BX's, but often did our shopping on the economy instead. Access to US medical facilites was great, as well as (and this was a big one) gas coupons that allowed us to buy gas at prices comparable to those in the States. The gov't will pay to ship one car over, and one car back, although we bought a Volvo while there and Volvo shipped it for free for us (within five years of purchase). Don't forget too, that all of your moving expenses are paid for.
Anyone who says that you can't experience living the "German way of life" while there as a U.S. Gov't employee just hasn't tried it lately. If we had wanted, we could have gone onto base for nothing besides work. We traveled most weekends, participated in local festivals, our son went to German kindergarten for two years, and I even sold bratwurst and gluhwein at the local potato fest! Of course, most Americans there find a happy medium and mix the two cultures to the extent of comfort.
But, it's not all gluhwein and bratwurst. The dollar being low right now does make a difference, especially when you first arrive and have to set up household. You'll need several thousand dollars up front for deposits, housing, etc. but most of that will eventually be reimbursed. You'll need to buy new phones, transformers, a few appliances that you use so frequently that it's not worth using a transformer, and a rental car until yours arrives from the U.S. (about $500 for a month). If you have a good sponsor, they can point you toward the thrift stores for transformers, etc. since there are always people going home and leaving those things behind. Another issue that has become more enforced since we moved there is the "five year rule". It used to be that GS employees could go there and basically homestead, but the majority now need to return home after five years. That can be an issue if there are no GS jobs where you want to live (which is how my husband ended up in Iraq. He's home in just 11 more days though
.
For us and most of our friends there, it was a huge hassle to pack up everything and move, but one that is worth doing ten times over. It was the opportunity of a lifetime for us and I wouldn't hesitate to recommend it to absolutely anyone. If you do decide to go, feel free to contact me at [email protected] and I can help you with some of the finer points of transferring over there. Take care and go for it!!!
In a way, as a civilian employee, we had the best of both worlds. The gov't paid our housing and utilities (civilian employees are not allowed to live on base), so we lived in a wonderful converted barn in a small village 20 minutes from Ramstein. We could shop for groceries at the commissaries and other items at the BX's, but often did our shopping on the economy instead. Access to US medical facilites was great, as well as (and this was a big one) gas coupons that allowed us to buy gas at prices comparable to those in the States. The gov't will pay to ship one car over, and one car back, although we bought a Volvo while there and Volvo shipped it for free for us (within five years of purchase). Don't forget too, that all of your moving expenses are paid for.
Anyone who says that you can't experience living the "German way of life" while there as a U.S. Gov't employee just hasn't tried it lately. If we had wanted, we could have gone onto base for nothing besides work. We traveled most weekends, participated in local festivals, our son went to German kindergarten for two years, and I even sold bratwurst and gluhwein at the local potato fest! Of course, most Americans there find a happy medium and mix the two cultures to the extent of comfort.
But, it's not all gluhwein and bratwurst. The dollar being low right now does make a difference, especially when you first arrive and have to set up household. You'll need several thousand dollars up front for deposits, housing, etc. but most of that will eventually be reimbursed. You'll need to buy new phones, transformers, a few appliances that you use so frequently that it's not worth using a transformer, and a rental car until yours arrives from the U.S. (about $500 for a month). If you have a good sponsor, they can point you toward the thrift stores for transformers, etc. since there are always people going home and leaving those things behind. Another issue that has become more enforced since we moved there is the "five year rule". It used to be that GS employees could go there and basically homestead, but the majority now need to return home after five years. That can be an issue if there are no GS jobs where you want to live (which is how my husband ended up in Iraq. He's home in just 11 more days though
.For us and most of our friends there, it was a huge hassle to pack up everything and move, but one that is worth doing ten times over. It was the opportunity of a lifetime for us and I wouldn't hesitate to recommend it to absolutely anyone. If you do decide to go, feel free to contact me at [email protected] and I can help you with some of the finer points of transferring over there. Take care and go for it!!!
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#8
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Joined: Dec 2004
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Thank you all for the personal insights and info sources. I will pulse the CPO's for specific info, but I also want to hear what fodor's posters have to say.
hopstoch, I'm a little confused by you saying "By working for the US government you will not be living on the local economy, nor would you want to."
I'd like to have the same kind of experience that sardog10 had near Ramstein - working on an american facility and living off-post, but fairly close by.
hopstoch, I'm a little confused by you saying "By working for the US government you will not be living on the local economy, nor would you want to."
I'd like to have the same kind of experience that sardog10 had near Ramstein - working on an american facility and living off-post, but fairly close by.
#9
Joined: Jan 2003
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Bamberg is an absolute gem of a small city. Good rail connections, lovely area, all the conveniences. My father was stationed there from 1958-61, and I have returned since both alone and with Mrs. Fly to visit friends our family made there. It is bigger now, of course, but still a comfortable size and friendly. Has interesting sights, a lovely and well-preserved Altstadt, but is not overrun with tourists.
I'd live in Bamberg again in a heartbeat.
I'd live in Bamberg again in a heartbeat.
#10
Joined: Jan 2004
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NorthShore, Re: Living on the local economy.
I think that Sardog10 hit the main points, everyday neccessities cost much more in Germany than in the US and in commissaries. Besides, in the commissaries you will see familiar brands with labels in English. Plus books. It just makes life easier and less expensive. Save your money for traveling.
I suggest that you google for "expatriate germany" and for "american women's club" germany if you have a wife. There is a ton of info avavilable.
#11
Joined: Mar 2004
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I'm partial to Heidelburg, but don't think you can go too far wrong with any of those locations. You might also take a look at Wurzburg.
http://www.germany-tourism.de/
http://www.germany-tourism.de/
#12
Joined: Nov 2003
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Just on PBS a bit about how exceptional Bamberg is - so astounding that UNESCO made it a World Heritage Site way back in 1993 - only a handful of European cities so annointed. Its beauty of its panoply of fine old buildings is enhanced by the Danube River which bifuractes here with two branches running delightfully thru town. If beauty is your critera it's top, but that's wouldn't be my only crierium.
#13
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Joined: Dec 2004
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Thanks so much for the replies.
I took a look at Wurzburg and that seems about the right size town and its chock full of nice stuff to do and see. It also seemed very centrally located with good rail connections.
Bamberg also looked nice, but perhaps is a little too small and too far east.
I also couldn't get a clear idea of what american facilities were in the local area.
I don't want to sound too picky, but some of you did ask what I had in mind.
I took a look at Wurzburg and that seems about the right size town and its chock full of nice stuff to do and see. It also seemed very centrally located with good rail connections.
Bamberg also looked nice, but perhaps is a little too small and too far east.
I also couldn't get a clear idea of what american facilities were in the local area.
I don't want to sound too picky, but some of you did ask what I had in mind.
#14
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 519
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NorthShore -
Sardog hit on a lot of good points and she definitely knows her stuff. I can give you some great websites to show what's where as far as US facilities go. I'm back and forth over there several times a year and have a ton of friends that are either military, GS or contractors. Email me at [email protected] - just put something relevent in the subject line so it doesn't go to "junkmail".
Sardog hit on a lot of good points and she definitely knows her stuff. I can give you some great websites to show what's where as far as US facilities go. I'm back and forth over there several times a year and have a ton of friends that are either military, GS or contractors. Email me at [email protected] - just put something relevent in the subject line so it doesn't go to "junkmail".
#15
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 6,098
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FYI on Bamberg. Warner Barracks has what you'd expect: PX, commissary, elementary/high schools, laundry, theater, etc.
http://www.bamberg.army.mil/
http://www.globalsecurity.org/milita...ty/bamberg.htm
http://www.bamberg.army.mil/
http://www.globalsecurity.org/milita...ty/bamberg.htm
#17
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 132
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Hi. I just wanted to reinterate what Sardog10 said. We are civilians here in the Ramstein AB area. We have lived here for almost a year and we absolutely love it. We live in a nice little village in a neighborhood that is about half American and half German. The American military community overseas has a very close, "small town" feel to it that we really enjoy.
We were also here in Germany back in 1997-98 and lived in Heidelberg. We loved it there, as well. It was not too big, but not too small, had a good public transportation system (including a train station), a nice shopping area, and has lots of history. I always loved looking up and seeing the castle looking over the city. I would love to live there again.
I agree that living here truly is the best of both worlds. So many sights of Europe are literally just a drive or a cheap flight away, and simply living in the German community is a great experience. But we also have access to the American schools, recreation, and shopping (which is good with the euro rate these days!).
I wouldn't hesitate to recommend making this move.
Good luck!
We were also here in Germany back in 1997-98 and lived in Heidelberg. We loved it there, as well. It was not too big, but not too small, had a good public transportation system (including a train station), a nice shopping area, and has lots of history. I always loved looking up and seeing the castle looking over the city. I would love to live there again.
I agree that living here truly is the best of both worlds. So many sights of Europe are literally just a drive or a cheap flight away, and simply living in the German community is a great experience. But we also have access to the American schools, recreation, and shopping (which is good with the euro rate these days!).
I wouldn't hesitate to recommend making this move.
Good luck!
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